BIKE Magazine - February 2019

eBike guide - Adventure cycling - Training - Nutrition - Bike review

UK’s Leisure Cycling and Travel Magazine

FEBRUARY 2019

COAST2COAST CYCLING TO WORK? FIND INSIDE

ELECTRIC BIKE REVIEW

Cycling in FEBRUARY 2019

£5.95 / €6.59

PRINTED IN THE UK

ISSN 2631-634X

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2 BIKE MAGAZINE

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BIKE MAGAZINE 3

CONTENTS

INSIDE FEBRUARY 2019

29 7 reasons you should cycle in Winchester A city not only steeped in centuries of interesting history but also with an abundance of opportunities to hop aboard the bicycle. > Toruing

34 Cycling Around Stoke

18 The New Forest Discovering the lanes and woods the local horses walk, graze and sleep in.

From the moment we step out of Stoke on Trent railway station there are constant reminders that this is the home of china > Touring

40 Coast to Coast

> Touring

10 Raleigh Redux iE 2019

Alexis Zafiropoulos and four mates make a five-day, 171.3 mile ‘bikepacking’ adventure out of Sustrans’ excellent C2C trail from Whitehaven to Tynemouth with plenty of diversions, luxury items, rain and whimsy en-route. > Cross Country

46 Cork, Killarney

> eBike Review

Though slightly manic travel arrangements are something that I have become all too accustomed to, six days earlier I had been sat in Pembroke docks listening to a storm passing through whilst awaiting a delayed ferry to take my steed and I to the Emerald Isle > Ireland

4 BIKE MAGAZINE

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BIKE MAGAZINE 5

WELCOME

Welcome

to February issue When putting together an issue that includes commuting we realised we weren’t just looking at cycling to work. A crucial part of getting the population more active and reducing air pollution and congestion means considering the commute to school.

It is an area that is close to my heart having worked for many years as a schools officer for the sustainable transport charity, Transaid. It was a joyous job, especially seeing the pleasure of people learning bike handing skills and developing independence. The project is an easy sell to most people, convincing environment can be a bit more challenging. Success is life-transforming: families also embrace the bicycle in free-time and some communities change philosophies.

Cycling that makes a difference, both to the individual and the wider world, needs to be routine. There is no better opportunity than the daily commute to work. So why not start good habit forming young and enjoy the rewards as a family. A car-driving colleague asked me recently “Why do you cycle to work every day when you’ve got a car?”

I replied “It’s what I’ve always done, I cycled to school every day.” He still looked bemused, but then he’s neither a cyclist nor a parent.

This edition has a country focus - Travelling from coast to coast on the C2C route, exploring Stoke, Winchester, Scotland and much more. > Michael Stokes - Assistant Editor

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eBike guide - Adventure cycling - Training - Nutrition - Bike review

UK’s Leisure Cycling and Travel Magazine

FEBRUARY 2019

COAST2COAST CYCLING TO WORK? FIND INSIDE

ELECTRIC BIKE REVIEW

E. chris.smith@bike-mag.com Webify Media Ltd 59 Jodane Street, London

Cycling in

THE NEW FOREST FEBRUARY 2019

£5.95 / €6.59

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6 BIKE MAGAZINE

COMMUTING

Cycling to Work

Interview with Steve Edgell, Director of Cycle Solutions and Chairman of the Cycle to Work Alliance The cycle to work initiative is a tax-efficient, and on the whole, salary-sacrificed employee benefit that provides a way of encouraging more adults to take up cycling. Introduced in the 1999 Finance Act, the scheme encourages employers to loan bicycles and cycling safety equipment to employees as a tax-exempt benefit for the purpose of cycling to work. Under the scheme, employers buy cycling equipment from suppliers approved by their scheme administrator, and hire it to their employees. At the end of the loan period, the employer may choose to give the employee the option to purchase the equipment.

The Cycle to Work scheme - how easy it is nowadays?

With the government introduction of the scheme in 1999, the awareness and take up has increased year on year. Cycle Solutions as one of the UK’s national providers has seen an increase by 36% in the last year alone and is forecast to grow in 2019. The Cycle Solution scheme is easy to set up with any employer from SME to large multinational organisation.

We operate an online process which allows any organisation across the UK to set up the scheme. We have achieved great success with companies such as KP Snacks and EDF Energy both of whom operate on a multisite level, so our online platform works exceptionally well for them. We even visit each site with our ‘pop up road show’, and have travelled from Aberdeen to St Ives, so the staff can sample the bikes and accessories available before signing up.

Can you give us figures on the number of companies and employees using the scheme?

We have a wide range of clients ranging from Universities and Energy Providers to Public Sector bodies, there really is a desire cross industry. We have seen tens of thousands of employees take up the scheme in the last twelve months.

Over 2,500 employers use our cycle to work scheme on a regular basis. Most of these employers recognise not only the savings that employees can achieve through the salary sacrifice arrangements, but also the wider benefits to the environment and employee health and wellbeing.

What else is needed to encourage people to commute on a bike?

More and more people are turning to cycling for the daily commute because they recognise the savings they make against using their own car or public transport.

However, there is still a perception amongst many would-be cyclists British roads are unsafe for bikes. 2013’s British Social Attitudes Survey on ‘Public Attitudes to Transport’ found that 61% of respondents felt it was too dangerous for them to cycle on roads. In actual fact, despite thousands more cyclists taking to the road, the long-term trend is that cycling deaths are falling.

There has already been significant investment in cycling infrastructure with London’s Cycle Superhighways probably the most well-known. However, in order for us to truly embrace cycling in the UK we need to see increased and sustained investment in changing our roads to give more priority to cyclists and pedestrians.

BIKE MAGAZINE 7

8 BIKE MAGAZINE

E-BIKES

E-BIKES FOR HIRE Are electric bikes the answer to congestion, transport and health conundrums? Eleven new projects providing electric assisted pedal cycles for hire could help Carplus find out.

These schemes, selected by Carplus for funding from the Department for Transport, will put over 200 new electric bikes into circulation. The bikes have small electric motors which boost the riders’ pedal power and will be used in a variety of situations including: • Electric bikes for hire in hilly towns and cities where riding pedal-only bikes is challenging.

• Cargo bikes with electric motors to help hirers transport heavier loads.

electric bikes to: • Help more people make doorto-door journeys on shared and public transport.

• Reduce congestion, demand for parking and pressure on the transport system.

• Reduce pollution, CO2 emissions and improve air quality

• A scheme providing transport for housing association homes in low income areas.

• Encourage more people to try or return to cycling, and for people to cycle more often.

• Tourist areas offering electric assisted bikes on hire to encourage people onto bikes for the first time or back onto bikes after a long break.

• Improve health and wellbeing, whilst stimulating community cohesion Antonia Roberts, Electric Bike Programme Coordinator, said:

Around one in ten bicycles sold in Germany, the Netherlands, Austria and Switzerland are pedal-assisted e-bikes; bike hire schemes in many cities like Madrid and Copenhagen now have electric fleets.

Carplus would like to support increasing interest in similar schemes in the UK. The project will follow the development of new projects to investigate the potential for shared

“We will be using the data from these projects to find out what sort of people are attracted to electric bikes in different contexts, and why. It’s important for future planning to learn more about the sort of journeys might be appropriate for shared electric bikes and what sort of journeys people actually make using them.

We need to know whether shared electric bike schemes work in urban or rural environments

BIKE MAGAZINE 9

E-BIKES

and whether the bikes need to be based together, along rail corridors, in workplaces, leisure facilities or residential areas.”

centres in Newport, Ryde and Cowes for tourists and public sector employees needing to travel round the area.

The successful projects include a range of operating models including self-service bikes, point to point hire networks, community led bike pools and schemes integrated with car clubs and public transport networks.

• Hebden Bridge: 15 e-bikes including cargo bikes for residents, local businesses and tourists to hire from the Hebden Bridge Alternative Energy Centre to ride in this hilly area.

Full list of schemes • Bristol: 24 e-bikes at four workplace hubs. Self-service cardopening bike lockers bookable through the Co-wheels car club website or app, available to employees in office hours and residents for weekends and evenings.

• Exeter: 22 e-bikes situated at railway stations and business parks integrated with Co-Cars operations in partnership with Nextbike and First Great Western Trains.

• Oxford: adding 16 e-bikes to the popular bike hire scheme run by Hourbike in Headington and East Oxford, in association with Oxfordshire County Council.

• Ryedale: providing 12 e-bikes for tourists exploring the areas of Malton, Pickering and the Howardian Hills. The bikes will be used in the wheels to work scheme over the off-season.

• Rotherham: Expansion of 70 electric bikes to the Journey Matters bike scheme, offering bikes to employees and the public via a popular mobile hub, aiming to attract commuters who previously do not cycle with short loans.

• Isle of Wight: 25 Red Squirrel Bikes e-bikes located at visitor

• Housing developments: 18 e-bikes at trial sites in Sustainable Ventures backed housing developments in low income communities to combat transport poverty in the east of England.

• Cambridge and Norwich: Cargo bikes on hire to local residents and businesses to transport larger loads from Outspoken.

• Eastbourne: 20 e-bikes connecting the hilly route between the University of Brighton campus in Eastbourne and Eastbourne railway station.

• Plymouth and surrounding area: Adding 20 e-bikes to a hire fleet of 60 bikes aimed at tourists and trials for local commuters, based around park and ride sites.

• New Forest National Park: New Forest National Park Authority and PEDALL scheme exploring the potential take up of cycling for a wider group of less able people by adding an all-ability cycle training programme with four adapted e-bikes.

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E-BIKES

RALEIGH REDUX IE 2019 Summary A sleek, purpose built high speed eBike, with excellent weight distribution and smooth power transfer, 10-speed drivetrain and powerful hydraulic disc brakes to match.

Stiff thru-axles and a rigid Aluminium alloy fork are balanced out by fatter 2.0â&#x20AC;? Schwalbe tires, great for comfort and varied urban terrain.

Available in three frame sizes for improved fit, durable chain-guide doubles as a bash guard, grippy pedals, locking grips and adjustable kickstand, great electric system and great display.

A little more ridged from last years model, however this can improve responsiveness, connecting you to the bikeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s agile experience.

BIKE MAGAZINE 11

E-BIKES

PRICE: £3,499

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E-BIKES

To run the forums, host the website, and travel, I charge a universal service fee for my reviews. This review was sponsored by Raleigh Electric. My goal is to be transparent and unbiased, this video and written review are not meant to be an endorsement of Raleigh products.

The Redux was a favourite of mine last year. Although it had some room for improvement, it was a nononsense urban bike well built for speed. For 2019, it is great to see Raleigh has refreshed and upgraded the Redux, making it an even stronger competitor. There is a cost to pay; £3,499, up from last year’s £3,199, so let’s dive in and see if it is worth it.

The bike has been redone in many ways, most notably the switch from a Brose Drive TF motor to a Bosch Performance line speed motor rated at 28mph. This change really compliments the ride, and helps the new Kiox display, and Bosh battery system stand out. Speaking of which, by moving to the Kiox and the 36v 13.4ah battery, it really makes for some interchangeability across other Raleigh products and Bosch lines as well. The intergraded lights are back and are great with a 500 lumens headlight at the front and 11 lumens 2 LED rear light placed out of the way so most bags won’t obstruct the view.

Meeting the road is a pair of Schwalbe Supermoto X tires with performance Green Guard puncture protection that are 27.5” x 2.4”. These tires are a great in-between for staying on the road but still adding some comfort as well as capabilities if the terrain gets a little bumpy. But other than the tires and the locking grips, the comfort doesn’t rally stretch too much further. It’s got a ridged aluminium alloy fork, now has a ridged stem, and there is no longer a standard suspension seat post. It is a 31.6mm post so you can swap it out with a Thud Buster or Body Float if desired. The rigidity is sometimes spoken of as a drawback on other bikes, but for a high-speed bike like the Redux, its actually somewhat of a compliment. Similar to the stiff suspension in high-end sports cars, the rigidity gives you a real feel for the road and adds to the responsiveness and agility of the experience. The rear rack is great and will hold things like a backpack or bag, but it is limited to just 10kg for maximum load. That is equal to about 22lbs which you could reach pretty easily as cargo weight tends to add up. Other features include an alloy chain ring guard, adjustable length kickstand that is away from the crank, bottle cage bosses, and sandpaper grip pedals.

Bosch offered three Performance Line motors at the time of this review and they all produce a bit of electronic whirring noise, use energy faster, and introduce some reduction-gearing drag compared to the Active Line motors (and many competing products). What you get in exchange is higher torque output, up to 63 Newton meters in this case, and high-speed 120 RPM pedal support. As someone who enjoys spinning quickly (pedalling fast) it’s nice that the Bosch Performance Line Speed motor can keep up and won’t fade out when downshifting into climbs. Imagine that you’re pedalling towards a hill and begin downshifting in anticipation, to make climbing easier, the motor will simply spin faster without dropping support as you approach… and it probably won’t stress the chain, sprockets, and derailleur as much when you do. This is because the Bosch motor controller, which measures rear wheel speed, pedal cadence, and pedal torque 1,000+ times per second, also listens for shifting and reduces pressure automatically. Given the mid-level Shimano Deore drivetrain with ten gears and wider range of supported speeds here, zero to 28mph (45km/h) you may be shifting more frequently than a Class 1 or Class 2 product, which only supports up to 20 mph (32km/h). For brakes, the Redux features 180mm Tektro Orion hydraulic disc brakes with adjustable reach levers. In the rear, we see 160mm disc brakes, these are a really good setup for stopping those higher-speed moments. The front has a 15mm through axle for strength and rigidity while the rear has a 12mm through axle. Other mechanicals feature 170mm FSA alloy crank arms and a11-32 tooth cassette. All in all a system made to work in harmony with with bikes capabilities.

Powering the 2019 Redux iE is a high-capacity Bosch PowerPack 500 offering 36 volts and 13.4 amp hours for nearly 500 watt hours of capacity. It’s one of the most widespread electric bike batteries in the world right now and uses the same form factor and mounting interface as the older, lower capacity, Bosch PowerPack 400. This means that finding replacements, borrowing additional packs, or renting batteries when traveling becomes much easier.

The plastic casing is durable but lightweight, especially compared to the new PowerTube 500 which weighs ~6.3lbs verses ~5.7lbs.

PowerPack batteries do stand out a bit visually because they mount on top of the frame tubing, but Raleigh

MAKE:

Raleigh MODEL:

Redux iE PRICE:

£3,499 BODY POSITION:

Forward SUGGESTED USE:

Urban, Commuting ELECTRIC BIKE CLASS:

Speed Pedalec (Class 3) Learn more about Ebike classes WARRANTY:

2 Year Comprehensive, Lifetime Frame MODEL YEAR:

2019

BIKE MAGAZINE 13

E-BIKES

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has done their best to sink the battery down into the downtube and even added a plastic shield to cover the top portion, blending it into the frame beautifully. The pack clicks down and secures with a high quality ABUS Ampero locking core. You can order locks and other accessories to match this key, reducing clutter and making it simpler to unlock the bike and battery. I noticed that the core is spring loaded, so you don’t need to insert and twist the key when mounting the pack… just be sure to push down until you hear it click.

Raleigh dealers (and really any Bosch certified eBike dealer) can help you adjust the mounting interface over time if you notice rattling or loosening, it’s a durable convenient design. And, that goes for the charger as well. With half a kilowatt-hour of capacity in this battery, the faster 4-amp Bosch charger allows you to spend more time riding vs. waiting, and yet it’s about the same size and in some cases lighter than many generic 2-amp chargers included with cheaper e-bikes. I like the wide proprietary plug design as well, because it isn’t likely to be mixed up with other chargers or get broken as easily.

You can charge this battery on or off the bike frame, making it great for commuters who need to charge inside at work, and you won’t be as likely to drop the battery during transport because it has a big plastic loop handle at the top. To maximise the life of this and most Lithium-ion batteries, try to keep it above 20% capacity and avoid extreme heat and cold. If you know you won’t be riding for some time, store at ~50% to reduce stress on the Lithium-ion cell chemistry.

One of the most noticeable updates for 2019 is the Bosch Kiox display panel vs. the Bosch Purion. This thing has a colour LCD with Gorilla glass screen, an active Micro-USB charging port, connects via magnets and is removable, but cannot be adjusted for glare because it mounts in a fixed position over the stem. In terms of actual use, the Kiox provides more detailed menu readouts; including 1% stepped battery percentage vs. a five-bar infographic with wider 20% steps. Its colour readout provides a fast and comfortable way to interpret assist levels (grey for Off, blue for Eco, green for Tour, yellow/gold for Sport, and red for Turbo). The screen on the Kiox is smaller than Purion, Intuvia, and Nyon, but the colours make it easier to interpret without having to squint and actually read. Because of how it’s mounted, my guess is that the Kiox may also take less damage if the bike tips or crashes. I think

it’s actually designed to pop off vs. cracking the mounting bracket when taking direct hits. Interacting with the display involves some button clicking. You begin by charging and mounting the battery, then press the power button on the display unit. The Kiox has power and lights buttons positioned juste below the screen. Most interactions are done through a remote button pad, which is mounted within reach of the left grip.

This pad has a +, -, left, right, select, and walk mode button. It boots up in the second view, showing your assist level with a swirling colour infographic. different parts of the swirl line fill based on how much power you exert as a rider and how much power the motor exerts, when active. You can arrow left or right to change screen readouts, and I especially like the ones towards the right, which show a range estimate based on remaining battery capacity and the last mile of riding. The display now loops around, so you can keep clicking right and end up back at the first screen, which shows a settings menu. This menu is very deep with options around units (mph vs. km/h), backlight brightness, and Bluetooth accessories including a Bosch eBike app. For now, Bluetooth seems to be reserved for use with aftermarket heart rate monitors and I have not fully tested it. I’m reviewing this product in North America, but Europe is a bit ahead with the release and apps. The two markets differ slightly and I’d recommend working with your local dealer to learn more and get help with software updates.

MOTOR BRAND:

Bosch Performance Line Speed MOTOR TYPE:

Mid-Mounted Geared Motor Learn more about Ebike motors MOTOR NOMINAL OUTPUT:

350 watts MOTOR PEAK OUTPUT:

575 watts MOTOR TORQUE:

63 Newton meters BATTERY BRAND:

Bosch PowerPack 500 BATTERY VOLTAGE:

36 volts BATTERY AMP HOURS:

13.4 ah BATTERY WATT HOURS:

482.4 wh BATTERY CHEMISTRY:

Lithium-ion CHARGE TIME:

5 hours ESTIMATED MIN RANGE:

25 miles (40 km)

BIKE MAGAZINE 15

E-BIKES

Okay, all things considered, the Kiox is an excellent display unit. It brings a lot of improvements over Purion and Intuvia but probably does contribute to a higher price point. For more information and pictures of the Kiox, I’ve created a guide in the EBR forums here.

complimented well with the new Kiox display

The Redux (officially pronounced re-ducks) is a bit of a “re-do” from last year. The previous model was a great bike, and some of these changes have made it even better.

The Bosch system is a little heavier, but keeping that weight in the middle with hydraulic brakes and shift detection makes for a more fun and responsive ride. Those looking for a cushy experience may have to add some additional comforts like a suspension seat post for example, or look at another bike entirely. But thats what makes the Redux so fun, it is unapologetically made to serve a grand purpose: to go fast on real streets. Those looking for a sports car like experience on a bicycle will love the high top speed, lightweight frame, ridged yet responsive feedback, smooth Bosch motor, and stop on a dime brakes. Having the other features like the thicker tires, rack, and intergraded lights help too. The 2 year warranty, optional Beeline service, Raleigh heritage, dealer network, and Bosch reliability really make those on the fence much more inclined to jump in and speed off.

The rigidity may not be for everyone, but it can provide rider feedback and increase responsiveness, similar to a high-end sports car with stiff suspension

As always, I welcome questions and feedback in the comment section below. Whether you own a previous version of the bike, have taken a test ride, or are brand new to the space, my goal is to provide an objective and honest resource. You can also join the EBR forums and share your own photos, videos, and review updates to help others! Have fun out there, and ride safe :)

Pros: The Redux is a great starter platform for sporty urban commuting, it has bottle cage bosses and mounting points for a rear rack As a Class 3 electric bike, you get motor assist up to 28 mph which is perfect for people who enjoy faster rides or have a tight schedule Relatively light weight at ~51.5lbs for the medium frame, considering it has a 500 watt hour battery pack, the triangle on the frame is very wide and open making it easier to lift and carry The Bosch Performance Line Speed motor is a welcome addition and is

Thru-axles keep the wheels stiff and support larger tires, this allows you and the motor to transfer energy more efficiently into the bike but also get some comfort on bumpy terrain

Minor detail, but I like the kickstand they chose because it stays out of the way and looks nice, it’s slightly fatter than other stands and holds the bike well Larger batteries mean longer charge wait times, so it’s great that the Redux iE comes with the fast Bosch 4 amp charger Some electric bicycles are notorious for dropping the chain while riding on rough terrain (my Uncle owns the Stromer ST1 Limited and it falls off all the time for him) but Raleigh has used a chain guide (two plates sandwiching the chainring to keep the chain on track) The pedals are large, stiff and have sandpaper grips on top to improve traction, as a guy with medium-sized feet I appreciate these over cheaper cage style platform pedals Three frame sizes to choose from to improve fit and ride comfort, I was on the medium frame for this review, 2 frame styles this year (high-step and a step-thru that is more of a mid-

ESTIMATED MAX RANGE:

65 miles (105 km) DISPLAY TYPE:

Bosch Kiox, Removable, Magnetically Attached, 1.9” Transmissive Backlit Color Display, Automatically Adapts to Lighting Conditions, Buttons: Power, Lights READOUTS:

Clock, Assist Level (Off/Gray, Eco/ Blue, Tour/Green, Sport/Yellow, Turbo/ Red), Light Icon, Batter (Percentage and Infographic), Units (MPH or KM/H), Current Speed, Power Meter Infographic (Shows Rider Input and Motor Input), Range Estimator, Trip Distance, Trip Time, Power (Watts), Cadence (RPM), Average Speed, Max Speed, Heart Rate, Double Battery Readout, Settings DISPLAY ACCESSORIES:

Independent Button Pad on Left, Buttons: Walk Mode, +, -, Left, Right, Select, 5 Volt 500mA Micro-USB Port on Lower Edge of Display, (Navigate to Settings with Left Arrow then Click Select Button) DRIVE MODE:

Advanced Pedal Assist (Measures Wheel Speed, Pedal Cadence and Pedal Torque, Over 1,000 Readings Per Second, Power Output Relative to Pedal Input: Eco 55% 40 Nm, Tour 120% 50 Nm, Sport 190% 55 Nm, Turbo 275% 63 Nm) TOP SPEED:

28 mph (45 kph)

16 BIKE MAGAZINE

E-BIKES

step) so consider stand-over height, Raleigh has a large dealer network in the US so you can probably find and test ride this bike easier than some other brands

distribution and a nicer look

Excellent weight distribution and a sweet appearance thanks to mid-drive motor and downtube-semi-integrated battery, they blend in perfectly with the overall look Hydraulic disc brakes offer good stopping power and the adjustable reach levers are good for large and small riders with different length fingers (or if you wear gloves)

Bosch Performance Line motors tend to produce more noise because of the power on offer and reduction gearing design, the 20 tooth chainring here will spin 2.5 times for each crank revolution and that produces a bit of drag if the bike isn’t powered on or you’re trying to pedal beyond the maximum supported ~28 mph top speed… it will not impact coasting beyond ~28mph

Pedalling with assist on a Bosch Performance Line motor feels very responsive and fluid, the motor controller measures rear wheel speed, pedal cadence, and pedal torque over 1,000 times per second, it’s one of the most advanced drive systems around

I really like this eBike, but you definitely pay for the Bosch drive systems, name brand Schwalbe tires, upgraded hydraulic disc brakes, and multiple sizes… it’s nice that you can buy Raleigh products from dealers and take test rides + get service over time (and that also contributes to the higher price)

Another feature of the Bosch Performance Line motors that I really appreciate is how they can support higher pedal rates without fading out, you can reach 120 RPM (pedal strokes per minute) and the motor is still there for you, this means you don’t have to shift gears as frequently if you prefer to spin instead

Its a shame we lost the suspension seat post and stem, definitely a more ridged ride this year, but others will appreciate that

You can charge the battery on or off the bike frame and it has a big loop-handle at the top for secure transport, the charging port on the bike is near the left crank arm which could collide but the proprietary Bosch plug is very sturdy compared to most other chargers so that’s less of a concern here, I like the rubber cap and leash system that Raleigh designed to cover the charging port, it was easier to seat and won’t get lost I really like the battery choice and mounting design here! They opted for the lightweight, less expensive Bosch PowerPack 500, but sunk it into the down-tube for lower weight

Cons:

The maximum weight on the rack is set for 10kg, it would have been great to see it bumped up to 22kg because the 10kg (22lbs) can be reached before you know it in some cases Keep an eye on the little rubber cap used to cover the magnetic charging interface at the top of the battery, this rubber protector doesn’t have a leash and can easily be set down and lost if you don’t keep an eye on it Not a big deal given all the capabilities of the Bosch Kiox display, but it should be noted that it while it can be removed, it cannot be adjusted for glare

BIKE MAGAZINE 17

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18 BIKE MAGAZINE

INDUSTRY INSIDE

THE NEW

FOREST

Discovering the lanes and woods the local horses walk, graze and sleep in.

Cristopher Horesham

BIKE MAGAZINE 19

TOURING

I’m sitting outside the pub on the roadside contentedly biting into a brie and ale chutney sandwich, when a horse saunters past. Then two more. Then a cow. The Londoners next to me stop playing with the fart apps on their phones and rear up in surprise.

I’m in the New Forest for the Wiggle New Forest sportive on Sunday, but this is a good excuse to spend the whole weekend exploring the quiet, smooth roads of the National Park on my trusty steed. I’m keen to discover this land of grazing ponies and find out how well bikes and horses mix – who will win in the battle of the riders?

Animals rule the road here. Grazing horses are everywhere, and it’s they – not drivers, cyclists or pedestrians, who have right of way and take priority above all else. This seems fair to me, after all they’ve been here since the Ice Age, whereas in the grand scheme of things the rest of us are all just visitors.

The pub serving the aforementioned brie sandwich is the East End Arms in the village of East Boldre. Today horses are shading themselves in the wooden shelter of the bus stop opposite the post office, and getting here involves weaving in and out of cattle feeding their calves in the middle of the road.

There’s time for some casual riding today before the sportive tomorrow – from experience, it will whizz by in a flash with no time to soak up the surroundings. We’ll all have our heads down, focusing on getting to the next flapjack, and shielding our eyes from the brightly coloured lycra encasing nearby sweaty bodies.

I’ve come a day early to immerse myself in the New Forest properly – to spend some time sleeping outside in nature, and quietly pootling around the tranquil lanes, seeking out spots to remember. The sun is shining, and I have parked up in Ivy Wood car park near Brockenhurst, where a sign politely asks visitors to refrain from picking more than 1.5kg of mushrooms.

I don’t think my pockets would fit that many mushrooms in anyway so I decide to leave the spores to do their thing and get on the road.

My most recent memory of the New Forest was on an overnight ride from Guildford to Christchurch on the summer solstice. The scenery couldn’t have looked more different then,

New Forest National Park The New Forest was designated a national park in 2005 to give this outstanding landscape the highest level of protection and to preserve it for the nation to enjoy for generations to come.

Make the most of cycling in the New Forest by trying the cycle routes. The National Park has many quiet country lanes, perfect for cycling, as well as over 100 miles of way-marked cycle tracks across the Crown Lands of the Forest.

It’s easy to hop off a train and go for a cycle ride. Make sure you take care of yourself and the environment by following the New Forest Cycling Code.

Be considerate Ride positively and well clear of uneven road edges but with consideration for other roadusers. To allow vehicles to overtake safely, leave gaps for them to pull into and move into single file when necessary and safe to do so.

Never ride more than two abreast Off road, cycle only on the waymarked network of Forestry Commission tracks, bridleways, byways, restricted byways and designated routes Use the map to plan your route, check for route closures, and try to be off Forest tracks by sunset Be polite to other cyclists, motorists, pedestrians and residents When passing people and animals, use your bell or call out a warning and allow them plenty of room. Be prepared to stop if necessary Do not drop litter or feed the animals; human food and litter are a danger to them Close gates behind you so the animals don’t stray Respect the quiet of the Forest.

Be safe Pass animals slowly and to one side if possible Take extra care near horse riders; a kick or fall from a horse could be fatal. Be prepared to stop.

Use your bell or call out a friendly warning well in advance. When it is safe, pass wide and at walking pace, to one side only. Look out for any reaction from the horse

Whiteparish Newton

20 BIKE MAGAZINE

TOURING

Downton

Wick

Redlynch A36

Woodfalls

emerging into the misty park at sunrise, the forest provided an eerie and surreal otherworldy morning awakening. This time the sun fills the sky with light and my back with warmth.

Breamore

Roman Villa

Rockbourne

Woodgreen

Breamore House

B3080

1

I smear on suncream and fill my tyres with air in the shady seclusion of the car park.

Heading out and turning right onto the main road, all seems surprisingly quiet. There’s a bit of an incline to start but the forest is peaceful and welcoming and before long the terrain flattens out. Signs for off-road trails are dotted along the way, and the occasional bike crosses in the distance ahead of me.

It’s not long before the road opens up onto the gorse-scattered heathland that my mind associates most with the New Forest, and which confused me greatly on my first visit.

Why is a vast area of shrubbery called the New Forest? I’ve since discovered there are more trees than I initially thought. The sunshine makes this scenery magical and wonderful, very different from the misty morning moonscape it was the last time I saw it. Birdsong is in full flow, and the hills of the South Downs are visible on the blurred horizon.

Hamptworth

A338

Nomansland

3

B3078

B3078

Bra 17

Godshill Sandy Balls Holiday Centre

20

Eyeworth Pond

Fordingbridge

16

B3078

14 23

Fritham 4

B3078

26

Janesmoor Fritham

33

Abbotswell

Alderholt

31

Cadman’s Pool

Hyde New Forest Water Park

Longbeech

36 41

56 52

A31

Ocknell

50

58 Milkham

Ibsley

63 Appleslade

A338

46

61

105

101 143

48

Seasonal Bolderwood

107 71 Linford

To my surprise, there are signs around the area for a cycling event tomorrow – my understanding was that the sportive route was further to the west and north. Human Race vans are putting up the signs and it transpires that there is another event too tomorrow in the forest – the Macmillan Cycletta, part of a women-only series of rides which is going from strength to strength.

Something tells me many of these ‘cycling event’ signs stay put all through the summer, with organised rides happening frequently in this perfect cycling terrain.

I want to try out a route from Matt Carroll’s ‘Escape Routes’ book – a gift given to me by my dad a couple of years ago which I have enjoyed perusing but never managed to actually escape with. This particular local route starts at the East End Arms – which is apparently owned by Dire Straights’ bassist John Illsley. The tables at the front start off promisingly full of cyclists – a group of mountain bikers and a couple on what look like folding electric bikes. Sadly they’ve all gone by the time I come back out after ordering food – although the horses continue to pass nonchalantly.

135

Hangersley

There are blackberries in abundance here, and I wish I’d brought a container to put some in to take home and make a crumble or a cake – perhaps a New Forest Gateau. I continue along to Hatchett Pond, which is empty and just waking up despite it being nearly midday. Later in the afternoon, the area is crowded with cars, families with dogs wander around, and an ice cream van tempts passers-by to 99s. I succumb.

128

Linford

109

Anderwood

Ringwood

Moors Valley Country Park

110

A31

126

Hightown Woods Corner

Crow

A31

118

116

112

Avon Heath

Burley

Matchams 156

A338

A35

New Forest Cider

Wilverley Plai Burbush

161

B3347

Thorney Hill Holmsley

181

Holmsley Walk

Avon

191

223

172 163

2

229 Wilverley

175 Avon Tyyrell Activity Centre

Wootton Bridge

Ripley

Bransgore Sopley

Bashley Sammy Miller Museum

Hurn A338

Hoburne Bashley

B3055

Waterditch

B3347 B3073

A30

60

A338

New Milton Hinton Admiral

Burton

Christchurch Station

Highcliffe

B3058

A35

CHRISTCHURCH BOURNEMOUTH Note: Cycling on seafront has seasonal restrictions

Highcliffe Castle + Visitor Centre

Mudeford

Hengistbury Head

Barton-on-Sea

A27

BIKE MAGAZINE 21

The New Forest National Park

Cycle Routes

Plaitford

Please remember to stay on the waymarked routes when cycling off-road on the New Forest Crown Lands

West Wellow Landford

KLEY

ROAD

A3090

SW AY R

OA

A36

D

Canada

BROO

Half Moon Common Ower Paultons Park

M27

J2

amshaw

J3

M271

B3079

Newbridge

J1 A31

Brook

Calmore Winsor

B3078

A326

SOUTHAMPTON

Totton

J1

Rufus Stone

A36

Cadnam

Redbridge

A326

Bartley

h

Southampton Central Station

Eling Tide Mill

349

Millbrook

Eling 356

A337

Minstead

367

A35 353

94

New Forest Wildlife Park

385 382 363

Acres Down

A326

Deerleap

373

370

Marchwood

Longdown Activity Farm

Ashurst

Ashurst

148

Lyndhurst

Hythe

376

151

Ferry + Pier Railway

Matley

153

268

Millyford Bridge

B3056

294

259 155

Denny Wood

Bank

Reptile Centre

270

Brock Hill

257

281

271

A337

Marchwood Inclosure

Dibden Purlieu

Beaulieu Road 296

285

274

A326

250

272

287

Blackwater

301

Standing Hat 279

Ober Corner

Holland Wood

B3054 B3056

305

National Motor Museum

292

388

332

Beachern Wood

342 Roundhill Stockley

Brockenhurst

Fawley

Holbury

326 308

237

Hardley

324

290

Calshot Activities Centre + Calshot Castle

Rans Wood

Beaulieu

396

Blackfield

344 B3055 Hawkhill

in

Calshot

Hatchet Pond

232

Mount Pleasant

195

317

B3053

Exbury Gardens + Steam Railway

321

Langley

217

Longslade Bottom

Beaulieu Heath

Sandy Down

Setthorns

East Boldre Beaulieu Heath

Exbury

B3054

Sway

Bucklers Hard

200

Pilley

A337

B3055

Boldre

Lepe Country Park

Sowley Pond

Hordle

Lymington

Everton

Route continues to Yarmouth, Isle of Wight via passenger ferry

A337

Downton

B3058

SCALE 1:70,000 (approx)

Milford-on-Sea

Keyhaven

0 km 0 miles

1

2 1

3

4 2

5 3

© Forestry Commission. All Rights Reserved

6 4

N

22 BIKE MAGAZINE

TOURING

BIKE MAGAZINE 23

TOURING

In the heart of Escape Routes territory now, I spread out my OS Explorer map on the table alongside the book, happily planning my own version of Matt Carroll’s route with a slight detour to Beaulieu, and factoring in a short cut back to Ivy Hill car park.

The feeling of sunshine on my back is reassuring and I set off, following the route in the book, although the book didn’t mention squeezing yourself through a small gap between horses at the first junction. True to the book though, there is a lovely tithe barn on the left along this road, and just before this I am stopped in my tracks by the view of a large ship on the River Beaulieu off to the right. Having forgotten that we were so close to the sea, this came as a surprise and I was pleased to see a sign educating me about the history of this ship-building and launch area for warships.

Bucklers Hard is a bit further along with beautiful views, a historical village and museum providing more information about this maritime history, with river trips available.

There’s a stone seat perfect for resting cycling legs just outside the village, and I indulge for a few moments then continue on, ignoring Matt Carroll’s left turn (I have already explored East Boldre) and opting instead to go to Beaulieu. Retrospectively this decision was a bad one – after admiring the outside of the National Motor Museum and sitting by a pond with donkeys, I discover the main road out of Beaulieu is the busiest yet, and there’s a hill too. But it’s not long before the roads get quieter again, and there’s that pungent sweet smell of horses and gassy vintage camper vans passing me by as the lane snakes back through shrubs, forest and dappled sunshine clearings to Ivy Wood.

My next mission is to find a suitable spot to camp wild. I’m aiming for a year of ‘microadventures’, inspired

by Alastair Humphries, whose book of the same name is another that sits alongside Matt Carroll’s on my favourite shelf. Bivvying under the stars should still be fairly comfortable at this time of year, and my friend Tom, who is arriving at Brockenhurst tonight, is up for adventure. The key is to identify a spot whilst it’s still light, so you know roughly what you’re going to wake up to. Back at the car park, it transpires that the woods have beautiful clearings just out of view of the main road with a river running through the bottom, perfect for a morning wild swim/paddle.

I meet Tom off the train, and we go to

the pub to eat hot food and soak up warmth for the night under the stars ahead. We talk about bikes, horses and the plan and I describe the spot I’ve identified. I start to scare myself as we discuss things that might happen. What if a car pulls into the car park? What if we get trampled by angry horses, shouted at by park rangers. What if it all goes Blair Witch project? He offers me his warm socks and I calm down.

Luckily the clearing still feels good in the dark. Tom’s tent goes up, my bivvy bag goes down next to it. Cosy in three layers of clothes, I fall asleep looking at the stars, framed by fronds of high leaves. The trees are oak and this means acorns fall off occasionally landing on me. Owls screech, creatures scurry, and horses bray. One comes so close I can hear it’s breath as it explores the clearing around us.

My mind, tense in the dark, relaxes as the morning dawns, and by the time I have the stove on making a cup of tea I’m the happiest person alive. And I’m about to embark on a 42 mile sportive – life could not be better.

After a breakfast of porridge, fruit and nuts, we’re sleepily in the car on the way to Matcham’s Leisure Park, where the Wiggle New Forest Sportive begins – we’re doing the ‘short’ route.

Time is a bit tight, but there is just enough time to register, change from camping clothes to cycling attire (in my case behind a pile of rubble in the car park), stick numbers on our bikes, load pockets with bananas, cereal bars and sweets and get to the start line before the 9.45am cut-off.

Everywhere is bright lycra, vibrant smiles and shiny energy bars and drinks, a shock to the eyes after a night of darkness and trees. Excited people with energy exuding from their pores mill around, filled with anticipation of the ride ahead and sharing it with others.

The drive to the venue had taken in the final stretch we’d be cycling, so we’d seen that the route had good signage and was well-planned and manned. Slightly sleepy-looking marshals were positioned before any tricky junctions and managed to summon up enough energy to wave flags at vehicles and warn riders loudly of the impending dangers.

Some even looked like they were still enjoying themselves. The first hour or so was beautifully flat, easing the legs into the ride nicely. The scenery was different than yesterdays, if equally idyllic. We zoomed down lovely, quiet lanes with lots of hedgerows, skirting

24 BIKE MAGAZINE

TOURING

around and going through villages such as Kingston and Ringwood, and Fordingbridge, where riders were instructed to thin out to single file.

Out of the corner of my squinting eye (I had not expected to need sunglasses at this time of year) I spotted signs along the way for such tempting tourist attractions as a heavy horse museum and an owl sanctuary. I made a mental note to visit these in some future life.

The feed station appeared much faster than expected, with water, flapjacks, banana, jelly beans and a free PowerBar energy bar to take for later. The additional and less traditional snack available was pistachios - not just any pistachios but American Pistachios, the official snack of Mark Cavendish. I am assuming this must mean the official bar snack of Mark Cavendish.

Don’t get me wrong, I have practical experience of on-bike food assembly whilst touring (camembert baguettes mainly) but you really don’t want to be shelling pistachio nuts whilst riding a sportive. Wisely, most people seemed to leave them until the end which resulted in finishing the sportive and stepping onto a pistachio shell carpet – a fun and crunchy alternative to the red carpet, the sound of cleats on shells reverberating around the finish area.

When not worn on nutshell carpets, cleated bike shoes often sound to me like ponies approaching, which cleverly brings me back to my original equine observations. In the middle of the dilapidated go-karting track that marks the sportive start/ finish is an untethered grazing pony. Whether or not she notices the thousands of man-made steeds around her is unclear – but without doubt she knows that the men and women gripping onto them have just ridden their socks off and enjoyed whizzing through land she and her ancestors have munched on for generations.

It seems that horses and bikes mix together perfectly well in the New Forest, sharing not only the lanes and junctions but a quiet and mutual respect for the serene surroundings, and an understanding of what it means to experience it with all your senses, with your own freedom of movement, in your own time. I’m going to miss the New Forest ponies wandering about when I head back to my native Surrey, where horses are securely encased in stables and privately owned pastures.

BIKE MAGAZINE 25

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26 BIKE MAGAZINE

CYCLING MIRROR

THE MIRROR

THAT CAN SAVE YOUR LIFE Jamais Contente (Never Happy): the name of the car that, way back in 1899, was the first to go at 100 km/h. This name could also describe Carlo Dondo (1942): he is never entirely satisfied with his creations; his first thoughts are how he can improve them and simultaneously invent something new and useful.

Being an inventor is not a job but a state of mind, a kind of virus that gets into your bloodstream as a child and that Carlo soon learned to recognise and take advantage of amid the one thousand and one necessities and surprises of everyday life. Finding in Switzerland a more receptive and productive base than in Italy, which he left when he was just sixteen years old.

The idea of the drop bar mirrors came from a traumatic experience of Carlo Dondo after two serious accidents on his custom made racing bike. Two accidents that could have been avoided if only he hadn’t had to turn around to check the traffic behind him. His innate passion for cycling urged him to find a solution suitable for all road bike enthusiasts.

N SAVE YOUR LIFE

ack in ribe ons; sly

hat d to one a hen

ce of ing

The license plate device Carlo invented in 1984, for which he won his first Silver and Gold medals in Geneva and Brussels, was already a consolidated business at the end of the last millennium, so much so that a few years after selling his business to a third party he started to focus on and improve every aspect of the product range that embodies his entrepreneurial philosophy: the Sprintech® Racing drop bar mirror for racing bicycles and the Sprintech® City for MTB were born. Just as had happened for the license plate device, when the drop bar mirrors were presented at the Innovation Exhibition in Martigny in Switzerland in 1996 they won the second prize for Innovation and in 2012 the Gold Medal at the

s all

n his first Silver and Gold medals in Geneva and ast millennium, so much so that a few years

International Invention Exhibitions in Brussels and Geneva.

Today the Sprintech® mirrors have earned the reputation among cyclists as the best in the industry. When other brands rattle and spin out of position, Sprintech® mirrors hold true. Riders value the superior quality of these products thanks to their sleek design and ease of fitting. Last but not least, the mirrors are unobtrusive, adjustable and secure positioning when riding over cobbles or bumps. Once used, you will wonder how you navigated the roads without a mirror!

SEEING WELL is only the first half of safety. The second is BEING SEEN. Carlo understood this early on and, between one ride and another, he began to reflect on this. Something that would ALWAYS be visible while riding, especially for the biggest threat to cyclists: the car behind them.

As a result SPRINTECH® VISION 360° was created, uniting reflective power and movement.

From tests carried out the perception distance at a speed of 50 km/h at dusk/darkness goes from 25 METRES without Vision 360°, to a staggering 150 METRES with two Vision reflectors affixed to the back wheel’s spokes. This means that the cyclist is visible 9 seconds earlier. This is more than enough time for car drivers to adjust their speed and avoid any danger to the cyclist. Recognition for the innovation and its usefulness again came from the panel at the Brussels International Exhibition in 2012 where SPRINTECH® VISION 360° won the Gold medal.

The SPRINTECH® products are made in Switzerland. More information can be found on www.sprintech.eu

BIKE BIKE MAGAZINE MAGAZINE 27 21

BICYCLE SAFETY ACCESSORIES

WWW.SJSCYCLES.COM When it comes to safety and dependability, there is one choice that has proven to stand out above the rest, SPRINTECH, made in Switzerland. Easy to install and instinctive to use. Unobtrusive, adjustable and light, only 28grams including the mounting plug.

B Y

Sprintech® Racing and Sprintech® City mirrors have AWARD W earned the reputation among cyclists as the best in the industry. When other brands rattle and spin out SPRINTECH® R ® bar mirror for r of position, Sprintech mirrors holdRACING true.

SPRINTECH® drop bar mirror

AWARD WINNING

When it comes to safety and dependability, there is one choice that has proven to stand out above the rest, SPRINTECH, made in Switzerland. Easy to install and instinctive to use. Unobtrusive, adjustable and light, only 28grams including the mounting plug.

CD PROJECT SARL – C.P. 224 – 3960 SIERRE – SWITZERLAND PHONE +39 338 14 55 199 FAX +41(0)27 455 90 60

and SPRINTEC city bikes and invented and p the Innovation invented andfrom presented at the Innovation The idea of the drop bar mirrors came two in Martigny, S traumatic experiencesExhibition of Carlo Dondo.

Two in 1996 where in Martigny, Switzerland serious accidents on his tailor made racing bike. the prize for I in have 1996 where they won the prize for and in 2012 at t Two accidents that could been avoided if only he hadn’t had to Innovation turn his head to check and in 2012 at the BrusselsInternational E the traffic behind him. His innate passion for Belgium wher International Exhibition in Belgium where the gold m bicycles urges him to find a solution suitable for all racing bicycle enthusiasts him.the gold medal. they like won

for racing bikes and SPRINTECH®

SPRINTECH® RACING and SPRINTECH® CITY are made in Europe.

CITYoffor city bikes and74MTB were They are all original creations Carlo Dondo, cyclist, years old.

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INFO@SPRINTECH.EU

28 BIKE MAGAZINE

7 REASONS YOU SHOULD CYCLE IN

WINCHESTER

BIKE MAGAZINE 29

WINCHESTER

This month we head to Winchester, a city not only steeped in centuries of interesting history but also with an abundance of opportunities to hop aboard the bicycle 1 Situated on the western edge of the South Downs, it’s the perfect vantage point from which to conduct sorties into the wilderness. Find a suitable little coffee shop (of which there are many) and plot a route into the Downs.

2 For cycle tourers, the city is steeped wall-to-wall in history - and even some of the walls are Roman. Take time out to visit the cathedral and the Great Hall, home of King Arthur’s legendary round table.

Written by Simon Mendell

3 So, you do like to be beside the seaside? Well, that’s handy.

Winchester is a mere 15-mile pedal to the coast. Fish and chips on the beach? With one of those dodgy impractical wooden forks? Pas de problem!

4 For those who prefer a clattering rear mech and coming away from a ride covered in filth, your luck is most certainly in. For the city hosts the starting- (or finishing-) point of the South Downs Way - one of the great British off-road trips, spanning the 100-mile width of the Downs from Winchester to Eastbourne.

5 The New Forest is just down the road. Winchester is certainly proving to be the epicentre of all things cycling, and this National Park, which includes bountiful swathes of heath and pasture land, somewhat bolsters the notion.

6 Family outing? Bespoke Biking of Winchester hire out bikes and conduct cycle tour trips around the city and beyond. Avoid widowing your loved ones to two-wheels and involve the whole brood.

7 Encompassed by greenery it’s hard to believe Winchester is just over an hour away from London - but it is. Sling your bike on the train and enjoy the journey down to England’s erstwhile capital city.

Hampshire - unassuming home to some of the best bucolic jaunts on a bicycle the UK has to offer. Including the South Downs and New Forest National Parks (which together cover 45 per cent of the county), and

bordered to the south by the English Channel, you are rarely without spectacular views in Hants.

We leave Winchester, the county town, and pedal due east with a view to getting as involved with the South Downs as our legs will allow. Yes, the option of a comparatively sedate ride through the flatlands of the New Forest wasn’t without its allure, but after double-helpings at breakfast it is mused that the occasional climb should be negotiated today, lest we fail to burn off those extra rashers of bacon.

Out of the inner-city maelstrom, which, for a town so inundated with tourism, is fairly simple work, the road is presently thick with greenery on this late summer morning, and a brisk tack towards Morestead begins. With eventual designs of a Meon Valley traversal today, it might be pragmatic to leave something in the legs for the hillier stretches - but, for now, the 360 degree sweeping vistas alone are reason enough to be riding a bicycle... blissful!

Upon reaching Corhampton and the furthest easterly point of the route, we begin our meander, on lengths of tarmac delightfully free of traffic, along the Meon Valley. Fully immersed in the Downs now and totally appreciative of the rural arena in which we are enveloped, the climbing starts in earnest, and although the road up to Woodlands is never what you’d consider a real challenge, it certainly serves to remind the thighs what they’re here for.

Now heading north-west, we note that Arlesford appears a likely place to stop for a spot of carb-loading.

This little town is the blueprint of the picture-perfect British backwater settlement. The high street is laced with a string of charismatic shops and cottages, and a number of eateries and pubs which, in keeping with town’s oldworld charm, brag grade two listing. Opting for a sandwich amid the unrivalled ambiance at the Horse and Groom, Arlesford is departed feeling suitably replenished and the big push back to Winchester along the gently undulating B3047 begins.

Once back in town, with a solid 30-miles of riding in the bag, it would almost be inexcusable not to repair immediately to the nearest hostelry to blow the froth from a frosty glass of beer or two, and bask both in a good day’s work and the history of this quaint city in the heart of Hampshire.

30 BIKE MAGAZINE

BIKE MAGAZINE 31

www.whyte.bike

The G-170 S

32 BIKE MAGAZINE

FILM REVIEW

JANAPAR Love, on a Bike

by Alice Haylett Bryan Film Studies Lecturer at King’s College London

When involved in any sort of unsupported wilderness event or exploration you may be lucky enough to stumble across some ‘trail magic’, an offering of food or water from a stranger that gives you that extra push to keep going. We have all even experienced it once or twice on one of those rides where for whatever reason you don’t take enough food or drink and some sympathetic passer-by tosses you a chocolate bar as you bonk on the side of the road. It is these moments of kindness that restore your faith in humanity.

A chocolate bar, a bottle of water, a beer, a free ride across Yemen in a Jeep full of armed police with a machine gun mounted on the roof… well maybe the last one was just Tom Allen. Arriving via a cattle transport ship to one of the most dangerous countries in the world, with little knowledge of what to expect and no map, adventure cyclist Allen was informed that he would have to be escorted by an armed guard to the next safe zone. Six policemen proceeded to transport the Englishman and his bike across a barren landscape to an idyllic but near-deserted beach.

On reading Allen’s blog about his travels (www.tomsbiketrip.com) it appears that these guards seemed more intent on endangering the life of the man they were being paid to protect than keeping him safe. If Allen wished to embrace uncertainty,

he was definitely finding it here.

Janapar: Love, on a Bike (available to stream from www.janapar.com) starts off as a documentary about the freedom of exploring the world by bike, but ends as a love story when Allen meets an Iranian-Armenian girl called Tenny and is forced to chose between continuing his dream expedition or returning to the arms of his girlfriend. But what remains long past watching this film is not just the love of a young couple, but the small acts of kindness from the people that they meet along the way.

The Armenian shepherd who wants to be the best man at their wedding, the young men in Turkey who share their beer and meat with Allen and his friend Andy on a motorway layby, and the villagers in Northern Sudan who have an unusual method for curing diarrhea.

Allen’s enthusiasm for adventure is infectious, and although his trip is by no means easy, it will still make you want to dust off your panniers and go exploring. It is also a powerful reminder that the world is populated by good, friendly people willing to share what little they have with a stranger on the side of the road.

Janapar, which means ‘journey’ in Armenian, is more than just a bike trip. It is the story of man searching, and what he encounters changes his own life and touches the lives of others. It can’t fail to move anyone watching.

Directed by James Newton Newton Films 2013 79 mins Certificate 15

BIKE MAGAZINE 33

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34 BIKE MAGAZINE

Written by Sarah Roe

CYCLING AROUND

STOKE China Cycle Trail From the moment we step out of Stoke on Trent railway station there are constant reminders that this is the home of china. Wheeling our bikes out of the station we are greeted by an imposing bronze statue of dapper 18th century ceramicist Josiah Wedgwood, who helped to make Stoke an industrial centre for pottery.

BIKE MAGAZINE 35

TOURING

The elegant hotel and warm brick buildings in the Jacobean-style square that first greet railway passengers were constructed to service a rapidly expanding potteries industry. I’m here to try out the new China Cycle Trail developed by Sustrans, which follows some of this rich history, and look for inspiration for a Valentine’s Day present from a vibrant array of talented ceramicists still turning and decorating pots in workshops and factories along the eight-mile route.

A shiny new cycle hub at the station is a reassuring sign that this is also a place that is accustomed to people on bikes. Stoke is home to several wellknown bicycle businesses including Swinnerton, Brian Rourke, George Longstaff and Pro-Vision, and there are several cycle routes in and around the city.

I’ve met up with Sustrans’ Schools officer Stephen Dyster, who works to get more children cycling in Stoke and leads rides occasional bike rides along the China Cycle Trail.

We pedal off down the main road in the direction of Hanley [route 555], through the wrought iron gates of peaceful Hanley park. Geese and ducks glide across the lake and young couples stroll leisurely through a tree-lined walk. Within minutes we turn on to the Caldon canal and cruise steadily along, greeting fellow bike riders and walkers along the way.

The circular trail is designed to be an easy route, which is mainly trafficfree, so it’s great for a family day out or for reluctant riders. There are lots of opportunities for tea and cake, shopping and museums.

The canals round here are inextricably linked with the history of the potteries.

Josiah Wedgwood cut the first sod of the Trent and Mersey Canal in 1777 at Middleport, and you don’t have to travel far along the water course before you come across the first chance for a history lesson. The Etruria Industrial Museum is at the junction of the Trent and Mersey and the Caldon canals, and is the only steam driven potters’ mill in the world.

The Museum has exhibits relating to industrial heritage, with occasional steam-up days. Etruria was once a thriving industrial centre, where Wedgwood set up his factory village, named after the artistic Italian district of Etruria. The museum is only open for events or special appointments, so we don’t stop this time, and carry on our ride along the canal.

It’s not long before the first bottle

oven looms into sight. The distinctive beehive shape of the industrial kilns which pepper this landscape signals our arrival into Burslem, known as the heart of the potteries. Wedgwood also set up his first pottery here to manufacture his now internationally famous Jasperware and other styles, before moving to Etruria and Barlaston.

We wheel our bikes over the canal bridge to Middleport Pottery, the home of Burleigh, which is still produced on site. The factory almost closed down in 2011, but thanks to a £9million grant from the Princes Regeneration Trust, continues to produce ceramics and has become a vibrant visitor attraction too. There are regular tours of the factory floor, where you can watch pots being crafted in the same skilled 19th century methods that were used when the potteries were in their heyday, step inside the bottle oven where thousands of pots were fired, or relax in a stylish café in the old packing house, which overlooks the canal.

It’s a warren of intriguing Dickensianstyle buildings and cobbled streets, where every window is a glimpse into part of the production process: neat stacks of pot moulds, the broadbottom saggars which were used to protect pots as they were fired, or rows of gleaming tea sets and plates.

Individual craftspeople also have workshops in the complex and there are regular activities and events.

We could have wandered round Middleport for a long time, and the sunny terrace of the café was particularly appealing, but we had a tight schedule to visit other potteries, so it was back on the bikes and the familiar terrain of the canal. We make a slight detour to Westport Lake, a lovely picnic spot with a visitor centre.

As the wildfowl chatter to each other on the water it’s difficult to imagine that this was once a dump for waste pottery and an eyesore.

Back on the main route Stephen leads us away from the canal at the top of our circular route. We cross over to an old railway line which once shunted high grade limestone to the potteries.

The path is now part of national cycle route 5, and travels back through Burslem.

As we coast along the pleasant tree-lined path we pass more bottle ovens, signalling past factories, Stephen gives me an idea of the scale of the potteries: “There were once thousands of these ovens in Stoke

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on Trent, which produced a thick yellow smoke, so the place was known as Smoke on Trent.”

There is a café and information point for Royal Stafford just before Burslem Park and nearby Barewall Gallery is well worth a stop to browse the collection of contemporary art, ceramics and glass, with some unusual craft gift opportunities.

The China Trail continues on to Central Forest Park, the landscaped site of the former Hanley Deep Pit, via the Moorcroft Heritage Visitor Centre.

It’s possible to tour the old Moorcroft factory and get close to original, collectable pieces of Moorcroft pottery, renowned throughout the world for their vibrant glazes and designs. The bottle oven is currently being restored, and there is also a gift shop and cafe.

Next the trail takes us back on the road into Hanley, Stoke-on-Trent’s city centre, for the final leg of the journey.

The nearby Dudson Museum is also a working pottery dating back 200 years, with tours, including another chance to step inside a bottle oven (grade II listed), as well as a cafe and shop.

The Potteries Museum and Art gallery boasts one of the world’s finest collections of Staffordshire ceramics, as well as decorative arts, natural history, and of course a cafe for hungry cyclists. There’s even a secret garden.

Renowned local ceramic artist Anita Harris also has an outlet in the intu Potteries Shopping Centre for more gift opportunities.

We make a slight detour off the route to the Emma Bridgewater factory, housed on another characterful old Victorian site on the banks of the Caldon Canal. The company’s instantlyrecognisable nature-inspired designs are popular around the world, and the shop and cafe have a constant stream of pottery fans. It seems only right to stop for tea and a sandwich. I sit in a sunny courtyard and watch the factory workers applying colourful glazes with delicate brush strokes in the building opposite.

The old Spode factory site, where Josiah Spode first built up his empire, fittingly marks both the end and the beginning of the circular China Trail, in Stoke town centre. The factory closed a few years ago but the vast factory floor has been beautifully restored into the China Hall, sometimes used for exhibitions and events. From 26 September to 8 November 2018 it hosted the British Ceramics Biennial, showcasing over 30 new and established artists to challenge traditional perceptions of

pottery. There’s a visitor centre at Spode and the site has recently been awarded £700,000 to transform empty factory buildings into artists’ studios.

As I leave the exhibition hall I notice a quote on the wall from Josiah Wedgwood, which seems like a fitting epitaph to the hard work over centuries of the skilled artisans and engineers represented along today’s China Cycle Trail: “Beautiful forms and compositions are not made by chance.”

Ceramic cyclists The distinctive beehive shapes of Stoke’s bottle ovens form the backdrop for a vibrant painted scene of a racing cyclist on unique pieces created by local ceramicist Anita Harris. She merged the history of the potteries with cycling to commemorate the Tour of Britain on two occasions the tour passed through the city. “I wanted people to instantly recognise it as Stoke, so I put bottle ovens on the cycle route,” she explains. In 2013 the local councillor presented her hand-painted vase to Sir Bradley Wiggins, and he went on to become the leader of the race. “It’s great to think that Sir Bradley has got one of my pieces in his living room,” she smiles.

Anita was head designer at Poole Pottery for 10 years and now has her own workshop four miles outside Stoke. She specialises in a more complex technique known as ‘reactive glazes’, a type of chemistry experiment, where the artist has little idea how the colours of the product will turn out in the end. Each piece is hand painted and depending on the complexity can take over a week to complete, so the workshop only produces just a few hundred items a year. “The glazes we use bear no resemblance to the colours of the finished pieces, so we never know what we’re going to get. We trickle the glazes, layer them up or etch.

We can outline with gold, create special colours and depths and often use lustres. Sometimes we fire a piece four or five times before we finish it.”

Anita says there are often items in the shop which have a cycling theme and the company can personalise anything for a special event or anniversary.

Stoke has typically been a supporter of cycling. “There’s always a good turn-out in Stoke to watch the cycling and there are a lot of cyclists in the city. My son cycles a lot and cycles along the China Trail. It’s a way of seeing parts of the city that you don’t normally get to see and keep fit. ”

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Photo credits: David Sherrington, Matt Wright, Bill Kenny, Alexis Zafiropoulos, Jon Fieldhouse

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COAST TO COAST Making the Most of The Coast to Coast Alexis Zafiropoulos and four mates make a five-day, 171.3 mile ‘bike-packing’ adventure out of Sustrans’ excellent C2C trail from Whitehaven to Tynemouth with plenty of diversions, luxury items, rain and whimsy enroute.

DAY 1 (13.08.2015) Whitehaven-Thornthwaite 5a.m. and London was still resolutely snoozing and about as placid and peaceful as it gets. Moderate to heavy whisky consumption the night before with rider Bill Kenny made for a fuzzy head compounded by a lack of sleep from giddy excitement about our impending ‘micro-adventure’. I also had just about recovered from shellfish poisoning (never force open a closed mussel!) so was not really in A1 physical shape but I knew that if managed correctly the next five days of exercise, fresh air and good food, it would restore body and soul.

continued

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On our heavily laden bicycles (I chose my solid friend Thorn Sherpa, Bill on his shiny Dawes Galaxy) we snaked through near empty Hackney streets to rendezvous point Euston station where we met Jon Fieldhouse (riding a fine glitter-green build of his own touring bike brand ‘LPY’), Matt Wright (also on an LPY rig albeit with fatter, off road tyres) and David Sherrington (aboard his custom Condor tourer also known as ‘Luscious Lugs’). Our racks strained under the weight of panniers stuffed with cooking gear, clothes, tinned fish, tents, tools, cameras, a drone (yes that’s right a drone) and a coconut. As we board the 06.45 Virgin Pendolino Euston-Carlisle the guard jokes “Are you sure you have enough stuff?” and the answer as always is no.

Four pendulous hours later and we are in Carlisle, eat a massive fry up (Dave has a pint) and we transfer to a Northern Rail service to our official ride start point Whitehaven.

Another rider obliges and takes the mandatory photo of riders and bikes next to the C2C sign with back wheels dipped in the Irish Sea. Its 2pm, hot, sunny with a tasty tailwind and the beautiful former railway path gradually rises urging us eastwards into the stunning Lake District. We pass through tiny sheep farming hamlets, signs warning of red squirrels and weave around the shores of small pine-forestshrouded, sparkly lakes and the inclines increase to up to 20% at times. ‘Keep hydrated’ I tell myself as I’m prone to overheating and end up splashing around in a mountain stream like an animal to cool off.

Weather report from the girlfriend confirms that the monsoon like rains are moving north so we call ahead to book pitches on Lanefoot Farm campsite in Thorntwaite. The fast dry fire roads of Whinlatter Forest are the perfect end to our first 25 miles of riding. We pitch up at the excellent site, freshen-up, ride to a local pub where the local ale goes down oh so well.

Day 2 (14.08.2015) ThornthwaitePatterdale Woken early by rain pattering on my Vaude tent’s roof, I climb out into mud that wasn’t there the night before and I’m surrounded by friendly sheep who have escaped from a nearby field. I feel a long way from my Medway home with misty rain clouds hugging the steep hillsides.

I sense the familiar dull ache of muscle sets re-awoken, not used since the Dunwich Dynamo a couple of months earlier. I could moan about the assault of midges, the lumpy ground, the undergeared state of my bike’s drivetrain and the atrocious weather, but an over-riding sense of purpose and ‘joie de vivre’ takes over particularly when presented with a tasty tent-cooked bacon buttie…thanks David you ledge.

So a COBRA style meeting is called and we decide to avoid pitching sodden tents in a wet campsite, instead booking a room in YHA Patterdale. This slight detour off the C2C route would give us the chance to ride along the banks of Ullswater Lake and have a place to dry our gear and sleep in warm dry beds.

Luxury dogs!

We set out. A meagre 20 miles lay ahead but 20 million raindrops stood between

us and a hot shower. I fully appreciate now why the Lake District has lakes.

After only eight miles a very welcome break is had in the ‘Saddleback Café’ in Keswick where they obviously are used to serving great food and drink to C2C riders and walkers. We eat cake, get caffeinated whilst giggling at classic satirical cycling book ‘The Rules’ and gear fan David gets waterproof socks from the bike shop next door.

The run out of Keswick is one of the finest sections of bike friendly infrastructure I have experienced. Again Sustrans have done a great job of recycling a disused railway line into an efficient multi-user path. Clear signage, bridges and shelters are provided en route. We pass a derelict station and cross a bridge over an angry, swollen River Greta and are treated to Jurrasic Park style vistas minus the dinos. So

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sad to see it go and will return for more cycling with the family I promise myself.

David nearly leaves us!

Although C2C way-markers and signs are very clear, descents can be fast and this was the first of a few occasions when Luscious Lugs has careened off with our pal in completely the wrong direction.

But soon we were back on track and eating one of our epic luncheons on a beauty of a village green at Langwathby.

I enjoy eating almost as much as I enjoy cycling. We demolish avocado, chocolate, sausage rolls, crisps, dates, coffee, sardines, fruit and cake.

often we forget we are in the UK. My main regret on leaving Keswick is that we didn’t factor in time to visit the Cumberland Pencil Museum having been a heavy user of pencils from the age of four; next time I promise myself with my own four-year-old.

Hands start to wrinkle from absorbing rain and a pub appears with a roaring open fire: it would be daft not to stop for refreshment and warmth. The Troutbeck Inn is a sanctuary placed an hour before the final push up then fast downhill to Patterdale on the southern bank of svelte Ullswater. I only nearly fell in the lake once when trying out a lakeside offroad short cut.

Day 3 (15.08.2015) Patterdale-Nenthead We awoke refreshed with sunlight blasting into our comfy YHA room. Bill yoga-waved the sungods on the balcony,

Jon and Matt dried things and Dave ‘fry-up major’ Sherrington and I donned our tasteful lycras and fixed breakfast.

We needed to fuel up and get real. Today was to be a big-riding day (up to 35 miles...heroes!).

David and I, I guess because of the lycra, took the lead north along the lake’s bank towards Penrith. A wee bit jealous of David’s speedy Condor but I kept pace.

After an hour on quiet rural roads a bustling metropolis such as Penrith can be hazardous. Dumb bypasses and overcrowded junctions conspired to cause our first and only collision; me slamming into Bills panniers. No damage, just buddies intertwined on a busy roundabout for about 25 seconds and happy I brought my skid-lid along.

A very steep climb out of Penrith sees us leave the stunning Lake District, I’m

With greed-fed grunts we start climbing the foothills of the Pennines. Along the way I spot the words ‘Not on my Watch!’ daubed in red (blood?!) on the tarmac shortly followed by a series of voles or moles strung up in a sacrificial manner along a barbed wire fence (please contact CW if you know what this is about!) Then the sheer face of Hartside presents itself. The 756m elevation felt like three Ditchling Beacons on top of each other, for those of you familiar with the London to Brighton ride. At one point a car pulls over in-front of me and a man climbs out, gestures to me and asks “Are you ok mate??…we are concerned” “A-OK thanks” I reply “I always wobble at altitude!” I then snuck up a short but steep off-road short-cut (the C2C has plenty of such options) beating my 700c wheel-equipped friends to the summit. ’You laugh at my small wheels and barends boys but who’s laughing now?’ I think to myself! A great café sits at the top where you can admire the view and the expensive motorcycles parked up.

The tap water is brown on account of the moorland peat but it’s fine the staff tell us and Jon’s luxury ‘Ricqles’ peppermint oil drops mask any brown taste.

Then we saddle up and it feels like jumping out of a plane as we descend all the way down the western side hitting 40mph. Then along to the highest market settlement in England, Alston, and up again through picturesque, cobbled streets decorated with yellow bikes anticipating the arrival of The Tour of Britain. Finally towards Haggs’ Bank Camping and Bunkhouse near Nenthead. We then get eaten by midges, have a pasta cook up using stream water, watch a perfect sunset, see dancing revellers dressed as hot-dogs and strawberries party below, get a little drunk ourselves, go for a pointless walk (but it is so good to walk off riding legs),

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watch the millions of stars come out and count satellites zooming past and go to bed cold but contented.

Day 4 (16.08.2015) Nenthead-Consett As you can tell, we are ‘making a meal’ out of the C2C. Most make it in three days, a few do it in one and some club riders we meet claim one of their members did C2C-C2C in under 24 hours! Today would be the hardest day… at least for me.

Hills, hills and more lovely hills. And rusty orange Northumberland moors and so much epic silence, not even a breeze, only broken by occasional superbikes roaring past. It feels really isolated; snowmarkers and the road the only signs of civilization. We launch Jon’s drone to get footage and a better view…it was worth the extra weight!

We have a great coffee-stop in Allenheads and check out the community-owned lead-mining Heritage Centre and for the next five or so miles we ride through a ghostly steep-sided valley peppered with mine-relics, broken bridges; the echoes of abandoned industry.

We stick to the on-road option to lunch stop Stanhope, after passing a ghoulish woman dressed in Victorian garb pushing an ancient pram in the middle of nowhere. I stuff myself, foolishly with Co. Durham’s tasty but heavy chippy chips with optional ‘batter bits’ and then smash out a steep, long climb to the top of Stanhope Common. From Parkhead Station we can just about make out the finish-line of the North Sea. A long descent on a well-surfaced, disused railway track drops us down ‘cruise control style’ to Consett where we camp for the night; a good caravan site making an exception for a polite group of C2Cers with tents. After civilised coconut, rum and Lilt drinking we sleep so well.

Day 5 (17.08.2015) ConsettTynemouth We wake to bright sunshine and no animals fried for our breakfast this morning; all yogurt, muesli and fruit.

Our final leg was not hard or as scenic as the rest of the trip. Mostly downhill to Newcastle, we practically coast to the coast (see what I did there!) Matt nearly crushes two dozy dogs under his knobbly tyres and much of the route along the Tyne’s banks is busy and

shared use, so we drop our pace further.

I love a good ‘cycle-café', ever since my many years of spanner service at London’s pioneering ‘Look Mum No Hands!’ So a visit to Newcastle’s ‘The Cycle Hub’ is a perfect last stop for good coffee, tyre pumping, info, maps and mixing it with other bikeniks.

The final section to Tynemouth is a touch lumpy and less photogenic but South Shields is a pretty bustling fishing harbour. We round the corner of the headland and we reach the Tynemouth finish! Tide is well out so no front wheel dipping unfortunately.

I neck a disgusting caffeine shot energy drink (first of the trip; adrenaline and EPO sustaining me most other days) and we turn tail; due to Metro trains no non-folding bike policy it’s back to Newcastle for us! A beer at the station and champagne on the train. We are glowing, fit(ter) and definitely merrier than five days ago. We swear to plan another bike adventure soon; my body and soul craves it and I implore you try the C2C too…it is mega!

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Eat, Sleep, Ride, Repeat.

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CORK, KILLARNEY AND A SAVAGE HEADWIND… Text and photos by Shaun McCance Additional photos by Fáilte Ireland

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So there I was, it seemed the trip was ending much like it had started - the wee small hours of the night spent wide awake in a ferry terminal unable to sleep but this time with the prospect of having to be vaguely coherent come 9am. Though slightly manic travel arrangements are something that I have become all too accustomed to, six days earlier I had been sat in Pembroke docks listening to a storm passing through whilst awaiting a delayed ferry to take my steed and I to the Emerald Isle. A 2am departure can be passed off as a late night, 4am however is a little offensive.

Since a somewhat off-the-wall trip a couple of years back involving Christmas, New Year and nothing more in the way of plans other than a ferry to France and a flight back from Rome I’d come to the conclusion that planning a trip can be a little time consuming and unnecessary - if you don’t make plans then how can anything not go to plan? So with this mantra having very much shaped trips since I found myself rolling off the ferry in Waterford county with six days to get to the capital; happy to stay in hotels but carrying camping gear all the same and not adverse to a train ride or two if it were to fit the bill.

“Six days and 600 miles” Everything had been a bit of a last minute endeavour, in that Easter had suddenly crept up and I was facing a weekend devoid of any plans and the prospect of a rather uninspiring weekend despite the benefit of the extra couple of days. So, one lunch hour later I’d agreed a couple of extra days off work, figured a ‘convenient’ transport plan that entailed a late train, an overnight ferry, six days cycling from Rosslare and a late ferry back from Dublin with just about enough leeway to ensure I was on the 4am train home for work the same morning. In hindsight sleep should probably have been factored into this plan!

So rolling out of Rosslare after a wobbly crossing and on two hours sleep, a cuppa and a fry-up was higher on my list of priorities than the century I’d be aiming for that day. Six days and 600 miles fully laden was a respectable target, I admit this was the first big ride of the year and one of my targets was to lean up a little as I was in no way at peak fitness after the winter months. On the flip-side riding solo and without any prebooked overnight stops meant I was free to explore and do as much or as little on the bike as fitted the bill. And in my current sleep-deprived state, coupled with the prospect of a headwind along the south coast towards Cork, a hundred plus miles was entirely unappealing – compounded even more by the contrast with the warmth and shelter of the café where the lady, who in running Caroline’s café I assume was called Caroline, was cooking me a fine selection of particularly unhealthy fried delicacies as I supped pensively on a brew.

Caffeine is the cyclist’s friend, and after an hour and a half fuelling up and contemplating the prospect of what lay ahead I was back on the bike. Apparently the Republic of Ireland has “more than its share of violent murderers” so I learnt from the paper that Caroline has cheerily handed me to read whilst she cooked up some grub. And so I rolled away. Ireland is a friendly nation, let’s avoid the psychopaths and see how far I get. Day one passed quickly enough, tired and flagging a little I rolled into Dungarvan after 75 miles which seemed like a pleasant place to stop. I wish I could remember more of the first day but with the tiredness from the journey to Rosslare and an energy sapping headwind, it was a day of reflection. I’d been warned that it always rains in Ireland but despite the storm that had come through the previous night the first day had started to

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counter this accepted statement.

Putting the murderous villains to one side; Ireland‘s friendliness had been evident from the start, even with my reclusive state of mind that first day a friendly conversation was never far away and in arriving in Dungarvan the local B&B owner was no different.

Earlier, stopping for a late lunch in a tea room, I learnt that come Good Friday all the pubs would be closed and I was duly advised to make the most of Maundy Thursday!

Checked-in and with a comfortable bed for the evening it was time for a shower, dinner and perhaps some sightseeing. For me culture is all the more inspiring when I’m worn out otherwise I get a little fidgety. Cycle touring fits the bill rather nicely – a good effort in the day makes way for enjoying some culture in the evening and this pretty little town would have been a fine place to continue this appreciation, only foiled by my decision to lie down for a couple of minutes. Because the next thing I knew it was quarter to six the next morning – but well-rested I was, and breathing a new lease of life.

On the previous day I’d ended up on a waymarked cycle route that followed the coast and this continued west towards Ireland’s second city. So I bid farewell to Rose and Paddy, who seemed a little saddened that I hadn’t been out to explore their local town but were understanding, perhaps satisfied by the compliment of her comfortable rooms; and so I set out.

Glorious sunshine and only a light head wind today. Aided by sleep and food my grumbles from the previous day had drifted past. Although perhaps not entirely refuelled for missing dinner for the second day in a row, I was at least fired up after a sterling breakfast of porridge, honey, toast and scrambled eggs and the miles passed easily. More easily today, though I was quickly learning to check the map more regularly as signage was often a little misleading and as such perhaps a few more miles had had to pass than would otherwise have been necessary in spinning away towards Cork.

I was starting to feel that I had been misled - it doesn’t always rain in Ireland. In fact I was now a little sunburnt as I checked into a guesthouse that evening. After an inadvertently sociable dinner, with a lady called Orla who just happened to be eating alone and had sat down on the next table just shortly after I had

done so myself, it was now time for a little culture and perhaps a pint of Guinness to help things along! Sleep was perhaps still needed but that could wait. It was after all Maundy Thursday and seeing as all the pubs close the following day it only seemed right. Ireland was certainly making up for the dry sobering slant of the following day! Stumbling back to the guest house didn’t bode well for a prompt start the following morning but conveniently there was a train to Killarney at a sociable hour and as if by magic when I awoke it was raining. So decision made – pedal to the train station for an easy ride to the next county. Killarney is after all the gateway to the Kerry Mountains which had been a target for the trip with the Ring of Kerry being on the tick list.

In changing trains half way I ended up, bike safely stowed, relaxing on an almost empty carriage of a train being held at the platform for some reason. The reasoning for this became apparent when the connecting train from Dublin arrived and the carriage was overwhelmed with cheerful Irish folk looking forward to the holiday weekend. At which point John and his good lady introduced themselves - a friendly Irish couple heading home to see their families in Kerry. In learning that they lived in Dublin I asked, and they were all too happy to advise, as to things to do in the city, as I was contemplating a day there at the end of the trip. Entertainingly a notepad was produced and after a list of places to see had quickly morphed into a list of restaurants it became titled as such. That was until John pointed out that actually it was just a list of pubs rather than restaurants as intended.

The title was scribbled out and the word “Beers” replaced it. This I find amusing whenever I have since looked back on it. Incidentally it would have been some pub crawl - a pint in each of these establishments would certainly have seen me missing my ferry home - and lost in conversation I then entertainingly nearly missed my stop at Killarney! By which time the sun had come out.

The next day started in Sneem, having spun away for about 30 miles along the high road the previous afternoon I stayed in what was possibly one of the prettiest villages I’d ever seen.

Nestled just inland on the river feeding a sea inlet with the backdrop of the infamous Kerry mountains, I was all set for a big day pedalling the coastline – and what a day. The sun was shining, the air was comparatively still, the roads were mostly excellent

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and there were some proper hills, both in the scenery and the route.

“encircling the Kerry Mountains in their entirety”

The Ring of Kerry is a well-known route, part of the Wild Atlantic Way running the length of the west coast of Ireland and, in loosely following the coastline, encircling the Kerry Mountains in their entirety. Waterville was the first target after a splendid breakfast. Today I was feeling energised, good food, good rest, the sun on my back and conveniently either my saddle or my back side had started to take the hint that they needed to get along.

The Ring of Kerry finally brought some hills, nothing too steep or strenuous but long enough to be satisfying, two years ago on the French Riviera I had been burning off electric bikes and holding my own in pelotons on a fully laden touring bike, much to the disgust of the club riders who I’d ended up catching, and today it was nice to know I’d not entirely lost my touch Spinning on around the coastline the route diverted inland a little before taking a prominent diversion from the main road to continue on into the fishing village of Portmagee and on to Valentia Island. And with a 50mph descent into Portmagee, aided by the weight of a loaded pannier rack, straight down the romans couldn’t have built a straighter road – my smile was beaming.

Portmagee is a pretty little fishing village at the very end of the peninsula and seemingly untouched by the 21st century.

With fishing still being the main business, aside from tourism, the waterfront was a comparatively industrial setting with seemingly a still thriving trade. Moored on the slipway sat the Marber Therese, a trawler, sitting high on the concrete incline and just adding to the character of the village centre.

Although part of the Ring of Kerry, Portmagee is actually off of the main road and part of the Skellig Ring which continues on to Valentia Island over a bridge and back via a ferry service.

Conscious of the distance and being unable to find out whether the ferry was operating being the Easter weekend I opted for the safe route staying on the mainland and turning east to re-join the main route.

Turning at Portmagee to head back in a generally easterly direction it soon became apparent why it had been such a beautiful still day, to this point I’d mainly had a tailwind. Although light and almost unnoticeable, it was evidently rather helpful as turning back along the northern coastline now turned this pleasant and unnoticed assistance into something of a nuisance for the latter half of the day. Still, at least the sun was shining – apparently it always rains in Ireland!

The fifth day was somewhat undecided until I was on the road that morning. I’d been aiming for Killorgan for accommodation the night before but got side-tracked by a lovely hotel on the shore of Caragh lake. Only a few miles short of my target for the day but well worth it as a destination. In spite of being entertainingly out of place on a bicycle, the

hotel was second to none and provided a fitting end to the best day’s cycling of the trip.

The plan for day five developed as I was spinning towards Tralee on passing a sign for Dingle, which had been a recommended destination by John the pub-listing Dubliner, and realising the distance was quite achievable. I’d deduced the distance to Dingle the previous night and thought it to be much further than what was shown on the signpost I passed, so encouraged I continued with the waymarked Wild Atlantic Way. It was a fairly easy spin out past Inch Strand to the Dingle, one of perhaps the most rural areas of Ireland with Gaelic, I’m told, as a first language for the majority.

Dingle itself was rather touristy and appreciably so, thus after a fleeting visit, aware of the distance to my destination for the day I set off up towards Connor Pass, a five-mile road climb crossing from the south to the north coast of the peninsula.

I later learned that the onward loop from Dingle around the headland via Dunquin was an exceptional route and would have been well worth the effort; perhaps this was where I had attributed the extra mileage when deterred from planning on heading to Dingle the previous evening. By the point I bumped into a friendly local cyclist who recommended Dunquin, I was already atop Connor Pass, and the views were incredible! Well worth the effort and now the 500m decent all the way to the north coast. Wrapping up for what looked like a shady few miles I’d pondered why there had been repeated road signs prohibiting the passage of anything over 6ft in width. The road so far had been pleasant and wide, and with more than enough room for everyone. The reasoning was about to become clear as I started to descend! What lay ahead was a meandering single track, for the most part, road traversing down the cliff face north of the pass. Almost alpine in character the route frequently passed through cuttings in prominent buttresses in the cliff face which low and behold were never more than about 6ft 6in wide.

The spin back east was a leisurely affair with a late lunch on route rolling into Tralee just in time for the last train to Dublin.

Tralee forms the terminus of the Kerry and Killarney branch line. The option to head to Dublin the following morning would have perhaps meant cheaper accommodation and a trip across Ireland in daylight but in wanting to offload my bike and luggage to explore the capital the next day before my evening ferry home, it made sense to head over on the Sunday evening and find a hotel with a luggage room that could take a bike.

And Dublin lived up to expectations.

BIKE MAGAZINE 51

CYCLE TOURING FROM A NEW PERSPECTIVE The Atlas Mountains, Atlantic Coast, Sahara Desert …

Morocco is the ideal place to have an amazing cycling adventure this spring. Hire a bike or bring your own to enjoy the great weather and fantastic landscape of this exotic country on Europe’s doorstep.

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SCOTLAND

SCOTLAND’S

MOST ICONIC AND CHALLENGING RIDING I was going clockwise, motivated to get the fiercely hilly west coast out of the way during the daylight and whilst I was fresh. And I was soon feeling optimistic – the first 50 miles passed quickly as I started through relatively flat farmland and then alongside the first lochs and forests as I reached the rugged west coast.

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SCOTLAND

The Beallach Na Ba (Pass of the Cattle) boasts the greatest ascent of any road climb in the UK, rising from sea level to 2,054ft over 9.1km, making it the third highest road in Scotland, with a stunning Alpine style switch back section, accentuated by the single track and at one point 20% gradient. But it isn’t as fierce as its reputation, and taken steadily is a joy to ride.

However, soon the weather started rolling in from the Atlantic. The Applecross peninsula remains constantly undulating, often steep and twisting, and for a few hours we were spoilt with sunshine and views around to the sleepy village of Shieldaig. But as the magnificent, steep terraced sides the Torridon Hills came into view, bare sandstone crowned with white quartzite, the skies darkened and a light drizzle started.

I climbed steadily up and over to Gairloch, sheets of rain falling from slate-grey sky. Riding the same bike that I pedaled Cairo to Cape Town earlier in the year, chosen out of my road bikes for its more comfortable geometry. However, most of Africa’s 439 hours of pedaling was spent on the tri-bars, efficiently spinning along in the same gear. Scotland west coast is anything by steady terrain and my average speed was falling as quickly as my sense of humour as the scale of the challenge hit home.

As the light faded long before sunset under heavy skies, I set my next target on midnight, glancing into windows of roadside cottages, looking snug and warm. As the hours passed, these passing windows also went dark and I was left in the pool of my headlight.

North of Lochinver the road narrowed once again to a narrow track and I faced some extraordinary terrain, no doubt stunning by day, but at 4am in the pouring rain this was the toughest section yet. Reaching Durness, Scotland’s northwest corner, was an huge and long awaited relief. I guessed wrongly that I would finally turn east and gain some flatter roads. In fact, the route remains hilly until Thurso. However, by the village of Tongue, dawn had at least brought a break in the weather. After 13 hours of rain I started to dry out.

Mentally, I had kept my focus very short through the night, a few hours at a time. As is often the case, once past the tough stretch, back in the daylight and dry, rather than feeling great I soon lost focus, and had a few hours in the mental doldrums. Staring at the road under my front wheel, hurting deeply and unable to think about the 200 miles that still remained. It wasn’t until mid morning that I managed to shake the slump and pick my speed up again, focused on the next milestone, John O’Groats.

Spontaneous support riders and roadside cheerleaders started appearing from mid morning and gave me a huge boost. The rugged west gave way to the calmer east; sea cliffs drop off Dunnet’s Head, mainland Britain’s most northerly point, giving a stark border to the North Sea and a horizon only broken by the outlying islands of Orkney.

The NC500 has ever-changing scenery, and whilst the road down the east coast is bigger and relatively busier, it has its own beauty. Ruined castles amidst the rolling farmland, as waves crash ashore, oilfields scattering the seascape. The sea is rarely out of sight on this long quadrant south to Inverness.

I barely stopped, although the Berrydale climb and subsequent gorges reduced me to a walking pace, climbing out of the saddle. Seeing my heart rate souring to 160bpm after 34 hours in the saddle was certainly unwelcome. I was digging really deep, and riding into the unknown. I was now well into day two.

After 37 hours 58 minutes I climbed the final time to Inverness Castle with a police escort to a welcome by the Lord Provost and a good crowd.

What a wonderful reception, not just at the finale, but also throughout.

It was heartwarming stuff and made the daft mission all the more enjoyable.

I will admit it took a few sleeps to feel recovered and even longer before I could look at my bike again!

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SHOWCASE

© National Trust Images. Registered Charity Number 205846.

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