BIKE Magazine - May 2020

Health Advice – Cycling Advice – Scotland – China – Hungary – Spain

UK’S LEISURE CYCLING AND TRAVEL MAGAZINE

MAY 2020

Lake Balaton The Hungarian Sea By Bicycle

DESTINATION

CHINA Is China a great place to cycle?

CYCLING IN ANDALUCÍA CYCLING ADVICE

Taking the weight off your back

MAY 2020

£5.99/€6.99

NEW COLUMN

#health

MADE IN THE UK

2 BIKE MAGAZINE MAY 2020

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MAY 2020 BIKE MAGAZINE 3

CONTENTS

INSIDE MAY 2020

26

48

Is China a great place to cycle? Part 1 The bike is a great method of getting about in China’s cities and also a wonderful alternative to the car when exploring the countryside, as well as being an authentic way of see the real China.

CYCLING IN ANDALUCÍA

32 Lake Balaton, Hungary Lake Balaton is one of the best thing what you can find in Hungary.

Balaton is the largest lake in Central Europe and the most popular part of Hungary. It is excellent for swimming and cycling.

42 Edinburgh, Scotland So, as I sat on a flight up to the Scottish capital on what could only be described as a Cortina with wings (and more worryingly propeller’s) I tentatively approached the topic of cycling in the city with my wife of one day, Sarah.

CYCLING ADVICE

54 Taking the weight off your back

14

Cognac, France Child-friendly French Touring by Christine Mcdonnell

4 BIKE MAGAZINE MAY 2020

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MAY 2020 BIKE MAGAZINE 5

WELCOME

Welcome

to the May issue

With summer just around the corner and the warm weather we can already smell freshly cut grass and barbecues.

Hopefully the end to the global lockdown will be in sight soon which should bring cyclists back on the tract and restore some of the big cycling event for this year such as ’Tour de France’ which has announced it will move its event date running from the 29th August - 20th September 2020.

Another big cycling event, ‘The London Bike Show’ which is the biggest cycling event in town has cancelled its 2020 event and will return next year in 2021. This is due to the venue being occupied by the temporary NHS Nightingale Hospital.

In this issue we have a new #Health column with nutritional information about #blueberries and #darkchocolate, with the addition of healthy recipes - by Karoly Nagy. (p.6)

Anthony Walstow from Cycling Advice is on page 14 with Taking the weight off your back article.

“Have you packed your solarpowered battery packs?” asks Aurelie, thousands of miles away from her Helsinki home on her journey with Marco to Southeast Asia - Their story is on page 20.

Read Scot Whitlock is asking Is China a great place to cycle on page 26; And on page 42 - Scot’s Cycling journey to Edinburgh

Nick Branxton editor@bike-mag.com facebook.com/thebikemag instagram.com/bikemaguk twitter.com/TheBikeMag

Sun, Beach, Mountain - all you can ask for from Spain’s Andalucía written by Nadiah Aziz.

Get on yer bike for one hour per day and stay home, stay safe! > Nick Branxton - Editor

Magazine Team

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Editor: Nick Branxton

https://bike-mag.com/advertise

Health Advice – Cycling Advice – Scotland – China – Hungary – Spain

T. +44 (0)207 097 5177 E. editor@bike-mag.com

Sales Manager: Ana Santos

UK’S LEISURE CYCLING AND TRAVEL MAGAZINE

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Lake Balaton

Production Manager: Jack Adams

The Hungarian Sea By Bicycle

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DESTINATION

CHINA Is China a great place to cycle?

CYCLING IN ANDALUCÍA CYCLING ADVICE

Taking the weight off your back

MAY 2020

£5.99/€6.99 MADE IN THE UK

Webify Media Ltd

MAY 2020

NEW COLUMN

#health

6 BIKE MAGAZINE MAY 2020

#HEALTH

MAY 2020 BIKE MAGAZINE 7

#HEALTH

I have created this segment for you to introduce health tips, share knowledge and give you advices how to improve your health or how to live a healthier life. The main focus on nutrition for people who are interested in sports, especially cycling. This segment will be in every edition and I will write about two topic. I am giving you information and advices about two superfoods in this first article. The two superfoods - #blueberry and #darkchocolate.

#blueberry Blueberry is a plant. People use the fruit and leaves to make medicine.

For centuries, blueberries were gathered from the forests and the bogs and consumed fresh and also preserved. Before the 1900s, the only way to enjoy these was to find them in the wild. Scientists started to unlock the secrets of cultivating blueberries. Blueberries are now easy to grow in your backyard. Their work has resulted in the juicy, sweet and easy to pick cultivated blueberry we enjoy today.Blueberry bushes aren’t just a great fruiting plant but also a nice addition to your overall landscape. Blueberries are available fresh, frozen, freeze dried, and in jellies, syrups, and jams.

Did you know? Blueberry juice was used to treat coughs also made an excellent dye for cloth.

100g fresh blueberries contain: — 57 calories — 0,74 g of protein — 0,33 g of fat — 0 mg of cholesterol — 1 mg of sodium — 14,49 g of carbs: 9,96g sugars — 9,7 mg of vitamin C — 6 mg of calcium — 77 mg of potassium — 0,28 mg of iron

Karoly Nagy He is very passionate about traveling and cultural impacts. His studies connect to HR and community organization. Karoly has been working on lot of projects in different fields.

Motto: Find your own way and never give up!

Email: karolynagyofficial@gmail.com

8 BIKE MAGAZINE MAY 2020

#HEALTH

Did you know? If you would like to burn 57 calories need to do 8 minutes of cycling.

BENEFITS:

#recipe Easy quick blueberry muffin Prep: 15 mins

Healthy bones

Cook: 25 mins

Blueberries contain iron, calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, manganese, zinc, and vitamin K. Each of these is a component of bone. Appropriate intake of these minerals and vitamins contributes to building and maintaining bone strength and structure.Zinc and iron are maintaining the strength and elasticity of bones and joints.

Total: 40 mins

Antioxidants Blackberries contain high levels of antioxidants.The body uses antioxidants to reduce the damage that free radicals can cause. Antioxidants involved in the ageing process and other health conditions such as heart disease and cancer.

Lowering blood pressure Blueberries are low of sodium.

Maintaining low sodium levels help to keeping blood pressure at a healthful level.

Improving mental health Studies found that blueberries can improve short-term memory and motor coordination.

Vitamin C Blackberries contain a high level of vitamin C.This vitamin is involved in immune system functioning and protein synthesis, help for the body to produce collagen. Collagen is the support system of the skin. Collagen helps to prevent skin damage and wrinkles.

It is very helpful to maintain skin texture. Vitamin C also has antioxidant properties.

Reduce muscle damage after strenuous exercise Blueberries can help to minimising the soreness and muscle recovery especially after leg exercises such as cycling.

Servings: 6 Ingredients: — 1/4 cup all-purpose flour — 1/4 teaspoon salt — 1 teaspoons baking powder — 1/4 cup and 2 tablespoons white sugar — 3 eggs — 1/4 cup vegetable oil — 1/4 cup milk, — 3/4 cup fresh blueberries — 1/4 cup all-purpose flour — 1/4 cup and 2 tablespoons white sugar — 3 tablespoons butter — 1 teaspoon cinnamon Directions: STEP 1 – Preheat the oven.

STEP 2 – Make a flour mixture of 1/4 cup all-purpose flour, 1/4 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon baking powder and 1/4 cup and 2 tablespoons white sugar. Place 1/4 cup vegetable oil into a cup add 3 eggs and 1/4 cup milk. Mix this with flour mixture. Put in this mixture the blueberries and place this mixture in the muffin forms.

STEP 3 – Make topping. Mix together 1/4 cup all-purpose flour, 1/4 cup and 2 tablespoons white sugar, 3 tablespoons butter and 1 teaspoon cinnamon. Mix it with fork and sprinkle on the muffins before baking.

STEP 4 – Bake it for 20- 25 minutes.

Blueberries have lot of benefits and easily can be in our menu on everyday.

MAY 2020 BIKE MAGAZINE 9

#HEALTH

10 BIKE MAGAZINE MAY 2020

#HEALTH

MAY 2020 BIKE MAGAZINE 11

#HEALTH

#darkchocolate

cardiovascular disease.

Dark chocolate is chocolate that is made primarily with sugar, cocoa and cocoa butter, and does not contain milk or milk solids.

Early on, dark chocolate was the only form of chocolate available. During the 20th century, mass distribution greatly increased the popularity of milk chocolate, and in the late 20th century, dark chocolate regained popularity due to its health benefits.The amount of sugar, cocoa and cocoa butter can vary dramatically from brand to brand, but it is the lack of milk that really distinguishes dark chocolate from milk chocolate. Dark chocolates also often include vanilla and an emulsifier, to keep the chocolate as smooth as possible. The more cocoa and less sugar dark chocolate has, the more bitter it will taste and a small amount is considered a healthful snack.

Boost your immune system

Did you know? Chocolate was first seen in bar form in about 1910.

The sugars and fats that are added to chocolate make it high in calories, which may lead to weight gain. Like many foods, chocolate is healthiest when eaten in moderation.

100g dark chocolate contains: — 571 calories

Dark chocolate has a positive effect on the lymphoid tissues and treat your immune system with antioxidants. Lymphoid organs help to coordinate the immune response. You can find in dark chocolate calcium, niacin, manganese, riboflavin, iron, magnesium, zinc, copper, caffeine.

Help in weight loss Dark chocolate reduces cravings for sweet, salty and fatty foods. They have a very high satiety value which makes you feel full for a longer time. Buy good quality dark chocolate if you craving for sweets.

Risk

#recipe

— 7 g of protein

Dark chocolate fondue

— 33 g of fat

Prep: 10 mins

— 1 mg of cholesterol — 6 mg of sodium — 59 g of carbs: 43g of sugar — 567 mg of potassium — 1 mg of vitamin A Did you know? If you would like to burn 571 calories need to do 1,4 hours of cycling.

BENEFITS

Cook: 10 mins Total: 20 mins Servings: 8-12 Ingredients: — 170 g good quality dark chocolate — 80 g milk chocolate — 1 tablespoon butter

Can improve brain functions

— 1/2 cup whole milk

High intake of high-quality chocolate empower improvements of visual-spatial awareness, abstract scanning, working memory. The flavonols in chocolate specifically help people with their mental math.

— 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Help prevent depression

STEP 1 – Combine 170 g good quality dark chocolate, 80 g milk chocolate and 1 tablespoon butter in a small bowl and melt gently in a microwave for about 2 minutes.

Chocolate interact with neurotransmitter systems that contribute to appetite, reward and mood regulation, such as dopamine, serotonin and endorphins. The chocolate can provide a mood and energy boost.

Can lower your blood pressure Dark chocolate can be more enjoyable way of lowering blood pressure than medical options.

Help prevent cardiovascular disease In a recent study regular intake of cocoa can have a positive effect in fighting cardiovascular disease. The conclusions were that cocoa does indeed lower the chances and significance of

— fruits for dipping ( bananas, strawberries, clementines, blackberries, oranges etc) Directions

STEP 2 – Stir until completely smooth.

STEP 3 – Add more milk and the pure vanilla extract.

STEP 4 – Serve this fondue with the fruits immediately. Use the microwave again for remelting if the chocolate starts to harden. #plus Keep in your mind that dark chocolate is high in fat and calories - so self control. Be healthy, be happy.

12 BIKE MAGAZINE MAY 2020

STEREO HYBRID 140 HPA SL 500

MOVE MOUNTAINS , RIDE CUBE

STEREO HYBRID 120 HPA SL 500

MAY 2020 BIKE MAGAZINE 13

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14 BIKE MAGAZINE MAY 2020

CYCLING ADVICE

CYCLING ADVICE

Taking the weight off your back

MAY 2020 BIKE MAGAZINE 15

CYCLING ADVICE

JRC Components Hokan Saddle Roll Bag Review (www.jrc-components.com)

Approaching the age of almost 40 years young I have been wanting to make a minor change to my ride setup as something was niggling at me.

Riding an aero bike, with a slammed stem, which some may deem an aggressive setup, I find this is a very comfortable riding style. However only after having a professional bike fit should you do this, not because it aesthetically looks good. Some riders will tell you regardless of fit just to slam it. While it may look nice it could end in unnecessary injuries, but hey, it’ll look good at the café stop so they say.

While the bike fit suits, what I carry in my jersey pockets doesn’t. I like to be well prepared on a ride with taking a number of spares, some would say over prepared but it has served me well in the past being over prepared (once getting two punctures on one ride from shingle) and it hasn’t required me to rely on the wife to pick me up, stranded somewhere. It’s also helped situations in a group ride with giving those lesser prepared riders needing a spare inner tube or the tools to tighten a bolt.

The spares I carry are: Two Lezyne CO2 bottles Lezyne CO2 mini pump Topeak Mini 18 Plus Multitool Two Park Tool tyre levers Two 20-25c Continental inner tubes.

As a top tip though, look up on YouTube for how to pack an inner tube. Sounds silly but repacking an inner tube reduces its size by 50%, significantly reducing any unwanted bulk in a jersey pocket or the Hokan saddle roll bag.

Anthony Walstow  @CyclingCentre : Admin on Cycling Advice Author: “A passionate cyclist, obsessed about anything aero or tech with an addiction to buying bikes”

16 BIKE MAGAZINE MAY 2020

CYCLING ADVICE

Any way we digress.

For a while now a large Sticky Pod has been used to house all the required spares, but as I load up my pockets, with a mini extendable lock (a deterrent if anything at the café stop), cliff bar and my phone, I realised I am carrying an immense amount of weight in my jersey pockets.

This has never caused discomfort, it’s just heavy, like I had strapped a bunch of weights around my waist for fun.

Saddle bags can be an odd entity, their looks often dividing many on social media. Riding an aero bike, its striking lines and a bike which has gone through many design iterations and hours of wind tunnel testing, strapping something to a bike of this nature you could say defeated the object of its design.

BUT, and it’s a big but, can a saddle bag look good? Yes, which brings me to the JRC Components Hokan Saddle Roll Bag.

I wanted a product which looked great, tough and would withstand the rigours of all-weather riding, and offered a different look to the traditional saddle bag design.

The first aspect you notice about the Hokan saddle bag is the Atop dial. It immediately gives the feel of a high-end quality product. Atop dials are used on many high end road shoe brands, allowing you to dial in the perfect level of fitment, offering infinite and easy adjustments when on the move, and the Hokan bag is no different.

The bag is made from a PVC coated 600D polyester, with thick seams and is also waterproof. The feel of the Hokan bag is tough, like its built to last which is important knowing your spares are going to be held securely, the product isn’t going to degrade, and the bag will stay securely attached to your bike.

I have always admired JRC Components, they make an array of fantastic quality kit, often made in a wide selection of brilliant colours.

My first product I purchased from JRC Components was an out-front Garmin mount, after a previous (unbranded) mount snapped, almost throwing my Garmin into the road but catching it just before it flew off. I tried JRC’s version which has been going strong for over 12 months now, and did I mention it looked great too.

I’m keen to retain loyalty to companies who make good products and offer great service, they’re difficult attributes to find, but JRC ticks those boxes. From time to time I regularly check the JRC website to browse their products. It was then perfect timing with me wanting to lighten the load on my jersey pockets that JRC had just released their new Hokan saddle roll bag.

The bag is priced extremely well at £25.60 (28.95 Euros. Price taken at the current exchange rate).

The brief was to transfer all, if not most of what was in my jersey pockets into the Hokan bag, making the bike take up the weight.

The problem with some saddle bags is they can suffer from the dreaded rattle as there aren’t specific compartments for each spare, leaving a void and room for movement. Not the case with the Hokan bag.

The design is simple yet effective. Place your spares in the pockets, fold in half, roll up, securing with an initial small but sturdy Velcro tab, then another Velcro strap lengthways along the bag.

Finally, a strong wire wrapping around the bag and tightened by the Atop dial.

MAY 2020 BIKE MAGAZINE 17

CYCLING ADVICE

The wire has a padded section which goes over your seat rails, ensuring no abrasion marks are left on the rails, then hooks onto the plastic clip. The Atop dial is then tightened giving a secure and perfect fit.

Once tightened it pulls the bag up neatly under the saddle The Hokan bag empty weighs 120g, filled with all of my spares is 626g. That doesn’t sound heavy but picking it up is what feels like a good hand sized rock. A welcomed weight out of my jersey pocket.

On the bike the Hokan bag looks fantastic, purposeful yet neatly designed and the Atop dial tying it all in nicely The shape is different to a traditional saddle bag, avoiding the “wedge” like shape which bulges from your seat post.

The Hokan bag sits at an angle, moving in towards the seat post, giving a neat and tucked look, so not spoiling or detracting from the look of your bike.

This for me was one of the biggest selling points, a saddle bag which didn’t look like a saddle bag and JRC Components have delivered this aesthetical aspect nicely.

The Hokan bag was tested on a short 45-mile ride and as expected performed perfectly, no movement or slippage, held secure and nothing came undone. This is a product which will certainly last and go the distance, leaving you to just get on with your ride.

If you’re looking for something a little different, all your spares packaged in a neat and stylish way, then the JRC Components Hokan saddle roll bag is highly recommended.

Look at www.jrc-components.com for further information.

18 BIKE MAGAZINE MAY 2020

2

Cycling World August 2015

MAY 2020 BIKE MAGAZINE 19

August 2015 Cycling World

1

20 BIKE MAGAZINE MAY 2020

HELSINKI TO SINGAPORE

Travel

HELSINKI TO SINGAPORE

MAY 2020 BIKE MAGAZINE 21

HELSINKI TO SINGAPORE

The trouble is that you may not be sure what to put in those pannier, or maybe your old sleeping mat needs a well deserved retirement. Well, here’s a few items we have carried halfway around the world which are worth mentioning and might give you some ideas for that upcoming trip.

First of all, and simply because nowadays we all pack at least two or three electronic gadgets when cycling about; power. Obviously, these days, the first thing that comes to mind is a power bank and yes, we do have a biggy; 22.000mAh is no joke! So far on our trip it has never let us down, even though we were pretty close a couple of times, but the point is that if you’re thinking about literally going off the grid for a while, you’ll need to carry some sort of power storage or something really reliable with which to recharge those batteries and in our case it’s a solar panel.

Ok, small parentheses here; both power bank and solar panel? That’s a question we asked ourselves a lot before leaving and now, after almost a year and 10.000 miles we are mega happy to be carrying that weight. We are not technology addicts but we do, for example, love music so having a full green battery on our iPod is a must at any time.

Back to the hardware. Both our solar panel and power bank are RAV Power and there’s not much to declare; they shipped fast and do exactly what they say on the tin. When folded the panel is smaller than an A4 and open it lays comfortably on top of the tent in between the rear panniers and, with a max power output of…, on a sunny day it charges as well as having the mobile plugged in the mains.

By far the item whose purchase replaced a lot of our sleeping time, after the bike itself of course, has

to be the tent. The tent will be your home for however long you’re planning to travel (and hopefully future endeavours too) so it’s not something you buy lightly. There are endless manufacturers, types, materials, shapes and prices to choose from and making a bad choice could have nefast results on your journey.

Aurelie and Marco Instagram: @421adventure Web: 421adventure.wordpress.com

Having said this, and hopefully haven’t put anyone off, we went with a 3 people’s tent for a bit more comfort on those rainy days when cycling is the bad option and staying dry, drinking coffee and reading a book is the obvious one. A bigger tent means more weight but when everything-but-the-bike is safe, dry and only a few inches away from you, you kind of forget about those few extra pounds.

After many hours spent in front of the screen we finally bought a Vango Halo 300 Pro and, unfortunately, it hasn’t been plain sailing all the way; there seems to be an issue with the fiberglass poles which started to mis-shape straight away and we have not been able to solve this issue with the manufacturer. Having said that,

“Moving over to a more practical need while touring: communicating with the locals”

22 BIKE MAGAZINE MAY 2020

HELSINKI TO SINGAPORE

we still believe that it’s pretty good value for money and are impressed by the packdown size of it every morning.

While on the subject of sleeping, we think our mats are also spot on! Sea to Summit is well-known for quality and reliability and for the first time in our lives we put our rest in the hands of the Irish brand and haven’t regretted it since. Their Neo Air is comfortable and insulates incredibly well against cold and humidity. The cherry on top is the amazing repair kit that comes with this mat which has, kind of, saved our lives once already. Maybe the only downside to this otherwise amazing product is the type of valve used which makes finding a pump a bit of a challenge (we adapted our old one using 2 inches of watering hose).

And, if like us, you’ve reached that age where resting your head on a folded sweater is no longer appealing, let me introduce you to our best pillow so far, the…… We were really surprised to actually like this pillow as much as we do and if anything happened to our current one we would definitely try to acquire another asap. It packs down really small, it’s very easy and quick to inflate, it’s big enough to hold your head adequately so that it doesn’t roll off the sides and it even has a few millimetres of viscoelastic to make you forget that this is just a mini lilo!

Apart from cycling and camping, something we really love doing is cooking. Again, if you think about going off the trail for a few days, it’s unthinkable, at least for an Italo-French couple such as ourselves, to eat just power bars or warmed up canned food for various days. In the past we used simple propane stoves but for our long-haul trip to Southeast Asia we decided to change gas canisters for liquid fuel (ethanol to be concrete) and we love it!

Just like anything else, there are a number of pros and cons to consider, but ultimately what really tipped the balance was the fact that, in 95% of the cases, we are not in a hurry when it comes to eating. Our Trangia burner is probably slower than any other type on the market but it’s also the quieter, making absolutely zero noise, and we have come to really appreciate that; we were never really big fans of our previous burners sounding like jet planes taking off while making coffee in the morning. You can build your own set yourself depending on needs and budget. We have the Teflon pans model and are more than satisfied with the buy.

And to finish the camping section of this article, something that we really missed on our previous bikepacking trips across Europe was a common light so that we didn’t have to feel like miners wearing our headlights.

MAY 2020 BIKE MAGAZINE 23

HELSINKI TO SINGAPORE

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HELSINKI TO SINGAPORE

We just tried our luck with a portable camping lantern by LE (Lighting Ever) and we loved it from the second we took it out of the box. Long-lasting battery which doubles up as a power bank, 4 light modes with battery indicator, foldable stand, hooks and, last but not least, a mega powerful spot light which will light the way up to 1 kilometre away.

Moving over to a more practical need while touring: communicating with the locals. We knew that our European languages would have their limitations and having to cross about 27 countries on our current trip, we didn’t really feel like learning all those tongues. With Internet not readily available all over the world we often posed ourselves the problem of the good old language barrier. Then one day we stumbled across “The Wordless Travel Book”

on Amazon. It’s simply an A5 (perfect for the handlebar bag) booklet full of images of everyday objects, foodstuff and lots more. It has already taken us out of a couple of sticky situations (we were glad to have it while in Russia) so we have laminated it just in case. A great way to spend 6€ if you ask me!

And finally, to help us through the twisting labyrinth of tarmac (if we’re lucky) from here to there, just a few quick words about our navigator; after all, we are supposed to talk a little about cycling! Our biggest concerns from the very beginning were the duration of the battery and satellite reception and we think we have found a very good compromise in the Garmin Touring Edge.

It’s compact, it charges pretty quickly and its battery lasts all day and it has, so far, never left us stranded anywhere

because of poor connection. It’s just an easy to use and no frills bike navigator whose only shortfall is the lack of a thermometer.

Inevitably, whatever gear you have, you’ll end up having a great time out there because travelling by bike is not about what you have in your panniers but all those things that cannot be put in any place, apart from your memory. So, our best advice is not to worry about it too much really, things will work out in the end and if they don’t, at least you will have learnt a valuable lesson about how to choose your gear better next time!

MAY 2020 BIKE MAGAZINE 25

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26 BIKE MAGAZINE MAY 2020

CHINA - PART 1

Destination

China

MAY 2020 BIKE MAGAZINE 27

CHINA - PART 1

The bike is a great method of getting about in China’s cities and also a wonderful alternative to the car when exploring the countryside, as well as being an authentic way of see the real China.

Is China a great place to cycle – Part One? Unfortunately, due to the considerable size of the Country you will have to combine your cycling with much quicker methods of transport, i.e. trains, boats, planes, if you want to explore further into the provinces.

The next few pages will hopefully give you a brief insight into cycling in China, I visit some of the bestknown cities and sights as well as venturing of the beaten track to discover the real China. Our first destination was Shanghai, the new shiny face of China. The city is still in its adolescence but is home to approximately 25 million people (and growing!) Its truly a city where east meets west, colourful, chaotic and full of contradictions. The city has plenty of history but its overshadowed by the metallic giants of globalisation and business. The majority of the locals utilise the buses and the subway, the roads are relatively quiet due to the requirement to pay millions of Yuan for a Shanghai number plate.

This costly process significantly reduces the number of locals who can afford the luxury of a car which was the reason for the authorities imposing the legislation in the first place. The city is an exception to other Chinese cities, the bike is rarely used or seen. Don’t get me wrong, the bike is still present but definitely not as popular and the majority of rider’s don face masks in an attempt to reduce the risk from pollution. The city is dominated by the underground which is relatively cheap making it an obvious choice with the locals

and visitors alike. The efficiency and ease of the public transport obviously deters people from venturing out on the bike which is a surprise considering the reduction in the volume of cars and the standard (lack of) of driving, in-comparison to other Chinese cities.

The only exception is the beautiful French Concession district, the pleasant tree-lined avenues are awash with the bike. The area retains a simple but elegant character, definitely western in influence, its home to a mass of independent retailers, cafes and restaurants. Once the home of the city’s explorer types and writers, it maintains an artistic inspirational flair. The lack of bikes is a real shame because the city especially the Bund is a great setting to pedal and at night the lights set a dramatic backdrop, the views are mesmerising as you gaze over the Huangpu river towards the Pudong skyline, and if you turn your eyes in the other direction the view of the Puxi skyline with its art-deco and gothic architecture is a match for the globes of steel and endless glass.

This perfectly highlights the rapid growth that will no doubt make China the World’s number one super power that it aspires too, if isn’t already!

Bike hire outlets can be found in most tourist locations with the majority of youth hostels offering bicycles for rental. As normal bikes can be hired by the day or by the hour and rental prices vary depending on the location,

Scot Whitlock Twitter: cadencemag Website: cadencemag.co.uk Author, ‘Simple Words from the Saddle, Simply More Words from the Saddle & The Way of St James’ Twitter: @saddlescot

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CHINA - PART 1

but you can pay as a little as Y10 or Y15 per day in big cities, like Beijing. However, most outlets will ask for a substantial deposit of around Y500.

Beijing is an enigma, it’s one of my favourite cities, I am both intrigued and dismayed by the fact that poverty is acceptable and sits bizarrely comfortable with the money and luxury of the mega rich. The Hutongs are dominated by the humble bike, with brightly decorated rickshaws around every corner. I understand that they are all part of the tourist trade, providing visitors with a stereotypical view of China, and Beijing. Cynically it does mean that the real China is slightly overshadowed by the rather romantic image that they evoke but for the locals I recognise it’s a method of generating a moderately good income, in-comparison to most of the populace. However, it was obvious there were less bicycles on the roads since my last visit, was this due to the typically British weather? or more about choice being available for the residents especially with important issues, like convenience and safety. Or controversially is it down to the levels of pollution, we had previously visited in 2012 and on that occasion the smog didn’t appear to be as noticeable, or impact on our health or potential to see the sights.

Today pollution is an ever-present contentious issue, especially in the larger cities, like Beijing and Guangzhou. The smog hangs over these cities almost daily. In 2012 when I was in the capital I had read that the air quality index reading had been analysed and recorded at 2.5 micrometres which in normal-personspeak means it can get into the blood stream and do damage to the respiratory system and on really bad days the level can officially be classed as ‘hazardous’. Many locals would argue that the levels are not too high, it is believed on average, an adult in Beijing inhales the equivalent of just one sixth of a cigarette a day which doesn’t seem a lot.

However, you will still see plenty of cyclists donning rather attractive face masks, so the concerns and dangers are recognised, and preventative measures are deemed a necessity by some. A recent report I read in China Daily (Thurs April 2nd, 2015) stated ‘Vehicles, coal burning, airborne dust and industrial production account for 85% to 90% of the major air pollution sources in most Chinese cities, with vehicles unsurprisingly being the biggest polluters in Beijing, Zhejiang, Guangzhou and Shenzhen.

Beijing city’s new Air Quality Contingency Plan recently released a new pollution red alert with a lowered threshold, these alerts have been simplified in this new plan. They will be issued after the city’s pollution level 5 reaches

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between 201 and 200 on the Air Quality Index (AQI) for a certain number of days. A blue alert will be issued if its predicted that Level 5 pollution will descend on the capital for one day, a yellow alert will be issued if two days is likely and so. A red alert, which was previously used when there were three consecutive days of Level 6 pollution with an AQI reading over 300, will now be used when a Level 5 pollution situation is predicted to continue for more than three days. The authorities obviously feel there is a growing issue around the City’s air quality, which is why they are planning to ban vehicles with even and odd numbered licence plates from the roads on alternate days (when it issues a pollution red alert). Also 30% of cars owned by government agencies will also be banished from the same roads and some factories and corporations will also be required to limit or suspend production as part of the new emergency measures. This can only be a positive step in addressing the issue of air quality especially for the exposed cyclists. Personally I would be interested to see the true figures on cycling for a pastime as opposed to cycling as an essential form of transportation (if only 1% of the populace pedalled for fun, that would equate to over 13 million, at times it’s difficult to contemplate the country’s vast size) The Lycra market must be flagging (likely to be dead in the water, I reckon), I was in Beijing for two days and I saw only a handful of cyclist wearing the stuff, the majority obviously pedal as part of their daily lifestyle but even then the quantity on the roads appeared to have depleted since my last visit. I still find it astonishing and hilarious how they are happy to overload their bikes with all manner of things, tables, chairs, actually any form of furniture (big or small) seem to be the most popular, however anything goes!

Next up was Xian, 1,000 Kilometres inland and west of the Capital. A great place to cycle and very popular with tourists is the magnificent City Walls. However, most people associate Xian with the stunning Terracotta Warriors but the highlight for any keen cyclist is pedalling along the 13.7 KM of the ancient wall. Many visitors initially feel let down by the modern metropolis considering its magnificent legendary status and legacy.

It was at the heart and terminus of the Silk Road and has a diversity of ethnic minorities unmatchable in China. Its glory days are over, however plenty of this rich heritage is still present, if you are prepared to venture out and explore. There are plenty of places to hire bicycles on the wall and the price is extremely cheap in comparison to western prices. Y45 (approximately 4.50) gets you a reasonable robust bike, the surface is bumpy, but the views are well worth a sore derrière, intricately and vibrantly colours roof tiles, gilded cornices and the simple naivety of the lifestyle steeped

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in history and basic pleasures on offer.

However, on this trip the weather was misbehaving so typically British, cold, windy and wet, just like a summer back home. So, we missed the wall initially in favour of the Big Goose Pagoda (and got bloody soaked!)

Alleluia, the next day brought fairer weather, even a chink of sun was visible but only just. So, we ventured tentatively towards the stunning ancient City Wall which is not only the most complete city wall that has survived in China, it is also one of the largest and most complete ancient military defence systems in the World. This was my second visit to this magnificent fortification which was built during the reign of Hong Wu, the first Emperor of the Ming Dynasty. On that occasion the rain was incessant, the experience not too enjoyable but still undeniably memorable. Today the weather was markedly better so myself, my ever-patient wife and two of my five children agreed to hire two tandems and pedal along a part of the wall, I assured them the experience would be unforgettable. So, with the adults in front and the kids holding up the rear (ideally placed for the occasional bout of flatulence) we set off from the East Gate. The surface is in relatively good condition, considering its age, with the odd missing section or uneven stones but the surprisingly adequate suspension coped with any deviations,

protecting the exposed buttocks. The wall affords some stunning views, the inner section is dominated by traditional buildings and the outer a mass of high-rise modernity, shimmering in the sunlight. There were plenty of others experiencing the wall by bike and there was no lack of places to hire. However, if you are feeling truly lazy you can be whisked around in a golf cart which is significantly more expensive and less rewarding. As we made good progress, the unimaginable became a reality, could we cycle the whole 13.7km in the allotted time (just over an hour). Why not? If we worked together it was a definite possibility so with an increased determination we pushed on, our legs resembling the precision of pistons in full flow. Back in time the wall originally enclosed 83sq km, an area actually seven times larger than the city centre, now that would have been a step to far!

We stopped occasionally in the shadows of several ornate look out towers, the vibrant decoration so mesmerising. The weather was still behaving, the city is one of my personal favourite Chinese cities to cycle, there are so my magnificent historical sites in close proximity, the City Walls, The Big Goose Pagoda, The Little Goose Pagoda and the Shanxxi Museum and exploration by bike is especially easy due to the city bike scheme that is in place providing an abundance of strategically sited access points.

This was in-fact my first experience of a tandem, it was a revelation, the concept is great and allows all to participate regardless of experience or ability.

However, the only negative is that the rear rider can choose to pedal or not, dependent on their laziness level, take note Rosie who used this get-out-clause like an expert.

The 13.7 km was achieved relatively easily, and we all felt surprisingly refreshed from the experience, mainly because we didn’t stretch ourselves and pedalled at a comfortably steady pace.

This allowed us to immerse in the culture and history of the city, it’s a wonderfully unusually way to see the interaction between the modern and the traditional and I would recommend the ride to any visitors, whether cyclists or not.

Another woe on Chinese roads is the increasing problem of congestion with nearly a third of the world’s 50 most congested cities being in China, according to a report released

by TomTom, the global leader in navigational and mapping products and based on GPS measurements from the company’s traffic database. This is another example of the why the bicycle is a great, healthy and convenient alternative to the daily chaos on the urban roads.

MAY 2020 BIKE MAGAZINE 31

BELGIUM

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32 BIKE MAGAZINE MAY 2020

HUNGARY

Destination

Lake Balaton THE HUNGARIAN SEA BY BICYCLE

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HUNGARY

Lake Balaton is one of the best thing what you can find in Hungary. Balaton is the largest lake in Central Europe and the most popular part of Hungary. It is excellent for swimming and cycling. The northern shore has hills and the most beautiful region with meadows, forests and ravines.

The area is well known for its white and red wines. The wildlife is extremely rich and the landscape is unique in many ways.

Bike tour On the bike path you can circle this Hungarian lake in one day. The path is about 210 kilometres in length.

The road is mostly flat however there are smaller and larger hills. All the way is not so dreary area except the north parts. Following the path there are little villages and towns about 2-3 kilometres apart a where you can buy more provisions if needed.

The inhabited area gives us a special experience. Every little villages and towns have different feelings and can give you special products and buzzes. The main period is from May to September. There are buffets restaurants and refreshment rooms especially in the main season.

Tourists are mainly there to swim in the Balaton and enjoy the summer.

Most catering units do not operate

between October and March. If you do not have local knowledge but want to go you need to prepare in advance. No need to worry if you are not visiting Lake Balaton in the main season, all basic cycling needs can be found in every petrol station .

The distance is not small and this could easily be a one big day trip.

It may take a while to complete the full circle around the lake so make sure your speed is around 15-20 km/h. If you are in a good shape you can easily complete this trip. It is a good idea to make this average speed if you want to finish your oneday bicycle trip in time. You can finish your trip within 11 hours however if you take regular breaks it can be more than 15 hours. Best time to start is around 6am. Of course not only the

Karoly Nagy He is very passionate about traveling and cultural impacts. His studies connect to HR and community organization. Karoly has been working on lot of projects in different fields.

Motto: Find your own way and never give up!

Email: karolynagyofficial@gmail.com

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enjoyment of the landscape and the sights will dominate. A good idea is to start this journey with someone on the same lever of cycling training.

What to prepare Due to the good infrastructure there is no need for stocking on snacks, toiletries and change clothes. You can leave your unnecessary things at the accommodation. An additional benefit of the one-day trip is that you only have to take with you what you will need for that day. You only need a bottle of water, map, wallet, and a phone.

The most important is the bottle of water so make sure you have it at the start of the trip but you can buy in the shops and all train stations. One more thing - make sure your bike has a holder for your bottle. This can be very handy. The water is also very practical not just for drinking but good help in the summer heat. Inner tube and pump can be very useful but if you do get in need you can ask for help at the petrol stations.

Just wear comfortable clothes.

Advice Before departure start the day with a rich breakfast and after that complete the first 35-55 kilometres without stopping.

The best way is to have breaks every 20 kilometres. You have to eat many times throughout the day but don’t eat heavy food. This is not the right time to break your pancake record. Eat fruits and foods with high carbs and some salty snacks. Banana and salmon are good choice while almonds and blueberries are perfect for snacking.

From personal experience Tihany and Szigliget are the most spectacular towns around the lake. Balaton can give you an unforgettable experience with a lot of excitements. Be brave and make your own record with this one-day bicycle ride.

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HUNGARY

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THE BICYCLE DIARIES

TOURING

The Bicycle Diaries

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One woman’s solo cycle from London to Tehran: Stage 4

I don’t realise I’ve crossed from Italy into Slovenia until all the signs suddenly start appearing in mirror writing. ‘Restavracija, okusna hrana!’ says one, beside a picture of an enormous slab of bloodied flesh. ‘Nevaren cestni odsek!’ cries another, alongside a faintly alarming illustration of a motorcyclist flying spreadeagled through the air. You’re in the Balkans now, the country seems to declare. No more of those metrosexual Mediterranean pansies!

Slovenia certainly feels far less Italian than Austro-Hungarian. This perhaps isn’t surprising, considering most of it was under Habsburg rule for the best part of 600 years, until 1918. Terracotta tiles blaze under a bleached sky, each village a Technicolor smattering of reds, yellows, greens and blues. From above, I imagine it must look like a giant painter’s palette.

Occasionally, a hunched old crone will appear, a basket or broom clutched in a shrivelled claw. They are so quintessentially peasantlike that I can’t help wondering if they’ve been placed here for the tourists – just as I had my suspicions about that reassuringly cantankerous hotelier in Dieppe.

Maybe countries feel a duty to fulfil a few cultural clichés on their border, just to ensure foreigners don’t leave disappointed.

I have decided to call my bike Maud, by the way. The name comes

from this loveable beast, whose endearing violent streak reminds me fondly of my Kona. I’m not entirely sure why it’s a girl, considering I’ll be intimately astride her for the best part of eight months. But at least this arrangement may prove more palatable to the Iranian imams.

My first stop in Slovenia is Postojna, where I deposit my things in a campsite so I can walk to the famous caves nearby. Outside, they prove to be a disappointment, surrounded by the usual glut of tawdry tripe that infects most popular tourist attractions. Inside, however, they are breathtaking: a vast, craggy Hades of stalagmites and stalactites, formed three million years ago by the Plivka River.

It’s a macabre lair, the landscape a taut cadaver skin of rock draped on rock. But there’s life here too. There’s the cute if hapless troglodytic olm, for a start: a ‘neotenic’ creature that keeps most of its juvenile features into adulthood, and with which I can’t help feeling a natural affinity.

There’s also water everywhere, ebbing and flowing, carving and eroding. Stalagmites, formed from dissolved calcite dripping from the ceiling, are testament to its dogged patience, growing just one inch in 40 years. I look on in awe and envy.

If only my thighs would grow so slowly.

I see a chicken down here, as well

Rebecca Lowe Rebecca Lowe, a human rights journalist, started a 10,000km, 20-country ‘bummel’ through Europe and the Middle East in July.

Her aims are threefold: cultivate a pair of toned, shapely calves that will be the envy of all she meets; survive; and shed light on a region long misunderstood in the West.

Find out more about Rebecca’s Journey Twitter: reo_lowe (https://twitter.com/reo_lowe) Facebook group: The Bicycle Diaries (https://www.facebook.com/ bexbicyclediaries/)

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as two pterodactyls and a camel. I also spot several goblins and monkeys, and phalluses everywhere. If the place is a giant Rorschach test, then I think I have problems. Our guide keeps me focused with a flow of excitable superlatives. We are, at various points, at the ‘highest point’ of the tour, and the ‘lowest point’; at the ‘thickest part’ of the roof, and the ‘thinnest part.’ As I’m wondering if he’s the ‘most superlative’ guide the caves have to offer, we happen upon ‘the most beautiful stalagmite’ – and, to give him his due, it probably is.

From Postojna, I make my way to Ljubljana, the capital. I arrive harbouring some impressively uninformed preconceptions, and am expecting something rather forlorn and hopeless; some kind of drab embodiment of post-Communist disenchantment, with wisps of grey at the temples. What I find is an attractive, bustling, modern metropolis. When I ask a cafe if it has wifi, I receive a look of hurt incredulity. In fact, they have three: two citywide networks, plus their own (take note, France!)

The city has a compassionate side too. It’s heavy on bike lanes, recycling bins and signs telling people to ‘drink tapwater.’

Even the graffiti has a kindly edge, stating ‘refugees welcome’ and ‘stop repression’.

These things are all sadly counteracted by the morally questionable policy of serving wine in 100ml thimbles, however, which surely does little to discourage the dangerous spread of sobriety among society.

It is dark by the time I reach my host’s house, around four miles outside the centre.

His flat is basic but comfortable, and I have a room to myself, which feels wonderfully decadent. M- is an accountant, and we talk over grapes and cold red wine. I learn that Slovenians are not too keen on the Italians.

They spend most of their time sleeping and preening, he says, and were weak-willed enough to support both sides in World War Two (‘you can’t have it both ways!’)

The Germans appear to have been forgiven, on the other hand, and are now seen as a beacon of economic aspiration. ‘This was a main reason we wanted independence,’ M- tells me. ‘As part of Yugoslavia, we were earning all this money for Bosnia and Serbia, who are much more like the Italians and threw it all away.’

So I think I’ve grasped it. The Italians don’t like the Germans; the Slovenians don’t like the Italians; the French don’t like anyone; and the Germans like everyone who plays

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THE BICYCLE DIARIES

by their rules. The Slovenians have good relations with their neighbouring Croatians, however, give or take a few niggly border disputes. ‘They are our brothers,’ M- says.

‘There’s a common language and culture there.’

The next day, I venture into town to sample my first kranjska klobasa (Carniolan sausage) – a plump anaconda of pork, garlic, salt and pepper – and meet a friend who heads one of Slovenia’s leading human rights NGOs. She tells me about the ‘erased’: the 26,000 people denied Slovenian citizenship on independence, despite living their whole lives in the country. Half remain stateless now. ‘It took ten years to break public opinion and show that these people weren’t enemies of the state,’ she says. ‘It’s now seen as a human rights issue, but we have a long way to go.’

As a newly signed-up hobo, I’ve had a tiny taste of the impact of prejudice on the ego. Grubby, haggard and surviving on a shoestring, I know I am frequently being weighed up and judged by the people I meet. Yet I am white, British and middleclass, with a huge support network. And I am here by choice. I could brush my matted locks and rejoin the civilised folk of the township anytime I like. How it feels for people destined for society’s scrapheap, I have no idea. It must be bloody awful.

The Roma are a case in point. An itinerant ethnic group originating from South Asia, they have historically faced discrimination almost everywhere they have settled. In Slovenian, nearly a third of Roma settlements have no water supply, according to my friend, while 40 per cent have no electricity. Harassment at school is common, and drop-out levels high.

In my experience, the Roma are the line where social liberalism ends. Even hessianwearing, hemp-smoking beatniks with flowers in their hair and peace in their heart struggle to find a kind word. They are uneducated, unemployed, unlawful, unclean and unrestrained when it comes to spawning offspring, it is said. And much of this is true, to an extent. But if you believe that no ethnicity is born to be a societal burden, you have to ask: what came first, the problem or the prejudice? And where will the cycle end if the latter continues unchecked?

After a brief visit to Ljubljana Castle, where I consider replacing my Brooks saddle with a couple more compassionate-looking alternatives on offer in the torture exhibition, I go on my way. Surprising myself, I decide to shun the easy route for the hilly one. This is partly by choice, partly by a subtle hint

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of peer pressure from M-. ‘You can go the interesting way,’ he says. ‘Or you can go the flat way by the river, where you’ll die of boredom.’ He does own a lycra onesie, however, so is almost certainly not to be trusted.

But it’s good advice, as it turns out. Twenty miles of dullness is rewarded by acres of radiant fields, toy box houses, elegant churches and bursts of crimson blooms. After a lengthy lunch stop, I arrive in Novo Mesto, in the centre of the wine-growing Krka Valley, by late afternoon.

Settling down in a bar for a drink, I casually enquire what local wines are on offer — and suddenly find myself presented with four large, complimentary ‘taster’ glasses by the bar owner.

Ah Slovenia, I think, a country after my own heart (and probably much of my liver too).

While getting completely, ill-advisedly sloshed, I learn everything there is to know about the Slovenian wine industry. Almost everyone in the region has around 250 vines, apparently, and produces their own wine. The speciality of area is the light red Cviček, the only wine in the world other than the Italian Chianti made from both red and white grapes. It cannot be more than ten per cent proof ‘for medicinal reasons,’ and is refreshing and dry, with a hint of sweet berry. Predictably, the French hate it.

I rather enjoy it. But after six hours on the bike, my palate is admittedly more forgiving than most. I am less keen on the local cocktail miš-maš, however: a concoction of red wine and orange Fanta that has the hue of a bloodied urostomy bag.

It’s dark and I am thoroughly hooned when I finally harness Maud to ride the last few miles to Otočec. By the time I arrive, the campsite barrier is firmly locked and nobody is around.

It’s nothing a little light trespass and athletic limbo can’t solve, however, and by 10pm I am

tucked cosily inside my tent.

The next morning, I head for Croatia. It’s a lovely cycle, as houses blend into barns and cattle sheds, and gardens into allotments and arable land. Hot wafts of manure ebb and flow, while cows look demure and pretend it’s nothing to do with them. By mid-morning, I am in a thoroughly good mood, and am just ruminating on the quite remarkable achievement of a borderless Europe when a burly policeman stops me in my tracks, looking gruff.

‘Where are you going?’ he says.

‘How did you get here?’ Well, technically by squeezing through those inconvenient road blocks around the corner, which had a nice, bike-sized opening in the middle, but I decide not to go into detail. ‘Why, is there a problem?’

I ask pleasantly. There is, as it turns out. Unbeknownst to me, there is indeed a border between Slovenia and Croatia. The latter is not yet in the passport-free Schengen zone, apparently, despite being in the EU – unlike Switzerland, which is in the zone despite not being in the EU. How very confusing.

This is not the official crossing, however, so I have inadvertently entered the country illegally: my second foray into criminality in just 24 hours, both of which I have rather enjoyed. I ready myself for an ear-bashing, but when the guard sees my British passport, his tone changes. ‘Ah London. I love London! Have you cycled from there?’ It’s not the first time I’ve made a friend based solely on where I am from — a piece of tremendous good luck, in which I played no part whatsoever — and I suspect it won’t be the last.

As I make my way to the official crossing and am waved swiftly through, I reflect on what it must be like to have no nationality, no freedom, no formal identity. To be erased. It is surely not a fate to be wished on anyone.

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EDINBURGH

Destination

Scotland

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So, as I sat on a flight up to the Scottish capital on what could only be described as a Cortina with wings (and more worryingly propeller’s) I tentatively approached the topic of cycling in the city with my wife of one day, Sarah.

Ok, I admit not the most tactful of propositions considering we were only a couple of hours into our honeymoon but surprisingly she communicated a resounding thumbs up, even more reason to recognise I had made a fine choice of soulmate. This was my first visit to Edinburgh, although not Scotland, and my hope was to find a city brimming with history, culture, fine food and hopefully some fine weather.

My initial thought as we alighted the Airlink bus was ‘What a City!’

An assault on my eyes and ears, around every corner stood an historic sculpture or dazzling monument, all stunning and captivating. We quickly located our hotel, strategically placed just of Princes Street, in the shadows of the Nelson Monument, which sits imposingly amongst the greenery of Calton Hill.

The early morning roads are dominated by buses with the sporadic cyclist dwarfed by these metal monsters. The city bustling, the noise of bagpipes, animated soft accents and those buses, they clog the thoroughfares, the congestion incessant at times. However, the city has an indescribable magic, its brimming with people but somehow it maintains a rather rural feel, it’s spectacularly surreal. Everywhere a friendly face clad in tartan greets you, proudly promoting the joys of their home city. The daily reminder that you are in the capital comes in the form of the Scott Monument. It casts a domineering shadow over the commercial district of Princes

Street. Yet surprisingly this area is in fact home to some glorious green open spaces which actually belie its urbanised prominence, crammed with disturbingly expensive designer shops.

The first thing to do was track down a bike, and the tourist office on Princes Street were extremely helpful in identifying several worthy contenders, as well as plying me with a bulky supply of local cycle routes. I opted for Cycle Scotland located on Blackfriars Street, just off the cobblestoned Royal Mile. The owner Pete was a likeable eccentric chap with long flowing hair and an endless repertoire of animated tales about past cycle journeys and experiences. He was especially passionate about his trips to the Highlands and beyond. His bike hire business has been running successfully for many years and offers bespoke individually tailored cycle tours around Edinburgh, and wilderness tours of the Highlands and Islands, as well as canoe and Kayak excursions. The shop is an Aladdin’s cave of bikes, Lonely Planet guides and a dizzying array of general cycling paraphernalia. My kind of place!

We agreed that I should take a sturdy hybrid and as I departed, he thrust a laminated map in my direction. He was adamant of its qualities and ensured I would have an intense experience. The map intricately detailed a route up to and around Arthur’s Seat and then back towards the city following the evocatively named ‘Innocent Railway cycle path’. On my way back to my

Scot Whitlock Twitter: cadencemag Website: cadencemag.co.uk Author, ‘Simple Words from the Saddle, Simply More Words from the Saddle & The Way of St James’ Twitter: @saddlescot

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hotel, I encountered plenty of cyclists, young, old, business and student types. All appeared comfortably adept at weaving in and out of the traffic, oblivious to the dangers of the constant flow of trams and buses.

I was up early the next morning, I couldn’t contain my eagerness to get out and explore after Pete’s enthusiasm. My route took me briefly along the rather unusually deserted Princes Street, passing the exquisite statue dedicated to the Duke of Wellington (which always has a seagull sat atop his head, regardless of weather or time of day) before halting briefly by the Scott Monument.

Its Victorian Gothic construction is spellbinding; the tower is 200ft 6” high and has a series of viewing platforms reached by a collection of spiral staircases. The highest platform is reached by ascending 287 steps and has been eloquently described as looking like a “Gothic rocket ship”.

Next, I approached a slight incline as I made my way towards the Royal Mile. Again, this was relatively deserted as I headed east towards the Palace of Holyrood house. I paused briefly by the ornate gates to the palace before continuing on past the parliament building and into the glorious remoteness of Holyrood Park. The stunning views of Margaret’s Loch and the ruins of St Andrew’s chapel set into the hillside were hypnotising. It was astonishing that only a few moments previous I was negotiating the urban metropolis of Scotland’s capital.

What followed was a gradual but not testing climb amid a riot of birdsong and vibrant greenery, the occasional jogger my only company. At Dunsapie Loch the map steered me towards a path and the ascent to Arthur’s Seat. I left the bike secured to a tree and continued on foot. The twisting flowing trail was in good order and after a substantial trek I arrived at Arthur’s Seat, the stark beauty and panoramic views took my breath away. This is the highest point in the park and is a dormant volcano which sits 251 metres above sea level. After a lengthy rest surveying the city, I descended and continued onwards and upwards. I was following the Salisbury crags which are a series of 150ft cliff faces and again the views were superb especially of the city and the castle, lending its distinctive imprint to the skyline. I felt that I could reach out and touch the buildings, so captivating.

Once I had descended fully, I followed the road towards Duddington village which contoured the Loch, the sun dancing off the water. The village is a lovely quaint place and I stopped by the gate to the Manse. Pete from the bike shop was so passionate about a secret garden hidden from the roadway behind the walls. What a find, the mystical stillness was absorbing; the only sound was me clumsily negotiating the intricate lawns and flower beds with my cumbersome transport. Dr Neil’s garden (its official title) was a mass of floral delights, shades of vibrant

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colour and perfumes mixed seamlessly with stunning views and sounds of the neighbouring Loch. It’s well worth a visit especially for the tranquillity and complete isolation. A genuinely compelling experience.

I reluctantly departed and was on the hunt for the ‘Innocent Railway’ a disused railway line which runs through the countryside back to the city. The path runs from the Newington/St Leonards area under Holyrood Park via Duddingston and Craigmillar to Brunstane in the East of the city and is part of the NCN route 1. It’s believed the Edinburgh and Dalkeith Railway (opened in July 1831) earned its nickname ‘the Innocent Railway’ due to its safety record. It carried 300,000 to 400,000 passengers a year without any fatalities.

The route took me through a wondrous green corridor, to my left was the soothing sounds of the Loch and my right was dominated by sumptuous views of Arthur’s seat, the volcanic rock ignited with the bright sunlight as it caught the reflection of the sun.

All perfectly complemented by an abundance of floral displays evoking a wonderful summery feeling.

I then encountered the somewhat less inviting and slightly eerie surroundings

of the tunnel (Pete had informed me that they even hold parties in this rather unwelcoming setting). The tunnel is 556 yards (518m) long, 20ft (6.1m) wide and 15ft (4.6m) high. The arched roof is lined with Craigleith stone and it was completed in 1829. It was one of the earliest railway’s tunnels in the world.

Thankfully the route was fairly well lit and I made my way tentatively through the damp interior. Eventually I appeared into some glorious sunshine and headed towards the city centre.

As I made my way up towards the castle, I was distracted by the passionate melody of the bagpipes which appeared to resonate from every street corner. The city is easily accessible by bike or foot, the tram service is excellent, convenient and cheap. The service runs from both the airport and the train station into the heart of the city. Cyclists are well catered for with a collection of on and off-road cycle routes which are well signed and well maintained.

After following several cycle paths, I reacquainted myself with the Royal Mile enroute to Edinburgh Castle. If I am being slightly critical, the road surface in and around the Royal Mile and just off Princes Street is considerably hard work due to the presence of cobbles

(just ask Sarah, later in the day I tried to give her an impromptu backie, her bum will never be the same). This area is cluttered with chic artisan boutiques and cafes. The approach to the castle is stunning especially as you negotiate the grandstand that hosts the Military Tattoo. The queue to buy tickets was long and laborious but the castle and its museums were adequate recompense.

The laidback experience considering the crowds was welcoming and loads of fun especially the firing of the one o’clock gun which I found unexpected even though I was expecting it. The gun is fired as a time signal precisely at 13:00 every day, except Sunday, Good Friday and Christmas Day. It was originally established in 1861 as a signal for ships in the harbour of Leith and the Firth of Forth. The castle is a constant procession of museums dedicated to a collection of army battalions, the exhibits interesting and informative. The location of the historic fortress sat on Castle Rock dominates the Edinburgh skyline and is now in the care of Historic Scotland.

It’s the country’s most visited paid tourist attraction, with over 1.2 million visitors each year and provides a perfect snapshot of the City’s past

MAY 2020 BIKE MAGAZINE 47

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48 BIKE MAGAZINE MAY 2020

SPAIN

CYCLING IN ANDALUCÍA

Written by Nadiah Aziz

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SPAIN

Growing up reading about the history of the Mediterranean and thanks to my love of Flamenco music, a visit to Spain has always been at the back of my mind. After our trip to Japan last year, we were longing to venture back into the open roads, and the remaining question was about where to go.

After plenty of research and Nadiah’s mental prodding for me to go explore Europe, the idea of Spain came into the picture almost immediately! Not only will I get to visit the birthplace of Flamenco, but the idea of immersing ourselves in the culturally and historically rich setting of Andalucía while on a cycling tour piqued the senses.

When we arrived, we made friends with the wonderful folks at Cycling Country (special thanks to Geoff and Maggi who are awesome) who provided an excellent itinerary for us to explore the pueblo blancos of Al-Andalus – The White Villages of Andalucía.

Our journey began in Granada, nestled at the foot of the Sierra Nevada mountains and home to the Alhambra, the crown jewel of Spanish Andalucía antiquity. We explored the many beautiful views of old Granada from the Albaycin, and even had a little adventure into the Sierra Nevada.

The actual cycling tour was not lengthy in terms of days, but the amount of elevation we experienced was enough to give us an appreciation of the beautiful countryside. For this trip, I opted to go with the Change Bike with 700c wheels to cover the distances faster, which also helped when overcoming long climbs..

The first stage of our journey began at the doorstep of Hotel Los Angeles in Granada, where we woke up to blue skies and a healthy does of sunshine to keep us warm back in November.

Stage 1 - Granada to Alhama Start Granada Finish Alhama Distance 58km Climbing 930m Grade Medium/Hard Dean, from Cycling County, greeted us at our hotel and made sure that we had all the information we needed to start our self guided tour. We had maps and cue sheets ready, and after a quick pressure check of our tyres, we were ready to jump on the saddle!

Out from the hotel, we made our way westwards, weaving between the smaller urban roads and footpaths until we found ourselves at the urban border of Granada.

From there, we followed the bike path that runs alongside the Rio Genil as we rode out of

the southern region in sunny Spain.

At the end of the bike path, we continued onwards to small country roads, traveling through the many small agricultural villages that make up the landscape of the Genil Valley. We passed through the small village of Vegas de Genil and stopped there for a late lunch right before the Spanish siesta.

After an extremely pleasant lunch of calamari and pollo, we continued our travels along the quiet roads and admired the lush farmlands around us – olives, wheat and corn. There were plenty of rolling hills that gave us quite a workout as we continued with several slow and steady climbs.

We cycled past the villages of La Malaha and Escuzar and bid farewell to the Sierra Nevada mountains behind us. From this point

“We were easy prey.

Two tired cyclists all alone in the dark” onwards, the roads and landscape started getting more hilly and we found ourselves slowly transitioning to our climbing gears and keeping them there.

We traveled through many more small farming villages, and after riding through Ventas de Huelma, we continued again into the open countryside – and even more hills! The downhill parts were extremely enjoyable as we soaked in the scenery and the breeze and, of course, this gave our legs a break before we mentally prepared ourselves for the next climb.

We managed to catch the final rays of sunlight from the fading golden hour and tried our best to keep our pace while continuing onwards through many more hill climbs. With every view by every minute on the saddle, an Instagram cyclist

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could pretty much hashtag #roadslikethese and #lightbro for everything.

As the sun dipped below the horizon, the temperature started to drop rapidly and my fingerless cycling gloves didn’t cut it anymore. We arrived at the shores of Lake Bermajales right at the start of nightfall and stopped to enjoy the view (and our freezing hands with Merino wool liners!). From the lake, we were able to see the beautiful coastal mountains – the Sierra de Almijara, Tejeda and Alhama.

The bridge going through the Embalse de Los Bermejales would be the last temporary bit of flat riding that we’d experience for the evening. As we approached the end of the bridge and out of the lake, the sunlight had disappeared completely as darkness fell.

The only lights we had were the ones on our bikes, and a tiny bit of moonlight illuminating the landscape around us. When we first continued into the farmland areas and left the lake behind us, it was nice and quiet. We thought it would be a very peaceful ride.

Unfortunately, that tranquility did not last for long.

The climbs became steeper as we moved away from the lake. The coastal mountain range that we saw earlier from the shores of the lake should have served as a strong hint. Both mental and physical fatigue started to creep in, and I believe it was that combination that more or less gave our presence away to the many shepherd guard dogs patrolling the empty farmlands.

We were easy prey. Two tired cyclists all alone in the dark - Nadiah was already frightened and mentally fatigued, so she pretty much had a bullseye painted all over. I had to put in effort for bravado right when one of the bigger shepherd dogs came at me from behind and I had to exert a bit of the alpha status to keep them at bay. All this while climbing through MANY rolling hills. The dogs continued to track and hunt while we continued to cycle as fast as we could through the hilly farmlands. Whenever we stopped to try to make an emergency phone call, we couldn’t get signal, further hearing the tracker dogs catch up from behind us.

Adrenaline was pretty much the only thing that kept us moving!

Right when we thought our legs couldn’t keep going any longer, we felt the gradient of the road slope downwards and we were thankfully gaining speed! At last, we made it through the edge of the hills and enjoyed our victorious swooping descent. We could see the lights of Alhama up ahead – civilization at last!

When we finally reached the base of the hill, we stopped nearby the old Roman bridge which served as the welcoming entrance into Alhama de Granada and, of course, there was a hill climb on the other side into the village. At this point, Nadiah was exhausted beyond belief and we opted to ring up Cycling Country. Geoff came to the rescue and ferried us for the last 1 kilometer of the evening up into our lovely accommodation.

We enjoyed a beautiful evening at La Seguiriya; a rustic and charming place with wonderful food and people.

We opened our eyes the next morning and wished we could enjoy La Seguiriya for a bit longer, but the journey ahead of us beckoned and wanted to make sure we finished before nightfall after last night’s lesson. We had the terrace overlooking the valley below all to ourselves

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for the morning before we once again embarked on our tour.

We stopped by Cycling Country’s shop around the corner from La Seguiriya and met both Geoff and Maggi there. We had a good debrief session about the previous day’s ride, and based on the distances and climbs that we’d be doing for the next few days, we all thought it’d be easier if Nadiah switched to 700c wheels. All the routes that we’d be doing are ideal for road cyclists with 700c wheels, but it would be a bit of a struggle for those riding 20-inch wheels to keep up.

I was doing quite well so far with my Change folding bike with 25mm tyres rolling on 700c wheels. At the shop, there just happened to be a beautiful Orbea carbon road bike that was the perfect size for Nadiah, so she opted to go with that steed for the remainder of our tour. From there, we get a short lift from Geoff in the Cycling Country van to skip past the initial steep hill climb out of the village. We then bid our farewells and began the second stage of our journey.

We had a blast riding down the winding descents of the Sierra de Alhama and arrived at the fertile plains of Zafarraya below. The Zafarraya plains are home to three villages, with the one we cycled through being Ventas de Zafarraya. The Spanish “Ventas” refers to the small inns in the area. Back in the old days, this small village was where traders would often stay and refreshed themselves and their caravan before continuing on their journey.

Beautiful limestone rock formations adorn the landscape surrounding the small village, and we felt a little bit like Frodo and Samwise from Lord of the Rings passing through a hidden passage amidst such epic and majestic mountains.

At the edge of the village lies the Boquete rock formation, which is the first and last known place for European Neanderthal to have lived.

In 1979, this area was recognised as the Cueva del Boquete de Zafarraya, home to the best preserved remains of a 30,000 year old Neanderthal found in Western Europe.

The natural break through this coastal range served as an important trade route during the Moorish Nasrid era in the 10th century where caravans were able to travel back and forth between North Africa and the Iberian peninsula. In fact, on a really clear day, it is possible to see the coastline of Northern Africa and the Straits of Gibraltar from this side of the mountain.

In more recent history, this area was a strategic point where the Republicans fought the Nationalists for control during the Spanish Civil War in 1936. The coastline of Malaga was bombarded by Franco’s troops and thousands were massacred along this coastal route from aerial and mortar attacks. In 1937, the exodus of Malaga saw 150,000 civilians escape to the east to Almeria.

From Zafarraya, we head southwards into the Axarquia and ride through the natural parks of the Malaga mountains.

These mountains have also been witness to many battles and relentless bloodshed between the Muslim and Christian empires as both sides fought for control of Malaga in the 15th century.

As the Christian monarchs won the final battles, the scales tipped in their favour and the Muslim armies were conquered, resulting in the fall of Granada in 1492.

Nonetheless, the days days of battle and bloodshed have been long gone, and it is now a very tranquil region of farmlands and natural parks. Thankfully, today’s route was mostly downhill as we spent the majority of yesterday climbing.

We enjoyed the fast and panoramic descents through the Axarquia and make a pitstop in the small village of Periana for lunch before continuing onwards through fields of wheat and barley before approaching the village of Rio Gordo.

We enjoyed the tranquility of Rio Gordo as we cycled past the quaint pueblo blancos and witnessed a big herd of goats and sheep making their way

through the small canal in the village.

The residents of Rio Gordo enjoy the slow and plentiful life to the fullest extent, with an official “Snail Day” celebration dedicated to this lifestyle.

As we kept going, we certainly felt like snails when climbing out of the valley from Rio Gordo. At this point, we’ve completed all the downhill parts of our journey and it is time to start our ascent again into the mountains. After climbing out of the valley through Rio Gordo, we at last make our way to our final destination of the day – Colmenar.

Nestled within the surrounding mountain ranges that can be seen in the distance, Colmenar is known to the locals as the capital of the mountains! Colmenar is a small agricultural town that is also home to numerous beehives, its name derived from the word colmena which means beehive in Spanish. We made our final ascent and settled in a small family-run inn at the edge of town for the evening.

Luckily, this time, we managed to make it just before sunset!

Although we spent most of the day riding down beautiful descents, the final part of the day was spent climbing back up hills and mountains. As for the next stage heading towards Antequera, this would be one of the most challenging rides to date.

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FRANCE

COGNAC CHILD-FRIENDLY FRENCH TOURING Text and photos by Christine Mcdonnell

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FRANCE

‘Let’s go for a bike ride, children?’ Thoughts of sunny days winding through country lanes with smiling faces go through your mind as you pump the tyres up and chivvy everyone out of the front door. The thing is, that it doesn’t always work out like this. Adults and children will cycle at a different pace, parents are constantly having to watch over their offspring, and what seems like a grand family adventure can turn into a trip to the local park rather than further afield.

For the past fourteen years I have taken over 300 families on week-long holidays. They started with a week on a campsite, but latterly I have been hiring châteaux all over Europe, with the following account being a wonderful week in the Charente Maritime Department of France.

Owned and run by an English couple, Château Clerbise started life as the main house for a Cognac estate, but has been lovingly restored to provide accommodation for forty-two people - the ideal size for eleven families to enjoy a week in the sun. We arrived on Saturday and immediately the children dispersed, mostly into one of the three swimming pools provided, leaving the adults to settle into the place, open a bottle of wine and catch up on life.

The formula to these holidays is simple but very effective. I provide maps, route sheets and gpx files. In return, everyone gathers at 9.30am with their bikes, ready to explore the local area. On Sunday, we headed north to cycle the lanes around Pons. All around were sunflower and maize fields as we headed through Avy and onto Perignac. Nearly all of the families had been on one of these holidays before and so were comfortable in each other’s company but, equally, veryone was welcoming to anyone new. Forty-two on the road sounds a lot but we quickly spread out along the quiet French lanes. Groups formed, mostly children of similar ages and abilities, teenagers at the front and younger ones behind, all under the watchful eye of parents. To me this is the real joy of these holidays. At home children will pedal quite slowly and require encouragement, here even the pre-teens keep up a pace that’s suitable for adults and children alike and can easily cover 30 miles in a day. We lunched by the church at Berneuil, before arriving at Pons and its magnificent Donjon and equally impressive ice creams at the café. Back at the château, the pool filled with children whilst the adults got ready for dinner. Although we could self cater, for a treat we’d hired a cook, so Peter the Danish chef prepared a French meal in the château. Salad, followed by steak and potatoes topped off by a creamy dessert: all very delicious.

Monday took us to Cognac. More sunflower fields and I’m sure the teenagers were even faster than yesterday. Surely the hours on pool inflatables was wearing them out, even slightly? But years of training had taught them to wait at junctions, allowing us to stay together. Cognac was accessed via a quiet route from the west and having taken an off-road track along the river we split for a few hours to explore the town. The trick now was to be the first to spot a good café and order a coffee, as very soon fellow cyclists would converge from all directions. Then back through Ars with its Roman church and inevitable photo opportunity for Facebook, everyone headed back at their own pace to the château for a BBQ and a bit more snooker, as yes, there was a full-sized table.

The coast was close but not quite close enough to allow us to get there and back easily. So on Tuesday we loaded the bikes onto cars planning to start at Epargnes so we could get to the beach. A short drive later with the bikes unloaded, we descended towards the Gironde and the coast. Talmont has

Chateau de Chaumont The fortress of Chaumont-sur-Loire was built around the year 1000 to keep watch over the border between the counties of Blois and Anjou.

It was owned by the Amboise family for a good 500 years, and it was Charles II d’Amboise who turned it into an ornamental château in the Renaissance style, with sculpted decoration becoming the major feature of its outer façades.

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FRANCE

a great ice cream stop. Much like Castle Coombe in Wiltshire, it is a village where tourists mingle around restaurants and gift shops. However, the church by the headland with its graves appearing out of the dirt was a memorable sight.

France is developing a West Coast cycleway and we picked this up heading northwest as it followed the coast along a dedicated hard-packed cycleway. Sheds of stilts with fishing nets littered the coast after which we headed back inland at Meschers, but not for too long as we dived left and down to Suzac Plage where we spent two hours enjoying the sea and sand.

Cutting through the woods and a sandy track, we headed back to Epargnes passing yet more fields of sunflowers with expansive views. Back at the château the adults relaxed on the terrace, wine in hand.

After three days on the bike we rested. Wednesday brought trips to the beach or Decathlon; the mother of all sports shops, but it was the château environs that held most as we relaxed in the sun. I’ve found over the years’, that for family holidays, a day like this is necessary. Not because the children are more tired out, but because they look forward to hanging out with friends. Away go the computer games and out come the footballs as they rediscover childhood pleasures.

Jarnac lies to the east of Cognac with the Charente River flowing through it. We headed here on Thursday with bikes strapped to the cars. From the brightly coloured Town Hall we pedalled east along the northern bank, passing through many small settlements.

Chateauneuf arrived and we dived into its cafés, sending the teenagers out in search of a boulangerie. Coffee and patisseries consumed, we noticed the ideal group shot opportunity, so we lined the steps of the town hall, waved and cameras clicked to record another year passed.

Chateauneuf is a river crossing, so it was close to the southern bank that we now went. Arriving

at the riverbank a jetty presented the perfect picnic spot, so as folk ate their picnics, a number of us tested the water, along with the eels and small fish munching bits of bread. We continued along the riverbank, with its white, hard surface. It was glorious and ended with a push through a field which seemed a fitting end with comedic comments about the Rough Stuff Fellowship ringing in my ears.

Back at Chateauneuf we headed west climbing out of town before a lovely descent back to the valley floor and back to Jarnac. In the evening, washed and scrubbed up, we headed to Pons for a meal at the Café du Donjon where a long table groaned under duck salad, salmon or beef, in the shadow of the enormous floodlit Donjon.

Our last full day and we were finding out that even this far south, Western Europe in August can be a damp place. There was no chance of a cycle ride for some, while seven hardy parents braved the horizontal road – partaking on the route to the coast and loving every minute of it. The children, figuring that the pool was dryer than outside, splashed about with the inflatables whilst the rest played games indoors.

Our final evening arrived. So many cyclists and a snooker table, a competition was inevitable. The snooker tournament neared the end and the semi-finals were a tense affair as randomly selected couples booked themselves into the final for the honour to win a tin of local biscuits for the journey home.

Another holiday soon finished, with all of us wanting to come back next year (these holidays are like that!). Initially they bring together a group of strangers with a common theme. Within a few days that roll into years, friendships are made. The most amazing thing I have noticed is that with a wide range of ages, older children learn to be caring with smaller ones and by their late teens turn into well rounded individuals with the help of these holidays. It’s not just about the bike.

MAY 2020 BIKE MAGAZINE 57

Eat, Sleep, Ride, Repeat.

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