BIKE Magazine - September 2020 by BIKE Magazine

PEAK DISTRICT • CENTRAL ASIA • CYCLING JERSEYS • CYCLING ADVICE

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GIANT’S CAUSEWAY AUGUST 2020

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HISTORY AND MYTH BLURRED ON THE ROUTE OF THE

GIANT’S CAUSEWAY Coast Sportive

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Part One Everybody has a preconceived image of the world-renowned Giant’s Causeway, people just simply pontificate about the geological and mystical presence of this bizarre collection of rocks on the North coast of Northern Ireland, and rightly so. We were here to experience the popular Giant’s Causeway Coast Sportive which takes place annually in June. It’s an unique event based on the iconic North Coast of Ireland offering an unforgettable cycling experience through some of the most breathtaking landscapes. This leisure event is one of the biggest road cycling events in Northern Ireland attracting over 1,100 participants to last year’s event. The entry fee is £40 and this year’s event will take place on Saturday 22nd June 2019, cyclists have the choice of 4 routes (35 miles; 60 miles; 85 miles; 115 miles) which all start and finish in the small rural seaside town of Ballycastle in County Antrim. After flying to Belfast International, we picked up a car and bike provided by Decathlon (organised by Outdoor Recreation NI). The robust B’twin 520 Triban looked the part and thankfully with car hire sorted and bike carefully deposited we set off in search of our base, Ballycastle. After an uneventful 60 mile

drive we arrived in darkness, our accommodation was in a prime location, close to the amenities and the sea. At the door, we were welcomed by the owners of The An Caiselan Guest House (Quay Road, Ballycastle; 028 2076 2845) Berkley and his wife have owned the building or part of the building since 1997. In total there are 17 rooms across three separate properties, once inside the vast expanse was a surprise. Our room was spacious, clean and comfy and keeps an eye on its past and one definitely on its future. Our first task was venture out to eat, the town centre was only a short walk away. A reservation had been made at the cosy, friendly Cellar Restaurant (11b, The Diamond, Ballycastle; 028 2076 3037) centrally located in the diamond. From the street it looks far from alluring, but once inside all our senses were overwhelmed. Generous portions of local simple fare served in intimate surroundings and put together in a faultless contemporary fashion. The next morning after a delicious Irish breakfast, my first task as I left Ballycastle was to climb, the route is well signed. As I ascended, the tops of the grey mundane buildings were replaced by a magnificent azure horizon and sweeping vertiginous landscapes. The coastline of any country is always one of the most evocative locations that any place can be rightly proud of, and the Giant’s Causeway route doesn’t

Scot Whitlock Twitter: cadencemag Website: cadencemag.co.uk Author, ‘Simple Words from the Saddle, Simply More Words from the Saddle & The Way of St James’ Twitter: @saddlescot

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disappoint. The pure Atlantic air is enough to give even the flabby and fatigued an invigorating boost, happiness and clarity will dominate your psyche. As we get older, we stop trying new things because the stakes are too high. We worry about failure and the risk of humiliation, but I find this is not the case with cycling. I like many others continue to return to the roads/trails because its fun, healthy and completely magical when we get it right, and the Giant’s Causeway route is a perfect example of everything that is seductive and right about life on two wheels. I had opted to follow the 60 mile “Across the Coast and Glens” route which leaves Ballycastle east along the coast, the roads were quiet and my cadence was a surprising success. I halted briefly by the entrance to the Rope Bridge at Carrick-a-Rede (119a Whitepark Rd, Ballintoy, Ballycastle) All the locals rave about this dramatic structure which is owned by the National Trust and was first erected by salmon fishermen in 1755. Connected to the cliffs by a rope bridge across the Atlantic Ocean, Carrick-a-Rede Island (home to a single building – a fisherman’s cottage) is the final destination. Suspended almost 100 ft (30 m) above sea level, it’s amazing that the bridge is over 350 years old. There is plenty of bike parking, however the 1km walk from entrance to attraction is not suitable for a bike, or so they tell me. As I continued my concentration was distracted by a constant crescendo of angry white water teasing the shoreline. I sensed I was being watched, okay the steep luscious hillsides have no discernible peepers but I felt my every pedal stroke was being pawed over. I was exposed to a plethora of breathtaking panoramic views, one of the best was of White Park Bay, the bay is guarded at one end by Gid Point and Long Gilbert at the other. The blonde expanse of the beach was completely deserted, the sea was a glorious inviting blue. Dunseverick Castle is only a few

miles from the Giant’s Causeway, its slightly desolate image, is in fact its great attraction. The location is surreal set amongst a collection of bungalows and I stood, completely engrossed in the simple surroundings. It a was a wonderful discovery. It was only a short pedal from the Castle to the Giant’s Causeway (44 Causeway Rd, Bushmills) The car park was overflowing with a mass of coaches, mini-buses and cars – no sign of any other bikes. The visitors centre was heaving with plenty of camera happy tourists, the queues were lengthy and would impact on the overall experience. Our advice is obvious by we recommended you visit between 9am and 11am. or wait until after 4pm, to avoid the crowds Flanked by the wild North Atlantic Ocean and a landscape of dramatic cliffs, for centuries the Giant’s Causeway has inspired artists, stirred scientific debate and captured the imagination of all who see it. The geological wonder consists of an area of about 40,000 interlocking basalt columns, the result of an ancient volcanic fissure eruption. From the Causeway, I headed inland towards Bushmills (yes Bushmills is a town and not just a brand of whiskey). Before no time I had arrived. Bushmills is a normal rural town but with one worldwide attraction, the Old Bushmills Distillery (2 Distillery Rd, Bushmills) The visitors centre is well presented, a tour costs £8 for an adult. The factory is the only distillers of the drink in the world, the tour takes you through all the processes in the production of the much sort after beverage. The acquisition of the malt, the fermentation, the distilling and then the bottling processes are delivered in a wonderful way so that all can understand. In part two we head inland and immerse in the world of ‘Game of Thrones’ Useful Information Facilities Refreshments Ballycastle, Ballintoy, Giant’s Causeway and Bushmills.

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Information for people with a disability

Some information on the Giant’s Causeway Coast Sportive

Contact Ballycastle TIC or The Giant’s Causeway Visitors Centre TIC for opening times.

Route 1 (35 miles / 56km)

Available Publications The Causeway Coast & Glens your guide to cycling, Ballycastle TIC Tel: (028) 2076 2024 Giants Causeway Visitors Centre Tel: (028) 2063 1855 Getting there Belfast International (belfastairport. com) is 19 miles from the city centre, and George Best Belfast City Airport (belfastcityairport.com) is three miles, with regular shuttle buses from both. Stena Line (08447 70 70 70; stenaline.co.uk) sails between Belfast and Cairnryan, and P&O (0800 130 0030; poferries.com) from Cairnryan to Larne. The bus station is on Station Rd, just east of the Diamond. Bus 217 links Ballycastle with Ballymena (£6.70, 50 minutes, hourly Monday to Friday, five Saturday), where you can connect to Belfast. Bus 172 goes along the coast to Coleraine (£6.50, one hour, eight daily Monday to Friday, three Saturday and Sunday) via Ballintoy, the Giant’s Causeway and Bushmills. The seasonal Antrim Coaster bus also stops here. High-speed passenger ferries with Kintyre Express link Ballycastle with Campbeltown, Scotland (one-way/ return £45/80, 1½ hours, one daily June to September). A separate one-hour service runs to Port Ellen on Islay, Scotland (one-way/return £60/95, one hour, one daily June to September). The bike This Triban RC 520 road bike featuring Shimano’s 105 groupset and TRP Hydro disc brakes has been designed with comfort and performance in mind. It’s aimed at road cyclists who like to push that bit harder than the pack, as well as regular commuters. The frame and forks have a new geometry to enhance rider enjoyment, allowing you to ride further and more often.

The Causeway Coaster, 56km route, is a perfect entry level route for those who are new to the sportive scene or who are keen to soak up the Causeway Coast’s spectacular scenery. Starting in Ballycastle the route heads west towards Bushmills via the Coast Road. This circular route is mostly on flat terrain with some hills but is still classed as a challenge with some pre training definitely required. With a feed station located just after half way in, your energy will be kept up to enjoy the stunning inland scenery back to Ballycastle. NEW! Route 2 (60 miles / 96km) The brand new 60 mile “Across the Coast and Glens” Route is ideal for cyclists wanting to step up from the 35 mile route and take in more of the stunning north coast scenery. The route follows the 35 mile and 115 mile beginning, going west towards Bushmills via the Coast Road. Taking in the Dark Hedges, it goes on to cross the magical Glens of Antrim to Glenarm after turning at Armoy and following the 85 mile and 115 mile route in the direction of Cushendall. Here, riders will head north towards Cushendun, where that epic decision awaits you; turn left for the Torr Head bypass and reach Ballycastle after 20km with one long steady climb to finish OR Turn right and the infamous Torr Head Road awaits you. With some epic climbs and hair-raising descents, this option should not be taken lightly. Route 3 (85 miles /134km) *With Route Option to bypass Torr Head* The Glens and Coast Route features the breathtaking rugged coastline and the romantic landscape of the glens. This route is geared towards cyclists who are used to pounding out 80-100km routes on a regular basis. The route begins with a steady climb through the magical Glens of Antrim to Glenarm before heading north along the world famous Antrim coast road. At Cushendun, cyclists have a BIG

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decision to make. As with the 60 mile route, if you turn left you’ll face a long steady climb taking you back into Ballycastle. Or, if you turn right you’ll face the challenge of tackling the epic Torr Head. Full respect to any rider who gives Torr Head a bash! Route 4 (115 miles / 187km) The 187km Giant Killer offers cyclists the chance to cycle through an area of unsurpassed beauty. It is definitely classed as the BIG one and is not for the faint-hearted but for serious cyclists up for a lung-busting challenge. The route starts off by heading west towards Bushmills, along the Coast Road before tackling some reasonably tough, long climbs through the Glens of Antrim. At Glenarm the route follows the coast road all the way back to Ballycastle including the Torr Head Road which is sure to push cyclists of every level right to the limit. Expect to be rewarded with the best scenery on offer along the North Coast of Northern Ireland. Make no mistake this will be a tough day in the saddle with some serious climbs and thrilling descents but for all who complete this challenge it will certainly be a day to remember Part Two From the distillery I headed inland towards the Dark Hedges, well

known to the discerning ‘Game of Thrones’ fanbase. The brand new 60 mile “Across the Coast and Glens” Route is ideal for cyclists wanting to step up from the 35 mile route and take in more of the stunning north coast scenery. I left the ocean views behind as pushed on at pace towards the magical Glens of Antrim. The landscape changed to a more barren, more desolate environment. The horizon dominated by slightly noisy sheep and not much else. I was now completely engrossed in the tranquillity and after a sedate 10 miles I arrived at the otherworldly Dark Hedges. This beautiful avenue of beech trees was planted by the Stuart family in the eighteenth century. It was

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intended as a compelling landscape feature to impress visitors as they approached the entrance to their Georgian mansion, Gracehill House. Two centuries later, the trees remain a magnificent sight and have become one of the most photographed natural phenomena in Northern Ireland. In fact, the iconic trees have been used as a filming location in HBO’s epic series Game of Thrones®, representing the Kingsroad.

in mysterious circumstances centuries ago, or perhaps the daughter of James Stuart, referred to in some genealogy lists as ‘Cross Peggy’, others believe that she is a lost spirit from an old, deserted graveyard that is thought to lie hidden in the fields nearby. On Halloween night, the forgotten graves are said to open and the Grey Lady is joined on her walk by the tormented souls of those who were buried beside her.

In 2017 efforts to protect the trees were put in place and this section of Bregagh Road is now closed to vehicular traffic (with the exception of local landowners, emergency vehicles, and the like). So visitors are no longer allowed to drive through the Dark Hedges or park at the south end of the road as they were in the past. This only adds to the majesty of the surroundings, however no need to fear, there are coach/car parking and toilet facilities available at the Hedges Hotel – a two minute walk away.

As an eerie mist descended I thought it best to move on eastwards towards Armoy. I was now following the 85 mile and 115 mile route in the direction of Cushendall. Here, riders will head north towards Cushendun, where that epic decision awaits the riders; turn left for the Torr Head bypass and reach Ballycastle after 20km with one long steady climb to finish OR Turn right and the infamous Torr Head Road awaits you. With some epic climbs and hair-raising descents, this option should not be taken lightly.

I sat and recalled an article I had read over breakfast about a local ghost story featuring the grey lady, a spectre that glides along the Bregagh Road, sashaying between the gnarled trees. She vanishes from sight when she passes the last tree. Whilst some local people believe she is the ghost of a maid from the nearby house who died

Next stop was Cushendun, what can I say about Cushendun? It was nice enough but not exceptional, I stopped, chatted to several locals before pushing northwards along the dramatic coastline towards Torr Head, as I climbed, visibility was deteriorating, there were occasions when I felt I was completely pedalling into the unknown.

As I continued to climb, the hillside sketched out before me, before I arrived at the giddy heights of Torr Head. There was a mystical stillness in the air, the views of the Mull of Kintyre are usually superb but the mist was misbehaving. This headland was important in the 1800s for recording the passage of transatlantic ships, relaying the information back to Lloyds of London. My concentration was distracted by the waves crashing over the rocks beneath me. The ride back to Ballycastle was relatively easy, the mist finally started to disperse allowing a beautiful vista of the coastline. Expect to be rewarded with the best scenery on offer along the North Coast of Northern Ireland. Make no mistake this will be a tough day in the saddle with some serious climbs and thrilling descents but for all who complete this challenge it will certainly be a day to remember.

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#HEALTH BIKE-MAG.COM

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I have created this column for you to introduce health tips, share knowledge and give you advice on how to improve your health or how to live a healthier life. The main focus on nutrition for people who are interested in sports, especially cycling. This column will be in every edition and I will write about two topics. The last edition was about #cucumber and #pineapple.The two superfoods this time are #eggplant and #applecidervinegar.

Karoly Nagy He is very passionate about traveling and cultural impacts. His studies connect to HR and community organization. Karoly has been working on lot of projects in different fields. Motto: Find your own way and never give up! Email: karolynagyofficial@gmail.com

#eggplant The eggplant is similar to the cucumber. Why? They are both fruits and vegetables. Eggplants are related to the tomatoes and potatoes. Mainly cultivated its edible fruit. We need to be careful with unripe eggplants because itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s poisonous and not edible. We can find different species with different colours from the white to yellow and green and even with various shapes and skins. The most popular is the dark purple eggplant. Basically the eggplants contain seeds, but we can discover types without seeds at the market. The fruitsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; lengths depend mainly on the species. This vegetable spoils easily and we can store it for 4-5 days. Use it carefully.

Fun fact: The unripe eggplants are poisonous. This was the reason why this vegetable spread was difficult around the world. 100g raw eggplant contain: - 25 calories - 1g of protein - 0g of fat - 0mg of cholesterol - 2mg of sodium - 6g of carbs: 3g of sugar - 229 mg of potassium

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BENEFITS

Weight loss

Vitamins and antioxidants

It is an excellent support in controlling your appetite, burning more fat and helps in the weight loss process.

The eggplant contains lots of vitamins and minerals, especially vitamin K, vitamin C, iron, fibre, magnesium, folate, sodium, phosphorus and potassium. Eyes health With the antioxidants help this vegetable gives a perfect support to the eyes. It supports the eye’s vision.

Heart health It can maintain the normal blood pressure and reduce strain on the cardiovascular system. It can lower the risk of heart diseases.

Did you know? If you want to burn 25 calories just cycle for 3 minutes.

#recipe

Directions

Eggplant cream with toast

Step 1

Prep: 15 mins

Wash the eggplants and cut in half. Put the four half eggplants in the oven for 20 minutes and cook it on low heat. After cooking, let it cool down for 10 minutes.

Cook: 20 mins Total: 65 mins Servings: 4

Ingredients:

Step 2 Crave out the eggplants from its skin and place it in a mid-size bowl. Peel the onions and cut them into very small pieces and put in the cream. Add the salt, the black pepper and the mayo to the cream. Mix it well and taste it. If you need some more of the ingredients, just add more.

•

2 eggplant

•

1 purple onion

•

1 garlic

Smash the cream with a hand mixer for 2 minutes and then put it in the fridge for 45 minutes.

•

1 teaspoon black pepper

Step 4

•

1 teaspoon salt

•

2 tablespoon mayo

•

8 toast bread

Make 8 toast bread to the cream and after 45 minutes you can enjoy them together. You can serve it with some fresh vegetables this healthy and delicious food.

Step 3

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#applecidervinegar Apple cider vinegar is a type of vinegar made from apples. It’s similar to apple cider but without alcohol. It’s basically fermented apple juice. The sugars from the apple are fermented over time and turned into alcohol. The apple cider vinegar is fermented twice to make the non-alcoholic vinegar. It can be use for medicine and material for cooking, especially for salads. It’s available in almost every store. This liquid has been getting more attention nowadays even using it for sick animal treatment.

Fun fact: The apple cider vinegar is a natural medicine for sore throat

#recipe

Directions

Homemade health drink

Step 1

Prep: 8 min Refrigerate: 60 min Servings: 4

Ingredients: •

half lemon

•

1 litre water

•

2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

•

couple of fresh mints

•

1 tablespoon honey

BENEFITS

Heart health

Weight loss

It helps maintain the normal blood pressure and reduce strain on the cardiovascular system. It can lower the risk of heart diseases and might have a positive effect in fighting with cardiovascular disease.

It is an excellent support in controlling your appetite, burning more fat and also, has lots of incredible effects for your hair. It gives a quality support for your body and your digestive system too. Skin care Keep the skin hydrated, moisturised and stay young and supple. Can be used for a toner. It is a natural toner that can help to refresh the skin and fight with acne. (For skin treatment you need to mix with water before apply on skin.)

Add the half lemon juice and the mints in a big pitcher and muddle with a wood spoon. Step 2 Add the 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar and stir it with the honey. Step 3 Fill it with water and put it in the fridge for 60 minutes. After 60 minutes you can enjoy this homemade healthy drink.

#plus Include eggplant and apple cider vinegar to your diet and you will see the good benefits. Be healthy, be happy. SOURCES: Gürbüz, N., et al. (2018). Health benefits and bioactive compounds of eggplant. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0308814618310665?via%3Dihub University of Washington, The Whole U: “Beyond the Hype: Apple Cider Vinegar as an Alternative Therapy.”(2018) Medscape General Medicine: “Vinegar: Medicinal Uses and Antiglycemic Effect.”( 2013)

Vitamins, minerals A great source of magnesium, iron, manganese, phosphorus and amino acids.

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CYCLING ADVICE BIKE-MAG.COM

CYCLING ADVICE

YOUR GO TO CYCLING KIT

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When I was a kid I use to remember just jumping on the mountain bike, helmet on and off cycling with my mates all day around various roads or down the local woods doing jumps, with little thought to the risks of performing dare devil stunts. While the essence of riding hasn’t changed much over the years, the level of caution applied is far greater, having “No Fear” as were my favourite brand of T-Shirts as a kid has somewhat gone, brought on through adult responsibilities, while the sheer quantity of kit taken on a ride has also significantly changed. These days going for a ride requires a little more planning, driven partly, well hugely by how much technology has come along over the years ,with the need to record our rides on our brand of favourite cycling computers and then uploaded post ride to the various cycling platforms, well let’s not be coy, it’s Strava isn’t it? if its’ not on Strava it didn’t happen. Combined with how busy the roads are these days a key element of kit is also based around safety and protecting ourselves. Aside from a helmet as part of your essential cycling kit, while this is always a subject which invokes debate, there is no debate in my repertoire of kit, wearing a lid is mandatory.

Getting ready for a bike ride these days feels a little like packing for a holiday, ensuring you’re prepared, and nothing is missed or forgotten. Having once made the mistake of not getting ready the day before, flying out the door the following morning, my water bottles were forgotten, don’t ask, it just happened. Let’s just say a pair of Evian water bottles purchased at a garage several miles into the ride understandably aren’t designed around fitting very well into carbon bottle cages, rattling about, and worse still on my best aero summer bike didn’t exactly look “cool”, invoking some much deserved mickey taking from fellow group riders. Every rider is different to what they take, some don’t take anything and are happy to rely on a taxi picking them up from wherever their bike suffers a mechanical. While this is certainly a simple and weight saving method, it comes with its challenges, like finding a cab who will take you and your bike, not to mention the cost, especially if you’re many miles from home. Others like myself like to carry an array of kit.

PUNCTURES. Like buses, none for ages then they

Anthony Walstow  @cranksandcake : Admin on Cycling Advice Blog: cranksandcake.com Author: “A passionate cyclist, obsessed about anything aero or tech with an addiction to buying bikes”

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all come at once. Two punctures on a single ride have happened and being prepared was worth its weight in gold. Forget hand pumps, CO2 is where it’s at, inflates in seconds and off you go.

MECHANICAL ISSUES. These can and do happen. Chain snapped? Loose bolt somewhere? You bet when they do happen it will be miles from home. For some bizarre reason on a ride one of the saddle bolts became loose and my seat suddenly tilted up and backwards, making it impossible to ride. Carrying a good multi tool is essential, bolts tightened, and problem fixed. Yes, my inner OCD ensured the offending bolt was correctly torqued when arriving home.

ON BOARD SNACKS. This is key, normally oat and sugar based for slow releasing carbs to provide energy on those long rides to stop the ever looming “bonk”. Try to learn reading your body and fuel before you hit the wall, because once you are at that stage it’s normally too late and difficult to come back from it.

BE SEEN. Most of my rides are done in the day but it cannot be stressed enough to run lights, especially on sunny days, which sounds odd in bright sunlight, but as you dart in and out of overhanging tree canopy it can make a rider difficult to see. Decent rear and front lights are vital.

COVER YOUR BACK (AND FRONT). It’s a good idea to run a cycling light with a camera, such as Cycliq to capture any accidents. While it won’t stop them happening, it certainly will help you with insurance claims and identifying who is at fault, or worse, prosecution from drivers who don’t stop after hitting you. It sounds like a lot to take, but every piece has a perfectly designed purpose, covering all angles on what can and does happen when out on a ride. What’s your go to kit?

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THE

DEFINITIVE CYCLING MULTI-TOOL AS SEEN ON DRAGONSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; DEN INCLUDES Tyre levers | Spoke keys | Wrenches Hex keys | Screwdriver | Rehook tool head

B-MAY20-PG47.qxp_Layout 1 21/05/2020 15:39 Page 1

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Destination

DEN HAAG

THE CITY BY THE SEA

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The Hague has a lot to boast about, the city hasn’t changed for centuries. It has plenty to keep the visitor occupied, it’s the only Dutch seaside city, home to a stunning Royal residence, and affords a conveyor belt of historic avenues and courtyards. It’s the third largest city of the Netherlands, after Amsterdam and Rotterdam and located in the west of the Netherlands, near the coast of the North Sea. The city has a superior and extremely diverse range of cultural activities dominated by its array of remarkable museums featuring classic, modern, contemporary art, paintings, sculptures and photos. Paris has the Mona Lisa and The Hague is rightly proud of Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring, she is therefore known as the Mona Lisa of the North. It is definitely a city of contrasts. One of my main reasons of travelling to The Hague was my new found fascination with De Stijl, I am intrigued by the ideology of the influential art movement founded in 1917 in Leiden. I had encountered its asymmetric designs on a previous visit to Utrecht and the Rietveld Shroder House. I had read that there are plenty of prominent architectural highlights within The Hague, especially ideas that arose from architect Berlage, the spiritual father of modern architecture in the Netherlands. I was here to discover more, immerse in the cultural side of the city whilst as always using the

simple bicycle as tool of exploration. I travelled with Easyjet from London Southend to Amsterdam and then from Schiphol Airport to Den Haag via train. At Schiphol, the train station is situated underneath the Schiphol Plaza in the central hall of the terminal, where there are ticket desks and ticket machines. A oneway ticket (enkele reis) costs €9,30. Direct trains to Den Haag CS run every fifteen minutes and the journey takes around 30 minutes. The weather was dismal as I emerged from the train station, the rain creating monumental puddles, everywhere consumed by a deluge of gloom. My hotel Parkhotel (Molenstraat 53, 2513 BJ, The Hague; +31 (0) 70 362 43 71) is located in the historical heart of the city, the Hofkwartier. The district is a great place to shop surrounded by atmospheric streets dominated by colourful gables which undeniable capture the imagination and rekindle a bygone era. The interior is a wonderful mix of art-deco with a hint of contemporary design. My room was spacious and after a much needed change of clothing I hit the streets on a basic bike arranged by the hotel. Thankfully the rain had abated and stray sunrays pierced through the narrow streets, I was heading for the main tourist information office located on the Spui. In my welcome pack I had received a

Scot Whitlock Twitter: cadencemag Website: cadencemag.co.uk Author, ‘Simple Words from the Saddle, Simply More Words from the Saddle & The Way of St James’ Twitter: @saddlescot

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wheels, and unsurprisingly I spent much longer than expected devouring cake and ear-wigging the general (always enthusiastic) cycling chit-chat.

wonderful guide on ‘Cycling the Hague, The influence of De Stijl on Hague architecture’, how appropriate. The start of this abstract adventure was outside the tourist office, the guide concentrates on seventeen buildings which optimise the De Stijl period with the Gemeentemuseum as the highlight. With helpful GPS which can be downloaded from www.denhaag.com and simple route directions, there was no way I could get lost, or so I thought. I set off, dodging trams and negotiating the locals on foot towards the Grote Markt. The structures earmarked in the guide are a mix of world renowned and recognised buildings, like the Royal Academy of Art and the Gemeentemuseum and simple parking garages, office buildings, churches and private residence. Even if De Stijl is not ‘your cuppa tea’ ,the guide gives you a structured tour of the city, negotiating parks, dissecting the historic quarter and touching the sleepy residential parts of the city. As I approached the Gemeentemusuem (Stadhourderslaan 41, 2517 HV, The Hague) I was taken aback by its vibrant façade, the expressive yellow brickwork demonstrates that this is most definitely for decorative rather and constructive purposes. The building is home to the biggest Mondrian Collection on the planet and one of the largest De Stijl collections. Designed by H.P Berlage it’s a pinnacle of modern architecture. The permanent collection contains modern art, fashion, music, decorative arts, and a print room with about 50,000

drawings. It was refurbished in the 1990’s and is a glorious introduction to the delights of contemporary art. From the museum I headed east towards several private residences, the wide roads quiet. I encountered several villa type properties all designed in the ‘New Building’ style, a stream of architecture in which functionality and standardisation were important. As expected I managed to get lost and found myself heading even further east, after several detours and orientation malfunctions I found myself back in the centre and yearning a much needed coffee stop. Lola Coffee & Bikes (Noordeinde 91, 2514 GD Den Haag; +31 (0) 61 471 58 54) is recognised as one of the best coffee shops in The Hague, with the owner a bike fanatic. Here you can book a fun bike tour of the city, buy or even repair your bike. The interior is dominated by two

The afternoon was now progressing, however I wanted to see one last attraction before returning. The Mauritshuis (Plein 29, 2511 CS, The Hague; +31 (0) 70 302 34 56). Paris has the Mona Lisa and The Hague is rightly proud of Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring, she is therefore known as the Mona Lisa of the North. The Royal Picture gallery is located in a beautiful 17th century palace and has the highest number of masterpieces per SQ Metre in the Netherlands. The building is dominated by Vermeer with thirty of his works in the collection and is centrally located next to the Binnenhof and near to the stunning famous pond, the Hofvijver. That evening I had a sumptuous dinner at Little V (Rabbijn Maarsenplein 21, 2512 HJ, The Hague; +31 70 392 1230) which offers a wondrous introduction to the culture of Vietnam. The cuisine is a glorious mix of many culinary traditions, China, Thailand, India and Indonesia which offers a selection of versatile and healthy food, the relaxing mix of traditional and modern designed was refreshing. As I waited for my food to arrive, I made a simple note on a paper serviette ‘pedal to the coast’, my plan for tomorrow was set. The city possess an even more dynamic persona as the sun fades, the mixture of night sounds seep from every crevice, immersion is unavoidable. The potency and hustle and bustle of socialising is undeniably infectious. As I headed back for the night, away from enthusiastic partying, I was exposed to a totally

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different side to the city; narrow alleys hiding artisan cafes, decorative facades sympathetically at ease with their surroundings. I realised that if you are prepared to explore then this city has a calm, almost self-satisfied side. After an early breakfast I set out towards the sea, the weather was behaving, chinks of blue interloping amidst the cloud cover. The sea and its 11 kilometres of coastline is only 15 minutes away by bike, the comparison from chic boutiques and refined masterpieces to barefoot in the sand is astonishing. I was heading towards Scheveningen, once a simple fishing village of only 900 inhabitants, it has evolved into the Netherlands most famous seaside resort offering an abundance of attractions, boulevards and the usual restaurants and cafes. My route through the city streets was relatively unhindered and in no time I was pedalling on a designated cycle path through the greenery of Scheveningse Bosjes. As with all Dutch cities the bike is the king, everywhere two wheels dominate, resigning the car to a mere chugging inconvenience. As I approached the sea, I spied a dramatic Ferris wheel dominating the coastline. The uninterrupted views of the horizon were beautiful, the seafront offers the usual sights and attractions,

bars, restaurants, shops. I was drawn to the Pier which is acknowledged as one the most famous attractions on the Dutch coastline. Following a complete renovation itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s now home to a plethora of great eateries and places to kick back and relax. I locked my bike and wandered aimlessly, the Pier is accessible every day, free of charge, from 10am, and it is a great place to just sit, watch and drink coffee. After two cups with panoramic views of the now angry sea it was unfortunately time to retrace my route back to a more urban setting. For more information see Visit Holland

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DISCOVER THE BEAUTIFUL DOVEDALE VALLEY... AND THEN RELAX AT THE IZAAK WALTON HOTEL The Izaak Walton Hotel is a historic country house hotel which offers comfort and views of outstanding beauty across the Derbyshire & Staffordshire Peaks. Offering easy access to many on road and off road cycling routes, we provide the ideal base to relax and recover for cyclists wishing to discover the peak district, with additional facilities including: • • • •

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Cyclists, welcome to Port Sunlight! Stay in a holiday cottage

Enjoy the scenic landscape on two wheels

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Discover over a Century of Port Sunlight history in our award-winning Museum before sampling the delights of our Tea Room – Gift Shop – Special Interest Walks, Tours and Trails – Holiday Cottages – Conference & Venue Hire and Group Visit offers.

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30 BIKE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER 2020

CYCLING MIRROR BIKE-MAG.COM

THE MIRROR

THAT CAN SAVE YOUR LIFE Jamais Contente (Never Happy): the name of the car that, way back in 1899, was the first to go at 100 km/h. This name could also describe Carlo Dondo (1942): he is never entirely satisfied with his creations; his first thoughts are how he can improve them and simultaneously invent something new and useful.

RROR THAT CAN SAVE YOUR LIFE

Happy):Being theanname that, way back inventorof is the not a car job but a Today the in state of mind, a kind of virus that gets Sprintech® t 100 km/h. This name could also describe mirrors into your bloodstream as a child and have earned the s neverthat entirely satisfied with his creations; Carlo soon learned to recognise reputation among and take advantage of amid the one cyclists as the best he canthousand improve them and simultaneously and one necessities and in the industry. d useful.surprises of everyday life. Finding When other brands

in Switzerland a more receptive and rattle and spin productive base than in Italy, which he out of position, job butlefta when state a kind of virus that mirrors he of wasmind, just sixteen years old. Sprintech® hold true. Riders m as a child and soon to The idea of thethat drop Carlo bar mirrors came learned value the superior from a traumatic experience of Carlo quality of these antage of amid the one thousand and one Dondo after two serious accidents products thanks of everyday life. made Finding Switzerland a on his custom racingin bike. Two to their sleek accidents that could have been avoided and ease of ctive base than in Italy, which he leftdesign when if only he hadn’t had to turn around to fitting. Last but not old. check the traffic behind him. His innate least, the mirrors passion for cycling urged him to find are unobtrusive, a solution suitable for all road bike adjustable and mirrors came from a traumatic experience of enthusiasts. secure positioning when riding ious accidents on his custom made racing over The license plate device Carlo invented cobbles or bumps. 1984, for which he won his firstif only he could inhave been avoided Once used, you will Silver and Gold medals in Geneva and d to check traffica consolidated behind him.wonder His how you Brussels,the was already navigated the roads business the end of the last suitable for all urged him to atfind a solution without a mirror! millennium, so much so that a few dusk/darkness goes from 25 METRES years after selling his business to a SEEING WELL is without Vision 360°, to a staggering third party he started to focus on and only the first half of safety. The second 150 METRES with two Vision reflectors improve every aspect of the product is BEING SEEN. Carlo understood this affixed to the wheel’s spokes. Carlo invented in 1984, for which he won his first Silver and Gold medals inback Geneva and range that embodies his entrepreneurial early on and, between one ride and This means that the cyclist is visible philosophy: the Sprintech® Racing drop another, began to reflect on onsolidated business at the end of the lasthemillennium, sothis. much so that aearlier. fewThis years 9 seconds is more than bar mirror for racing bicycles and the Something that would ALWAYS be enough time for car drivers to adjust Sprintech® MTB wereto born. Just on to a third partyCity heforstarted focus and improve every aspect of the product range visible while riding, especially for the their speed and avoid any danger to the had happened for the license plate biggest threat to cyclists: car behind eneurialas philosophy: the Sprintech® Racing drop bar the mirror for racing and cyclist. bicycles Recognition for the the innovation device, when the drop bar mirrors were them. and its usefulness again came from presented the Innovation Exhibition for the license plate device, when were born. Justat as had happened the drop bar the panel at the Brussels International in Martigny in Switzerland in 1996 they As a result SPRINTECH® VISION 360° the Innovation Exhibition in Martigny in Switzerland in 1996 they won the second prize Exhibition in 2012 where SPRINTECH® won the second prize for Innovation was created, uniting reflective power VISION 360° won the Gold and in 2012 the Gold Medal at the and movement. the Gold Medal at the International Invention Exhibitions in Brussels and Geneva. medal. International Invention Exhibitions in The SPRINTECH® products are made in From tests carried out the perception Brussels and Geneva. More information can be distance at a speed of 50 km/h at rors have earned the reputation among cyclists as the best in theSwitzerland. industry. When other found on www.sprintech.eu

of position, Sprintech® mirrors hold true. Riders value the superior quality of these eek design and ease of fitting. Last but not least, the mirrors are unobtrusive,

SEPTEMBER 2020 BIKE 31 BIKEMAGAZINE MAGAZINE 21

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BICYCLE SAFETY ACCESSORIES

WWW.SJSCYCLES.COM When it comes to safety and dependability, there is one choice that has proven to stand out above the rest, SPRINTECH, made in Switzerland. Easy to install and instinctive to use. Unobtrusive, adjustable and light, only 28grams including the mounting plug.

B Y

Sprintech® Racing and Sprintech® City mirrors have AWARD W earned the reputation among cyclists as the best in the industry. When other brands rattle and spin out SPRINTECH® R ® bar mirror for r of position, Sprintech mirrors holdRACING true. SPRINTECH® drop bar mirror

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and SPRINTEC city bikes and invented and p the Innovation invented andfrom presented at the Innovation The idea of the drop bar mirrors came two in Martigny, S traumatic experiencesExhibition of Carlo Dondo. Two in 1996 where in Martigny, Switzerland serious accidents on his tailor made racing bike. the prize for I in have 1996 where they won the prize for and in 2012 at t Two accidents that could been avoided if only he hadn’t had to Innovation turn his head to check and in 2012 at the BrusselsInternational E the traffic behind him. His innate passion for Belgium wher International Exhibition in Belgium where the gold m bicycles urges him to find a solution suitable for all racing bicycle enthusiasts him.the gold medal. they like won

for racing bikes and SPRINTECH®

SPRINTECH® RACING and SPRINTECH® CITY are made in Europe. CITYoffor city bikes and74MTB were They are all original creations Carlo Dondo, cyclist, years old.

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INFO@SPRINTECH.EU

32 BIKE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER 2020

CENTRAL ASIA BIKE-MAG.COM

Destination

TAJIKISTAN& KYRGYZSTAN

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“Call me. No Tajikistan” was the brief and direct message I saw when I turned on my phone for the first time in nearly 1 week, a curious note from my brother Bobby back in the US. I had just come down from the mountains to a tiny village and was sitting in the living room of a local home stay. Perplexed by this comment, I shrugged it off and then proceeded to take this rare opportunity of internet to catch up on some news. The first story that I saw was one of 7 cyclists, including 2 from the US and 1 from Switzerland, who were run over and attacked in Tajikistan along the Pamir Highway 2 days prior. Only 3 survived. ISIS was claiming responsibility for the attack. I sat, contemplatively stoic, overcome with emotion. My exuberant high was promptly ripped out of the clouds as my thoughts went deliberately down a rabbit hole. This was the closest that I come to such an act of terror. I was not in the same country, however, last week, we had talked about traveling to Tajikistan, and cycling that very stretch of the country. At the last moment, we decided to head north due to logistical issues and time limitations. The Pamir Highway is well known and traveled among the circuit of long distance bike-packers, offering gargantuan views of the Pamir mountain range, and surreal feelings of being “out there”. The region has been deemed no more unstable or dangerous than the area

of Kyrgyzstan that we were currently peddling through. It should have been like going to Canada. Paralysing Feelings of sadness flooded over me, tempered by confusion, anger, and disbelief. Normally one thinks of “safety in numbers.” They were 7 cyclists. Including my 2 Swiss friends, we were 3. I’m still trying to come to grips with this horrific act and realistically, the truth may never be known. One of the American’s who was killed, loftily mused in his blog about the kindness that he had experienced from people all over the world, feelings that people are genuinely good and caring – sentiments that have mirrored my own through all of my travels. I have stopped short of thinking... this could have been me – but in reality, it could have been...or any of my friends and other wanderers who I have met over the past two years – people anxiously, optimistically exploring this fascinating world on two wheels. So, what do we as travellers do when we hear something like this? Do we stop traveling, wandering this beautiful planet that we are all mesmerised by? Will I now, into the foreseeable future, constantly be looking over my shoulder with each approaching car? What do we do in the face of terror? My mind is swiftly transported to other acts of terror that occurred back in the US,

Jerry Kopack Jerry is a wanderer who has been given the gift of time. He travels to far away places with only his bike in an effort to live simply and chase new experiences and connections. worldspinsby.wordpress.com @worldspinsby

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attempting to draw a parallel or find some rationalisation. How long did it take parents around the US, after the Sandyhook elementary shooting, to feel a little more comfortable in letting their kids go back to school, knowing they will never be as comfortable again? What about after the Aurora, Colorado movie theatre shooting? The nightclub in Miami? My intent is not to equate any of these horrific acts to this one in Tajikistan because they are all unique, but rather my mind is spinning in a million different directions and I’m just trying to make sense of it, as if that’s possible at all. Three days prior, we were slowly clawing our way through an expansive valley, into a very ominous and imminent storm. We were tired, yet still excited to see what lay over the next mountain pass. The plan was to cross this 12,000 foot pass late that afternoon, but the storm that was mounting had a bulls-eye on our chests and thus had other ideas of our progress. We could see it coming from several miles away so we frantically dug into our bags for gore-tex just as the first sheet of rain came darting in, side- ways. I distinctly remembered seeing a dried up drainage culvert about 500 yards back so we took advantage of the ferocious tail wind and retreated back to the only visible haven for several miles. While it provided shelter from the rain, the wind found a way to wrap itself inside the concrete tunnel that we were all huddled in, slowly freezing us to the core. Brigitte spotted smoke billowing across the road behind a hill. We knew it must be a local home so we made a break for it. The family living there was already hunkered down inside, as I’m sure they have become quite accustomed to these freak storms. We knocked on the door and were immediately rushed inside. The mother, father, and 4 children anxiously pulled out the table in the small concrete house, began boiling water for tea, and laid out bread with fresh raspberry jam and cream. The youngest daughter who was maybe 6, looked over at me as she was playfully wiggling a loose front tooth, and immediately started to giggle, the way only the innocence of a child could giggle. I was once again at ease. This was not a tourist guest house and this family was not looking to make any money. In fact, I’m not sure if they had ever invited foreigners

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into their home before. But it didn’t matter. They saw three travellers who were cold and wet so they did what I would hope any human would do – opened up the door and invited us in – without any fear. Wind gusts angrily rattled the single pane glass windows as we all gathered on the sofa and watched the Smurf movie, dubbed in Russian, on their 12” television. At one point I’m nearly certain I saw a chicken, or maybe a old lady on a broomstick, go flying by the window outside. I have been in Kyrgyzstan for approaching 4 weeks. Landing in each new country is always a shock to the senses. In places like Kyrgyzstan, I can’t read, can’t speak, don’t know what the food is like; the culture is different and of course I have to do the math to understand the money. But gradually, I realise that it’s just a sliding scale of the same; then I recalibrate, and find my groove. It’s all based on the same human currency called kindness – the same that the American in Tajikistan referred to. This kindness that I have experienced in Kyrgyzstan has not been overt like in India and Nepal. I had to go looking for it. However, it is still here, and once I found it, it has shone brightly. This is why we travel. This is why we have come. To experience, to share, to give and receive. To make the world a smaller place, free us from that closet full of fear that is so embedded in us, and say fuck you to those who seek to drive us apart and have us feel anything less. One mOre is a sentiment that I have been embracing for the better part of 3 years now. It has to do with the premise that time is finite. Opportunities are limited. It’s easy when you know something is your last so you should save it because...it is your last. It’s only when things happen that are unexpected do you say “If only I had one more...” One more has a more optimistic feel than last one, giving us the feeling that perhaps we have some semblance of control. Like most, especially those of us in our now 40’s or beyond, I have experienced losses that I have had to look back on with the curious despondence of, if I only had one more... If I know that I have but one more mountain pass, one more talk with a friend, dance with a partner, embrace from a loved one – how would I change

the way I experience that moment? Would I go slower? Would I talk nicer? Would I be more patient? Would I smile more, laugh more, without reservation? If I accept this truth – that every experience is a gift and opportunities are limited, living in the now of each moment, maybe I can live more deeply and not rely on the mental scarcity of one more but rather embed this into my normal life.

omnipresent gushing river. I laid on my back on the cushion of a pillow of green clover and just veered peacefully up at the crystal blue sky, not focused on anything but rather just allowing my gaze to drift wherever. I reminded myself: “This is your one more. Just because you’re tired or stressed does not give you permission to rush through this. Slow down. Be here now. You’ll miss this when it’s gone.”

Over the past 2 years, I was traveling more open ended. There was no fixed ending, no hard stop, no flight to catch. I was truly living with the gift of time. There was no concept of last one. However, I have a flight booked out of Bishkek in a few days so the finite concept of time here is very real. Starting out this morning, I was acutely aware that there was but one more mountain pass, one more set of switch backs left in my time in Kyrgyzstan, with these 2 great friends. One more night of camping. One more opportunity to exhilaratingly, yet needlessly bathe in the ice cold rushing snow melt of a river before making one more pasta dinner on my camp stove and climbing into my sleep- ing bag, one more time with the sound of hors- es and goats frolicking around my tent – and I planned to relish in each moment.

I awoke the next morning and played “Here Comes the Sun” by the Beatles outside of the Swiss tent, a song that we have sung aloud together most of the mornings of most of the months that we have traveled together, a symbolic anthem to start each day. “Here comes the sun...” I sang. Inside their tent, I could hear Ivo and Brigitte chuckling, then responding, “Sun, sun, sun, here it comes...”

It was only 3 o’clock. We could have definitely made more distance up the pass that day, whereby shortening the effort the next day, but why? Instead, we found the last bit of lush green carpet, tucked into the elbow crease of the mountain switch back at the base of the climb, nestled along the

On the way up the pass that morning, I stopped frequently, not because I was winded, but rather because I wanted to drink in each moment; take dozens of mental photographs to keep with me and pull out whenever I needed beauty; and keep me forever optimistic that I should get the opportunity to do one more trip with my Swiss friends. I climbed slower; descended even slower than I climbed, because I didn’t want to miss a single frame. As we dragged our bikes the file 2 miles over a scree field of loose shale, each step potentially initiating a rock slide on the switch back below, we crested the summit of the 12k Kegeti Pass just before noon. Looking behind me, I could see the next storm, ominously chasing us over the saddle. We hastily

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suited up in gore-tex, bracing for the next lashing...but it never came. Mother nature winked at us and for about 20 minutes, the clouds somehow got hung up on the peaks allowing the sun to peek out. Instead of frantically scurrying down the other side of the pass, effectively finishing our journey in haste, we were able to have lunch at the summit. Thunder crashed all around, yet no storms fell upon us. In those moments, time stood still and everything was right. From the summit, it was nearly 60 blissful miles of dirt track, gently descending down 9000 feet, back to Bishkek – a feeling so unreal – like I was peddling off the end of the earth. As I looked back in the distance, I could somewhat make out the snowcapped peaks peering over the rolling green hills, euphoria still plastered on my face. I just hope that I get one more chance to ride bikes with these guys again.

as a result of my experiences, quite simply, I’ve learned that traveling makes you less of an asshole. I’m sure of it. Each country that I see, each person that I meet shows me the world through a new lens. Going to far away places where I don’t speak the language, trust- ing that the people I meet along the way who do not speak my language, will do me no harm. Knowing that the best laid plans sometimes blow up into an infuriating mess but having the patience and resolve to smile, roll with it, and see what beautiful masterpiece evolves from the ashes of the initial perceived disaster. Plans are great, but you cannot control the outcome, so forego these insecure and lofty ambitions of false control. Life is unscripted, and even though you may have a map, the true adventure happens at the intersections of fear and control. So loosen your grip and resign yourself to what might be. Say yes when opportunities arise and step through the doors when they open. Live in

the moment and be ready to take advantage if life lobs you one more. Jerry Kopack is a wanderer who has been given the gift of time. He travels to far away places with only his bike in an effort to live simply and chase new experiences and connections. https:// worldspinsby.wordpress.com, www. instagram.com/worldspinsby. Brigitte and Ivo Jost are bicycle nomads. So far they have spent seven years in the saddle and the journey has become their life. You can follow their trip and photography at www. bikepackground.com and www. instagram.com/bikepackground.

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PAMIRS BIKE-MAG.COM

LIFE AT THE EDGE

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As another mechanical problem renders your bike temporarily unusable, as the wheel needs truing or the pannier falls off and is left somewhere in your trail: short of breath, you must walk back hoping it hasn’t fallen in the river, listening to your own expletives echoed back to you from the valley walls. The road goes from potholed tarmac to a shingle beach; from corrugated gravel to deep sand, it grips your wheels as you try to clock a lethargic 2.5 km/hour. And with each level of diminishing road quality you reluctantly pray for the previous obstacle to progress instead of the current. We are pushing the bikes on the flat, witness- ing the inability of the speedometer to register motion, this proof of our sluggish progress a far greater disturbance than any physical pain. Broken spokes, ripped panniers, days of fifteen punctures, hub cracks and rim dents. We were cycling through the Pamir mountains of Tajikistan, the most remote part of our journey so far. As a group of five we had tenfold more mechanical failures than a combined 22 months cycling through Europe and Central Asia. The stretch from Langar to Khargush made Paris-Roubaix look like a trip to Disneyland. At points only cycling on the grass to the side of the road made for a faster pace than walking. Anyway, rant fully expunged. The upshot was that finally bike-death

had arrived, and my relic on two wheels had something terminal. The free hub was broken: if I pushed the pedals the wheel would not rotate. Some components were in need of an appreciative toss on to a rubbish heap. It did, however, work intermittently; enough to get me over a 4344m pass and in to Alichur, the only sign of life in three days. Alichur, a small collection of concrete blocks on the plateau, was seen as the great metropolis hub to our civilisation-starved eyes. Its dank and dim shop a bustling market selling foreign treasures (Snickers and CocaCola); its silent guest house a towering palace, offering warm tea and a fire. My wheel had been working again for a further day, up until Murghab, the next and only big town in the Pamirs. As we left town it failed once more, and this time it seemed for good. I left my riding partners and returned to Murghab. My aim had been Stockholm to China by bike. China was only 91km away from Murghab; a mere few pedal strokes away. My goal for the trip being the Chinese border I was unwilling to take a taxi any of the distance between start and finish and being so close I could walk that distance. After a brief attempt to borrow the mountain bike of a young local boy (hindered by my saying ‘500’ instead of ’50’ dollars in Russian), I set out on my own bike with a temporary fix hoping it wouldn’t

Rob Armstrong “I wanted something which would get my hands dirty and provide an opportunity to learn every day. So I embarked from Stock- holm with a bike and a tent and headed for China” allthewayfromstockholm.com.

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break again, packed with enough food to walk the distance if needed. Murghab to the Chinese border and back, and I would have completed my goal. The next two days were to be a mystery. No cycle tourists travelled this route as the border was only open to Tajiks or Chinese, and there were more than a few ill-conceived rumours that the road was of perfect quality. It was not. And what’s more the border post was closed for three days, so through traffic would be of no help. What followed was two days riding through the most remote landscape of my trip. An empty high altitude desert valley was going to lead me to the Chinese border with only a couple of scraps evidence of habitation: a lorry on its side and a lonesome yurt out in the valley floor, each of which I earmarked for potential wind-blocked camping spots on my return. As I left Murghab the atmosphere changed. There was now nothing. Previously in the Pamirs there had been traffic every now and then to have some link to the town or village nearby, often stopping for some remarkably ordinary conversation. One jeep stopped us during a snowy descent, a white woman leaned out of the window, “Have you seen a metal panel?” she asked, and then drove on. As I looked back a storm was following me: a wall of charcoal-grey, the wind picking up. But I was in luck, despite my disbelief I could see a building on the horizon. Entering these chai hanas (tea houses) in the distant desert lands you feel an instant affinity with whoever is running them. This brave humanoid living out here on the barren plateau has just saved you from riding through the storm or the discomfort of erecting your tent behind a big rock to see out the tempest that has been following you. I offer his son some raisins and order a pot of tea. What joy erupts within me to see other people out here, where I have seen nothing for two hours. An absent map had become an absent landscape. Objects within this sphere can be seen 50km away as there is nothing until the eye meets the mountains on the landscape’s edge and being alone out here provoked those raw feelings so rarely felt in a densely populated

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modern world. For hours I pedalled on, expect- ing my bike to break, through the silence. I was saving my water for this three day expedition, the time it would take to walk the distance if my bike died and my lips were like crusting lava. This emptiness was lunar, rocky and sparse, and I thought constantly about the food and water I had and whether it would last me three days. The bike held up though and I made good time. Just prior to the border was a large warehouse, prison-like in appearance and assumed to have nobody inside, so unused did it look. As I huddled down behind a verge and reheated some pasta I was shocked, and once again nourished, to see someone emerge from this building, the first human I had seen in little over four hours. A quick conversation told me he wanted me to sleep at their place, the prison. I gratefully accepted and was off again for the border to return before the next storm came in. I now had somewhere to sleep. An other strange interaction awaited me at the Tajik side of the border, closed, which fenced a no man’s land between China and Tajikistan. Two

soldiers waited outside a tiny border post brandishing their weapons behind the barbed fence. This fence stretched over the sand to two opposing bleak horizons. As I approached the border on foot (further bike trouble) the soldiers came out through the fence. Quite frankly they could have only been thinking ‘who is this lunatic?’ out here in this mountainous desert as a storm approaches walking his bicycle to a border that isn’t open and even if it were wouldn’t allow a non-local to pass through it. Needless to say I felt it was worth getting a wave in pretty sharpish and a ‘Salaam Alaikum’ (peace be with you) out in to the cold air. But I had made it, Stockholm to China by bike. I slept in the building mentioned and was greeted with the local tradition of salty tea with butter melting in it. The inside was homely and the roadworkers living there spent hours poring over my map, looking up their home village and seeing how far away the capital city was, somewhere they had never been. The next morning a goat turned up in the sidecar of a motorbike and soon met its maker while a tractor was being repaired. This area of Tajikistan

is home to mostly Kirghiz people and three of them set about repairing the tractor’s engine while the men I had stayed with saw to the goat. This was life at the landscape’s edge. to a border that isn’t open and even if it were wouldn’t allow a non-local to pass through it. Needless to say I felt it was worth getting a wave in pretty sharpish and a ‘Salaam Alaikum’ (peace be with you) out in to the cold air. But I had made it, Stockholm to China by bike. I slept in the building mentioned and was greeted with the local tradition of salty tea with butter melting in it. The inside was homely and the road workers living there spent hours poring over my map, looking up their home village and seeing how far away the capital city was, somewhere they had never been. The next morning a goat turned up in the sidecar of a motorbike and soon met its maker while a tractor was being repaired. This area of Tajikistan is home to mostly Kirghiz people and three of them set about repairing the tractor’s engine while the men I had stayed with saw to the goat. This was life at the landscape’s edge.

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SEPTEMBER 2020 BIKE MAGAZINE 45

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46 BIKE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER 2020

CYCLING JERSEYS BIKE-MAG.COM

CYCLING JERSEYS When the temperature starts to plunge, this is the gear you need to see you through on two wheels It’s easy to see the onset of the colder months as a time to hang up your wheels, but if you’ve got the right clothing there’s no need – or excuse. With some clever layering you’ll be able to ride in comfort until spring. Look for features such as water resistance, high collars and lightweight thermal insulation to keep you warm and dry for longer. More racy cuts are great for speed demons whereas the more relaxed fit will allow you to add a thermal vest and tackle more varied conditions. Here’s our pick of the best.

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CYCLING JERSEYS BIKE-MAG.COM

Escape Pro Winter LS Aussie firm Maap is determined to brighten up our winter with this stunning azure outfit. The cut is slim without being restrictive and the lightly fleeced Italian polyamide fabric feels wonderfully soft and warm. There’s more than enough stretch in the material to add a base layer if you need too, and the super-tight cuffs help to keep draughts out. Anti-sag material in the pockets means you can pack them full of winter essentials such as gloves and snacks, without worrying you might pull the jersey out of shape. With its sleek profile, this one is a great choice for racers looking to make winter training as comfortable as possible, while still looking fantastic.

Sportful BodyFit Pro Thermal WorldTour riders went into the design with this one. It’s a belter. It treads the fine line between jersey and jacket. With a fleecy lining, it’s warm enough to be worn on its own on faster rides in autumn and spring, while being perfect for under a waterproof jacket when in depths of winter. The three rear pockets are spacious enough for all your bits and bobs and we particularly like the bright stripes down its back and sleeves, to keep you visible when it grows gloomy.

Endura Pro SL Designed with feedback from the top flight Movistar race team, the Pro SL is slim fitting but offers enough space for a base layer underneath for that bit of extra warmth. We like the feel of the wool/polyester blend fabric and found it soon wicked away sweat on climbs – important if you don’t want to get chilly on longer descents. It has three pockets and a zipped one for any valuables. There’s also a reflective, which is if you’re riding in fading light. You can easily pair it with a gilet or a jacket later in the season. This is one for anyone looking for a nononsense, high quality top at a great price.

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CYCLING JERSEYS BIKE-MAG.COM

Continental Thermal It’s the details that set this gorgeous top apart from rivals. From the oversized metal pullers on the zips, to the thumb loops that stop the sleeves riding up, it’s been really well thought out. There’s even a bright red, waterproofed liner and zipped pockets for valuables which are not only stylish but also practical. Even the three main pockets at the back are cut at the perfect angle to access while in the saddle. With its flattering fit and gold reflective piping you’d assume it was designed in some sunny, southern European clime; its actually stitched together in Leicestershire using fabric made in Nottingham. It might be a few quid more than other tops in our selection, but the meryl and lycra material is thick and luxurious enough to make this a jersey you’ll be enjoying in the winter weather for years’ to come.

Morvelo Camo Thermoactive Brighton-based Morvelo always come up with something a bit out of the ordinary and this time they’ve gone for a British Army camo vibe – something we’ve never seen in road cycling kit. To make sure you don’t disappear into the roadside hedges, they have included some orange badges and diagonal stripes across the four back pockets (one with a zip). The fabric has a fleecy lining for added warmth and the cut is generous enough to accommodate a base layer.

Club Thermal Stripes never go out of fashion, whatever the weather. This one’s got three of them – in fuschia, black and ivory. It’s made from thick fabric so should see you right through the winter, maybe teamed with a jacket on the coldest days. The carbon grey material has got a nice fleecy lining so it’s soft on the skin, and there’s a water resistant coating to keep the drizzle out. It’s been cut a little longer at the back to keep your bum warm too. There’s the standard three-pocket set up, plus a zippered and waterproofed section for your phone and cash.

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Madison RoadRace Light They’ll certainly see you coming in this fluo-yellow number, and with its racy cut, it’s a lot more stylish than the usual high-viz offerings. There are nice tight cuffs – one black and one yellow – that keep the winter cold out. It’s got four pockets, including a zipped one for valuables, with the outside ones angled for easy access. The nylon and polyester-mix fabric is thin, so it’s better suited to autumn and spring rides but can be teamed with a gilet on cooler mornings. Also available in black and a rich burgundy.

Trofeo Baracchi Cycling history aficionados will appreciate this one – a nod to the muchmissed Trofeo Baracchi two man time trial, held at the end of the racing season until the early 1990s. The combination of blue and white stripes, red detailing and dark blue sleeves sounds a terrible idea on paper but actually works really well. It looks even better from the back where there’s an Italian flag and time trial logo on the dark blue pockets panel. Made by Santini for Poole-based Prendas Ciclismo, it’s lightly fleeced inside with a raised collar to keep out the chill.

Pro Team Long Aero Rapha headed into the wind tunnel to create what they claim is their fastest jersey ever. It uses a dimpled fabric at the back of the arms and shoulders to disrupt airflow and reduce drag. The cut is on the sporty side to help you slip through the air - while the jersey is a bit thin for day-long rides in the coldest weather – it’s great for fast training rides where you need a bit more protection than what’s offered by short sleeves. There are three pockets, the outer ones angled for easy access, plus a waterproof section for valuables.

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CYCLING JERSEYS BIKE-MAG.COM

Alphonsine Grey & Blue With its unique fluffy, merino fleece fabric, the chic Alphonsine certainly grabbed our attention. It’s a lovely, warm jersey that will keep you toasty on even the chilliest mornings yet remains nicely breathable. Its styling won’t suit everyone – the grey, blue and red combo will be a bit too unorthodox for some – but anyone who wants to turn heads on the road will love it. The shoulder patches are made from a windresistant material for extra protection, and there’s an eye-catching red chest pocket. Practical details include three rear cargo pockets plus a valuables section, and there’s a two-way full length zip on the body so you can fine tune it to suit your riding position.

POC AVIP LS Ceramic Ceramic material has been printed on to the shoulders, sleeves and hips of this jersey to help minimise road rash should you take a tumble. You won’t want to risk damaging this though – it’s too good looking. POC’s AVIP – Attention Visibility Interaction Protection – concept uses a combination of black, white and black again to grab the attention of drivers. It’s another racy top which will appeal to faster cyclists, but works well layered up with a jacket or gilet. We particularly like the longer sleeves which means there’s no cold spot at the wrist when worn with gloves.

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TRAILBLAZER As trail riding and bikes evolve, so should the performance of your helmet. The Trailblazer is the latest evolution of our pioneering multi-piece variable elasticity shell technology, leading the way in protection performance. Now you can blaze trails thought to be unrideable. UK Distribution by: Jungle Products Ltd. Mail: info@jungleproducts.co.uk Web: jungleproducts.co.uk

52 BIKE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER 2020

PEAK DISTRICT BIKE-MAG.COM

THE PEAK DISTRICT AND DERBYSHIRE

Located at the centre of England, the Peak District and Derbyshire is one of the country’s premier and most popular destinations. Boasting Britain’s first National Park, it encompasses a wealth of natural and man-made landscapes - ranging from areas of breathtaking, speciallyprotected beauty and classic country houses to distinctive market towns and villages, pioneering industrial heritage.

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From rugged gritstone moors and rolling limestone dales to lush meadows and leafy forests, the quality and variety of its countryside is second to none. It’s no coincidence that National Trust chairman, Sir Simon Jenkins, it has one of his top five most inspiring landscapes, along with Mam Tor to Stanage Edge, The Roaches, Chatsworth, Dovedale and Kinder Scout – in his book England’s 100 Best Views. Yet there’s much more to the area than the dramatic uplands of the Dark Peak and Kinder Scout, site of the famous 1932 Mass Trespass, and the gentler contours of the White Peak and Dovedale, inspiration for Izaak Walton’s much-read and best-selling paean to fly-fishing, The Complete Angler. Few people are aware that the Peak District encompasses parts of Cheshire, Staffordshire, Yorkshire, and Derbyshire. There are also lots of well-kept ‘secrets’ to discover, such as the Chesterfield area, with its famous Crooked Spire, or the Derwent Valley Mills World Heritage Site stretching from Cromford to Derby, where Sir Richard Arkwright introduced the world’s first factory system. Surrounding cities such as Derby, Manchester and Sheffield, there are all ideal places to catch up on some culture, dine out in style, splash out on shopping or take in top class sport and entertainment. Characterful country houses range from majestic Chatsworth and medieval Haddon Hall to hidden gems such as Renishaw Hall and Gardens, Bolsover Castle, Tissington Hall and some of the finest and most varied National Trust properties in Britain. Most hold special events throughout the year, and many are specially dressed for Christmas to offer added appeal during a seasonal visit. Chatsworth, the historic home of the Dukes of Devonshire, is justifiably known as ‘The Palace of the Peak’, with its

treasure trove of both traditional and modern artworks, superbly landscaped gardens, 1000-acre estate, everchanging exhibitions, and popular annual Country Fair. Once described as ‘the most perfect English house to survive from the Middle Ages,’ enigmatic Haddon Hall is home to the Manners family, with a unique atmosphere that never fails to enchant, with delightful terraced, formal and wildflower gardens overlooking the peaceful river Wye. National Trust gems range from Eyam Hall, Calke Abbey, Dunham Massey, Hardwick Hall and Kedleston Hall, Little Moreton Hall, Lyme Park and Quarry Bank Mill to Sudbury Hall and The Museum of Childhood and Tatton Park. The Peak District and Derbyshire’s historic houses and eye-catching landscapes have also served as the scenic backdrop for everything from prime-time TV dramas to Hollywood blockbusters. Chatsworth appeared in Pride and Prejudice and The Duchess, both starring Keira Knightley and in the BBC adaptation of P. D. James’s novel Death Comes to Pemberley, screened over Christmas 2013. Haddon Hall has featured in no less than three TV and film versions of Charlotte Bronte’s evergreen novel Jane Eyre, as well as making a ‘guest’ appearance in Pride and Prejudice and Elizabeth, starring Cate Blanchett. Lyme Park stepped into the spotlight when Oscar-winning actor Colin Firth emerged from its lake in a dripping wet shirt and breeches back in 1995, as Mr. Darcy – visitors still flock to see where he won the heart of Elizabeth Bennet. Garden lovers can get much delight in discovering a kaleidoscope of colour in the Peak District and Derbyshire throughout the year – from delicate carpets of snowdrops in early spring through to formal summer borders and rich autumn hues as late season flowers flourish and trees

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prepare to shed their leaves on the area’s of many country estates and in its woodlands. Glorious gardens complement all the area’s historic houses, but there are lots of other hidden gems that merit a visit, such as Hopton Hall or the National Memorial Arboretum. Wild flowers also thrive – from bluebells and orchids in the spring to plush carpets of purple heather cladding the gritstone uplands of the Dark Peak in late summer. So it’s an ideal time to make a date in your diary to celebrate the national tourist board. The age-old art of creating living art installations made from petals and other natural materials, known as Well Dressing, is unique to the Peak District and Derbyshire. Well Dressing’s origins are unclear, but it is believed to have been introduced by the Romans or Celts, to give thanks for the area’s plentiful fresh water springs. Talented volunteers in up to 80 towns and villages decorate their wells with designs inspired by the Bible or special anniversaries between May and September. Most communities see it as the perfect excuse for a party – staging carnivals, processions and other special events – and visitors are more than welcome to join in the celebrations. Handsome market towns include Ashbourne, Bakewell, Buxton, Chesterfield, Glossop, Holmfirth, Leek and Matlock Bath. Quintessentially English villages range from photogenic favourites such as Ashford in the Water, Edensor and Hartington to former hives of industrial activity such as Cromford, or Eyam, where villagers sealed themselves off in the 17th century to stop the Plague from spreading. The Peak District and Derbyshire is also the perfect place to enjoy England’s great outdoors, with some of the finest walking and cycling in Britain. You can celebrate the 50th anniversary of the launch of the Pennine Way by conquering England’s most famous long-distance trail, stretching 429 kilometres from Edale in Derbyshire to Kirk Yetholme, just inside the Scottish border. But if you’re not a hardened hiker or serious biker, explore the area’s gentler landscapes, ranging from safe, traffic-free former railway trails to scenic riversides and winding valleys, where you can indulge

in a relaxing stroll or some stress-free pedalling. The area recently hosted the Stokeon-Trent to Nottingham leg of the Tour of Britain, featuring top national and international cyclists in September. But you don’t have to be super-fit to take to two wheels here. Whatever your age or ability, there’s a bike and a route to suit. The Peak District and Derbyshire has around 65 miles of family-friendly, traffic-free routes, while Derbyshire has 283 miles of cycle routes – 227 miles on greenways and 57 on roads. Bakewell, the only town in the Peak District National Park, is home to a famous pudding that was made by accident in Victorian times at what is now the Rutland Arms Hotel.

The flustered cook set out to make a strawberry tart, but her culinary disaster created a classic treat that would no doubt have won the equivalent of The Great British Bake. Now, visitors flock there to sample the unique and traditional recipe, and Puddings are sent by post to sweettoothed fans all over the world. Bakewell is also home to the annual Eroica Britannia vintage lifestyle and cycle event, held each June, when thousands of cyclists from all over the world don retro gear and take to pre1987 bikes for a relaxing ride through some of the Peak District’s finest scenery, pausing to enjoy the finest food and drink at picturesque towns and pretty villages along the way. Noncyclists can join in the fun by cheering

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them on their way and enjoying a feast of local food, shopping, events and entertainment at Bakewell Showground. Dining out is a delicious treat, thanks to a wide range of cafes, tea rooms, pubs and restaurants serving wholesome, locally produced food and drink. First-class theatre, music, dance, comedy and other live entertainment are staged throughout the year at venues in Buxton, Chesterfield, Derby, Manchester and Sheffield and also at regular festivals, ranging from rock to rarely-performed opera. Internationallyrenowned Buxton Festival, which includes a star-studded Literary Series, welcomes visitors from across the globe.

Art lovers can also look forward to immersing themselves in the second phase of a major Arts Council-funded project, The Grand Tour. Classic and contemporary works, scenic countryside and vibrant cities will form the stunning backdrop for a very special journey through Derbyshire and neighbouring Nottinghamshire. Chatsworth, Derby Museums, Nottingham Contemporary and The Harley Gallery at Welbeck are among the key venues for exhibitions and events showcasing everything from old masters to cutting edge masterpieces. Visitors will once again have the opportunity to emulate the European adventures of the aristocracy in the 17th and 18th centuries, creating their own regional Grand Tour to enjoy the

countryside, country houses, gardens, cities and towns of both counties. It’s the perfect excuse to book a holiday to catch up on the area’s rich cultural history and landscapes – including privately-owned works that have not been seen in public before and specially commissioned exhibitions. Bringing together the very best art works, both old and new, plus a host of special events, The Grand Tour is a once-in-a-lifetime adventure that shouldn’t be missed. But, rest assured that, whatever your interests and whenever you visit the Peak District and Derbyshire, you’ll be guaranteed a warm welcome and a wonderful experience. It’s a very special destination at any time of year.

56 BIKE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER 2020

PEAK DISTRICT Directory

BIKE-MAG.COM

The Bull at Foolow Eyam, Foolow, Hope Valley S32 5QR

We are a family-owned country pub nestled in the picturesque village of Foolow, in the heart of the Peak District. Our passion is freshly cooked, seasonal, local produce. Serving a great selection of local ales, fantastic wines and gins. Muddy boots and paws all welcome in our bar Luxury Self-Catering Apartment & Bed and Breakfast Available

Bike Lock

Outside seating available, perfect for soaking up the sunshine and stunning views

to adjust to provide a socially safe dining and drinking environment.

Whether you join us for a swift drink, a bite to eat or a relaxing break, a warm welcome awaits.

To give you added assurance that your visit to The Bulls Head, Foolow is as safe and enjoyable as possible, we want to make you aware that we have implemented:

The health and safety of our guests and team are paramount, we continue to work tirelessly to retain the warm welcome, fresh local produce and relaxed atmosphere our Village Pub has to offer. While our bar and dining areas naturally have constraints, we have been able

Wi-Fi

Website: thebullsheadfoolow.co.uk Email: info@thebullsheadfoolow.co.uk Landline: +441433630873

Enhanced procedures and training for our team regarding hygiene. A hand wash station has been installed outside.

The Queens Arms Country Inn 1 Shepley St, Glossop SK13 7RZ

Traditional Peak District Country Inn The Queens Arms Country Inn in located in the historic and picturesque village of Old Glossop in Derbyshire. The Queens provides a warm welcome, comfortable Peak District accommodation, real ales and both traditional pub food and an authentic Indian restaurant. Peak District Country Inn with Accommodation

Bike Lock

with five immaculately finished en-suite bedrooms offering you comfortable accommodation and excellent service. We are also able to offer discounted rates at the local golf course and provide football matchday packages for top teams around the area, including both Manchester United and Manchester City. For more information call us on 01457 853 005 or 07479928463.

The Queens Country Inn is a high Traditional Pub Food and Fine quality Peak District Country Inn Indian Restaurant

Our upstairs Indian restaurant, Queens Spice, offers a wide selection of high quality, authentic dishes, made with the finest fresh ingredients. Whether you are looking for a relaxing weekend break, a high quality real ale and traditional food pub to end your walk, or authentic Indian cuisine, The Queens can cater for a wide range of needs. Our friendly and welcoming staff will be on hand to ensure you have an enjoyable and memorable experience with us.

Wi-Fi

Website: queens-arms-hotel-old-glossop. co.uk Email: info@queensarmsglossop.co.uk Landline: 01457 853 005 Mobile: 07479 928 463

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PEAK DISTRICT Directory

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Shrigley Hall Hotel & Spa Shrigley Rd, Macclesfield SK10 5SB

Bike Lock

The Shrigley Hall Hotel and Spa is an elegant Georgian country house, set in 262 acres of grounds on the edge of the Peak District National Park. An exquisite hotel in an equally unique Cheshire location, 155 bedrooms of varying sizes and styles. Double, twin and single hotel rooms for corporate travellers and leisure breakers, to the grandest room in this 18th-

century hotel, the Executive Suite. Families are also welcome here, with rooms to suit those wellearned family breaks in Cheshire. The hotel resort is well-known throughout the north-west of England for its 18-hole golf course, a true championship course. Whatever your experience level or handicap, this golf course will test your skills and stamina.

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Website: shrigleyhallhotelandspa.co.uk Landline: +441625575757

Jug & Glass Inn Ashbourne Rd, Hartington, Buxton SK17 0BA

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Vicky & Daryll welcome you to the glory through every season. Jug and Glass Inn. Open everyday from 12 noon Traditional service since the 17th century this small quintessential Stay in one of our nine modern comfortable en suite rooms and English Coaching Inn atop the dine in the old pub. White Peak area of the National

Wi-Fi

Website: jugandglassinn.com Landline: +44129884848

Park with views across the Dales inspiring poetry with warming by a roasting fire on a snowy winter days to rambling in panoramic

The Three Horseshoes Country Inn & Spa (Leek) Buxton Road, Buxton Rd, Blackshaw Moor, Leek ST13 8TW Set in the peaceful location on the edge of the Staffordshire Peak Park & only 20 minutes from Alton Towers, The Three Horseshoes Country Inn & Spa makes an ideal location with its beautiful gardens, Patio, Stunning views over the Roaches and surrounding Country Side.

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The Three horseshoes has been run successfully by ourselves, the Kirk family since 1981. Over the last 4 decades, we have gained a wealth of experience to create a warm and relaxing atmosphere.

Wi-Fi

Website: threeshoesinn.co.uk Landline: +441538300296

Dog & Partridge A628, Sheffield S36 4HH

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Style and Comfort. The 18th century old Barn adjoining the Dog and Partridge has been carefully converted into stylish, comfortable accommodation. Many original features have been retained. Spacious rooms are tastefully decorated with views overlooking the rolling countryside.

High quality water is supplied to the building from the Dog and Partridges own well, which is sunk deep into the bedrock of the Pennines. Check in from 2pm. If you require an earlier check in time please call prior to arriving to ensure your room will be available. Check out is 11am.

Website: dogandpartridgeinn.co.uk Landline: +441226763173

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58 BIKE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER 2020

SHOWCASE BIKE-MAG.COM

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The Cardinals Hatt is an established family run hotel set within the Cornish countryside with outstanding views and a picturesque landscape and ideally located to use as a base to discover all that Cornwall and South Devon has to offer We have a range of rooms from doubles, twins, triples and family units, available on a bed and breakfast basis. Ample free parking and free wifi too

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P-Zero Velo is the choice of the performance driven cyclist. Reliability, road handling and grip are key elements to maximise your ride. Over a century of knowledge and experience in the racing world has gone into our tyres. Now available in a wide range of colours to give a distinctive edge and enable you to face any challenge with confidence and style. Exclusively distributed in the UK & Ireland by Extra UK | www.extrauk.co.uk

BIKE Magazine - September 2020

Articles inside

Destination DEN HAAG

CYCLING ADVICE

#Health

HISTORY AND MYTH BLURRED ON THE ROUTE OF THE GIANT’S CAUSEWAY