MY S T I C AL E S C APE
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Kathakali performer
PHOTOGRAPHY RADHIKA RAJ
Told that he is carrying three curses from a prior life, Biju Sukumaran visits his ancestral home on a quest to find his roots and secure the aid of Vedic priests
m ay-j u n t i g e r t a l e s
MY S T I C AL E S C APE
Lepakshi dolls
AFTER A GREAT DEAL OF TRANSLATION, THE ASTROLOGER INFORMED ME THAT THE FIRST CURSE WAS FROM A TEACHER AND WAS PREVENTING ME FROM USING MY THEORETICAL KNOWLEDGE FOR PRACTICAL GAIN
Painted mural
the meaning in the casting of seashells
claimed he knew. He predicted that this pain
and generally channelled the divine. For
would move upwards, eventually causing
three hours, seated on the floor of his bare
shoulder problems. The cure was a 15-hour
workspace and surreptitiously stretching
ceremony to appease the angry individuals
my cramping legs, I was told of the sources
whom I had offended, albeit in a past life.
of the problems I had experienced over the
the priestly caste and we were able to hire
was left with reason for optimism but there
two priests I required to be able to complete
was a catch: I was cursed.
the ceremony, on short notice.
After a great deal of translation, the
I
sarong-like mundu and chest cloth, has clearly made the transition from American to Indian. Even in the pre-dawn darkness, the Hindu temple where we’re standing before two ash-marked priests is aglow, lit by a sacrificial fire fed by sticks dipped in ghee (a butter typically used in Indian cooking). I wear my own traditional garb awkwardly, but the opening ceremonies have begun and there’s a long way to go. Apparently, I’ve been cursed and alleviating the effects of karma is a drawn-out process. Clad in black, the priests – both marked with whorls of colour designating their spiritual lineage – move with practiced efficiency. Nambudiris are an old Brahmanic line particular to Kerala. They are scrupulously orthodox. Their painstaking devotion to Vedic tradition (a religion pre-dating Hinduism) has given them a unique status. Thanks to them, ancient Vedic rituals that are long extinct elsewhere live on in Kerala. In a place where everyday life is infused with ritual and tradition, priests are both consummate businessmen and repositories of mystical lore. Kerala abounds with shops specialising in the implements of ritual: clarified butter, camphor and incense. And the region’s romance is captured in the green faces of its Kathakali characters whose
t i g e r t a l e s m ay-j u n
I’m on the road by mid-afternoon,
astrologer informed me that the first curse
navigating the bumpy, rubber tree-shaded
was from a teacher and was preventing
roads in my uncle’s car. We pause to
me from using my theoretical knowledge
ceremonially throw a small log and two
for practical gain. The others were from a
coconuts – which the priests ritualistically
woman, cursing me with problems of love
imbued an hour earlier with the negative
and a blockage in my prana, the vital force
energy in my life – into a local river. Still in
that affects energy flow. I have long suffered
mundu, the traditional sarong banded in gold,
from lower-back pain, a fact the astrologer
we wade into the slowly flowing currents. Later, we are caught in traffic as a religious
utterly at home in a white,
parade makes its way across the road. Elephants and parasol-bearing devotees raise dust in the sweltering heat as the sound of trumpets combines with the honking of horns by impatient auto rickshaw drivers. The bright colours of the saffron robes and flowered deities make for a stark contrast to the uniform green and brown of the jungle, an ever-present polarity in Kerala.
Shrine to local diety
This sacred chaos is an outward sign of Kerala’s religious diversity. After the landing Indian dance-drama is best known for its
of Vasco de Gama in Kozhikode in 1498, the
colourful make-up and costumes, as well as
Portuguese were surprised to find a large Christian population here, whose ancestors
precise body movements in tune to music. Kathakali performer applies his makeup
As omnipresent as Kerala’s priests are its astrologers, seers of the future typically
are believed to have arrived in Kerala in 52 AD with the Apostle Thomas. Buddhism,
employed by the curious or the concerned. For a price, your future can be foretold Idol of Lingam
in varying degrees of detail. Three days before my ritual cleansing, I had grudgingly agreed to pay a visit to an astrologer in Kadalundi, a nearby village in the Kozhikode district of Kerala. The astrologer was famous for his skill at jyotish, Vedic astrology. He claimed Bollywood stars as clients and was known for his accuracy. I was sceptical, but went anyway. After climbing the narrow stairs to his waiting hall, I saw another family nervously awaiting divine revelation. When my turn came, the astrologer wasted no time. He consulted charts based on the positions
PHOTOGRAPHY RADHIKA RAJ
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t’s 5am and my father, looking
My family, the Nair clan, has close ties to
past year and of the good fortune ahead. I
THE ART OF KATHAKALI India’s southern state of Kerala is synonymous with the dance drama of Kathakali or “story play”. The ancient art form which dates back to the 17th century relies on elaborate make-up which resembles a mask and colourful costumes, generally worn by men, to portray religious stories. Elaborate hand gestures and classical-style Indian music also accompany each performance.
of the constellations at my birth, read
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MY S T I C AL E S C APE
Practitioners of the martial art of kalaripayattu
Jainism and many forms of Hinduism have
Although swords are no longer in style and
Martial Arts in Trivandrum, teaches guests
families now eschew traditional theravadu
what students might have learned ages
Clan traditions also speak loudly in
(communal clan strongholds) in favour
ago. Overgrown forest greenery surrounds
Kerala. While the Nambudiris are famed
of apartments, some traditions remain.
the buildings while the spicy aroma of
for their devotions, my family’s clan – the
Well-kept theravadu, with a central inner
wild peppercorn plants permeates the air.
Nairs – formed the military backbone of
courtyard, a sacred grove for serpents
Behind the ashram’s temple – dedicated to
local dynasties. The Nairs were known for
and a pond for bathing, give visitors a taste
the god Hanuman – and the cottage-style
their martial prowess, best exemplified in
of classical Keralan architecture. Family
dormitories is a large courtyard. This is
the martial art, kalarippayattu, in which
names are passed on matrilineally and
the training ground where students learn
acrobatic skills and unique weapons are
eldest daughters often inherit land. Strong
the series of fighting stances that are the
used. The Nairs were also known for their
matriarchs are the norm in Kerala, flouting
building blocks of kalarippayattu.
one-of-a-kind traditions, such as the
the status quo in this male-dominated
worship of snakes, and their matrilineal
country.
also flourished in Kerala at various times.
The founder of the school, Guru Balachandran, is one of the few surviving masters of kalarippayattu and is also of Nair
family structure. Feudal lords in medieval
Training centres of kalarippayattu,
Kerala, their power waned with the coming
offering stays ranging from a few months
descent. The school is a way of preserving
of the priests, and later the British, who
to years, can be found in many major cities.
the ancient art form by passing it on to new
outlawed many of the old practices.
One such facility, the Indian School of
generations. Beginners and experts are schooled in both armed and unarmed forms
KERALA IS KNOWN FOR THE PRACTICE OF AYURVEDA, TRADITIONAL INDIAN MEDICINE THAT CALLS FOR THE USE OF MASSAGE AND OILS TO TREAT PATIENTS HOLISTICALLY
of the martial art. The rigorous training programme demands that students master balance, movement and coordination before tackling weapon-specific techniques. Among its many delights, Kerala is also known for the practice of Ayurveda, traditional Indian medicine that deploys a number of disciplines including yoga, meditation, exercise and massage. While tourism in the state is modest, many retreats have sprung up where reputable
PHOTOGRAPHY RADHIKA RAJ
practitioners ply their trade in lavish, spalike facilities attached to high-end hotels. One wing of the Indian School of Martial Arts, dense with the scent of aromatic oils and crushed spices, is devoted to the healing arts. The centre offers three- to 21day healing sessions to help visitors detox, An Ayurvedic centre
meditate and restore vital energy. The nearby Rasa Ayurveda is a women’s
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WHERE TO STAY Paradise Gardens Beach Resort & Ayurveda With each of its private bungalows overlooking turquoise waters and lush gardens, this resort truly lives up to its name. Well-ventilated rooms are naturally air-conditioned and private terraces offer secluded beach views. The on-site Ayurvedic centre has a wide range of treatments and the resort hosts exclusive music, dance, and martial arts performances. Rates range from S$126 to S$250 per night. Karikathikuzhi Beach, Trivandrum, South of Kovalam, tel: +91 (0)471 226 8304, www.paradise-gardens.de
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View of Kadavu resorts
WHAT TO EAT Kalavara Family Restaurant With a wonderful rooftop dining area and an easy-to-find location on Press Road, Kalavara Family Restaurant is a great place to sample a local fish curry or biryani, a spiced rice dish. Be sure to ask for a non-spicy version of your order, as southern Indian cuisine is known for its burn. Kalavara Family Restaurant Press Road, Pulimoodu Thiruvananthapuram 695001 +91-471-2333102
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Indian women together through traditional Ayurvedic medicine. A stay at Rasa Ayurveda offers the chance to experience Ayurvedic cuisine, personalised herbal treatments and relax in the sprawling gardens or library. Temples abound in Kerala and their architecture is distinct from that of temples in Northern India. The Sree
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Padmanabhaswamy Temple in Trivandrum, Street scene
dedicated to Vishnu, is among the bestknown in the state. Considered to be one of the 108 holiest temples of Vishnu, it houses a statue of the god reclining on a
packed stores are easy on the pocketbook. As my long day of rituals draws to a
hooded snake. Smaller temples scattered
close, my passion for Kerala is renewed. To
throughout the state bustle with activity.
enter is to drop all preconceived notions,
Visitors should remember that these are
to occupy a place where dualities fall to the
holy places, and though all are open to the
wayside. Kerala is not just stunning views
public, only Hindus are allowed inside the
and colourful images, but is a place where
temples. Jostling is common as impatient
mythology and history live on.
pilgrims attempt to check off every last auspicious destination on their lists. Indeed, it’s worth bearing in mind that
Are the curses gone? Did they ever exist? My love life, pragmatic abilities and back pain seem, for now, in good hands.
religion infuses every aspect of daily life
And Kerala, with its mysticism, seers and
here. Trivandrum’s Chalai Bazaar is no
priests, will always be there in case other
exception. A riot of red, green, saffron
curses crop up. The point for me was the
and black spices in gigantic pots, vibrant
journey, to learn more about this narrow
displays of floral offerings and burlap
state by the sea, with its coconut trees, its
sacks stuffed with hot peppers and
gods and its unique traditions.
fresh vegetables make for a memorable
Back at the temple, the priests have
experience. The strident shouts of traders
once again lit the fire pit and smoke from
in the market fight for attention with the
the incense hangs heavily in the still air. My
pungent smell of spices, a reminder of what
father is still dressed in a mundu, and mine,
first attracted Europeans to India.
always caught halfway between slipping off
A large red gate marks the entrance to Connemara, another of Trivandrum’s
and pinching too tight is, at the end of the day, more a part of me.
bustling markets. Vendors tout everything from household goods to fabrics, livestock and locally grown bananas. Best of all, the goods found in the narrow aisles of tightly
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Tiger Airways flies to Trivandrum from Singapore. Book your flights at www.tigerairways.com
WHAT TO DO Indian School of Martial Arts This martial arts training centre offers classes in both kalarippayattu and Ayurvedic healing. Students enjoy the opportunity to stay in private cottages while learning the healing arts, practising martial arts and experiencing traditional Vedic ceremonies. The centre has played host to many international students and has English-speaking staff members. Contact the school for prices and availability. Parusuvaikal, Thiruvananthapuram, tel: +91 (0)471 223 2686, www.kalari.in
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Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple Considered one of the holiest sites for Hindus in Kerala, the Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple is dedicated to Vishnu. Known for its seven-storey stone tower, a prime example of Kerala-style architecture, the temple is always bustling. Only Hindus are allowed inside the temple proper, but visitors can tour the grounds. Mathilakom Office, East Fort, Thiruvananthapuram, tel: +91 (0)471 245 0233, www. sreepadmanabhaswamytemple.com
PHOTOGRAPHY RADHIKA RAJ
retreat seeking to bring western and