THE MEMBERSHIP MAGAZINE OF THE BRITISH INDEPENDENT RETAILERS ASSOCIATION ISSUE 06 | APRIL 2017
All things nice Royal family favourite Rachel Riley merges design talent with business acumen
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Comment
Beware the danger of reducing staff CEO Alan Hawkins appeals for a fair cost base to offer independents a chance I DON’T WANT to do a Budget analysis in my article this month as it’s been well covered elsewhere and our official response is on p3. The central disappointment for me, along with many sharing the same objectives as bira, is that while bricks-and-mortar high streets need some immediate help with the latest rates increases, only another medium-term review has been signalled. This isn’t the whingeing south objecting to northern gainers in a tax redistribution; the rates unfairness is wider than that. These are unprecedented times in retail. I suspect we are at the start of a change curve. No one has a God-given right to be here, as the British shipbuilding or motorcycle industries attest. Independents on the high street need to prove their worth. This will never be on price; it will always be based on value, service and product knowledge, not forgetting bringing new products and different ideas to consumers.
Buying from an independent probably means getting it right first time. That’s why a fair cost base is so critical. Independents need to employ people to deliver their uniqueness but the unfair distribution of cost to bricks-and-mortar means the requirement to cut staff, one of the biggest controllable overheads, is becoming a necessity rather than the result of a proper analysis of becoming efficient. Without good people an independent business has no future, so the government needs to set a fair model. There should be variance between different types of firms but retail generally is paying a massive over-proportion of the property-based rates bill.
I was recently on a panel about rates with, among others, a representative of the economic think tank Adam Smith Institute, which argues that challenges weed out poor businesses and replace them with better ones. bira is here to help the progressive independents change habits and modernise, while contacting and retaining their customers in new and exciting ways. A good example of our work is our conference programme this year (please take heed of the plug and see more on p8-9). But advancement must be done in the context of a level playing field, particularly for small- and medium-sized businesses. The direction of travel just now is definitely uphill.
Without people, an independent store has no future, so the government needs to set a fair model for retailing
Cover photograph: Paul Driver
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Big IN THIS EDITION ISSUE 06 APRIL 2017
This is your bira magazine, so share your news, views and ideas with like-minded retailers by contacting us at editorial@bira.co.uk All contributions gratefully received at bira HQ APRIL 2017
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bira sets out its vision for a fairer, workable business rates system for England 2017 APRIL
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13/03
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09:26:
conference 8 bira & awards 2017
Join other innovative and progressive independents in Bristol on 8 May 7
Priory, 11 The Bridlington
The men’s premium fashion store serves the world from the Yorkshire Riviera
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Riley: a mark 16 Rachel all things nice 12 Making in marketing bira members from around the country share ideas to tempt customers in store
How the kidswear designer built up a worldwide brand from her kitchen table
to think 21 Time differently
Indie retailers reveal the secrets of attending the Oxford Summer School
Last 32 The Word
Shaun Higgs of The Sheaf Street Health Store in Daventry just loves retailing
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TUSSLE ON THE TURF ERS GOLF MAST
2017
WICKSHIRE
-AVON, WAR
JULY 19th, THE
TFORD-UPON WELCOMBE, STRA
A four ball team
together to present tions have come occasion in the leading trade associa business and social The industry’s two itive networking, a friendly but, compet it s of bira will battle calendar. cookshop retailer ares supplier DIY, hardware and hardware and housew The independent DIY, with s and honour out for the spoils the obean mansion, members of BHETA. magnificent neo-Jac of s backdrop of the nestled in 157 acres is course Set in the gloriou 18-hole in the heart of onship standard verdant landscape l Welcombe champi side: an undulating is home to beautifu Warwickshire country 6,288-yard championship course sa par-70, shire and provide Warwick of hills the country. This sly through the lakes and rolls seamles . abilities all players of tricky round for
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vat. This will cost £600.00 +
is the only region to have lost in numbers of independents in the past five years Local Data Company’s annual report for 2016
give you:
rolls coffees and Bacon rd course • Pre-game teas / mpionship standa n the fabulous cha • 18 holes of golf o freshments • Halfway House re titions gest drive compe nd lon pin a • Nearest the olf balls • Complimentary g reception • Post-game drinks t-game dinner • Three course pos ers on the day r the best perform • …. and awards fo
D TEAM PLACE AN TO BOOK YOUR MATION CONTACT: FOR MORE INFOR
184 Associates Mob: 07973 829 Michael Dark, MDA rgin.net • Tel: 01582 621121 • l@vi • Email: mda.mai
CLASH OF THE TITANS FORGET THE RYDER Cup and The Open. The big golfing clash of the year is the bira v BHETA competition on 19 July at The Welcombe in Stratfordupon-Avon. Described as “a friendly but competitive networking, business and social occasion”, the inaugural Tussle on the Turf last year was won by a team representing independent DIY, hardware and cookshop retail members of bira. Can the DIY, hardware and housewares supplier members of BHETA make it 1-1 this summer? Alongside a neo-Jacobean mansion, The Welcombe championship-standard 18-hole course is nestled in 157 acres of Warwickshire countryside. Its par-70, 6,288 yards provide a tricky round for players of all abilities. bira president Vin Vara will lead out the retailer teams to defend the handsome trophy they picked up last year, yet the overriding objective of the day is to forge tighter relationships between the members of the two associations and to better understand each other’s needs in a mutually rewarding business relationship. Sarah Golden, bira marketing & membership director, says: “We are always looking to strengthen our members’ relationships with suppliers and this friendly inter-association golf competition is a great opportunity for both to build a better understanding of each other.” Paul Grinsell, executive DIY director at BHETA, adds: “We’re pleased to be able to be working more closely with bira and its members in a relaxed, business and networking event that is establishing itself as a fixture in the calendar.” Retailer and supplier teams of four are invited to participate in the event.
FOR MORE INFORMATION
contact Michael Dark on mda.mail@virgin.net
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London
Five shops a day closed in 2016 but indies keep opening THE LOCAL DATA Company’s annual report lying empty, a vacancy rate of 25% or more. for 2016 on Great Britain’s retail and leisure trends l T he top 75 multiples opened 6,838 stores in 2016, shows the run-up to Brexit saw an increase in the yet the number of multiples’ outlets fell by -2,481. number of shops closing, with a peak reached at the LDC analysis of the new Business Rates valuatime of the referendum in late June. tions per sq m show that shocks reported around the The retail research company says, however, the “cliff edge” Small Business Rate Relief threshold of final quarter of the year, the most important for £12,000 were real. Twice as many small shops were many retailers, saw more shops opening than clos- revalued from below to above the threshold as from ing. The positive trend has continued into above to below. 2017. During 2016 there was a net loss of Shops under 3,000sq ft were valued on 1,650 shops, or just under 5 a day. average at 30% more per sq ft/sq m than national vacancy Some key findings from the LDC The larger stores. This emphasises the imporrate across England report reveal: tance of the transitional arrangements lE ngland has the lowest national vacanand extra caps hurriedly put in place (see cy rate at 11%, followed by Scotland at p7 for more on business rates). highest vacancy 11.9% and Wales at 15.2%. Only Wales The Greater London was not the only rate, in the north-west, is not showing consistent improvement. region to see retail valuations rise, so did lA mong English regions, the north-west the south-east and east Midlands. Some has the highest vacancy rate at 15.3% 18 counties saw increases. The devil is in Overall losses among while London has the lowest at 7.4%. the detail, however: on a town-by-town multiples in 2016 lR etail parks have gained more occupied basis London was not even in the top units net (+314) than any other type of 30 of the list. Southwold, with its 170% location, yet contain only one in 40 increase, was. Market Harborough in stores in the country. Stand-alone and Vacancy rate in small the east Midlands has increased in rateshopping centres fringe location retail saw the greatest able value of more than 50% in 199 retail net loss of stores at -1,603. premises matched to the LDC database. lS hopping centres continue to improve most in London is the only region to have lost in numbers vacancy (14.8% to 13.2%), followed by retail parks of independent shops and the only one to gain in (6.6% to 5.7%) and town centres (11.7% to 11.2%). numbers of chain stores over the past half-decade. lL arge centres (400+ units) have the highest Comparison goods stores selling finished nonvacancy rate at 12.1%, followed by medium cen- food products continue to fall in numbers and in the tres (200-399 units) at 10.7% and small centres five years since 2012 have dropped 9,490 units, split (<200 units) at 8.6%. between multiples and independents. lT he region with the highest proportion of shops Food & beverage chains and independent leisure empty for 5+ years is the north-west at 3.5%, while operators have driven significant growth across the Greater London sits at just 1%. year, gaining 816 outlets, with coffee shops topping lW igan, Dewsbury, Newport (Monmouthsire) and the multiples’ table and personal services such as Burslem (Staffordshire) all have one in four shops barbers heading the independents’ league.
11%
15.3% 2481
8.6%
In bira magazine we are keen to feature our broad spectrum of retailing members from across the UK. Our cover subject, Rachel Riley, has almost two decades of retail experience, but it is encouraging this month to present two newer members - The Priory (right and p11), a men’s fashion store that has just celebrated its 5th anniversary, and The Sheaf Street Health Store (see p32), which opened only last autumn. If you have been trading for a century or just 12 months and want to share your story, email us on editorial@bira.co.uk APRIL 2017
Trade news
Budget ignores the pressure on all independent retailers THE GOVERNMENT MISSED an opportunity to reform business rates with Philip Hammond’s first budget on 8 March, bira believes. bira accepts that business rates raise £25bn, a valuable pot of money for the Treasury. The chancellor’s lack of action regarding making the system fairer, however, completely contradicts statements made by Marcus Jones, the minister for high streets, who told the House of Commons that the government “needs thriving high streets, strong independent retailers and local economies that match the exceptional growth that UK plc has experienced since 2010”. In his budget “Spreadsheet Phil” announced that pubs will receive a £1,000 discount on their business tax bills while not mentioning that online behemoth Amazon will receive a reduction in business rates from April 2017. Additionally, the Treasury’s introduction of discretionary business relief for local newspapers totally undermines Theresa May’s government’s rhetoric that they understand that high street retailers need support in these tumultuous times. On the issue of making tax digital, bira welcomes the decision to delay making this a necessity for businesses under the VAT threshold for another year. bira hopes, however, that Hammond understands that this stay of execution does not alter the fact that many of these smaller businesses will still be unprepared when the ruling becomes mandatory next year. The government needs to implement an
Innovate with bira Don’t delay! Book your place today! There are only a few weeks until the bira Conference and Awards on Monday, 8 May at the Bristol Marriott Royal Hotel, Bristol. bira wants to encourage its members to be independent innovators, so it has a programme that will appeal both to long-established business owners and those new to the ever-changing challenges within retailing. The day’s conference will be packed with practical retail solutions and best practice advice in an interactive and engaging environment. The annual bira awards black-tie dinner will follow in the evening. For full details on the programme and how to book, see pages 8-9.
APRIL 2017
bira says Following this budget, bira will be looking to hold the government to its promises that it understands the needs of retailers by campaigning for: lA much more urgent review on the effects of the business rates revaluation than the chancellor has committed to. lA n immediate retail-specific business rate relief, as actioned by the Welsh Assembly, to help thousands of independent retailers. lT he development of a £12,000 threshold, as opposed to a £12,000 allowance, to redress the current imbalance regarding current business rate bills. lA thorough evaluation and then fundamental reform of the rating system as promised by the previous chancellor in 2014.
effective structure ahead of this change, bira insists, to ensure that businesses can adapt easily to the new requirements. It is in the government’s – and the country’s – interests to ensure that retailers do not have to spend valuable and unnecessary hours trying to comply at the expense of running their businesses.
The initial increase to NICS for the selfemployed was poorly thought through as the benefits and risks of being self-employed are not the same as employed. It also took some dubious logic to think it was not breaking an election promise. bira welcomes the swift reverse but should it come back again the association would want proper consultations and notice. The danger is that by having a hole in his budget calculations Hammond will be looking for further soft targets. bira’s argument is that any changes should not hit the high street and the majority of independents who trade there, the lion’s share of which are likely to be self-employed.
CHA GETS ACTIVE WITH NAME CHANGE FOR NEARLY 23 years, the Cookshop and Housewares Association (CHA) has been supporting independent retailers in the sector by addressing key issues, holding significant launches and events, and spotlighting the best in the industry with its awards. Going forward, the CHA committee will be known as The Cookshop & Housewares Action Group, a new grouping of progressive retailers seeking action, driving the sector forward with plans to excite and engage members. bira Cookshop & Housewares is the new representative group for specialist cookshops, housewares, gift and lifestyle retailers. Members of the action group, a number of forwardthinking retailers, have driven the decision to move away from the historic CHA branding. The CHA group feels that while it is important
to retain the specialism of the division, they think of themselves as bira members first and are stronger for it, with the full weight of bira behind them. Executive secretary to the CHA, Sarah Golden, who is also bira’s marketing, membership and publishing director, said: “Cookshop and housewares is a passionate community, with specialist knowledge and strong opinions about being independent, suppliers, products, trade shows and red tape, which is why it is so vital to retain this specialist group within bira. We acknowledge, however, that many of our members associate themselves more closely with bira. “This move means we retain the specialist activities of the division, such as being co-host of the Excellence in Housewares Awards.”
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Trade news High street footfall improves slightly FOOTFALL TO UK high streets rose slightly in February, while retail parks and shopping centres saw yet more declines, according to the most recent BRC- Springboard Footfall Monitor. Footfall in February was 1% down on a year ago, a sixth consecutive month of decline, but with a shallower fall than the 1.3% drop in January. February’s figure is below the 3-month average of -0.8%. High street footfall rose 0.1% in the month against the previous year’s rate of -2.9%, after a decline of 0.8% in January. The 3-month average is also 0.1%. Footfall in retail park locations fell 1.6% in February, compared to a 2.5% per cent increase in February 2016. This is more than January’s fall of 0.4% and below the 3-month average of -0.9 %. Shopping centres saw footfall decline by 2.6% in February against -0.6% in the same month of 2016. This is just below the 3-month average of -2.4%. Helen Dickinson, chief executive of the British Retail Consortium, remarked: “(The fall in) visits to retail destinations has been a familiar story over the past few years. “There has been a steeper drop than normal in retail parks, with footfall here falling at the fastest rate since November 2013. In comparison, footfall on the highstreet grew marginally, likely driven by its diverse offer. “The modest relief fund for business rates announced in the budget will hopefully go some way to helping those shops hardest hit, albeit only temporarily. It won’t, however, ease the burden for the majority of retailers who will continue to pay nearly a half of rental values in property tax. A business tax system that continues to curtail investment in bricks and mortar is at odds with an industry that desperately wants to invest in order to maintain local jobs and build more experience and engagement with shoppers to attract them into their stores.” Diane Wehrle, insights director at Springboard, commented: “Increasing uncertainty from an imminent triggering of Article 50 has certainly started to have an impact on purchasing behaviour, and in turn the types of destinations shoppers are visiting and what they choosing to spend their money on. High streets are clearly benefitting.”
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Brits have a grand time buying clothes THE AVERAGE BRIT spends over £1,000 on new clothes every year, shops for new items every two months, but leaves a third of it hanging in the wardrobe, according to research by fabric care producer Ariel. A survey of 2,000 adults in the UK found that there are 95 items hanging up in the average woman’s wardrobe, although they wear just 43% of them once a week or more. Women say that they never wear 6% of their clothes, and 7% of items have been worn just once. On average, women own 27 more pieces of clothing than their male counterparts. The top reasons women cite for regularly returning to their most-worn clothes are that they are machine-washable, they last a long time between washes, and they give them the most confidence.
Some 70% of women said they go shopping purely because they love the just-bought feeling of a new item. The research revealed that eight out of 10 women feel happiest and most confident when they are wearing new clothes. A quarter of women claimed that wearing an item of clothing for the first time helps them feel like themselves. But when clothes are not new, women often feel lacklustre and dull, which leads to a loss of confidence. This increases for 18-24-year-old women, with six out of 10 saying that they feel average or mediocre when they are not in a new outfit. Nearly 60% of Brits keep garments just for special occasions, and 20% think that the ones they don’t wear are too hard to care for due to handwashing or dry cleaning restrictions.
Walking 186 miles in a good cause ONE OF BIRA’S favourite charities, Rainy Day Trust (RDT), will be boosted by the efforts of its CEO, Bryan Clover (right), walking the 186 miles of the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path during 3-13 May. The hardware industry charity will benefit from Bryan trekking for 10 days, averaging about 20 miles a day; the usual duration is 15 days. He will have much time to enjoy the breathtaking scenery as he tackles 35,000ft of climb and descent. All funds raised by the walk will be spent in Wales, where RDT wants to
raise awareness of its work. Housewares brand Addis is the primary sponsor for the initiative, but Bryan is looking for other support. A company donation will be acknowledged on social media and will be mentioned during the walk on Twitter. Individual donations can be made on his Just Giving page https://www.justgiving. com/fundraising/PembsCoastalChallengeRainyDayTrust Finally, says Bryan, supporters are welcome to come along for a day and join him on the walk, bringing some sponsorship and helping raise awareness of RDT. APRIL 2017
We
are allocating our marketing budget much more strategically this year Rita Dewan, brand director, Lords
Scottish sales slow at start of the year FOOD SALES ARE outpacing non-food sales in Scotland, which has seen a slow start to retailing in 2017, according to the latest KPMG survey for the Scottish Retail Consortium. In January, Scottish sales declined by 3.2% on a like-for-like basis compared to January 2016, when they had decreased by 4.0%. As Hogmanay was included in January’s figures this year and December’s last year, total food sales fell by 2.6%. Non-food products saw the largest percentage fall year-on-year (4.3%), with clothing and footwear performing worst of all. In February, food sales rose 1.3%, ahead of the 3-month and 12-month averages of 0.6% and 0.3% respectively. This represents the highest 12-month average growth since July 2014. Unadjusted for Online sales, total non-food sales in Scotland declined 4.4% in February. The performance was affected by a negative distortion due to the timing of Easter, particularly in categories like stationery, beauty and women’s accessories. On a 3-month basis, the online-adjusted total non-food change was -0.6%, the first decline since August. Adjusted for the effect of online shopping, clothing & footwear showed its worst growth since last April and stayed at the bottom of the growth rankings in February, a sign of consumers’ reluctance to spend on non-essential items and less footfall than last year. The timing of the half-term worked in favour of February’s footwear sales for children. The women’s segment was disappointing, perhaps owing in part to the later Mother’s Day this year. There was also less residual stock as retailers had started their Sales earlier than last year. The overall non-food category posted another decline in February, even adjusted for the effect of online sales. This is the deepest decline since January 2015. However, it compared with one of the
highest growths registered in 2016. While furniture, particularly bedroom furniture, was said to be quite resilient in February, the largest ticket items and some non-essentials suffered from lower sales. Typical Mother’s Day categories, like stationery and some home accessories, were facing a negative comparison in the last week of the month. Electricals and consumer electronics was generally said to be disappointing in February, apart from mobile phones and wearable technology. There was also a better demand in gaming than for a long time. Sales of household appliances were sluggish. Health products sold well in February but beauty sales saw a deficit from the late timing of Mother’s Day, which is the second biggest buying time after Christmas. This particularly affected perfumes and cosmetics, as well as gifting packages. On the first month’s figures, David Lonsdale, director of the SRC, said: “These are somewhat dreich retail sales results for January, showing a dip of nearly 2% even when falling shop prices are taken into account. The Scottish local authority elections are coming into view, and retailers are keen to see action which makes it easier and less costly to invest in our town centres and which improves footfall. More widespread use of local discretionary powers to reduce business rates and easier and more affordable parking for shoppers could help support struggling high streets.” He added in the February survey: “These figures suggest Scottish consumers are maybe beginning to tighten their belts and acknowledge the strain from rising overall inflation and moderating wage growth, with council tax set to creep up soon too. The commitments to increase the UK personal allowance and maintain Scottish income tax rates at current levels will therefore provide timely and welcome support for family finances.”
Making a mark with marketing CHRISTMAS GOODIES FOR top customers. Window displays designed to raise a smile. More exclusive events in-store. Working with other independent retailers on joint initiatives. Giving practical gifts rather than money to local charities. These are some of the clever and effective marketing ideas bira members are trying this year to engage with their customers and fight back against the nationwide phenomenon of declining footfall. APRIL 2017
Brits are a nation of appliance addicts HOMEWARES AND WHITE goods retailers among bira members will be pleased to learn that Britain is a nation of appliance addicts, obsessed with kitchen and household gadgets that are making their lives easier, According to a survey carried out by etailer AppliancesDirect.co.uk, the average UK adult uses 9.5 appliances every day, and owns 19 appliances with a value of £5,579. Oddly, the survey reveals that 78% of households believe they used fewer than five appliances each day. The television, kettle and microwave are the three most commonly used appliances. Tumble driers, temperature appliances such as air conditioners and electric heaters, and bread makers are the appliances used least regularly. According to the research, the biggest “appliance addicts” are in Birmingham, where on average 12 appliances are used daily. In Bristol only six are used.
The top 10
The most regularly used appliances, apart from the fridge/freezer: lT V lK ettle lM icrowave lT oaster lC offee machine lD ish washer lW ashing machine lJ uicer or smoothie maker lH air appliances lV acuum cleaner
The key is to aim with a rifle, not a blunderbuss. As Rita Dewan, brand director at London-based cookware chain Lords, explains: “We are allocating our marketing budget much more strategically this year by focusing on what we believe makes a difference to us.” For more on marketing ideas for 2017 from bira members around the country, see our feature on pages 12-14.
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bira manifesto
Wanted: wholesale reform of business rates bira is keeping up the pressure on government to correct the iniquities of the property tax system THE FIGHT GOES on. To support its longrunning campaign to have the business rates system in England overhauled, bira has put together a manifesto stating its arguments. The full document is on the bira website. Here we publish some of the highlights. Business rates is the commonly used name of a tax on the occupation of non-domestic property (National Non-Domestic Rates – NNDR). A rating list is required to identify each relevant non-domestic property in an area, and then the business is assigned a rateable value based on a rental valuation of the property. For each property, the local authority calculates and issues a bill, which it is responsible for collecting, with powers to pursue payment. In 2014-15 authorities collected a total of £22.9bn in business rates, representing 3.53% of total UK tax income. Local authorities achieve an average in-year collection rate of 98.1%. The retail industry contributes £7.3bn in business rates annually – that is nearly 25% of all rates receipts, far more than any other industry. The rateable value of a business property reflects its general rental value, but not its prof-
itability. Two identical shops in the same street will pay the same rate, even if one is extremely profitable and the other is having difficulty. Business rates are unable to consider any nuances between sectors. Smaller shops are finding that while their profitability has remained stable over a period, the shop value has increased. This means that the government will increase the rateable value of the property, while there has been no change in earnings. Through revaluation, the business could be driven into difficulty as its margins are put under pressure by the increase in outgoings. These same businesses were assessed in April 2015, after which date certain areas have seen a considerable slump, so the value assigned is not representative, making it even harder for the business to stay active. Conversely, online giant Amazon will enjoy a cut when the new rates take effect in April 2017. The average bill for Amazon’s nine distribution centres will fall by 1.3% or £147,6324. Considering the advantages that Amazon already has over the high street, this underlines that the current system is not fit for purpose.
bira proposes this three-point plan
1
An immediate retailspecific business rate relief, as actioned by the Welsh Assembly. This would be a short-term quick fix to help thousands of independent retailers affected by business rate increases because of the recent revaluation.
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2
Change the £12,000 threshold to a £12,000 allowance to all retail businesses with no cut-off. This would redress the current imbalance and benefit smaller retail businesses with a reduction in their bill, which could be the difference between closing or surviving in 2017 and beyond.
3
Undertake a fundamental reform of the rating system creating a completely new and fair rating structure for modern retailing. Such a root-andbranch review was promised in 2014.
bira’s action call
Concerns that disproportionate and unfair revaluations will damage UK businesses have struck a chord. Ministerial statements in Parliament on 22 February suggest that there will be financial support for businesses that are particularly hard hit. bira believes that there needs to be a fundamental review of business rates, so the government can help smaller retail businesses thrive in a world where online retail is a challenge. Indeed, the government has committed to discretionary business relief for local newspapers due to the emergence of an online news market. Considering this sets a precedence for other “at risk” sectors to campaign for the same discretion, it would make much more sense for the government to reevaluate business rates. bira believes that the government could look to put in place a faster, simpler approach for small businesses. This would be a more agile process that could be undertaken quickly and not take them away too much from the business. bira wonders if the Valuation Tribunal for England could challenge the Valuation Ofiice Agency (VOA) as opposed to putting the burden of proof on businesses. This would help businesses as well as make the fine more palatable for a company if its appeal is not successful because it has not done all the work and has been fined for the privilege. It would also take away the opportunity for the VOA to subjectively delay resolution as there would be less information for a company to supply and therefore a lower risk that a challenge is incomplete. Finally, bira would like the government to consider whether there could be a rise in the thresholds of fee levels or instead apply a certain percentage of the amount in dispute as the fee. This would be a more effective disincentive for large businesses submitting unsubstantiated appeals while not disproportionately deterring small businesses from making legitimate appeals. Otherwise, smaller businesses could be discouraged from lodging an appeal, while bigger businesses will still lodge appeals if they thought it was worth it.
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8 MAY 2017 MARRIOTT ROYAL HOTEL , BRISTOL
A unique celebration of indie ideas, education and networking Whether you have an established store or are new to the independent retail world, you will benefit from attending the bira conference 2017 to enjoy its new ideas and inspiring insights BRISTOL, FAMED FOR Banksy, Brunel and the invention of Ribena, is the Sunday Times Best Place to Live 2017. It is also beloved by many for its focus on individuality; it has the UK’s longest stretch of independent shop. Next month, on 8 May, it will be the stage for a celebration of retail ideas, education and networking at the bira national conference and awards, at the Bristol Marriott Royal Hotel. The nation’s only retail conference dedicated entirely to indie store owners boasts an impressive line-up of influential speakers sharing their insights and secrets to retail success. Delegates can better equip themselves with powerful and achievable new ideas, plan their retail futures and make new connections with retailers from many disciplines. Based on feedback from bira members, this year’s programme is more interactive. Alongside traditional keynote sessions, there are three streams of hands-on workshops to help achieve growth, overcome challenges, and innovate. Delegates can pick the own programme. Following the day-long conference, bira will be awarding the very best in independent retail at the annual gala awards dinner. Tickets cost from £95 per person (£175 non-member). Book today to guarantee your place. Special rates are available for accommodation at a selection of hotels in Bristol.
CONFERENCE AGENDA 2017 10.00 National President’s welcome Vin Vara, Toolshop 10.05 CEO’s Report Alan Hawkins, bira 10.20 Annual Retailer Address Mackays of Cambridge 10.40 Navigating the New Retail Landscape Jonathan Reynolds, Saïd Business School 11.20 Networking break 11.50 Workshop streams – 30-minute sessions – Pick your own programme STREAM: GROW Certain Retail brand therapy How to build a brand your customers will love.
STREAM: INNOVATE Google Digital Garage Reach new customers online Learn how to make your business more visible online.
STREAM: CHALLENGE bira legal Change the shape of your team – how to manage key staffing issues.
12.20 Workshop streams – 30-minute sessions – Pick your own programme Stax & EKM Website and digital Launching an online trading platform from scratch.
Google Digital Garage Reach new customers online Learn how to make your business more visible online.
Vend Future proof your business Learn more about the retail tech trends that will have major impacts on the retail industry in 2017 and beyond.
12.50 Lunch - including Annual General Meeting 2.00 Workshop streams – 30-minute sessions – Pick your own programme Dulux Be inspired by Marianne Shillingford Dulux creative director shares the power of colour to communicate, connect and transform the spaces in which we live work and play.
Google Digital Garage Reach new customers online Learn how to make your business more visible online.
Neil Mackay An independent retailer on a one-man mission He wants to change the public perception of shop theft.
2.30 Networking break 3.00 Recent business rate reforms and what this means to your business Mark Radford 3.10 Keynote address Laura Tenison, Jojo Maman Bébé 3.50 Conference close
6.45 bira Awards drinks reception and dinner
Thanks to our sponsors and contributors
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8 MAY 2017 MARRIOTT ROYAL HOTEL , BRISTOL
KEYNOTE ADDRESS
LAURA TENISON MBE Founder of Jojo Maman
Bébé Hear from one of the most innovative entrepreneurs in the UK about how her enormously successful company has become one of Britain’s most prominent independent retail outlets. She started with a £2,000 loan from her brother. STREAM: CHALLENGE
NAVIGATING THE NEW RETAIL LANDSCAPE
JONATHAN REYNOLDS Deputy dean at the Saïd Business School
Professor of marketing and author of the new book, Navigating the New Retail Landscape, Jonathan will use his expertise and experience to discuss how to achieve success in this new era of retail. STREAM: CHALLENGE
RATES & YOUR BUSINESS
MARK RADFORD Business rates appeal advisor
bira’s very own business rate advisor and expert, Mark will talk through recent business rate reforms and what they mean to you and your business.
STREAM: CHALLENGE
MARC COOPER
DUNCAN MACKAY
NEIL MACKAY
Joint owner, Mackays of Cambridge
Joint owner, Mackays of Cambridge
Vice-president EMEA at Vend
Alongside his brother Neil and Neil’s son Andrew, Duncan will share the inspiring journey of building a successful independent company from his father’s single instruction: “Go and make yourself a business”.
Passionate, determined and tenacious are all words that describe Neil’s campaign to alter the public perception of what most call ‘shoplifting’. Theft is shops is a serious issue and Neil is on a mission to stop this being trivialised by public and police.
We are fast approaching a place where technology will offer retailers a channel that will create a perfect synergy between payments, loyalty, marketing and advertising. Marc will discuss how to future proof your business.
STREAM: CHALLENGE
STREAM: GROW
STREAM: GROW
MARIANNE SHILLINGFORD
SARAH SIMCOTT
PHIL DEAN
Employment lawyer and advisor at bira legal
Founder and managing director of Certain
Creative director, Dulux
Sarah will provide concise and tailored pointers on how to increase efficiency through proper staffing practices and other key areas of employment law.
Covering new ways to develop your business in the Stream: Grow presentations, brand communication expert Phil will share creative ideas on how to build a brand your customers will love.
Marianne will inspire delegates with her discussion on the power of colour. She will explain how it can communicate and connect us and how it transforms the spaces in which we spend our work and leisure time.
STREAM: INNOVATE
ABBEY OLADAPO Lead trainer at the Digital Garage by Google
Learn how to connect with your audience in new and innovative ways from this digital expert. Find out how to become more visible and reach more customers through online channels.
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AFTER DINNER SPEECH
KATE ADIE Journalist and after dinner speaker
Kate became a household name while covering war zones as aBBC chief news reporter. On the evening, she’ll discuss aspects of Britain’s wartime home front, when women started going to football matches.
BOOK TODAY
at bira.co.uk/conference17 email: events@bira.co.uk or call Paulina on 0121 446 6688
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GP506
Business profile THE PRIORY, BRIDLINGTON
Left: The original shop with the larger addition down the alley. Inset: Damien Ladwa from Lee Jeans is flanked by Vince
Clarke and Leo Jarvis at The Priory’s fifth anniversary party
From Bridlington to the world SEEING A RETAIL business grow from a turnover of £164,000 in its first year to £1.3m in its fifth year is exciting but frightening too, admits Vince Clarke, the founder of premium menswear store The Priory. Rather than a carefully planned growth, this impressive increase has come about through a series of circumstances that have involved the confidence of (relative) youth, risk-taking, good timing, lucky coincidences and passion. For Vince, opening a store in his home town was driven by financial need rather than any affection for Bridlington, the Yorkshire seaside resort. Having worked in the menswear industry for seven years, mainly in sales account mangent with various divisions of VF Corporation (which counts Lee Jeans, Wrangler, The North Face, Eastpak, Timberland, Vans and Napapijri among its brand portfolio), he wanted his own business, but like many ambitious entrepreneurs, he lacked capital. With local businessman Jack Read as a sleeping partner contributing £5,000 and Vince The Priory 11 Manor Street & Victoria Mill, Bridlington YO15 2SA Established: 2012 Staff: 11 full-time Hours: Mon-Sat: 9-5 Sun: Closed Sales: £1.3m, of which 70% is online Brands include: Adidas, Barbour, Carhartt, Folk, Fred Perry, Lee, Stussy, The North Face, Vans thepriorymenswear.co.uk the priorystore @the_priory & priory_m
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The owners of The Priory in east Yorkshire have just celebrated their fifth year in business, proving that a passion for premium menswear pays off matching that, The Priory was launched in 2012 with just £10,000 as a buying budget. “I had looked around for a location for the shop and it became obvious that Bridlington was a cheaper option than my preferred venues of York and Beverley,” recalls Vince. “My girlfriend Lianne and I were thinking of starting a a family (they now have children aged 5 and 2), so the whole venture was very risky, but we decided to go with a tiny shop on Manor Street, which we still have.” Ten brands were bought for the first season, with just £1,000 being spent on each. Four - Lee, Edwin, Carhartt and Fred Perry - are still stocked by the business. Initially the shop imagery had gothic and religious overtones - The Priory name was a nod to a local ecclesiastical landmark - but this changed when Leo Jarvis, a schoolfriend of Vince, came on board, firstly as an employee and soon after as a shareholder. Right from the start the idea had been to set up a transactional website as the 35,000 people in Bridlington were never going to be enough to build a big premium menswear business. Within six months priorymenswear.co.uk was trading, which meant more space was needed. A storage unit behind the shop was rented but soon became too small for the volume of
online sales. Luckily in late 2014 Victoria Mill, an old water-driven power station also right behind the shop, came up for rent and the team went for it, despite the financial risk involved. Suddenly, growing from the tiny shop of 600sq ft,The Priory now had 6,500sq ft to fill, so Vince, 31, and Leo, 29, rented out space to a barber, and added a coffee shop and a lounge area. They also added another group of brands to appeal to a slightly different consumer to the original store, which retains a denim and skatewear bias. To assist cashflow, The Priory rents the mill basement to an antique dealer who needs storage space. Some of his furniture and other collectibles are sold in the store. After trying to work with concessions, The Priory has taken over the running of the coffee shop, it has added an alcohol licence and Victoria Mill has become a destination and lifestyle store. The Priory branding is now more reminiscent of a rehab clinic than a church; the company logo is a like a pill. After the rapid growth, consolidation and making a profit for the first time are a priority. The website, accounting for 70% of the turnover, with 20% of that coming from Europe, is the driving force. The website handles six currencies, including US and Canadian dollars and Japanese yen. The Priory avoids working with third-party sites like Amazon and eBay. A major concern is getting the right merchandise in at the right time to have a chance of selling it at full price. Vince is keen to stay away from discounting: “Menswear has changed. When I started in the industry, a shop might have four or five brands it relied on. It’s more likely to have 40-50 these days due to the fragmentation of the market.” Footwear was 50% of sales at first; now it is nearer 20%, while the clothing itself has become more expensive. Winter jackets retailing at £700-£1,000 are now part of the offer. “We understand brands and segmentation. We are more interested in timeless pieces than in jumping on fashion trends. We have to be careful about what we buy because if everyone else has it, where is our point of difference? We are thinking of going to the US to look for new brands.” The winning formula for The Priory, Vince says, depends on the desirability of product, the selection presented and customer service. Those old-fashioned retailing disciplines should keep The Priory in very good health.
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Promotional ideas for 2017
Making a mark What is the most effective way to promote a retail business? With falling footfall a national phenomenon, we ask bira members what marketing ploys they use to get their shops noticed by consumers LIN CHERRINGTON CREATIVE COOKWARE, EDINBURGH LIN CHERRINGTON, DIRECTOR of Creative Cookware in Edinburgh, has had “to think long and hard about how to improve business for 2017” and has started putting into place a few choices. “Firstly, we are expanding our social media offerings. We use Facebook not only to show new and returning products but also to have a ‘Product of the Week’ both in-store and online and to get more interactive with our followers. “We are now using Instagram, which is working brilliantly so far. This reaches more females who are slightly younger and are more visually aware, which is perfect for our cookware products. Our website is up and running and we are looking to expand to other online marketing sites as we need another revenue stream to complement our business. “Also, I am on the board of Essential Edinburgh, which is the BID group for our area. My aim is to highlight the lack of footfall within (our location of) Rose Street and to endeavour to get council funding for directional signage and a general clean-up of the area. We are in the middle of a World Heritage Site. We should be attracting visitors, which will increase overall business revenues. “Finally, we continue to search out new products and brands to have them in-store before anyone else in the area.”
We are now using Instagram, which reaches slightly younger females who are more visually aware. 12
MARTYN SUTTON UNCLE JEREMY’S HOUSEHOLD INGLETON, NORTH YORKSHIRE IT’S A FAIR guess that toy shop owner Martyn Sutton is the only bira member to have named his business after a lesser-known work by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle. Four years ago he and his wife Judith relocated with their toy shop, Totsongs Etcetera, from Nottinghamshire to the Yorkshire Dales village of Ingleton. Martyn learned that, although Conan Doyle was born in Edinburgh, his first marriage took place at St Oswald’s parish church, in nearby Thornton-in-Lonsdale, in 1885, and his mother, Mary Doyle, lived in the local hamlet of Masongill for 35 years, so he was a regular visitor to Ingleton. Uncle Jeremy’s Household, a short story written by Conan Doyle in 1885 for The Boy’s Own Paper, is set in and around Ingleton. It features characters called Hugh Lawrence and John Thurston, who Martyn believes are prototypes for Sherlock Holmes and Dr Watson, who first appeared in A Study in Scarlet in 1887. Martyn, seeing a marketing angle, renamed his shop Uncle Jeremy’s Household in April 2014. He believes even the name of the detective hero was inspired by Conan Doyle’s knowledge of Ingleton. The village has connections with a prominent family of Sherlocks from Liverpool and in Victorian times, the area underneath the village viaduct was known as The Holmes.
Martyn was surprised no one was using the links to promote the area to tourists, so he has adopted the local connections with the celebrated author and his most famous creation as a marketing hook for his shop. He runs two Facebook pages – one for the shop (which retains the Totsongs name) and one on the Conan Doyle connections. His research has prompted several features to be written in local papers and magazines, such as The Westmoreland Gazette and Y, the Welcome to Yorkshire publication. “All this has been editorial and not paid-for advertising, says Martyn. “I found an angle to use with the little-known Conan Doyle connection to our area, but we’re still basically a shop that sells toys, children’s clothing and gifts. It’s all about finding something to make you stand out. While I am not a great fan of social media, I do use it for business. “The two pages have different audiences and I share posts from one to the other. It does seem to work and when I recently posted about a new range of tablemats and coasters, people did come in that day to buy some. My research and work on Conan Doyle has taken more than two years, but it’s now beginning to bear fruit.” APRIL 2017
We’re
looking to try out a few Twitter competitions, plus some Facebook Live videos from our stores Sam Hale, Advance Performance, Peterborough & Cambridge
NEIL MACKAY MACKAYS OF CAMBRIDGE A USEFUL MEMBER of staff at ironmonger Mackays of Cambridge is “Dickie”, a mannequin that has achieved considerable fame. Says director Neil Mackay: “Our silent mannequin outside the shop used to occasional freak out customers, so we gave him a personality. As Dickies Workwear send us four outfits a year for him, he is Dickie Mackay. We’ve had some real fun engaging with the community through him; he’s filmed surprise selfie pranks and an eccentric Tour de France and obviously, he did the Mannequin Challenge just before last Christmas. He has his own following locally, he’s got a Facebook page and Twitter feed – check out his videos! People always comment on him. It’s important to have some fun and think outside of the box, to try different ideas. “We also have a huge reputation for building links with local charities, but rather than just giving money, we do more creative things. This year, for example, we’ve put together tool kits for
SAM HALE
JANINE TOZER
ADVANCE PERFORMANCE, PETERBOROUGH & CAMBRIDGE
NOT JUST PETS, BATH
THE PROPRIETOR OF triathlon store Advance Performance in Peterborough, Sam Hale will be blending live events with digital marketing this year. “We frequently have events around training for local running and triathlon events throughout the race season, which is all part of our ethos of adding value to the products and services we provide. The experience and advice our welltrained team can share is what makes us more than just a sports store. “Our marketing spend is likely to be the same this year. In our experience, we’ve found social media and promotion through our phone app more successful than email marketing. We’ll be continuing with developing and engaging with our Facebook audience. We will continue to share our regular running and triathlon advice blog posts via our website and social media, plus working alongside local clubs providing sponsorship. “We’re looking to try out a few Twitter competitions to expand our followers, plus some Facebook Live videos from within our stores.” APRIL 2017
IN BATH, JANINE Tozer is busy promoting her Not Just Pets shop both in the premises and in the community. “We are getting more creative with our window displays and now we tend to create a ‘scene’ rather than just display products. We had great fun during the tennis and Oympics seasons. Last year our Valentine window was the spaghetti scene from Lady and the Tramp. We are also teaming up with more suppliers that can provide PoS and marketing material for the window. For Valentine’s Day, one gave us free Pupcakes to give out to customers buying treats.” Facebook and Twitter are used every day to post up information and products, and to share stories and funny anecdotes. Janine also uses Pinterest and is starting to use Instagram more. Cooperation with other independents is also important. “Last year we teamed up
local charities. Our suppliers donated the tools for five kits (about £500 value each) and we put it out on the internet. Twenty local charities applied for them and we put a little piece about each online asking the public to vote. We then spent a day delivering the kits to the five winners and learned so much about our local people, as well as creating the PR.” It is easy to see why Neil was named Industry Personality of the Year at the DIY Week Awards in January. He has another idea for becoming involved in the local community: “We’ve got involved too with the fast-growing movement of local Repair Cafés (See repaircafe.org). They’re run by mostly retired people in local community centres and asked if we could support. We pulled together a £1,000 toolkit which the local Repair Cafés hire from us for free for their events, while we advertise the Cambridge events to our customers. We’re just working together with our community in innovative ways, not just donating money. It may not deliver directly related sales but we’re building recognition and good sentiment for the long term.
with local shops on a treasure/scavenger hunt-type of activity, which was good fun - and not much work for us as we didn’t organise it! It was good for forging links with other local independent businesses too. “We also did a Hallowe’en Trick or Treat Trail in 2015, which was a huge hit with youngsters as we incorporated lots of gooey challenges and bug handling. We raised funds for a local bat charity. The staff always wear fancy dress for these days which adds to the fun. I also team up with the Bath BID. It provides a gazebo in the city where we can tout our wares and promote the business. For added appeal we usually combine with Forever Hounds Trust, which rehomes lurchers and greyhounds.”
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Promotional ideas for 2017 KEVIN BELLWOOD
RITA DEWAN LORDS, LONDON & CHORLEYWOOD
ROOBARB, BRIDGNORTH, SHROPSHIRE IN BRIDGNORTH, SHROPSHIR E , Kevin Bellwood, coowner of the Roobarb gift shop, likes to coordinate events with his neighbouring independents to increase the relevance and importance of the activity. “Every few months, across spring, summer, autumn, for Christmas and the shop’s anniversary, we hold champagne and canapé evenings. Sometimes we tie up with other shops close to us and get them to do something on the same date. “We email our existing customer base and ask them to come along to our Spring Launch, for example. We also print invitations for our customers over a period of a couple of weeks before. We offer them 10% off on the evening. If you have 5%-7% take-up of people attending, you are doing well. Give it a try.”
RITA DEWAN, BRAND director of bira award-winning cookshop chain Lords, takes a multi-faceted approach: “We are allocating our marketing budget more strategically this year by focusing on what we believe makes a difference to us. We’ve tried many different marketing activities, both traditional and innovative, over the years. Some work better than others for us. We continue with our efforts to communicate with our customers and attract new ones by involving and supporting our local communities. Each of the shops selects a local charity to support. Social media is a must in today’s world but events both in-store and off-site are a great way to engage customers and introduce brands.”
WILLIAM COE COES OF EAST ANGLIA “AT CHRISTMAS LAST year we gave our top 200 customers a gift pack of wine, coffee and condiments. There was no need for a purchase from them. It was just a thank you for their custom during 2016. It went down really well,” says William Coe of Ipswich-based Coes.
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APRIL 2017
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All thin
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APRIL 2017
ngs nice The big interview
RACHEL RILEY IS as cheerful and uplifting as the childrenswear that’s made her name over the past two decades. She embodies the truism that a good independent retailing business reflects the personality of its owner, and vice versa. Although her womenswear line accounts for only 5% of her sales, the pretty and nostalgic dresses and pastel-coloured cardigans she wears also encapsulate the spirit of the brand. It is correct to speak of Rachel Riley as a brand. As well as two shops in well-heeled districts of central London, the business has a growing ecommerce side and a network of wholesale stockists stretching from the UK to the US and Japan. Everything Rachel Riley sells is designed and overseen by Rachel, who is the face, heart and soul of the company. Her husband, fashion photographer Daniel Jouanneau, is a non-executive director, but this is very much Rachel’s domain – it is, after all, her name over the doors and on every label. “Running this business is a 24/7 responsibility 365 days a year,” she says, “but it’s fulfilling for me because it’s fun and creative. As the managing director, my job is to ensure everything is present & correct.” With a sales office in the US, important customers in Japan who like to see the boss, and factories to visit in China and Europe, this is not a desk-bound job. Rachel travels between four and six times a year, taking her away from home and the head office about six weeks a year: “I have to make sure that the business works when I am not there. It operates without me these days but I can still have a view of it from wherever I am.” She also acknowledges the guidance given by Manny Silverman, a retailing veteran who has been her business advisor for nine years,
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and her team, several of whom have service of 10 years or very near to it. “Manny is very good at keeping me focused,” she admits. Rachel’s first shop occupies a 600sq ft corner site in Pont Street, Knightsbridge. Her second, a 1,000sq ft unit on Marylebone High Street, houses in its efficient basement her head office and the team looking after the transactional website, marketing and design. In total, Rachel Riley employs 24 staff, with eight in head office and another eight split between the two shops. There are two staff in a production office in Hong Kong, two salespeople in the US and her two longestserving colleagues are in France, making samples for many of the products carrying the Rachel Riley label. Ironically for a business that is now so associated with vintage English style, it originated in France in the mid-1980s when Rachel and Daniel started a family which grew to be two boys and a girl. The couple had met when, after graduating from Cambridge University with a degree in social anthropology, Rachel had become an international model. Living in Paris, Rachel was frustrated at the lack of babywear and kidswear she liked or approved of, so, in the classic vein of the entrepreneur, she began making garments herself. “My mother and grandmother had taught me how to sew and knit properly. As a child, I made outfits for my dolls and teddies. And I got an O-level in needlework and dressmaking!” she recalls. Friends liked what they saw and began asking Rachel to make something for their children, so in 1994 the Rachel Riley brand was founded in France as a mail order catalogue with around 35 pieces, all photo-
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Photograph: Paul Driver
From making clothes for her own children, Rachel Riley has built up a worldwide brand embracing retailing and wholesaling with her vintage-inspired romantic designs
The big interview
Despite the currency implications of Brexit, we are not going to raise our opening price points. People see us as a valuefor-money brand. We want to maintain that
Rachel Riley 82 Marylebone High Street, London W1U 4QW & 14 Pont Street, London SW1X 9EN Founded: Business started 1994, shops 1998 (Pont Street) & 2001 (MHS) Size: 1,000sq ft Marylebone, 600sq ft Pont St Opening hours: Marylebone M-S 10-6.30 Sun 10.30-5.30 Pont Street M-S 10-6.30 Staff: 24 across the business, 16 in the UK, 4 in Hong Kong, 2 in US, 2 in France Sales: £2.4m, of which c £0.8m is from wholesale. c25% of retail sales are online. Bira member since: 1998 rachelriley.co.uk @RachelRileyLtd @rachelrileyUK
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graphed by Daniel. Items were made to order; the demand confirmed to Rachel that she had a viable business to develop. A desire to have children Felix, Alfie and Rose educated in the UK brought the family to London in 1998 and Rachel opened the Pont Street shop to give a physical space to her growing business. Home was the flat above the shop. The Marylebone High Street store was added in 2001 at the beginning of the strategy of the property firm Howard de Walden to revive this busy indie-focused thoroughfare. Around this time, Rachel responded to American interest with her first “trunk show”, a sort of pop-up shop for individual customers. She still does them today and the US accounts for 35% of the company’s total sales. In 2009, 15 years after selling only directly herself, Rachel moved into wholesaling, with Harrods and Selfridges early stockists in the UK and Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue in the US. She now has about 65 stockists in the UK and a similar number around the world. Her reputation has been helped by highprofile customers such as Suri Cruise, Harper Beckham, Bluebell Halliwell and the British royal family putting their children in her distinctive designs. Prince George has been seen regularly in Rachel Riley outfits. Retailing and wholesaling, of course, run
to different timetables. When bira magazine had a cup of tea with Rachel in February her samples for the spring-summer 18 collection had been, in her own words, “done and dusted, ready to sell to wholesale customers from May this year”. Even more confusingly, the designs for the autumn-winter 18 range were almost finished, ready for sampling and early production. How does she manage to operate in two or three seasons at once? “The sampling and production is my main love,” she admits. “Designing is the easy bit of my job. It is hard to explain how it’s done, but creativity wells up inside you just like love does. I feed the creative process because I am interested in all things I see, whether it’s my lovely archives, old conversational prints, books, films, antiques…” Many of the prints used in the collection are unique to Rachel Riley and they have largely contributed to her distinctive “handwriting”. The collection sizing runs from new-born to about 14 years, but most of the sales are with the baby and pre-school age group. The look is unmistakeably romantic and nostalgic, and that is a result, in part, of Rachel liking the quality levels of bygone days. “History shapes fashion. I am 53, so I was brought up in the 1960s. My styles are the result of my creative process that echoes classic madeat-home clothes, as made by mothers, grandAPRIL 2017
The big interview
Rachel Riley’s world is full
of fun, patterns and colour, as reflected in her flagship shop in Marylebone High Street, London
mas and aunts between the 1920s and 1960s,” says Rachel. “They hark back, in part, to a period of real austerity, when make do-and-mend was a philosophy adopted by many, the era before the 1960s when commercialisation took over the fashion industry.” There is no “home-made” look about Rachel Riley clothes, however, as she insists on high standards of manufacture whether the goods are made in China, Europe or the UK. “I know about pattern cutting and how to sew, and we make sure that all the details are appropriate, such as French seams, piping, cotton linings on dresses, embellishments like smocking and intarsia patterns on knitwear.” Google’s description of the Marylebone shop is “Upscale boutique selling hand-crafted clothes with vintage designs, for children and women”. This is accurate, but “upscale” is a relative term. The starting retail price for a Rachel Riley dress is £39, polo shirts are £32 and a smocked shirt is £85. Dresses do rise to around £120, which might be expensive for a high-street chain, but they do not sell the individual designs or quality of Rachel Riley. “Despite the currency implications of Brexit, we are not planning to change our opening price points. People think of us as a value-for-money brand and we want to maintain that,” Rachel insists. APRIL 2017
Having started out as a mail order supplier, it is perhaps not surprising that Rachel Riley started a transactional website as early as 1998. With payment possible in sterling and US dollars, the online business contributes 25% of the company’s total, with most sales coming from UK-based customers. Despite her unusual route to independent retailing, Rachel takes inspiration from both sets of grandparents. Her maternal ones ran a sweetshop in Margate, Kent, while her paternal set operated three different shops in Birmingham – a newsagent’s, a dry cleaner’s and a toy shop. While her first love is designing and making clothes, she is seen on the shopfloor of the colourful Marylebone High Street store and is in no doubt of the value of having a physical store for the continuing development of the website and the wholesale side. “I hope we are recognised for offering goodold fashioned service. Like any good independent retailer, the success of our shops is all about having the right mix of product and the right price,” Rachel says. “It’s very satisfying looking after customers’ needs and selling them what they are looking for. And you get undiluted feedback immediately.” Like plenty of other indie shopkeepers, however, Rachel is feeling under pressure: “A real challenge for us is the rising cost of running a
shop in central London. In Marylebone we are in a lovely, lively high street, but the rent on the shop has more than tripled during the 15 years we have been here. Rates are going up too but it’s just not possible to increase sales to cover all these rises.” Despite the apparently specialist nature pf her business, Rachel has plenty of competitors right on her doorstep in Marylebone, such as the French premium childrenswear brands Petit Bateau and Bonpoint. Where the current pressure might lead her remains to be seen, but in 2015 she closed her shop in New York City after 10 years when the lease expired. Her strategy for 2017 is threefold: to grow ecommerce, to increase her wholesale business in UK (“I sometimes think we are one of the best-kept secrets in British childrenswear”) and to maximise international opportunities, including appointing new distributors in Japan and South Korea recently. She stresses that kidswear is not child’s play: “I started my business in a relatively low-risk manner and I continue to be cautious. We have built things up on firm foundations. With fashion, it’s easy to think that things have to be pink and fluffy, but cashflow always is king. On many fronts, 2016 was a year of change at home and in the world, so we intend to keep strong as we are heading into choppy waters.”
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Oxford Summer School
Time to think differently Delegates at this year’s Masters Programme share their Oxford Summer School experiences THE INDEPENDENT RETAILERS attending this year’s Oxford Summer School Masters programme joined delegates from B&Q, Nike and Marks & Spencer at the Saïd Business School. Here some of the indies who attended the week-long intensive retail management training course share their experiences on what is described as “the programme that gets you thinking differently”. Neil Park, ecommerce and digital communications manager from Jarrolds department store in Norwich, described the OSS Masters programme as “stimulating, intense, thoughtprovoking and rewarding.” Neil attended through a 50% scholarship from retailTRUST. “I was daunted at working with peers from multi-nationals, but I needn’t have been. Everyone came with their own skills and experiences and I speak for all the delegates when I say the challenge of being out of our normal store environment and on the edge of our comfort zone allowed us to stretch ourselves. “It was an opportunity to listen to experts from the world of retail, leaders who have been there and done that. But to hear from the other delegates who have all had different experiences was just as rewarding as the fantastic speakers. “We had to present two projects to the group and a panel of senior business leaders. This was probably the most rewarding session of
Seat of learning Where: Saïd Business School, Oxford When: 27 February – 2 March 2017 Who: 34 senior retail managers When’s the next one: Bookings are now being taken for the 2018 programme See oxfordsummerschool.co.uk for more information
APRIL 2017
the whole week. In a short time, we’d become a team, learned about an area of retail we had limited knowledge of, and had built a presentation around it. Wow, what a challenge but what a sense of achievement when we all pulled together to create our strategic innovative proposition. “On my return from the Masters I was asked to present to the board at Jarrolds, but trying to distil nearly a week’s worth of notes into my top highlights was near impossible. I’m now more aware of the future of retail and I have come back to the store brimming with ideas, enthusiasm and an experience which will stay with me for a long time.” Monika Curry, co-owner of Bodenhams, a fashion retailer in Ludlow, started thinking differently about her employees following the OSS Masters course - and it couldn’t have come at a better time. Monika also attended with a 50% retailTRUST scholarship. “As our year-end is approaching, I need to do my employees’ reviews. So it was very inspiring hearing from Mark Wright, managing director for digital at Jack Wills, and Mike Hawes, vicepresident of global organisational development for Avis Budget Group, who discussed co-creating your business strategy with your employees. “With our budgets being constantly squeezed, we don’t have a lot left in the pot to give our staff the wages that they deserve. Learning to engage and reward them in other ways will be one of the biggest lessons I took away with me. It was a good reminder that our business is only as good as the people in it. “The final challenge where we had to pitch
bira members at the OSS Masters: John Mayze (Rightway), Neil Park (Jarrolds), Dan Ebdon (Pextons), Tracey Nicholls (Nicholls of Crickhowell), Monika Curry (Bodenhams)
our team’s business strategy was excellent and I felt equipped to give a really good input. It took a while to find my feet at the start as I hadn’t been used to the speed at which other businesses work nor to getting my views across, other than to my own employees, but by the end of the week I felt like I was pushed out of my comfort zone in the best possible way and able to hold my own.” Dan Ebdon, owner of Pextons Hardware in York, was on the cover of this magazine in March. He attended with a scholarship from the National Institute of Hardware and was apprehensive about how the programme would be. “I wasn’t sure what to expect. There were people from different business areas and from different organisational structures, so it was great to be able to hear what sort of challenges they’re facing and how they’re tackling them. “It’s interesting because, in theory, I have total control over making changes within my business, based on my learnings from the Masters, but perhaps not the time, manpower or budget to do it. “Some of the other delegates, however, may have slightly less ultimate authority, but perhaps more in the way of a budget available to make things happen. “My main ‘take home’ was all about putting the customer back at the centre of the business. It sounds obvious relaying it now but it was explained and broached to us in a very dynamic way. It got us all thinking about the issue and how we could implement a change within our own organisations. I’m planning to train staff on helping customers through our small and ram-packed unit, for example, as I think we can do more to help them navigate the shop.”
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APRIL 2017
Health and safety
Protecting your customers Shops can be dangerous places for staff and customers. Don’t leave safety to chance, warns bira legal advisor Ellis Whittam IT MIGHT NOT be retailers’ favourite part of owning their own business. In fact, it might be their least favourite, but terrifying recent cases have bought health and safety to the forefront of shopkeepers’ attention. Topshop recently recalled queue barriers from 400 stores after a 10-year-old boy was killed when one fell and crushed him at its Reading branch. Hugo Boss was fined £1.2m after a 7ft free-standing mirror toppled and killed a 4-year-old boy at its Bicester Village discount store in 2013. Business owners, under the Health and Safety at Work Act, Section 3, are required to protect their customers, so it is important to know what the responsibilities are, what the hazards might be, and how to manage them. Retailers also have a duty of care to customers under civil law, which is where compensation claims arise. bira member Anne Ness from Houseproud of Morningside in Edinburgh says the health and safety of her customers is taken very seriously. She makes sure her staff are fully onboard with managing health and safety. “Keeping customers safe is relatively straight forward. Their small children, however, are the ones we usually need to keep a close eye on. Parents believe they can just let children loose for a run around. Another bug bear is the number of parents who allow their children to use scooters in the shop. Eh no, I think not! They don’t take kindly to being asked to stop this. We have lots of hooks and prongs projecting from slat walls and they could take someone’s eye out if safety is not managed,” says Anne. Even simple tasks like vacuuming pose a risk at the Morningside shop, which sells a lM embers have access to a webinar on health and safety from Ellis Whittam in the Member’s Area of bira.co.uk/ services/bira-legal/ lF or advice on health and safety, call 0345 450 0937 or email bira@elliswhittam.com lU pgrade to the one2one service for more hands-on support by calling 01244 688 454 lP lease have your membership number ready when you call.
APRIL 2017
range of housewares, hardware, gardening and cookware. Anne comments: “A customer calls and the vacuum gets abandoned in the middle of the floor where customers and staff could trip over it. Our staff are all trained in health and safety, however. I take no prisoners. If safety is being ignored or compromised, then there will be a conversation with whoever is concerned. “We use stepladders in the shop as we have some stock on our top shelf. All our staff are trained in stepladder use. We have had to put ‘Staff Use Only’ notices on them. It is amazing what customers think they can do to reach something. All our ladders are inspected every three months for defects.” While trips and slips are the most likely hazards in-store, Anne says fire safety is also a key consideration: “We have several smoke alarms located throughout the building. These are ordinary battery-operated ones, not linked to any sophisticated system. They are tested once a month and batteries changed as necessary. “We have whistles as an alarm to alert customers and staff to a fire evacuation. We have never had to use this on customers but we do test staff now and again. Our fire extinguishers are inspected annually to receive a certificate of maintenance. Our staff are trained in fire safety, learning the differences in the various fire extinguishers and how to avoid fires in the first place.” Adds Anne: “We have one fully-trained first aider and one emergency first aider in our team. Our first aid box is fully equipped and checked each month as part of our schedule. .” As a bira member, Anne uses bira legal, the service provided by Ellis Whittam, the legal expert in employment law, HR and health and safety. Anne has upgraded to the one2one health and safety service to give her complete peace of mind. “Over the years, Ellis Whittam has brought certain things to my attention, which I have accordingly addressed. One suggestion that our first consultant put forward was the use of Day-Glo tape in our basements. It’s there to highlight the pathway for escape during a power cut. I have added to this by installing a collection of hanging mini-torches, whose locations are highlighted with a ‘T’ in the DayGlo tape. Checking the torches is part of our monthly maintenance schedule,” says Anne.
Anne Ness in Edinburgh
“takes no prisoners” when
it comes to health & safety
bira legal’s advice Assess the location of display stands and other shop furniture that could fall over. Ensure that they are secured to the fabric of the building, or where this is not possible, secured by weighing them down. Check them by doing a “topple test”. Ensure staff are provided with health and safety training, and that they are aware of their responsibilities for their own, colleagues’ and customers’ safety. Display clear signs at the entrance that scooters, skateboards, roller skates, etc are not allowed in the shop. This makes it easier when customers are approached about this. Equipment such as vacuum cleaners, stepladders, cleaning materials, mops, buckets and so on should never be left unattended in the public area of the shop. Avoid using the equipment when the premises are open. Keep barriers and warning signs in place until the floor is completely dry after mopping, but remember to remove them once the floor has dried out so that they do not become a trip hazard. Provide staff with fire warden/marshal training, so that they can confidently and assertively direct customers to the nearest safe exit in case of an emergency. Assertive directions from staff are vital to get customers moving. Checking and maintaining your emergency equipment, such as alarms, extinguishers, fire exits and emergency lighting arrangements, are not only potentially lifesaving, it is also a legal requirement. Keep accurate records of all the tests, checks, servicing and maintenance.
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Product news April PRESERVATION AT THE PUSH OF A BUTTON
COOK MORE AND THE PAN COMES BETTER
The new vacuum release preservation jar collection by Progress will keep all favourite cupboard foods fresher for longer. Simply fill the container, and at the push of a button, remove the air to preserve and store – it’s that easy. The jars come in a variety of sizes.
The more it is used, the better the Salter Pre-seasoned Pan for Life range becomes. This chemical-free selection takes professional black steel cookware to the everyday consumer. 0161 934 2283 sales@upgs.com saltercookshop.com
0161 934 2283 sales@upgs.com progresscookshop.com
VERSATILE VITREOUS ENAMEL FROM RUSSELL HOBBS This Russell Hobbs roasting range, made from highly durable but lightweight vitreous enamel, is designed for easy and simple cooking. The pieces can be used daily for most foods, including vegetables, poultry and lamb. The various shapes can withstand oven temperatures up to 230C/Gas Mark 8 and are easy to clean. 0161 934 2283 homewares.russellhobbs.com
SAFETY ON A KNIFE EDGE This Progress 5-piece set has all the knives a domestic kitchen could need. The unique Secure Bloc reliably locks and releases knives for a safe means of storage. 0161 934 2283 sales@upgs.com progresscookshop.com
SALTER’S MEGASTONE WILL STAND THE TEST OF TIME Born from the need for functional, durable cookware, Megastone is an innovative new coating from Salter. Hard and long-lasting, Megastone is 2-3 times stronger than popular marble and aluminum cookware and will stand the test of time. It can be used with metal utensils and will remain scratch-free. 0161 934 2283 sales@upgs.com saltercookshop.com
RUSSELL HOBBS INFINITY PRESEASONED PANS The chemical-free Russell Hobbs Pre-seasoned Pan range includes 20cm, 24cm & 28cm Fry Pans, a 26cm Griddle Pan, and a 28cm Wok. Made from carbon steel with an induction bottom base and a pressed stainless steel handle, there is no need to put these in the dishwasher, simply wipe clean and save the flavour. The range gets better the more it is used. 0161 934 2283 homewares.russellhobbs.com
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APRIL 2017
Want to sell to bira members? To discuss appearing on these pages, contact mutimedia sales executive Simone Adams on 0121 446 6688 or email her on simone.adams@bira.co.uk
GILES & POSNER JELLY SWEET MAKER
GILES & POSNER POPCORN MAKER
The Giles & Posner Jelly Sweet Maker enables gummy treats to be created at home. The set comprises a 40W electric melting pot, a sectioned tray and four silicone moulds in the shape of hearts, dummies, snakes and stars. The gelatine mix is melted in the pot, poured into the moulds and within 15-20 minutes the sweets are set. The pot has a simple on/off switch, while the non-slip feet keep the tray secure. The set makes 32 sweets at once and comes with 20 bags, which can be customised for friends and party guests.
It takes just six minutes to make fresh popcorn in this novelty appliance from Giles & Posner. One scoop of kernels and one cup of oil is measured out using the included tools, it cooks for 5-6 minutes, then the popcorn can be flipped over into the integrated bowl. With 800W power and a simple on/off switch, it is a fast, efficient and fuss-free way to make a snack, while the nonslip feet provide safety. The compact popcorn maker sits neatly on a table or can be tucked away for storage.
The Giles & Posner Bella Pizza Oven cooks pizzas up to 12 inches across in a unique way, replicating an authentic stone oven. Crispy restaurant-quality pizzas are produced every time thanks to smart heating technology and a removable hot stone, which absorbs any moisture. Variable temperature settings, reaching up to 390° F, allow for different styles of pizza to cooked in just five minutes. The set includes a Make Your Own Dough guide, pizza recipes, a pizza cutter and two aluminium pizza paddles.
0161 934 2283 sales@upgs.com
0161 934 2283 sales@upgs.com
0161 934 2283. sales@upgs.com
THE BELLA PIZZA OVEN
CONTEMPORARY COUNTERTOP COLLECTION This stylish steel-and-bamboo canister and bread bin collection from Progress will keep a kitchen tidy and organised. Each container has a bamboo and silicone lid, which keeps it airtight and secure while preserving the goods for longer. The range comes in contemporary neutral colours to suit any kitchen. 0161 934 2283 sales@upgs.com
HOT AND COLD REFRESHMENT The sleek Progress Thermal Flasks Drinks keep drinks at the perfect temperature for longer. Their insulation keeps juice, smoothies, water, wine, cocktails and beer cold for up to 24 hours, and tea and coffee piping hot for up to six hours. They are ideal for the commute, picnics, festivals or anywhere refreshment is needed on the move. 0161 934 2283 sales@upgs.com
APRIL 2017
RUSSELL HOBBS ROUND SENSOR BINS
DÉCOR HOMEWARES RANGE LAUNCHED IN THE UK
Simply wave your hand over the new Russell Hobbs 40L Round Sensor Bin and the lid automatically opens. With no need for contact, the system makes scraping plates cleaner and simpler, and waste disposal more hygienic. Emptying the bag is hassle-free with its easyto-remove lid. The Sensor Bin is available in stainless steel, black, white and red finishes.
About 450 products are included in the range of Décor, an Australian homewares company targeting the UK via Cheshire-based Scott Brothers, the leading distributor of household storage products. From oven dishes to drink bottles, from lunch boxes to storage, the products are described as “beautiful, functional, affordable and made to last”. A recent innovation is the Thermostone stoneware baking range, which won Ambiente’s Design Award for 2016. Designed to take meals straight from the oven to the table for serving, its unique Realseal lid creates an air-tight seal allowing meals to be served, stored, reheated and taken on-thego with ease.
0161 934 2283 sales@upgs.com homewares.russellhobbs. com
01477 539500 enquiries@scottbrothersltd.co.uk
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Product news April ENVIROMESH PROTECTS AGAINST PESTS Laid over transplants at planting or seeds at sowing, Enviromesh excludes almost all pests from crops. Birds, rabbits, caterpillars, carrot fly and most aphid species are kept off vegetables and plants without the need for insecticides. Distributed by Agralan, Enviromesh does not tear, blow away or get dirty like fleece, and should last at least 10 years. Air, light and water pass through freely and plants grow better due to the improved microclimate. There are a range of pack sizes. 01285 860015 sales@agralan.co.uk agralan.co.uk
MAKE OUTDOOR CLEANING EASY WITH PATIO MAGIC! Cleaning patios, driveways, paths and even walls is made easy with Patio Magic! This dynamic hard-surface cleaner kills and controls green mould, algae and lichens. Scrubbing is unnecessary - just apply it and it does all the hard work. Now, thanks to the readyto-use Power Sprayer, there is no need even to dilute it. Also suitable for use on greenhouse or conservatory glass and garden furniture, Patio Magic! – which includes benzalkonium chloride - gives visible results in 2-4 days and keeps working during the following weeks. It is available through Stax Trade Centres. lovethegarden.com 01276 401300
QUICK & EASY COMPOSTING WITH DRAPER TOOLS
KEEPING THE BBQ AREA NEAT AND TIDY
BIG K LIGHTS UP THE BBQ MARKET
A new BBQ mat is the latest addition to the outdoor range from JVL. With the BBQ season on its way, the mat is designed to stop unwanted burns or spillages damaging the patio or decking area. A pack of 24 comes with a free-standing display unit to promote them in store. JVL, one of the UK’s leading suppliers and distributors of household products, offers more than 170 mats and runners, from outdoor coirs and indoor machine-washable options through to commercial entrances. The outdoor range, which includes the BBQ mat, has designs including vintage, contemporary, retro and traditional.
Drawing on more than 40 years’ experience for its new Instant Light Charcoal, Big K has developed a close control mechanism for dipping the charcoal in a lighting agent, which results in a very reliable product that lights every time. Also new is the Big K Disposable Instant BBQ, which is bigger than most on the market, offering a more reliable and longer-lasting option. Added to the range for 2017 is a pack of 30cm-long flat Bamboo Skewers, which help prevent food from spinning when the skewer is rotated. From its base in Stoke Ferry, Norfolk, Big K can deliver anywhere in the country to a 5-day lead time.
Quote BBQM17 on 01422 888 555 telesales@jvl.co.uk
01366 501 485 bigk.co.uk
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The Draper Tools 210L Compost Tumbler (17986) provides self-sustainable, nutrient-rich compost. Loading the barrel and turning it every few days is a fast and easy way to create compost. Built-in breaker bars mix and aerate decaying material, speeding up the compost production. The dual-chamber design enables one chamber to be filled, while the other is composting, delivering a continuous cycle of fertiliser. Made from robust polypropylene with a tubular steel frame, the Tumbler is sturdy, weatherproof and UVprotected, enabling year-round composting. www.drapertools.com
APRIL 2017
Want to sell to bira members?
To discuss appearing on these pages, contact mutimedia sales executive Simone Adams on 0121 446 6688 or email her on simone.adams@bira.co.uk
BEATING THE GARDEN BURG-LAR
GUARDING THE GARDEN GATE
KEYMIND YOUR OWN BUSINESS
Sterling’s Combination Locking Bolt (CLB110BK) comprises a strong, corrosion-resistant zinc diecast body with chrome-plated steel bolt. Supplied with anti-tamper security screws, the bolt can be fixed easily either vertically or horizontally. The bolt can be locked in both the open and closed position with the resettable combination. Retailing at around £11 inc VAT, it is ideal for using in many outside situations.
The 4-digit combination on Sterling’s Keyminder range gives 10,000 options for this discreet security device that ensures spare keys are always available to the right person. The large dials make the combination lock easy to operate while the strong curved body makes the Keyminders difficult to break into. These simple, low-tech solutions to a common need retail for around £20-£30 inc VAT.
From barbecues and patio furniture, to gardening and leisure equipment, items left in and around the garden can be a prime target for thieves. Available in sizes from 20mm to 50mm, BurgWächter’s 460 Yacht padlock has a solid brass body and stainless steel shackle (double bolted from 30mm upwards), while the rustproof interior makes it ideal for outside use. Teaming this padlock with a Burg-Wächter double-loop security cable allows customers to leave their furniture locked together in the garden, shed or garage. The 460 Yacht padlock, which sells for between £7 and £19, also works with Burg-Wächter’s weatherproof hasps and staples to secure sheds and gates.
01274 395333 sterlinglocks.com
01274 395333 sterlinglocks.com www.sterlinglocks.com
01274 395333 sterlinglocks.com
BELDRAY DELUXE 18M AIRER This Beldray Deluxe airer boasts an impressive 18m of drying capacity. Freshly-cleaned clothes can be dried naturally outside in the sun or in a laundry room on a rainy day using this apparatus. With the tumble dryer unused, money is saved and the environment protected. The airer easily folds flat for convenient, compact storage.
ABUS SECURITY GETS SMART The ABUS SmartVest Alarm and Smart Home system integrates the security specialist’s alarm package with its CCTV programme. The ‘smart’ out-of-the-box alarm kit combines an advanced easy-to-use app, making the system secure, ultra-convenient and intuitive. SmartVest benefits include: simple installation thanks to step-by-step plug-and-play advice videos; intuitive operation via smartphone, tablet or wireless remote control; alarm, video, baby care and smart functions in one system, from a single app; add-on flexibility thanks to a range of wireless components that can be individually combined and expanded. The ABUS SmartVest kit is available at a promotional RRP of £234.62 + VAT. 0117 204 7000 sales@abus-uk. com abus.com APRIL 2017
0161 934 2283 sales@upgs.com beldray.com
INNOVATION IN VACUUM STORAGE FROM PACKMATE A poor seal results in a vacuum storage bag that does not stay compressed. When the PackMate vacuum storage bag is sealed correctly, the zip turns from yellow to green. Made with a deeper profile to make the slider more secure and with a more robust sealing mechanism, the PackMate’s zip brings an enhanced quality to the vacuum bag market. Duncan Pratt-Thompson, MD at PackMate, says: “This innovation will help customers to use the vacuum bags much more effectively and for longer.” 01477 539500 scottbrothersltd.co.uk
A CLOSE THING To comply with legislation, fire doors must be self-closing. An extensive range of door closers has been introduced by ABUS UK to ensure fire doors, entrance doors, front doors and internal doors shut quietly and
securely. All ABUS top-fitting door closers are easy to install and are suitable for almost any door size and design. Options, ranging in size, strength and complexity, include the AC4223 (RRP £30 ex VAT), AC7023 (£60), AC7124 (£85) and AC7303 (£105). 0117 204 7000 sales@abus-uk.com abus.com
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APRIL 2017
Counterpoint / Mrs Slocombe
Stores cannot be showrooms The mutually profitable relationship between independent department stores and brands is rapidly being strained by online sales, warns our new correspondent Mrs Slocombe I HAD, UNTIL recently and for many years previously, been using the well-known adage that brands cannot exist without retailers and retailers cannot exist without brands. Back in those heady, straightforward days of the pre-digital world, we would identify brands for our store. After a bit of wooing and dancing around each other for terms, we would end up with a relationship that was at best mutually profitable and would continue to grow for years, or at worst would leave both brand and retailer a little bruised but not significantly damaged during the separation. Nowadays, of course, the goalposts have changed. In fact, often there aren’t really goalposts at all. Our teams work as hard as ever to identify and entice in brands that suit our target profile. We are delighted when new suppliers choose to join us and for a while we bask in the glow of increased footfall and sales. But bringing in a new brand doesn’t guarantee consumer loyalty to the store any more. Not one bit! Increasingly certain brands are using their retail partners as a means of recruiting the customers to visit their own websites. We have recently begun to monitor across all our major brands their email campaigns that recruit customers in our store. If you are not already doing so, I suggest you get going.
APRIL 2017
As an example, we were thrilled to welcome a major new beauty brand a few months ago and have been delighted by the additional footfall. Sales so far are on target. However, in our excitement we had not noticed that with each purchase every customer was being encouraged to register their email address. What a great way of communicating this brand’s essence, its new launches, and to drive customers back into our store we initially thought. But there is one problem: this brand sends emails out every two or three days and, yes, the information is appealing and, yes, it’s telling the customer about new product. But in every email it encourages the customer to shop online. And only online. There is no mention of us, the exclusive local stockist. There are even special offers and free delivery to encourage a new online shopping habit to develop. It turns out there are many other brands trading with us that are taking the same approach… As accessing city centres becomes more difficult and expensive, while online marketing campaigns become ever more sophisticated and targeted, so we independent retailers miss out on the full benefits of housing most brands. As we store owners continue to invest more and more in creating alluring shopping environments, we cannot allow brands to treat
us as shop windows for their websites. The maths just do not add up! And most brands, if challenged, would admit that they do still want to have quality retail partners to house their products, particularly when conventional advertising routes are becoming less valid. The time has come for all multi-brand retailers to prevent brands from recruiting customers to their own websites via our stores. Brands should only be allowed to send emails that are targeted at driving footfall back into the local store. That is it. Simple! Are you up for making that demand on your key brands too? Otherwise in 10 years’ time we might not have enough customers in our stores, unless we can find a way to pay the rent by becoming one big restaurant and beauty salon.
Have your say Would you like to share your views and experiences with the bira community? We welcome contributions like Mrs Slocombe’s. You can write under your own name or under a pseudonym. If you are interested, please email editorial@bira.co.uk
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APRIL 2017
bira notices
bira members are urged to apply for scholarships to the Oxford Summer School The membership magazine of the British Independent Retailers Association Published 10 times a year by bira publishing Editor Eric Musgrave 07702 628848 eric@ericmusgrave.co.uk Design Alan Bingle 07949 024737 alan@forty6design.com Multimedia sales executive Simone Adams 01295 713329 simone.adams@bira.co.uk Publishing director Sarah Golden 0121 446 6888 sarah.golden@bira.co.uk All advertising and editorial enquiries editorial@bira.co.uk
Unparalleled retail management training
Printed by Buxton Press bira, 225 Bristol Road, Edgbaston, Birmingham B5 7UB Tel 0121 446 6688 Fax 0121 446 5215 www.bira.co.uk bira national president 2016-17 Vin Vara, Tool Shop, London CEO Alan Hawkins Finance director John Collins Marketing, membership & publishing director Sarah Golden Commercial director Jeff Moody Professional services & special projects director Bob Jarrett bira membership magazine incorporates bira alert, Hardware Today, Cookshop, Housewares & Tabletop and Pet Product Focus. If you would like to reproduce anything from bira member magazine, please contact the editorial team for permission. While every effort is made to ensure the accuracy of the material we publish, bira publishing cannot accept legal liability for any errors or omissions, nor can they accept responsibility for claims made by advertisers or contributors. Unless specifically stated, goods or services mentioned are not formally endorsed by bira. Views of the contributors are not necessarily those of bira. All rights reserved. © 2017
SINCE 1923 OVER 19,000 RETAILERS have benefited from attending the long-established Oxford Summer School (OSS) and bira members are among those who have taken part in these unique programmes. bira members benefit from 25% discount on delegate fees for the OSS. In addition they can apply for scholarships funded by the OSS’s headline partner, retailTRUST. There are six fullyfunded and six part-funded scholarships at each of the three core OSS residential programmes. bira members are encouraged to attend; at the recent OSS Masters programme nearly a quarter (23%) of attendees were from independent businesses, learning alongside delegates from national and international businesses. Applications are now being taken for the scholarships for both the Foundation and Academy courses. FOUNDATION: 26-30 JUNE, ST HUGH’S COLLEGE, OXFORD Deadline for scholarship applications: 28 April. This year’s speakers include Danny Barrasso, managing director UK & Ireland for New Look, Sara Jones, operations director at centre management company Capital & Regional, and Jane Leadbetter, learning & development manager at outlets operator McArthurGlen.
The Foundation programme enables retail managers to gain a better understanding of their role within the business and assists them in developing the vital skills required to ensure their team delivers to the organisation’s standards, targets and expectations. ACADEMY: 19-25 AUGUST, KEBLE COLLEGE, OXFORD Deadline for scholarship applications: 26 May The Academy focuses on enhancing the delegates’ understanding and management of five key retail resources; people, money, merchandise, marketing and retail channels. Managers attending the programme will develop their own performance, the performance of their team and their ability to positively influence commercial performance. This year the speakers will include: Amee Chande, managing director for global strategy & operations at the China-based Alibaba Group, the biggest retailer in the world; Helen Dickinson, chief executive of the British Retail Consortium; and John Browett, chief executive at Dunelm Group, the national home furnishing chain.
FIND OUT MORE
To apply for a retailTRUST scholarship, visit http://bit.ly/2kWElLs. To find out more about OSS visit, oxfordsummerschool.co.uk
We welcome our latest new members
Aaron Gale, Chippenham, Wiltshire; Fairy Sparkle Cleaning, Stalybridge, Cheshire; First 4 Uniform, Worthing, Sussex; Forth Grass Machinery, Dunfermline, Fife; Fortuny London, Teddington, Middlesex; Greenwich Baby, London; Kiddiroo, Preston, Lancashire; Maharanis, Bradford, Yorkshire; Mark Duesbury Cars, Chesterfield, Derbyshire; Maydown Electrics, Maydown, County Londonderry; Sheaf Street Health Store, Daventry, Northamptonshire; The Tool Market, Tipton, West Midlands; Vale Hardware, St Leonards-on-Sea, East Sussex; Vape Sage, Reading, Berkshire; Wardrobe at No.4, Berwick-upon-Tweed, Northumberland.
APRIL 2017
31
Q The last word
Shaun Higgs THE SHEAF STREET HEALTH STORE, DAVENTRY
MOST INDEPENDENT SHOPS are a hub for the local community, but that is truer than ever with health food stores, says Shaun Higgs. A new bira member, he has taken to retailing like a duck to water with The Sheaf Street Health Store in Daventry, Northants.
Q
You are the public face of the store, but it is a family business, isn’t it? My wife Cheryl Thallon (inset) has worked in the health food industry since she was a teenager. After a stint in journalism, she built a career with senior roles in major suppliers until 1999 when she founded her own business, Viridian Nutrition, which distributes high-grade food supplements to about 850 independent specialist health food shops in the UK and Ireland. Cheryl and I went out together in the mid1980s, when she was a journalist and I worked in marketing. We lost contact for 18 years until we reconnected via social media. We’ve been married for 10 years now.
Q
Is the store part of Viridian? No, the two are completely separate entities even though Viridian Nutrition, which employs about 30 people, is based in Daventry. Cheryl and I simply wanted to have a good health food store on our doorstep, and so we just decided to open a retail business ourselves. Our unit in Sheaf Street used to be a menswear store run by Peter Harper. Luckily for us, he was looking to retire, so we acquired the unit in June 2016 and opened in September after having the place completely pared back and remodelled. Cheryl and I are partners in the business, but I run it. It‘s my first experience of retailing and I love it. Luckily my assistant manager Louise Higgs - who is no relation despite her surname - has lots of experience working for national chains like Thorntons and I’ve been learning from her. In total we have two full-timers and three part-timers.
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Q
It’s an impressive size for a first unit We have 1,800sq ft on the ground floor and another 750sq ft upstairs, which, apart from a small office, we use as a studio space and area for health practitioners. We wanted a very open and light store so we took it back to the walls. From the front door you can look through to the back door. There are a couple of steps in the middle of the floor, so we added a sweeping ramp to make it all completely accessible for every customer.
Personally speaking Main pastime: Working at the store, and training for Ironman events. Favourite food: Anything vegetarian and fresh, but with lots of flavour. Favourite drink: Guinness – it’s good for you, after all! Favourite product in your store: After Viridian, of course, I love the Bengal Spice tea. It’s a taste sensation. Best holiday: Our honeymoon in Cork and Kerry, Ireland. It rained every day but we didn’t mind. Greatest achievement: Completing my first Ironman event in 2016. Best bit of advice ever received: From my mum: “Work hard, be kind, and be grateful”. Business hero: My wife. She’s just so passionate and committed to everything she does. And she wakes up smiling every day. The Sheaf Street Health Store, 20 Sheaf Street, Daventry, Northants NN11 4AB www.sheafstreethealthstore.com www.viridian-nutrition.com www.findahealthstore.com Sheaf Street Health Store
What is the product mix? It is quite a selection. In addition to a huge range of organic, natural and free-from foods, we sell vitamins, minerals, herbal remedies, sports nutrition, aromatherapy, body care ranges, lots of organic and vegan lines, ethically-sourced homewares, books on cooking and nutrition, a range of natural candles, lots of different teas and, naturally, the full selection of Viridian Nutrition supplements! At the back half of the store, we sell frozen and chilled and we have a very popular bakery section. Unusually for a health food store, we have a fully-fitted demonstration kitchen where we can show customers how to prepare some of the less well-known ingredients we sell. One of our most successful promotional events so far, with more than 80 guests, was a demonstration by Oliver McCabe, the Irish chef known for his Fuel Food Cookbook. Another talk by nutritionist and best-selling author Patrick Holford was also a huge success and has helped put us on the map.
Q
Why is the store a community focus? In a nutshell, I want people to get and stay well by eating better, perhaps taking nutritional supplements, and taking responsibility for their health. The best health food stores truly care about their customers, literally taking them by the hand, giving them the personal advice they need for themselves and their families. People have medical conditions, intolerances and allergies that we can help with, so it’s a particularly bespoke service. Additionally the store has become a centre for similarly-minded people locally, whether they are involved in ecological issues, animal rights, alternative therapies, serious sports and so on. Our upstairs space hosts yoga and Pilates sessions, and shiatsu and reiki practitioners. Further community support includes our sponsoring the Daventry Triathlon, and a kids’ Tae Kwon Do event. During the winter months, we have a clothes rail outside where people can leave unwanted coats - or pick one up for free if they need it.
Q
What’s next? I am planning to start doing teas, coffees, soup and cakes from the kitchen – we’ve just been asked so often, it seems silly not to. On a wider point, we want to share this retail experience as an inspiration for other new health food stores around the country. A lot of independent shops closed after the 2008 financial crisis, but new ones are starting to appear. We want to help them succeed. APRIL 2017
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