Photo: Tim Johnson
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n October 16, 1989 Cape Air flew our first scheduled flight, with our first paying customers from the seaside town of Provincetown on the tip of Cape Cod to Boston’s Logan International Airport. The mind reels at how much the world has changed in a quarter of a century, especially as it applies to the airline industry. When we began, there was no internet, and few computers. Our flights were booked over the phone and the names were faxed to the ticket counters. Boarding passes were brightly colored plastic pieces, and passengers went directly from the ticket counter to the plane with no security line. The request to, “Please turn off your cell phones,” was never heard. Oh, how times change. In our first full year we flew 6,000 passengers. In 2014 that number stands at approximately 800,000 passengers. Unquestionably, our success and growth is due to the dedication, smarts and hard work of our Cape Air team which has grown to more than 1,200 strong, many of whom have been with us for over a decade. And of course, none of our success would be possible without the long time loyalty and support of so many of you. We thank you for your business and look forward to continuing this amazing journey over the next twenty-five years. One can only imagine what changes are in store for us and for our industry. We are in the process of launching our new passenger service system, Amadeus, which offers a number of enhanced features that will help in our company‘s evolution for decades to come. We are working with aircraft manufacturers in the design and production of our next generation of aircraft and many of the design modifications are a direct result of your input. Our new aircraft will provide an enhanced experience for our existing communities while allowing us to pursue new opportunities around the world. Being back in the cockpit this summer has been a true blessing for me and I have every hope and expectation that 25 years from now at the spry age of 81 I will be just as enthusiastic to meet you in the cockpit and fly you to one of our beautiful destinations.
CEO and MA State Senator Dan Wolf Dan.Wolf@capeair.com
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Dan Wolf, a Summer sunset in Martha’s Vineyard
Be happy in your work, Cape Air’s first Reservations Office, 1989
*Make our customers happy and have a good time doing it.
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Thunder Hole, Acadia National Park, Bar Harbor, Maine PUBLISHER: Dan Wolf EXECUTIVE EDITOR: Michelle Haynes Michelle.Haynes@capeair.com CONTRIBUTORS: Fred Biddle, Sally Brophy, Peter A. Morrison, Ann Murphy, Kelly Thompson, Susan Zaluski COPY EDITOR: Jim Hanson DESIGN & PRODUCTION: www.ChuckAnzalone.com graphicsgroup@comcast.net © Bird’s Eye View, 2014 Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited. Advertising rates are available upon request. 410.829.1101
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Photo: Sue Anne Hodges
10 Maine
OUR TEAM: Kim Corkran Kimberly.Corkran@capeair.com
52 Nantucket
Rosemary Dooley 508.274.6755
74 Martha’s Vineyard
Bobbi Fawcett doitnow141@gmail.com
82 Provincetown
Nancy Woods birdseyeviewmagazine@gmail.com
90 Cape Cod 96 Rhode Island
Bird’s Eye View is published by Cape Air, 660 Barnstable Road Hyannis, MA, 02601
106 Vermont/NH 112 New York
Cover Photo: Hope, Maine by Amy Wilton Photography Montana Cover: Swords Rimrock Park Trail Photo courtesy of the Billings, Montana Convention and Visitors Bureau
116 Missouri 120 Montana Midwest Cover: Courtesy of the U.S. Army installation at Fort Leonard Wood
121 Caribbean
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Photo: Julie Almand, Courtesy of Anderson Publishing Cover of Nantucket Phone Book 2014
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The Larrabee Family – three generations of cranberry growers – Nick, Tom Sr. and Tom Jr. Photo: Ann Murphy
e have all seen the TV commercials – two guys, waist deep in the cranberry bog. For some reason they always make me smile, which is why I did a double take with the cover of the Nantucket phone book. (Yes, I still use one.) Kudos to Nantucket publisher Deborah Anderson for the homage to the island’s first family of cranberry growers, the Larrabees. For over sixty years the family has managed the bogs, supplying many a Thanksgiving table with their home grown berries. In this issue meet Tom Larrabee and plan your island visit around the upcoming Cranberry Festival for some good old-fashioned fun. More nostalgia with our story on Martha’s Vineyard and a fascinating new coffee table book that is also a great read – Harbor View: The Hotel that Saved a Town. Some surprises with this story – you will learn that the rather elegant Edgartown of today bears little resemblance to what existed at the turn of the last century. Mother Nature’s greatest show is now happening in the Adirondacks and across New England. Do check out our leaf peeper extravaganza for where to go, stay, eat and play.
Tom Jr. at the bog at the Nantucket Conservation Foundation
As Veterans Day approaches we turn a spotlight on Cape Air’s military destination, Fort Leonard Wood, Missouri. Wherever you are that day, take a moment to show your appreciation to a veteran and say “Thank you for your service and your sacrifice.”
Michelle Haynes Executive Editor, Bird’s Eye View Michelle.Haynes@capeair.com Sports legends – Joe DiMaggio and John Havlicek in 1987 from “Harbor View – The Hotel that Saved a Town”
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Weekly charters aboard the Schooner Mystic Newpor t to Nantucket Naushon Island
•
•
• •
Newport Cuttyhunk Island
Martha’s Vineyard
•
Nantucket
MAY-SEPTEMBER 2015
stops at Cuttyhunk, Naushon Island, Block Island and Martha’s Vineyard Winter Caribbean charters Now reserving for
•
Block Island
DECEMBER-APRIL 2014/15
Escape in comfort
The ambiance and comfort of a brand new yacht and the romance of a tall ship on the high seas.
Family Reunions | Corporate Retreats | Adventure Cruises mysticadventuresails.com | 781.428.3720 | charters@mysticadventuresails.com
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It’s all about the pictures...Our sincere appreciation to our talented Bird’s Eye View family of photographers...
Amy Wilton – Maine amywiltonphotography.com
Peter Louderback – Nantucket peter@louderback.com
Rob Benchley – Nantucket
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Steve Simonsen – USVI stevesimonsen.com
Cary Hazlegrove – Nantucket hazlegrove.com
Greg Hinson – Nantucket nantucketstock.com
Malcolm Greenaway Block Island, Rhode Island malcolmgreenaway.com
Carol Latta – Maine amazingmaine.com
Ann Murphy – Nantucket amurphy@oneillandassoc.com
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Nicole Friedler Brisson Martha’s Vineyard nicolefriedler.com Todd VanSickle with Atlas, 6 and Aiko, 3 – British Virgin Islands landho22.wix.com/tvimages
Tim Johnson Photography Martha’s Vineyard tjtj@capecod.net
Sally Brophy – New England sallybrophy.com
Dan McKeon – Provincetown kalel344@gmail.com
Kelly Thompson – Vieques islasoldesign.com
Chuck Anzalone – New England ChuckAnzalone.com
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Alison Shaw — Martha’s Vineyard alisonshaw.com
Terry Pommett – Nantucket pommettphotography.com
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MAINE PHOTOGRAPHER
CAROL LATTA
SHARES IMAGES AND PATTER OF HER LIFE IN MAINE’S MID-COAST My experience trends towards tourists enjoying a getaway from the busy and high-end. It is all about the lighthouses and lobster boats. They like eating at a local lobster pound on a picnic table, picking up oysters at a crazy shack on North Haven, and hiking out to a lighthouse and watching traditional windjammers play chicken as they tack back and forth to the audience’s delight.
Curtis Island, Maine
Nadra Photography
@Amy Wilton
visitpointlookout.com ● 67 Atlantic Highway ● Northport, ME 800-515-3611 For special Cape Air offer mention Cape when booking
Mt. Battie, Camden, Maine
Younger guests hike Mt. Battie, bike the trails, kayak and paddle board the harbors. They love seeing the view of Curtis Island as it’s impossible to get a good look from land.
Nourish the RHEAL you. We offer holistic & advanced skin & body care…
Facials • Massage • Nails & more Shop with us…
We carry natural skin care & make-up lines.
Chess Face-Off, Rockport Harbor Park, Maine
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Call for an appointment: 207.594.5077 Conveniently located in downtown Rockland, at 453 Main St. Visit www.rhealdayspa.com for a complete list of services.
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P E N O B S C O T B AY, M A I N E
Photos: Carol Latta Nadra Photography
Meetings ● Weddings ● Reunions
Oreo cookie cows, Rockport, Maine
Who ever heard of ‘Oreo cookie’ cows grazing in a pasture that is a 10-minute walk from village and town retail districts? There are also the real and imagined sailors who indulge their artistic eyes at the beautiful classic wooden sailboats, lifting and dowsing, charging through to the next marker for a colorful finish. For the last 15 years we have participated in the Wooden Boats Eggemoggin Reach Regatta. Over 100 classic boats and 700 people join one of the biggest barbecues I have ever attended. On one recent evening, the sunset was so vibrant that the sky and water appeared to be on fire. With the setting sun, a full moon rose spontaneously, someone started howling at the moon and 699 people followed suit. That was a spectacular Maine moment.
Dancers and hipster jazz musicians thrill a local Vinalhaven crowd as they proceed to an art installation on Carver’s Harbor.
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Photos: Carol Latta Great Schooner Race, Rockland, Maine
ENJOY SAMPLES OF OUR AWARD WINNING, HAND-CRAFTED CHEESES AND BROWSE THE MARKETPLACE FOR THE BEST OF MAINE'S FOODS, WINES, BEERS AND SO MUCH MORE! “CREAMERY TOURS BY APPOINTMENT”
Pemaquid Point Glacier
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ROUTE 1, ROCKPORT 207-236-8895 OR 800-762-8895 OPEN YEAR ROUND OR VISIT US AT WWW.CHEESE-ME.COM
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KC AND THE SUNSHINE BAND AND THE INIMITABLE CHAKA KHAN–
KC and the Sunshine Band
Chaka Khan
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here are all kinds of ways to celebrate a wine harvest but Maine’s Cellar Door Winery has the right idea with a weekend of music, food and of course, the wine. VinFest 2014 Dessert & Concert – Friday night October 3, 8-11 pm Sweet delectables with a side of KC and the Sunshine Band happens under the tent in the vineyard at Lincolnville’s Cellar Door Winery in the Penobscot Bay region. VinFest 2014 Harvest Party – Saturday night October 4, 7-11 pm Same venue as Friday but this one features gourmet food stations and rocking out to Chaka (I’m Every Woman) Khan and Salt-N-Pepa. Tickets are $100 and include food, drinks, music and of course, the dancing that goes along with it. Bettina Doulton of Cellar Door Winery BrownPaperTickets.com.
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P E N O B S C O T B AY, M A I N E
How ‘bout a
with a room
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Perched at the edge of one of Maine’s most scenic harbors in the coastal village of Camden, the Grand Harbor Inn is a small and distinctive boutique hotel, and the only luxury, AAA 4-Diamond Waterfront Inn our area has to offer. Grand Harbor Inn’s uncompromising service, enviable oceanfront
Certificate of Excellence
location, and world-class amenities are what set us apart, providing the perfect haven for that needed escape or romantic getaway.
2014 WINNER
Call (877) 553-6997 | www.grandharborinn.com | 14 Bay View Landing | Camden, Maine
A trip to Paris and a visit to Claude Monet’s Giverny inspired Cellar Door Winery owner Bettina Doulton for this year’s Chaka Khan concert. “Beautiful reds and blues and water lilies. Our guests will be transported. You cannot fix the world but you can treat five hundred people to a wonderful experience.”
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Photo: Carol Latta
THE CAMDEN INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL – SEPTEMBER 25-28
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RECOGNIZED AS “ONE OF THE TOP 25 DOCUMENTARY FILM FESTIVALS IN THE WORLD” Photo: Camden Film Festival “What of the small-town festival that dreams a bit bigger, that caters to its specific community while also reaching out to the larger artistic one, that sees a festival not just as a chance to stoke the economy and throw a good party, but to contribute to the ongoing development of and conversation around the cinematic arts?” — Eric Hynes, FILM COMMENT magazine published by the Film Society of Lincoln Center
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oliage and films are the order of the day in Maine’s picturesque mid-coast area in the towns of Rockland, Camden, and Rockport, uniquely different towns all bordered by the sea and all, at this moment, bursting with color. Bustling Rockland is the mercantile center with a Main Street that is perfect for meandering, and in the midst of it all is the famed Farnsworth Art Museum, featuring America’s first family of artists, the Wyeths. Nearby Camden looks like it stepped out of a movie set and actually, it did, back in the 50’s when the town was the location shoot for the steamy Lana Turner drama, Peyton Place. If you are old enough to remember the film, pop into the Penobscot Bay Chamber of Commerce in Camden and pick up a Peyton Place movie location map.
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Photo: Camden Film Festival BWVAd_CapeAir_Fall2014_QtrPg_vfinal_Layout 1 7/10/14 2:33 PM Page 1
”Camden International Film Festival: An Autumnal Retreat for Documentary Lovers — Imagine Telluride. Except in Maine. In the fall. With foliage. And documentaries only. And without the Donner Partystyle travel arrangements ...” — John Anderson, indiwire.com
Many of the scenes have not changed a whit. The tiny hamlet of Rockport offers a ‘Kodak Moment’ around every corner, a backdrop for the Camden International Film Festival, offering provocative documentaries in a fall paradise. Nirvana for non-fiction film lovers, there are plenty of mix and mingle opportunities with the filmmakers at the screenings and receptions. The schedule for over seventy documentary films is at camdenfilmfest.org
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Another great reason to visit Maine. Wine Tastings: 35 Ash Point Dr ive, Owls Head 373 Main Street, Rockland www.breakwatervineyards.com (207) 594-1721
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P E N O B S C O T B AY, M A I N E
Be at the Festival in 65 minutes from Boston’s Logan International Airport with fares as low as $200 round trip. (Compare that with hours of driving and your gas pump stops.)
Do not leave the Penobscot Bay region without a visit to the renowned Farnsworth Museum, located in the heart of Rockland.
Andrew Wyeth, Young Fisherman and Dory, Study for To The Westward, 1944, drybrush on paper, 29¾” x 39¼”, museum purchase, 1954.906 © Andrew Wyeth Photo: Brian Vanden Brink
Pub Harborview Bakery Company Store Enjoy our Famous Clam Chowder Maine Seafood Specialties Fresh Maine Lobster Dinners Steaks • Burgers • Salads • Sandwiches Homemade Pies and Desserts From our Bakery
One Main Street Camden 207-236-2254 Open daily 11:00AM ‘til... Please call for winter hours Farnsworth Museum, Wyeth Center, Rockland, Maine
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Great Food Great Times Great Views
www.cappyschowder.com B I R D’S
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Country breakfast buffet included
Oceanfront Location Indoor Pool/Health Club
Indoor pool • Open all year
ON BEAUTIFUL PENOBSCOT BAY 1 BLOCK TO FARNSWORTH MUSEUM
PLENTY OF FREE PARKING LOUNGE & RESTAURANT • CONFERENCE FACILITIES
2 Park Drive • Rockland, ME 04841 800 834-3130 (reservations) (207) 596-6661 (207) 596-6492 fax 8 Country Inn Way • Rockport, ME 04856 • 207-236-2725
www.tradewindsmaine.com
HalfPage Summer 2014 Gold letters_Layout 1 7/28/2014 2:37 PM Page 1
CountryInnMaine.com
CAMDEN REAL ESTATE COMPANY
The finest properties on the Coast of Maine
Whelcome ome
800.236.1920 43 Elm Street Camden. Maine
For all Maine listings visit ~ c a md enr e.c o m FALL
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Family friendly Designated pet suites and cottages
Photo: Carol Latta
Camden, Maine
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P E N O B S C O T B AY, M A I N E
For the best in
Experience
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up to passengers
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Owl
up to passengers
Our Classic Sailing Yachts
Our Two-Masted Schooner Photo by Bruce C. Hopkins
and
“...the most private and versatile....”
Photo by Benjamin Mendlowitz
• 2 Hour Sails • Half/Full Day Charters • Private Charters • Corporate Charters • Lobster Bakes Photo by Michael Whitman
• Seating Cockpits
CAMDEN, MAINE
Built in 1927
on beautiful Penobscot Bay Aaron Lincoln Captain and Owner
Built in 1941
(207)236-2323
Grand opulence without pretense.
Escape to an historic castle and find your sanctuary. 63 High Street, Camden, Maine | 207.236.4646 | norumbegainn.com
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Those Magnificent Men (and Women) in their Flying Machines Photo courtesy of the Owls Head Transportation Museum
‘Faster: The Quest for Speed’ highlights the history of motor vehicle racing in New England.
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By Michelle Haynes
or those who love vintage airplanes and automobiles, as well as other kinds of motorized vehicles, a stop at the Owls Head Transportation Museum is a must. Located adjacent to the Knox County Regional Airport, the museum contains over 150 historic planes, trucks, motorcycles, and pretty much anything with wheels. Not only are they on display for viewing, but many still operate. And we are talking vintage, as in a 1912 Curtiss Model D Pusher airplane or a 1904 Stanley Runabout automobile. Located minutes from Rockland, the museum is open yearround and features practically nonstop events. Car fanciers from across the nation will converge on Owls Head for the Grand Photo: Carol Latta The Owls Head Museum showcases the evolution of transportation in the air and on the ground
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Finale Fall Auto Festival happening October 4 and 5 and, if Mother Nature cooperates, antique aeroplane demos are also on tap for this one. The museum will be open during the event, and guests may also visit the newest exhibit Faster: The Quest for Speed, which highlights the history of New England vehicle racing. Admission is $16 for adults, and children under 18 are free. Sandwiches, burgers, salads, soups and lobster rolls are on sale so do bring an appetite. A jump start of the holidays happens at the Fall Flea Market and Great Fall Auction, running November 1 and 2, and includes an indoor flea market and live auction. Travel packages will be offered for sale along with antique collectibles, and of course, since it is held at a transportation museum, you will find a singular collection of what are now referred to as “pre-owned vehicles” up for auction. For motor heads and aviation buffs, this is the perfect Maine holiday, and it is only Cape Air minutes away from Boston by air. capeair.com or 800cape-air. And never a charge to talk to a real person. owlshead.org
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P E N O B S C O T B AY, M A I N E
RELAX, YOU'RE IN MAINE Call: 207-236-0945
innatoceansedge.com
Bird’s Eye View - Fall 2004 - MigisImagine Ad
owning 1/2 Page Coloura vacation or retirement Hanlon Marketing Design Inc. in midcoast MAINE Tel: 422-6453 Email: hanlon@eastlink.ca
home
Martha Laitin, MEd, Buyers’ Broker • Well connected in midcoast communities • Retirement & vacation homes are my specialty • Real Estate broker for 25+ years Searsport ME • (207) 948-2815 www.askmarthainmaine.com
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BAR HARBOR, MAINE
$30.00
antique autOs ser nt De Mou
t Island, M ai n e
Welcome to Maine! Come experience wines from Maine & Around the World We also have a great selection of cheeses!
America’s premier collection of antique autos from the Brass Era (1895-1917)
1414 Tremont Road n Seal Cove, Maine n 207 244 9242
10am - 5pm daily n may 1 - OctOber 31
www.sealcoveautomuseum.org 24
Bar Harbor’s Full Service Wine and Cheese Shop
hOU S E
wine
227a Main Street • Bar Harbor, Maine 207-288-1200 housewineshop.com
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BAR HARBOR, MAINE
Three red flashes at four second intervals followed by one second of darkness – since 1858 Bass Harbor Head Light on Mount Desert Island in Acadia National Park has served as a warning to passing ships.
High atop the granite shoreline, the Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse is considered one of the most scenic in New England. Still operational and under the jurisdiction of the U. S. Coast Guard, the grounds are open to visitors. Photo: Sue Anne Hodges Thunder Hole – a natural wonder where wave meets rock meets air, sending a rocket of water as high as forty feet skyward and yes, it does sound like thunder.
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BAR HARBOR BY LAND AND SEA (LEAVE THE AIR PART TO CAPE AIR)
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By Michelle Haynes
our sky high Cape Air view of Bar Harbor is your first view of the spectacular granite mountain tops, rocky shores, and for the next two months, a Crayola box of color across the land. The entire area is surrounded by “America’s Favorite Place,” Acadia National Park. No need to take my word for it. Two months ago, ABC’s Good Morning America polled millions of viewers, and Acadia beat out Chicago’s lakefront, Glacier National Park, Gulf Shores, and Lake Tahoe as “America’s Favorite.” The morning show described Acadia as ‘‘One of the crown jewels of Maine, with nearly 50,000 acres of jaw-dropping beauty.’’ Sheridan Steele, park superintendent at Acadia, said the park’s workers are ‘‘proud and excited’’ by the honor, adding that the park’s scenic beauty is perfect for hiking, biking, and paddling. If that is not enough to entice you, add to that USA Today’s Readers’ Choice poll also singling out Acadia as THE best national park. Camping, hiking, the drama of Thunder Hole, Cadillac Mountain and 45 miles of carriage roads for walking and biking. Get started on your ‘where to go and what to do’ at acadiamagic.com
For a waterside view of Bar Harbor and Acadia check out the Lighthouse and National Park Tour on board a 90-foot jet powered catamaran. Visit five lighthouses and cruise to Otter Cliff, Sand Beach, Champlain Mountain, and Thunder Hole. An onboard historian keeps you entertained with the ‘then and now’ of the area including a pass by the seaside homes of Dick Wolf (Law and Order) and Martha Stewart. The boat leaves daily from the Bar Harbor waterfront and is around $45 per person. Lots more at barharborwhales.com
Photo: Chuck Anzalone
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Photo: Barry Gutradt, Bar Harbor Whale Watch Co. The Bar Harbor estate of “Law and Order” creator Dick Wolf
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Photo: Barry Gutradt, Bar Harbor Whale Watch Co.
BAR HARBOR, MAINE
Sand Beach, Acadia National Park Photo: Chuck Anzalone
Trenton Bridge Lobster Pound
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The best place ever to visit—learn, shop, be amazed! —D.A., London
Finally, a store that can’t be duplicated on the Internet! —R.M., Boston
One of 50 Things to Do In Maine This Summer —Bangor Daily News
Near Bar Harbor 16 Main Street (Route 3) Seal Harbor (207) 801-2777 thenaturalistsnotebook.com naturalistsnote.wordpress.com Gift certificates available 5% of proceeds go to environmental causes.
Photos: Chuck Anzalone
OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK: June to October
A unique shop and exploratorium that merges nature, art, science and the frontier of knowledge in fun and interactive installations. Created by artist Pamelia Markwood and Craig Neff, a Sports Illustrated editor. For everyone who’s even a little curious about the last 13.7 billion years (give or take).
Maine Lobster • The Freshest Fish Hand-Cut Steaks • Slow-Roasted Prime Rib Local Seafood • Fresh Salads Extensive Wine List Lunch and Dinner daily 11am–10pm Happy Hour 3–6pm in the Galley Lounge
17 Main Street Bar Harbor, Maine Half a block from the town pier
Galyn’s Since 1986
www.galynsbarharbor.com
207-288-9706
AGENCY: WOODMANCREATIVE CLIENT: NATURALIST’S NOTEBOOK PUB: BIRDS EYE VIEW ISSUE: AUG 2012 MATERIALS DUE: 7/1/12 FILE: NN_BIRDSEYE_QTRPG_AUG12.PDF CONTACT: JOWILL@WOODMANCREATIVE.COM • WWW.WOODMANCREATIVE.COM
Fresh from the Gulf of Maine cod | gray sole | sand dabs | monkfish salmon | halibut | swordfish | crab | lobster mussels | clams | Maine shrimp | scallops Established 1988
The
Burning Tree Seafood & Vegetarian SpecialtieS otter creek, Maine 207 288-9331
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ClassiC Maine Dining
Photo courtesy of Oli’s Trolley
Oli’s Trolley – a great way to tour Acadia National Park Photo: Chuck Anzalone
The Shore Path at the Bar Harbor Inn
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Bar Harbor, Maine, is home to one of the world’s premier nonprofit biomedical research institutions: The Jackson Laboratory. Our discoveries are leading to precise genomic solutions to cancer and other diseases. Our vision is to improve care, lower costs, and increase life span and health span. Follow our work by subscribing to our free e-publications: www.jax.org/subscribe
Bird’s Eye View favorite — Great Maine Breakfast restaurant, Bar Harbor (that’s really the name) Photo courtesy of Sail Acadia
www.jax.org 600 Main Street, Bar Harbor, ME 04609
Sail Acadia with Captain Karl Brunner picks up passengers in Bar Harbor, Southwest Harbor and Northeast Harbor.
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Leading the search for tomorrow’s cures
BAR HARBOR, MAINE
Main Street, Bar Harbor
Photo: Chuck Anzalone
Cape ‘Air’ for a Cause
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ape ‘Air’ for a cause – hand blown glass bottles with all proceeds benefiting Massachusetts General Hospital Breast Cancer Research Center. “Our goal is to raise enough money that may eventually lead to a cure,” says Laurie Goddard of Sandwich, Massachusetts and a coordinator of the project. “I had the fight of my life and am now six years cancer free and this is a way for me to give back to the folks at Mass General who truly saved my life.” Cape ‘Air’ in a bottle is priced at $39 and every cent goes directly to the cause. mycapecodair.com
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BAR HARBOR, MAINE
■ FROZEN IN TIME...
Real leaves, real memories. Gold and copperdipped ornaments shimmer anytime of the year. Bring home the spirit of Maine’s majestic forests.
MAINE-MADE AND LOCALLY MADE PRODUCTS KITCHEN ESSENTIALS GARDEN TABLETOP CANDLES LIGHTING SOAPS LOTIONS RUGS SHOWER CURTAINS
THE PHOTO SEEN ROUND THE WORLD…
A Bird’s Eye View thank-you to Rhode Island’s Kiel James Patrick and Sarah Vickers, the power couple behind the KJP brand. Thru the wonder of Instagram, their Cape Air post taken on Nantucket was seen by their worldwide audience of 265,000 followers. Thanks for sharing, in a big way.
166 Main Street, Bar Harbor 207 288 9550 OPEN YEAR ROUND www.windowpanesmdi.com
SAIL ACADIA · DAY SAILS · PRIVATE CHARTERS · LOBSTER BAKES
Cape Air’s Art in Flight Cape Air’s Cessna 402s by famed airbrush artist Jürek
SAIL THE ALICE E. BUILT 1899
SAILACADIA.COM \ 207-266-5210 FALL
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BIRD’S EYE VIEW FAVORITE
Fathom Chef duo Bobby Will and Brandon Sanders
THE CAPE AIR COMMUTER BOOK
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or an amazing restaurant experience, visit Bar Harbor’s Fathom Restaurant. From the home made Anadama bread to the velvety light and creamy coconut soup, (yes, coconut) with crispy leeks, golden raisin and apple chutney and scallion oil, the Fathom is a total delight. I practically took the pattern off the china trying to scrape up every spoonful. The scallops were cooked to perfection with a pomegranate and champagne glaze. They offer an outside screened-in deck in addition to a charming inside space with gleaming floors and charming sea glass centerpieces. A generous wine pour and attentive service make this a total winner. You must go, if only to experience the cornmeal and molasses butter, served with the homemade bread basket. fathombarharbor.com
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If you are traveling with family, friends or co-workers, the Cape Air commuter book, with five discounted round trip coupons is the way to go. Good for a year (at least), you can take advantage of savings that can go as high as 30 percent. See commuter book prices and savings at capeair.com.
Boston commuter book customers traveling through Logan Airport can show their Cape Air boarding pass to access the ‘Even More Speed’ B I R D’S
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One Of Maine’s PreMier Wedding destinatiOns…
say “i dO” by the sea…
We are situated on 13 serene acres at the foothills of Acadia National Park, and the incredible views of Maine’s coast set this resort apart from the ordinary.
Voted one of the top 500 hotels in the world by Travel + Leisure Magazine
■ ■ ■ ■
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OCeanfrOnt r esOrt & sPa 800-350-3352 207-288-3351 www.Bar H arBor inn.coM ■
2014
Debra Bell, Bell Imaging & Design
Elegant rooms and suites, most with waterfront balconies Located directly on the ocean with great in-town convenience Professional menu planning and complete bridal services Luxury spa, fitness center and fine dining
Pure White Art Photography
■ ■ ■ ■
BAR HARBOR, MAINE
Memorable...
150 spacious rooms with ocean views, suites available Dining accommodations for 300 guests Professional menu planning and complete bridal services Indoor and outdoor saltwater pools, fitness center
AtlAntic OceAnside hOtel & COnferenCe Center
800-296-0403 ■ 207-288-2559 www.Bar H arBor M aineHotel .coM
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AMBROSIA-THE FOOD OF THE GODS
Learn the humane way to boil lobster at the Ambrosia Cooking School
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t’s all the more heavenly when you make it yourself, which happens at the appropriately named Ambrosia Cooking School in the heart of Bar Harbor. Trained in the art of Advanced French Cooking and French Pastry at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, Chef Sharon Joyce presents classes covering a wide range of cuisines, both international and local, with Maine stalwarts like blueberry muffins, popovers, chowder and of course Maine’s signature dish, lobster. “In my classes I like folks to go home with more than a recipe. We talk about local, fresh and organic, and what a big difference that can
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make in the taste of your dishes. As for lobster prep, there is more to it than just putting it in a pot, which frankly, a lot of people have trouble with. I can demonstrate a more humane method.” Other classes on tap this fall include what the chef calls a crash course in catering your own parties, with an emphasis on clever party saving tips. Hint: Never put the alcohol next to the food, it causes a cluster. Coming this fall – an international cooking series including Mediterranean cuisine found in Italy, Spain, and Portugal. You will learn how to make a Tapenade appetizer, handmade Gnocchi with a lobster sage butter sauce, roasted vegetable Napoli, and a dessert of Coffee Gelée. Classes are around $70 and usually run from 4 pm to 7 pm. Leaf peeping and cooking, a grand combination. And yes, you do get to feast on all that you cook. ambrosiacookingschool.com
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BAR HARBOR, MAINE
Ambrosia Cooking School – A communal experience, Bar Harbor, Maine
A Classic Bar Harbor Hotel otel
✧ Indulge yourself with exquisite spa treatments at our Eden Spa. ✧ Dine high above Bar Harbor at The Looking Glass Restaurant, a Wine Spectator 2013 Award of Excellence Winner. ✧ Heated Indoor and Outdoor Pools, Fitness Room, Whirlpool Tub, & Steam Room - no resort fees. ✧ Magnificent Great Room Piano Lounge featuring light fare & live seasonal entertainment. ✧ Convenient location - close to town, Acadia National Park, and steps from a complimentary Island Explorer pick-up.* (*seasonal).
For Reservations Call: 1-800-445-4077
90 Eden Street | Bar Harbor, ME 04609 | Phone: (207) 288-3348 E-mail:: info@barharborhotel.com www.barharborhotel.com
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Southwest Harbor — Courtesy of the Bar Harbor Chamber of Commerce Photo: Chuck Anzalone
Southwest Harbor, Maine
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SOUTHWEST HARBOR, MAINE
Birds, art, and activities at the museum of bird carving in Southwest Harbor, Maine Carving Demonstrations and Workshops Art Exhibits Natural History Programs Museum Store From miniature ducks to life-size eagles, the works of Wendell Gilley delight visitors of all ages.
4 Herrick Road Southwest Harbor 207 244-7555 wendellgilleymuseum.org
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NORTHEAST HARBOR, MAINE
Lisa Hall Studio
Jewelry, Gifts &Art
'Sentinel' by Rikki Morley Saunders
REPRESENTED ARTISTS
Visit us just off Main Street
Valerie Aponik • Katie Bell • Mayra Bonilla • Emily Brown • Cortright Devereux Stephen Dinsmore • Hal Ford • Lindsay Hopkins-Weld • Ellen Kappes • Ian Kirk David Lancaster • Constance LaPalombara • Mallie Loring • Doug Mooberry Rikki Morley Saunders • Robert S. Neuman • Paul Rickert • Derrick Sekulich Cynthia Stroud • Morris Stroud • Raymond Strout • Melita Westerlund • Melina White
Northeast Harbor
10AM–6PM Monday through Saturday • 12PM–5PM on Sunday
www.lisahalljewelry.com
6 Neighborhood Road, Northeast Harbor, Maine • 207 276 3060
207.276.5900 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM
www.stargallerymaine.com
Photo: Chuck Anzalone
JUST 15 MINUTES FROM BAR HARBOR AIRPORT
The finest shopping… an extraordinary location
Outstanding personal service since 1911 • Shipping nationwide 135 Main Street • Northeast Harbor, Maine • (800) 673-3754
www.kimballshop.com
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Asticou Azalea Garden, Northeast Harbor, Maine
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THE BLUE HILL PENINSULA, MAINE By Sally Brophy
The reversing falls offers beautiful places to explore on both sides of the bridge that crosses Route 175 in Blue Hill. Under the right conditions it’s even possible to surf at this unusual spot in the Bagaduce River.
Photo: Sally Brophy
Lodging, Dining & Events
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Fort Madison is one of the many historic locations you can visit in Castine.
astine isn’t a place that’s discovered because you’re just passing through. It’s a destination that must be sought out at land’s end, and people have been seduced by it for centuries. Members of the Algonquin nation were the first inhabitants, though European settlers arrived as early as the 1600s. The peninsula is strategically placed near the mouth of the Penobscot River alongside a deep, well-protected harbor, causing often bloody competition for control between the French, Dutch, English and Americans. History is everywhere in Castine, from the 18th century Georgian and Federal homes, to the hand painted signs marking historical sites, and the remaining fort ramparts along the shore.
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Manor Inn
The 76 Battle Avenue Castine, Maine 04421
Experience the historic village of Castine www.manor-inn.com
Phone: (207) 326-4861
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BLUE HILL PENINSULA, MAINE
Photo: Sally Brophy The countryside surrounding Castine includes blueberry barrens, rolling farmland, deciduous forests, and numerous quiet beaches, including Wadsworth Cove.
CASTINE, MAINE Photos: Sally Brophy
Beneath the present Catholic Church lies Fort Pentagöet built by the French in the 1630s. The fort overlooking Castine Harbor was part of France’s attempt to maintain control over the region they called Acadia.
The Manor Inn, built by a 19th century “rusticator” during an era of grand summer homes, has been converted to a bed and breakfast. The guest rooms and dining area give you expansive views overlooking Penobscot Bay.
The Manor Inn is nestled high above the town, offering comfortable, spacious accommodations and a friendly staff. You can enjoy broad views of Penobscot Bay from your room, or from the restaurant. We enjoyed a superb meal of roasted beet and arugula salad, wasabi-crusted salmon, and steamed mussels. If you’re lucky enough to be there when they’re serving lemon meringue pie – don’t miss it! manor-inn.com 44
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Photo: Carol Latta Castine Harbor is home port to the Maine Maritime Academy and numerous boating enthusiasts.
PENTAGĂ–ET INN & RESTAURANT CASTINE, MAINE
Award Winning Lodging Fine Food and Wine Storied Village by the Sea 207-326-8616 www.pentagoet.com 26 MAIN STREET, CASTINE, MAINE FALL
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CASTINE, MAINE Photos: Sally Brophy
The cozy, quirky atmosphere inside the Pentagöet Inn offers visitors a memorable setting amongst the mismatched china and fresh flowers. On warm evenings there are tables on the porch where you can dine in the fresh salt air.
The Pentagöet Inn is located in the heart
of the waterfront, where this Queen Anne Victorian lends a whimsical air to your stay or dining experience. The emphasis on fresh, local ingredients comes through in the flavors of each item, including the chilled cucumber and lovage soup, and peekytoe crab cakes. pentagoet.com
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ELLSWORTH, MAINE
Photo: Peter Louderback
WHOOPS!
We made an error in the last issue — the correct name is “Rooster Brother,” Ellsworth, Maine
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STONINGTON, MAINE Photos: Sally Brophy
You’ll get an authentic downeast experience when visiting Stonington, ME where Mainers catch more lobster than anywhere in the world. More than 14,000,000 pounds are landed here annually.
Supporting local businesses is practically a religion throughout the region, giving you a chance to have unique experiences in the many shops, galleries and restaurants. The breathtaking scenery feels uncrowded but not isolated. You could easily find a pristine beach all to yourself for a quiet picnic. Bring an extra layer for fall weather. People are refreshingly authentic and eager to share their love of the area. The bridge over to Deer Isle feels a little like a roller coaster, but it’s worth the trip for the stunning vistas on the other side. Artists have long been captivated by this region. Be sure to visit some of the local galleries, including the Pearson Legacy Gallery, Turtle Gallery and Jill Hoy Gallery. Or plan to visit Haystack Mountain School of Crafts. Visit the Penobscot East Resource Center in Stonington to view exhibits about the region’s fisheries heritage. You might even get to touch a rare blue lobster!
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BLUE HILL PENINSULA, MAINE
“Extraordinary hospitality” Best Traditional Maine Inn —Yankee Magazine, 2013
Welcoming you from May to November • Enjoy our delightful three-course breakfast with entrée choices • Sip a cocktail in front of the fireplace or toast with fine wine in the orchard; the hors d'oeuvres are complimentary • Let us help you discover the charms of Blue Hill Bay
www.bluehillinn.com 207/374-2844 – 800/826-7415 40 Union Street Blue Hill, ME 04614
We offer year-round lodging in our Cape House Suite and Studio.
BLUE HILL: 4 Old Yacht Club Road. This arts and crafts style granite and stucco structure built in 1919 was the original Blue Hill Yacht Club and served as housing for the yacht captain and family. Land consists of 8.5+-acres with 890 feet of deep water frontage on Morgan Bay. Bold granite ledges prevail with a sandy beach area that appears at low tide. A property waiting for a buyer to restore the building to its former majestic beauty. THIS IS A GEM ON THE COAST OF MAINE! $2,850,000.
www.saltmeadowproperties.com
Main Street, Castine, Maine 207-326-9116 – castine@saltmeadowproperties.com Main Street, Blue Hill, Maine 207-374-5010 – bluehill@saltmeadowproperties.com
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Protecting Wildlife and Human Health
Center for Marine Studies 55 Main Street, Blue Hill, Maine (207) 374-2135 • meriresearch.org B I R D’S
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After you leave Deer Isle, you’ll continue to be surrounded by the beauty of coastal Maine, including the reversing salt water falls in Blue Hill and Naskeag Point in Brooklin. Grab a treat at Sandy’s Provisions, or a wood-fired pizza and micro-brew at Barncastle Hotel + Restaurant while you ponder the possibility of sailing, kayaking, biking or hiking to see more of what’s beyond the roadways.
Weddings
Your Way
The Lookout
Pearson Legacy Gallery Monthly exhibitions feature artwork in all media. Artists from throughout Maine and across the country. Workshops, monthly Literary Arts Night, Artist’s Forum Evenings, and Noontime Professionalism Lectures.
~ B&B Rooms & Cottages ~ ~Fine Dining & Catering ~
Featuring a Special Collection of Work from
Ronald Hayes Pearson 13 Dow Road, Deer Isle, ME 04627 pearsonlegacy@gmail.com 207-348-3030 FALL
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BROOKLIN/DEER ISLE, MAINE
Photo: Sally Brophy Fishermen use this peninsula in Brooklin to reach clam flats and lobster grounds. The public boat ramp is a good spot to launch kayaks and explore Jericho Bay.
Photo: Julie Almand, Courtesy of Anderson Publishing
Three generations of the Larrabee Family, Tom Sr., Tom Jr., and Nick
We have all seen the commercials. Two men, standing in the cranberry bog pitching one of the most popular juice companies in America. They are actors. You can meet the real thing in Nantucket at one of the world’s oldest cranberry bogs in continuous operation. Three generations of the Larrabee family, Tom Sr., his son Tom and grandson Nick work the hundred-plus bog acres owned by the Nantucket Conservation Foundation, producing almost two million pounds of cranberries a year. Tom Jr. was a teenager when he began working the bog, but it was not long before off-island life beckoned. A stint in the U.S. Marine Corps was followed by years as a boat captain near Hilton Head, South Carolina. “I was living the ‘Life of Reilly,’ says Mr. Larrabee. “I met and married my wife of 26 years and was having a great time when 9/11 happened and I realized I was too far away from home and family. So here I am working with my Dad and my son Nick in the place where it all began.”
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For most of us, cranberries in juice or as a side dish are something we pull off the supermarket shelf. How the product gets there is quite another story. “Shipping is one of our biggest challenges,” says Mr. Larrabee, “then of course, weather and insects also play a part, so the work is pretty constant. We are also seeing major changes in our organic bogs, where demand for that product continues to grow.” In fact, Nantucket is home to one of the few certified organic bogs in the country. Today the Larrabee’s are poised to launch their own brand – Nantucket Genuine – The Power of Fruit. Look for it in your neighborhood market, or even better, make your way to the Nantucket Conservation Foundation’s 12th Annual Cranberry Festival happening alongside the bogs on Milestone Road, Saturday, October 11 from 11:00 am to 4:00 pm.
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CR ANBE RRY HARVE ST FE STIVAL Photos: Dr. Greg Hinson |NantucketStock.com
Nantucketconservation.org
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NANTUCKET ADVENTURES
THAT ARE FREE OR ALMOST FREEI KID YOU NOT! By Michelle Haynes
Green crabs bad (invasive) – rock crabs good– Field Guide Len Germinara is a treasure trove when it comes to local flora and fauna. He had us munching on leaves (edible, of course) foraging for blackberry vines and picking apples from the old tree in a tucked away corner. They were delicious in species and in taste… Photos: Ann Murphy
Photo: Chuck Anzalone
M ’Sconset Beach
any One Percenters play and live on Nantucket – an evident fact as you make the final approach on your Cape Air/Nantucket Airlines flight and gaze out over the seaside mansions dotting the landscape. It is true that Nantucket has no shortage of high end shops and restaurants, many of which are having major sales going on right now, BUT in the ‘what to do’ category there is good news for the rest of us. You may have to look a little but there is no shortage of fun things to see and to do that are either free or in the $5 to $10 category. I kid you not. It may be autumn with a bit of a nip in the air but this is a grand time to enjoy the beaches and the golden hues of the dunes. Keep in mind, all the beaches and the beach parking are free every day. For the next two months and beyond you have miles of sand and sea pretty much to yourself. Beach maps (free) are available at the Nantucket Chamber of Commerce and the island’s public bus, The WAVE, gets you anywhere you want to go for a buck or two.
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A Nantucket ‘must do’ that even a lot of locals have not tried is a trip out to the Nantucket Field Station run by the University of Massachusetts – Boston and protected by the Nantucket Conservation Foundation. One hundred-plus acres of untouched and protected property is open to the public year round, every day and offers two miles of walking trails that take you in and around a variety of natural treasures leading to a spectacular stretch of beach. Find a quiet perch on the old stone bench found in a clearing in the woods behind the three broccoli trees: you will recognize them immediately. Once you get to the shore it is a beachcomber paradise, with plenty of shells and beach glass on the day we were there.
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“The Michael Kane Collection”-Basket Bracelets ®
Also available at Andersons, 29 Main Street, Nantucket, 508-228-4187
“Don’t knock it til you try it.” The blue cups are coated with tree sap, an all natural bug repellant. Does it work? Take a close look at the cups.
18A Sparks Avenue ~ 508.228.1548 lightshipbaskets@gmail.com www.MichaelKanesLightshipBaskets.com
The silence is broken only by the occasional gull cry, the slight breeze through the trees, the chatter of the red-winged blackbirds by the marsh and, once you reach the beach, the hypnotic sounds of the waves meeting the shoreline. That is it. No man made noise of any kind. Bring a picnic, find a spot and enjoy what makes Nantucket such a magical place. The Nantucket Field Station is open every day during daylight hours. Visitors should sign in at the Field Station laboratory at the entrance to the trail, located at 180 Polpis Road. nantucketconservation.org
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TAKE A RIGHT TURN THRU THE BROOM CLOSET
Photo: Cary Hazlegrove |NantucketStock.com
First Congregational Church
Should it rain or even if it doesn’t, another great mini-adventure is the walk up the steps, about 94 of them, to the bell tower atop Nantucket’s historic First Congregational Church for a jaw dropping view of the island. You reach the staircase by going through the broom closet, Narnia style, (I am not kidding) located just inside the vestibule as you enter the church. At the top you will find a couple of rocking chairs and benches, along with several pairs of binoculars. One of the church volunteers is up there to answer questions and point out the sights. You can spend quite a bit of time here, first to recover somewhat from the climb, not too bad if you take it slow. Before or after the climb, take a look at the church and the Old North Vestry, for there is quite a history there dating back to the 1700s. The bell tower is not technically free at $5 per person, but the fees go to the church fund. With the foliage on view right now, this is well worth it. The church is located in the heart of downtown, just a few blocks off Main Street at 62 Centre Street. Then again, just look up, for it is the tallest white bell tower visible from almost anywhere in town. nantucketfcc.org
AN OOPS MOMENT FROM THE LAST ISSUE:
Photo: Ann Murphy Find him at the top of the bell tower. Volunteer Bob Gardner says the number one question coming from folks who climb the bell tower is, “Where are the lighthouses?”
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We mis-identified the owner of Nobby Clothes Shop, he is Sam Limperis. We regret the error.
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NANTUCKET
Sa l es & Va c a t i on Re nta l s MARIO RUSSO
Shepherd Real Estate
SAlOn lOcAtIOnS: BAck BAy 9 newBURy St fAn pIeR 60 nORtheRn Ave www.MARIORUSSO.cOM
Zero Main Street, Nantucket, MA 02554 508.228.5668 WWW.ssnantucket.com
617|424|6676
THE STOCK ANSWER A simple way to buy stunning Nantucket images.
BROWSE. PURCHASE. DOWNLOAD.
WWW.NANTUCKETSTOCK.COM
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The magic hour at the Nantucket Boat Basin
This stunning photo won Luke Gutelius of New York City two round trip tickets good for anywhere Cape Air flies. A beach, a park, a landmark, people having fun in any Cape Air destination, send us your photo and if we print it you win two round trip Cape Air tickets. Hint: We love un-posed, totally candid, people shots. Send your high res images to Birdseyeviewmagazine@gmail.com by October 1st in time for our Holiday issue. Follow us on instagram @birdseyeviewmagazine and tag your photos.
Compass Rose
Real Estate,Inc.
P r o p e r t y S a l e s & Va c a t i o n R e n t a l s Always trust your Compass! N
5 0 8 - 3 2 5 - 5 5 0 0 • w w w. c o m p a s s r o s e r e a l e s t a t e . c o m 137A Orange St. Nantucket, MA 02554
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Brass L antern Inn Nantucket Lodging at its Best Enjoy contemporary comfort in a classic setting Located in the heart of the Historic District Main Inn and Garden Wing Weddings and Groups Pets welcome
www.BrassLanternNantucket.com Member: Diamond Collection, bedandbreakfast.com TripAdvisor Certificates of Excellence 2010 - 2013
11 North Water Street, Nantucket, MA 02554 reservations@brasslanternnantucket.com • 508-228-4064 • 800-377-6609
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1
NANTUCKET DISC GOLF
Photo: Peter Louderback
- Free to play! - No tee times! -
Easy learning curve! Family- and dog-friendly! Open all day, 365 days a year! Discs sold on island at The Sunken Ship
21 Lovers Lane, Nantucket State Forest Nantucket, MA 02554 (508) 901-9456 www.nantucketdiscgolf.org
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info@nantucketdiscgolf.org
Course Map B I R D’S
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Children’s Beach – Photo courtesy of the Nantucket Chamber of Commerce
Photo: Ann Murphy Keyon Frazer of Children’s Beach Cafe
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Not Just for Kids
H
ope for rain – Here’s a dining deal that even many locals don’t know about. Get yourself down to the Children’s Café located, of course, on Children’s Beach, minutes from Nantucket’s downtown cobblestones. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner the food is Easy Street delicious, (same owners of that popular Island eatery) and the prices are amazing. They get even more amazing when it rains, with many dishes at $5.00 while the seafood is half off. It is cozy inside with a fantastic playlist. They were playing Motown when we were there. A friendly staff, a view of the harbor, and those mouth watering muffins that Easy Street is so famous for, they plan to stay open thru Columbus Day, but be sure to check at childrenscafe.com.
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PIERO FENCI & Sculpture by LIZ AKAMATSU & IREAN OLIER OAKLEY
PATTI RAE & NICHOLAS RAY Paintings by WILLIAM BARSTOW IV, SUSAN COYNE,
visit the
SUSAN LISTER LOC K E G A L L E RY
508.228.2132 & 508.221.0531
susanlisterlocke.com
28 Easy S treet
NANTUCKET
M.J. LEVY DICKSON, MARY GIAMMARINO, GRAY JACOBIK, MICHAEL J. MOORE & LUCINDA YOUNG Ceramic Art by
MARINER HOUSE You can own two weeks in historic downtown Nantucket! Fireplaces and Woodstoves Full Kitchens On-site Laundry Facilities Cable TV and DVD Players Wi-Fi Perfect for Families! One and Two Bedroom Units Weekly Rentals Also Available
30 Centre Street • Nantucket, MA
508-680-1082 FALL
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NANTUCKET
THE ARTISTS OF THE GALLERY Jewelry by SUSAN LISTER LOCKE, DIANA KIM ENGLAND, MINOU PALANDJIAN,
WHEN A FRISBEE IS A DISC – NANTUCKET DISC GOLF Photos: Peter Louderback
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By Michelle Haynes
looks like and flies like a Frisbee but whatever you do, don’t catch it. In the sport of Disc Golf, a round disc (think Frisbee®) is thrown at specific targets around a course, all quite akin to golf. The object of one of the fastest growing sports in the nation is to finish the course with the fewest number of disc throws. It’s golf-like, but with flying discs replacing the clubs and balls. A did-you-know fact: the word Frisbee is actually a trademarked name, thus the term, disc golf. “People do not know a lot about disc golf as a sport,” says the understated Todd Rainwater, president of Nantucket Disc Golf. “We walk around the forest carrying a small bag and throw discs (Frisbees) from hole to hole, and the one who gets to the 18th hole with the least number of throws, wins. We do not have tee times, the course is always open and free and kids and dogs are welcome.” (How un-golf like is that!) Mr. Rainwater says disc golf areas are opening up at a rapid pace in Massachusetts as well as the rest of the country.
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Todd Rainwater, president of Nantucket Disc Golf
“Folks are looking for inexpensive activities they can enjoy as a family that are also environmentally friendly, and disc golf certainly fits all of those categories.” For those planning an autumn visit to Nantucket, the disc course can be found in a beautiful stretch of woods reached by a dirt road sporting the sign Lovers Lane. Open every day and, not to be repetitive, but the course is free to everyone.
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Photo: Kim Corkran “No Michelle, it is not a Frisbee.”
Just show up, pick up a scorecard and a map at the course entrance and play. Unless you are a really bad throw, you only need one disc to play. Discs can be found at the Sunken Ship, more landmark than gift shop, located on Broad Street, across the way from the Nantucket Whaling Museum. They run around $10. Then again, you can always dig out the old Frisbee from the back of the trunk, which is not something you see from the hard core disc golfers.“The official discs are actually made to fly differently,” says Mr. Rainwater. “They fly left, and some are good for the right, while others are made for sidearm and overhand throws, but for most folks any Frisbee will do for a fun outdoor activity on Nantucket.” Photo: Kim Corkran
For the next couple of months the disc course forest will show off quite a show of foliage color so if you send holiday photo cards, this setting surely beats the fireplace pose! Did we mention it is free? nantucketdiscgolf.org
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NANTUCKET
THAI HOUSE Thai Food & Sushi
508-680-1522 118 Old South Road Nantucket, MA 02554
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Photo: Ann Murphy
t is awkward and often bulky, and as a purse, the Nantucket Lightship Basket doesn’t really hold much yet this somewhat impractical item is THE Nantucket fashion accessory. Art openings, galas or even in the aisles of the local supermarket, scores of women carry what appears to be an identical bag on their arms, but truth be told, if it is an authentic, woven on Nantucket basket, no two bags are the same. Beth English, owner of the popular shop, Current Vintage, says it is all about workmanship, details and history. “The Lightship Baskets are a true labor of love and central to our sense of place here on Nantucket. Many of these baskets are family heirlooms handed down generations. In my shop I try to stick to vintage as much as possible and I would love to have a few Nantucket Lightship Baskets for sale, but we never get any, for no woman would ever give it up.” One of the best ways to truly appreciate both the workmanship and history of these coveted baskets is the Nantucket Lightship Basket Museum. I cannot resist sharing the directions in the words of the Museum: Wander off Main Street on to Union Street where the stewards of the whaling industry lived. Walk the brick path once swished by the grey skirts of Quaker ladies. Glance up from your stroll at the widows’ walks where merchants and families scanned the horizon for returning ships. As you approach Weymouth Lane curling up into the gray mist, the magical historic garden of the museum unfolds in front of you… Now that is the way to give directions. The museum also offers an equally entertaining presentation on the basket’s maritime history, which was actually a time passing exercise for men stationed on the lightships, the precursor to modern automated lighthouse type buoys found offshore. Although the lightships are
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Photo: Chuck Anzalone
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“ We have a group of ladies that have been weaving baskets for us for years,” says Judi Hill, owner of Hill’s of Nantucket. “We also sell miniature baskets for tree ornaments that people really love.”
long gone and baskets are now woven in more stationary settings, the name stuck. If those bored seamen could only see the evolution of their baskets. The
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One of the premier basket makers on Nantucket is the inimitable and renowned Michael Kane. An absolute must is a visit to his studio, and do check out his trademarked Basket Bracelets. MichaelKanesLightshipBaskets.com Photo: Kim Corkran
Windmill Cape Air Bird's Eye2011_Layout 1 6/1/11 9:00 AM Page 1
NANTUCKET WINDMILL CARS
JEEPS
AUTO RENTAL at the Nantucket Memorial Airport
WE’LL GIVE YOU: A clean new vehicle • Low rates & free mileage • Prompt courteous service
WE’RE AT THE AIRPORT – WE’LL MEET THE BOAT!
Pat Krystofolski weaves on Fridays at the Nantucket Lightship Museum
museum is open through Columbus Day for an affordable admission of price of $5. nantucketlightshipbasketmuseum.org
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508-228-1227 | 800-228-1227 wmill508@aol.com
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SMALL SCALLOPS ARE A BIG DEAL ON NANTUCKET By Peter A. Morrison
Photos: Rob Benchley
S
mitty will have already caught his daily limit of Nantucket Bay scallops by 10 a.m. They’ll be shucked and flown out that afternoon, fetching upwards of $20 a pound from restaurateurs and gourmets across the nation. Why the mania for these modest-sized scallops which are so dear in price? “Some things in the world are found only in one place,” observes Mary-Adair Macaire, informal keeper of the brand. “Bay scallops from Nantucket are one of those things.” Thirty miles off the Massachusetts coast, Nantucket Island is home to the world’s oldest sustainable scallop fishery. The island’s isolated location and clear waters create a unique habitat that nurtures wild bay scallops, harvested in their second year after spawning, and renowned for their subtle texture and distinctive flavor. October ushers in Nantucket’s family scalloping season. During this early season, locals, by longstanding tradition, work the shallow pristine waters, gathering a family meal and, for
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some, indulging a hunter-gatherer instinct. Commercial harvesting of this luxury culinary product begins in November and runs through the end of March. Daily, hundreds of pounds of succulent Nantucket Bay scallops reach a handful of restaurants and retailers catering to knowledgeable aficionados. Seasonal Nantucket residents cart them home in coolers. Availability fluctuates from season to season, depending on the vagaries of weather, habitat and a host of nonhuman predators. Through winter months that grow increasingly bitter, lone fishermen dredge Nantucket’s harbors, setting out before sunrise and returning with the day’s harvest by noon. “This is a rag-tag fleet,” explains local historian and award-winning author Nat Philbrick. “These are boats where maintenance is not a priority– functionality is what counts. It’s a highly physical endeavor.” Ms. Macaire, once Chanel’s brand manager and a Nantucket “wash-ashore,” pressed the locals to brand Nantucket Bay scallops. She kick-started an initiative aimed at fortifying the identity of this luxury culinary product that inhabits Nantucket’s pristine shallow waters. The local Nantucket Shellfish Association registered the scallop service mark (“Nantucket Bay Scallops”). Ms. Macaire created a classy website that recounts the story of “bay scallops from Nantucket.” It is a rich story of history and tradition, building an identity recognized by high-end gourmets
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everywhere. “This island has a vital link to the past,” Philbrick explains. Nantucket’s scallop fishing community uses traditional harvesting techniques passed down from the mid-19th century. Mature scallops are hand culled from the juveniles destined for the following year’s catch, then shucked (opened) by hand and packed immediately for refrigerated transport to market. No preservatives, no freezing. The annual fall Scallopers Ball celebrates the start of the seasonal harvest. Hundreds of locals show up to feast, drink, and dance at the Nantucket Yacht Club, readying themselves to head out for family scalloping the next day. November through March are cold months to fish in open boats, and only a hardy few persist. Harvesting scallops counterbalances a local economy dominated by May-to-October tourism, generating off-season employment for 100 or so Nantucketers and adding an estimated $3 million to the island’s economy. Resident family scallopers sustain local traditions. On days off, locals like Dr. Diane Pearl and others venture into watery depths, harvest a basket of scallops for a family dinner and, with a glass of champagne, fine wine or local beer, toast the brand. To learn more, visit nantucketbayscallops.org Peter A. Morrison is a Nantucket resident, family scalloper, and Nantucket Shellfish Association director.
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VIEW pick for Nantucket – The Periwinkle B&B Photos: Terry Pommett
Breakfast al fresco at Nantucket’s Periwinkle Inn
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ines of shiny bikes are lined up in the backyard, not far from the white lounge chairs laid out on the green expanse of lawn bordered by a flourishing perennial and herb garden. Sarah O’Reilly, owner of Nantucket’s historic Periwinkle Bed & Breakfast is all about the details. Spotless and cozy, the walls are a warm robin’s egg blue, or more appropriately, Nantucket Blue, and accompanied by the whitest of white in the linens and curtains. Morning nosh includes fresh
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baked muffins and fruit to be enjoyed in the dining area or out in the garden. In addition to the ‘just let it go’ vibe, the Periwinkle’s other major feature is location. Minutes from the Main Street cobblestones and the famed Whaling Museum, absolutely no car is needed, as you can hop aboard the handy WAVE bus for a two dollar ride to the island’s gorgeous countryside and on to magical ‘Sconset. The canopied beds and wicker furniture do harken back to Periwinkle’s historic roots, but the amenities are all in the ‘now’ category, including rapid fast wifi, A/C, cable television and a minifridge in all of the rooms. For guests who want coffee and tea at the ready, a handy Keurig is ready to go twenty-four hours a day, and if you pop back in the afternoon, grab one of the homemade chocolate chip cookies. You see why we love this place! Fall rates start at around $225 and drop down to $150 per night in mid-October, but there are often specials, so get the latest info at theperiwinkle.com.
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windwalker Real Estate Sales • Research • Rentals
Read our Monthly Market Research at windwalkerrealestate.com
SConSET $4,000,000 Artistic Renovation
4BR restored Main house, 2BR cottage plus ocean views. Exclusive - Jenny Paradis
PoCoMo $2,499,000 Your Private Retreat
Barn style 4 BR home with 3 levels of living on 3+ acres. Exclusive - Mary Taaffe & Judy Waters
Town $3,625,000 Front & Center on Centre Street
CLIFF $2,195,000 This Could be Your View
Town $1,695,000 Coastal Chic
Town $2,850,000 Moments to Main Street
Two lots with views over a pond to Town. Exclusive - Judy Waters
Residential/Commercial building in prime in-Town location. Co-exclusive - Jennifer Shalley & Susan Lister Locke
Contemporary 4BR, 3.5BA close to Town & bike paths. Exclusive - Mary Taaffe Artist’s Rendering
Meticuously maintained 4BR home with modern amenities. Exclusive - Mary Taaffe
Brant Point $10,495,000 Ready for Summer Living Embrace and experience summer memories for years to come from this treasured Hulbert Avenue waterfront setting. Rare opportunity in one of the most coveted locations on Nantucket! Exclusive - Roberta white & Judy waters
SuRFSIDE $2,395,000 Surfside Splendor
Main house, cottage and pool near Surfside Beach. Exclusive - Jay McConnell
wInDwALKER AGEnTS Mark Burlingham Leone Collins Lee Gaw Mike Glowacki
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Mary Haley Jim Houghton Susie Lister Locke Jay McConnell
2014
Jenny Paradis Justin Quinn Jennifer Shalley Mary Taaffe
Judy waters Roberta white Alan worden
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M A R T H A ’ S V I N E YA R D
And the living is easy...
Carol McManus Broker/Owner
508.221.1139 www.cmcmanusrealtygroup.com
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Martha’s Vineyard photographer—Nicole Friedler Brisson
Photo: Nicole Friedler Brisson
Edgartown, Martha’s Vineyard
M A R T H A ’ S V I N E YA R D
“I believe you should surround yourself with your happy memories, so that when you come down the stairs to the kitchen or sit on your sofa in your living room, there are the scenes that take you back to joyous occasions or relaxing, wonderful times. Photos are some of the most precious and personal things we will ever possess. What an incredible thing to be able to record special times and magic moments for people.”
FALL EXPLORATIONS OF
MARTHA’S VINEYARD Featuring Martha’s Vineyard photographer —Nicole Friedler Brisson
Gay Head Cliffs in Aquinnah Photos: Nicole Friedler Brisson
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Menemsha Harbor
he Gay Head Cliffs in Aquinnah, ancestral home of the Wampanoag Tribe, is one of the most photographed spots on the island. Designated a National Natural Landmark by the U.S. Department of Interior, a short climb down the path to
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the beach below the cliffs, known as Moshup Beach, is well worth it. At this time of year when the autumn light hits the red clay, the water turns an amazing reddish tint. Now too, the crowds are gone from another popular photo spot, the gingerbread cottages in Oak Bluffs. A paved sidewalk takes you around what began in 1835 as a summer site for Methodist revival meetings. During the 1900s families stayed in the oak grove under a series of tents, which evolved into multi-colored cottages à la Hans Christian Anderson. Fall is a great time to take in the colors and quietude before hitting nearby Circuit Avenue for lunch and shopping. Off-season sales are on. Information on what is happening and where to go is at the Martha’s Vineyard Chamber of Commerce in Vineyard Haven, or for advance planning check out mvy.com
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What is off limits in summer is now open to everyone – Lucy Vincent Beach
One of many farms across Martha’s Vineyard
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Photo: Alison Shaw
Harbor View THE HOTEL THAT SAVED A TOWN By Michelle Haynes
The Harbor View Hotel
Harbor View – The Hotel That Saved a Town By Nis Kildegaard
he town in the aforementioned title happens to be Edgartown, a rather tony address with a preponderance of elegant pearl white homes and manicured rose gardens. That this town needed saving sounds preposterous, and that it was saved by the elegant Harbor View, the largest resort in town, further strains incredulity. “You look at the picture-perfect postcard town nestled by the sea and it is hard to imagine it as a whaling and fishing port in decline, with people living in dire circumstances,” says Robin Kirk, president of Scout Hotels Management Company overseeing the Harbor View.
“When an industry collapses, what happens to the people who live and work there? How do you find a new purpose for the town? The answer presented itself to Edgartown’s business leaders, build a place for people to come and stay.” Such was the case in 1891 when Edgartown looked with
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Photo: Chris Scott Snyder The 1975 filming of Jaws provided an economic boost to Martha’s Vineyard
hotel envy at Cottage City (now known as Oak Bluffs). “… Edgartown wanted what Cottage City had, a thriving resort economy based on the emerging American fashion of summering by the sea.” Nis Kildegaard, from his book, Harbor View – The Hotel that Saved a Town. A small group of investors raised $5,000 and construction began on a waterfront property just outside of town in the pastures beyond North Water Street, and the inevitable ups and downs followed. “Trying to create a new future is a bumpy road, and they did find bumps along the way,” says Mr. Kirk. “To a degree if you build it, they will come is not always smooth to the end.” But then again, no bumps, no story, and writer Nis Kildegaard, accompanied by glorious images from award-winning island photographer Alison Shaw, has a winner with this intricate and fascinating tale involving the Great Depression, war, bankruptcy, corruption and fraud. The blockbuster film Jaws and the death of a young woman that involved a powerful young senator on nearby Chappaquiddick are also part of the saga. Coffee table books are not normally page turners. This is the exception. The ultimate triumph belongs to the stately and successful Harbor View Hotel, open year-round for every occasion and holiday and continuing to play a huge part in the support of the Edgartown community.
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ISLAND ART GALLERY
ORIGINALS ~ PHOTOGRAPHY ~ PRINTS
66 MAIN ~ VINEYARD HAVEN, MA 508-693-3948 ~ www.kennedystudiosmv.com CUSTOM FRAMING and PRINTING
508.693.1850 www.featherstoneart.org
P.O. Box 1145, 30 Featherstone Lane Off Barnes Road, Oak Bluffs, MA 02557
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Martha’s Vineyard
local
sustainable thoughtfully sourced
Living Local Classes Culinary Experiences
Catering Photo by Jocelyn Filley
Weddings Clambakes Private Chef Paella Tagine Packaged goods at the West Tisbury Farmer’s Market 508-645-5000
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www.kitchenporch.com
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M A R T H A ’ S V I N E YA R D
Jan Buhrman Kitchen Porch
HAND CARVED SIGNS & OTHER FINE WOOD CARVINGS
GEOFF SEMONIAN WOOD CARVING Shed 4A MacMillan Wharf, Provincetown 508-237-9404 ~ capecodwoodcarving.com 82
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PROVINCETOWN
A postcard perfect picnic area at Provincetown’s Beech Forest
Photo: Chuck Anzalone
But you’ll look sweet, upon the seat, of a bicycle built for two! Music and lyrics, Harry Dacre 1892 Photo: Dan McKeon
Visit Bird’s Eye View fave PTOWN BIKES for all shapes and sizes of bicycles. Cost is about $18 per day and about $36 if you opt to go as a cozy twosome. ptownbikes.com Photo: Chuck Anzalone
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Excerpt from the Provincetown Bike Trail map, or why you may consider going tandem – “This bicycle trail contains steep hills, sharp curves, low tunnels, and may have windblown sand, among other hazards.”
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By Michelle Haynes id you ever bike with someone who is faster than you – a lot faster than you – and as you are puffing up the hill they are already on the other side, barely breaking a sweat? As I prepare to sing the praises of Provincetown’s five-plus miles of bike trails, a word of warning – there are hills, lots of hills – so if you are an unequal duo when it comes to bike ability, you may want to check out an oldfashioned, but quite practical, bicycle built for two. I checked, and they are available for rent in Provincetown, but whether it is a one- or double-seater, do not pass on the chance to bike through Provincetown’s foliage show. It is simply spectacular. Okay, I admit to bias, but the paved trail takes you through the dunes, to the beach and into the forest. Pick up a free bike trail map at the National Park Service office located just across the road from your Cape Air arrival at the Provincetown Airport, which happens to be located in the heart of the Cape Cod National Seashore. nps.gov
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PROVINCETOWN
IT’S NOT JUST HAIR...IT’S AN EXPERIENCE
5 0 8 . 4 8 7 . 3 500 snipsalon.com
182 commercial st provincetown 50 8 .4 8 7 .3 4 1 1 ptownmassage.com
BREATHE
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LET GO
FEEL GOOD
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W O M E N’S W E E K
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By Fred Biddle
hat do I as a gay man owe to lesbians, who long ago dug holes and set fires on a nearby beach for a fall clambake, an event that grew over the years to become Women’s Week? It may be the mother of themed weeks that reinvented high season here in Provincetown, peeling it into layers and stirring up the result like a cocktail onion, including the biggest party in town. Only Carnival, in mid-August, and October’s transgender-oriented Fantasia Fair are older. In terms of change, “Absolutely, we were the first,” says Elizabeth Gabriel Brooke, owner of The Provincetown Hotel at Gabriel’s, who along with Provincetown’s other women innkeepers and visitors multiplied 200 women from that 1984 clambake into the 2,000 expected for 30th anniversary this Oct. 13-19. Events range from a sunset sail on the schooner Bay Lady II, to an exhaustion of soccer and other sports, and a bookworm’s orgy of readings and signings. Comic Kate Clinton, singer Janis Ian (At Seventeen) and famed jazz singer Suede are among the scheduled performers. Like theme weeks it inspired, Women’s Week has veered between pilgrimage and class reunion for the demographic of Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual and Transgender community that grew up after the 1969 Stonewall Riots. When Women’s Week began, AIDS raged. As their friends were dying, homophobia became chic again. Gay marriage was a generation away. Yet nothing was especially high-minded about that first clambake. It was just a try at extending the season. “Basically, Provincetown sort of fell off the charts after Labor Day,” says Brooke. “Myself, I had a business to support.”
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Singer/Songwriter Zoe Lewis
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PROVINCETOWN Photo: Cheryl Mazak
Suede, featured Women’s Week performer
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Photo: Lloyd Baggs
Rebranding the town with Women’s Week in the low key of Indian summer was a risk. “There was a great deal of controversy about what it should be called,” says Lynn Mogell, coordinator of Women’s Week for the Women Innkeepers and co-owner of Heritage House, a local inn. “Lesbian Week? Women-only Week?” The gamble paid off. The result was not low-key. Up to 6,000 women came each October during the height of it all during the mid-1990s. “We were so successful in creating a celebration of lesbian culture for one week that it has been replicated in other parts of our world,” says Ms. Mogell. Keeping relevant has led Women’s Week to more layered events such as Provincetown Cares, presenting theater to raise money for the local women’s community. This year’s comedy, The Secretaries, concerns a secretarial pool at a lumber mill that kills off the lumberjacks to steal their jackets. Lesbian humor, you see. But experimentation keeps Women’s Week fresh. “One year we organized a lesbian whale watch,” says Ms. Brooke. “A guest asked us ‘How do you tell which ones are lesbians?’” Women’s Week is just one of the theme weeks that links the sometimes prickly family that makes my Provincetown, “like nowhere else,” as our marketing gurus say. Sorry, ladies. I’ll have to crash your clambake. womensweekprovincetown.com
Janis Ian, Women’s Week performer
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“Time doesn’t take away from friendship, nor does separation.” ― Tennessee Williams, Memoirs Photo courtesy of Carl Bissinger, University of Delaware Library Edna Lewis serving dinner guests at Cafe Nicholson, NYC. Tanaquil LeClercq, Donald Windham, Buffie Johnson, Tennessee Williams & Gore Vidal (1949) Illustration: David Chick
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he 9th Annual Tennessee Williams Festival –September 25-28, Provincetown, MA “Every year we try and focus on another facet in the life of Tennessee Williams,” says Festival Director Jeff HallFlavin. “This year we celebrate friendship, and most of our plays are fun, so we expect the festival to take on quite a party atmosphere, with friends sharing wine around the table.” Mr. Hall-Flavin expects one of the highlights of this season to be the performance of In the Summer House, written by Tennessee’s close friend Jane Bowles, and directed by the festival’s own David Kaplan. “Tennessee called it one of the strangest and funniest plays he has ever seen, and actually helped fund the production. We did one act last year and it was a huge hit so we are bringing it back as a full play. We intend to place a tent around the Boatslip Resort pool, and some of the play’s action will happen at the water’s edge in the harbor.” A variety of interesting venues are showcasing the work of America’s most celebrated playwright. Do make the trip to an extraordinary event at a perfect time of year. Find more at twptown.org
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PROVINCETOWN
The Secret is Out! America’s First Destination goes viral. Entertainment & Nightlife Stay & Play Shop Arts & Culture Eat & Drink LGBT
Calendar
iPtown
Travel & Transit Useful Information
Your Provincetown!
on Facebook: Provincetown and on Twitter: @Ptowntourism
Photo: Chuck Anzalone
Beaux Arts Ball
You get to dress in outlandish and outrageous costumes and parade up and down the streets, day and night. No question, in the tiny fishing village at the tip of Cape Cod, the town the U.S. Census Bureau calls the “Gayest town in America,” Halloween is practically a national holiday. Gay, straight or whatever, everyone is welcome to join one of the biggest parties of the year at Provincetown’s historic Town Hall. Get out the sequins for Shawn Nightingale’s Beaux Arts Ball happening November 1st. Lots more at ptown2014.com.
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494 Commercial St, Provincetown, MA 508.487.4800
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Wine, Women, Song and More
GRAPE STOMP & MUSIC FEST AT THE TRURO VINEYARDS Sunday September 21st, 2pm- 6pm Free admission and parking!
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CAPE COD
ALL YOU CAN MEAT! In the style of a Brazilian rodizio (barbeque), traditional gauchos (servers) roam from table-to-table, offering an exquisite selection of over a dozen finely seasoned meats cooked to perfection over natural wood. And the best part? It’s all you can eat! Don’t forget about our all-inclusive salad bar. And remember to save room for our homemade Brazilian desserts.
Brazilian Grill OPEN YEAR ROUND • LUNCH & DINNER
680 Main St, Hyannis • 508.771.0109 www.braziliangrill-capecod.com
H H H
JOHN F. KENNEDY HYANNIS MUSEUM
Experience the Cape Cod Camelot days of President Kennedy, his family and friends. H Special Exhibit 2014
Cape Cod: The Heart and Home of the Kennedy Family
The Kennedy family has always been drawn to Cape Cod and Hyannis Port, especially during the presidency of John F. Kennedy. Get an inside look at the Kennedy home through ilm, images, and decorative displays.
H JFK Hyannis Museum 397 Main Street, Hyannis • (508) 790-3077 • jfkhyannismuseum.org
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Chatham Bars Inn Photos Courtesy of Chatham Bars Inn The Netherlands’ Princess Juliana – Chatham Bars Inn, 1944
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by Rebecca M. Alvin
ape Cod is shaped like an arm jutting out into the Atlantic Ocean. Nestled in what you might call the Cape’s elbow, pointing south into Nantucket Sound, is Chatham, one of the Cape’s 15 distinct towns. While it looks like a quaint New England town, filled with old churches and a quintessential Main Street at its center, there’s more to Chatham than meets the eye. While a daytrip to Chatham for a walk up and down Main Street fulfills nostalgia for ‘the old days,’ with its candy and ice cream shops, bookstores, and the wholesome fun of the weekly town band concert, there is also another side to Chatham, one that caters to affluent vacationers looking for a relaxing time away from their busy, highpressure lives. For these folks, the Chatham Bars Inn, a 25-acre resort property overlooking Pleasant Bay and the mighty Atlantic Ocean is the place to be.
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Having just celebrated its 100th anniversary this past spring, the Chatham Bars Inn has a long history as a refuge for accomplished, successful clientele. According to manager John Speers, in the days before everyone had second homes on the Cape, many of the nation’s elite would spend the entire summer at the Inn. The Rockefeller family frequented this fabulous resort throughout the 30s, 40s, and 50s, as have celebrities throughout the years. The staff, however, is careful about sharing the names of the rich and famous who have stayed there, preferring to protect all of their guests’ privacy. It’s that kind of place. Chatham Bars Inn’s sales and marketing director Steve Sampson, who is also a Cape Cod native and a history buff, is willing to share a story about one royal family that stayed at the Inn. During World War II, part of the Dutch royal family fled to Ottawa, Canada, to avoid the Nazis. In the summer of 1944, Princess Juliana and her three small children went on holiday to the Chatham Bars Inn for roughly two months. Local newspaper reports of the visit quoted the princess, saying she was “simply delighted” with the “absolutely beautiful” view of the Atlantic from [her] “ten-room cottage.” Although, like the town of Chatham in which it resides, Chatham Bars Inn has not changed its historic character, there are some recent additions, such as the 8-acre farm located a couple of towns over in Brewster, which provides nearly all of the produce for the Inn’s five restaurants. But this isn’t so new, actually. Sampson explains, “When the hotel opened there was a 25acre farm as part of it, which ended in the 1930s, I believe. In 2012, we brought it back, coming full circle.” Their fleet of boats has grown to include fishing boats, yachts, and sailboats, including a vessel that
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Photo: Chuck Anzalone
Lobster Fest at the Chatham Bars Inn
Photo: Chuck Anzalone
takes small groups of guests out for whale watching. Another is reserved for the Inn’s fantastic children’s program, taking kids to the outer beaches to treasurehunt where many a shipwreck has occurred. In addition, the Inn has a worldclass spa, with a secluded, adults only swimming pool, private saunas, steam baths, a plethora of ocean-related treatments, and cucumber-wraps (yes, the cucumbers are from their farm), massage appointments, and most importantly, an environment devoted to complete indulgence, relaxation, and connection with Chatham’s natural seaside beauty. Looking back, allowing yourself to be carried away by the nostalgia of old Cape Cod can be a gift, especially when you are in need of a break from the technologyobsessed, workaholic lives many of us lead, but when that nostalgia is combined with the amenities of complete relaxation and the stunning view of the sea, you are able to just absorb a new concept of yourself. Breathe it all in, and rejuvenate in New England style.
Chatham Fish Pier
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C HATHA M , C AP E CO D
Photo Courtesy of Chatham Bars Inn
Photos Courtesy of Chatham Bars Inn Main Street, Chatham
CAPE COD:
THE HEART AND HOME OF THE KENNEDY FAMILY
“I always go to Hyannisport to be revived, to know again the power of the sea and the master who rules over it and all of us.” — John F. Kennedy Photos from the private collection of Robert Luddington, specifically for this exhibit.
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Robert F. Kennedy
he Summer White House, the Kennedy Compound or simply, Hyannisport – it was the Roaring Twenties when Kennedy patriarch Joseph Kennedy purchased the rambling waterfront property that nine decades later continues be home for any number of Kennedy offspring. Football on the green expanse of lawn, sailing off Hyannis Harbor or just lounging on the front porch of one of the most famous homes in America is the focus of a special exhibit at the John F. Kennedy Hyannis Museum. Featured are never before seen photographs and home design samples from the personal interior designer for the Kennedy family. More at jfkhyannismuseum.org
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CAPE COD
John F. Kennedy Hyannis Museum
Oprah’s Favorite Things 2 Years in a Row
Oprah’s Favorite Things 2 Years in a Row
Retail Pie Shop Mon-Sat 8am-6pm Sun 9am-3pm
Spinach and Feta Pie
Dinner Pies, Fruit Pies, Cream Pies, Cookies, Muffins & Pastries
Restaurant
Partner with CapeAbilities, Inc. providing jobs for7am-3pm over 50 disabled adults on Cape Cod. Serving Breakfast & Lunch
®
Order online! centervillepies.com Ask about our XXLarge pies... great for groups of 10+
Restaurant
774-470-1406 centervillepies.com Open 7-Days ~ Seasonally ~ at 7 a.m. 1671 Falmouth Road Serving Breakfast All Day & Lunch (Route 28), Centerville
Pie Shop
Partner with Open 7-Days at 8Inc., a.m. CapeAbilities, Dinner Pies,jobs Fruitfor Pies, Cream Pies, providing disabled adults Cookies, Muffins & Pastries. Wedding
Tarts & Special Occasion Dessert Trays. Call ahead for Pick Up!
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774-470-1406 1671 Falmouth Rd (Rte 28), Centerville
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Block Island Sales & Vacation Rentals Phone: 401-466-8883 info@blockislandproperty.com
2 Lots Mohegan Bluff $3,650,000
Blueberry Hill $1,395,000
Waterfront Grove Point $2,950,000
Southeast $1,975,000
Crescent Beach Cottage $1,200,000
Boathouse $1,565,000
Centrally Located $1,100,000
Ocean & Sunset Views $2,500,000
Gables Inn $2,400,000
Ballard Hall real estate
Ocean Avenue, Block Island, RI 02807 Phone: 401-466-8883 Gail Hall, Principal Broker Judith Cyronak & Blake Phelan, Associate Brokers | Michele Phelan, David Graham, Chelsea Phelan, Licensees RHODE ISLAND
STATE-WIDE
www.blockislandproperty.com
info@blockislandproperty.com
BLOCK ISLAND, RHODE ISLAND
Groundsel Blossoms, Great Salt Pond, Block Island
2014
Lynn’s Dock, Block Island
Photos: Malcom Greenaway
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Spectacular Fall Foliage, a Food Festival, Off-Season Rates, a Zedonk* and perhaps a Roseate Spoonbill Photo courtesy of the Abrams Animal Farm The Abrams Animal Farm, next to the Hotel Manisses, whose menagerie includes emus, camels, a Scottish yak, fainting goats, llamas, alpaca, and zedonk*. The farm is free and open to the public.
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Photo: Kari Curtis
ed Knot and the American Oystercatcher – non birders may not know that Block Island’s geography brings it smack dab on the North American Atlantic Flyway, what Audubon refers to as the “avian superhighway,” for 500-plus bird species, including millions of individual birds. So while you are enjoying the hikes, bike rides and beach walks this autumn, look up and around to see who may be heading south. Located Cape Air minutes from Rhode Island’s TF Green Airport in Providence, fall is a perfect time for a Block Island visit, and do bring an appetite. “Foodies should definitely circle September, for our Annual Taste of Block Island “ says Kathleen Szabo, Executive Director of the Block Island Chamber of Commerce. “In addition to discounts on food and lodging the lighthouses are open, historic tours are available and kids will love the behind the scenes tour of The Abrams Animal Farm, definitely not your usual petting zoo. Pick up a special button for $5 at the Chamber office and enjoy across the island discounts and specials like a complimentary cup of chowder with your dinner,” added Ms. Szabo. blockislandchamber.com *A Zedonk – half donkey, half zebra, awaits your visit to Block Island’s Abrams Animal Farm
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Block Island Real Estate Leader
Locally owned boutique office offering personalized professional service to Block Island sales and rental clients for over 40 years. Block Island Real Estate Resource on all island listings.
Call to schedule showing of any listing.
Leading Sales office in 2013 10 of the 49 sales in 2013 involved Attwood clients.
Local Knowledge We are proud of our long-‐term Island ties and enjoy working with others who also treasure the magic of our island. Contact us anytime Chapel Street office, Email, Phone or Website
Susan Park Weissman, Head Broker, Owner Linda Spak, Assoc. Broker Jeannie Weissman Anderson, Agent
460 Chapel Street, Block Island, RI 02807
(401) 466 – 5582 www.attwoodrealestate.com attwoodrealestate@verizon.net
P H I L L I P S R E A L E S TAT E www.phillipsonbi.com 401-466-8806 or phillips@riconnect.com
Great place to kick off a sightseeing tour of the island
HISTORICAL SOCIETY MUSEUM 2014 FALL EXHIBIT “Surrounded by the Sea: The Block Island Story” On-going 3-D slide shows & scheduled showings of Island related movies The Museum Shop/Gallery features maps, postcards, prints & t-shirts FALL HOURS 11 am - 4 pm weekends or by appointment ADMISSION $6 adults, $4 seniors & students Members and children FREE SAVE THE DATE • Sept. 20th - 3 p.m. Annual Meeting • Special tours available all year round
401-466-2481 • blockislandhistorical.org FALL
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BLOCK ISLAND, RHODE ISLAND
BLOCK ISLAND, RI
A pristine house in a park-like setting. Designed by architect Allen Moore of Newburyport, MA. Top of the line materials & workmanship. Expansive rooms with 9 ft ceilings & all luxuriously furnished. Antique heartpine and marble floors, A/C, 5 fireplaces. A completely turnkey property.
Photo Courtesy of the Block Island Chamber of Commerce
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Photo: Kari Curtis
Fall on Block Island
BLOCK ISLAND, RHODE ISLAND
Hotel Manisses, Circa 1880
Touches of the past... the comforts of today. Old-fashioned hospitality, timeless ocean views, comfortable rooms, enjoyable dining. We’re close to town, but pleasantly away from the hubbub.
The 1661 Inn & Hotel Manisses Open year-round • 401-466-2421 • blockislandresorts.com
Photo Courtesy of the Block Island Tourism Council
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BLOCK ISLAND Photos: Kari Curtis
Fall on Block Island
OFFSHORE PROPERTY LLC Real Estate Sales & Vacation Rentals
Block Island, Rhode Island Let us help you be here…
P.O. Box 1210 | 448 Ocean Ave. Block Island, RI 02807
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401-‐466-‐5446 | offprop@verizon.net | www.offshorepropertyllc.com
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2014
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The Spring House Hotel, Block Island Photos Courtesy of the Spring House Hotel Frank DiBiase at the Spring House Hotel farm stand
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magine sitting on the expansive porch of an historic New England island retreat feeling the breeze come off of the Atlantic. In front of you is a plate of crisp fresh heirloom tomatoes and squash blossoms set amidst a plate of fresh picked–from just outside the front door–field greens; a just caught Block Island sea bass roasted with fresh herbs and garlic; and a dessert of baked—you guessed it, also just picked—strawberry rhubarb cobbler,” says Gary Springer, of Spring House Hotel, on Block Island. Add to the above description an unbroken view of the Atlantic from the Adirondack chairs lined along the green expanse of lawn or from the historic front porch. Block Island’s Spring House Hotel is a true treasure whose notable guests include Ulysses S. Grant, Mark Twain and
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BLOCK ISLAND, RHODE ISLAND
Chef CJ Correnti, Frank DiBiase, Frank DiBiase, Jr. – Spring House Hotel
far more recently Billy Joel. Cuisine offered at the 150-year-old Victorian beauty specializes in fresh and local and, according to owner Frank DiBiase, their farm to table dinners were way ahead of the current trend. “We have been using our own fresh grown lettuce for the past twenty-five years. We grow everything from seed here and our guests can expect that their tomatoes, eggplant, cucumbers and turnips are from our garden.” A family run hotel, Mr. DiBiase can be found around the hotel property, chatting with guests and enjoying a view that never grows old. “I have to admit, fall is my favorite time of year here on Block Island. All of the restaurants and stores are open yet there are no lines and there is certainly a more laid back atmosphere. The weather is usually spectacular and to tell the truth, the ocean in fall is warmer here than it is on the mainland.” Like most Block Island accommodations, Spring House offers special fall rates that start at around $125 per night and include a continental breakfast. A tip: Take your breakfast to the porch and catch the morning light over the Atlantic. For a preview, check out the live web cam page at springhousehotel.com
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Let Us help you discover the enchantment of Island Living
Sales and Rentals
Block Island Realty Kate Atwater Butcher, Broker 596 Corn Neck Road Block Island RI 02807 401-466-5887 www.birealty.com 105
VERMONT
Around the Corner & Around the World
Springfield • “Clover Hill,” a handsome 1831 4BDRM, 3BA Federal style home set on 163.9+/- acres. Double stair access to 2nd floor bedrooms, most with fireplaces. Property also includes a studio, guest cottage and multi-purpose barn. $1,985,000
Woodstock • “The Blue Horse Inn” continues traditions of hospitality in a Federal style residence combining 19th Century design and 21st Century technology. Graciously providing quality lodging and hosting community celebrations. $2,100,000
Pomfret • “Pine Hollow Farm” is a Greek Revival VT farmstead situated on 163.8+/- acres. The home offers spacious gathering rooms, abundant bedrooms and baths. Property features a pond, antique barn and miles of woodland trails. $975,000
Willamson-Group.com • 802.457.2000 Successfully Selling Real Estate For Over 35 Years 24 Elm • Woodstock VT • Each Office is Independently Owned and Operated
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VERMONT/NEW HAMPSHIRE
RUTLAND, VERMONT
Photos Courtesy of the Rutland Recreation Center
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ne of the biggest Halloween parades in New England, some say the entire country, happens in Rutland, Vermont. The theme is almost always super heroes, so if you have one of those in your family, jump on a Cape Air plane and join the party that begins at 6:30 pm on October 25th. This is a biggie, lasting over an hour down through Rutland’s commercial center.
‘Super Hero’ Jacob is ready for the Rutland parade
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VERMONT/NEW HAMPSHIRE
WE WANT YOU–
LEAF PEEPERS GOOD WITH A CAMERA
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e want to capture fall’s brilliant colors in New England, Saranac Lake, Acadia National Park, the Adirondacks, Montana, Missouri and anywhere Cape Air flies. Send your fun high res pictures, preferably with people having fun (no posed shots, please). Have fun with it, and if we choose your shots you win two round trips tickets on Cape Air, good for anywhere we fly! You have lots of time, for the deadline is 2015!
Biking in Millstone, Vermont
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Send high resolution shots to: birdseyeviewmagazine@gmail.com
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CORNISH, NH Formerly the home of J.D. Salinger. An enchanting setting. Dramatic views of Mt. Ascutney. Stream. Groomed trails. Apartment above garage. $679,000
LYME, NH Lovely 4 bedroom cape, meticulously maintained. Hardwood floors, 4 brs. 3.5 baths. 1st floor master. Deck overlooks swimming pond. Views of Skiway. $725,000
Quality service... CANAAN, NH Gracious colonial on 5.75+/-ac of open land. View. First floor master suite, fabulous screened porch. Updated throughout. 5 BR, 2.5 baths. $399,000
LYME, NH Classic cape with cheerful spaces. 3 brs, 2 baths. Walk to everything location. Large backyard for gardening and fun. Great location, great buy. $278,000
HANOVER, NH This house has cherry floors, central ac, 1st floor radiant heat, a wood fireplace, and large screened porch! Just a few minutes to town. $799,000
ORFORD, NH Immaculate 3 bdrm 3 bath home on 19+ acres – ideal for the equestrian-minded. 5 stall barn, heated tack room, fenced pastures and trails. $675,000
stands the test of time. On The Green Lyme, NH 03768 603-795-4816 •
FAIRLEE,VT Stunning, fully restored classic Lake Morey home with 4 bedrooms, 4.5 baths and fabulous sweeping views of the lake. In-law apartment, 1000 sq. feet of covered porches, dock. $995,000
Allen Street Hanover, NH 03755 603-643-4200 •
www.marthadiebold.com
HANOVER, NH Airy open spaces and stunning westerly views. Gorgeous gardens. Dramatic master suite, 4 bdrms, 2.5 baths, huge family room. $995,000
Photo: Nancy Nutile-McMenemy | www.photosbynanci.com
Photo: Nancy Nutile-McMenemy | www.photosbynanci.com Photo: Nancy Nutile-McMenemy | www.photosbynanci.com
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Los Lonely Boys
ie in the face slapstick was once the order of the day at the oh-so-elegant Lebanon Opera House, once a Roaring Twenties vaudeville house. Today the 800-seat theatre is one of the largest venues for the arts, serving both New Hampshire and Vermont in the Upper Connecticut River Valley. Located just minutes from your Cape Air arrival in Lebanon, New Hampshire, this season features quite the eclectic lineup, from folk to opera. lebanonoperahouse.org
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The Lebanon Opera House
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NEW HAMPSHIRE/VERMONT
Post. Beam. Dream.™
Bruce Hornsby
Located just minutes from your Cape Air arrival in Lebanon, New Hampshire
(800) 258-9786 www.YankeeBarnHomes.com Mary Chapin Carpenter
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Photo courtesy of VisitAdirondacks.com
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THE ADIRONDACKS
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The Loj, Heart Lake in the heart of the Adirondacks
illions of acres across forty-six summits of what is referred to as High Peaks Wilderness, along with a thousand-plus waterways; the Adirondacks await you. Cape Air’s nonstop flights to Saranac Lake from Boston’s Logan Airport put you smack-dab in the middle of the most beautiful terrain imaginable, especially at this time of year. It’s perfect geography for the adventure seekers, while the rest of us should reach out right now to the Adirondack Mountain Club (known as the ADK). Formed in the early twenties, this group, around thirtythousand strong, is committed to the preservation of the Adirondack region and offers an endless list of things to do and places to stay, including Bird’s Eye View favorite, the Loj. “We have rooms with bunk beds for families or, if you choose, a private room for couples,” says spokesman Robert Rezin. “Located on Heart Lake, we have a full-time chef, and if you want to get fancy, Lake Placid restaurants
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are twenty minutes away. Nearby Mount Jo is around a mile hike over easy terrain, and offers one of the best views around of the high peaks.” It is also open year-round, offering cross-country skiing and snowshoeing, and prices start around $69 per night with breakfast, to around $144 for a private room. Now you see why it is one of our favorites. Do not wait to book, as this is not a secret. adk.org
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Mother Nature’s Splendor – To Go
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A plein air moment with artist Sandra Hildreth
e chose late September for our studio tour, for that is when our foliage is usually at the absolute peak of color,” says artist Sandra Hildreth. On September 27th and 28th the Saranac Lake area hosts an artists’ studio tour – the 2014 Artist at Work Studio Tour – featuring fifty artists and galleries and, if the weather cooperates, some artists like Sandra Hildreth will be working outside. “I get into a zone when I am painting and I find myself concentrating on what I see and how to capture what I am seeing on to the canvas, so often times, in spite of answering questions from onlookers, I am really unaware of anyone behind me,” says Hildreth. Almost all of the paintings are for sale and yes, they will be too wet for your Cape Air flight home. But the galleries are happy to ship to your door, making it easy to bring the autumnal splendor of the Adirondacks home. Ms. Hildreth says prices run the gamut from $100 all the way up. A full schedule of the drive/walk Studio Tour is at saranaclakeartworks.com Sue Young from Youngs Studio in Jay, NY
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SARANAC LAKE, NEW YORK
Cheri Cross at the Jay Craft Center
Adirondack Artist, Pete Seward
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FORT LEONARD WOOD, MISSOURI Photos Courtesy of Fort Leonard Wood
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Our thanks to the U.S. Army Public Affairs Office
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eventy years ago the Cape Air destination of Fort Leonard Wood, Missouri was a basic training post. Today, this premier U.S. Army Center of Excellence trains more than 80,000 military and civilians each year, including joint training missions for the U.S. Marine Corps, Navy, and Air Force. In addition, all Department of Defense training for earthmoving, truck driving, civil support, and first responders happens at Fort Leonard Wood, along with the 102nd U.S. Army Reserve Training Division and a large Navy Seabee Detachment. Elements of the Coast Guard train here as well. Missouri is considered one of the most militaryfriendly states in the nation with legislation allowing for greater access to education; continuing Missouri Military Family Relief Fund to assist National Guard and Reserve Families; unemployment for spouses who must leave their jobs to accompany military spouses on a military transfer; assisting veterans in educational pursuits through the Returning Heroes Education Act; and providing a graduated relief from state income tax on military retired pay.
A Fort Leonard Wood training exercise
From the entire Cape Air team, a sincere “Happy Veterans Day” to the Fort Leonard Wood community. We thank you for your service to our country.
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Vietnam Veterans Memorial – Washington, DC
Fort Leonard Wood is home to the Army’s largest, most diverse Non-Commissioned Officers Academy.
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JJ Lane – Be Lovely Photography
GETTING “ABSOLUTLI GOOSED” IN ST. LOUIS
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By Ann Murphy
usty Nails, Moscow Mules, Manhattans, Side Cars and Martinis, vestiges of, ‘back in the day,’ when Mad Men liquid lunches ruled and business was done on the back of a cocktail napkin. Fast forward to 2014, and the cocktail craze is stronger than ever, especially at Absolutli Goosed in St. Louis. Owned and operated by Robin Schubert and Staci Stift, the downtown boîte with 80 different cocktails on their menu, Absolutli Goosed has won Best Martini in St. Louis 10 times. What about the name? “It’s inspired by Absolut, Stoli and Grey Goose vodkas,” said Ms. Schubert.
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Robin and Staci are now life partners as well as business partners, and met at the bar. Prior to owning the business, Robin tended bar and Staci was a customer who frequently ordered Cosmos. They clicked. Robin manages the bar and daily operations and Staci takes care of everything else including bookkeeping, ordering and paying bills. Absolutli Goosed opened in 2002 during the west coast martini craze and still offers every type of martini imaginable as well as classic cocktails, wine and the local St. Louis beer “Shlafly.” Craft drinks are the latest in the cocktail movement touting fresh ingredients such as homemade syrups, fruits and fresh herbs. With an herb garden on the bar’s outdoor patio, Robin and Staci don’t have to go far for the freshest mint for their mojitos. “We also make fresh adult lemonade using herbs from our garden such as basil and mint. We have more mint than we know what to do with,” said Robin. Absolutli Goosed is a favorite of the LGBT community and allies alike. Staci says that it’s “everybody’s bar and we’ll take anybody’s money.” Absolutli Goosed is open Mondays through Fridays from 4 pm – 1 am and on Saturdays from 12 pm – 1 am. absolutligoosed.com
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MISSOURI
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M O N TA N A
Photo Courtesy of Montana Fashion Week
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ith Cape Air’s $100 round trip fare from the towns of Havre, Glendive, Sidney and Wolf Point, this is a great time for a fall escape to the airline’s hub city of Billings, where there is pretty much something for everyone.
Miss Montana 2012 Alexis Wineman co-hosts Montana’s Fashion Week, September 26-28, at the MetraPark Pavilion. The event kicks off with a parade in downtown Billings. “We want to start a fashion movement and creative positive change. Montana is an awesome place to live – why not look awesome? You can rock fashion no matter where you live and work,” says event producer Jean Rojas. montanafashionweek.com
The sensory theatrical production Blue Man Group happens on October 21st & 22nd at 7:30 pm at the Alberta Bair Theater. albertabairtheater.org
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Steve Simonsen, describing the waters of the Caribbean
U.S. VIRGIN ISLANDS
“The water is so clear it’s like swimming in a martini glass.”
Photo: Steve Simonsen
Photo: Steve Simonsen
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Jeffrey Lehmann of PBS’s Weekend Explorer
ward-winning photographer Steve Simonsen does have a way with words, not to mention a magnificent eye for both still photography and videos. The Bird’s Eye View is proud to list him as a contributor. Look for him soon on the PBS Emmy award winning show, Weekend Explorer, with host Jeffrey Lehmann. The fast-paced show takes viewers to exotic vacation destinations around the world and showcases both ‘what to do?’ and the location’s history, in a way that is anything but boring. Enjoy a llama trek in Santa Fe, New Mexico, house boating on Lake Mojave, Nevada, disco dancing in Hong Kong and, for the United States Virgin Islands, snorkeling with the master of underwater photography, Steve Simonsen. “We called upon the great folks at Virgin Islands Ecotours and, after snorkeling in St. John’s Trunk Bay, we spent some time at
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Caneel Bay’s Honeymoon Beach. I told them they had to experience St. Croix with perfect snorkeling sites on Buck Island and at Cane Bay. We spotted quite a bit, including barracudas and giant turtles. We squeezed in a lot, and it is always fun to hang out with a film crew more accomplished than I am.” No air date for the show yet, but you can keep up with the schedule at pbs.org/weekendexplorer
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U.S. VIRGIN ISLANDS O: 340-776-6666 F: 340-693-8499
www.IslandiaRealEstate.com | www.SeaGlassProperties.com
Villa Lantano
$5,900,000 | 5 Bed | 5.5 Bath | 5,568 sqft
Magnificent North Shore views over Peter Bay to Jost Van Dyke from this spacious home in the Upper Peter Bay. Features include large pool deck with adjoining spa, and water views from every room!
Rivendell
$5,250,000 | 4 Bed | 4.5 Bath | 6,350 sqft
Mediterranean style villa is located less than 300 feet from a Sandy beach and only minutes to pristine St. John Beaches. This elegant home offers sweeping views towards Jost and the National Park.
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ST. C RO IX
Fly Jet Blue from Boston to San Juan, connect with Jet Blue or Cape Air to St Croix
St. Croix, US Virgin Islands. No passport required.
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800 255-3881
www.TheBuccaneer.com
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U.S. VIRGIN ISLANDS
Photos: Steve Simonsen Kayakers with Virgin Islands Ecotours at Honeymoon Beach, St. John
Virgin Gorda
St. Thomas
Mayag端ez
Tortola
Culebra
San Juan
Anguilla
Vieques St. Croix
Nevis
PHOTO C A PT ION COR R ECT ION
Dakota Bev
Shelli Olive
In our last isssue we confused the names of two beautiful women at Ridge to Reef Farm, St. Croix. Our sincere regrets for the error.
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The Cane Bay Dive Shop, St. Croix
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Virgin Gorda
Photos: Todd VanSickle
By Michelle Haynes
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at Virgin – we can blame Virgin Gorda’s rather in-elegant moniker on Christopher Columbus. According to those in the know, the explorer thought the island looked like a reclining pregnant woman with Virgin Gorda Peak as her stomach and the boulders of the famed Baths as her toes. Not quite sure about the Virgin part but the name did stick. Today Virgin Gorda is one of the most popular islands in the British Virgin Islands and also just happens to be Cape Air’s newest Caribbean destination, minutes from San Juan, Puerto Rico. Laidback does not do justice to this quiet island with boasting rights to some of the most spectacular beaches in the world. A personal favorite is Devil’s Bay, your pot of gold after making your way around the watery labyrinth of boulders, rope walks and ladders that make up Virgin Gorda’s greatest natural attraction, known worldwide as The Baths. For those in fairly good health (and no, you do not have to be an athlete), traversing the Baths is totally doable. Wear water shoes and a cover-up that can get wet, and go for it. You will not be disappointed. After about twenty minutes of climbing in and out of watery grottos you swim in the cleanest and most exquisite waters imaginable. After a dozen plus trips to the Baths I thought I had seen it all, but just past popular Devil’s Bay is a tiny stretch of beach appropriately named Stoney Bay. Private and tucked away, this is a gorgeous hideaway for your own Burt and Ava moment. A vital tip for the Baths – go first thing in the morning before 9:00 am or late in the afternoon after 4:00 pm, otherwise, to channel Yogi Berra, “It’s too crowded, no one goes there anymore.”
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NOW I LAY ME DOWN TO SLEEP – PICKS FOR VIRGIN GORDA
Offering the Ultimate in Luxury for Half a Century
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uests at Virgin Gorda’s sumptuous Rosewood Little Dix Bay Resort can give a nod of thanks to Laurence Rockefeller who bought the land in the 1950’s with a mission – no high rise resort and no disturbance of the landscape, build an unobtrusive luxury resort. No question on the realization of his dream, for the architecture blends seamlessly with the surrounding abundance of palms and tropical flowers. As for the beach, it is a half-mile powdery white crescent of total perfection, offering all of the amenities you could ever want. In fact the word ‘want’ has little application at Little Dix …This is pamper city, from the beach to the award winning restaurants, to the full service spa, along with the endless list of resort activities. The service is simply impeccable. Part of the Rosewood Hotels & Resorts, Little Dix Bay is about total luxury, attracting a worldwide cadre of returning guests. Bring the kids, for they have a chock-a block full 2,000 square foot Children’s Center, so no guilt when you drop them off and find some time for yourselves. Romance, girlfriend getaway or just time alone, Little Dix has a variety of packages to choose from. Off-season rates happen in October with rooms starting at around $348 per night. You can check for specials and packages at littledixbay.com.
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Photos: Todd VanSickle
LITTLE DIX BAY, VIRGIN GORDA
VIRGIN GORDA
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Playtime at Fischer’s Cove Beach Hotel Photos: Todd VanSickle
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ravelers are often wary of any hotel described as “modest and affordable.” In many cases they would be right, but Virgin Gorda’s Fischer’s Cove Beach Hotel manages to stay budget friendly while still remaining a tropical jewel. A blur of colorful flora and fauna lines the walkway to your, yes the word applies, modest room. It is clean, albeit simple, with a small fridge, satellite television and, in a few cases, air conditioning. The best part
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is the beautiful stretch of beach, rightly named Paradise Beach, alongside the award winning openair restaurant and lively bar. They also have a cozy area with leave a book-take a book shelves lining the walls. Sunday brunch and live music make this a great choice, with nightly rates right now at $175 or $650 per week. High season rates (after mid-December) average closer to $245 per night for cottages, and $995 for a week. fischerscove.com
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VIRGIN GORDA
Fischer’s Cove Beach Hotel
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BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS
Explore Tranquility
Discover Time
Redefine Escape
Extraordinary villas in the tranquil seclusion of a beachfront resort. www.surfsong.net
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GETTING HIGH ON TORTOLA: SAGE MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK Photo courtesy of the British Islands Toursim Board
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By Susan Zaluski fter a few days on the beach (and one-too-many coconut concoctions at the bar), my body is aching for a reprieve from my overdose on sun-seeking and rum-drinking. I finally manage to pull myself from my typical spot on the sand at Tortola’s Cane Garden Bay somewhere between Myett’s and Quito’s, swapping out my well-worn flip flops for the sneakers that have remained at the bottom of my duffel bag for too long. I have one goal on my mind on this hot, sunny Tortola afternoon: I want to get high. To be precise (and I know what you were thinking, ahem, minds out of the gutter, please), I want to reach 1,716 feet: Tortola’s highest peak and home to Sage Mountain National Park. Armed with a water bottle and mosquito-repellant, I point my rental vehicle upward in the direction of Sage Mountain. I wander into the Mountain Top View Restaurant and Gift Shop at Sage Mountain’s entrance, where the owner-chef, Jim gives me a photocopied map of the Park before I set off. A mere 5 minutes from the blazing sun of the parking lot, I enter the side gate leading to the trail system, and I feel the temperature instantly drop, as if I’ve just opened the door on a well-air conditioned
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room. I watch the landscape’s rapid transformation to old-growth cloud forest, as I advance along the narrow path. The terrain contains the most brilliant green hues that I’ve encountered on Tortola, and I trod along a carpet of emeraldcolored moss and ferns, while giant elephant- ear vines twist their way from the forest understory, meandering over rocks, wrapping around thick, twisty trees and reaching skyward as if in an upward race to catch an irresistible glimpse of the sun and the mountain’s renowned panoramic views. Sage Mountain National Park has 12 trails and can accommodate the needs of all categories of hikers – from reluctant to ruthless. Sage Moutain’s Peak (1716 feet) is the highest point in the entirety of the Virgin Islands (USVI & BVI combined), with most of the park being at over 1,000 feet. Donated to the BVI Government by American entrepreneur and Virgin Islands’ philanthropist Laurance Rockefeller, Sage Mountain was declared as the BVI’s first National Park in 1964. And it’s a good thing this piece of paradise was preserved. You feel as if you’re on top of the world at Sage Mountain, where visitors are afforded remarkable views of the BVI’s tiny
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BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS
Photos: Todd VanSickle
islands, which glow in radiant greens and blues. I spend about two hours hiking in the park, and my favorite parts include the “Mountain Rainforest Trail.” Strictly speaking, Sage Mountain’s forest just misses the mark of qualifying as a rain forest, but the right climate and topographical features create significant rainfall as the warm air rises and then cools as it passes, dropping heaps of moisture on the forest. The park offers an excellent example of old-growth forest, and species typical to Caribbean rainforests thrive in this environment. The forest, depths of the “Henry Adams Loop” are even more enticing, with its steep, rickety wooden staircase, 100-foot tall buttonwood trees and its giant Banyan (wild fig) tree, dripping with aerial roots, bromeliads and ferns. Enjoying the coolness of the shade, I marvel at how the cooing of doves (Tortola’s namesake bird) and the raucous calls of Pearly-eyed thrashers provide the perfect soundtrack to my wooded wanderings. Time seems to stand still as butterflies flutter overhead and the watchful eyes of anole lizards, clinging in gravity-defying stances on the trunks of bulletwood, white cedar and mahogany trees stare back at me from throughout the forest. I leave Sage Mountain, and am ready for my downward journey to sea level. On my way down “Windy Hill,” I’m taken by the slogan posted on the sign outside of the Bananakeet Cafe that reads “The Higher You Get... the Better the View.” I pull over, and make it just in time to enjoy their infamous happy hour and take in their extraordinary view. It will always be sweet by the sea in Tortola, but I marvel at how great it is to be on top of the world.
TORTOLA/VIRGIN GORDA A TRANQUIL HAVEN Where iconic luxury blends with the untouched wilderness of Virgin Gorda
888 ROSEWOOD | rosewoodhotels.com/little-dix-bay-virgin-gorda
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W is for WOW in Vieques
Photo courtesy of the W Retreat and Spa
Photo: Kelly Thompson
What you do not see right away are the rooms. The buildings blend seamlessly with the landscape, giving emphasis to your feeling of a true Caribbean escape. The openair lobby, the ‘Living Room’ (in W parlance) along with your rooms, are all eclectically furnished but cozy in a hip and edgy fashion. This is certainly not your usual beachside hotel. The service is above and beyond, offering a number of amenities, including Bird’s Eye View favorite Black Beard Sports, on site to arrange all of your island excursions. There’s absolutely no need for a car here as the W provides shuttle service to the t takes literally just minutes to get from San Juan’s Luis Munoz nearby village of Esperanza. If you International Airport to the 21-mile-long island of Vieques. Shortly want to stay put, you have the W’s after landing you are whisked into the tiny airport’s private W full service spa, award-winning Airport Lounge for a cool cloth and a welcome drink and snack restaurants, and yoga on the beach. while your bag is whisked from the plane to a waiting van. Minutes Fall rates are among the lowest later, and I do mean minutes, you enter the massive baronial doors of the of the year, starting at around $200 W Retreat and Spa. per night. If you have been saving Slowly exhale – here is your wow moment. The sun streams through those Starwood points, now is the wide open expanse, bearing little resemblance to a hotel lobby. The your chance. The W is a Starwood crystal Caribbean stretches before you, swimming pool to your right, Resort. wvieques.com palm trees and beach grass to your left and everywhere you look – any manner of chaise, chair or beach bed.
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Best Kept Secret... Fall in Vieques By Kelly Thompson
Photo: Kelly Thompson
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or the next two months Vieques slows down to a leisurely pace. What bikini to wear today and which secluded stretch of white sand and turquoise water to visit is about as stressful as it will get. Take a book to the beach, enjoy an afternoon cocktail, and dine watching the sunset. Repeat the next day (in a different bikini). The beauty of Vieques is in full bloom during the early autumn months with the brilliant flamboyant trees vivid red and orange flowers dotting the hills, and avocados falling from the trees like rain. If you are fortunate enough to be here this time of year, look for roadside vendors or individuals selling quenepas – sometimes referred to as the Spanish lime, a fruit to pop in your mouth and suck on like a hard candy. Or, soak it in rum to make Vieques’ traditional alcoholic beverage that the locals call Bilí. Speaking of Bilí, aside from being a rum infused tasty cocktail, it is also a restaurant in the seaside town of Esperanza, and an absolute must if you want to experience authentic Puerto Rican food with an ocean view. Chef Eva Bolivar creates exciting culinary delights with local ingredients and the catch of the day. Try the Yuca Mofongitos with cilantro cream sauce or ahi tuna topped on a fried rice pancake. Pair it with mojito and you are in the autumnal groove, tropical style. Or, in the evening, make your way over to Next Course for their eclectic menu and romantic ambiance. Try the local lobster. You won’t be disappointed. bilirestaurant.com
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VIEQUES
Dining at Next Course
caribbean unexpected
explore more 787 741 4100 wvieques.com
discover new textures in vieques island, puerto rico where arrival is escape
Š2012 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, W and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates.
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ANGUILLA Far from the maddening crowd – The Caribbean Island of Anguilla – an off the grid escape featuring beach perfection. Photos cannot capture the feel of the Island’s renowned beaches. A velvet carpet of powdery white sand combining tiny flakes of white coral and pearl shells, Anguilla is a beach lover’s paradise. Plan your visit now at ivisitanguilla.com
Shoal Bay Photo: Chuck Anzalone
ANGUILLA
ANGUILLA, BRITISH WEST INDIES
Meads Bay, AI-2640 Anguilla Phone: 264-497-6881 Reservations Only: 866-270-3764 e-mail: carimar@carimar.com www.carimar.com CERTIFICATE OF EXCELLENCE
If you like the beach, you’ll LOVE Carimar. FALL
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CAPE AIR EVERYWHERE
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WE ’ VE GOT CON N EC TION S !
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CAPE AIR’S NEW YORK CONNECTION Catch Cape Air’s convenient service between Midtown Manhattan and Lebanon, NH, Provincetown, MA or the islands of Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard, all via Westchester County Airport. Using our direct ground transportation between the airport and W 35th Street and 8th Avenue makes it simple as can be. capeair.com 800-Cape-Air
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PLEASE MEET THE PEOPLE WHO MAKE THE BIRD’S EYE VIEW POSSIBLE. EAT IN THEIR RESTAURANTS, SLEEP IN THEIR BEDS, AND ENJOY. AND WHATEVER YOU DO PLEASE TELL THEM WE SENT YOU! ALL OF US SINCERELY APPRECIATE YOUR SUPPORT. MAINE
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Acadia National Park Tours.....24 Acadia Realty Group.................47 Aragosta Restaurant..................49 Atlantic Oceanside......................35 The Bar Harbor Inn....................35 The Blue Hill Inn........................50 The Bluenose Inn........................37 Breakwater Vineyards...............17 The Burning Tree........................29 Camden Real Estate Co.............19 Cappy’s.........................................18 CoastWise Realty........................21 The Colony..................................29 The Country Inn.........................19 Downeast Maine Vacation Rentals......................................42 The East Wind Inn......................13 The Factory Tavern.....................49 Fathom Restaurant.....................32 Fiore Olive Oils & Vinegars......27 Fisherman’s Friend Restaurant...............................49 Galyn’s Restaurant.....................29 Grand Harbor Inn.......................15 Great Maine Breakfast...............37 House Wine.................................24 The Inns at Blackberry Common.............17 The Inn at Ocean’s Edge............23 Jackson Laboratory.....................31 Kimball Shop & Boutique.........40 The Lobster Pound & Andy’s Brew Pub...................23 The Lindenwood Inn.................39 Lisa Hall Jewelry.........................40 The Lookout................................51 Maine Environmental Research Institute....................................50 The Manor Inn............................43 Martha Laitin Buyer’s Broker.....23 Naturalist’s Notebook...............29 The Norumbega..........................21 Oli’s Trolley.................................35
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Owls Head Transportation Museum...................................20 Owls Head General Store..........20 Pearson Legacy Gallery.............51 Pentagöet Inn & Restaurant......45 Point Lookout..............................11 Red Sky Restaurant....................39 Rheal Day Spa.............................11 Rockport Market Place..............13 Riverside Cafe.............................47 Sail Acadia...................................33 Salt Meadow Properties............50 Sara Sara’s....................................45 Schooner Olad.............................21 Seafood Ketch..............................39 Seal Cove Auto Museum...........24 Star Gallery..................................40 Tea House 278.............................27 Trade Winds Inn.........................19 Trenton Bridge Lobster Pound..........................................31 Wendell Gilley Museum..............39 Window Panes...............................33
NANTUCKET Arnos Restaurant...........................65 Bennett Witte Real Estate.............66 Brass Lantern Inn...........................59 Capt. Tom’s Charters......................7 Compass Rose Real Estate...........58 Easy Street Cantina.......................61 Faregrounds & Pudley’s Pub......59 The Gallery at Four India St.....66 Geronimo’s of Nantucket..........58 Housefitters Nantucket..............148 J. Pepper Frazier Company.......67 Johnstons Cashmere.....................61 Macdonald & Wood Sotheby’s Realty.....................59 Mariner House............................63 Maury People Sotheby’s Realty.........................................2 Michael Kane Lightship Baskets.........................................55
The Mystic.........................................7 Nantucket Bake Shop...................61 Nantucket Coffee Roasters..........63 Nantucket Disc Golf......................60 NantucketStock.com.....................57 Nantucket Windmill Auto Rental...........................................69 Nobby Clothes Shop..................55 Periwinkle B&B...........................57 Shepherd Real Estate....................57 Sosebee Studio Fine Art...............66 Susan Lister Locke Gallery..........63 Thai House......................................66 The UPS Store.................................59 Val Maitino Antiques.................69 Windwalker Real Estate............73
MARTHA’S VINEYARD C McManus Realty Group........74 Claudia.........................................81 Clarion Inn...................................74 Eisenhauer Gallery.......................3 Featherstone Center for the Arts.....................................80 Harbor View Hotel.....................74 Harborside Realty......................81 Island Art Gallery.......................80 Karen Overtoom Real Estate...............................79 Kitchen Porch..............................81 Martha’s Vineyard Buyer Agents...........................74 Martha’s Vineyard Museum.....79 Polly Hill Arboretum.................80 Suzanne Lanzone & Daughters Real Estate...............................81 Vineyard Harbor Motel.............80
PROVINCETOWN/TRURO 8 Dyer Hotel....................................85 Anchor Inn Beach House.............89 Bubula’s by the Bay.......................85 Carpe Diem/Namaste Spa...........85 Christina’s Jewelry........................82 Geoff Semonian Wood Carving.......................................82
B I R D’S
EYE
VIEW
CAPE COD
Phillips Real Estate........................99 Spring House Hotel....................103 Sullivan Real Estate.....................105
VERMONT Robert Wallace Real Estate........106 Sugar & Spice...............................106 Vermont Horse Country & Real Estate.........................108 Williamson Group Sotheby’s Realty...................106
Brazilian Grill.................................91 Centerville Pie Co..........................95 Chatham Sign Shop......................91 JFK Hyannis Museum..................91 Yellow Umbrella Books................91
Martha Diebold Real Estate....109 Yankee Barn Homes.................111
BOSTON
NEW YORK
Salon Mario Russo.........................57
RHODE ISLAND The 1661 Inn & Hotel Manisses...................................101 Attwood Real Estate.....................99 Ballard Hall Real Estate................96 Beach Real Estate.........................101 Block Island Realty......................105 Historical Society Museum.........99 Island Inns.......................................99 Offshore Properties LLC............102
NEW HAMPSHIRE
Adirondack Outfitters.............115 Guide Boat Realty.....................115
CARIBBEAN: THE U.S. VIRGIN ISLANDS The Buccaneer...........................124 Calypso Realty..........................123 Cottages by the Sea..................124 Inter Island Boat Services, Inc...123 Islandia Real Estate..................123 Palms at Pelican Cove.................124
THE BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS British Virgin Islands Tourism..................................133 Charterport Yachts...................136 Fischer’s Cove Hotel/ Restaurant................................129 Fort Burt Hotel/Marina............136 Heritage Inn/ Bananakeet Café.....................132 IslandMagic.com.........................131 Mahogany Car Rentals...............131 Maria’s by the Sea........................132 Rosewood Little Dix Bay...........136 Sol Y Sombra.............................129 Speedy’s Ferry...........................129 Surfsong Resort.........................132
VIEQUES Black Beard Sports....................139 W Vieques Island Retreat & Spa......................................139
ANGUILLA Bird of Paradise Villa...............141 Carimar Beach Club.................141 Wendell Connor’s Car Rentals............................141
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veryone loves a bargain, especially when it comes to airfares. Do not miss the latest and greatest when it come to Cape Air/Nantucket The best way to hear about special airfares and promotions is to join Cape Airlines fare sales. LogAir’s on to capeair.com and click on
Check out details at capeair.com.
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INDEX
Napi’s...............................................82 Provincetown Tourism Board....89 Rafanelli Events.............................90 The Red Inn.................................82 Schoolhouse Gallery..................89 Snip/Ptown Massage..................85 Truro Vineyards..........................95
EarthView By Jim Wolf, Director of Sustainability
“LESSONS FROM THE GARDEN”
For us, For us, nothing but nothing but green skies. Ladybugs
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What’s that, lessons from the garden? That’s right–the farm to school movement is maturing, and is proving to be a force in bringing educators, parents, and students together for some seriously fun, yet purposeful education. Cape Air was nearby this spring for the birth of the Hyannis West Elementary School Garden. It was a beautiful thing to see right up the street from our headquarters.
green skies. d W ner in
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intosolar energy to power our corporate headquarters, along with Creative partnerships are part of whatOur makeinvestment our approach sustainability unique. We work with airports, communities, other and our employeesin onroofing, a wide range of localand lighting controls, bring us ever closer to efficiencies insulation goals, from Farm to School agriculturenet-zero programs to electricusage. vehicle initiatives. electricity
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Ah yes, summer vacation is over, schools are back in session, and this year many students are attending schoolsCONSERVING where theyREDUCING will be learning from campus gardens. SUSTAINING
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Committed to Sustainability. We support it at work and at home through recycling, waste reduction, sustainable Sure, airlines consume we’re product sourcing, and various green initiatives designed to excitefuel. and But inspire our committed to reducing the burn—both in the skies and on the ground. Combined new technology and flight procedures equally committed employees.
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Sure, airlines consume fuel. But we’re committed to reducing the burn—both in the skies and on the ground. Combined new technology and flight procedures significantly reduce the fuel consumed in our super-efficient fleet of Cessna 402s.
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Our investment in solar energy to power our corporate headquarters, along with other efficiencies in roofing, insulation and lighting controls, bring us ever closer to net-zero electricity usage.
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t’s harvest season in our northern region. Just the time of the year to feed our bodies on the ultimate bounty brought to us by our local farmers. It’s also the time of year–if we are so lucky and industrious—to share and prepare the carefully nurtured results of our own backyard vegetable gardens. If we take a moment to contemplate, we must admit that We have committed ourselves we’ve been learning more and to sustaining this wonderful more these last few years about educational opportunity at what it means, for our minds A fuel-efficient Cessna 402 proclaims our commitment to sustainability. Hyannis West Elementary and our communities, as well as School. May your garden grow, our bodies, when we eat healthy, RENEWING 012 EPA Hyannis 2West!! minimally processed, locally grown food. It seems that once we What’s growing at school in REDUCING A fuel-efficient Cessna 402 proclaims our commitment sustainability. take the concept of a sustainable yourtoneck of the woods? local food supply to heart, the learning possibilities are endless. 12 EPA RENEWING PARTNERING 20 Did I say learning possibilities? l M e ri t A w
significantly reduce the fuel consumed in our super-efficient fleet of Cessna 402s.
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PARTNERING B I R D ’ S E Y E V I E W
We fly to some beautiful places and want to help keep them that way. To “green” our planet and have a good time doing it. That’s our commitment. Creative partnershipsBecause are partweofrecognize what make our approach to sustainability unique. that our own ability to thrive hinges on the health of our natural environment.
We work with airports, communities, and our employees on a wide range of local goals, from Farm to School agriculture programs to electric vehicle initiatives.
We’re investing in tomorrow,
CONSERVING
so that someday our grandchildren will look back and be proud of all we’re doing today.
capeair.com
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