BIKE Magazine - August 2020

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CONTENTS BIKE-MAG.COM

INSIDE AUGUST 2020

08

24

Isle of Wight Once again, I am holidaying somewhere familiar. I wouldn’t like to think of myself as a completely predictable pack driven individual but from past experiences, it’s apparent I like certain things and places (and sweets!!), and the Isle of Wight is obviously one!

The benefits of riding in the heat

18 #health This column introduces health tips, knowledge and gives you advice on how to improve your health and how to live a healthier life.

30 Venice Venice, a kingdom synonymous with water and in keeping with tradition, it was to be the starting point and ultimately the end of my exploration around the Po Valley. I had been invited by HF Holidays to experience one of their fully inclusive barge/bike trips.

Cycling through Central China

36 44

London to Teheran: Stage 7 It is miserable and pouring with rain when I arrive in Mitrovica, Kosovo.

My first impressions, noted in my diary, are alliteratively unequivocal – ‘grey, grotty, grisly, gloomy’ – with thick furrowed eyebrows etched over the two ‘o’s to iron out any ambiguity. I am clearly in a bad mood.

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WELCOME BIKE-MAG.COM

WELCOME

to the August issue

Cycling is probably the most fun toy you can have on two wheels. It saves you money, runs on fat and makes your health healthier. It’s a perfect way to get fit, and give a comprehensive workout to your heart and lungs. You don’t have to ride far or fast to feel the benefits of safety.

With the easing of the lockdown, our horizons are expanding. Bike rides must no longer be a solo affair: we can ride with friends for fun. Social cycling is coming back. Longer weekend rides are on the agenda again. And many of us are going to start looking ahead to that, mulling over cycling holidays to come.

As I write, there are possible ‘air bridges’ between countries in Europe.

It remains to be seen how airlines

manage social distances within the crippled confines of the 737. Also up in the air, as it were, is whether the public’s attitude towards flying will change.

There is a perception of risk for one thing. Who didn’t catch a cold on the flight home at one time? Then there’s the question of whether we want to fly as much as we want.

If we choose not to fly our bikes, how practical are the alternatives?

editor@bike-mag.com facebook.com/thebikemag instagram.com/bikemaguk twitter.com/TheBikeMag

Some people feel that 2020 hits the reset button-that things might be different now. For local travel, we can all hope that there is a greater role for cycling. > Nick Branxton - Editor

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Destination

Isle of Wight

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Once again, I am holidaying somewhere familiar. I wouldn’t like to think of myself as a completely predictable pack driven individual but from past experiences, it’s apparent I like certain things and places (and sweets!!), and the Isle of Wight is obviously one! My last visit, only twelve months earlier, involved an enjoyably arduous day trek circumnavigating the Island as part of my ‘Round Britain Ride’. On that occasion the weather was expectedly unpredictable and my immersion brief, but this time round I was here for a considerably longer period with the hope of experiencing as much of what this holiday Island has on offer to cyclists, as well as families. Joining me, were (as usual at this time of the year), an array of little people (that includes Sarah) and our ageing but always dependable trailer tent.

The Isle of Wight has a certain mysterious appeal, the ferry ride makes you feel you have travelled further than you actually have, everywhere seemingly distant on the map but in reality the Island is comfortably small and manageable, especially on two wheels. Our base was the small hamlet of Adgestone, inland from the sea at Sandown on the east side of the Island. The campsite was set in a peaceful enclave of greenery and mooing.

The location, deep in the designated ‘Quiet Area’ only added to the blissful tranquillity.

I woke typically early, through a gap

in the canvas I could just make out the sun peeping energetically from its slumber, the tantalising prospect of some quality cycling was all that was required for me to exit the tent partially clothed. The plan was to jump on the nearby cycleway which connects Sandown with Newport some 8 miles northwest. The route follows an old railway line, the island is dissected by a plethora of these wonderful cycle paths and trails which are well maintained and mostly deserted. This section is all off road apart from the occasion when the rider has to negotiate the quiet country lanes that cross the old railway line. A soon as I had entered the trail via Longwood Lane I was immediately transported to a glorious bucolic environment provided by a blossoming Nature Reserve.

Alvestone Mead consists of 25 hectares of mixed habitats including wet meadows, woodland and wild flower meadows. It is home to a remarkable array of flora and fauna, especially dragonflies and red squirrels. This morning the whole area was exhibiting a melancholy persona due to the low lying mist.

It brought to mind the graphic description of the marshes from the novel ‘Great Expectations’. The temperature was still comfortable and as I continued, the ghostly mist lifted to present a stirring landscape dominated by luscious greenery which appeared to slowly close in on all sides, naively protecting me from the unknown. This section of the

Scot Whitlock Twitter: cadencemag Website: cadencemag.co.uk Author, ‘Simple Words from the Saddle, Simply More Words from the Saddle & The Way of St James’ Twitter: @saddlescot

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route takes you through (actually it sidesteps) the lovely quaint villages of Alvestone, Horringford, and Arreton (where it crosses a busy ‘A’ road) before encountering Merstone, and finally ending in the county town of Newport.

Only remnants of the original Merstone Station still remain today, it was unfortunately closed for good in 1956. Nowadays the platform is partially obstructed by an overgrowth of brambles and long grass but there are signs of its past, a strategically placed stone carving of two suitcases sits uncomfortably on the platform, emitting a forlorn image, discarded in a similar fashion to the Station.

All was silent but for the whisper of the gentle wind in the nearby trees.

From Merstone, the cycle route takes on the guise of the ‘Troll Trail’ and is home to some lovely ornate sculptures, it was the brainchild of ‘Gift to Nature’, a flagship conservation project of the Island 2000 Trust. The project is passionate about the Isle of Wight’s wildlife and has had input into a variety of conservation sites on the Island.

At various points along this stretch sit information boards explaining the route and what could be seen, dependant on time of year and/or weather conditions.

Newport was quiet but it was still early. My coffee stop was predictably the busiest place in the town, as usual it adequately satisfied my demands for an early morning caffeine fix. Re-energised I decided to leave the delights of Newport for another day and continued north, Cowes was on my radar. Thankfully I had discovered a signed route (route 23) which gracefully followed the River Medina into the western part of the town.

Cowes is without doubt the most famous sailing destination in the World and dates from Tudor times.

The town is spilt into West and East Cowes and is separated by the beautiful River Medina, both offer completely different things. The western part is acknowledged as having best shopping and a splendid harbour and the eastern section has a more timeless feel with its historic connections, courtesy of Osbourne

House. The town comes to life during Cowes Week (the regatta is approaching its 200th anniversary) when its bursting at the seams with smartly dressed sailors and party revellers a plenty. It takes place at the beginning of August each year and plays host to 40 daily races with up to 1,000 boats and 8,500 competitors involved. I halted near the harbour and wandered happily through narrow attractive streets, vibrantly decorated with colourful nautical bunting still advertising the world famous sailing event. I stopped briefly for a drink and attentively watched the animated baristas expertly create all types of expresso style coffees, before continuing my stroll through the snake like streets.

The overall experience was one of extreme maritime pleasure, not for the first time I felt like I had stumbled into the pages of a Dickens novel.

The climb out of town was hard work, I relocated the cycleway and pedalled back towards Newport.

I was surprised to now find the route slightly congested, occupied by all manner of cyclists and the odd jogger, actually I had probably hit rush hour. The riding was uncomplicated, the setting idyllic all the way to Newport.

Newport had also become slightly congested with motor vehicles and people, I had noticed early in the day several signs pointed the way to Carisbrooke Castle so I decided to take an impromptu detour. The castle is located a short distance from main part of the town, surprisingly close to a substantial residential area. Carisbrooke Castle is steeped in an intriguing history, it’s been lived in since before the Norman conquest. It’s had an amazing past, predominately used as a fortress protecting England from invasion but recently it was used as a home and is now owned by English Heritage.

The experience offers something for everyone, the lovely chapel of St Nicholas is small and stunningly beautiful and was re-built to mark the 250th anniversary of Charles I death in 1649. I also enjoyed the Great Hall and Museum, especially the reconstruction of the bedroom of Charles I and the lofty heights of the Wall Walk and the Shell Keep. It has some lovely hands on interactive displays especially in the atmospheric museum which only

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enhanced the whole experience, enabling the visitor to immerse in the colourful history of the castle.

But the most bizarre of discoveries involved the Carisbrooke Donkeys who appeared happy to demonstrate the method used by their 17th Century ancestors to obtain water from the well. I found my time in the castle fascinating with the endless smorgasbord of historical resonance and all-round fun.

I had opted to steer away from the cycleway en-route to base, preferring the more established A3056. The road was busy but not uncomfortable and it allowed me to explore the Adgestone Vineyard which is set inconspicuously amidst the rolling countryside. The secluded vineyard claims to be the oldest in Britain, its small in size, only consisting of 10 acres overlooked by the beautiful Brading Down and is believed to be the very site where the Romans spotted the potential of the areas fertile soil and planted their vines thousands of years earlier. The complex offers plenty of things to do, including cellar visits, tours of the vines and tasting sessions.

The gift shop is lovely, stocked full of Island produce, including its own labelled marmalades and preserves, chilli sauces and not forgetting the award winning wines.

The café is great place to relax and enjoy the homemade delights in warm welcoming surroundings. My exploration was brief and after only a few revolutions I was stood in the campsite shop awaiting some freshly baked croissants whilst discussing the usual topic of weather and football.

The weather was again glorious as I emerged from my canvas cave.

The sea air blasted away any early morning cobwebs. Today’s plan was to head in the direction of Newport and then through Wootton Bridge enroute to Ryde. I followed the enticing cycleway once more, it was even more stunning this morning, enhanced by the newly awoken rays of the sun. I was shocked on checking my watch as I entered the outskirts of Newport, it was much earlier than I expected. The town was fairly quiet, the odd bus or jogger my only company. As I stopped by an ornate statue in the heart of the commercial area, I could actually

hear the roar from the expertly carved lions. I contentedly wandered, making a mental note of the standard and type of shops on offer. The town has a dramatic setting placed at the head of the navigable section of the River Medina which eventually flows into the Solent. After an brief investigative foray, I jumped back on the bike and continued on following the signs to Ryde.

Next stop was Wootton Bridge which attracts plenty of visitors because of its connection to the Island’s Steam Railway. It was on my route so I decided to pay a visit. I followed yet another section of cycleway which conveniently transported me to directly opposite the Station entrance. The carpark was deserted and likewise the platform, it was still too early for the dedicated volunteers. I wandered around the vibrantly decorated facades of the station buildings sat proudly awaiting the first train of the day. It reminded me so much of the layout of my father’s train-set in his spare bedroom but obviously giant sized!

Wootton Bridge is located at the western end of the line which is normally bubbling with a cacophony of noise. The Isle of Wight Steam Railway is recognised as an award winning attraction and definitely one of the gems of the Island. It possess a lovely effervescent charm and offers endless thrills. The 5 mile route runs through the stunning unspoilt countryside between three stations, Wootton Bridge which is a fairly quiet spot, Haven Street which is the heart of the railway and Smallbrook Junction which is at the interchange with the Island line run by Southwest trains. It allows the visitor to settle back and relish the evocative surroundings of the Victorian and Georgian carriages and experience a wonderful bygone era of steam and simple decadence.

A short distance from Wootton, I stumbled on a brown sign for Quarr Abbey, I was intrigued. What I discovered concealed behind some luxuriant towering greenery was a lovely Benedictine Monastery, I was surprised by its close proximity to the tourist trappings of Ryde. It’s home to a community of monks who have chosen to dedicate their life to prayer, contemplation and community life.

I pedalled down the driveway and

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became distracted by a sign pointing to the ruins (which are supposed to be of the original building). Inquisitively I chose to investigate, what I discovered was far from ruinous. The property was either in stages of construction or destruction but it definitely appeared lived in. The abbey was founded in 1132 but the annoying Henry VIII dissolved it more than 400 years later. The buildings bizarre architecture resonates a definite Moorish feel, more Marrakesh medina than Ryde trunk road.

A matter of ten minutes later I was stood by the windswept pier in Ryde.

The structure produced a sombre figure full of chugging cars making their way to the ferry and ultimately the mainland.

I liked the town which provoked a temporary mild confusion, as my previous experience left me feeling deflated, with bland drab memories, so in contrast todays experience was a wonderful surprise. The streets were clean, the locals friendly and the shop windows enticing with vibrant displays offering all types of goods and products. It seeped a glorious underbelly of splendour. The town grew in prominence in the Georgian period, originally it was two small communities of Lower Ryde and Upper Ryde. In the late 18th century the town developed and once Queen Victoria adopted the nearby Osbourne House as one of her summer residences then its fate was

secured. It’s definitely benefited from its commercial prosperity, independent shops were happily brimming with customers. The whole town was bursting with a self-confident air. One thing it made me realise was I need to banish any pre-conceptions because they can have a detrimental effect on your holiday plans. I must learn!

I pedalled happily east along the promenade, stopping briefly by Appleby Tower. The building is a feast of circular and castellated construction enhanced architecturally by a dramatic turret and oriel, superbly indulgent but unfortunately it looked quite lonely stood proudly overlooking the sea and its modern counterpart, the Spinnaker Tower in Portsmouth. It was originally built in 1875 as part of a substantial country house which unfortunately no longer exists. Its setting so close to the beach and the loving verdant embrace of Appleby Park provides a gentler more timeless appeal to that of the main town. The switch of emphasis from the hectic to the placid was a pleasurable diversion.

I continued along the coast towards Seaview. The surrounds became more remote, the route was not as well established, with sharp blind corners and uneven surfaces. The views were gallery quality as I approached the comforting confines of Seaview. The

Edwardian village is regarded as one of the most affluent places to live on the island and the main Pier Road has rightly been given the nickname ‘Millionaires Avenue’. I had read that this sweep of coastline is a great location to go crabbing or shrimping, mainly due to its many rock pools, however this morning the town was distracted by more important matters.

The seafront was bustling with locals draped in nautical paraphernalia, preparing for the annual regatta. Stalls in different stages of construction, cardboard boxes and colourful bunting strewn across the roadway and pavement with a hint of freshly brewed coffee, a wonderfully controlled chaos. I weaved my way through the crowds and began a gradual climb away from the water.

I was heading towards Brading and its Roman Villa. Inconspicuous by its appearance and location, the Roman Villa is a great tourist attraction on the outskirts of the town. The site was discovered in 1879 by a local farmer and the original building dates way back to the 1st Century. It is recognised as one of the finest Roman sites in the UK. Its modern exterior doesn’t prepare the visitor for the archaeological delights within; the highlight is the delicate and intricate preserved mosaic floors.

The simple naive images bubble with a vibrancy, the experience is amazing,

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providing a brief tantalising glimpse into what life was like in the area at the time with plenty of exhibits focusing on the Romans lifestyle and beliefs. On reflection it reminded me of other ruins I had visited in Barcelona and Bath and I was enthused by the efforts they made to cater for children, thankfully dressing up was optional for the adults.

Today was going to be glorious, I had a feeling. Firstly I was greeted by the absolutely stunning elevated view of Sandown Pier as the sun awoke. I zigzagged myself down the winding cliff top road onto the promenade, where I found the seafront bustling with a riot of OAP’s enjoying the early morning sea air, now slightly tinged with the aroma of Fishermen Friends. I pedalled south towards Shanklin. The distance between the two is minimal but there is definitely something distinctively different about the resorts. Sandown appears more naïve, more basic, in a positive way, whereas Shanklin exudes a simple modernity, it’s hard to explain but the comparison is obvious.

I stopped on the seafront for some refreshment and with my coffee urge satisfied, I unfurled my map and set off towards Godshill and its quaint picture postcard surroundings. I passed the lift which is on hand to transport any lethargic types from the seafront (to be honest there is a substantial climb back up to the main commercial area so for most it offers a convenient alternative to sore feet and raised heartbeats) and arrived in Shanklin’s main shopping area which is slightly dated but in a wonderful way. I especially liked the slapdash approach to the usual offerings from the endless souvenir shops, brimming with infectious optimism and seaside tat. They blend well with occasional antique shop or vintage store overflowing with vibrantly

painted pastel colours depicting some lovely local landscapes. It’s a place that gives you a massive comforting hug whilst patting your back rather enthusiastically, and all this mixed with the soothing hint of sea air.

The route took me through some stirring countryside, at times there was not much sign of civilisation, only the sporadic tractor or 4X4, it was blissfully tranquil. I found some remote dusty gravel tracks with some breathtaking views, unfortunately my impromptu escapade resulted in some rather painful nettle sting to my exposed ankles. The bumpy track deteriorated into a mass of rocks and sand, and as the landscape unfolded into a glorious open expanse, suddenly by chance I stumbled on Godshill.

The village consists of a scattering of quaint cottages arranged expertly to create a twee picture postcard setting but unfortunately it’s been touched by the heavy hand of progress and globalisation. However, I did enjoy the aesthetic Cotswold appeal but on a summers day, I can only imagine the streets packed full of polluting coaches overflowing with snappy happy tourists. My stay was brief, with a whimsical glance towards the Model Village I focused on the south coast and Ventnor. Many fine views followed as I made my way tentatively into Ventnor. The adrenalin was flowing as I descended at speed into the heart of the pleasant town.

Unfortunately, a feeling of desolation hung over me as I had to accept that a rather substantial climb awaited me on departure.The harbour is the main focus of the town, it reminded me of a stereotypical US harbour scene, similar to the one featured in Jaws. Shaped by large boulders, the extensive prospect

creates a welcoming and attractive setting to discover the sea, oozing an inescapable romance. The seafront and promenade possess similar qualities, I especially enjoyed the novel design of the paddling pool conveniently sited by a bustling restaurant. It’s a lovely scaled down model of the whole island including geographical contours and craggy outcrops. I stopped for some refreshment, amongst people happily lingered over cappuccino’s and fries before wandering up to the main shopping area with its winding streets and intricate narrow alleyways. The town was busy so I relocated my bike and began my arduous climb north back towards Shanklin, and ultimately my canvas base. I would like to briefly mention the delights of the western side of the Island, which if you are feeling adventurous would make a nice easy day ride from Sandown. Yarmouth has a lovely Castle and quaint narrow streets and atmospheric alleyways but I definitely recommend a trip to The Needles which has grasped progress firmly by the horns and is now home to a selection of rides and jolly stalls.

The highlight is the chairlift ride down to the shoreline with its stunning views of the geographical phenomenon and untouched natural beauty of the coastline My time in the magical place was a joy, its conveniently located just a short simple boat ride from the mainland across the Solent and benefits from a lovely temperate climate, warmed by the gulf stream. I discovered it was aptly named the ‘Garden Isle’ and is home to a stunning array of unusual plant life which flourish in the good weather and relish the fertile soil. With its many cycle routes and tourist sights, the Island is definitely one to discover. Trust me, you won’t be disappointed.

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71 Nyhavn Hotel Nyhavn 71 1051 A hotel with understated elegance and a Copenhagen K Denmark superb location at Nyhavn in Copenhagen (+45) 3343 6200 71nyhavnhotel@arp-hansen.dk

When it comes to staying at a hotel, it is always the small details that make a difference. Whether you just want to experience the ultimate pampering or wish to celebrate an anniversary, the staff at Kurhotel Skodsborg are ready to upgrade your stay with us. We have a wide range of indulgent options to make your visit more luxurious.

Riding on two wheels provides you with the very best close-up experience of scenic North Zealand. Visit, for example, the Karen Blixen Museum, Dyrehaven or the Hermitage Palace. We can also provide a picnic basket so you can enjoy lunch al fresco.

Bicycle from 150 DKK per day Lunch from 400 DKK per picnic basket for 2 people

Kurhotel Skodsborg, Skodsborg Strandvej 139 DK-2942, Skodsborg www.skodsborg.dk

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#HEALTH BIKE-MAG.COM

I have created this column for you to introduce health tips, share knowledge and give you advices how to improve your health or how to live a healthier life. The main focus on nutrition for people who are interested in sports, especially cycling. This column will be in every edition and i will write about two topics. The last edition was about #honey and #watermelon. I am giving you information and advices about two Superfoods in this article. The two superfoods are #cucumber and #pineapple.

#cucumber The cucumber is similar to the watermelon. Why? They are both fruits and vegetables. Mainly cultivated its edible fruit. We can find more than 35 species with different colours from the white to yellow and green and even with various shapes and skins. Basically the cucumbers contain seeds, but we can discover types without seeds at the market.

The fruits lengths are depend mainly on the species. Everybody heard about the pickles (fermented cucumbers). The perfect side dish for heavy main course. This vegetable

is especially healthy and kind of simple to cultivate. My grandfather cultivated lot of cucumbers at his farm. My father learned so many things from him and me too. We have a little cucumber farm too. My father and I take care of our little cucumber farm. I know there are two main rules for cultivating cucumber. They need lots of sun. The second rule is: don’t watering the cucumbers except the root. The cucumbers will be bitter if we water it. I can recommend for you to try to cultivate cucumber. If you have a small garden and space, go for it. It is interesting and fun. The homemade is always better.

Fun fact: The raw cucumber contains around 93% of water.

Karoly Nagy He is very passionate about traveling and cultural impacts. His studies connect to HR and community organization. Karoly has been working on lot of projects in different fields.

Motto: Find your own way and never give up!

Email: karolynagyofficial@gmail.com

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100g cucumber contain:

Benefits

gives some support too.

- 16 calories

Vitamins and antioxidants

Weight loss

- 0 g of protein

The cucumber contains lots of vitamins and minerals, especially vitamin K, vitamin C and calcium, iron, fibre, magnesium, manganese, sodium, phosphorus, folate, lutein and potassium.

It is an excellent support in control your appetite, burn more fat and also, has lots of incredible effects for your hair. It gives a quality support for your body and your digestive system too.

Bone health

Skin care

With the vitamin K the cucumber is the perfect fighter in mission to defend the healthy bones.

The calcium faithfully helps for the vitamin K. They are the perfect duo. Plus the vitamin D

Keep the skin hydrated, moisturised and stay young and supple. Can be used for a toner. It is a natural toner that can help to refresh the skin.

- 0 g of fat - 0 mg of cholesterol - 2 mg of sodium - 3 g of carbs: 2 g of sugar - 145 mg of potassium

Did you know? If you want to burn 15 calories just cycle for 3 minutes.

#recipe

•

1 teaspoon salt

Step 2

Cucumber salad

•

2 tablespoon water

•

2 tablespoon white vinegar or apple vinegar

•

2 tablespoon lemon juice

Mix the water, salt, olive oil, vinegar and lemon juice in a big bowl with the sugar and the black pepper. Mix it well and taste it. If you need some more of the ingredients, just add more.

•

1 tablespoon sugar

Prep: 15 mins Cook: 20 mins Total: 65 mins

Add sliced purple onion and the cucumbers to the big bowl and stir it for 2 minutes and after put the whole salad in the fridge for 30 minutes.

Servings: 4

Ingredients: •

8 cucumber

•

1 purple onion

•

1 tablespoons olive oil

•

1 teaspoon black pepper

Step 3

Directions Step 1 Wash the cucumbers, peel the onion and peel the cucumbers and make circle slices from them and cut the onion to small cubes.

Step 4 After 30 minutes this healthy and delicious salad will be ready to serve.

You can eat it just like your basic salad or you can serve it with a main course.

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#pineapple The pineapple is a large tropical fruit that grows on the ground from a plant.

Over 20 varieties grown in different countries worldwide. Wild pineapples are native to South America and it has become one of the main commercial fruits. It is usually eaten raw as a dessert.

It has a sweet, refreshing flavour. We

can find different variations with reddish or yellowish flesh. Colour can vary from light green to dark green. We need to be careful with unripe pineapples because it’s poisonous not edible. Of course we can’t find unripe fruits in the markets.

Every pineapple plant produces only one pineapple in each year. This fruit is

100g pineapple contain:

Benefits

50 calories

Heart health

- 0 g of protein

It helps maintain the normal blood pressure and reduce strain on the cardiovascular system. It can lower the risk of heart diseases and might have a positive effect in fighting with cardiovascular disease.

- 0 g of fat - 0 mg of cholesterol - 1 mg of sodium - 12 g of carbs - 110 mg of potassium

available in a variety of forms fresh cut, whole, canned, frozen and juice.

Fun fact: Canned pineapples contain more calories and sugars. If you can, choose the fresh pineapple.

folate, riboflavin. This sweet dessert is a real supporter to digest and maintain the work of the digestive system.

Brain health

Vitamins, minerals and digestion

Pineapple might improve brain functions, decrease anxiety, reduce depressive symptoms. A great source of B vitamins.

These vitamins take care of the neurological system. A real happiness is this fruit.

This summer fruit is a great source of potassium, magnesium and high in vitamin C, vitamin B6, manganese, fibre, copper, iron,

Did you know? If you want to burn 50 calories just cycle for 7 minutes.

- 10 g of sugar #recipe Pineapple whip cream

Prep: 10 mins Refrigerate: 60 mins Total: 70 mins Servings: 3-4

Ingredients: •

1 pineapple

•

2 cup coconut milk

•

1 cup sweetened condensed milk

•

1 teaspoon cinnamo

Directions: Step 1 - Crave from the pineapple the yellow parts or cut it and place all ingredients in a blender. Blend it until smooth and pour it into small bowls or in cups.

Step 2 - Put in the fridge for 60 minutes or 30 minutes in the freezer.

Step 3 - After 60 minutes you can serve your homemade pineapple cream and enjoy.

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#summerdrink

Ingredients:

Homemade mojito

•

half cup white rum

•

1 lime

Prep: 15 mins

•

2 tablespoon honey or sugar

Servings: 1

•

1 lemon

•

couple of fresh mints

•

1 tablespoon honey

•

arbonated water

Directions: Step 1 Add the rum and the mints in a big pitcher and muddle with a wood spoon.

Step 2 Add the lemon and lime juices and stir it with the honey or sugar.

Step 3 Fill it with carbonated water and enjoy.

#plus Include cucumber and pineapple to your diet and you will see the good benefits.

Be healthy, be happy. Enjoy the last month of the summer.

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BEYOND THE SUNSHINE BIKE-MAG.COM

The benefits of riding in the heat

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Training camps have long been perceived as a luxury reserved only for the elite athlete. However, with the growth of the sports tourism industry and the increasing numbers of recreational endurance athletes willing to travel abroad to focus on their performance, warm weather training camps have firmly established themselves as a mainstream staple in many endurance athlete’s training plans for the year. In this current climate, athletes may well be taking their bikes with them on their summer holidays, or are hoping for warm weather at home for their staycation.

The benefits of warm weather training are no longer reserved for professionals and elite age groupers, but for athletes of all abilities and with a vast range of individual goals.

There are several measurable physical benefits for athletes training in warm weather and areas where there is increased sunlight, from the impact of Vitamin D to the additional training stress from heat.

Several athletes and coaches are using warm weather protocol and safe, successful cooling strategies to gain the edge every year, and there is no reason that these advantages should be restricted to the top cohort of athletes.

The 2020 Olympic Games (now in 2021) will be held in the warm, humid conditions of Tokyo and exercise physiologists are finding themselves in a thermo-arms race to have the upper hand in all sports. Yet, there are also many examples of how athletes can push themselves too far. The IRONMAN World Championships, Race Across America, and Marathon des Sables to are a few events where heat becomes one of the additional hurdles. There are welladvertised adverse effects of heat and performance such as Jonathan Brownlee in Mexico in 2016 and US Olympian, Sarah True at both IRONMAN Frankfurt and IRONMAN Nice 2019. In cycling, these are less apparent, but that doesn’t mean the impact isn’t as severe.

Methods of Heat training When a participant trains in warmer weather, additional training stress is added onto an athlete. Blood becomes thicker, meaning the heart has to work harder to pump oxygen in the blood around the body to the working muscles (Ron Maughan, 2004). As a result of this stress, the body adapts and increases blood plasma which remains changed in the body after the exposure to a heat stimulus. This leads to an

Philip Hatzis Founder and Head Coach of Tri Training Harder. https://tritrainingharder.com/coach/ philip-hatzis Social Media: Twitter: @Philip_Hatzis Instagram: @philiphatzis1

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improved level of cardiovascular fitness.

Furthermore, heat trained athletes will begin sweating earlier and heavier, and the heart will pump more blood to the heart to ensure the body is more efficient at cooling (Sawka MN, 2011).

Three main methods can achieve heat training and adapting to warmer climates: Environmental exposure – The most obvious of methods: the athlete moves somewhere warm! When relocating to warmer climates, it is vital for the athlete to gradually adapt their training load to allow for the additional stress of heat. Therefore, in the opening few days, aerobic level activity should be completed through the hottest part of the day and using the cooler parts of the day to do any intensive workouts.

Athletes should fully cool down post workouts and fuel (including hydration) appropriately. Using the room’s air conditioning will not impact the body’s acclimatisation; in fact, it could improve the recovery times.

Artificial training environmental exposure – Not everyone is fortunate enough to be able to jet off to warmer climates three weeks before a substantial race or event. However, a warm environment can be artificially created for the athlete to train in.

Activities like Bikram or hot yoga (Perrotta, White, Koehle, Taunton, & Warburton, 2018) have positive effects on heat acclimatisation. As does wearing more layers than is necessary (Stevens, 2018), and indoor sessions in poorly ventilated or warm environments (e.g. turbo sessions indoors with a heater on!)

Raising of core body temperature – Exposure to hot environments like a sauna or a hot tub post-exercise (Zurawlew MJ, 2016) or as part of a daily routine can dramatically improve heat adaptation.

Clearly being in a warmer environment helps to acclimatise the body to heat stresses. When adapting to warmer climates, allow 1-3 weeks to acclimatise fully.

If the warm weather training is a method of improved physiological

performance, then results should last on return to colder climates, and heat training should be a part of athletes training routine to assist in their training.

Within about three weeks, the physiological effects are reduced by 75% (KB, 1998).

However, heat exposure can return the athlete to where they were before relatively quickly, and continual exposure will prolong the effects even if they are not somewhere warm.

Dehydration and heat training Dehydration and heatstroke are not entirely linked. An excessively high core temperature does not necessarily also lead to an increased level of dehydration. In fact, a significant change in body weight may be acceptable or even normal without becoming dehydrated (Maugham R.J., 2007).

It is found that heat training on shorter intensive bouts of activity can cause an increase in core body temperature as a result of the thermal energy required by the body to do work. Longer, steady-state efforts of exercise are likely to cause more dehydration as the body utilises stores of fluid. When heat training, the increased thermal environment means that the athlete is expected to feel hotter and drinking can reduce that effect (Stephen Cheung, 1998) Heat training causes the body to sweat sooner and more. Therefore fluid loss and subsequent replacement must be achieved after any heat training session. As the athlete becomes more acclimatised, they will not need as much fluid as their body becomes better at keeping itself cool. However, following a hydration strategy will help them bounce back from heat training quicker and prepare for the next session as well as help them perform well in longer endurance events. Athletes must make sure that their fluid intake is adequate; however, losses of less than 4% of body weight is unlikely to impair performance (Goulet, 2013).

How to recover from heat training?

Heat training is a stress. Therefore, it is essential to think of it as such and adapt training and recovery accordingly.

After training in warmer environments, it is vital that the athlete adequately cools down. In extreme cases, this may include cool showers and baths to effectively cool the core body temperature (Bongers, Hopman, & Eijsvogels, 2017).

Often, especially in warm environments,

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athletes tend to enjoy the warm location and spend time lounging by the pool or sunbathing. This is not adequate recovery and continues the heat stress and will only prolong the recovery time before the adaption can take place. Much like a training load, after a stress is applied, rest and recovery allow the body time to adapt.

Heat training should be considered in the same vein and therefore should not always be “on”. Finally, if the athlete is doing multiple workouts in one day, the

subsequent sessions will start from an elevated core temperature, which will result in sub-optimal training, and this must be carefully monitored.

2010) and iced smoothies (Rodney Siegel, 2010) can also be used as a means to cool down both before or after training in the heat.

Precooling Strategies

Furthermore, cooling strategies help to reduce the perception of being hot that can in itself improve performance (Stephen Cheung, 1998).

There are several strategies for staying cool.

Pre-cooling using cooling vests and towels to cool the core temperature down, similarly, ice baths (Hutchinson,

Dangers of Heat Training Heat training doesn’t come without

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danger. Stressing the body at any level has its risks.

It is essential to listen to the body and learn from it. Athletes should start any heat training slowly and increase their training duration as their body adapts to the stress. The first few days adaption on arriving in a new location it is particularly important to take it slowly.

In extreme situations, athletes can and do die from heat-related injuries.

With a significant risk of training in the heat being death, it is worth identifying heatstroke symptoms (NHS, 2018): •

Headache

•

Dizziness

•

Loss of appetite and feeling sick

•

Excessive sweating and pale, clammy skin but not sweating, even though hot

•

Cramps in legs, arms and stomach

•

Fast breath or pulse

•

Temperature of 38ºC or more (40ºC is very serious)

•

Being very thirsty

•

Seizures

•

Unconsciousness

•

Death

Concluding Remarks There are a plethora of different reasons behind training in warm weather which add to the physiological

strength, psychological advantage and indeed, the overall well-being of an athlete.

Through these benefits, though certainly not to be considered a short cut, athletes can boost fitness in an easier, more efficient way than sticking to their regular training schedule and it is advantageous to train through hotter climates.

Nevertheless, training in the heat can cause adverse side effects which athletes and coaches should be aware of, and some methods can promote the similar warm weather gains physiologically without having to get on an aeroplane.

However, often these neglect the other positive outcomes that are found by taking some time away from ‘normality’ and immersing oneself in a warmweather training environment.

References Bongers, C. C., Hopman, M. T., & Eijsvogels, T. M. (2017). Cooling interventions for athletes: An overview of effectiveness, physiological mechanisms, and practical considerations. Temperature, 60-78.

Goulet, E. (2013). Effects of ExercisesInduced Dehydration on Endurance Performance: Evaluating the Impact of Exercise Protocols on Outcomes using a Meta-Analytic Procedure. British Journal of Sports Medicine.

Hutchinson, A. (2010). Faster, Higher Sneakier. Walrus.KB, P. (1998). Time course of heat acclimation and its decay. Int J Sports Med, 157-160.

Maugham R.J., e. A. (2007). Errors in the Estimation of Hydration Status from

changes in Body Mass. Journal of Sports Sciences.

NHS. (2018, January). Conditions: Heat Stroke and Heat Exhaustion. Retrieved from https://www.nhs.uk/conditions/heatexhaustion-heatstroke/ Perrotta, A. S., White, M. D., Koehle, M. S., Taunton, J. E., & Warburton, D. E. (2018).

Efficacy of Hot Yoga as a Heat Stress Technique for Enhancing Plasma Volume and Cardiovascular Performance in Elite Female Field Hockey Players. The Journal of Strength & Conditioning Research, 28782887.

Rodney Siegel, e. a. (2010). Ice Slurry Ingestion Increases Core Temperature Capacity and Tunning Time in Heat.

Medicine and Science In Sport and Exercise.

Ron Maughan, S. S. (2004). Exercise in the heat: challenges and opportunities. Journal of Sports Sciences, 917-927.

Sawka MN, L. L. (2011). Integrated physiological mechanisms of exercise performance, adaptation, and maladaptation to heat stress. Comprehensive Physiology, 1883-1928.

Stephen Cheung, T. M. (1998). Heat acclimatisation, Aerobic Fitness, and Hydration Effects on Tolerance during Uncompensable Heat Stress. Journal of Applied Physiology.

Stevens, C. J. (2018). Evidence for training in additional clothing as an alternative heat acclimation strategy for athletes.

Temperature.

Zurawlew MJ, W. N. (2016). post-exercise hot water immersion induces heat acclimation and improves endurance exercise performance in the heat. Med Sci Sports, 745-754.

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ITALY BIKE-MAG.COM

Destination

Venice

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Venice, a kingdom synonymous with water and in keeping with tradition, it was to be the starting point and ultimately the end of my exploration around the Po Valley. I had been invited by HF Holidays to experience one of their fully inclusive barge/bike trips.

After landing at Marco Polo airport, I had to make my way to Mantova, 120km west of Venice, so after several hot bus and train journeys I arrived in the bustling town. It was Saturday afternoon and as you would expect the centre was awash with bodies. The main part of the town was very pretty with an understated charm, and the ever-present ghosts of the Gonzagas family in the air. The city’s central location and abundance of waterways has greatly developed its importance.

The boat was moored in Porto Catena, a lovely spot with sweeping views of the lake, it wasn’t due to sail until Monday morning. After a rather fidgety sleep, and a healthy yoghurt fuelled breakfast, we were introduced to our bikes for the duration. More than adequate (probably would suit my mother), bright orange but sturdy enough. After a brief introduction from Hugo Gietelink, our Dutch guide with flowing grey hair and a distinctive El Capitano hat, originating from Amsterdam he happily allowed us to rib him constantly that Utrecht was a very beautiful city. We set off, our Italian journey was about to begin.

The group consisted of 28 with a diverse range of nationalities, British, American, French and surprisingly the majority from Australia. Most were retirement age or older, but all were keen to explore and discover the beautiful surroundings. We were being hosted by Ricardo, the captain, Erika, Silvia and Giovanni on board the glamorous boat ‘Ave Maria’.

To refer to it as a barge would be understating its imposing structure; it has 20 rooms and plenty of space to accommodate comfortably a mass of sweaty bodies, especially after a long day in the saddle.

Mantova is a simply beautiful Renaissance city with a cavalcade of history, an abundance of towers, battlements, churches, cupolas and an intricate network of atmospheric

Scot Whitlock Twitter: cadencemag Website: cadencemag.co.uk Author, ‘Simple Words from the Saddle, Simply More Words from the Saddle & The Way of St James’ Twitter: @saddlescot

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(Sanctuary to Our Lady of Grace). A visit is highly recommended, it’s recognised as one of the most important places of pilgrimage to the Virgin Mary. The interior is bizarrely macabre but so hypnotic, the darkness is dominated by stucco and shells with the elevated gallery containing a selection of life size figures representing the miracle that saved their life. Oh, not forgetting the chained, stuffed crocodile hanging from the ceiling, its role to act as some form of talisman to ward off evil spirits. See I told you bizarre!

alleyways. There is a stunning collection of palaces and the town is best known for its numerous squares, Piazza Sordello, Piazza Broletto and Piazza Erbe. Its population is 415,000 which is above the national average and it sits at the south-easterly tip of the Lombardy region. Thankfully the environment is completely flat, with only some occasional soft hills.

The whole area is dominated by water, especially the Po, with an extensive capillary network of canals, inland lakes and wide lagoons. The lakes were created in the twelfth century by the architect Alberto Pitentino to protect the city from flooding. The construction of a system of dams and locks led to a useful and dramatic inclusion to the environment.

To accompany your trip, you are given your own personal ‘Green’ bike guides.

The set is presented in its own rather fetching handlebar case and consists of a booklet with detailed maps of the itinerary: in colour and scaled 1:75,000/50,000, a roadbook with detailed description, stage by stage of the itinerary with precise directions and a travel guide with all the expected important information of the history and heritage of the places you will visit. HF Holidays make it easy even if you would prefer to take on the Self-Guided option, they are so proud of this material they constantly update and fine-tune the information. Bravo!

Day 1 – Mantova Long Round Trip Exploration of the lakes 40km and no elevation sounds simple enough.

We departed Porto Catena after a lazy breakfast, the weather was glorious.

We initially followed the contours of the Lago Inferiore through some beautiful tree cover, thankfully the entire Mantova – Venice route is marked by yellow arrows. We halted briefly as we departed onto the roadway by the monument to Martiri di Belifore (Martyrs of Belifore) which was erected to commemorate the patriots of the Italian Risorgimento who were executed between 1851 and 1855 on these very shores. The memorial was wonderfully imposing, its clean lines cutting sharply into the bright blue skyline. The pedalling was sedentary, and everybody appeared comfortable with the pace.

After approximately 10KM we stopped in bustling Curtatone, the market was in full flow, the area dominated by a rather animated lady on a microphone.

She became even more excited when she noticed our mass of bikes. The town is famous for its magnificent church, the Santuario delle Grazie

After a coffee stop we continued onwards, our next goal was the Museo Etnografico dei Mestieri del Fiume di Rivalta, which tells the story of river, its flora, fauna and the basic relationship between man and river. It afforded a wonderful collection of tools and equipment and I found it refreshing that it was all in Italian; they had not made the effort to convert the displays into English. It was only a short pedal push to our lunch stop in Laghi di Mantova where we all descended on a sleepy Trattoria. An hour later we were heading back towards the boat, the sun was still as strong, and our water consumption was considerable. The boat was a welcome sight, we had explored plenty and already friendships were being made.

Day 2 – Mantova to Zelo We docked at Governolo and one of the largest inland basins in Italy, the small town lies on the stunning Mincio River.

One of the largest systems of river locks in Italy is situated here to balance the different water levels of the Po and Mincio. We followed a dyke (there is

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a joke there!) for the majority of the day. The weather was glorious, strong sunshine with a hypnotic headwind, we made good pace, the group happily pedalling past several substantial locks through Ostiglia (famed for its medieval fortress and floating mill) We stopped in the beautiful Revere; a small town which is often overlooked it has a population of 2,500 but possesses so many hidden charms, again dominated by the legacy of the Gonzaga family. The approach to the town was stunning as we pedalled on an elevated section of grassy bank with the Po on our right and red tiled roofs on our left, vibrant in the sunlight. The town once possessed an entire substantial fortification; unfortunately, this is no longer visible apart from the imposing bell tower. As we departed, we stumbled on a rather surreal war memorial, a steel creation of barbed wire, a soldier in repose and the memory of the lives lost across generic wars. From Revere, our next stop was Bergantino, the town is famous for the creation of fairground rides, our group treated themselves to a visit to a museum dedicated to the great fun of the fair. The exhibition is setup to create the atmosphere of the simple fairground with an ornate collection of wooden horses, pipes, musical devices, billboards. We even managed to dance whilst listening to the Italian national anthem. Some of us (Hugo) displayed

a creative flair as a bizarre mix of foxtrots and rumbas dominated our surroundings, I wasn’t sure what the poor guide felt about the experience, befuddlement and amusement were definitely appropriate.

From Bergatino we continued to move sedately towards the cheese factory Caseificio Sociale Ballottara, it specialises in making Grana Padano.

The landscape was a collection of rolling pastures and placid arable farmland. We had a tour of the factory, which was most welcome as the shade was a much-needed distraction, however the smell of the stacked cheeses was so overpowering.

Our day ended in Zelo, again a small town but with plenty of character, we made an adventurous foray in the darkness to the local cemetery, the tombs evocatively lit, creating a stunning sombre light show. The tranquility and experience was mesmerising. The night ended in the local bar listening to Jim expertly strumming his guitar.

Day 3 – Zelo to Adria I decided to experience the boat for the day, it’s not a pre-requisite to pedal so on this occasion several of the group decided not to get on the

bike. The sedentary life of the boat as it negotiated the locks and waterways was a compelling draw. The slow pace was rather infectious, it promoted a lethargic approach to life, providing time to contemplate our simple existence, if life is in-fact that simple, mine especially. The scenery was glorious, a mass of greenery from the endless cavalcade of flourishing embankments.

We ended the day in Adria nestled between the Adige and Po rivers, with a population of 20,000 it was once an important trade centre along the navigable branch of the Po. Its attraction to visitors is the diverse architecture with remnants of the Greeks, Etruscans and Romans.

Day 4 – Porto Viro to Chioggia Boat, sleep, write, boat. I had to keep up with my writing, so I experienced another peaceful day on the water.

We eventually docked in Chioggia; its stunning location on the southern edge of the lagoon of Venice was breath-taking. I went off to explore, I had to negotiate a plethora of fishing boats and the rather pungent fish market, it obviously still had a working relationship with water, birds were swooping down to see if they could scavenge some lunch. As I encountered the main road into town, I noticed the

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attractive architecture; unfortunately, the rain was now incessant. The place was dominated by locals on bikes, all ages happily weaving through the narrow streets.

The town is sometimes referred to as ‘Little Venice’ and you can immediately see why, with it being constructed on an island and interlaced by canals which are crossed by ornate arched stone bridges and is mainly untouched by the effects of mass tourism. The main artery is the Corso del Popolo which is a lovely avenue with a wide pedestrian area, dotted with plenty of shops, restaurants and cafes with tables invading the pavements. I stumbled upon the Chiesa di Sant’ Andrea, the church has a beautiful marble façade and is home to a magnificent Crucifixion by Palma il Vecchio (1480-1528). I paused for several minutes, to remember my loved ones. The majority of the buildings have porticos as imposing features, and these cannot be found in any other lagoon towns or cities.

Day 5 – Chioggia to Venice This was a simply stunning stage following the thin strip of land that separates the Venice lagoon from the Adriatic Sea. The ride was a mix of inviting sandy beaches and fine views

of the lagoon. On the 4th November 1966, a high tide measuring 194cm submerged Venice, Chioggia and many other surrounding areas. So, it was decided to create a special law to plan interventions to prevent a re-occurrence and the MOSE project was created and eventually there will be a collection of 78 mobile dams to protect the harbours and lido. Work began in 2003 and is planned for completion in 2016. The transportation system is extremely efficient; the water-taxis are reliable and relatively cheap.

Venice happily combines an aura of calm juxtaposed between the chaos of thousands of tourists and the demands of religion. It’s easy to be mesmerised by the world-famous architecture, I explored the narrow side street and alleys, the ever-changing pace of life was an unexpected revelation. I stopped on several occasions and was taken aback by the total solitude before turning a corner to be confronted by a throng of people, conversing noisily.

All these streets and alleys appear to terminate at St Mark’s Square, which is an ideal location for strolling, pausing and contemplating. A wonderful pavement café ambience dominates; however, the prices might not be to your liking. I ambled contentedly.

In conclusion, this was a wonderful adventure with great people, great

accommodation, great gastronomy and great laughs. The itinerary was easily manageable by all abilities and Hugo (guide) was a minefield of information and his animated and enthusiastic explanations were a delight. The climate in the Po Delta is ideal for exploration by bike, being very hot and humid in the summer, with no distinct rainy months but it does tend to rain more in the autumn and spring months. I travelled in the middle of May and the first part of the week was extremely hot with the second part rather rainy, like you need more water in Venice! With a cavalcade of history and culture dominated by the ruling dynasties of the Este and Gonzaga families and the crowning glory, the lagoon and the sea, this was a completely unforgettable experience and one I will always remember fondly, especially Hugo getting lost and trying to cover his tracks by introducing us to the cows, explaining they produce MILK, hilarious!

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TOURING

The Bicycle Diaries

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One woman’s solo cycle from London to Tehran: Stage 7

It is miserable and pouring with rain when I arrive in Mitrovica, Kosovo. My first impressions, noted in my diary, are alliteratively unequivocal – ‘grey, grotty, grisly, gloomy’ – with thick furrowed eyebrows etched over the two ‘o’s to iron out any ambiguity. I am clearly in a bad mood.

Keen to hunker down somewhere warm and dry, I enter the first motel I can find. This transpires to be a half-finished, oddly cavernous place with faint hints of The Shining, run by a gnome-like man with no neck.

My room is large, but the bathroom is filthy and I force the man, in the absence of any staff, to clean it himself. If nobody complains then nothing will ever improve, I find myself thinking. Three months on the road and I’ve already turned into my mother.

The motel is located in the south of the city, linked to the north via a bridge over the Ibar river. The bridge is closed to traffic, blocked by broken slabs of concrete and a meagre patch of grass known euphemistically as the ‘Peace Park’. At first the significance of this is lost on me. I am aware the city is divided: ethnic Albanians in the south, Serbs in the north. But the nature and intensity of this partition only becomes apparent during a chat with a friendly Albanian waiter over dinner.

‘I’ve lived here for 15 years and only gone across the bridge twice, when my father got sick, as they have better

doctors over there,’ he tells me. This is especially surprising because the restaurant is located right beside the bridge on the southern side and his brother works in the north for a Serb construction company. He insists he doesn’t have a personal problem with the Serb population, however.

‘It’s mainly Pristina and Belgrade that have the problem, not the people.’

After dinner I walk outside into a city gone wild. Albania has won 3-0 against Armenia in a UEFA Euro qualifiers match and everyone is celebrating. Car horns screech, fireworks blaze, crowds swarm and chant in the street. It’s primal, tribal, intoxicating in its intensity. What a powerful urge it is to be a cog in a big, baying machine, I think as I squeeze my way through the throng; that deep, primordial instinct to belong and exclude. It all seems harmless at this level. But when does this change?

When does the game become reality and beeping horns morph into bombs and blocked bridges?

The next day I move to a cheaper, cleaner motel across the road run by a wiry man with a terrifying Adam’s apple and spend the afternoon chatting to people working for the European Union Rule of Law Mission (EULEX). The mission arrived in February 2008, operating under the UN to provide policing and legal support to the fledgling country.

Not everyone is pleased to have them here – including members of government – seeing them as

Rebecca Lowe Rebecca Lowe, a human rights journalist, started a 10,000km, 20-country ‘bummel’ through Europe and the Middle East in July.

Her aims are threefold: cultivate a pair of toned, shapely calves that will be the envy of all she meets; survive; and shed light on a region long misunderstood in the West.

Find out more about Rebecca’s Journey Twitter: reo_lowe (https://twitter.com/reo_lowe) Facebook group: The Bicycle Diaries (https://www.facebook.com/ bexbicyclediaries/)

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unwelcome and ineffective mediators between the state and Serbia. But without them Kosovo would arguably be in far worse shape.

‘The Kosovo government has really captured the state,’ a senior EULEX officer tells me over coffee. ‘It controls the media, money, privatisation, judicial system, everything.

Rolling this back is very difficult.’

Meanwhile, everyone is leaving. Kosovans were the third largest national group seeking asylum in Germany after Syrians and Albanians in 2015, with nearly 40,000 requests. ‘At least there was vision under Yugoslavia,’ my contact says. ‘Now there is no vision – and for a lot of people, no hope. They are asking what tangible benefits independence has brought.’

Kosovo, which is 90% Albanian, unilaterally declared independence from Serbia in February 1998, prompting a brutal crackdown by Belgrade that ended with the intervention of Nato in 1999. Nearly two decades later, relations remain tense. Kosovo has now been recognised by 108 UN member states (56%), but Serbia still refuses to do so. Since April 2013, however, Belgrade has grudgingly accepted Pristina as a ‘legitimate governing authority’, maintaining control only over education and health.

Why is Serbia so keen to cling on, I ask? Isn’t it time to cut the cord? ‘There are lots of myths about Kosovo being a key part of its historic national identity,’ the officer tells me. ‘It also has substantial mineral wealth.

And there’s the principle, of course, that unilateral declarations of independence are not acceptable.’ Most importantly, he adds, it’s a crucial negotiating tool.

‘They want to keep some

leverage with the West.

Especially when it comes to EU membership.’

It must be sad being Serbia, I reflect. Once a dominant drill sergeant with an iron fist and flock of pliant minions.

Now, one by one they have all fled the coop, leaving it poor, humiliated and alone. It’s the tyrannical father whose kids finally work up the balls to abandon, bounding out to freedom while he screams obscenities and chases them with his battered Kalashnikov, before sinking into a bitter ball of inebriated senility and muttering phrases like ‘after all I did for them!’ and ‘they’ll never last five minutes without me!’ from the folds of his baggy corduroy cardigan.

Later that night I walk to the north to meet my friend, another EULEX employee.

Crossing the bridge feels like entering a new country.

Here people speak Serbian, not Albanian, and use the dinar rather than the euro.

Changing money isn’t a problem, however; you can do it easily on the black market with no bothersome police interference. In fact, you can do pretty much anything, within reason, according to my friend.

‘You’d be surprised what you can get away with. Changing money, driving without licence plates – nobody cares.

The joke in Mitrovica is that you have to shoot three times for the police to turn up.’

It’s not a complete rule of law vacuum, he says – but close. ‘If you’re looking for a terrorist recruitment region then it’s not a bad place to start. Cooperation between intelligence agencies is weak.

Education is very shoddy, especially in rural areas.

Religion is filling the void that communism filled before.’

Yet there’s ‘lots of resilience against extremism’, he adds.

Most people are moderate

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Muslims, who see no contradiction between their faith and drinking, smoking and sex. ‘It’s more about culture and tradition. The main religion is Albanianism, as ethnic belonging took over from religious during the decades spent fighting against Muslim Ottoman rule.’

The Berlin of the Balkans, Mitrovice is a vibrant but confused and unsettling place. Littered with NGOs and UN agencies, its muddled identity is forged from conflict, chaos and international interference.

Plans to open the bridge are constantly postponed, while tensions simmer unchecked.

‘It’s two very different cultures and languages,’ my friend says. ‘It’s difficult to see how the north could become fully integrated.’

After my friend leaves, I’m told my coffee has been paid for by the man at the next table. I assume it’s a comeon – Balkan men are feisty beasts when it comes to preying on weak, vulnerable fillies such as myself, I’m discovering – but it turns out it was his young son’s idea. ‘He overheard you’re a journalist and he likes journalists,’ the man tells me.

Wow, I think. I wonder how long that will last?

This thoughtful little journophile is not the only Kosovan youngster I develop a soft spot for during my travels through the country, however. Generally, I’m not a huge fan of kids, who I tend to view as a worryingly feckless bunch of miniature sociopaths. But dozens of them run and wave and shout cheery greetings as I cycle towards Pristina, and one even rescues my pannier after it flies off over a rogue speed-bump. During a rest stop by a school, I tell a teacher – the only person I meet who speaks English – how sweet they all seem.

‘Yes,’ she concedes. ‘They’re our best hope for the future.’

However, in many schools they are poisoned against the Serbs, she says. ‘For me there is no good nationality and bad nationality, just good people and bad people. But if you poison the children then what hope do we have?’

My first impression of Pristina is of an attractive, modern, functional place with few obvious signs of the precarious instability at its core. There are also few obvious signs of its rich history of Ottoman occupation, the city having fallen victim to the Communists’ ruthless modernisation drive. I spend an enjoyable afternoon visiting what remnants of its past remain, however – including four striking mosques, the Great Hammam (bathhouse) and the charming 18th century Emin Gjiku museum containing traditional tools, textiles, furniture, pottery, handicrafts and weaponry.

Overall, the city seems something of a muddle.

A quick scoot around the centre reveals a clutter of old and new (or new and newer) buildings thrown together like clothes at a jumble sale. This is mainly due to historically lax enforcement of planning laws, I am told – as well as the fact that much of the construction industry is controlled by the mafia, who use housing to launder their loot.

In Pristina, I meet a EULEX prosecutor for dinner near ‘small cafe street’ (roads are known by colloquial, descriptive names here), who tells me that organised crime remains a massive problem in Kosovo. ‘But rule of law is strengthening,’ he stresses.

‘Change is visible with the naked eye. You don’t need a microscope.’

The lawyer is a great fan of

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the Kosovan people, who he believes have ‘warm hearts and curious minds’.

I find myself agreeing with him. Here, I’ve only encountered friendliness and goodwill, and I find myself reluctant to leave. But leave I must, and after just a couple of days of rest and recuperation with my lovely hosts – an American investigative journalist and Irish lawyer – I reluctantly hit the road again.

Over the next two days, I work my way across Kosovo and Serbia towards Bulgaria. Despite my intention to keep abreast of it, winter has now caught me in its spindly claws. Wind whips and blusters around me as I pedal up and down the hills towards Gjilan (dreary) and Vranje (marginally less dreary). The usual melee of half-built houses, hopeless mutts, semi-deranged livestock and dusty, ramshackle shopfronts line the road en route, and I find myself itching to reach the border.

In Vranje, I chicken out of camping as the temperature is outside my optimum range of 19-22C and instead check into by far the best budget hotel I’ve stayed at yet, boasting both clean sheets and a towel rail. To mark the occasion, I venture into town for dinner, where I am invited to join a chirpy Serb who is celebrating his 36th birthday with his brothers. He is originally from a small, east Kosovan village where Serbs and Albanians ‘live

happily side by side’, and now works in a Vranje factory making heating equipment. He chats me up while showing me dozens of pictures of him and his friends feeding ducks in Geneva.

‘Serbia isn’t a good place to live,’ he says ruefully. ‘Everyone is sad. Nobody laughs enough.’

The next day I set off on a tough 110km schlepp towards Bulgaria, along a flat, single-lane road where lorries compete to send me hurtling into the afterlife.

At about the halfway point, the road starts wending uphill, following the gentle contours of a stream deep into the mountains. For the next 30km I climb and climb, my skin tingling in the sweet autumnal air. The beauty of my surroundings is invigorating, and soon the cars and houses fall away and it’s just me, the road, the sun and the sky.

Then, suddenly, I’m at the top, and off I swoop down down down through the thick, sunkissed forest, the cool breeze wrapping about me like a silk chemise.

At the bottom I hit the border – and, I have to admit, it’s a disappointment.

I am expecting some glorious Ozymandias-style relic of gnarled, rusty decline; tangled coils of symbolic barb heralding empires’ inevitable decay.

But no hint remains of the Iron Curtain now. Instead, I find just a normal, uninspiring checkpoint with a smattering

of portly guards, who unsportingly let me through without a second glance.

About 18km later, after following a lovely, leafy road through the fields, I arrive in Tran. It suddenly dawns on me that I’ve hit my tenth country out of twenty, and my last fully-fledged European state.

I am excited to have made it this far, and feel obliged to crack open a bottle of excellent, earthy Domaine Pesthera 2011 in celebration. What’s in store for the remaining ten countries, I wonder?

Will I make it through intact? Will Maud ever truly be tamed? Will I finally be blessed with the firm, shapely calves I’ve hankered after for so long?

As I squint with my mind’s eye, however, what lays beyond the horizon remains little more than a grey smudge; a misty morning sky yet to clear. I have absolutely no idea what’s in store.

Except that it’s going to be an adventure.

And begin with a god-awful hangover tomorrow morning.

Follow Rebecca’s journey on her website at thebicyclediaries.co.uk, Twitter at reo_lowe or Facebook at facebook.com/ bexbicyclediaries. Rebecca is sponsored

by Kona (Kona Sutra 2016 bike), Lightwave (Firelight 250 sleeping bag and G15 Raid tent), Garmin (Edge 1000 satnav), Arkel (Orca panniers), Berghaus (clothes), Lenovo (ThinkPad X1 Carbon Ultrabook) and Pedros (ICM Multitool).

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CENTRAL CHINA BIKE-MAG.COM

TOURING

Cycling through Central China

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SICHUAN PROVINCE After a week in Chengdu I set out on my bike to ride south and east across Sichuan Province. My goal was to make it to Chongqing, a port on the Yangtze River, and from there take a cruise through the famous Three Gorges.

Bicycles, along with trucks of rocks and other second-class vehicles, are not allowed on the highways in mainland China, so we take secondary roads. The roads are mostly paved and mostly good, and I’ve seen a lot of rural Sichuan. The countryside is hilly and green, and very densely populated. It is also entirely blanketed in fog (perhaps smog but I don’t know), and, closer to earth it’s covered with coal. I share the shoulder with many local cyclists and pedestrians, including masses of children in their school uniforms.

About half of the time the road is lined with houses or other buildings, but a lot of times you do see big fields; it’s not all built-up area. People seem mostly occupied with crushing big rocks into small rocks, or stripping bamboo and weaving it into baskets, or playing mahjong. Ducks are everywhere, and chickens.

In general the traffic is not too bad and I think China is a good place to travel by bike. People are very nonchalant about a whitey riding through their village, unless you stop and then they crowd around, but not in an intimidating way. They also

always speak Chinese to me. When I don’t understand, they write down what they’re saying (in Chinese).

I think this may be because while people speak different dialects they all understand the same writing system. Except me of course.

In the evenings I find a hotel by pulling over to some pedestrians and making a sleeping gesture: closing my eyes and resting my head sideways on hands pressed together. This works well and they usually point me on down the street, until I’m outside a hotel and then they point me inside.

(The reason I can’t recognise hotels is that it’s often the same word as restaurant and shop, and the fronts all look like cafes.) To find food I stop at a restaurant - there are hundreds of tiny places along the roads - and make the Chinese eating gesture, which is like shovelling food into your mouth with rotating motions of your hand just under your chin (where you hold the rice bowl). Then sometimes they point to some dead animals and ask me to pick one to eat. Or they show me a menu in Chinese, which I still can’t read at all. If I am not feeling adventurous I show them my notebook with the names of three dishes written down in Chinese.

Two are shredded pork with greens and one is scrambled eggs with tomato. For a long time I had just the shredded pork ones so I was eating that every day. Then I was feeling adventurous once and got scrambled eggs with tomato, so I asked the girl to write it down. Now I can order that.

Amelia Oliver’s story of cycling through Sichuan, Chongqing and Hubei Provinces

Find out more about Rebecca’s Journey Twitter: reo_lowe (https://twitter.com/reo_lowe) Facebook group: The Bicycle Diaries (https://www.facebook.com/ bexbicyclediaries/)

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Two things about travelling in China: In the hotels, even the dives, they always give you thermoses of boiling hot water, for tea or washing or whatever, and it stays hot all night. This is great when it’s cold. The other thing is that people hawk and spit constantly. It’s all over everywhere, including the floors of cafes and the aisles of buses. I am not exaggerating.

After a couple days on the road I arrived in Leshan, a large town (over three million people) famous as the home of the largest Buddha in the world - even before the ones in Bamian were blown up. The fog/smog was so bad in Leshan that I barely got to see the Buddha. He is seated, carved out of a cliff at the point where two rivers meet. Carving him took 90 years, but the sculpture has lasted over 1000.

DINOSAUR MUSEUM Two days southeast of Leshan is Zigong, home of a dinosaur museum. The museum is absolutely fascinating - I

like that stuff anyway though. It’s one of the richest sites in the world, because of the variety and quality of the fossils.

Apparently 160 million years ago an assortment of dead dinosaurs washed downstream to this site, where they were covered in silt and their skeletons were perfectly preserved. The dinosaurs have Chinese names of course, like Yangchuanosaurus, who looks like T-rex. And the displays are great; they even have little models in front of the skeleton ensembles, showing what they might have looked like with skin on. Yangchuanosaurus holds another dinosaur in his mouth, and the model roars and moves and shakes its prey.

That actually made me laugh out loud.

The museum is built right over the richest part of the fossil site, so you can look down and see where the excavation work continues. Upstairs they have a beautiful treasure room (it looks like a sculpture gallery) where they display the jewels of the find - complete skeletons of tiny rare dinosaurs, a huge intact carnivore skull, a clutch of eggs, a fossil of skin. Stuff that advances science.

The Chinese tourism touches are: they show a horrible-quality Jurassic Park III, you can have a CD made of your child running from triceratops (it looks like they’re in a computer game), and they are building a giant Disneyland-style dinosaur theme park across the street.

Cycling from town to town I follow the routine the Kiwis used when we were riding together. Usually I get up at 7:30 and hope to be on the road 9:00. I have lunch around 1:00 p.m. and keep riding until around 5:00 p.m. In a day I cover around 90 km - it depends mostly on the quality of the roads and how hilly or flat the terrain is, and also on whether the wind is behind you or in your face. By comparison, when we were climbing over the Himalayas there were a couple of days when we covered less than 20 km, and our average day on the plateau was 45 km. Altitude played a big role in this.

The Chinese road atlas I have is great - the only real problems are that they are building roads so fast that often my planned route has been changed or (worse) is under renovation or

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construction. There are road signs everywhere, so I’ve managed to learn a few Chinese characters just by using my maps. The secondary roads all look the same on the map of course but in reality they range from perfect pavement with separate bike lanes to troughs of mud full of big sharp rocks. They put the rocks in there on purpose; traction for the trucks and local buses. Most of the time I’m riding on two-lane paved roads, winding through farmland and brick or concrete-block villages.

POLICE VISIT It took me five days to ride from the dinosaur town to Chongqing, the river port. The last night before arriving in Chongqing I was visited by the police.

(Until very recently much of China was closed to foreigners, and rural cops don’t really like independent foreigners romping at will around their towns.

The laws aren’t at all clear even now and it may be that some areas are still off limits.) They didn’t waste time and arrived about 30 minutes after I’d checked into a hotel, while I was in the shower. Of course the hotel had no way to tell me that the police were here so they had a wait while I got clean. This is much better than in Tibet, where the cops barged into the room in the middle of the night. These guys were two - a big one in a leather jacket and buzz cut, and a smallish one in glasses, and they brought a smarmy teacher to interpret. They just wanted to see my visa (newly extended) and to have me fill in a registration form. They also told me I shouldn’t leave the hotel, for my own safety, they said. Then we all had a banquet in the hotel restaurant with the hotel boss and his son. It all smacked seriously of the Soviet Union.

The cops left the banquet early but of course I had to stay and make rice-liquor toasts, translated by a young PLA (that’s People’s Liberation Army) captain whom they brought in to interpret - the cops had not invited the first interpreter to stay for dinner. Unlike Russia they didn’t get sloshed, didn’t sing folk songs or dance, and the party broke up around 9:00 pm. The food looked delicious but I was trying to be polite so I didn’t eat much. Once a matronly woman came in and scooped a delicacy out of a bowl for me - a fish head, with gill covers and fins.

I think you’re supposed to suck the soft parts out, but I can’t do that yet. Certainly I can’t do it gracefully with chopsticks.

CHONGQING MUNICIPALITY By the time I made it to Chongqing I’d decided that I didn’t need to cycle through any more of rural central China. Especially the last bit had been extremely coally and grey. I was filthy - even greasy - when I arrived in the city. Having never been to Hong Kong or Shanghai, I imagined they are what Chongqing is striving for: shiny skyscrapers packed in tight and swathed in flashing neon. Perhaps New York is like this too. Chongqing is built on hills, like San Francisco, and there are no bicycles. I felt like Country Mouse riding into the city; I could just shake my head and say wow... People are dressed stylishly and you can buy beautiful

things and walk around late at night. The city is very different from the countryside, and this is Western China, supposedly much more humble than the Eastern cities.

YANGTZE RIVER Cruising down the Yangtze River (called the Chang Jiang (meaning Long River) in China) through the Three Gorges is one of those things visitors to China feel they should do. Especially since the Chinese are building the world’s largest dam just down river from the Gorges, and in mid-2003 the water level will rise 135 meters and turn the Gorges into the world’s largest man-made lake. By 2009

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the water is expected to rise another 40 meters. The boat trip from Chongqing to just above the dam site lasts two days.

I got sold a deal that promised I would pay for second class and get first, and it actually worked out. I even had my cabin to myself except for occasional rats. We saw the Three Gorges (well, the middle one), and the arguably-more-spectacular Small Three Gorges, a six hour excursion on smaller boats. Perhaps more impressive than the scenery were the destroyed towns along the river. Any building below the 135-meter line has been bashed into rubble. This means entire streets, towns and cities, the homes of millions of people. A project like this would never be possible in a democratic country. Everywhere people are picking through the ruins, salvaging metal mostly. The whole thing is a muddy mess. New towns are being built higher up the hills.

Tourism is huge in China - I mean Chinese tourists travelling around their own country. It’s mostly mass tourism, the kind where you wear a badge and follow the guide and his loudspeaker, and every tourist site is decorated with kitsch and food vendors. My boat trip on the Yangtze was like this. There was only one other Westerner on the boat, but luckily she was a cool person. I was happy to be able to communicate with someone. At 5:30 in the morning the first day the radio came on (you can’t turn it off), announcing that at 6:00 we will all go on a tour of whatever town we were in. They don’t announce it just once, either. Even though it was pitch black outside, almost everyone went. The second morning they woke us up at 5:30

again - we were passing through the first Gorge. Again it was pitch black, but the boat turned on a spotlight beam which lit up spots of the banks as we cruised by.

We passed the third Gorge in the evening after dark, and the cruise ended late at night at an obscure dock an hour’s drive out of anywhere. Amazingly, I actually got them to put my bike and all my gear onto a free bus to the city. It was the very last bus though; only me and about six peasants who were also loaded with baggage.

HUBEI PROVINCE The main reason I had wanted to end up in this part of China (a province called Hubei, exactly in the centre of the country) was that my parents had arranged for me to spend Christmas week in a hotel nearby. They had exchanged their timeshare for a week for me at a partner resort in the town of Ezhou, Hubei. It took me a day to ride to Ezhou. The main feature of this ride was that I actually saw wild land that wasn’t being used for anything, in China. It was sort of shrubby and hilly, mostly covered with tall dry grass.

Around 4 p.m. I rode into Ezhou, a midsized industrial town. I can’t understand why anyone would build a real luxury resort in this place. Of course the security stopped me when I rode onto the grounds, because everyone else there is a nouveau-riche Chinese man or their tacky-expensive consort, and they arrive in Mercedes not on loaded touring bicycles. I was pretty muddy too.

But to give the staff credit, they checked

me in with no problem and gave me a good suite too. I ran a bath and laughed and said “I can’t believe it!” The whole situation kept me laughing for the entire week I was there. I’m not complaining though, because it was nice. I think the resort is mostly used for banquets and overnight parties - it’s not like they have restaurants with English menus or anything. The food was Chinese buffet, but much better of course than what I’d been getting on the road. And we dined to music; shopping-mall-style renditions of the Western favourites Happy Birthday and Here Comes the Bride.

I can’t imagine why any foreigner would ever come here, let alone at Christmas.

I wondered if any foreigners ever even pass through Ezhou, but that question was answered by the head of the municipal office for foreign contacts, who paid me a visit in my hotel room (she did call first). Hubei has several foreign investment projects, she explained, and asked if I was interested in investing; many Westerners are investing in China these days. I wonder what they must think - every tourist can just decide to open a bottling plant? Still, that’s pretty proactive.

After my week at the resort, during which I did absolutely nothing besides walk around and send emails about Tibet, I decided I needed to get back on the tourist trail and meet other Westerners.

And I wanted to be somewhere warmer in January. That meant heading south, but I couldn’t stomach cycling for two weeks through cold rural Hubei and Hunnan to get anywhere. So I got on the train to Guangxi, in time to celebrate New Year’s in the tourist haven of Yangshou.

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LAKE DISTRICT BIKE-MAG.COM

Written by Alison Jacobs

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THE LAKE DISTRICT by bicycle How to handle the Tour of Britain (with stops for brew and touring)

Proceeding with our arrangement on handling the course of the 2018 Tour of Britain - at an all the more restful pace Simon Parker offers a manual for the precarious inclines of the Lake District.

The adventure This is, beyond a shadow of a doubt, the most ostensibly astonishing of all the visit’s stages this year, starting in Hand truck in-Furness, adjoining Morecambe Sound and conclusion 105 miles later on the edges of Keswick at Whinlatter Pass. The race is depended upon to last barely short of four hours, anyway most learners should allow no under twofold that, in light of the fact that there’s so much scene worth stopping to appreciate.

The best stop Keeping the messy stack of Morecambe Bay on your right shoulder, you’ll wind north towards the neighborhood of Ulverston, before the course scrambles toward the lakes by methods for undulating farmland on every horizon. An irritating summer heatwave couldn’t dry this rich, clearing scene - and you’ll wind up cycling adjoining soaked, lichen-settled slopes and lazy feeding pens mistook for dry stone dividers. In case you’ve anytime done “thumps and dashes” at a flipping around class then this region is the veritable frame - a substantial bit of a mile up, an expansive segment of a mile down. Go once more.

You’ll take after the A593 that runs neighboring the five mile long, a vast part of a mile wide, Coniston Water

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- the District Lake stop’s third greatest lake, before accomplishing the town of Coniston at the northern tip, where you’ll find a bank, a little broad store and a couple of bistros. Starting there the course brushes the north side of Windermere, before moving to in excess of 600 feet at Dunmail Raise, just south of Thirlmere.

North of Ambleside there’s a remarkable cycle way that will save you the issue of cycling on the A591 twofold carriageway, taking you on the west side of Thirlmere, neighboring congested banks and rising above pine trees looking like bigger than common Christmas trees.

Finally the course slides into Keswick where you can either whole a further 40-mile hover to Cockermouth and Workington, or (like me) save it to the next morning when your legs quit feeling like stick.

Rest and refuel Convent House Hotel (01229 838282; abbeyhousehotel. com) is only a mile from the focal point of Barrow-inFurness and the suites are gigantic, with baths and showers, couches and chimneys. The eatery, Oscar’s, has healthy plates of mixed greens, nearby frankfurters and steaks. Breakfast is served from 0645am, which is ideal for a solid start, and there are Manx kippers from the Isle of Man, right over the Irish Sea. Duplicates from £70.

Around five miles from the finish of the race, west of Keswick, The Cottage in the Wood (01768 778409; thecottageinthewood.co.uk) is a brilliantly comfortable spot and situated appropriate next to the course. The nourishment is excellent and has progressed toward becoming something of a nearby foodie journey as of late. There’s Morecambe Bay crab, privately raised pork emblems and scrounged woods nourishments where conceivable. The fried eggs with smoked bacon and chanterelle mushrooms are scrumptious. Duplicates from £130.

Backup ways to go On the off chance that you’re getting the plan from Lancaster then you should need to get off at Ulverston and join the course there, instead of taking care of business to Wheelbarrel in-Furness. This will shave off the flattish 11-mile segment toward the start of the stage that skirts Morecambe Bay. How to arrive?

By means of set up this is decidedly a pinch of schlep from most corners of the UK, yet it’s legitimized, in spite of all the inconvenience. A limited toll from London to Cart in-Furness changes some place in the scope of £47 and £109 and it takes around 3 hours and 45 minutes.

There’s no get ready station in Keswick so you’ll need to either ride a further 17 miles to Penrith or take a taxi.

Confirmations from Penrith to London start at £44.

Rundown Spectacularly awesome the distance - this stage displays the most sweeping sees and the minimum people. In case I could ride one stage over and over, it would be this one.

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LAKE DISTRICT Directory

BIKE-MAG.COM

Rothay Lodge Rothay Lodge White Bridge, Grasmere, Ambleside LA22 9RH

Rothay Lodge and Rothay Lodge Apartment are within the Grasmere conservation area which is in the centre of the Lake District National Park, the only UK national park to have UNESCO World Heritage Status.

each with an en-suite bath/ shower room.

There are shops, restaurants and pubs in the village.

Grasmere also has a Michelin starred restaurant at Forest Side, just a few minutes walk away.

Both properties are suitable for wheelchair users

Rothay Lodge (the House) sleeps up to 10 in 5 bedrooms,

The ground floor Apartment is self-contained and sleeps up to 4 in 2 bedrooms, each with an en-suite bath/shower room.

Bike Lock

uninterrupted views of the surrounding fells and valley.

The gardens at Rothay Lodge are a particular feature with the gurgling Greenhead Gill flowing through the gardens.

Wi-Fi

Website: http://www.rothay-lodge.co.uk/ Email: lindsay@rothay-lodge.co.uk Landline: 01159232618 Mobile: 07595909002

Set only a few minutes stroll away from the centre of picturesque Grasmere village but in a peaceful spot in a breathtaking setting alongside the River Rothay and with

Underhill Guest House 14 Ambleside Road, Keswick CA12 4DL

Hello and welcome to Underhill Guest House webpage.

We are situated in the Historic market town of Keswick on the shore of Derwentwater in the Lake District National Park.

You can use the menu options at the top of this page to find out more. You can also call, text or email and we’ll answer any questions you have.

less than 5 minutes walk from Moot Hall in Keswick town centre and has off street parking, enough for one space per room when fully booked.

Our aim is to be great value for money with clean, comfortable rooms, excellent breakfast and facilities. We are looking forward to putting our own stamp on the property using local suppliers, craftsmen and our own elbow grease.

Bike Lock

walking, cycling, mountain biking, touring the lakes or just relaxing in the pedestrianised town square with tea and a cake.

There are plenty of restaurants, tea shops, cafes and pubs in Keswick to keep you topped up whilst you explore.

Vanessa is an excellent cook (as my waist line can attest) and is pleased to be able to offer a varied menu, doing our best to We hope to meet (or see you suit all tastes. Please have a look again) soon.

Keswick is a historic market town at the Breakfast tab to see some on the shores of Derwentwater of our breakfast offerings.

Underhill Guest House is situated and is a perfect base for hill

Wi-Fi

Website: underhillguesthouse.com Email: UnderhillGuestHouse@Gmail. com Mobile: 07848 449722

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Link House Bassenthwaite Lake, Cockermouth, Cumbria CA13 9YD Link House is a late Victorian Country Guest House, situated close to Bassenthwaite Lake with stunning views of both forests and fells. Traditionally built in the late Victorian age, this country house enjoys stunning views of the forest and surrounding fells including the 3046 feet Skiddaw.

The sunny aspect gives a warm and comfortable atmosphere in which to relax and feel at home.

Bike Lock

We are situated just off the A66 at the northern tip of Bassenthwaite Lake; approx 8 miles from the popular tourist town of Keswick and 5 miles from the old market town of Cockermouth, birthplace of William Wordsworth and the oldest town in Cumbria.

Wi-Fi

Website: http://www.link-house.co.uk Landline: 017687 76291

Cragg House Farm Buttermere, Nr Cockermouth CA13 9XA Cragg House Farm is the ideal place to stay if you enjoy walking; from all day walks over Red Pike, Fleetwith Pike and the famous Haystacks (the final resting place of Wainwright) to more gentle walks around Buttermere and Crummock Water. All without starting your car in the morning.

Bike Lock

Wood House (2 minutes from Cragg House Farm) for use on Crummock Water.

Fishing is available on Buttermere, Crummock and Loweswater, also on the privately owned fisheries at Seathwaite (Borrowdale), Lorton and Watendlath Tarn.

Wi-Fi

Website: buttermerecottage.co.uk Landline: 017687 70204

Boats can be hired from

Li’le Hullets Bed & Breakfast 122 AlpineStand, SudTirol, Austria Li’le Hullets Bed and Breakfast is a 400 year old former Westmorland farmhouse.

Painstakingly restored and refurbished, it offers a very high standard of accommodation throughout. The restoration has retained many of the original features typical of a 17th century Lakeland farmhouse, including:

Welcome to Li’le Hullets Bed and Breakfast in Staveley, Cumbria, in the Lake District.

Li’le Hullets Bed and Breakfast is situated in the quiet rural village of Staveley, in the Lake District National Park, in between the old market town of Kendal, and Windermere.

Bike Lock

Wi-Fi

Bike Lock

Wi-Fi

Website: lilehullets.co.uk Landline: 01539 821148

The Swan Hotel The Swan Hotel & Spa, Newby Bridge, Cumbria, LA12 8NB We’re delighted to announce that The Swan is now back open! Our rooms, cottages, restaurant, bar, terrace Health club and Spa are all now open for bookings*, and you can now bring your fourlegged friend too!

We know that our guests will be looking for a safe and pleasant stay at The Swan. So when you book a stay you can be safe in the

knowledge that we’ve made some pretty important and exciting changes ahead of our reopening.

It’s the perfect time to take the whole family to The Swan midweek, to enjoy all the culinary delights we have to offer. The scheme means that a family of five can go out for dinner and have a meal worth £100 for £50!

Website: swanhotel.com Landline: 015395 31681

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SHOWCASE BIKE-MAG.COM

FUNKIER HUEZA GENTS ELITE JERSEY

The Original Student Bikes.

From £225 Stylish, affordable, cycle-friendly accommodation with 14 rooms sleeping up to 43 people. A great base for exploring the Cotswolds. Individual and exclusive bookings all welcome.

mangobikes.com/students

thebarrelstore.co.uk stay@thebarrelstore.co.uk 01285 657181

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available in 3 Colours

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Tel: 01772 459887 Web: www.bob-elliot.co.uk Twitter: www.bob-elliot.co.uk/twitter Facebook: www.bob-elliot.co.uk/facebook

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The ultimate all in one home & bike insurance

We combine your home and bike insurance under one policy to save you money

Men and women of the Royal Navy and Royal Marines serve their country, often at times of danger. Established in 1922, the RNBT helps non‑commissioned Sailors, Marines and their families (The RNBT Family) throughout their lives.

Your donation will help us to help them.

The Royal Naval Benevolent Trust, Castaway House, 311 Twyford Avenue, PoRTsmouTH, Hampshire, Po2 8RN T: 02392 690112 F: 02392 660852 E: rnbt@rnbt.org.uk www.rnbt.org.uk

Experience

that perfect ride one more time.

Cycling on the shores of Loch Rannoch The highlands are a region synonymous with drama and romance, with its sprawling unbridled landscape. The Loch Rannoch Highland Resort incorporates itself within

soaring Munros and beautiful mountain ranges, sat on the banks of the jewel blue of Loch Rannoch surrounded

by emerald forests. Our lodges blend tastefully within this incredible location. We offer self catering lodges that cater up to 8 persons.

Wi-Fi CYCLE CAMERA

Wi-Fi Bicycle/Motorcycle Camera

With our bike camera, you can watch that trail run you did this morning again and again, and share the excitement with your family and friends. If it was your best ride ever, wouldn’t you want to prove it?

- Records the action while you ride - Wi-fi control through smart phone - Video and snapshot modes - 360° pivot for selfies - Minimal vibration, polished aluminum mounting bracket - 3-7/8” (9.84cm) extra wide angle mirror lens - Colorful LED indicators

Loch Rannoch Highland Resort The Avenue, Kinloch Rannoch, Perthshire, PH16 5PR www.lochrannochhighlandclub.com • admin@lochrannochhighlandclub.com • +44(0) 1796 471850

Rancho Dominguez, CA 90221 www.ksource.org

Black

White

3-7/8” 9.84 cm Color LED indicators

Yellow

Mounts easily to handlebar

AUGUST 2020 BIKE MAGAZINE 59

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60 BIKE MAGAZINE AUGUST 2020

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