GQ's Guide to Seoul

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EDIT ED BY R H E A SAR AN

THIS MONTH /// TRAVEL TO SEOUL, SOUTH KOREA /// STEAK’S RISING GLOBAL PROFILE /// BUZZ

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The GQ guide to Seoul All it took was one runaway dance hit to make South Korea cool again – former resident Biju Sukumaran takes us on a tour of the best that its capital has to offer

AUGUST 2013

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TRAVEL

For better or worse, PSY’s “Gangnam Style” has put Seoul on the world’s cultural map. But although the South Korean pop star may have harped on about the Gangnam district’s excess, there’s a whole lot more to this metropolis of over 10 million residents. Today’s Seoul draws visitors eager to shop, party and partake in the wide – and often crazy – range of foods on offer in its many varied districts. Chartbuster hits aside, it’s a city worth visiting.

EAT Eating in South Korea is a boisterous social affair, and the streets of Seoul come alive as friends meet up at favourite eateries with tables spilling out on to the sidewalks. The city is packed with restaurants that have high turnover rates, and often the best ones are found through chance encounters with local mom-and-pop spots, where families have been serving one dish for generations. So the best advice 148 —

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is to wander and get local opinions. And don’t miss out on the opportunity to test your mettle against the weird world of Korean seafood: Check out the Noryangjin Fish Market, one of the largest such markets in the country, where hawkers sell all that slithers or squirms. A purchase from here can be quickly turned into sashimi, to be eaten at a nearby restaurant, along with a soup made with the bones and head of the fish. Sannakji, the freshly chopped and still-moving tentacles of baby octopus coated in sesame oil, is a specialty here. (The suction cups still work, so be careful – people have been known to die from them.) For a more upscale – and perhaps safer – option, head to Arirang Folk Restaurant (00822-737 2371), which specializes in galbi – marinated beef or pork short ribs grilled over charcoal. Pierre Gagnaire à Seoul (pierregagnaire.co.kr; 0082-2-317 7181/2), opened by the renowned 3-Michelinstarred French chef of the same name, features extravagance in fine dining for those craving top-class continental cuisine. SEOUL, A METROPOLIS OF OVER 10 MILLION PEOPLE POOLSIDE AT THE PARK HYATT NORYANGJIN FISH MARKET OFFERS WEIRD SEAFOOD LUXURY DINING AT PIERRE GAGNAIRE

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STAY Downtown Seoul is filled with a range of luxury accommodations, like The Shilla hotel (shilla.net; 00822-2233 3131), whose discreet setting has attracted visitors such as Bill Gates and Michael Jackson. Set on the slopes of Namsan Mountain, it’s a onestop destination for bars and restaurants, a golf course and a spa. The Park Hyatt (seoul.park.hyatt.com; 00822-2016 1234) is a great option right in the heart of the action – located in the now-famed Gangnam district (the Beverly Hills of Seoul), it’s right across from the massive COEX Mall (coex.co.kr; 0082-2-6000 0114). In addition to restaurants serving Western, Korean and Japanese cuisines, the hotel’s Timber House bar offers a large selection of high-end whiskies and vintage champagnes. Guests can take a cocktailmaking or whisky-and-cigarpairing class, or just relax to the sounds of live jazz played almost every night of the week.


(clubmass.net; 0082-2-599 3165), both catering to a more upscale clientele.

SHOP Seoul is home to several districts for shopping. For highend luxury clothing, head to Myeong-dong and Apgujeong, which house brands like Prada, Louis Vuitton and Gucci. Insa-dong’s small cafés are interspersed with numerous galleries and antique stores, which are a sure bet when hunting for Korean souvenirs. For a completely different experience, head to the warren of shops that is Namdaemun (namdaemunmarket.co.kr; 0082-2-752 1973), South Korea’s largest market, where absolutely everything – from convincing fakes of brand-name purses and photography equipment to imported clothes and single malt scotch – is sold at negotiable prices. The open market is also surrounded by, and interspersed with, physical buildings where you’ll find congested stalls and even better deals.

SEE THE “GENTLEMAN” ENDORSES SOJU PARTY AT CLUB EDEN INSA-DONG IS THE PLACE FOR KOREAN CURIOS COEX MALL, ASIA’S LARGEST UNDERGROUND SHOPPING CENTRE MUST SEE: GYEONGBOKGUNG PALACE

PARTY Seoul’s party scene is a non-stop mash-up of DJs, concerts, dance clubs and pubs. Start the night out with dinner, accompanied by a few shots of soju, Korea’s ubiquitous vodka-like drink of choice. Itaewon, Seoul’s international district, houses a number of unique bars and lounges off the main strip like The Bungalow (0082-2793 2344), with its white-sand floors and exotic cocktails that are reminiscent of a beach vacation. Afterwards, head to the Hongdae district where mega clubs like Club M2 (ohoo.net/m2; 0082-2-3143 7573) feature worldclass DJs spinning electronica and draw a young, college-going crowd. The Gangnam district has its own hotspots, like Club Eden (eden-club.co.kr; 00822-6447 0042) and Club Mass

For a taste of Seoul’s past, a visit to the imposing Gyeongbokgung Palace (royalpalace.go.kr; 0082-23700 3900) is mandatory – it’s the largest of the Joseon Dynasty palaces, set within a compound surrounded by picturesque gardens and lakes. It’s also conveniently located close to The Blue House (english.president.go.kr), the residence of the Korean President. Two amusement parks, Everland (everland.com; 00822-759 1940) and Lotte World (lotteworld.com; 0082-2-411 2000) – the latter holds a Guinness World Record as the largest indoor theme park – are a kitschy alternative to other historical sites, as is the Pulmuone Kimchi Museum (kimchimuseum.co.kr; 0082-2-6002 6456). Koreans take their kimchi very seriously – a fact you’ll be clear on after viewing exhaustive exhibits on the history of kimchi, varieties of kimchi, kimchi-making, kimchi movies... AUGUST 2013

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