Our Heritage Magazine by Bilal Safdar

They came and stayed ISSUE 20

STORIES FROM THE INTERNATIONAL PAKISTAN

FROM THE CHIEF EXECUTIVEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S DESK

CONSISTENT EXPANSIONS First of all, I would like to condemn, in strongest terms, the suicide bombings and killings of innocent people in various parts of Pakistan. No religion in the world allows such inhuman acts. On account of these great tragedies, I would like to offer my heartfelt and sincere condolences to the bereaved families of the victims. I, on very regular basis keep on sharing the achievements of Hashoo Group hotels. No matter what the situation is in the country, we make all-out efforts to shoulder our way past obstacles, and owing to this reason, we are consistently providing the best services amid impeccable security to the guests and the employees alike. All the departments of the hotels are equipped with the most powerful creative problem-solving techniques. For every problem, every member of my team finds more than one solution. In most of the cases, they even outperform their own average scores. My high-performing teams also exercise interdependent systems-thinking to confederate cross-functionally, align with a shared vision to become one. The group is therefore consistently expanding. The new projects that are in the offing are the Pearl Continental hotels Mirpur, Multan, and the Zaver Pearl Continental Hayatabad, Peshawar. Most of the reviews that I receive through the guest comment cards are excellent, it gives me immense pleasure to know that every guest leaves with great satisfaction. I would also like to share with you that we highly value your suggestions, so please do keep me posted as to what we can do further to surpass your expectations. Have a nice stay

MURTAZA HASHWANI CHIEF EXECUTIVE, HASHOO GROUP

contents

A HOME OF RICH HISTORICAL AND CULTURAL HERITAGE

ourHeritage

ISSUE 20

features TALKING ONLY LIBRARIES An education rich country, a library in each community, a book in every child’s hand. So for two consecutive days architects, puppeteers, storytellers and interactive theatre trainers met to breathe, read and talk libraries.

PG 15

PAKISTAN’S UNSUNG HEROES

Katas: The mystical temple

An Interview with German ambassador to Pakistan

Dr. Cyrill Nunn

Pakistan’s history and its cultural heritage are fascinating PG 11

Our Heritage is an in-house magazine of Hashoo Group-Hotel Division. No part of it may be reproduced without the written consent of the publisher. Views expressed are those of the writers and not necessarily those of Editorial Board. Responsibility of the contents of the advertisements lies with advertisers. Our Heritage is published by Pakistan Services Limited for Hashoo Group-Hotel Division. This magazine has been prepared by Events, Media & Communications Department, Pakistan Services Limited For advertisements and articles for this magazine, marketing-related proposals, joint promotions and cobranding etc. with Hashoo Group Hotels, please contact Vice President Events, Media & Communications Department NESPAK House, Ground Floor, Ataturk Avenue G-5/2, Islamabad, Pakistan Tel: +92-51-2272890-98 • Fax: +92-51-2274812 Email: tahirkhan@hashoogroup.com

FROM THE EDITOR’S DESK

diverse cultural

EDITORIAL BOARD Murtaza Hashwani Nadia Hashwani Tahir Mahmood Khan Bilal Safdar Mubashir Aziz Nadia Humayioun Waseem Abbas Saira Zaheer Shafaqat Ali

heritage

The objective of “our Heritage” magazine is to familiarize readers with historical values of this continent. And make them understand and appreciate our rich and diverse cultural heritage. Each issue explores a wide variety of themes. These include natural and built heritage, latest trends about tourism and heritage management, material culture, music, visual arts, literary arts, culinary arts, festivals and the activities at the Hashoo Group of Hotels. We wish to express our sincere gratitude to all the concerned team members who have made the creation of this magazine a reality and look forward to its success and continued publication. Enjoy the experience!

TAHIR MAHMOOD KHAN EDITOR, OUR HERITAGE

THE LOST JEWEL

KAN MAHTERZAI By: Zeeshan Raza Alim

OUR HERITAGE

In my early teens when romanticism was at its peak, there was a famous song which was my favorite and I used to sing it over and over again. I had not seen the movie ARADHNA with its “Mere Sapno Ki Rani”, which was composed by Sachin Dev Burman and performed by Kishore Kumar. But when I saw the movie in 1970 and its romantic picturization, the beautiful scenery and the background plantation fascinated me. Most of you must have seen the famous narrow gauge Darjeeling railway track which has been the epitome of many romantic Indian movies featuring the top Indian stars. Down the memory lane is the nostalgic reminder of MERE SAPNOO KI RANI which shows RAJEESH KHANA riding in a jeep and serenading to Sharmeela Tagore sitting on the window side of the Darjeeling Express pretending to read a book but her ears are listening to the serenade sung by RAJEESH KHANNA. Similarly in the latest award winning movie BURFI it also shows glimpse of the narrow gauge railway track of Darjeeling from which India is earning multi million dollars as a result of tourism and as a hill station which is a tourist attraction. India is still maintaining its Darjeeling Railway track in a superb condition so as to attract people to this highly elevated tourist resort. At the time of partition in 1947 Pakistan inherited many tourist attractions in which the Z.V.R better known as the ZHOB valley railways has been a magnetic attraction and has great historical significance. The nearest I came to see this magnificent railway tract was in 1964 when I was at that time a student of Cantonment Public school Quetta and went on a scouting trip to Lora lai and Zhob, little knowing that in future my restless and adventurous spirit will make me fall in love with these places. The year 1986 may be marked as a black year for Z.V.R when the last railway engine plied on this narrow gauge railway track never to be used again and the dismantling of this line began. What remains now are the up rooted railway track beds, the dismantled bridges with their piers sticking out like sore thumbs and the dilapidated railway stations en-route from Bostan to Zhob. There were eleven railway stations on the Z.V.R and amongst them was KAN MAHTERZAI, which

is the highest railway station in Pakistan, located at the height of 2224 meters (7295 feet) above sea level even higher than Murree. The Gumm railway station on the Darjeeling line is about 35 feet higher and thus is the highest narrow gauge railway station in the world.

During First World War, a Railway line was laid from a place called Khanai (30 km north of Quetta) to a place called Hindubagh (renamed as Muslimbagh in 1960s). The work started on Khanai-Hindubagh line in 1916 and was opened for rail traffic in 1921. In 1927, the Hindubagh to Qila Saifullah section was opened and finally the section up to Zhob was opened in 1929. For a long part of its journey, the railway track followed the Zhob River and thus it was called the Zhob Valley Railway. The British interest in this area grew when chromate was discovered between KAN MAHTERZAI & Hindu Bagh in 1901 & mining on a massive scale was undertaken as this chromate was used in production of munitions during the First World War. KAN MAHTERZAI situated between Kuchlag and Muslim bagh became an important stopover point for the British war effort, this discovery made the British to lay a railway line between Quetta and Muslimbagh for the transportation of chromate. ZVR was a tiny Narrow Gauge (2’-6”) railway track as it ran northeast from Bostan on the Quetta-Chaman route to Zhob. Its length of three hundred kilometers made it the longest Narrow Gauge line in the subcontinent. Today nothing much is left of the desolate and abandoned KAN MAHTERZAI railway station as it is in a state of decrepitude and ruin. It is now a rather quiet place, as no longer those small narrow gauge engines haul passengers and good bogies on this once very active railway of the Indo-Pak subcontinent. No more is there the hustle and bustle of miners, British soldiers, traders and the locals. Nor there is the aroma of typical Balochi cuisines like sajji, the karak chai stalls that were once there. Finally the days of narrow gauge came to an end due to wearing out of the narrow gauge engines and bogies. This line became a victim of neglect, callousness coupled with inefficiency and corruption. Some times in the late eighties (80’s) a half-hearted attempt was made to

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revamp the line and the resting locomotives that were gathering rust and dust in the sheds at Bostan were overhauled. But no effort was made to redo the civil works of the disintegrating line. From time to time the refurbished locomotives were periodically fired to keep them at work. By and by all was forgotten and the last time it was heard that they were beginning to lose their shine once again. Many people of that area still remember the magnificence, splendor and grandeur days of the Z.V.R. Winters were very harsh on the tiny Narrow Gauge locomotives, and it was not uncommon for trains to be caught in heavy snowdrifts. There was a great snow storm in 1970 when the railway line was covered in deep snow up to the height of the Cow catcher of the steam locomotives, which just could not make their way forward. The engine driver and the fireman kept the fire alive waiting for the rescue train to come which also bogged about 5 kilometers away.

From the tourism point of view KAN MAHTERZAI was a winter attraction as the whole treeless area around the station was covered with snow as far as the eye could see with the orchards of apricot and almond and the mounds of Bostan in the background giving it an added attraction. There was a ticket window but only for those who cared to pay, as most of the travelers on this line considered it their moral duty not to pay. Indeed, that was one of the reasons for the lineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s untimely demise. I as a social activist and an ecologist long for the day when this great jewel in the tourist Map of Pakistan will be fully restored to its former zenith and grandeur, when the writ of the government will be fully implemented in these areas and the chug chug of the steam engines will be heard heading on the ZVR line and early in the morning the bearer will bring in my English breakfast telling me that KAN MAHTERZAI will be the next stop.

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Garas Forever By: Khuzaima Fatima Haque

“The day of my marriage ceremony, my mother called me in to her room and handed me a beautiful violet sari with intricate gara designs all over it, saying that she was handing over our family’s traditional gara to the next generation. I became the owner of a family tradition that I would pass on to my next generation. The gara symbolized, history, culture and the standing of my family in society,” says Perin Marblewalla. Intricately woven roses, sparrows, swans, and all birds and flowers associated with heaven make up a gara patti design. The Gara is the traditional attire worn by Parsi brides and ladies. It is a must have item on a Parsi bride’s trousseau and a much sought after traditional art. In fact garas are now collector’s items since the value of a gara increases with each passing year. The art is as old as civilization. Its origin can be traced three hundred years back, when Parsi businessmen travelled to China for trade. As spices and cotton were sold at the Chinese markets, the Parsi businessmen exchanged these items for Chinese embroidery. Once home, the delicate Chinese embroidery designs found their way to the Parsi ladies’ wardrobes by being copied onto saris. The minute motifs were mixed with traditional Parsi designs to make new, even more intricate designs that became known as Parsi Gara. The Chinese artisans would use a single thread for one gara patti. This meant that they would embroidery the sari from top to bottom with a single thread. Secondly, the embroidery would also tell a tale. Initially only the rich Parsi women were in a position to buy a gara. Rich red, violet or purple would be used in the past since they were the colours of aristocracy. The designs of the gara would be such that either the gara would be fully embroidered or have a border with embroidery sprinkled all over or just partially. The earliest garas were embroidered on all four borders. Later, only two sides were embroidered. Fruit, flower, and bird motifs were dominant. The most common stitches found on a gara are that of the satin and French knot. Since the motifs are hand embroidered, the front and back of the gara patti looks similar. In the past, off-white thread was the most popular choice. Pastels were also favoured to a large extent. As many as twenty to thirty different colours were then used to give a painting like effect. The texture of the thread could be either cotton or silk although the latter is more effective. It would take approximately eight to nine months to complete one gara. Today, modern versions of the traditional gara incorporate traditional motifs with Swarovski crystal and touches of gold and silver interweaving. Pakistani designers have reinvented the craft and added new colours, latest stones and stitches to make the gara stand out on wedding outfits as well as ready to wear lines. The original garas needed no ironing and had to be stored in special wooden carved chests with a small pouch of select spices, to do away with any smell given off by the silk. When well looked after and properly stored, a gara can last as long as three hundred years.

MUGHAL

ARCHITECTURE IN

LAHORE By: Dr. Shaukat Mahmood

The first town of importance that benefited by the establishment of the Mughal empire in the Punjab was naturally Lahore. Indeed, the early period of the Mughals can undoubtedly be regarded as the golden age of the history of Lahore. Once again it became the seat of a royal residence. The Mughal proved to be the most enlightened patrons of literature and fine arts and Lahore became a seat of learning under them. From the imperial courts of Bukhara and Samarqand; learned men, poets, authors, orators, and men versed in science and technology gathered at Lahore. Fine gardens were laid out, canals were dug, spacious mosques were built, caravansaryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s were constructed and palaces, domes and minarets were erected. In short a powerful impetus was given to architecture.

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Before Babur won the battle of Panipat in 1526, he had invaded Lahore at least four times on one pretext or another. The battle of Panipat was his fifth attempt to defeat an Indian ruler and it was after this victory that he decided to stay for good in India, as laying the foundations of Mughal rule there. Before this battle, as historians puts it, “the followers of Babur contemplated with dismay the prospect of a prolonged stay in the inhospitable regions of India. The happy recollections of the vale of Farghana and its neighbouring mountains made them anxious to return home”. But Babur impressed upon them the incalculable advantages of staying. His words had the desired effect. Babur (actual name Zaheeruddin) was one of the most dynamic personalities in the history of Asia and it was his artistic ideas that laid the foundations of the style which was to follow. In his memoirs he notes that a considerable amount of building construction was undertaken, chiefly in the form of ornamental gardens. Unfortunately not much evidence of his building activity survives. There are however two mosques which have survived, one in the Kabuli Bagh at Panipat and the other a Jami Mosque at Sambhal. Both these mosques were built in 1526. Of a third mosque which he appears to have built within the old Lodhi fort at Agra Babur himself complains that “it is not well done, it is in the Hindustani fashion”. A garden called Aram Bagh was also laid by him in Agra. Naseer al-Din Humayun, son of Babur, three days after the death of Babur, ascended the throne in the city of Agra on December 29th 1530 A.D. His brother at that time held Kabul and Qandahar. In order to seize power he rushed to Lahore and after political maneuvering entered the city with a strong force and took possession of the whole of the Punjab. Humayun was person of mild disposition; he confirmed the rule of his brother in the Punjab beside Kabul and Qandahar. Kamran laid a beautiful garden and constructed a baradari (summerhouse) on the right bank of the river Ravi outside Lahore. The garden has disappeared but the rebuilt baradari survives partially in mid stream. When the trouble between Humayun and Shir Shah broke out, Humayun sought refuge at Lahore but Kamran made a truce with Shir Shah by ceding the Panjab to him. This compelled Humayun to quit Lahore along with his family. Shir Shah attempted to force Humayun into a military confrontation but Humayun fled to Sindh in November 1540, and from there he went to Iran. Shir Shah was a magnificent monarch and with his command over great mercantile cites like Peshawar and Lahore he developed trade with the countries of central Asia and northern China. He connected the cities of Lahore and Multan by road and planted orchards on the way to refresh weary travelers. He unfortunately died long before his time, on May 22nd 1545A.D. Shir Shah on his deathbed regretted that he had not razed the city of Lahore to the ground, for according to him, “Such a large city should not exist on the very road of an invader, who immediately after capturing it on his arrival, could collect his supplies, and orgainse his resources there”. Humayun, after an exile of nearly fifteen years, crossed the Indus unopposed on 2nd January 1555 and marched to Lahore which was abandoned on his approach. He entered the city on 24th February and then proceeded to Delhi. In July Humayun re-entered Delhi but he ascended the throne only to die. He died

of and accident after falling down some steps in the Din-i Panah on January 25, 1556. While a fugitive from India at the court of Shah Tahmasp, Humayun learned a lot about Persian traditions. This enabled him to bring into India various Iranian architectural traditions. These traditions however matured only after his death.

Lahore was a place of great importance in Akbar’s time. Abu’l-fadl speaking of Lahore writes, “Lahore is a large city. In size and population it is among the first. During the present reign the fortifications and citadel have been strengthened with brick masonry and many splendid buildings have been erected.” Akbar founded a royal mint, as well as a carpet manufactory. Skillful gardeners form Persia were invited to lay out gardens at Lahore. Jalal al-Din Muhammad Akbar constructed two buildings outside Lahore for feeding poor Hindus and Muslims. One of them was called Dharampura and the other Khairpura. As a large number of jogis (saints) also flocked to these houses a third house was built and was called Jogipura. Akbar built the Lahore fort anew; a number of buildings were added within it and the whole complex was provided with a high bastioned wall. The architecture of Akbar which survives in this fort is very similar to the architecture of Agra fort. No reference to this fort would be complete without attention being drawn to the remarkable display of tile decoration which is so overwhelmingly displayed over the wall facing west. It extends from the present main entrance to the extreme north. The tile decoration and mosaic work cover an approximate area of 432 x 15.30 m. Masti Gate, which was during his time the main gate of the fort was also built by Akbar. His wife, the Queen of India built a mosque opposite this for her son Jahangir. This mosque still survives. It is called Begum Shahi Mosque. It is decorated with beautiful fresco. Nur al-Din Muhammad Jahangir, son of Akbar, was fond of Lahore and on his way to Kabul and Kashmir held his court at Lahore. Under Jahangir, Kalij Khan was the first governor of Lahore. In the fifth year of his reign he was replaced by Murtada Khan. Murtada Khan built a muhallah (colony) at Lahore bearing his name, as well as a large bath and a chauk (square). The garden of Dilawiz across the river Ravi and the garden of Mirza Kamran were in high favour with the king who passed many festive days there in company of his harem and umara’. During his rule a new block was built in the palace of Lahore (Lahore Fort). This construction was carried out under the supervision of Ma’mur Khan. Jahangir writes in his memoirs that these buildings were finished handsomely by the exertions of Ma’mur Khan, “without exaggeration, charming residences and soul exciting sitting places had been erected in great beauty and delicacy”. Yamin al-Daulah (Asif khan) was the ablest of the governors of Lahore OUR HERITAGE

appointed by Jahangir. He had a special taste for architecture and embellished the town and the citadel (i.e. Lahore Fort). Jahangir added Pearl Mosque in the Fort. The Great mural wall is also ascribed to him and also a part of the Musamman Burj. One time his beloved Anarkali also died at Lahore. Jahangir also built her tomb. The building stands inside the Civil Secretariat today. Jahangir’s last days were embittered by the treason of Nur Mahal (Nurjahan), his beloved consort, who planned to usurp power for her son-in-law Shahryar at the expense of Shahjahan, the rightful heir. Jahangir fell ill Kashmir and was on his way to Lahore when he died at Rajauri in 1628, in the twenty-second year of his reign. His body was sent to Lahore, and according to the will of the Emperor was interred in the garden of his once beloved wife, Nurjahan on the right bank of the river Ravi on the outskirts of Lahore. Shihab al-Din Shahjahan succeeded his father. Shahjahan was born at Lahore in 1000/1592. He received the title of Shahjahan (King of the World) from his father in 1616 when he was nominated as the successor. When Jahangir died Nurjahan wished to make Shihryar the successor. She had married her daughter by Shir Afgan to Shihryar. Shihryar was nicknamed Nashudni (“good for nothing”). Encouraged by Nurjahan and instigated by his intriguing wife (Ladli Begum daughter of Nurjahan), he proclaimed himself emperor at Lahore. Royal troops were sent by Shahjahan, and Shihryar was defeated in a short battle which took place outside Lahore. Shahjahan was particularly attached to Lahore because it was his birthplace. The Padshahnama by Abd al-Hamid Lahari gives a very detailed account of the Emperor’s court at Lahore. He also refers to Wazir Khan as the viceroy of the Punjab who built the famous Wazir Khan mosque at Lahore and a Hammam inside Delhi Gate. According to Abd al-Hamid Lahori the Emperor entertained much respect for fakirs (saints) and paid a visit to Hadrat-i Miyan Mir, whose tomb is also situated in Lahore. As the building of the Daulat Khana (“fort” or “royal residence”) had been neglected for a long time, the Emperor ordered the reconstruction of various parts of it, such as the ghusal khana (bath room) and Khwabgah (sleeping chambers). The restoration work was planned and carried out under the supervision of skillful engineers. The Shahburj (the royal tower) had been built by Jahangir; this failed to impress Shahjahan and he ordered its demolition. A new tower was raised in its placed under the supervision of Yamin al-Daulah Asif Khan who had already displayed much tact and judgment in the embellishment of imperial buildings. After the completion of the block the emperor stayed in it for three days. Shahburj is famous for the Shish Mahal and the Naulakha pavilion. Both these buildings have exquisite examples of finest Pietra-dura work. At Hiran Minar (Shaikhupura), too, the Emperor did not think the

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buildings constructed by Jahangir sufficiently impressive. A new building was therefore ordered. Following the pattern set by the emperor many of the high officials decorated the city with beautiful edifices. Muhammad Salih Lahori in his excellent work Amal-i Salih mentions among others the names of Wazir Khan and Allami Afdal Khan who each constructed spacious edifices at Lahore. In 1631 Ali Madan Khan was made viceroy of Lahore. He was famous as a great canal engineer. He planned and dug a canal from the river Ravi to the famous Shalimar garden, and this supplied water to the garden for all its needs. The Shalimar Garden was laid in 1634. Fruit trees for this garden were brought from Kabul and Qandahar. In the same year (1634) Yamin al-Daulah Asif Khan, brother of Nurjahan and father-in-law of the emperor, died. By the order of Shahjahan his remains were interred in the land west of the mausoleum of Jahangir. A grand dome was ordered to be built over the grave. In the following year (1635) Nurjahan also died. She was buried in a mausoleum which she had herself built close to the tomb of her brother Asif Khan. Shahjahan died at 74 in 1666 in captivity. Aurangzib, his son became the emperor of India.

Shahjahan’s strong interest in architecture extended to the designs and plans of the buildings. His first and most famous building was the Taj Mahal at Agra which was intended to contain the tomb of his wife.

“Augustus’s boast that he found Rome of brick and left it of marble, has its counterpart in the building productions of Shah Jahan, who found the Muhgul cities of sandstone and left them of marble”. There is no doubt that Shahjahan demolished many structures of red sandstone built by his predecessors and in their place built marble palaces. Owing to the prosecution of protracted wars in the Deccan Aurangzib

had less time to hold his court at Lahore than his predecessors. But Lahore remained the dar al-saltanat (capital). His first visit to Lahore was in 1659 when he stayed in the garden of Fayd Bakhsh (Shalimar Bagh) and paid a brief visit to the Daulat Khana (the Fort). He also went to the Masjid-i-Wazir Khan and offered prayers there. Even though he spent little time at Lahore, Muhiyy al-Din Muhammad Alamgir Aurangzib did not neglect it entirely. Thus in the year 1662 he ordered a protective embankment to be built to save Lahore form deluges. This was about 6.5km in length. Flights of steps were made at intervals for people to bathe. The Badshahi Mosque, a far more ambitious project, was completed in the year 1637. It is a magnificent structure and the finest architectural achievement of Aurangzib. The architectural productions of the Mughals during the later half of the 17th century were less numerous and of lower standard than those executed under the previous rulers of the same dynasty. A characteristic example of this dwindling interest in architecture is the mausoleum of Aurangzib’s wife, Rabi’ah Durrani, at Aurangbad, which is a grotesque reproduction of the Taj Mahal. In fact the Badshahi Mosque of Lahore is the only monument, which reaches the highest standards of Mughal architecture. It was called Lal Masjid by the British because of the red sand-stone of which it was wholly built except the bulbous marble domes. It is believed that Zib al-Nisa’ daughter of Aurangzib built a garden at Lahore. Chauburji was one of its gateways. Some historian say the garden was built by one of the daughter of Shahjahan. A small tomb in the Nawankot area is considered as the tomb of Zib al-Nisa’ but it is not correct. After the death of Aurangzib in 1707 the collapse of the empire was only a matter of time, and the few buildings in the Mughal style that were erected after this date are a melancholy proof of the decadent architecture that ensued. Dara Shikoh, the elder brother of Aurangzib, who was put to death in 1659, was a great lover of monuments just like his father and he possessed fine literary taste. He was fond of Lahore where he was extremely popular and he fixed his residence there. He adorned the city with beautiful buildings and market places. The Sultan ki Sara’i and Chauk Dara Shikoh were built by him. This chauk had four gates on each side, decorated with kansi work and in shape and style resembling the gateway of Wazir Kahn’s mosque. Dara was faithful disciple of Hadrat-i Miyan Mir and he had planned a grand mausoleum for the saint but his life did not allow him to do that. His wife Nadirah is also buried close to the mausoleum of Hadrat-i Miyan Mir. Lahore was the first city in Pakistan to receive the attention of the sons of Timur and it was also the first to fall into decay. Practically no monument of imperial quality of status was added to this city after Aurangzib. OUR HERITAGE

An Interview with H.E. Ambassador Dr. Cyrill Nunn German ambassador to Pakistan

Pakistanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history and its cultural heritage are fascinating By: Ishrat Hyatt Ambassador Dr. Cyrill Nunn presented his credentials to President Zardari on July 12, 2012. Dr. Cyrill Nunn was born on 11 March 1958 in Duesseldorf, Germany. He is married and has three children. Q. This is your second tenure in Pakistan. What are the overall changes you have noticed between your first stay in the country fifteen years ago and the present? 1988 I was posted as Consul in Islamabad. This was my very first assignment abroad. It was possible at that time to drive by car from Iran to Pakistan. That is exactly what I did. Nowadays it would probably be difficult to travel on your own from Zahedan through Baluchistan North to Islamabad. In those days the security situation was very good. Islamabad is a much more prosperous and lively place nowadays. Another very positive change is the existence of a vibrant and articulated press in Pakistan.

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Q. Do you think the general bilateral relations between Pakistan and Germany are good enough, or are there room for improvement? Germany and Pakistan look back on a long and close relationship as partners in many areas. In this regard cultural and academic exchange, but also economic ties have been prospering for many decades and are providing a found basis for Pakistan-German ongoing exchange. Since over 52 years we have now been partners in the field of Development Cooperation. We have been able to cooperate for decades in areas like energy supply and efficiency. Now we all know, that in both of these sectors many tasks lie ahead of us and Pakistan faces many challenges in providing quality education to its youth and sustainable and affordable energy supply to its citizens and the private sector - however the long-standing partnership and mutual understanding that derives from our cooperation is a major advantage. We are supporting Pakistan in the best way possible and along the needs of its citizens. Q. Are you nervous about moving around the country or have you visited different places? If so, what was your general impression – both positive and negative? I try to get to know the country as much as possible. I am frequently in Lahore and Karachi, and I also visited Quetta and Khyber Pakhtunkhwa several times. I also had the chance to visit Pakistan’s North a few weeks ago together with my wife – and I have to say I am deeply impressed. Security is, of course, always an issue. Frankly speaking: If it were possible to travel throughout the country without having to worry about security issues all the time, that would make thinks a lot easier – especially for German visitors and businessmen. Q. Pakistan has a rich cultural heritage. Have you had the opportunity to see/hear/experience any of it and if so can you comment on this aspect of the country? Whether it is the history of the great Mughals, the ancient Gandhara culture or modern history – Pakistan history and its cultural heritage are fascinating. Many German scientists and archaeologists are doing researches on these fields, and the German government has shown great interest in various projects. Only recently, Germany partially funded the restoration of the ancient city walls of Lahore – just to name one prominent example; wherever I travel in Pakistan I am eager to visit the beautiful historical sites of your country: For instance the unique old city of Lahore, the magnificent Fort of Peshawar or the hidden treasures of an extraordinary place as Kaplu.

Q. For more than half a century DAAD (German Academic Exchange Service) has been actively supporting the academic exchange between Pakistan and Germany. In what manner is this exchange beneficial to both countries? In 2012, DAAD supported 485 Pakistani students, graduates and academics at German universities - many of them funded by the HEC. In exchange, 53 German fellows were funded while studying, teaching or doing research in Pakistan - many of them within the framework of the 21 DAAD funded joint university projects. Universities in Pakistan are looking for international partners to further strengthen their research and teaching capacities. German universities in return welcome talented young people from all over the world to join their degree courses and research teams and contribute to the diversity and global perspective of research and teaching. Thus, if a Pakistani PhD student spends three or four years in Germany, then returns to his/her home university and maybe even starts a cooperative project with his/her German PhD supervisor, it is a benefit for both sides. There are also a number of German scientists from the fields of geography, anthropology, politics and cultural studies taking a special research interest in Pakistan. They closely cooperate with Pakistani universities and the benefit again is a mutual one. Q. Germany is Pakistan’s biggest trading partner in the European Union. Recently a group of Pakistani businesspersons visited your country. What was significant about the visit and do you think it will bring about an increase in bilateral trade? The Pakistan Business Days in Berlin and Munich were organized by the Pakistan German Business Forum with the support of the German Embassy and the General Consulate in Karachi and took place from 30-31 October. With 90 Pakistani high-level business representatives from various sectors this was by far the biggest ever-Pakistani business delegation to Germany. The delegation was led by the Chief Minister of Punjab, Shahbaz Sharif, and accompanied by high-level representatives from both the federal and the provincial levels. The delegation was received by the then German Minister for Foreign Affairs, Dr. Guido Westerwelle and met with numerous interested German companies. Altogether more than 300 businessmen and government representatives participated in the Pakistan Days. Many business contacts were established and several participating German companies have already travelled to Pakistan to further explore trade & investment opportunities in Pakistan. Especially in the area of renewable energies (solar, biogas, wind) the interest is very high. A visit of a German business delegation to Pakistan is planned for 2014 in order to follow up on the success of the Pakistan Days. OUR HERITAGE

Want to get rid of high cholesterol?

Let the fiber do the wonders By: Dr. Babur Zahiruddin

Many a times you have been to the Shopping Malls and Utility stores and you go to the section of edibles and without even giving a glance you go past this wonderful fibre perched on the shelf packed in bottles & sachets waiting for you to take it home where it can do wonders for you. Somehow or the other you ignore this wonderful fibre because you are not aware of its multipurpose healthy properties.

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It was way back in 1982 when I left the army and returned to civilian life that my weight from 80 kgs shot up to 95 kgs along with arise of my blood pressure. On examination of my lipid profile I was diagnosed as a case of high cholesterol leading to hypertension and insomnia. I was given high doses of cholesterol lowering drugs like Lipitor & tranquilizers Librium for my insomnia. Now having lived an active life all throughout my army career the return to sedentary and static way of life took a toll of my health and mental faculties. I myself being a doctor prescribe drugs and medications for my patient but I am paradoxically opposed to taking medicines myself, made this pledge that I will reduce my cholesterol and blood pressure without taking medication & resorted to dietary abstinence and exercises. After a passage of more than three months, I found that despite my vigorous exercise and strict abstinence there was hardly any dent in the levels of my lipid profile. At that time an elderly friend of mine suggested that I should take Isabghol Husk daily and my cholesterol levels will come down. This happened June 1982 and now after 30 years I have been taking this fibre daily without fail. My cholesterol levels these days remain in the upper limits of normal mainly attributed to my hereditary family tendency and to my wayward eating habits of consuming NIHARI’S, Paye’s and Haleem which I savor as delicacy but never has my cholesterol level gone above the normal limits. Thanks to the wonderful dietary fibre ISABGHOL. Isabgol is derived from Psyllium seed husks and is also known as ispaghula. Isabgol, are portions of the seeds of the plant Plantago ovata, (genus Plantago), a native of India. They are hygroscopic, that is they absorb water expanding many times and become mucilaginous.

These Psyllium seed husk are indigestible and are a source of soluble dietary fiber. They are used to relieve constipation, irritable bowel syndrome, and diarrhea. They are also used as a regular dietary supplement to improve and maintain regular Gastro intestinal tract transit. The inert bulk of the husks help provide a constant volume of solid material irrespective of other aspects of the diet or any disease condition of the gut. Some recent research has also shown them to be promising in lowering cholesterol and controlling diabetes.

takes them by mixing them with water or another fluid. A typical dose is one to three teaspoons per glass of water. My personal experience is that of putting two table spoons of isabgol in the mouth and gulping it down with two glasses of water. Of course gargling may have to be done two three times so as to remove the remnants from the teeth and the palate. The best time to take this is one hour before dinner so that it gives you a feeling of fullness of the stomach or immediately after meals. There may be some people who may have adverse allergic reactions, especially among those having regular exposure to psyllium dust, gastrointestinal tract obstruction may occur, especially or those with prior bowel surgeries or anatomic abnormalities, or if taken with inadequate amounts of water. Isabgol, (or Ispaghol in Pakistan) comes from the Sanskrit words asp and ghol, meaning “horse flower,” which is descriptive of the shape of the seed. India dominates the world market in the production and export of psyllium. Isabgol is mainly used as a dietary fiber, which is not absorbed by the small intestine. The pure mechanical action of psyllium mucilage absorbs excess water while stimulating normal bowel elimination. Although its main use has been as a laxative, it is more appropriately termed a true dietary fiber and as such can help reduce the symptoms of both constipation and mild diarrhea. The laxative properties of isabgol are attributed to the fiber absorbing water and subsequently softening the stool. Isabgol Psyllium is produced mainly for its mucilage content. The term mucilage describes a group of clear, colorless, gelling agents derived from plants. The milled seed mucilage is a white fibrous material that is hydrophilic, meaning that its molecular structure causes it to attract and bind to water. Upon absorbing water, the clear, colorless, mucilaginous gel that forms increases in volume by tenfold or more. There are many varieties of Isabgol available in the market and is marketed in open, sachet, bottle or packets but be sure to use the clean, impurity free and refined brands available in the market. The latest addition is the highly refined variety known as Serene Isabgol. So next time when you go to the stores please make it a point to purchase this wonderful fibre and make it a permanent feature of your dining table. Use this wonderful fibre regularly for three months and with a little bit of exercise and abstinence your health parameters will improve remarkably and your body weight will come down thanks to the miracle effect of this fascinating fibre.

The husks are used whole in their natural state, or dried and chopped or powdered for easier consumption. In either of these forms, one OUR HERITAGE

By: Khuzaima Fatima Haque

An education rich country, a library in each community, a book in every child’s hand: This is a dream that Alif Laila Book Bus Society, a Lahore based NGO, committed to promoting reading culture in Pakistan and evolving solutions to Pakistan’s educational problems within the given socio-economic constraints, harbours. So for two consecutive days architects, puppeteers, storytellers and interactive theatre trainers met to breathe, read and talk libraries.

A grand two day conference titled, “Setting Up Community Libraries for Children” was organized in Lahore on the 5th and 6th of October at the Hospitality Inn. This was made possible through a collaborated effort between Alif Laila Book Bus and the International Board on Books for Young People (IBBY) Sharjah Fund.

Society. “A library can be anywhere and owned by the community. Children can set up a library and be responsible for it. It can be in small corners, larger rooms, or community spaces! The idea is to open up the world to Pakistan’s communities and what better way to do that than making books available”, adds Kazim.

“We simply wanted the participants to break free of the idea that a library must be big, have lots of books and be extremely organized,” explains Ms. Basarat Kazim, President of the Alif Laila Book Bus

From ten in the morning to five in the evening the participants listened to, and interacted with speakers, involved themselves in brainstorming sessions, worked together and got hands on

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but also got to know about the culture of each other’s areas. Since the participants hailed from as far as Chitral in the north to underprivileged areas in Baluchistan, it was the first time some of them had actually met others from different parts of Pakistan. Bringing them under one roof for the selected days of the conference, meant bringing these people with similar beliefs about libraries to share and exchange ideas to strengthen the bond and innovate new techniques to impart knowledge. “For me, it was the first time to know what type of conditions existed in Sindh for libraries and what problems the children of Baluchistan faced currently with regard to libraries”, elaborates Um-e-Laila. At the end of the sessions, many a friendships were born, Facebook IDs exchanged and phone numbers shared. experience of using minimum resources to set up a model library. In the two days, the participants conferred on different aspects of setting up and running low cost, vibrant community libraries for children. The Speakers conducted various workshops in which participants were divided into different groups and were given materials to make beautiful interesting spaces for children to come to and read. Participants’ active involvement depicted how well they understood the idea of setting up innovative libraries without necessarily spending a lot of cash. On the first day, Ms Meaghan Lueck, a University student in the U.S. shared her experience of setting up a library in Senegal through a Skype call. Talking about the ups and downs, the moments of worry and the “aha” times she maintained that libraries are an important tool of any developing society and being surrounded with books herself she felt that was the best gift to give to people she felt friendship towards! Qasim Ahmed, an architect and musician who maintained the stance ‘just like ideas cannot be restricted;’ conducted another interesting session ‘a library space does not have any boundaries.’ A library can be under a tree or a corner of a street. The main concept is to get children of all ages to read because books open new worlds to them. Restrictions on thought can be removed so easily and widen the scope of learning. Qasim also conducted another session where the participants were asked to build a story from a single sentence given out by the moderator. “This was extremely enjoyable, because at the end of the session, each one of us had participated and made up a story, none had ever read or heard,” said a participant. Later on the participants who had come from all over Pakistan, were divided into four groups, handed basic props like a charpoy, sheets, stools and cardboard shelves and given the task to innovate and set up community libraries in a designated space. At the end of the session there were four colourful library spaces and the level of innovation was quite exemplary!

The conference also helped build bridges with similar organizations like Alif Laila Book Bus. Pratham, the largest non-governmental organization working to provide quality education to the underprivileged children of India works for the children in the slums of Mumbai city. Today it reaches out to millions of children living both in rural and urban areas through a range of interventions. Exchange of ideas is a must for any concrete step towards development and the conference focused on this too. Pratham’s life changing work with and in communities was also discussed in detail. As the conference ended, participants essentially were going back to their respective areas with a whole lot of new ideas to implement as well as taking back with them newly-sharpened skills for creating community libraries. The focus on the crying need for libraries, understanding realities on the ground, shifting focus from large spaces and thousand book collections to small reading areas and limited books was essentially there. Moreover, the notion that the power books wield in making children come to grips with difficult situations was also reinforced.

Ms. Samia Mumtaz, an artist of great repute, also conducted a story telling session, involving the participants and imparting a new skill of making story telling an enjoyable activity. “Although the story was in Punjabi, I learnt how raising and lowering of the voice can make story telling so much fun. Now I can go back to Peshawar and tell stories in a new way to children in my local language that is Pushto,” says Um-e-Laila, Field Officer at International Rescue Committee based in Peshawar. As part of the conference, three awards were announced. Proposals were sought for best designs for community libraries. Bundles of books for ten more innovative ideas would also be given out. Not only did the participants learn a lot about community libraries,

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Neelaan Bohotho

A HIDDEN PEARL OF MARGALLAS

Margallas are one of the most interesting and attractive places throughout the country with diversified activities. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a paradise for adventure seekers as there are lovely tracks for day hikes and for mountain biking with some camping places. The flora and fauna of the area is remarkable with a variety of shrubs, plants and trees along with several common and valuable species of reptiles, animals and birds.

By: Khuzaima Fatima Haque There are layers of ridges in Margalla hills and the highest point or ridge, which we see from Islamabad, is called as first ridge. There are several places of interest on the both sides of Margallas and Neelaan Bohotho is one of the hidden pearls of Margallas. Not publically famous or commonly known, never published in tourism maps, Neelaan has a unique importance and a worth visiting place due to its scenic and mystic importance. Neelaan River, basically a small stream, flows after the first ridge of Margallas, behind Chauki and Pir Sohawa. Margallas are extremely scenic and picturesque and its a blessing in disguise that the region is rarely visited thus staying in its pristine form and still less polluted. Neelaan River runs through the valley of Talhar and then flows down towards the province of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. The whole area is attractive but the most interesting place is the village of Neelan Bohotho. This is a small village, approachable through a rough

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road, where a 4-wheel drive vehicle is required, however if the road condition gets better, it would be easily accessible by a car. Few years ago, we reached there after crossing Margalla hills on foot while a comfortable vehicle was arranged to bring us back after the visit. It was a lovely open and sunny day but with cool and refreshing breeze, which helped us cross the Margalla first ridge and to complete our hike with basic amenities to carry in our backpacks. Our plan was to enjoy a camp night with a BBQ dinner and a bonfire, after a tough walk of 4 to 5 hours. While a support team reaching there through road to establish camp and arrange BBQ. Crossing the layers of Margallas, we started descending down with hope of having a comfortable stay with hot and delicious food. In a pleasant afternoon, we found a green dome of a tomb in sight, which gave a soothing and satisfying feel that we are about to reach our destination. A green valley surrounded by hills with pine trees was

from villagers or visitors and living freely in the stream. Behind the pond, there was a rock and under the tree of date palm and surrounded by some bushes, there was a place which used to be a meditation place of Hazrat Bari Imam. He used to feed the fish and due to his blessing, the fish are saved there and according to local villagers no one can catch a fish from there. For us, the people from cities and living in modern world, it was not understandable and most of us did not believe, rather started planning to stay for another night there and to enjoy a Fish BBQ in dinner. It was against our common sense to leave so many fish, when they are in easy access and without costing a penny. However, the stories about trying to catch those sacred fish were frightening. beyond our imagination while a stream running through the valley was adding beauty to it. The sun was descending in West and its cool rays were reflecting through the flowing waters of the stream. The sight was superb and around the time when we reached the valley, the whole sky turned into orange and it was wonderful ending of a tough hike. Hot tea served at camp to welcome us, it was a complete relaxing moment, filled with fulfilment and enjoyment. After some rest, the party was in good mood, with delicious BBQ being served and soothing warmth of bonfire, our aching bodies felt relaxed. It was extremely demanding to get up very early in morning and to leave the comfort of a cozy bed but witnessing a sunrise, especially in mountains, is always exquisite. The hassle of getting up very early paid off and it proved worthy to enjoy a wonderful phenomenon of sunrise and the camera capture was stunning. After breakfast at camp, we had a schedule of visiting a place, which we were told was a meditation place of Hazrat Bari Imam, who used to cross the Margallas and meditate here in extreme serene and quite atmosphere. It was an easy walk from our campsite to the place, where we were supposed to go and in a cool morning it was a pleasant walk. We passed by a mazar, which we saw last evening while coming down from Margallas with its prominent green dome. However, we kept on walking further but now along the stream just a couple of hundred meters ahead, we stopped at a green flat place, where the shallow stream had a bend with a comparatively deeper water like a pond. A walk along the shallow Neelaan stream at the bed of green valley with some fields and few houses of local people was a lovely experience. There were few village girls, who came to fetch drinking water for their domestic use, while few others were carrying clothes to wash. A sight of cattle and local people busy in their fields was a typical view of a village, which was surprising as we were just at a short distance from Islamabad, one of most modern capitals of world. Here our trip culminated with the climax of the beauty of that particular place, where we had a wonderful experience with a mythical story of the place. At the turning bend of the stream, there were hundreds of good-sized fish. Throwing some biscuits, they jumped to catch the food and it was amazing that it was not an artificial pond or hatchery but the fish were in a natural and flowing stream and jumping above the surface of water. It seemed that one could easily catch fish as many as desired and even without proper fishing gear. They were so close and in approach. This was unbelievable and dramatic as how such large number of fish are saved

As the fish had a life long blessing of Hazrat Bari Imam and considered as sacred so none of the villagers ever thought about catching them. We were told that once a young man, with rebellious attitude decided to catch some fish and even declared that he will catch fish in the night. The elders tried to stop him but could not persuade him to change his plan. He had a bet with his friends and left home in midnight. By the first rays of sun, the people returning home after saying Fajar prayer, found his dead body near the stream and fish were playing in water as in routine. Till that day started the sad story of his unfortunate demise was heard throughout the valley. Some people had the thought that he was murdered by some relatives to take some old revenge but generally it was believed that it happened due to his attempt to catch sacred fish of Hazrat Bari Imam. After a couple of years, some government servant visited the place and proudly denied the local stories and claimed to catch fish in large quantity, for which he brought a jeep to take the catch along with. In the presence of several people, he caught scores of fish and happily said good-bye to villagers and drove back. Next morning, some local people found his jeep in a ravine from a road turn with his de-shaped dead body. Surprisingly no fish found in his jeep while they witnessed that same number of fish are there in stream. The incident confirmed the curse of the sacred fish and since then no other person tried to catch fish from Neelaan stream. The beautiful valley, its friendly residents, shimmering stream through green fields and forested hills make it an ultimate choice for day trippers from Islamabad. The story of sacred fish adds attraction to the area. A similar kind of legend would say the reason of safety of peafowls of Kallar Kahar, but to narrate some other time.

LISTENTO

SILENCE By: Dr. Babur Zahiruddin

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There are times in life when you can literally listen to silence. Some of you may never have heard of this phrase before nor will you give emphasis on the literal meaning of this and some may just skip reading this thinking it to be some kind of an over statement of an eager mind but remember, One who does not understand your silence will never appreciate the wisdom of your words. I fell in love with this Utopian paradise on a hunting trip about a year ago... as it is like Shangri-La.

lush green hills and your first hand inter action with mother nature and not to forget the English poet William words worth whose poem the cherry tree is still fresh in ones memory Wordsworth even after a lapse of many years. The next hamlet is Talhar with a small free dispensary and the drive for the next 20 minutes or so is a constant steady incline at an even gradient and finally you start seeing signs of houses and buildings in the foreground and then the board of union council Angoori can be seen with a small village bazaar this is called Behak Gali which the villagers pronounce as back gali.

Shangri-La is a fictional place described in the 1933 novel Lost Horizon by British author James Hilton. Hilton describes Shangri-La as a mystical, harmonious valley, enclosed in the western end of the Kunlun Mountains. Shangri-La has become synonymous with any earthly paradise, and particularly a mythical Himalayan utopia — a permanently happy land, isolated from the outside world. In the novel Lost Horizon, the people who live at Shangri-La are almost immortal, living years beyond the normal lifespan and only very slowly aging in appearance.

You go past the village bazaar and after 200 yards you come to an inconspicuous turning on the right which is surreptitiously not visible as it is camouflaged and shaded from the eye by vegetation and over growth and you park your car there. Take your belongings in a back pack along with a bottle of water for it is a down ward trek of about 1.50 km on a dilapidated dirt track which is not there. This takes a good hiker about 25 minutes to complete as in the last section there is a steep climb of more than 200 feet and you may become breathless in the last stage. Finally you are in DHOK DUMMA which is a mini Shangrila where time stands still for you, here you are secluded from civilisation and have no contact with the outside world as the mobile signals don’t come here. Here you can throw away your tranquilizers and your worries & enjoy mother-nature at the same time you can also do meditation and appreciate Gods creation.

The phrase “Shangri-La” is derived from Tibetan ,”Shang” - a district, pronounced “ri”, “Mountain” = “Shang Mountain” +la, Mountain Pass, “Shang Mountain Pass”.

A strong lover of nature like me somehow finds here solace, solitude, seclusion and peace of mind with a strong affinity to my creator and his creations.

Once you are on Murree road about 10 minutes drive from the convention center after turning right from BARA KOW at satra meel (MILESTONE 17) you are on the Murree expressway and then a short distance before the toll plaza there is an arrow sign showing a right curve to Angoori. You take this right curve and find yourself on a single metalled road which is narrow and not well maintained as the sides and the road shoulders are in a dilapidated conditions but the aura and ambiance is scenic and beautiful that you forget about the bad condition of the road and focus on the greenery and enjoy the drive.

The greenery & the weather is ideal as in May June, you may need a blanket at night and a refuge from the scorching heat of the plains in summers. Appreciate the shrubs, herbs, hedges, trees, twines the wild growing green grass and the blooming flowers, the chirping of the birds the cawing of the ravens and the distant call of the jackals all built together as a nature’s orchestra which is very soothing to ears which have become so much accustomed to the noise and din of the traffic of the town life which is only one hour drive from this place.

The first hamlet that comes is MALLATA which has a very winding road and a small causeway that passes in front of the mosque & the speed becomes slow, crossing that you find yourself climbing a small gradient passing through green fields and a small row of thatched houses which are a reminder that we are still living in the medieval times. There are large poultry farms scattered at varying distances on the road side giving you a nostalgic aroma & constantly reminding you that the ecological balance is being slowly eroded those of you who have a sensitive olfactory nerve may have to hold their breath for a minute or two once you get past the foul stench of the poultry farms. Short drive and you are now passing the hamlet of Bobri which is the last boundary of Islamabad & from there the boundary of Rawalpindi district starts .Then onwards is a small descent and you come to a big ravine which you cross by a bridge as water is flowing beneath it and at a distance on the left side you can see a beautiful cascade which can also serve as an ideal place for family picnic.

Now coming to the caption of my article LISTEN TO SILENCE because here you can literally listen to silence as you can hear your heart beat and if you have a burpy stomach then you can also listen to the complaints of your stomach which usually groans in protest over your over eating. Dhoke Dumma is like Shangrila as narrated by James Milton in his novel as time literally stands still but about the longevity of the residents I cannot say with much certainty as modernization is catching up with them but over all the people are strong and sturdy as they have to walk several kilometers to reach places and the women folk have to fetch water from long distances from springs and brooks which are located at a height from their abode. So next time you feel tense apprehensive & depressed just take pack your haversack lunch, a bottle of mineral water, put on your walking shoes and head for the hills, your escape from modernization into the pacifying serenity of Shangrila and take refuge in the arms of mother nature in Dhoke Dumma which awaits you only 30 minutes away from Islamabad.

From this place onwards there is a steep ascent for about five miles and you have to put your vehicle in low gears in order to make this climb which might be taxing on the old vehicles and even the experienced drivers with new vehicles may experience difficulty in the drive. To compensate, this is the beautiful scenery through the OUR HERITAGE

By: Maria Saifuddin

As we look through the pages of history, the tales of Legend, myth, fantasy and fiction, we find stories of extraordinary people with great skill and talent or ordinary people who accomplished tremendous feats. These are the individuals whom we find at every stage in our life - a source of inspiration and motivation, and we look up on them, admire them and want to be like them, they are our role models, our heroes. They give us hope that we too, could someday achieve greatness. Pakistan is bestowed with so many individuals who are a source of pride for the whole nation, the space only allow to admire a few of our unsung heroes.

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World Snooker Champion: Mohammad Asif The Snooker World Championship of 2012 brought with it an abundance of joy for the entire nation when Pakistan’s Muhammad Asif was crowned the World Champion. He hails from Faisalabad and is the third Pakistani to have reached the finals of the Amateur Championship and the second Pakistani to have won. Previously, Muhammad Yousaf was graced with this title back in 1994. In 2003, Muhammad Saleh reached the finals but lost to India’s Pankaj Advani. The 2012 IBSF (International Billiards & Snooker Federation) World Snooker Championship was held in Sofia, Bulgaria. It was a close match against England’s Gary Wilson. Muhammad Asif managed to gain victory over his opponent in the final frames and brought the trophy home. This was his fourth appearance in the Championship, undoubtably fourth time turned out to be the charm.

SAF Games: Naseem Hameed - Gold medalist Naseem Hameed is nick named “Queen of Tracks” and rightfully so because on 9th February, 2010 in the 11th SAF(South Asian Federation) Games, she fiercely bolted over the 100 meter track, clocked in at an incredible 11.81 seconds and brought the Gold medal home. Naseem was born in 1988, Korangi Karachi and comes from an underprivileged background. She paved her way towards international acclaim through sheer willpower and determination; she underwent intense training regimes due to which she stood victorious in such a competitive event. Her future goal was to compete in the 2012 Olympics but unfortunately she had to quit the sport altogether due to lack of support from the government. She is now working on establishing “Naseem Hameed Sports Academy” in Korangi, the project is under way and she considers that its completion will be her greatest achievement yet. At one hand, our leaders announce to give out hefty loans to young people for their prosperity, but the talent that already exists is not given the due support, which leads to a critical question as to why the unsung heroes of Pakistan are being deprived of the deserving support?

Scrabble Champion: Muhammad Sulaiman Pakistan’s scrabble champion, Muhammad Sulaiman scrabbled his way to securing first position in the Malta international Scrabble Open Championship, 2010. The 70 year old word smith overthrew former world champion Nigel Richards to third rank. A total of 60 contestants from 14 countries participated in the event that was held at the Suncrest Hotel, it was the biggest tournament in Malta organized that year. Sulaiman went to participate in the tournament at his own expense, refusing to use the limited funds offered by Pakistan Scrabble Association (PSA). He would rather see the funds be used to promote

the game locally. Sulaiman came in third at the 23rd annual Gulf Scrabble Championship, he was delighted to have gotten the title whilst playing against competitors of the greatest caliber. Thirty competitors took part in the event, young and old. It was an interplay of sheer intellect.

Tennis Champion Aisam-ul-Haq Qureshi Aisam-ul-Haq Qureshi was born on 17 March 1980 in Lahore. He is the top ranked tennis players in Pakistan and the only Pakistani to reach the Grand Slam Final in 2010 He won his first Davis cup Match in 1998, paired with Mohamed-Khaliq Siddiq. In 2005 at the Islamic Solidarity Games Aisam stood victorious in the singles, doubles and team rounds and brought home three gold medals. On 3rd November 2009, Qureshi and his partner James Cerretani defeated Roger Federer and Marco Chiudinelli in straight sets at the Basel Open. He considers this to be one of his greatest achievements. He won his first ever ATP (Association for Tennis Professionals) title at the 2010 South Africa Tennis Open in Johannesburg and took the world by storm with his partner Rohan Bopanna. In the same year the Indo-Pak duo landed their first ever Grand Slam Quarter final Wimbledon Championship. In 2013 Aisam won the doubles open titles of the Miami and Stockholm Open .In the latest ATP world Rankings, he has secured 10th position which is indeed outstanding and a source of immense pride for the whole country.

The fastest man In Asia - Abdul Khaliq Abdul Khaliq born on 23 March, 1933 is a retired Sprinter. Back in his heydays, he was a world class athlete. He competed in the Asian Games and won the Gold Medal twice in the year 1954 and 1958 for the 100 meter Relay. In the 1954 Asian games he was dubbed, the fastest man in Asia, Clocking in at 10.6 seconds. In the year 1954, 1958 he also won the silver medal twice and a bronze medal in various sprint events in the Asian Games. He participated in the 1956 Melbourne Olympics and 1960 Rome Olympics, although unable to snatch victory he was one of the top five in the events. He is among the world class athletes and his achievements and dedication to the sport have made him an example for the young generation to follow in his footsteps. Our champs are a source of inspiration for youngsters who desire to participate in sports as professionals, whether it requires brain or brawn. The accomplishments of all of the great sportsmen show that with hard work and determination success is guaranteed. Living in a country, which is conferred with an unprecedented talent, does the young generation have the proper space and access to the right tools to develop their skill and talents? Perhaps, it could help a few who could get loan money to start own business; wouldn’t it be more enterprising putting the youth of this nation on the right track through setting up of Career Advisory Centers in parts of cities and villages to assess and guide the youth of the potential that they possess and thus putting them in the right direction towards success, in which lies the prosperity of the country.

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KATAS

THE MYSTICAL TEMPLE By: Kashif Hussain Photography: Bilal Safdar

Pakistan is a land of some mightiest mountains, gurgling streams, and rich culture, much of which is unexplored. One of the least explored parts of Pakistani heritage is the number of stunning old temples in the country. What most of us donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know is that Pakistan has some of the holiest sites of different religions such as Sikhism, Hinduism and Christianity. One of the famous ancient Hindu temple Katas Raj is situated in Katas village near the city of Choa Saiden Shah in Chakwal Pakistan. It is among the most ancient relic of Hindu religion. Reaching Katas involves a drive of 220 km via the Islamabad Motor Way exiting at Kalar Kahar. A drive of 25 km on the Kalar Kahar road passing settlements like Khairpur, Daler Pur and Tatral to Choa Saidan Shah, where the ancient temple complex is located. Katas Raj, a complex of beautiful, Hindu temples in the Salt Range, dating, legend has it, to Vedic times. When the Pandava brothers, heroes of the Sanskrit epic Mahabharata, were exiled from their capital Indraprastha (present-day Delhi) by the rival Kauravas, it is

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believed that they dwelled at Katas, and built the original temples. According to one of another Hindu mythology related to Katas Raj is the pond at the temple in Chakwal, which have a mythical association with Lord Shiva; it was formed by the tears of Lord Shiva, which he is believed to have shed after the death of his wife, Satti. The story goes that when Satti died, Lord Shiva cried so much and for so long, that his tears created two holy ponds -- one at Pushkara, Ajmer in India and the other at Ketaksha, which literally means raining eyes, in Sanskrit. It is from this name that the word Katas is derived. According to Hindu mythology once the Pandavas reached a lake

and when they were about to quench their thirst, a Yaksha, the protector of the lake, appeared and said that only those who rightly answer his questions would be allowed to drink from the lake. The four Pandavas failed and were made lifeless by the Yaksha. Finally Yudhishtira was able to answer all his questions following which his brothers were revived. According to one legend, this dialogue took place at the Katas Raj Temple pond whose holy water is believed to have magical powers. Some main temples in the Katas Raj complex are the Hanuman mandir, Ram Chandra Mandir, Shiva Mandir. Important buildings in the site are; the fort cum dwelling of Hari Singh, a Sikh General of Ranjit Singh, a dwelling of Maharaja Sundar Nath and a 12 door square building. Another important landmark is the remains of the stupa claimed to be erected by Emperor Ashoka. One can clearly see many small caves on the other side of the stream, across the road, in the face of the limestone ledges. Buddhist monks were said to be using these for their meditation and that a Buddhist centre of education was in this area in ancient times. Saat Ghara or the Seven Temples: On the topmost platform are a set of small temples which are stated to be the remaining of the 7 temples build by Pandavas, where they spent 4 years out of the 12 years of exile. Three such temples are now standing after renovation. Another interesting aspect of this complex and the area in itself are the limestone rocks that have embedded in them sea shells, fossils and one could also see clear imprints of leaves in the building blocks of stone used in the construction of several temples and their adjacent walls. The temples for long period after 1947 were not repaired till 2005

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Katas Raj is also the place where Alberuni attempted to measure the circumference of the Earth, studied Sanskrit and wrote his renowned Kitabul-Hind (Book of Hind), which depicted the religion, scientific knowledge, and social customs of Hindus. Paras Nath Jogi drew his last breath on Katas. Katas came to be known as Nanaknawas and was a site of contemplation for many large groups of mystics, ascetics and jogis. These temples are spread across uneven slopes within walk able distances in an area that appears to be a valley. Curvy paths and stairs teetering through highlands connect almost all of them to each other. These indulging chronicles clamor the fact that Hinduism is an indigenous religion of the Indian subcontinent while experts view it as the oldest living major religion of the world. In terms of demographics, it is the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s third largest. The romance behind creating these marvels is fairytale-like, full of magic, mystery and drama, adding considerably to their significance.

when the Pakistan government woke up to its potential as a tourist site and repair of the temples was sanctioned. The same year the Dy Indian Prime Minister LK Advani also visited this temple complex. The Pakistan government is now thinking to declare this site as a world heritage site. Though some work on repair of the temples has been done, but still restoration work is in process to save this cultural heritage site. Hari Singh Haveli: Presently there are very few Hindus staying around the temple complex, but Hindu groups from India visit this complex and conduct Puja and other ceremonies. At one end of the temple complex is the haveli of the legendary Sikh warrior Hari Singh Nalva. This was during the days of the Sikh Raj in the 19th century. This is known as Hari Singh Haveli (mansion). Many Hindus from the USA and Canada, who are part of the Indian diaspora visit and pray at these temples. Regular Puja is conducted at the temple without any hindrance from anyone. This points to a pragmatic approach by the majority Muslims of Pakistan. Pakistani government, a Muslim state, maintains this temple complex. This is in sharp contrast to some other countries that do not allow temples and shrines to exist and usually raze them to the ground. In this respect Pakistan does give guarantee to minorities, which is enshrined in the constitution.

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By: Dr. Shaukat Mahmood Not much is known about the Hanging Gardens of Babylon. No one knows their exact location either. It has however become a common belief that Hanging Gardens of Babylon were built by Emperor Nebuchadnezzar II (634-562 BC), the king of Babylonia (reigned 605562). But the real brain behind the laying of these gardens was his Queen. Queen Amytis was from Iran where gardens were in abundance. The real brain, thus, for the building of Hanging Gardens was that of Amytis. I believe that the story of Hanging Gardens is purely a figment of the minds of the writers, just like the myth of Anarkali (There was no ‘maid’ of this name in Akbar’s court). The accounts of Greek and Roman writers like those of Strabo, Diodorus Siculus and Quintus Curtius Rufus, of Hanging Gardens, represent a romantic imagination of an eastern garden and nothing more. The first ever Berossus, a Marduk priest who wrote around 290 BC, gave account of the Hanging Gardens.

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Humayun’s Tomb

In 377 BC, Mausolus and his wife, Queen Artemisia, ruled over the city of Halicarnassus (the capital at that time) and the surrounding area. They stayed rulers for 24 years. When Mausolus died, his queen, who was also his sister (it was custom back then for rulers to marry their sister - yuck,) was heart broken. She built him the most spectacular and unique tomb and it became one of the Seven Wonders of the World. Two years after her husband’s death, Artemisia died. For many centuries the mausoleum stood atop a hill, overlooking the city until earthquakes sent it crashing down. By 1404 AD, only the base of the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus was left - and it’s still there. Mausolus was a ruler of Caria (377–353 BC) he and his wife, who was also his sister, enjoyed a very powerful position. Mausolus is best known for the monumental shrine, the Mausoleum at Halicarnassus, erected for him by his sister and widow Artemisia. Antipater of Sidon, a Greek poet, listed the Mausoleum as one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World along with the Hanging Gardens of Babylonia. Antipater lived during the second half of the 2nd century BC. During the construction of the great edifice, Artemesia died. The architects Satyrus and Pythis, and the sculptors Scopas of Paros, Leochares, Bryaxis and Timotheus, finished the work after her death. The tomb after the name of Mausolus became known as Mausoleum an epithet now used for all large tomb buildings. Zubeidah is another name whose public works are well known, her date of birth is unknown, and she died in 831. Zubaidah’s real name was Sukhainah or Amat al-’Aziz. She was the granddaughter of the Abbasid caliph Al-Mansur, through his son Ja’far, and cousin of al-

Rashid (766-809), who she later married (781-782 AD). It is said that Zubaidah’s palace ‘sounded like a beehive’ because she employed one hundred women maids who had memorized the Qur’an. Religious to the core Zubeidah built numerous caravansara’s, clinics, libraries and roads. One of her roads, which she built from Baghdad to Makkah, Madina and Ta’if was known as Darb-i Zubeidah (Zubeidah Road). On the bank of River Dejlah (now called River Tigris, in Iraq) a crowd had gathered outside the beautiful palace of the queen, waiting for her audience. The queen appeared in the balcony and very gracefully addressed the crowd: “Today I close all the account books on the canal. Those who owe me money need not to pay back. And those whom I owe, will be paid immediately and double the amount.” Saying this, she ordered that the account books be thrown into the river and said: ‘My reward is with Allah.’ The queen was none other than Zubaida, the daughter of the Abbasid caliph Mansur’s elder son, Jaffer, the cousin and wife of the richest and the most powerful of the caliphs, Haroon al-Rashid (170-193 Hijra), the fifth Abbasid caliph. She ordered that a canal be built up to Mecca to provide drinking water to pilgrims. The canal, a remarkable feat of engineering and construction at that time when no modern technology was available, was named after her, Nihr-i Zubaida (Zubaida Canal). It served the believers for more than one thousand years. In the subcontinent royal ladies also played an epoch making role in the history of architecture. Haji Begum, the talented wife of

Taj Mahal

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Nur Jahan’s Tomb

Humayun, built tomb of Humayun at Delhi, which is considered as the archetype of Taj Mahal. Her real name was Bega Begum, after performing Hajj she became known as Haji Begum. She was the first wife of Humayun. She was a wise, well-educated woman and had profound knowledge of medicine and treatment also. Mausoleum of Humayun is her important architectural legacy. This mausoleum was the first one to have been built for a Mughal emperor and was the first garden-tomb on the Indian subcontinent. It remains as a fine example of landscape architecture. Nurjhan (original name Mihr al-Nisa’) was the 20th wife of Jahangir. She was a strong, charismatic and well-educated woman. She was the most powerful and influential woman of the 17th century Mughal Empire. Nurjahan the invention of atter of roses, salimshahi khussa and samosa, the saltish snack all go to her credit. She excelled in the art of embroidery. In the field of architecture her genius remains unsurpassed. She built the tombs of her husband Jahangir at Lahore inside her own garden, her farther I’timad al-daula at Agra and her own also at Lahore beside innumerable caravansara’s. Most of these caravansara’s were built on the route from Delhi to Kashmir. Though not on the same route, one of her beautifully built

the British, is a famous country club that was actually originally a part of the Roshanara Bagh.” Some historians are the view that Raushan Ara built a garden at Lahore also and Chauburji was its main entrance. According to Latif, Zib alNisa, daughter of Aurangzib built the garden. Several other historians contest this claim. They claim that the garden was built by Jahan Ara Begum, one of Shahjahan’s daughters and aunt of Zib al-Nisa’. This claim seems more plausible. Whichever royal Mughal lady was behind this garden it certainly proves that these Mughal ladies excelled in the arts and architecture alike. Last but not the least is the building of Taj Mahal. This monument is a wish of a dying queen immotalised by her husband at the expense of empires economy. In 1631, Shahjahan, emperor during the Mughal empire’s period of greatest prosperity, was grief-stricken when his third wife, Mumtaz Mahal died during the birth of their 14th child. Construction of the Taj Mahal began in 1632. The building of the mausoleum was completed in 1648, while surrounding buildings and gardens took another five years. Shahjahan described the monument like this: were finished five years later. Emperor Shahjahan himself described the Taj in these words: Should guilty seek asylum here Like one pardoned, he becomes free from sin. Should a sinner make his way to this mansion All his past sins are to be washed away. The sight of this mansion creates sorrowing sighs And the sun and the moon shed tears from their eyes. In this world this edifice has been made To display thereby the creator’s glory. Itmad-ud-Daulah Tomb

sara’i still stands at the bank of river Indus near Attock. This is known as Begum ki Sara’i. It has a very picturesque setting. Shahjahan’s daughter Raushan Ara Begum (1617-1671) was a connoisseur of pleasure gardens. She built a garden in Delhi that is still known as Roshanara Bagh. “The garden is located in north Delhi, next to Kamala Nagar Road and Grand Trunk Road. The present-day Roshanara Club which was constructed in the late 19th century by

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HAWKERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S QUAD By: Saifuddin Ismailji

Taking a stroll down the memory lane, I find it surprisingly perplexing that there is no mention of mobile kitchen along the streets of the ancient civilization of the Indus Valley â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the area (now in Pakistan) that developed and introduced a culture of farming to the world. According to the historians, the earliest indications of street hawker relates to ancient Greek and the Roman Empire. A hawkerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mobile kitchen in the form of a hand cart or animal drawn cart rolled along the streets from one place to another giving the benefit of the ability to move around with large gathering of people. Development of rail road popularized the concept of food carts globally. Passengers moving from one place to another needed food while traveling through long pace of time. The early trains had no dining cars and the only option available to a traveler was Food on Cart with the call of hawker that echoed the platforms of the train stations. This form of passenger facilitation has led to worldwide expansion of food on cart with the allotment of Concession Stands issued in the otherwise, restricted areas of the railway premises. The system, although in a variety of shape and size of carts, still operational in developed and under-developed countries including Pakistan. 31

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As if a page torn out of history book, this particular scenario lives on even today - not only in the premises of the animated railways stations of Pakistan but also along the shopping avenues and the streets in the backyards of our homes. Since the past decade or two, we have seen mobile carts not just limited to eating and drinking, but also rendering door to door service: remember those guys carrying a musical like instrument that spun cotton (to disentangle cotton in the quilt) or the big wheel that spun with paddle power to sharpen kitchen knives. However, today we see traditional Pakistani snacks

markets in South Asia and the oldest Food street in Lahore, dating about 200 years back in time. You may find on occasions, musicians playing folk tunes on traditional musical instrument.

and food on the carts and listen to that unmistaken bidding call of the hawker in the street. However, there are roadside stalls that sell a wide variety of food (cooked in varying methods) and beverages. A wide variety includes fried fish (usually in the winter), BBQ, burgers, Shwarma (kebab), biryani (spicy rice), grain food (corn, channay, lentils), vegetable (sweet potato, singhara, cucumber); traditional snacks like gol gappay, dahi ballay, paani-puree, fruit chaat, aaloocholay. And for the sweet tooth, mithai (desserts) like jalaibi, barfi, gulabjaman, kulfi, cotton candy-wool (buddhi kay baal), gola ganda (ice candy) and beverages including seasonal fruit sherbat, lassi (yogurt drink), coffee, variety of tea including the “gulabi (Kashmiri) chaaye” – to name a few. What other place than Lahore befit the capital of a hawker’s quad. Here, the very concept of Food Street is seen in all its traditional setting of food on carts with authentic flavors and method of preparation. The festive sight is a social gathering ground for families, young people and blue collared workers in casual wear as well as attired in haute fashion. However, places like Gawal Mandi Food Street and Old Anarkali Bazaar, although carts have been replaced by fixed food stalls along both sides of the street, the festive site offers a vision, how the food carts once lined up the streets to cater food to shoppers and workers. Named after the legendary Anarkali (the maid of prince Saleem who was sentenced to be buried alive) – the Anarkali Bazaar, near the Mayo Hospital Gate is one of the oldest

Lahore is rich on food culture and at the food on carts along the Mall, the walled city and the streets offer a variety of Lahori titbits and savory cart-cuisines with all time favorites like Lahori Kebab, Lahori Payay (feet of goat), gol gappa, dahi bhalay, paani-puree, halwa puree, samosa, kheer (rice pudding), ras gulla and sweet paan (beetle leaf with sweet condiments). With the growing pollution and shrinking space in Lahore, restaurants have created indoor traditional atmosphere for gourmands to experience cart culture at times trimmed in a showy way however free of air pollutants and probable discomfort of unhygienic surrounding. Karachi is the oldest port town and the modern cosmopolitan city, therefore the hub of mixed food culture. Due to congestion and shrinking of open space, cart food culture is not as it used to be a couple of years ago. While food on cart is available, people tend to avoid because of complementing ingredients of dust and oil fumes added into the original recipe and serve in tainted environs. On the list of traditional Karachi recipe to die for, the Nihari of Burns Road sits on top of the list. Popular even today, you will be wise to opt for a centrally air-conditioned restaurant and imagine the scenario of the sixties and seventies when visitors alike Karachiites would indulge into a savory culinary experience of picking up a plate of nihari or Dhaga Kebab (kebabs skewered on thread) - straight off the cart and conclude with desserts, including Rabri (rubber-textured sweet), jalaibi (flour and sugar sweet) or Habshi-Halwa. Today, people tend to avoid eating food off the carts other than fully cooked skinned food like challi (corn on the cob cooked in black-salt or steamed), sweet potato or boiled soup. Peshawar hawker’s scenario is more or less no different than the one in any large city. The capital of Khyber Pakhtoon Khwah province like Karachi is dust-laden city with a thick layer of air pollutants floating in the air. However cart food is much popular here. Grain snacks, chapli kebab and kehwa (Peshawari green tea) are typical cart food favorites found in the old parts of Peshawar including Qissa Khwani Bazaar, the Bala Hissar Fort area and at the bus terminals and train station. The Hawker’s patio has an up-scale appeal in the parks and along the shopping avenues of the twin-city: Rawalpindi and Islamabad. Visitors from all walks of life, savor a variety of snacks and entrées on the carts. On the weekends, the hawkers proffer a festive mien at the parks and during weekdays, they cart along the busy shopping avenues where shoppers, itinerants and rovers in their posh cars stride by with a handful of servings off the carts. Some of the cart favorites among the locals can be challi (corn), makai (corn grains cooked in hot salt), singhara, sweet potato, pakora, fruit chat, fried fish and Kashmiri chaaye (tea), coffee, chicken corn soup – to name a few.

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SajjiKot Waterfalls

Himalayan Splendour By: Tahir Imran Khan

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while kids and elderly members started walking down to reach the picnic spot, few field chairs were put for senior participants to sit and enjoy the superb scene of waterfall and swimming pool underneath. The food items were placed for time-to time munching.

Pakistan, a mountain wonderland, has a reasonable part of Himalayas with its highest peak Nanga Parbat (in Pakistan). In lower and further foothills of Himalayan range, lie the valley of Kaghan, Murree and Galliat and Hazara region, with several picturesque and scenic places to attract people from all over the country. Besides numerous famous places like Lake Saif-ul-Muluk or places like Thandiani or Ayubia, there are still some extremely interesting and rarely explored places, which are excellent to make a day trip from surrounding regions. Apart from focusing on training of some hardcore mountain activities and organizing strenuous trekking or climbing programs, The Adventure Club â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Pakistan always try to facilitate its members with easy and comfortable family trips to enjoy a weekend. After visiting most of the popular places around Islamabad, the Club invited its members to visit SajjiKot, an extremely exquisite place with its high waterfalls, offering scenery parallel to any place in world. The program was announced and circulated among the members and a good number of participants joined for a cool and pleasant day to enjoy some water activities in the ponds of SajjiKot. SajjiKot is located in Hazara division of KPK province near Havelian, a famous town near Abbottabad. A narrow but reasonably good black top road leads to SajjiKot from Havelian. The participants were invited to join at Tarnol Toll Plaza on GT Road to travel further, while some families had to come from Abbottabad and join at Havelian. A convoy of cars left for the place with kids, parents and friends, while the Club arranged a sitting place with a tent to serve as dressing room. The party comprised of kids from age 6 to elderly people aged 60 plus, making a gathering of people from various age groups and different walks of life. A variety of cuisines were brought by the participants to enjoy the picnic lunch as one dish party at SajjiKot. While travelling to Havelian and after crossing Haripur, we stopped at Sarai Saleh for its famous Tarka Pakora. There are now several shops serving good quality, delicious Pakoras with some pickle and salad. The vendors serve in neat and nice manner. Tarka Pakora of Sarai Saleh is quite famous now, especially among the tourists heading towards Kaghan valley in the summer season. Resuming our drive, we reached Havelian and met with the other participants and the whole group started following the picturesque route through green mountains. All the necessary items were counted and checked and had some last moment provisions from a small village bazaar before SajjiKot. SajjiKot is the village of famous senior political leader, Baba Haider Zaman, who raises his voice for the rights of Hazara.

The kids and youth party were anxious to jump into the natural pool as it was not only a lovely place but they had an excellent opportunity the beat the scorching heat of summers. The place had pleasant weather as compared to high temperature in Islamabad; rather the water seemed initially cold when we entered in the pool. As usual in all programs of the Club, we had proper arrangement for safety and there were life jackets for all participants even for small kids. In addition, a floating air mattress and some other floating aids were interesting and helped enjoy playing games and to do some water activities. Some of the kids and elder participants were good swimmers, while other with life jackets started enjoying similarly. Some of the members were initially frightened to enter in water but soon they got confidence after some guidance and knowing that life jackets would protect them from drowning. The showering water falling from a height of around 50 feet was roaring and it was almost impossible to hear each other. Playing in water and swimming from shallow to deep water was superb while going under the showers of waterfall was extremely joyous and rewarding, which was not recommended for novice swimmers. Some of the members found a high point under the waterfall and started diving from this point with good height, which increased fun and other people there also started following our swimmers but some of them were without life jackets and swimming experience so they were told not to do any activity beyond safety. It was heard that there had been a couple of accidents so a local policeman was also there to check the activities and to restrict people without proper equipment. After a couple of hours in water, everyone was tired so we decided to have a break, as the Tarka Pakoras were already digested after tough activities in water. The party at camp had already arranged everything and they served various delicious items to be taken in a buffet style. Without any doubt, this was one of the loveliest Himalayan open buffets in front of one of the loveliest waterfalls in Pakistan. After having lunch, it was a lazy feeling lying on blue tarpaulins spread in front of the tent, while some nature lovers preferred to lie on grassy ground. After a relaxing time dozing in pleasant weather, someone announced that the tea is ready. It was such a nice announcement that all tea-addicted people got up and enjoyed hot and steaming tea, freshly made in camp. There were also mangoes put in cold water of stream to be served later while some sweet rice was already served with lunch as dessert.

After a few minutesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; drive, we reached the destination and saw the splendid cascading waterfall, which was just across the road and visible from the windows of our vehicles. It was a walk of hundred meters downhill to reach the water pond at the base of splendid waterfall, where we had to setup our camp. The youth and energetic party started shifting the heavy and large items;

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The break went longer than expectation however after about an hourâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rest all epic swimmers were ready to dive in water again. Since swimming and splashing water on each other is just a routine and common activity so Manzar and Mehfooz decided to do something different and unique. Manzar fixed the rope from the top of the waterfall and hanged the rope through the waterfall to the lower pool. Not only the other tourists but also the members of our own team were watching in surprise that what is going to happen

there. After making proper anchors to fix the rope atop, Manzar started descending down the rope, as he had a good experience of Rappelling at various places. The crowd was stunned and astonished as none was expecting the daring activity of such kind. Mehfooz followed and enjoying completely under the showers of waterfall, he came down almost dancing on the rope. At places, he locked the rope through his device and did stunts on ropes and amused the already amazed audience. The same activity they had performed in Baoli of Rohtas Fort, which was extremely appreciated by the people but abseiling through the thundering and fast dropping water was an experience beyond imagination. On reaching ashore, rather on the surface of water, the people started whistling, shouting, clapping and appreciating the daring activity performed by Manzar and Mehfooz. On watching this heroic activity, several people got anxious to experience Rappelling but as it was against safety measures to do such a challenging activity without prior experience, they were softly told to join the Club and start learning various activities. Abseiling through the waterfall was a unique and virgin experience and highlight of the day, so it was decided to end up the activities and to pack up the camp. The joyous team with wonderful action packed and got out of the water, changed swimming costumes as they were already informed to keep extra dry clothes with them. The ropes were dis-mantled and the equipment packed while the last round of fruit was due while packing the camp, so it was served on tarpaulin. Before travelling back, as in all Clubsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; outdoor program, the camp was cleaned, disposing off garbage properly, following the famous slogan,

Take nothing but photographs Leave nothing but footprints

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By: Saifuddin Ismailji

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school to high standard research programs in PhD and Masters degree in the fields of engineering, science and technology and institutions that offer foreign study syllabus through affiliation with overseas universities for professional studies in finance, economy and many more post graduation programs. The capital has some of the country’s best hospitals and hotels to offer hospitality to state heads and form businessmen to local travelers. Fifty years since its inception, the capital offers beautiful parks and public space to its residents and hosts a number of iconic monuments that adds to the history of Islamabad.

Shah Faisal Masjid The pride of the nation, the Shah Faisal Masjid was first initiated when the then (late) King Faisal Bin Abdul Aziz of Saudi Arab visited the newly formed capital in 1966. While taking a stroll with the official personnel along the ridge of Shakar Parian (Sweet Hills), the site of the masjid was pointed out towards the direction of the base of the Margalla Hills. The Saudi government granted a staggering 130 million Saudi Riyals for the cost of construction of the Masjid. A fusion of Turkish, Arabic and Pakistani architectural style, Turkish architect: Vedat Dalokay designed the masjid in a tent shape with four surrounding minarets that resemble giant pencils when seen at a distance. The construction was completed in 1986, spreading an area of 5,000 square meters, accommodating about 300,000 prayers. The interior of the masjid is beautifully adorned with mosaic work on the west wall, and has the ‘Kalima’ written in early Kufic script, which is repeated in mirror image pattern. Also, there is inspiring calligraphy work of Pakistan’s famed artist, Sadiqain and the great chandelier suspended in the center of the dome. Just a decade ago, while working late evenings on my schoolwork, I could hear the call of the jackal and in the morning, I am awaken by a pair of noisy parrots that would sit on the window of the room of my spacious apartment in Islamabad. Now, the call of the wild seem to have fade out along with the thinning of green belts that once characterised this capital city of Pakistan. Along the foothills of the Margalla and 14 kilometers Northeast of the thriving city of Rawalpindi - Islamabad is located in the northwest of the country on Potohar Plateau. Soon after the partition of the Indian Sub-Continent, a commission was set up in 1958 with a task of selection of a new capital of Pakistan, at a strategic location that would link remote areas and urban locale with an accent on tactical defense base, climatic condition with all the four seasons (summer, autumn, winter and spring) and scenic surroundings. A grid plan laid the foundation of the new capital in 1963, replacing Karachi as the former capital of Pakistan. The capital became into existence with a total area of 906.50 square kilometers, with eight basic zones: 1. 2. 3. 4.

Administrative offices of the Capital Development Authority. Diplomatic enclave allocated for foreign missions. Residential areas for house building. Educational sectors reserved for university complexes like the present Quaid-e-Azam University. 5. Industrial sectors. 6. Commercial areas allocated to each residence sector, among the first developed was the Super Market. 7. Rural areas including environmental areas and villages like Saidpur Village. 8. Green Areas that were dedicated to dense trees with an objective to keep the Capital environmental friendly.

The largest in the country, Faisal Masjid is located in the beautiful setting at the base of the Margalla Hills and at the end of Shahra-eIslamabad. To date, the lush environment surrounding the Masjid is intact and is best seen from the vantage point at Daaman-e-Koh Park.

The National Monument Among the many monuments in the capital city, the National Monument, inaugurated on 23 March 2007, is considered the newest of the national emblems that conceptualize the National flag and its provinces. Strategically located on Shakarparian hill, the structure (span 2.8 hectares) is visible from across the twin city – Islamabad and Rawalpindi, with an imposing view as seen on entering Islamabad at the zero point. Built at a staggering cost of Pak Rupees 580 million, the Monument appears like a blooming lotus flower with seven petals. Carved out of granite, the four larger petals represent the main four provinces (Sindh, Baluchistan, Punjab and Khyber Pakhtunkhwa “KPK”) and the three smaller petals are Northern districts (GilgitBaltistan, Azad Kashmir and Federally Administered Tribal Areas “FATA”). However from mid air, the center of the monuments is in the shape of the star and the circle of seven petals appearing as the crescent, thus representing the star and crescent on the national flag.

Today, Islamabad offers the best of higher education including the learning center for modern languages and from international

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Prime Minister Secretariat The Prime Ministerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Secretariat stands majestically along the Constitution Avenue with a backdrop of the Margalla Hills. Constructed at a total cost of one billion rupees. The construction of the building, spread over an area of 40,000 square meter was commenced during the regime of late Benazir Bhutto back in 1993. Later, on the occasion of the 50th anniversary of Pakistan, this extravagant building was handed over to Prime Minister Nawaz Sharif on 14 August 1997.

The Shrine of Bari Imam The revered monument is dedicated to the local saint, Shah Abdul Latif Kazmi â&#x20AC;&#x201C; known as Bari Imam (leader of the earth), who belonged to Baghan village (now Aabpara, Islamabad) in the greater Potohar region. Located at the base of the Margalla hills, thousands of devotees gather the shrine each year on the anniversary of the learned Saint. He traveled far places to Badaksha, Baghdad, Bukhara, Damascus, Mashaad, Kashmir and Ghaur Gashti (now called Attock along the Indus River), seeking spiritual knowledge and education in Hadith, mathematics, and medicine. His Sufi Mentor gave him

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the title of Bari Imam and he converted thousands of Hindus into Muslims through the teachings of Islam at Nurpur Shahan. According to historians, the last of the Mughal Emperor, Aurangzeb Alamgir had visited Nurpur Shahan to pay homage to Bari Imam and ordered to construct the original silver-mirrored shrine.

The Islamabad Marriott Hotel The modern fortified landmark of hospitality, the Islamabad Marriott is located in the quieter location near the diplomatic enclave and government secretariat and has most of its rooms facing the scenic Margalla hills. This monument of hospitality is the safe abode in ultimate comfort for head of the states, weary travelers and businessmen on a tight schedule in the capital city. The hotel hosts the guests into a culinary journey around the world at the award winning dining outlets: Signature Mughlai cuisines at Dumpukht; All Day Dining at the Nadia Coffee Shop; juicy steaks at Jason Steak House, a taste of China at the Dynasty, the best of Thai at the Royal Elephant and Japanese raw pleasures at Sakura.

AJRAK

SOCIAL IDENTITY OF SINDH By: Saadiah Humaiyun

Ajrak, a symbol of the Sindhi culture and traditions, has been used to describe a block printed shawl. These shawls are made using motifs from block printing stamps; blue, red and black are the most commonly used colours. Natural dyes (vegetable and mineral dyes) are used for its crafting. The invention of this beautiful piece of art dates back to the earliest civilization, Mohenjo-daro (2500 BC-1500 BC). A bust of the priest king excavated at Mohenjo-daro shows him draped over one shoulder in a piece of cloth that resembles the pattern of ajrak.

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The damp cloth is then dried under the sun; after which it is soaked in oil that is treated with Carbonate of soda solution. The next step is soaking of the fabric in sakun, a solution consisting of Tamarisk, dried lemons, molasses, caster oil and water. The master dyer usually called Usto, dyes the cloth first with indigo. Gum and Lime is mixed with Alizarine for Kiryana (printing of the white outlines). Craftsmen wash the ajraks in water till the gum and excess dye washes off and the white areas become clear.

The trefoil pattern, interspersed with small circles, the interiors of which are coloured with a red pigment. The motif is transferred onto the cloth by the geometric shapes etched on the wooden blocks that are pressed against the fabric. The designs are so intricate and the work so tedious that it takes five carvers approximately three days to carve a design in a block of teak. Nearly thirty blocks are used to complete a design. Each colour requires a separate block. One shawl would take twenty people, each doing a separate task and up to eight hours! Ajrak makers consider the process a form of life, not their duty. Processes are named as: • Do Rangi Ajrak • Teli Ajrak • Sabuni Ajrak • Kori Ajrak The material used is normally Latha, its torn into sheets (forty pieces of five meter) and washed. This damp cloth is dipped in Bicarbonate and steamed. The steam helps in opening up the pores of the cloth thus removing out the impurities. This process is called Khumbh.

Gum, Ferrous Sulphate, Fullers earth and water are used for the printing of the black areas. The fabric initially printed with kut and kiryana are reprinted with the kiryana mixture, this ensures that cloth once dipped in dye; the areas remain either white or black making them colour resistant. Following is printing over the red areas, which is done using Ata (wheat flour), Phitkari (alum), Gurrh (Molasses) and Saunf (fennel). These red ajraks are spread out under the sun; water is sprinkled on the cloth. The alternate drying and drenching of the cloth bleaches the white areas and deepens the other colours. While these red areas are still wet, they are sprinkled with; sifted, dried, cow dung, called meena. This act protects the indigo dye to be printed later. The mud-encrusted cloth is lowered in the indigo vat for the second time. Time for the final wash! The ajrak is washed with Soda, water and bleaching powder to give sparkle to the colours. Viola! Ajrak’s ready! Where this shawl is an important part of the Sindhi culture, it has been used on festive occasions; men used it as turbans, or wind it around their shoulders. Women on the other hand used it as a duppatta. Its usage was once held in high esteem, they were often used as gifts, giving utmost respect to the guests.

Unfortunately, we now see a decline of this ancient laborious craft. The youth is now keener towards less labor-intensive and more lucrative work. Either they are using procedures involving removal of some of the tedious steps, or looking for alternatives like silk-screening. I just hope together we can protect and help preserve this beautiful process and the ancient craft.

The next stage, called the Saaj, involves soaking of the fabric in the mixture of camel dung, seed oil and water. This alkaline mixture acts like a bleaching agent and further softens the cloth.

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By: Saifuddin Ismailji In a recent Orientation and Consultative Workshop on Trade Initiatives from Human Development Perspective in Sindh Agriculture, agriculture is regarded the backbone of the national economy. Thriving agriculture is dependent on policies focused on education, training and progress of agrobased community and the implementation of human factor development, lending support and incentive to the farmers, with an objective of achieving an inclusive growth process to yield bumper crop each year. Agriculture, popularly called â&#x20AC;&#x153;farming or husbandry, is cultivation of animals, plants, fungi, and other life form for food, fiber, bio-fuel, drugs and other products used to sustain and enhance human life.â&#x20AC;?

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While farming of plants and trees dependent on soil quality, which normally require an extensive irrigation system and use of fertilizers and pesticide; livestock and bird farming require a combination of grasslands based on “landless systems” or shed and climatic condition.

Soon after the mid 19thcentury, tomatoes were the most widely cultivated crops in the world. The French and British during their earlier voyages to Tahiti were exposed to lavish food supplies provided by a hierarchy of native chiefs and nobles, which later developed into an obsession for dining in style.

Although large-scale monoculture has evolved as modern farming, sustainable agriculture including permaculture and organic agriculture is practiced globally; Genetically Modified Organism is an increasing form of agriculture in developed countries. This development in modern agriculture is backed by more than 12,000 years of evolution since the Neolithic Revolution during the Sumerian civilization, which ended the prehistoric Neolithicc period of the hunter-gatherer.

Pakistan is blessed with rich soil and the right climatic conditions to promote agriculture growth, naturally. According to the Agriculture Statistics of Pakistan (2008 -09), out of the total 3,864,166 farms over an area of 11,261,963 hectares, the Government owned 96 farms (26,802 hectares) and the private sector owned 3,864,070 farms (11,235,161 hectares). With about half of the total labor force in the country employed in agriculture, the Industry is the back bone of Pakistan’s economy accounting for 21% of the Gross Domestic Product (GDP) and along with agro-based products the economy raises 80% of the country’s total export earnings.

The foundation of modern farming is associated with the culture of farming in the fertile land along the Indus River and its tributaries, back in time about 6,000 BC. The ancient Indus Valley Civilization flourished in the central Sub-Continent and prospered in agricultural trade. The farmers invented irrigation channels, built earth walls and canals to save the crop from river floods. They also developed tools like plough to prepare the land for better cultivation. Farmers grew bananas, barely, beans, black pepper, cotton, mustard, rice, sesame, wheat and other grain produce. According to historians, the Indus people barter trade agricultural goods with countries that dotted the ancient civilization belt, which stretched from the Indus delta to Mesopotamia via Persia, Iraq and Turkey (Jarmo). Some of the traders transported food produce on the canoes, farther-afield on the route through the ancient civilization belt and from Melanesia to Polynesia and other Pacific islands. Farming changed the natural ecology of the Indus basin beyond all recognition and agriculture became a way of adjusting to changed circumstances. Food production through agriculture had spread many corners of the world by 3,000 BC. The American Indians adopted food production after 1000 BC. Communication through sea trade on canoes revolutionized exchange between the different agriculture zones. Traders from the East Indies first introduced spices to Europe. This new addition added a punch to the local culinary traditions, stimulating a passion for contrasting flavors. The Sub-continent and other Indian Ocean countries along the coast of East Africa, like Zanzibar, introduced to gourmands, the culinary pleasures of spice up food.

Punjab contributes a large share in the agricultural economy with about 83% of cotton, 80% of wheat, 97% fine aromatic rice, 63% of sugarcane and 51% of maize. Of the total fruit production in the country, 66% high export-quality mango, more than 95% of citrus fruits, 82% guava and 34% dates grown in Punjab on about 57% of the total cultivated and 69% of the total cropped area. Pakistan’s agriculture is classified into food crops and non-food (cash) crops. On a broad spectrum, food crops include wheat, rice, maize, being the top three and also coarse grains and pulses. The cash crops are sugarcane, cotton, mustard, sesame and tobacco.

FOOD CROPS Roti (also called chapatti or flat bread) is the staple diet for Pakistan’s population of 180 million and therefore, wheat germ is the principal food crop in the country’s agriculture, with a share of 3% in the national GDP. Wheat is produced over an area of 8,494 thousand hectares and the output was recorded at 23.52 million tons, contributing 14.4% to value added in agriculture (2006-07). Better incentives to farmers, improved agronomic practices, increased water availability, improved water use efficiency, use of good quality fertilizer, use of latest machinery and better storage facilities has over the years led to increase in wheat production and introduced new wheat verities. And since the awareness and campaigning of Green Revolution the

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wheat production has increased from 4 million tons in 1960 to 23.5 million tons (2006-07). Pakistan has become self sufficient in wheat and the surplus is exported to other countries. Wheat production can be further improved through the government initiatives, checks and controls through imposing strict vigilance over smuggling of wheat. Other factors that can be taken into consideration is to encourage timely sowing of wheat, offer incentives or make provision of quality supply of fertilizer, pesticides and facilitate timely credit to small farmers. Rice comes after the Roti as the national staple diet - the second largest food crop in the country amounts to 6.1% of total export earnings since the past five years, generating 1.2% to the GDP. Pakistan enjoys a priority in the international market with produce of ‘’Basmati’’ - finest quality of rice in the whole world, however, as a rice exporting country, Pakistan rank 5th after Thailand, Vietnam, USA and India. The production of rice was recorded 5,438 thousand tones (2006-07). With effective agriculture policies, research and development programs, rice produce is expected to see an increase in high yielding basmati and Iris varieties. Maize is at number three on the country’s agriculture chart ranking order and an important food grain used for edible oil production. It is also used to produce starch and poultry food mixes. Grown over an area of 1,026 thousand hectares, maize growth has doubled 2,968 thousand tones (200607) since the partition of the Sub-continent in 1947. More than 50% of the crop is grown in NWFP and the remainder on the plains of Punjab.

CASH CROPS Cotton, sugar cane, rape and mustard seeds are the main cash crops of the country. Cotton contributes 1.8% to the GDP and brings a large amount in foreign exchange earnings for the country. The crop offers a lucrative return to the farmers, a result of the proper implementation of government policies giving out subsidy on fertilizer, offering expertise in use of modern communication technology and making on spot availability of agricultural credit to the farmers. Sugarcane crop is a major raw material for production of raw cane sugar and white sugar and boasts a value added share 3.5% in the agriculture, contributing 0.7% to the GDP (2006-07). Sugarcane was cultivated on an area of 1,029 thousand hectors (2006-07). The bumper crop was the result of “sugar cane plantation over a large area, timely rains, easy availability of fertilizer and pesticides and attractive prices of sugarcane offered by the millers”. The main crops grown for oil are; rape and mustard seeds sunflowers, safflower soybeans is to meet demand for the total requirement of edible oil that stood at 1.9 million tones. According to the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations and the FAOSTAT, Pakistan is one of the world’s largest producers of crops in the following ranking order: Chick Peas (2nd), cotton and mango (4th), sugar cane, date palm and milk (5th), apricot and mandarin oranges (6th), wheat and onion (7th) and rice ranks at 14th on the top world rice producing countries.

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Historians claim that sugar cane cultivation as cash crop was originated in the Indian Sub-continent since 1000 years BC. This type of long grass (perennial) is usually grown in tropical region, however ample water, the right temperature and favorable soil condition promote growth in the sub-tropical regions. While the juice of sugar cane is used as a sweetener, the left over stalk fiber (bagasse) is put into use in the paper industry, fuel and livestock feed. Some of the main factors that rely on improving the food situation are use of better seeds fertilizers, multiple cropping system, replacing old methods with the modern equipments and machinery, simplify process in providing credit facility, offer Price Incentives to farmers, training and education on eradication of crop diseases, insects and pests construction of irrigation and water availability. Under the Agriculture Produce Markets Act. 1939: “the Market committees were established to safeguard the interest of farmers. These committees and council are responsible to encourage cultivation of crop. Recently, Punjab Seed council approved 39 new varieties of different crops for general cultivation including 15 Bt Cotton, 6 Rice, 2 Wheat, 1 Sugar-cane 2 gram, 3 Citrus, 4 peach, 3 flower and 1 variety of each potato, tomato and turnip. Agriculture in Pakistan still lacks the modern agricultural methods implemented by developed nations like the USA and the other world export leader in agriculture. However, agriculture has grown at an average rate of 4.54% per annum since 1991 till to date with a steady rise. The growth in the agriculture sector faces great challenges: lack of expertise, weather conditions, pests’ attacks on crops, adulterated pesticides, water shortages, lack of government to offer immediate solutions to farmers, problems of credit facility, expensive utility bills and poor quality of seeds – to name some. At a recent forum on domestic and international agriculture (November 2013), under the auspices of Canadian high Commission, experts and delegates discussed future directives towards achieving the goals to increase agriculture through an interactive role-play on looking at domestic and international agriculture. They encouraged the Pakistan Agricultural Council (PAC) “to provide ideas and support to the provincial and federal governments of Pakistan in the development of policies and reforms in the agriculture sector to help create a more competitive, efficient and sustainable agriculture sector in Pakistan”. United Nations and other international organizations involved in assisting Pakistan’s agriculture development have been able to focus on specific long-term objectives and have also identified some areas for support. Today, we indulge into a cherishing lifestyle with a highly-flavored scenario on stimulated dining and drinking, but we seldom contemplate the time honored farming culture and the process involved – from the field and farm to the local community for cleaning and packaging the harvested crop and transporting it to the market, which is then bought for preparation until the final stage when a palatable dish is personated before us to delight into the pleasures of gastronomy.

MASJID Badshahi Mosque Lahore is the 5th largest mosque in the world, built by the sixth Emperor Aurangzeb. The construction of mosque commenced in 1671 and completed in 1673. This mosque is an honor and a cause of attraction to the Muslims as well as tourists visiting Lahore.

By: Ansar Ahmad Photography: Bilal Safdar

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More than 50,000 worshipers can easily perform their prayer in the main prayer hall and more than 90,000 persons in the courtyard and porticoes at a time. Till the completion of the Faisal Mosque situated in Islamabad, the Badshahi Mosque remained the largest mosque in the world for 313 years. There are four minarets which are about 4.2 meters acceded in height with Taj Mahal, The main platform of the Taj Mahal can fit inside the courtyard of the Badshahi Mosque which is about 278, 784 sq ft, or 25,899 sq.m. CONSTRUCTION OF BADSHAHI MOSQUE The mosque was built just opposite the Lahore Fort. It was constructed on a raised platform to avoid inundation from the nearby River Ravi in the flooding season. The compact clay and burnt bricks, the clad with red-sandstone tiles used during construction were brought from a quarry near Jaipur in Rajistan, while the white marble were used for white clad in the domes. In May 1671 Emperor Aurangzeb had appointed Governor of Lahore to his foster brother Muzaffar Hussain, to supervise the construction works of Badshahi Mosque which post was continued until 1675. During construction of Mosque, it had been decided to build a new gate in conjunction with the building of the Badshahi Mosque at Lahore Fort, opening into the Huzuri Bagh, which was facing the entrance of Badshahi Mosque called Alamgiri Gate after the death of Aurangzeb.

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The following Persian words inscribed on marble tablet are: “THE MOSQUE OF ABUL MUZAFFAR MUHY-UD-DIN MUHAMMAD AURANGZEB ALAMGIR, THE VICTORIOUS KING, CONSTRUCTED AND COMPLETED UNDER THE SUPERINTENDENCE OF THE HUMBLEST SERVANT OF THE ROYAL HOUSEHOLD FIDAI KHAN KOKAIN 1084, A.H.” MOSQUE UNDER SIKH RULE (1799–1849) Sikh Militia chief Ranjeet Singh took his control on Lahore, the vast courtyard was converted in to horse yard, and the Mosque was severely deteriorated. Hujras, the small 80 study rooms surrounding the courtyard were used for their soldiers and the magazines for the military stores. Huzuri bagh was used as official audience royal court, just next to the Mosque, while the connecting tunnel fort to Badshahi Mosque was used as a temporary store of gunpowder.

During the civil war in1841, Sher Singh the son of Ranjeet Singh used the large minarets of the Badshahi Mosque for the placement of light guns (Zamburahs) to bombard the supporters of Sikh Maharani Chand Kaur taking refuge in the besieged Lahore Fort, fort itself was severely damaged, the Dewan-e-Aam (Public Audience Hall) was completely destroyed. When British occupied Lahore in 1846, they continued the use of Mosque and the adjoining fort as military garrison. The cells (hujrahs) built in to the boundary walls, surrounding the Mosque’s courtyard, on three sides originally study rooms used by troops and military stores under the Sikh. British demolished them to rebuilt open arcade or Dalans, to prevent them for anti activities, which continue till date. THE MOSQUE HANDED OVER TO THE MUSLIM After protest by the Muslims, against the use of Mosque as military garrison. British realized and constituted a setup, an authority for the Badshahi Mosque in 1852 to overseas restoration and return of the Mosque to the Muslims as a place of religious worship. The restoration piecemeal repairing works started under the supervision of the Badshahi Mosque Authority in 1852. The extensive conservation works carried out in 1939 onwards. The chief Architect of Hyderabad Deccan, Nawab Zain Yar Jang had prepared the blue prints, when the premier Sir Sikandar Hayat Khan started the fund raising campaign for restoration and conservation works of the Badshahi Mosque. The restoration and Conservation works of Badshahi Mosque had been completed and restored in its original condition in 1960 at a cost of 5 millions rupees. MUSEUM OF RELICS OF PROPHET MUHAMMAD (SAW) Inside the main gateway entrance of the Mosque, Government of Pakistan established a Museum of Relics of Prophet Muhammad (SAW), His cousin Ali and Daughter Fatimah Tuz Zahra, donated by the Faqeer family of Lahore. ART AND ARCHITECTURE The design of Badshahi Mosque resembles that of the smaller Jama Mosque in Dehli India, which was built by Aurangzeb’s father Emperor Shah Jahan in 1648. The Main prayer Hall is divided into seven partitions by means of multi foils Arches supported by heavy pillars, consisting of three of which double domes finished extremely in white marble. The interior of the main prayer Hall and its floor are decorated with stucco tracery, fresco work and Pietra-dura work. The exterior is embellished with stone and marble inlay on red stone, especially of loti form motifs in bold relief.

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THEY CAME AND STAYED STORIES FROM THE INTERNATIONAL PAKISTAN By: Atle Hetland Pakistan is a net exporter of foreign human capital. Foreign workers go to the Middle East, South East Asia, Europe, Australia, and the US. Immigrants go to settle in the West. Most of the several millions leaving home to seek green pastures, or just a modest income as a foreign worker, often in manual jobs, but also as doctors, nurses, engineers and other professions. They earn money to send home, and they give Pakistan a good name abroad. Their remittances help keep the foreign exchange up if not quite in balance. Most foreign workers are men, but there are some women, too.

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“My wife has been working as a nurse at King Faisal Hospital, Al Taif in Saudi Arabia for nine years now, earning a reasonably good salary so that our three daughters in their twenties can complete their education. The eldest one, Nida, is doing MBBS; she is in China, and the next one, Roma, is in South Korea for further training after completion of her BBA Honours. The youngest, Sarah, is studying dentistry in Islamabad.” “They are clever and hardworking young women and I am very proud of them”, says their father Samuel Masih, who hails from Sialkot in Punjab, where he grew up in a Christian family. He is now the Deputy Postmaster at the Post Mall, the largest post office in Islamabad. “I have a good job, but since it is a government job, it is not all that well paid. Without my wife’s income, we would not have been able to give our daughters the good start in life they now get. My wife wants to work abroad for another four or five years”, says Samuel Masih. “My daughters and I only see her when she comes home once a year for her five-week annual leave. I think the sacrifice is higher for my wife than for me”, he adds. “When I see foreigners in Pakistan, and I see many at the post office, I often wonder what kind of life they live, too. If they have had to leave old parents or young children at home; if they are here because they need to save up some money and pay for expenses they otherwise could not afford; and maybe, too, if they have come because they like Pakistan, and perhaps have a wife or husband who is Pakistani”, Samuel Masih says. But then, there are not only Pakistanis traveling to work and live abroad. There are tens of thousands of foreigners who have moved to live in Pakistan for good. And there are foreign experts, researchers and explorers who have come to love the people and country of Pakistan. Professor Emeritus Fredrik Barth is a world-famous Norwegian Anthropologist, now in his 80s, who in the 1950s, 60s and 70s carried out scientific fieldwork and wrote books about the Swat Pathans in what was then termed the Princely State of Swat during the time of the British Indian Empire till 1947. His book entitled The Last Wali of Swat, is a fascinating historical account of the Swat Valley as told to the anthropologist by the last leader, wali, before Swat became an integral part of Pakistan in 1969. In several fields, such as in education, health and communication, Swat was ahead of many other parts of Pakistan. Today, Swat is seen as backward, but that wasn’t always the case, and even today, it doesn’t pertain to all areas and groups of people. “Malala Yusafzai, the famous education activist, is a unique young woman, but she is also just one among many unique women and Salzburg, Austria

ITH AUSTRIA W IN IQUI FROM D HELGA SIDD SBAND IN ISLAMABAS. HER LATE HURE YOUTHFUL YEAR THEIR MO

men in Swat and the rest of the country”, says Gulzar Wazir, leader of Friends of the MIND, an NGO for people with substance abuse and mental challenges in Peshawar. “My sister Maryam Bibi has practiced what Malala says for decades, notably building schools for girls and boys, and assisting women who need help because of domestic abuse. The NGO she is heading, called Khwendo Khoor (sisters’ house, in Pashto) has impressive results to show. “Pakistan as a whole has gone through changes over its sixty-five years history as an independent state. It was liberal and ‘modern’ when the British left in 1947, but mainly for the upper classes. There were mixed schools, social interaction between the sexes. In the big cities, some of these things are beginning to come back now. But even if young people dress conservatively and go to single-sex schools, they are often independent-minded and modern. Internet, email and social media makes everyone part of the globalized world”, says Gulzar Wazir. “I came to Pakistan in 1958”, says Helga Siddiqui from Salzburg in Austria. It is the hometown of one of the world’s greatest composers, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. Every summer, the Salzburg Music Festival, Salzburger Festspiele, is held in the beautiful old city.” “In Summer, Salzburg looks a bit like the tourist town of Murrree in Pakistan, where people go to cool off in the hill station, as the Brits called it. The streets and pavements are totally packed with cars and people – in Murree and in Salzburg.” “It is Pakistan that is my land now. My late husband, who passed away six years ago, was born in Delhi but decided to settle in Pakistan after he had completed his engineering studies in America and his parents at home had already passed away.” “When we first met, yes, just on the roadside in Salzburg, I had not seen many foreigners before, and I had never spoken to a Pakistani”, Helga says. “My husband to be was attending a conference in Europe, and after that he attended a study tour in Austria. Two and half years thereafter we married, and our wedding was held in Pakistan”, Helga says. “We settled in Pakistan, first in Karachi for a year and then in Islamabad, or more specifically Satellite Town, which is part of Rawalpindi. The new capital was mostly made up of fields, farmland and bushes that time. Now, it has developed into a large and busy city of more than one and a half million inhabitants, and it is still growing.” “Our two daughters grew up in Pakistan and were educated here; OUR HERITAGE

one holds a Master’s degree in English literature and the other one has a Master’s in anthropology. They are both married to Pakistanis who have good posts in the private sector. And by now, I have six grandchildren, three boys and three girls. They are already young adults”, says Helga, adding that she is getting on in life. But if one could look as good and be healthy as Helga, to grow old would not be all that difficult.

Brisbane, Australia

“Our thoughts count, and we should be active and have time for each other”, Helga underlines. “In Pakistan, I feel that the pace is still slower than in Europe. People drop in without prior appointments. They visit family members when they go to hospital or need help for something. Sometimes, we may even overdo it. But when I go back to Austria, even my sister doesn’t really have time to sit down and talk, and we have always been very close. So, I wonder, what is it that people are so busy doing?” “After over fifty years in Pakistan, I have changed”, Helga says. “Yes, Pakistan has changed, too, and I have grown into the culture and family life here.” She adds that she still lives an independent life, and maybe the fact that her husband didn’t have any relatives in Pakistan, was positive since there wasn’t much interference from anyone. “Today, with our children’s families and in-laws, we have a large family. And they all make my life. And, yes, I do speak Urdu”, she adds. “I am a woman of a certain age now. But I don’t feel old. I don’t go abroad for any medical treatment. Besides, I prefer the doctors and hospitals in Pakistan”, Helga Siddiqui says. “I agree with Helga. Pakistan has so many positive things that we should appreciate”, says Jocelyn Ortt-Saeed, who hails from Brisbane in Australian, but she has lived in Pakistan with her Pakistani-born husband since 1959, and has raised six children. “Our son Ishaq died from leukemia when he was only twelve, but he will always remain with us”, Jocelyn says. “I have written many poems about him and the other five children.” Jocelyn is an accomplished author of seven poetry books, the largest one entitled Distant Horizons, published by Stillpoint Books, Lahore, with support from the German Heinrich Boll Foundation, since part of Jocelyn’s heritage is German. In spring this year, her CD with poetry readings will be released, prepared by the poetry and literature group of the Pakistan-Norway Association (PANA) in Islamabad.

different places, but sometimes also quite lonely. My poetry was a stimulating rescue”, says the poet and teacher, and she mentions that poems should be read aloud. “We read aloud for children. We should also do it for each other and for ourselves”, she adds. “I like to visit Australia, but it is strenuous to travel now when I am in my late seventies, and for my husband, who is a few years older and has developed a chronic illness, it is almost impossible.” “I am Australian, and all our children have had part of their higher education there, and my husband, too. That’s how we met; we were studying at the same university. The children have lived in Australia for many years even after their university graduation. Yet, all but one has come back to settle in Pakistan. And now, one of my granddaughters has begun her studies in my hometown. I appreciate that”, Jocelyn adds. “Yet, my home is Pakistan now – like it is for Helga Siddique”, Jocelyn Ortt-Saeed says. “I still have poems to write here. I have children and grandchildren to care for in Pakistan. And I also hope I can do more work as a poet and teacher for young writers. I am still invited to poetry readings and discussion seminars of literary.” “Yes, I am an Australian-Pakistani – and a universal soul, too, writing about issues that see no boarders. I belong to the International Pakistan now.”

“I have lived in many places since my husband was a director at sugar mills, often in quite remote locations in the country. I also loved the desert with its peace and tranquility. It was a privilege to live in Of earth, heaven and light I sing and the first dream returning – old chaos and the silent word now within me moving. Of water running in the garden at dawn and the last star still shining while cocks crow and dogs bark and the call to prayer is heard. The trees come alive with twittering birds, the bus goes by rumbling, and in the fields the farmer plods behind the plough and the oxen. There are insects around which I only feel and old men in the distance walking through the cane-fields to the mill, while the young double on cycles. Far off I glimpse a flight of birds, like ink-blots on a parchment, and women from the village huts with water-pots and children.

POET JOCELYN ORTT-SAEED CAME FROM AUSTRALIA TO LIVE IN PAKISTAN IN 1959.

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This all reminds me of time – before time began – when what we are and still might be was breathed deep into man.

A MUGHAL PERIOD MOSQUE IN MULTAN By: Dr. Shaukat Mehmood Al-Mas’udi (Abu’l Hasan Ali al-Mas’udi), Arab historian and traveler known as the Herodotus of the Arabs, visited this city in 915. In his work The Meadows of Gold and Mines of Gems, (completed 942), he writes of Multan: “It is a stalwart and one of the most puissant frontier places of Musalmans. In its purlieus there are a hundred and twenty thousand towns and villages.” Both Istakhri and Ibn Hauqal speak of Multan as a large, embattled, and invulnerable city, about half the size of Mansura, the ancient capital of Muslim Sindh. The celebrated Arab geographer Abu Rihan makes the ensuing citation of Multan al-Biruni. According to him, “The city of Mulasthana was taken by Mahmud Ghazn in 1005 when he routed the Qaramatians. In 1193 the city was vanquished by Shihab al-Din Muhammed Ghauri.” When Shihab al-Din died in 1205, Qabacha was governor of Multan. In 1217 he lost it to Shams al-Din Iltutmish. After Iltutmish, Multan was seized by the Langahs who remained in authority till the beginning of the sixteenth century.

There are a number and variety of mosques in Multan. Most of these mosques are tomb-mosques. Two such mosques are known as ‘Sawi’ or green mosques. The larger sawi mosque is comparatively recent, while the smaller one is old and belongs to Akbar’s period. The older, Lilliputian mosque is not very well known and most people who live around it call it a maqbarah (tomb) rather than a mosque. It is situated in an extremely populated area.

In 1526, the city was taken by Shah Husain (Hasan?) Arghun, a protégé of Babur. On Babur’s death, his son Humayun had to relinquish Mutan to his brother Mirza Kamran. During Humayun’s ostracism, Sher Shah Suri attacked Multan and gained control of it. Sher Shah Suri was an august magnifico and with his command over great mercantile cities like Peshawar and Lahore, he developed trade with the countries of central Asia and northern China. He connected Multan with Lahore by road and planted orchards on the way to refresh tired travelers.

Multan is situated about 198 miles (312 kilometers) southeast of Lahore. The city is built on a mound just east of the Chenab River, which once flowed very close to it. Multan was formerly called Kashtpur, Hanspur, Bagpur, Sanb (or Sanbpur) and finally Mulasthan. It gets its name from the graven image of the sun-god temple, an opulent shrine of the pre-Muslim period. Muslim forces during the reign of the first caliph Abu Bakr in 664, with Muhallab the Arab general, penetrated the ancient capital of Malli. No endeavor was made, however, to subjugate the Indian territory permanently and merge it with the Muslim empire. It fell finally to the Muslims in 712; for three centuries it remained the outpost of Islam in India. In the tenth century it became a centre of the Qaramatian heretics. Abu’l Qasim, the earliest known Arab geographer, better known as Ibn Khurdadbih, characterizes the city of Multan by the name of Farj, found colossal aggregates of gold in the city, which was henceforth dubbed by the Arabs as the ‘House of Gold’.

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Multan was captured by Akbar during his reign and remained with the Mughals till 1738. It had its most prosperous period during the reign of Aurangzeb. In 1738-39, Nadir Shah ransacked the city. Ranjit Singh invaded it, in 1818. This was a bad phase. Despite the fact that the whole of the indo-Pakistan Subcontinent remained architecturally under the sway and authority of Delhi, two cities of the Punjab; Lahore and Multan, developed their own styles. The most conspicuous reason for this autonomous development was that it was by virtue of these two cities that Islam penetrated the Subcontinent. Of these Multan was the premier town to come under the influence of Islam through the punitive, the early eighth century. Afterwards, southern Iran to which it had ready access by sea as well as by land. Much of its architectural constitution was therefore sculpted by Iran rather than India. Multan’s architectural tiles and minor arts still testify to these historic contracts. The architecture of the Punjab used mainly brick. In the absence of fine stone, which was not readily available, brickwork of phenomenal characteristics was produced in Multan, which after Iran, remain second to none. Nowhere else in Pakistan does woodwork have a role in architecture equal to that in Multan and its environs. Doorways, windows, oriel and bay, overhanging balconies, all lavishly carved, were also executed in wood. In addition parts of the buildings were decorated with painted plaster or stucco with a paneling of glazed encaustic chromatic tiles in brilliant purple, deep blue and turquoise on a white ground.

The Sawi masjid is not exclusively a mosque but a tomb mosque like many others in the city of Multan. It has a conspicuous mihrab but then immediately in front of it there are a couple of graves leaving room only for a single row of people to offer salah. The court of the mosque is very small measuring 4.10 x 4.80 meters, containing several graves of varying dimensions spread at sporadic intervals.

The mausoleums in Multan are not of emperors or kings but of saintly personages. Similarly its mosques owe little to the generosity, devotion or devoutness of the rulers. The construction of these monuments is from the middle of the twelfth century to the advent of the fourteenth century. These monuments have suffered badly at the hands of the Auqaf wizards. Though their original character has been assassinated and they have become ersatz, nevertheless, in certain aspects they have managed to retain their pristine traits.

Though its façade, particularly the door jambs and steps have been influenced to some degree by Hindu influence, the possibility of Tughlaq influence cannot be ruled out either. Tapering corner minarets, turrets, bastions and buttresses were typical of Taghlaq vogue. History does not suggest any exact date of this mosque but keeping its various aspects in perspective, it seems to have been built in the Akbar’s period between 1555-65.

The locality where the old Sawi mosque is situated is recognized as Muhallah or Kotla Taulay Khan. Multan, it may be mentioned here, has the distinction of being the birthplace of several eminent dignitaries in history. It is believed that one of the Tughlaq rulers was born here.

Muhallah Taulay Khan extends and reaches north-west of the mausoleum of Shah Rukn al-Din Alam. It is in this area that the mosque in question is located. The Sawi mosque is built on a dual platform, each nearly one meter high and approached by an ‘L’ shaped diminutive flight of steps, the upper steps having sloping jambs towards the end, showing some Hindu influence. The walls on the north and south have rectangular panels incorporating blind arches. Each of these panels has a saw tooth molding as the architrave, while the arches are provided with a painted pattern of grille work within the arches. Above these panels, at the top of the wall are blind merlons and embrasures externally alone. Directly opposite the entrance is the mihrab enclosed within a rectangular fame. Its flanking sidewalls are horizontally segregated into two longish superfluous panels. Each contains indented rectangular panels which in turn have recessed blind and blunt arches dealt with in the same manner as the exterior. The wall at the top is crenellated. At the end of these walls are circular tapering bastions or round buttresses, each crowned with a domical termination but void of any kiosk or pinnacle or burj. 53

The mosque is built with petite archetypal Mughal bricks, which now stand exposed sporadically except on the wall with the mihrab. Since the mosque is Lilliputian in dimensions but considerably elevated on two platforms, it has a predominant accent on verticality. The ornamentation is done, for the most part, in tiles and brickwork. Arches and round buttresses are particularly noteworthy for grilles, diapers, geometric patterns and floral motifs. Original tile work survives on the round buttresses, in friezes and patches on the surfaces of certain graves.

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As noted above there are several graves in the sahn of the mosque but one in front of the mihrab and almost in the middle of the sahn is particularly distinctive. It has a large marble katabah or tombstone carrying the epitaph. The slab is fixed on the head side and bears a long inscription in nastaliq style on both sides in Persian verse. The inscription tells us of one Safar Quli who died on the tenth of Sha’ban 999 hijra. Surprisingly, on the back of this slab the name of the month is not given, instead it says shahoor i.e. months and the date given in wourds is tis’a o alif i.e. 1009 Hijra while in numerical it remains 999. Probably Safar Quli died in the year 999 and someone by the name of Zakariyya bin Ustad Muhammed, son of Jeevan composed the verses and installed the slab in 1009 A.H. the name of the poet appears in the last couplet. One Hamiyyat Allah of Balharre claims the credit for the verses on the front of the katabah. His name also appears in the last of the couplets. I have not been able to identify any town by this name. The geographical location of Balharre remains an unsolved perplexity. There are many other inscriptions in and outside the mosque mostly in white letters on azure ceramic tiles. Nearly all of them are severely impaired and mutilated. In most cases their rearrangement while repairing by the local people has led to further damage. It is almost impossible to decipher them albeit most of these fragments are original. In spite of being very small the mosque is worth visiting as it combines Saljuq and Mughal architectural features in a very intriguing manner.

By: Humaira A. Hirose

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Despite all the hurdles, Pakistan is a country that has made a lot of progress in the development sector over the years. We have seen governments come and go but the level of commitment to provide basic civic amenities and social services to the poorest of the poor has by and large not been affected by political turmoil. The amalgamation of the private with the public sector to tackle poverty is ongoing and efforts made are impressive to say the least. A burgeoning population of 180 million people need not be a growing menace if only all resources including but not limited to land, labour and capital are utilized effectively. Having been associated with the development sector in Pakistan, I can safely say that there are many individuals both local and foreign who are taking the initiative to fill the social and economic void that the country has experienced. There are countless examples of not for profit ventures that are making a laudable difference in the lives of thousands of people. A case in point is that of the Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Christian Hospital in Multan where doctors and nurses from all over the world come to share their vision of Christian love and concern amongst a conservative Muslim community, proactively engaging with locals to train them in immunization, health teaching, first aid training, literacy classes, family planning etc.

I have had the privilege of meeting three extraordinary women who came from Japan and settled in Multan to work as midwives at the hospital. Not only did they have to adjust to a completely antipodal environment but they also had to learn the local language alongside

Urdu for a couple of years before they could actually start their fullfledged practice. Such determination and selflessness is what makes a long lasting difference and sets an example for the locals. There is a plethora of International as well as local Non Government Organizations and aid agencies that are collaborating with the public sector to facilitate the provision of basic services like education, health, sanitation, skill training, disaster management, rural development etc. Million dollar projects are being headed by the likes of DFID, JICA, USAID, AUSAID, UNDP in all kinds of sectors where there is a dearth of technical expertise. The focus of a lot of these organizations is education, primarily because a skilled workforce is fundamental to the process of nation building. Education is the cornerstone for development starting from the grass roots level, which is why a lot of emphasis is laid on basic education and vocational training. Currently the UK through its DFID (Department for International Development) is heading one of the biggest education projects in collaboration with the Punjab government. Rates of return on education are particularly high and represent a strong investment with clear-cut benefits. Such organizations with their counterparts recognize that education is the one sector that has the potential to transform Pakistan. A lot of resources are pooled in directly through public/private partnerships to ensure a dramatic drop in the number of children out of school. For a country whose birth is relatively recent, Pakistan has made improvements by leaps and bounds. There is still a lot of work to be done on this front but on the whole improvements seem sustainable and highly encouraging. A country this large with a vast expanse of unutilized land and untapped resources needs only direction and a strong resolve to steer itself towards the road to progression, one that is already being travelled upon. OUR HERITAGE

culture of love

There is a saying that hate cannot exist without love. And more often than not, hate is strongest when it comes in the place where love once was. Love and peace cannot prosper if there prevails some negative elements such as jealousy, backbiting, status consciousness, hypocrisy, insincerity, greed, covetousness, oppression, tyranny, arrogance, heedlessness, intolerance, disagreements so on and so forth.

By: Saifuddin Ismailji

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Such elements are not only harmful for individuals, but groups and states also. Peace and tranquility are one of the most precious values. It makes no difference whether the parties are Muslim or are two big states. In any case it is the duty of every Muslim individual to do his best for the establishment of peace and tranquility. Islam has always given respect and freedom of religion to all faiths. Freedom of religion is ordained in the Qur’an itself: “There shall be no compulsion in (acceptance of ) the religion. The right course has become clear from the wrong.” (Qur’an 2:256) People all over the world have been celebrating the universal culture of love since the birth of human species landed on the Earth. The basic concept revolves around the concept of love of Allah (God) for his pupil and indeed for all the living creatures. This love of Allah, an act of kindness is seen in the very existence of man and every living organism around us: the way we are built so that we can survive. And this love of Allah, radiates in us the energy, giving out or sharing love to all of humanity in the form of kindness through conduct and expression. Love and affection are the basis of life while we make a passage through this fading world - sharing, caring and supporting - all that touches our lives; holding on tightly the rope made up of a substance called respect on which is dependent the entire balance of everything around us. In Islam, the ultimate love is between Allah and His Pupil. And thus we all know that if one does a harm to another, Allah will not listen to the prayer for forgiveness of the wrong doer, for the forbidden act that he had committed to His other Pupil unless the wrong doer ask forgiveness to whom he had victimized. “Whoever faults his brother for some wrong shall not die before doing it himself.” The act of love, care, respect and forgiving a fellow being is revealed in one of the examples of lifestyle set by the Holy Prophet Mohammad (SAW). The story says it that there was a woman with a poison heart who lived in the locality of Prophet Mohammad (SAW) and hated the Prophet to the extent that she would throw a bagful of garbage while he would walk down the street by her house each day. “One day, the Holy Prophet Muhammad (SAW) did not find the woman on the roof house with the basket (of garbage). This worried him with a thought that something must have happened to her for not being there. (And) so he knocked on the door. ‘Who is it?’ asked a feeble voice. ‘Muhammad bin Abdullah,’ was the reply, ‘can I come in?’ The woman replied in a fear, “I am sick, and too weak to fight or talk back”. But the (seeking of ) permission to enter her house was in such a gentle voice that she allowed him (the Prophet) in. Muhammad (SAW) entered the house and told the woman that not finding her on the roof had him worried and he thus wanted to inquire about her health. (The woman was ill and) he gently asked if she needed any help. (Overwhelmed

of ) the affectionate tone . . . she forgot all (her) fear and asked for some water. He kindly gave her some in a utensil and prayed for her health, while she quenched her thirst. This made her feel very guilty for being so cruel to him (the Prophet) and apologized for her mean behavior. He forgave her and (visited) to her house everyday to clean it, to feed her and pray for her until she was on her feet again. The kind attitude of the Holy Prophet (SAW) inspired her into the recognition of the truth (in his teaching)” and embraced Islam. So in order to understand Islam’s stance on hatred, it is mandatory to refer to its original sources, the Quran and the teachings of the Prophet Muhammad, (SAW). The Quran attaches maximum importance to the high value of human life, whether it is Muslim or Non-Muslim and makes it absolutely forbidden to take an innocent life unjustly. The gravity of such a crime is equated, in the Quran, with the killing of all humanity. Not only is human life sacred in Islam but the property, wealth, family and dignity of all individuals in society are to be respected and protected. Those who transgress these rights and sow fasad (corruption) as the Quran describes it, incur the wrath of Allah. Prophet Muhammad (SAW), forbade the killing of women, children and elderly in war. In fact, he taught that justice is not only to humans but must be shown to animals and all living things. Abu Bakr the first Caliph of the Muslims reflected these prophetic teachings when he advised one of his generals, who was confronting Roman armies,

“I advise you ten things; do not kill women or children or an aged, infirm person. Do not cut down fruit-bearing trees. Do not destroy an inhabited place. Do not slaughter sheep or camels except for food. Do not burn bees and do not scatter them. Do not steal from the booty, and do not be cowardly.” If human beings, instead of waiting for others to take the initiatives, start practicing to spread love and peace from their own small circle, without expecting any reward, will surely benefit at the end of the day. Some people are of the opinion that with different people, cultures, religions, personalities, and beliefs all around the world, it is simply not possible. Now with this belief, it is impossible, however, random acts of kindness, compassion for others, patience when dealing with people, kindness and caring that brightens people’s lives, are some small examples where one does not even have to pay or exert. All that is required is to take the initiative, the first step, and you will see the difference. In all the religions, human beings are equal. One of the greatest gifts is understanding the value of peace and compassion, all we need to do is to work together. Celebrations and festivals are instrumental in nurturing the soul of each individual and spread the message of peace, understanding, and love.

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By: Saifuddin Ismailji

“It is the pigeon on which we must and do depend when every other method fails.” Major General Fowler

Throughout the history of mankind since the Mesopotamia, dating back 3,000 years BC. Excavation at temples and tombs in Egypt, Mesopotamia and Crete, were an evidence that the pigeon had adopted many roles ranging from symbols of gods and goddesses to the messenger of love or even at times of war and also, the source of food. In ancient and modern religions, including fire-worshipers, Muslims, Hindus and Sikhs, pigeon is regarded a revered bird of spiritual sanctity. Inscription of pigeons sitting in a row was found in an excavated temple dedicated to the goddess Ninhursag (the queen of heaven and earth) at Al’Ubaid in Sumeria. Another discovery, dating back to Bronze Age (3rd to 4th millennium BC), was found at the excavated site of the tombs on the island of Cyprus, that unearth a large number of clay bowls, some decorated with images of dove pigeons. Historians interpret that the bowls were used at sacrificial

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worship. And although pre historic records prove that since 8500 years BC, Neolithic man domesticated the rock dove, lack of evidence suggest that the bird was not necessary a food source. Pigeon excrement contains saltpetre, a substance used in the making of gunpowder. Equally good for use as fertilizer to plough the land for a better crop, the pigeon excrement became widely prized than its meat for food consumption. During war times, armed guards were posted outside dovecotes to stop thieves stealing pigeon excrement. Pigeons are renowned of their mind-blowing navigational abilities. With the nature’s built-in internal ‘magnetic compass’, their sharp memory makes them capable to remember landmarks and signposts and thus, reach precise designated spot. With their excellent hearing abilities, Pigeons can detect sounds at far lower frequencies than

humans and thus, capable of acknowledging storms and earthquakes. This remarkably complex and intelligent bird is one among the rare animal species to pass the ‘mirror test’ – a test of self-recognition. They can make out each letter of alphabet, differentiate between photographs, and also identify different human being in a photograph. Pigeons mate for life, and raise two chicks simultaneously, usually producing 8 chics each year. The highly sociable bird species - pigeons are often seen in pairs or flocks of more than 20 birds in a flight. Pigeons can fly in adverse weather conditions at altitudes up to or beyond 6,000 feet at an average speed of 77.6 mph, while the fastest recorded speed is 92.5 mph; much faster than the cargo trains. Pigeons can be easily distinguished from the other bird species due to its very characteristic head-bobbing walk when on the ground. Head bobbing gives them a depth of perception. The pigeon’s eyes function much better with stationary images and therefore, as the pigeon takes a step forward the head temporarily bob behind. The next step jerks the head forward again and so on. This allows the bird to correctly orient itself. THE MESSENGER PIGEON The pigeon is probably best known for its ability to return ‘home’ from long distances and has therefore earned the reputation of a dynamic messenger throughout the history since 2500 years BC. The pigeons were used to carry messages attached to their legs. Going back in time (772 BC), Pigeons have been bred in China. Arab and Indian traders used career pigeons when visiting China. At the first ancient Olympic games held in Olympia (ancient Greece 776 BC), participating athlete brought their own pigeon from their villages. The winners would thus fly his pigeon to deliver the news of victory back home. In the 5th century BC, Cyrus the Great launch the first network of pigeon messengers throughout Assyria and Persia. Later, the Romans and ancient Greeks used the pigeons extensively for carrying messages and the first sophisticated messaging service from one city to another was established in Syria and Persia in the 12th century AD. In the 12c AD, Sultan Nuruddin built pigeon lofts or dovecotes throughout the cities of Cairo and Damascus to implement the first organized pigeon messaging service. Pigeons were used to develop an extensive communication system, linking Egypt with other cities hundreds of miles apart. By 1850, pigeons were decorated with the title of commercial messengers by the world famous Reuters News

Agency in Germany. These reporting pigeons flew between Aachen and Brussels (Belgium), carrying the latest news stocks and shares index. Pigeons were much faster than the regional railway, covering 76 miles between Aachen and Brussels in 2 hours; the trains were 4 hours behind the ‘Air service.’ During this time, telegraph service was established between the two countries but it was so unreliable that pigeons had to move in to provide speedy, reliable service. Later, in the 19th century, New Zealand used the pigeons and established the first official airmail service (1896), called “PigeonGram Service” between New Zealand and Australia Great Barrier Reef areas. It was only recently in 2006 that the last pigeon messaging service was terminated by India’s Police Pigeon Service, based in eastern Orrisa, and retired its 800 career birds to zoos and sanctuaries across the State. PIGEON CORPS AT WAR TIMES Racing or career Pigeons were used in huge numbers during war times throughout Europe, India and Burma. The first historical mention of the pigeon being used to carry messages in wartime was in the city of Sumer, a part of ancient Sumerian civilization in southern Mesopotamia in 2500 BC. The ruler of the city released two pigeons (rock-doves) carrying the news of the liberation from its hostile neighbors. Later in 53 years BC, Carthaginian Military commander: Hannibal used pigeons for dispatches during the Battle of Modena. Historians also believe that Julius Caesar used pigeons to carry messages during the conquest of Gaul (northern Italy, France, Belgium and western Switzerland) from 58 to 51 BC. Pigeon Corps were established during the two World Wars. Despite that the rebel or the enemy lines employed hawk attacks on the pigeons in an attempt to stop dispatch of confidential documents, many of the pigeons dodged through the claws of death, making prompt message delivery to a designated spot. Pigeons were carried in tanks, minesweeping boats and even in the sea-planes, so in the event of attack, messages were dispatched with a note reporting the exact location of the assault. A TALE OF GALLANTRY: WAR HERO PIGEON – ‘CHER AMI’ After the German enemy line shot career pigeons to stop message dispatch, the pigeon named Cher-Ami was called for, and Major Whittlesey wrote a final message saying: “We are along road parallel to 276:4. Our own artillery is dropping a barrage directly on us. For Heaven’s sake, stop it!” and attached the message to Cher Ami. The

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5. Exhibition Tumbler – acrobatic quality inc. Dragoon, Eng. Shortfaced tumbler (Brown and white) 6. Color Pigeons (fancy breed) 7. Pouters and croppers – chest inflater, heavy chest feather 8. Frills and Owls (large chest out) brown feathered white body (Aachen Lacquer shield owl) PIGEON FANS WORLDWIDE In Pakistan, Lahore and Sialkot are probably the main lands for large gathering of Pigeons around public parks, open spaces and old buildings including mausoleums and masjids. There are a few families dedicated to history and breeding of Pigeon, handing it down one generation to another since the partition of the Sub-Continent.

bird was immediately shot through the breast by enemy fire and fell to the ground, but managed to get back into the air. Cher Ami then flew the 25 miles back to his loft at Division Headquarters through a constant barrage of enemy fire and made the journey in 25 minutes. As a result, 194 men from the 77th Infantry Division were saved. Cher Ami had delivered the message despite having been shot through the breast, blinded in one eye, covered in blood, and with a leg hanging by only a tendon. He became a hero of the 77th Division and medics managed to save his life and replace his leg with a wooden one. The pigeon was awarded the Croix de Guerre Medal. PIGEON DOVECOTES Dedicated pigeon houses, or dovecotes have existed since 44 years BC in Egypt. The lofts or dovecotes housed as many as 500 pigeons and were carved into smooth surfaces around flight holes designed to deny access to predators. The interior is usually a large open space with the breeding cubicles or ledges in rows around the internal walls upon which the birds roosted and bred. THE MODERN DAY PIGEON With more than 300 known variety of Pigeons, the original breed includes Rock dove Pigeon, Feral pigeon (most intelligent/ survive in extreme weather), Wood Pigeon, collared dove, Stock dove Pigeon (similar appearance Rock Dove Pigeon), turtle dove pigeon rare columbidae family. Since the past 2000 years, breeding and crossbreeding of fancy pigeons has become an ongoing art form. Pigeons can be classified in eight groups: 1. Utility Pigeon – Mondain and the King. Bred for meat 2. High Fliers or Flying Tumblers, including Tumbler, Tippler and Roller. High flying competitions and acrobatic ability 3. Asian Feather and Voice pigeons, includes Fan tails and trumpeter and Jacobin pigeons 4. Homer (homing) pigeons includes Dragoon, German Beauty Homer

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At the time of partition of India and Pakistan, while a sea of migration of people stormed into Pakistan, the Jhalandhris travelled with their pure breed of pigeons. On the other side, Murad Taqseem migrated from India to Sialkot with a pair of “paintees (35) Waalay” (white pigeons with black spots) pigeons, which were gifted to him for his services by the King, Raja Hari Chend. After a while, this pair of pigeons had a couple of newborn. A wealthy man in Sialkot: Yunus Shah, offered to buy the new born squabs for Rs. 35. This was the time when the amount was equivalent to the salary of a month’s well-paid job. The pure breed has a broad chest, feathery white body with grayish black spots or brush strokes, with distinct black brush-stroke on one of the wings. A pair of granular sky blue eyes with a narrow pupil, this pigeon has a large black beak, black feet and toes. Since time immemorial, Sialkot (though Kasoor until recently) has been the center of 35 waalay pigeons and collectors visit here for the pure breed. “Ali Walay” bred by a Christian in Jhelum, “khak siray” white body, grey neck and long tail. . . Indian Lakhay (marron-red) and “Surkhay” (reddish brown), “Balkay” with its pure black neck and grey eyes. The pure white Tunye or Wehshi brought from India to Sialkot are ranked among the intelligent, high performers with a tendency of flying great distances for the whole day from 5AM to 7PM. Among the other large size are “Templers” also called Irani white pigeon in grey shades with brown spots and Green (wild) pigeon (including Surkhay and pure Black) known as “royal” pigeons. These were the messengers for the Moghal kings. In modern times, these Royal Pigeons are now called “racing pigeons” used for sports and recreation. Surkhay were crossbred to produce a new type of pigeon called Gulway with reddish brown neck. Sabz Chenay with glossy green neck is a high performance flyer. Dab waalay (greenish spots on the neck) appear similar to Sabz Chenay but not of the same characteristics.

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