Say "Mongolia" and the first thing that comes to mind is world domination in the 13th century by the baddest badass of all, Genghis Khan. But if you dare, venture beyond the frenetic streets of an ambitious, restless, modern-day Ulaanbaatar that's busy shaking off the last vestiges of communism, and it's easy to see how an angry orphan managed to bring the world to its knees. For travellers, no matter how intrepid, an adventure in the Mongolian countryside is a humbling experience that'll haunt their dreams long after they're gone.
