LIVING
A diver with a school of black-striped salema TRAVEL
Sleep in a tree house or sip the most exotic coffee in the world—the Galápagos Islands are more than the sum of their exotic flora and fauna. BIJU SUKUMARAN experiences this tropical paradise on land, water and deep under
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Most visitors come to the Galápagos Islands, off the coast of Ecuador in South America, to experience an untouched part of the world where inquisitive seals and giant tortoises approach without fear. With its pristine landscapes and historical connection to Charles Darwin’s Voyage Of The Beagle, the archipelago is not only of great interest to scientists and researchers from across the world but ling, diving and a
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in. Though there are rare moments— —nature’s not the only draw. chanted islands’.
THERE’S MUCH TO DO ON SOLID GROUND Despite being cemented as a sailing destination by Darwin’s voyages through the archipelago, there are now several land-based tours available as tourism develops. The Charles Darwin Research A Charles Darwin bust in Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz island
A giant tortoise at rearing facility in the tortoise Puerto Ayora
Station (Darwinfoundation.org) operates research facilities through the isout their tortoise rearing facility in Puerto Ayora, where visitors can view numerous species of giant tortoises. Nearby, the Galápagos Magic campground offers the opportunity to sleep in tree houses spread across 25 hectares where giant tortoises roam during the migration season. The camp also offers other land-
CORBIS; AFP; FOTOCORP
A WHOLE NEW WORLD
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Three enthusiasts tell Vogue why Galápagos holds such a draw __________________ HOMI ADAJANIA, FILMMAKER AND CMAS SCUBA DIVING INSTRUCTOR “There’s a prehistoric quality to the terrain there. It’s like a forgotten world, so isolated that time seems to have stood still. The craggy barrenness of the islands and the creatures you see are incredible. It’s an unforgettable experience for any experienced scuba diver—I have dived all over the world for the past 17 years and this was the best experience I’ve had… we dived with hundreds of hammerhead and silky sharks, marine iguanas, penguins and seals.” Travel tip: “Carry a 6mm wetsuit and hood because the water is freezing.” ________________ SUMER VERMA, PHOTOGRAPHER “No trip to the Galápagos would be complete without scuba diving. That too in the northernmost islands of Wolfe and Darwin, where one can dive with countless hammerhead, silky and Galápagos sharks. The only way to get to Wolfe or Darwin is on a dive safari boat and only a few of them venture that far out. It is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity, never to be forgotten.” Travel tip: “The currents are very strong there, so this sort of dive trip is only recommended for certified divers with a fair amount of experience (I would say, at least 50 dives).” ___________________ TARUN TAHILIANI, FASHION DESIGNER “The only way to explore Galápagos is by boat. The quality of the trip is enhanced if you are a diver since you see the changing marine life up close. But the island offers a spectacular view for non-divers as well.” Travel tip: “Try not to get shipwrecked like we did on the fifth night of our tour. Our boat sank and we had to be rescued. However, if I were to do it again and revisit Galápagos, I would not think twice about getting on a boat. After our wreckage, we recovered at Santa Cruz, one of the few places where we could walk around.”
FACT CHECK
POPULATION: 25,000 TOURISTS: 60,000 (PER YEAR)
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