HERE COMES SUMMER
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he blessings of summer are upon us. As you fasten your seatbelt, you are joining millions of Americans taking to the skies to join loved ones and to visit favorite places near and far. Whether traveling on vacation or business, all of us at Cape Air are honored to be a small part of your travel adventure and consider it our privilege to serve some of the most wonderful communities in the world. Vacation is an opportunity to spend time with family and loved ones and is truly the best time of our lives. I have heard many times over the years, “My vacation begins at the Cape Air counter.” I hope that is true of your experience today. During my six years representing Cape Cod and the Islands in the Massachusetts Senate I had the honor of serving as Chair of the Labor and Workforce Development Committee. One of the many lessons I learned in that capacity was how little time we are given to relax, enjoy friends and family, or recover from a medical condition or illness. In fact, what comes as a sobering statistic is the fact that Americans spend more time at work and less time with family than any other industrialized country. Here at Cape Air, we are proud to offer paid time away from work to enable our employees Father and Son—sailing on Cape Cod Bay—Dan and Ted Wolf to spend time with loved ones, to relax or simply take care of each other. We include paid maternity and paternity leave because neither parent should have to choose between a paycheck and spending time with their new family. As with all things, balance is vital, and successfully balancing work with time-off is a win for everyone. It is our hope that we can play a part in connecting both our passengers, and our Cape Air team with important time away from work. As you fly Cape Air this summer we will continue to work hard to ensure your coming and going is as seamless as possible. This starts with one-step booking with our major partners including JetBlue, United and American, and ends with getting you and your loved ones to some of the most beautiful destinations on the planet. My personal rite of the season is underway so please look for me on summer Saturdays as I once again fly the route that started it all for Cape Air—Provincetown to Boston. I look forward to seeing you, and please let me know how we are doing. Wherever the next few months take you, I wish you an enjoyable and healthy summer.
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Cape Air founder & CEO, Dan Wolf Dan.Wolf@capeair.com
*Make our customers happy and have a good time doing it. B I R D’S
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From water to plate—the next time you enjoy a tasty dish of scallops, keep in mind this hard working group of Martha’s Vineyard fishermen. PUBLISHER: Dan Wolf EXECUTIVE EDITOR: Michelle Haynes Michelle.Haynes@capeair.com CONTRIBUTORS: Lisa Ballard, Gayle Fee, Greg Melville COPY EDITOR: Jim Hanson DESIGN & PRODUCTION: Chuck Anzalone graphicsgroup@comcast.net ChuckAnzalone.com
ADVERTISING SALES: Kimberly.Corkran@capeair.com
9 Nantucket
Rosemary Dooley 508.274.6755
31 Martha’s Vineyard
Bobbi Fawcett doitnow141@gmail.com
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Joe.Lachimia@ BirdsEyeViewMagazine.com
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Bird’s Eye View is published by Cape Air, 660 Barnstable Road Hyannis, MA, 02601
81 Maine 105 New Hampshire/ Vermont
© Bird’s Eye View, 2017 Reproduction in whole or in part PHOTO EDITOR: without permission is prohibited. Nancy Woods Advertising rates are available BirdsEyeViewMagazine@gmail.com upon request. 410.829.1101
FINANCIAL WIZARD: Laurie Jacobson For billing inquires: Laurie.Jacobson@capeair.com
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Photo: Elizabeth Cecil
110 Adirondacks, NY 116 Montana
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Cover photo: Alison Shaw Truro’s Head of the Meadow Beach, Cape Cod National Seashore
118 Caribbean 5
Photo: Kim Corkran
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or most of America, summer means vacation and with Cape Air’s flights to some of the most beautiful places in the world the possibilities are endless. Hiking, fishing, surfing, and that great pastime, good old-fashioned lolling—check out our recommendations on where and how to enjoy all of these vacation options. In almost every Cape Air location across the northeast is the opportunity to enjoy some of Broadway’s greatest stars in an intimate setting at half the price. Preview our summer line-up and take special note of the first lady of soul Aretha Franklin appearing at Martha’s Vineyard’s historic Tabernacle. Ann Patchett’s latest tops my favorite read list for 2017. Meet the author at this summer’s book fest in Martha’s Vineyard and please take advantage of neighborhood bookstores found in our Cape Air destinations. In this issue Lisa Ballard takes us to a bookstore treasure in Billings, Montana. Resist the temptation to buy books from a mammoth online book seller and keep local independent bookstores alive and flourishing. Finally, a sweet good-bye to both a personal friend and a long time contributor to the Bird’s Eye View. Provincetown-based scientist Carole Carlson lost her battle with cancer this year just before the yearly migration of her beloved whales. She called them by their first names and was a tireless crusader on their behalf. Our hope is that somewhere, somehow she is continuing to cavort alongside these denizens of the sea that meant so much to her.
Executive Editor, Bird’s Eye View Michelle.Haynes@capeair.com *Make our customers happy and have a good time doing it.
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Michelle getting the lowdown on disc golf, (do not call it Frisbee) at the course in Nantucket which is free and open to everyone.
Dr. Carole Carlson 1947-2017, was an early member of the Center for Coastal Studies and our most cherished colleague. As one of our adjunct scientists, she effectively advocated for responsible whale watching operations and helped shape a special, long term collaboration between the Center and the Dolphin Whale Watching fleet. We remain proud of Carole’s efforts on behalf of whales at the International Whaling Commission and in marine sanctuaries around the world. The scope and range of her contributions to marine mammal conservation may never be matched. —Richard Delaney, President Center for Coastal Studies
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BirdsEyeViewMagazine.com The Bird’s Eye View is a Click Away Photo: Maura Woods
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Bird’s Eye View photo editor Nancy Woods
o more trying to remember, “What was the name of that fun restaurant? How to find that tucked away beach? When is Tea? Why is Warren Beatty speaking in Nantucket?” The award-winning Bird’s Eye View magazine is now online at Birdseyeviewmagazine.com. You are now a click away from the inside scoop on where to stay, eat, play, and shop in some of the world’s most beautiful destinations. For our loyal family of advertisers, potential customers can now click on your ad and in a flick of an eye be transported to your website. Thanks to one and all for your support and special kudos to Bird’s Eye View photo editor Nancy Woods whose tenacity and hard work made Bird’s Eye View online a reality.
WE LOVE OUR PHOTOGRAPHERS!
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eady to click at a moment’s notice—meet our intrepid and always accommodating cast of photographers. Like another famous magazine by that pipe smoking guy in the bathrobe, we never kid ourselves about folks reading the copy; the Bird’s Eye View is always about the images. We thank them for sharing their extraordinary talent with us. Check out their websites, buy their work and if you find yourself in any of their destinations, call upon them for the perfect shot.
Photo: Michael Brisson
Steve Simonsen, Caribbean stevesimonsen.com Photo: Puiming Webster
Elizabeth Cecil, Martha’s Vineyard elizabethcecil.com
Nicole Friedler Brisson Nicole Friedler Photography Martha’s Vineyard nicolefriedler.com
Alison Shaw, Martha’s Vineyard alisonshaw.com
Tim Johnson, Martha’s Vineyard timjohnsonphotos.com
Greg Hinson, Nantucket NantucketStock.com 8
Cary Hazlegrove, Nantucket NantucketStock.com B I R D’S
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Photo: © Cary Hazlegrove/NantucketStock.com
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NANTUCKET’S BEACHES Free and Open...to everyone...
Photo: © Greg Hinson/NantucketStock.com
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Photo: Terry Pommett
By Michelle Haynes
antucket in summer—it’s a total “day at the beach” both figuratively and where it counts— in your wallet. No parking fee or permit needed, ever. “Nantucket’s beaches are some of the best in the world—and every beach on Nantucket is open to anyone! Visitors often comment that they dream of a walk on Nantucket’s beaches all-year round,” says Janet Schulte, executive director of the Nantucket Chamber of Commerce. If you like wave action, head to popular Surfside a few miles from Main Street. For closer to town and more kid-friendly, the aptly named Children’s Beach has a protected swim area, perfect sand for castle building, an affordable café with kid-friendly food, and a playground. “Dog lovers take note,” says the Bird’s Eye View’s Nantucket correspondent Kim Corkran. “What dog doesn’t like a romp on the beach? Nantucket has the perfect beach where dogs are free to do exactly that, Dog Beach (yes, that is the name). The beach is down a little dirt road just past Bartlett Farm. Whatever beach you choose early morning or early evening is truly the best time. A little wine and a little cheese to go with the sunset is a pretty magical time.”
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Photo: © Cary Hazlegrove/NantucketStock.com
NANTUCKET
Oh the things one can create out of sand! See the experts make their magic at the annual Nantucket Sculpture and Sandcastle Day happening on July 22nd at Jetties Beach. Many of the works are designed by the talented artists at the Nantucket Island School of Design & the Arts.
Catch The Wave, Nantucket’s most affordable and convenient way to get around with direct access to the island’s beaches. Fares hover around $1 to $2. Routes and lots more at nrtawave.com. 12
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Yoga by the Sea
Cisco Beach Photo: Robert Sturman Yoga Festival director Joann Burnham flies high above her husband Ted.
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N A N T U C K E T Y O G A F E S T I V A L J U LY 7– 9 Photo courtesy of Down under Yoga
ix years ago Joann Burnham presented Nantucket’s first yoga festival and the response was immediate. Young, old, newbies, and longtime yogis all came together in a festival that is now a summer tradition. “It is my life’s mission,” says Burnham. “I love to see more and more diverse groups of folks practicing yoga. For a long time it was thought you had to be of a certain age and body type but now we are seeing all weights, ages and levels of fitness. People are finding something in the practice that makes them feel better in their own body and that is exciting for me.” Burnham teaches yoga all summer in a studio overlooking Nantucket’s Bartlett Farm. “It is a beautiful location and we offer everything from restorative yoga to aerial and we welcome everyone to come and join us.”
Yoga teacher Natasha Rizopoulos defines flexible.
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Yoga on the Bandstand
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Photo: Ann Murphy
ettina Broer offers yoga classes for all levels Monday thru Thursday on the bandstand overlooking Children’s Beach, minutes from Nantucket’s Main Street. This is Plein Air yoga against the backdrop of boat horns and church bells. Bettina is a soothing and encouraging teacher who also rents yoga mats for those who happen to pass by. If you like your yoga al fresco, this is the one.
Bettina Broer
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SANDTOSEA.COM Available at Beauty and Beyond 8 West Creek Road. Nantucket MA 02554 508.228.6245
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Satsuma-Orange, Seamist, Lavender Pomegranate-Fig • Perfect custom hostess gifts, wedding favors, birthday gifts All foaming hand soaps can be completely customized with any photograph or text. Imagine your beautiful home, Yacht or treasured family photos proudly displayed.
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Photo Courtesy of Shearwater Excursions
A Day in the Life: N A N T U C K E T
Have Net Will Travel—A bachelorette party with Nantucket’s Shearwater Excursions. Photo Courtesy of Captain Tom’s Charters
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Find the fish! Usually a major priority for any fishing trip and the crew with Captain Tom’s Charters, a long time member of the Bird’s Eye View family, has decades of experience when it comes to matching fishermen with fish. From beginners to long time anglers, choose from a variety of charters at capttom.com. B I R D’S E Y E V I E W
NANTUCKET
Photo: Kim Corkran
Nantucket Disc Golf—no tee times, no dress code, dog friendly and open every day and, the best for last, it is free and open to everyone. This is a fun day even if you choose not to throw the disc. (Do not call it a Frisbee.)
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NANTUCKET
Shall We Dance… La La Land in Nantucket
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By Michelle Haynes
in many of us and a group on Nantucket is capturing that ay “Supper Club” to anyone over a certain age feeling with a weekly supper club. “We are offering a return and the words conjure images of Eddy Duchin to an earlier era of relaxed dining and dancing in an elegant at the piano, and elegant ladies in long gloves ball room with a live band,” says Virna Gonzalez, program coordinator for the island’s newest attraction, The Supper Club. dancing cheek to cheek with men in tuxedos to the music of Porter and Gershwin. The phenomenal The setting is the Nantucket Hotel, built in 1891 and now renovated to its former elegance. “The location is perfect,” success and popularity of the award-winning film La La Land kindled a yearning for that time and place says Gonzalez, “and we intend to create an intimate setting with tables circling the dance floor. We offer a three-course dinner and a different band every Thursday thru August 24th. This is a first for Nantucket and we are excited for the chance to offer this unique experience.” Cost is $95 per person. thenantuckethotel.com Photos Courtesy of The Nantucket Hotel
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Wouldn’t It Be Nice
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Photo: Lisa Frey
housands of people gathered across Nantucket’s Jetties Beach swaying to the music of America’s best-loved band, The Beach Boys. It may be five decades after Surfer Girl, but led by the inimitable voice of Mike Love and joined by Bruce Johnston, there is no mistaking the sound many of us grew up with—and what a perfect setting. A benefit for Nantucket Cottage Hospital, the band will join the Boston Pops Esplanade Orchestra in what is now a 21-year tradition. Following the concert, fireworks will illuminate the summer sky. Tickets start at $30 and $10 for kids. It all happens on August 12th, rain or shine, so sturdy waterproof ponchos would be a good idea. Photo: Bill Young Productions
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Mike Love and the Beach Boys—as part of a 1998 legal settlement, 74 year-old Love (yes, 74) is the only original member of the band legally allowed to use the words, “Beach Boys.”
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Nantucket Screenwriters Colony
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Photo: © Greg Hinson/NantucketStock.com
irls, The Affair, Orange is the new Black and House of Cards— all popular award-winning television series with roots that began thirty miles out to sea at the Nantucket Screenwriters Colony. Founded in 2002 by Buzzfeed.com founder John Johnson, emerging writers are invited every fall to Johnson’s property for an all expenses paid, month-long stay. “Our writers always arrive with their own projects and we give them a nurturing environment offering time, space and mentorship,” says Colony spokeswoman Callie Kever. Past and present mentors include the late Mike Nichols, writer Eric Gilliland (Who’s the Boss, The Wonder Years), and Ben Robbins, whose work includes the award-winning Madoff, the acclaimed four hour ABC-TV series starring Richard Dreyfus. “The Colony’s residency program exists to give these emerging writers, who have found their own voice, a place to work and learn alongside established and successful screenwriters,” says Kever. Island visitors also have a chance to mix and mingle with the Hollywood heavyweights at the Colony’s annual summer fundraiser, open to everyone and this year features writer, producer, actor Warren Beatty. “This a relaxed low key affair that we keep small to 140 people so our guests enjoy an intimate setting for dinner, cocktails and Q&A with our special guest,” says Kever. For Warren Beatty fans, the summer soirée happens on July 22nd at 6 pm on the Johnson property at 25 Almanack Pond Road. The cost is $500 per person and includes dinner, dancing and a meet and greet with Warren Beatty.
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Warren Beatty, 1975
Warren, “You’re So Vain,” Beatty
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NANTUCKET HOUSE ANTIQUES AND INTERIOR DESIGN & THE ANTIQUES DEPOT
ANTIQUES • INTERIOR DESIGN • APPRAISALS • RESTORATION Sandi, Tucker & Michelle Holland 508.228.7648
nantuckethouse.com
Jack & Ciara Fritsch 508.228.1287
nantucketantiquesdepot.com
2 SOUTH BEACH STREET, NANTUCKET, MA 02554 SUMMER
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Art in Flight by airbrush artist Jürek.
WHAT ’ S I N A NA M E ?
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antucket—a name that invokes far more than an island vacation. In 1994 when Cape Air acquired the route between Nantucket and Hyannis, Cape Air/Nantucket Airlines was born. “There was never a question about whether or not to keep the name Nantucket Airlines,” says Cape Air founder and CEO Dan Wolf. “The name ‘Nantucket’ invokes a number of singular feelings for both island residents and visitors, and we are proud to be part of that community. We even painted one of our aircraft in celebration of one of Nantucket’s biggest events of the year, the annual Daffodil Festival.”
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lthough the cookie has no real connection to Nantucket, the juice drink was birthed on the island by locals Tom and Tom who went on to fame and fortune before selling the company to a larger conglomerate.
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antucket emerged as a summer family retreat in the 1950 film, Cheaper by the Dozen. The celebrated story about the Gilbreth family also led to a few books by one of the dozen children who went on to operate a Nantucket inn.
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Photo: Terry Pommett
Saying “I do” in a particular shade of red, Bird’s Eye View fave Nobby Clothes Shop devotes a section of the store to Breton Red, the color most closely identified with Nantucket.
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NANTUCKET
Photo: Jon Aron
Photo: © Vibeke Svenningsen
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he first line of Leslie Linsley’s new book, Salvage Style says it all, “All my life I have been attracted to junk.” But, what she manages to create from that junk is an inspiration for those of us who hate to pay retail. “I have lived on Nantucket for years,” says Linsley. “Life was simpler then and we all furnished our homes from, the ‘Take It or Leave It’ shack at the dump or from yard sales. I have laid walks with all of the bricks taken from the dump. Old things from the past should be revered and not thrown away.” Salvage Style author Leslie Linsley
Salvage Style is a virtual “how to” when it comes to ferreting out second-hand stuff and turning it into treasures for your home. “Interesting uses for cast-off lumber and industrial stools to give new life to your kitchen give your rooms character and it does not take long to tune into what is out there and find ways to use it.” If you are wondering what happens if you buy too much junk stay tuned for Linsley’s next book, The Diary of a Reluctant Declutterer (not kidding). Buy this book for a collector, do-it-yourselfer, or lover of vintage. They will love it! Photo: © Jean Allsopp
A pine hutch can stand in for traditional cabinets while the skirted panels are made from an old linen tablecloth.
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A DAY I N T H E L I F E :
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Photo: Nicole Friedler Photography
rom the mystical red clay of the Aquinnah Cliffs to the Oak Bluffs’ gingerbread cottages and the tucked away beauty of neighboring Chappaquiddick, Martha’s Vineyard has boasting rights to some of the most varied geography in all of New England. The white stately captains’ houses in Edgartown and farms like Chilmark’s Beetlebung and the Island Alpaca Farm, are all worth a visit. For a range of accommodations check out the Martha’s Vineyard Chamber of Commerce at mvy.com or better yet, call on any one of our Bird’s Eye View family members. Click on their ad at birdseyemagazine.com and you are there. Photo: Tim Johnson
Rides, horse pulling and old-fashioned fair delectables like fried dough happen at the 156th Martha’s Vineyard Livestock Show and Fair August 17-20 on the fairgrounds in West Tisbury. SUMMER
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Photo courtesy of The Trustees of Reservations
A Day in the Life:
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Chappaquiddick’s Mytoi Garden Photo: Tim Johnson
Minutes from Edgartown by way of a vintage ferry for cars, bikes and people is a world away with the formal name of Chappaquiddick but better known as “Chappy” by everyone else. Miles of gorgeous beaches and hiking trails, an infamous bridge with a checkered past, and a Japanese tea garden all make for a singular Vineyard escape. 32
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uild your dream home with spectacular sunsets and enjoy the active Menemsha Harbor Waterway Views! See the conceptual home drawing along with a full code analysis by a licensed architect to confirm the ability to build a 3,750 sq, ft home, with views from 1st & 2nd floors, 4 bedrooms, garage and space for inground pool. Septic plan has been approved, and water well installed. Included—Deeded Rights to access private, sandy beach on the pond front to kayak and store small boats. No development mystery, it is ready to go!
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M VY BROKER HOMES – INVESTMENT – LAND
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Water View 4 Acre Parcel Overlooking Menemsha Pond
A Day in the Life:
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Photo: Peter Simon
lthough the proper name is the Martha’s Vineyard Camp Meeting Association, visitors know this national landmark as the “gingerbread cottages.” Located steps away from the bustle of Oak Bluffs and with religious roots dating back to the early 1800s, the community is home to generations of summer visitors and is well worth a walk around. The high point of the season is the century-old tradition, Grand Illumination Night when the cottages outdo each other in colorful lanterns all lit at the same time. This year’s event which also includes a band concert and a community sing-a-long happens on August 16th.
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Photo: Mike Maitland
For over a century the historic Tabernacle has been the center for cultural, religious and social events and is the largest covered outdoor performance space on the island.
Oak Bluffs’ historic Tabernacle. SUMMER
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he centerpiece of the gingerbread cottages, the campground’s historic Tabernacle, is a perfect setting for a concert, and they have a doozy of a superstar headlining with the first ever island appearance of the first lady of soul Aretha Franklin. Presented by the Martha’s Vineyard Concert Series, the one night only show happens on August 19th.
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Chilmark’s Most Amazing Setting
High on a hill overlooking all of Menemsha Pond, Vineyard Sound and the Elizabeth Islands beyond is this wonderful, airy 3 bedroom Chilmark home. Designed to take full advantage of the fantastic views, the house has ample decks and all of the living spaces enjoy the commanding vistas out over the water. Truly one of the finest sites you will ever find. Call to inquire.
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A Day in the Life: M A R T H A ’ S V I N E Y A R D
Live music happens weekly at Edgartown’s Eisenhauer Gallery.
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Photos: Nicole Friedler Photography
he far-from-stuffy Eisenhauer Gallery, a longtime member of the Bird’s Eye View family, is in Edgartown. You can’t miss the front door: just head for the sculpture in the middle of town where folks are actually encouraged to touch, climb, pose, or what have you. The gallery features weekly summer concerts with wine and nibbles and the art is eclectic, fun, intriguing, and yes, affordable.
Elizabeth Eisenhauer, (lower right) and her team at her gallery. Photo: Nicole Friedler Photography
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A Day in the Life: M A R T H A ’ S V I N E Y A R D Photos: Tim Johnson
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he most photographed place on Martha’s Vineyard, the Aquinnah Cliffs, is the ancestral home of the island’s first residents, the Wampanoag Indians (People of the First Light), and although the beach is spectacular and well worth a visit, do not pass up the chance to indulge your shopping gene at the tribal-run shops and restaurants.
Buy Local—Berta Welch is one of many Aquinnah vendors selling locally made gifts. Photo courtesy of Island Spirit Kayak
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BPhoto: I R ©DGreg ’ S Hinson/NantucketStock. EYE VIEW
A Day in the Life: M A R T H A ’ S V I N E Y A R D Photos courtesy of Island Alpaca
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meet and greet with the doe-eyed alpacas in Vineyard Haven where you will find over 50 colorful Huacaya alpaca enjoying the good life at Barbara Ronchetti’s Island Alpaca Company. If you time it right you may even meet the latest cria, the name given to a baby alpaca. Don’t pass up the gift shop for some great buys on everything from socks to shawls to baby gifts made from alpaca fleece, soft as cashmere and warmer than wool.
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Photo: Elizabeth Cecil
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opular nonfiction, and this year’s crown jewels of fiction, Ann Patchett’s Commonwealth and Richard Russo’s Trajectory, are just a couple of the literary superstars at Martha’s Vineyard Book Festival happening August 5th and 6th. This bibliophile’s nirvana features individual Q&A with the authors, along with book signings, and panel discussions. Cape Air, a number of other island businesses, is proud to sponsor this grand event.
DETAILS:
Date: Saturday, August 5, 2017 Time: 9:00 am– 4:00 pm Location: Harbor View Hotel, Edgartown Date: Sunday, August 6, 2017 Time: 9:00 am–4:00 pm Location: Chilmark Community Center Jenny Allen–Would Everybody Please Stop Carol Anderson–White Rage Madeleine Blais–To the New Owners Sidney Blumenthal–Wrestling with His Angel Peter Brannen–The Ends of the World Julie Buntin–Marlena Erica Armstrong Dunbar–Never Caught David R. Foster–A Meeting of Land and Sea Jessica Harris–My Soul Looks Back Michael Holley–Belichick and Brady Ann Hood–Morningstar Min Jin Lee–Pachinko Beth Macy–Truevine Alyssa Mastromonaco–Who Thought This Was a Good Idea? Susie Middleton–Simple Green Suppers Joan Nathan–King Solomon’s Table Dr. Willie Parker–Life’s Work Ann Patchett–Commonwealth Richard North Patterson–Fever Swamp Michael Ruhlman–Grocery Richard Russo–Trajectory Danzy Senna–New People Gillian Thomas–Because of Sex Amor Towles–A Gentleman of Moscow Sarah Waldman–Feeding a Family Sharon Weinberger–The Imagineers of War
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APPEARING AT THE MARTHA’S VINEYARD BOOK FESTIVAL
M ARTHA’ S VI N E YARD Photos: Elizabeth Cecil
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M ARTHA’ S VI N E YARD “At sea, a black master could slap or flog a white sailor. On land, he couldn’t look a white man in the eye.”—Author Skip Finley
“In the 1800s whaling was one of the largest industries in the country, offering opportunities to all men, regardless of skin color. Thirty to forty percent of everyone who ever went whaling were black.” —Author Skip Finley Photo courtesy of the New Bedford Whaling Museum
I Captain William Martin’s ship the Eunice H. Adams wharfside in New Bedford, Massachusetts.
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By Michelle Haynes n the 1800s, African-Americans could not own a house or property of any kind yet as whaling captains they could command salaries that in today’s dollars would be in the millions. “Second to mining, whaling was one of the most dangerous occupations in the world,” says Martha’s Vineyard author Skip Finley. “Many African-Americans joined a whaling ship to avoid being enslaved and their skill and seamanship brought these men to the top of their profession. Twenty-seven of them were made captain while at sea.” While researching Not Your Average Ahab, his article about African-American Vineyarder Captain William Martin, Finley discovered that out of 2,500 whaling captains, at least 63 were men of color. “I have been Black all of my life,” says Finley, “and frankly I am sick and tired of hearing about slavery all the time and want to know more inspirational stories of folks who broke through. Until the movie, Hidden Figures I never knew there were Black women so important to the space program. We need to get stories like these out there.” Which is exactly what Finley is hoping to do with a book devoted to the subject. B I R D’S E Y E V I E W
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Author Skip Finley
“Whaling was the first American industry to exhibit any diversity, and a man got to be captain not because he was white or well-connected, but because he knew how to find and kill a whale. Along the way he could learn navigation and how to read and write.” Finley’s book, now in progress, takes what he calls the best stories of these captains of color, both at sea and at home. “Readers will meet an improbable, diverse, and engaging cast of characters including slaves and slavers, abolitionists, Quakers, pirates, British, killers and deserters and gamblers, inventors and investors, cooks and crooks, and of course the whales, the latter of whom seemingly had personalities of their own.”
Good luck coins left on the Captain’s grave in Chappaquiddick.
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PROVINCETOWN
The Inn at Cook Street A Greek Revival Inn located in America’s oldest continuous art colony
7 Cook Street Provincetown, MA 02657 www.innatcookstreet.com (888) COOK-655
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(508) 487-3894
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Photo courtesy of the Provincetown Center for Coastal Studies
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collects scientific data on these magnificent mammals. Since 1975 the team has identified around 1,300 whales which is why on any given trip the whales on view, known by their first names, are apt to be old friends of the Dolphin Fleet crew. Trips average $47 for adults and $31 for children 5 to 12 years old. Photo courtesy of the Dolphin Fleet, Provincetown
ome meet Arroyo, Lavalier, and Glo-Stick— a few of the thousand-plus humpback whales found in the waters off Cape Cod. They are back and in record numbers. The rich feeding grounds off the coast have long attracted scores of mighty humpbacks and joining the pack this season are record numbers of rare right whales. According to Provincetown’s Center for Coastal Studies, almost one-third of the entire global population of right whales enjoyed a spring fling in Cape Cod Bay. The Center’s president Richard Delaney says “The majestic whales fascinate and get most everyone’s attention. We use that moment to help people better understand the rest of the ocean ecosystem that is so vital to the whales’ survival. We hope that as people develop a deeper understanding of the incredible value and benefits that healthy oceans provide for whales and people, they will become better stewards of the global oceans.” Breaching, feeding, diving—the whales put on quite a show and one of the best ways to take in the fun is on board the Dolphin Fleet. You have a number of departures to choose from with trips departing from Provincetown’s MacMillan Pier. The three-plus hour whale adventure also features an on-board whale expert, who, in addition to sharing whale facts with passengers,
Photo: Jesse Mechling, Center for Coastal Studies
Richard Delaney, President of Provincetown’s Center for Coastal Studies.
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Photos: Chuck Anzalone
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Illustration by Brendan M. Lahey
he paved biking trails in Provincetown’s Cape Cod National Seashore take you in and around some pretty spectacular scenery and, if you pay attention, no shortage of wild life. Dunes, ocean, forest land and do not miss the magical Beech Forest located about a stone’s throw from your arrival at the Provincetown Airport. A good bike path map is essential so make your first stop Bird’s Eye View family member, Arnold’s Bike Shop located in the center of town and offering excellent service and a wide selection of bike rentals. As for trying to ride down Commercial Street during July and August, well, the picture tells the story. Walking heedlessly down the middle of the street is a P’town tradition with no rhyme or reason to it. Folks just meander in the street making it challenging for bike riding. Good rule—before 7 am you are fine, after that, walk the bike or take nearby Bradford Street to get where you need to go.
A Summer day on Provincetown’s Commercial Street.
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There’s Nothing Like a Ptown Summer!
Contact Steve Miller For All Your Provincetown and Outer Cape Real Estate Needs.
Steve Miller, Realtor ®
M: 774-487-6635 O: 508-487-9550 SteveMiller@PatShultz.com
See you Summer 2017!
406 Commercial Street Provincetown, MA 02657 www.patshultz.com MA License #9554515
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So, let me entertain you... and we’ll have a real good time, yes, sir!
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By Michelle Haynes
he tip of Cape Cod continues its long-time tradition this summer as a major entertainment hub. Some of the biggest stars of Broadway and film are appearing this season. Highlights include: The award-winning Billy Porter who was the nightly show stopper as the high-kicking Lola in the Broadway smash Kinky Boots. This singer-dancer-writer brings his considerable talent to the Crown & Anchor on August 19th & 20th and he is sure to feature songs from his new album Billy Porter Presents: The Soul of Richard Rogers. A Crown & Anchor attraction making his Provincetown debut, and another shining light of Broadway, is Brian Stokes Mitchell. A Tony winner for the Broadway revival of Kiss Me Kate, Mitchell’s rich creamy baritone will send proverbial shivers your way and once again remind you there is nothing like live entertainment. How blessed are we on Cape Cod to have this extraordinary talent on our doorstep? The highly opinionated comic Margaret Cho, along with satirist Kate Clinton and the star of the street Miss Richfield are just a few of the other acts on the Crown & Anchor’s entertainment roster this season. Billy Porter
Margaret Cho
Brian Stokes Mitchell
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ark Cortale is back this summer with Seth Rudetsky, host of Seth’s Big Fat Broadway on Sirius/XM Satellite Radio’s On Broadway. Joining the lineup and performing at the historic Town Hall on August 13th is Sutton Foster, who garnered a Tony award for her role in the Broadway hit, Anything Goes and is currently starring in the TV series Younger. Cortale’s other entertainment venue, the Art House is presenting a show schedule, with something for everyone, including the singular and always hilarious Ryan Landry appearing with the luscious Varla Jean in the summer long production of 5 to 9. Appearing on September 9th is Saturday Night Live favorite Ana Gasteyer.
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TRADITIONAL TOURS
Daily Tour (1 hr) Spectacular Sunset Tour (2 hr) Race Point Lighthouse Tour (1.5 hr)
NEW ADVENTURE EXCURSIONS LAND ‘N LAKE (Includes Lunch~ 3.5-4 hr) LAND ‘N SEA (Includes Dinner) LAND ‘N SAIL (4.5 hr)
ART W/ART’S (6 hr) SUNRISE AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHY TOUR (3 hr)
CELEBRATING OVER 70 YEARS! Family-Owned & Operated Since 1946
508.487.1950 • 1.800.894.1951
VISIT OUR SITE FOR MORE INFORMATION
www.artsdunetours.com Tours based on 4 person minimum/weather permitting
Photo: Lisa Reilly
“I remember him.”
Say the name Jimmy James to long-time Provincetown folks and the picture he invokes comes into view—Marilyn. What was described in the 1980s as an “unbelievably uncanny live visual and vocal impersonation of Marilyn Monroe,” attracted SRO crowds to his appearances at Provincetown’s legendary Pilgrim House. Jimmy is back this summer with his latest creation Fashionista which earned over 20 million views on You Tube. This summer’s show features song impressions for millennials including Lana del Rey and Adele, along with perennial faves Stevie Nicks, Cher, Elvis, Liza Minnelli and Billie Holiday. “When the material speaks to me and the audience, then I’m able to deliver it with conviction and joy,” says James, appearing Thursday through Sunday at the Pilgrim House showroom at Sage at 336 Commercial Street. “It takes time to learn new voices and new songs and make it all look effortless. I carefully vet the material before it ever goes into the show. I never want my show to be a hodge-podge. When the material speaks to me and the audience, then I’m able to deliver it with conviction and joy.”
Jimmy James back in Provincetown
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PROVINCETOWN
LIKE NOWHERE ELSE
Photos: Chuck Anzalone
By Michelle Haynes
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ods and Goddesses rule the day on Thursday, August 17 for the largest outdoor celebration on Cape Cod, the 39th annual Provincetown Carnival Parade. With this year’s theme expect to see no shortage of Zeus and Aphrodite wannabes, along with what is sure to be one epically massive toga party. In spite of a somewhat racy reputation, the parade is truly, out-of-the-box fun for everyone—unless you are crowd-phobic. Literally thousands of people line the mile-long parade route. If you do not arrive in the cape tip town before noon on parade day you may be out of luck so get there early for a raucous and audacious experience.
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Provincetown favorites Margaret Cho and Bruce Vilanch take center stage at the annual Carnival parade.
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Serving food 11 am - 11 pm 186 Commercial Street, Provincetown 508 487 7555 www.local186.com mc/visa, amex & cash Reservations for parties 06 or more
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CAPE COD
To Bee Or Not To Bee
OR HOW I BECAME A CAPE COD BEEKEEPER By Gayle Fee
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ape Cod is buzzing—with beekeepers! Honey-lovers from Falmouth to Provincetown are raising bees on the Cape and enjoying the sweet rewards that come when they harvest that liquid gold. “I think the Cape has the perfect population for beekeeping,” said 76-year-old beekeeper Mark Simonitsch, who has been tending hives with beekeeping partner Stephen Daniel in Chatham and Harwich for 10 years. “People choose to live on Cape Cod because they want to be close to nature. And we have another perfect ingredient—a retired community with disposable income and time on their hands.” The Barnstable County Beekeepers boasts 407 members and president Mike Smith said it has been drawing close to 100 new members a year recently. All of which means there is probably one beekeeper for every 500 year-round residents on the Cape, more than five times the national average. “It’s funny. I think a lot of people are beekeepers and we just don’t know about it,” said former Cape State Senator Dan Wolf, the CEO of Cape Air, who has been keeping bees for about five years at his Harwich home. Wolf said that he and former Gov. Deval Patrick, who has an apiary on his western Massachusetts farm, often talked about their shared passion when both were at the State House.
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Used as a food source for centuries, pure honey not only tastes good, but is also a healthy choice for folks wanting to indulge their sweet tooth.
“It’s one of his great loves,” Wolf said. “And of course, nothing tastes better than honey from your own hive.” Cape honey has more flavors than Baskin-Robbins, because the landscape, and hence the pollen the bees feed on, is so diverse here. It even changes with the seasons. “Spring honey is lighter and sweeter because the bees are feeding on more flowers,” Smith said. “In the fall, if the weather is nice, we get a darker, heavier honey from golden rod and aster.” Wolf said his honey has traces of lavender from a nearby lavender farm and Simonitsch, who harvests about 300 pounds of honey every fall, has flavors of apple and peach in his, courtesy of the orchards where his nine hives sit. I recently joined the ranks of Cape beekeepers, setting up my first backyard hive in Eastham, and already I’m hooked. B I R D’S
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Wednesday Evenings from 5 to 7 pm are FREE all summer long! July 4: Monumental Fourth of July Picnic* July 12: Monumental Summer Picnic* July 19: Tennessee Williams Festival Preview July 26: Theatre Readings August 2: Monumental Summer Picnic* August 9: Tennessee Williams Festival Preview
PROVINCETOWN
JOIN US FOR Monumental Events
August 13: Carnival Grand Opening August 16: Monumental Summer Picnic*
*Reservations/Tickets on sale @ www.pilgrim-monument.org
Cape Air founder, CEO, and beekeeper, Captain Dan Wolf High Pole Hill, Provincetown | 508-487-1310
www.pilgrim-monument.org
Photo: Alan Peterson
I became interested in beekeeping after learning about the complex social system of these remarkable little creatures. Then there were the rewards promised in beekeeping literature: bigger, better flowers and vegetables in my garden, and, of course, honey and all the accompanying health benefits. But what finally got me online ordering hives, smokers, veils, and finally bees, was the desire to help save the species. The first stop on my journey was reading up: Beekeeping For Dummies is a great place to start. I took a one-day course at a local extension program and watched videos online. I won’t lie: handling the bees for the first time was terrifying. But just as I had heard, honey bees are pretty gentle early in the season, and with just a few puffs from my smoker, they let me move them from the box they arrived in to their new home with very little complaint. I didn’t even wear gloves. I let the crew acclimate for a week, and on my next visit to check their progress, I was excited to spot her majesty the queen! “Watching the whole colony of bees is so fascinating,” Wolf said. “It’s like watching a fire in the winter. Seeing the bees come and go, communicating with each other and knowing what they are doing in the hive really puts you in touch with nature in a very special way. It’s one of the absolute magical mysteries of nature.” Mark Simonitsch and Stephen Daniel’s wildflower honey is sold under the label Weatherwatch Apiary at Chatham Bars Inn and Gustare Oils & Vinegars on Main Street, Chatham. SUMMER 2017
“I won’t lie, handling the bees for the first time was terrifying.” — View writer and novice beekeeper Gayle Fee 65
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CHICAGO
HE HAD IT COMING!
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o excuse to miss award-winning Chicago this summer. Provincetown’s Peregrine Theatre is presenting a season-long production of the Bob Fosse classic of murder, corruption and treachery in 1920s Chicago. See Roxie, Vilma and the rest of the cell block gang July 6th thru September 2nd at the renovated state-of the-art Fishermen Hall on 12 Winslow Street.
Tea at Provincetown’s famed Boatslip Resort where you can dance as if no one is watching. Tea, for those who may not know, is all about dancing and nada to do with tea, the beverage. 66
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12:05 at Provincetown’s Henry & Company
fter Javier Echenique’s first vacation in Provincetown in 2015, his life literally changed. When he came back to his house in South Florida he began opening closets and painting by hand clothes that he deemed uninspired. His shorts, T-shirts, and polos became his next canvas complete with his trademark, a recurring fish-eye Javier Echenique design, very Mediterranean. Born in Madrid to a renowned family of artists, Javier’s career mainly consisted of interior design and art exhibitions, but then friends and acquaintances became interested in his clothing designs. For Javier, cities represent vital cycles along his journey. First came Madrid, then Lisbon, Buenos Aires and then New York. After completing a unique and immemorial cycle in each, he went on to South Florida, an essential stop for any creator/artist from the Mediterranean. And now, once again, a new creative adventure called and Javier decided to live out this new and particular part of his odyssey on Cape Cod. On Cape Cod and in Provincetown, Javier found his place. And that home inspired him to create his menswear clothing line called 12:05. This was the exact time Javier was born on the fourth of July and the exact time of when an unforgettable connection was forged. As he traveled throughout several different cities, people became more and more interested in his hand-painted clothes until there was so much interest that he decided to create a product line. Echenique completely gave himself over to the process of choosing fabrics, designing every detail until he achieved its objective, and manufacturing the necessary quality in a European cut while making the garments soft and unique. The collection is an undeniable tribute to Cape Cod as each garment name implies; The Nantucket Shorts, the Truro T, the MV Tank, the Chatham Polo or the PTown Hoodie. And at the beginning of 2017 this dream came true with the 12:05 launch in Manhattan. His clothing can be purchased in select stores and online at www.1205.life. In Provincetown, the exclusive distributor is Henry & Company. 12:05 is also one of the sponsor/supporters of the Provincetown International Film Festival. Recently 12:05 has been selected to participate in Capsule NY, one of the most important international menswear events that takes place at the Javits Center in July. Presently engrossed in his next collection of clothes, new architecture and exhibition projects, Javier continues to surprise us with his creations and designs. ADVERTISEMENT SUMMER
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Born on the Fourth of July
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C APE COD, M A SSACHUSE T T S You’ll love a relaxing sailboat ride through Scenic Hyannis Harbor and Lewis Bay to Hyannis Port and Nantucket Sound. • Enjoy a fun ride, cool drinks and good food. • Pleasant onboard ambiance is friendly, informal and serene. • No canned travelogue or loudspeakers
Departures at 12:15, 2:15, 4:00 & 6:00 pm MAY-OCTOBER: 1 1/2 hour excursion: Adults $35, Kids $10
www.catboat.com 508-775-0222
Details: Reservations: SUMMER
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H YA N N I S , M A S S AC H U S E T T S
JFKat 100: Life & Legacy By Michelle Haynes
If we cannot now end our differences, at least we can help make the world safe for diversity. — John F. Kennedy Photos: John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum, Boston
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ohnny, We Hardly Knew Ye—written in 1972 by two of JFK’s closest friends, the title belies the countless list of books, movies and TV series written about the most famous First Family to ever occupy the White House. The world’s fascination with the Kennedy family continues today with a number of events commemorating what would have been JFK’s 100th birthday. Visitors to Hyannis, in the center of Cape Cod, are literally in the backyard of what was once the Summer White House. The John F. Kennedy Hyannis Museum in the heart of Main Street is honoring the occasion with a special exhibit focusing on the Cape Cod connection to the President. “Education is a large part of our mission here at the Museum,” says director John Allen. “During his tenure in office JFK was willing to take a stand and to bring parties together to try and find common ground. The Cold War, Bay of Pigs and Civil Rights were huge issues calling for leadership and clarity and Kennedy knew he had to bring people together and resolve the differences. We are continuing his legacy here at the Museum with a number of educational programs aimed at young people. We hope we are inspiring them to be more curious and engaged and to find their own voices.” B I R D’S
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Photo: Cecil Stoughton/ John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum, Boston
As we mark the centennial of his birth, we hope that the stamp will be an enduring symbol of President Kennedy’s call for service, innovation, and inclusion, and his belief that we each have the power to make this world a better place.” —JFK’s grandson Jack Schlossberg (Caroline’s son)
The exhibit includes a number of candid shots of the Kennedy family along with highlights of his days in office including the Space Race, the Peace Corps, and the establishment of one of the nation’s greatest treasures, the Cape Cod National Seashore. SUMMER
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President John F. Kennedy on board the Honey Fitz.
The Kennedy years put Hyannis and nearby Hyannisport on the world stage and you can enjoy a first-hand experience of many of the locations with the Kennedy Legacy Trail, a self-guided walking tour of sites significant to any Kennedyphile. Bring your devices with you on the walk for at each of the ten stops is an informational sign and links to video and audio stories and history about the Kennedys on Cape Cod. The entire walking trail is 1.6 miles long and may be visited in any order. Brochures with a map of the sites can be easily downloaded at kennedylegacytrail.com. 71
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Photo: Robert Knudsen, White House/ John Fitzgerald Kennedy Library, Boston
Catch A Wave With The Cape Cod Oldtimers
Photo: Justin Bourassa
Hitting the surf at the Cape Cod Oldtimers surfing contest.
By Gayle Fee
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n 1963 The Beach Boys proclaimed: “Catch a wave and you’re sitting on top of the world.” And while Wellfleet’s not Waimea, the Cape Cod Oldtimers will make the most of the local breaks at their annual surf contest/end-of-the-summer beach party in August. “It’s a great way to get everyone together, have some fun, promote the love of long-boarding, and raise some money for a good cause” said Alan Peterson, who with the rest of the crew from the late, lamented Jasper’s Surf Shop in Eastham, launched the annual event 42 years ago, when it was part of an annual surf-contest circuit that went up and down the East Coast. But after a few years, the local surfers decided to do a Cape-only meet. “We came up with our own rules,” said former Jasper’s owner Mike Houghton. “No wetsuits, no leashes and no boards shorter than nine feet.” In other words, old-time surfing. Every year nearly 100 surfers and Kelly Slater-wannabes hit the waves while hundreds of spectators crowd the beach. Stunts like headstands, surfing with a partner or pet, hanging five, and “walking the nose” will grab extra points. Trophies are awarded at the end of the afternoon.“You see a lot of families and some who have been doing it for so long their kids, and even grandkids, are starting to surf,” said Peterson. The atmosphere is festive. Burgers are cooking on grills, the Jasper’s crew is selling special edition t-shirts from the back of a truck, and those in the know will find Willie for a sip of his infamous “Wipeout” drink. 72
Gidget and Moondoggie, Annette and Frankie and that California band that took us on an endless surfin’ safari—we all became part of the surf set, if only in our minds.
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Photo courtesy the Cape Cod Oldtimers The Cape Cod Oldtimers circa 1974. Photo: Justin Bourassa
A wipeout at Cape Cod’s White Crest Beach.
This year’s Oldtimer’s contest is set for 5 pm, Sunday, Aug. 20. Anyone who wants to surf—and beginners are encouraged—can sign up at the Pump House Surf Shop on Route 6A, about a half-hour drive from your Cape Air arrival in Provincetown. You don’t need a surfboard to compete—there will be plenty on the beach— and anyone can come and watch. Proceeds from the contest go to Big Brothers/Big Sisters and fund an annual scholarship at the local high school. Lots more at capecodoldtimers.com. SPRING
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Photo: David M.Earnisse Photography
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obert Lamm and James Pankow—you may not recognize the names of these two recent inductees to the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame, but any rocker can belt out the words to Does Anybody Really Know What Time It Is? And who has not wailed along with 25 Or 6 To 4? Singers, songwriters and instrumentalists Lamm and Pankow, known to the world as Chicago return to the Cape Cod Melody Tent in Hyannis on August 2nd.
This is always a sell out, so buy your tickets this very minute, and I defy you to try and stay in your seat. Located in Hyannis in the heart of Cape Cod, other originals at the Tent this summer include The Average White Band and Tower of Power appearing together on August 6th. The Tent’s revolving center stage and outstanding sound system make for the perfect venue to enjoy these musical icons.
Photo: Laura Marie Duncan
APPEARING AT COTUIT CENTER FOR THE ARTS, IN THE HEART OF CAPE COD ON JULY 17th
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ulti-award winning singer, actress and dancer, Chita Rivera made Broadway history in 1957 as the sexy Anita in the epic Broadway sensation West Side Story. From Bob Fosse’s muse in Chicago to her own one woman show, Rivera is a tour-deforce and living proof that age truly is a state of mind.
West Side Story’s original “Anita,” Chita Rivera, 1957
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Chita Rivera, 2017
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C HATHA M , C APE CO D MASSACHUSETTS DUXBURY, MA. $1,595,000 • Village 4BR/3+Bath builders home, 3+acres, 1st floor master • Au-pair potential, modern kitchen, 6 burn Viking, 5BR septic
DUXBURY, MA. $1,495,000 • 2015 renovated 4BR/3+Bath, water view, 1.4 acre, near beach • Dream kitchen/2 islands, large master, heated garage, porch _______________ LIZ BONE _______________ 459 Washington Street I 781.325.8079 I Duxbury, MA 02332 Each Office Is Independently Owned and Operated
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Wanted: Image Make-Over for the Great White Shark
Photos: © Brian Skerry
Dr. Greg Skomal researching Great White Sharks off the coast of Chatham, Massachusetts, a hub of shark activity due to the growing population of their food source, grey seals.
For his new book Shark, author Brian Skerry spent two years studying and photographing sharks who have taken up residence off the coast of Chatham on Cape Cod.
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Author/photographer Brian Skerry
aws sent everyone scurrying out of the water—everyone, that is, except for National Geographic photographer Brian Skerry, who had the opposite reaction. “I was always fascinated by Jacques Cousteau but Jaws really changed my life. I wanted to be Matt Hooper and that was the reason I went for my scuba license. When I saw my first Blue shark I was hooked.” Decades later Skerry is a passionate advocate for the protection of sharks, and played a major role in the New England Aquarium’s current “Science of 76
Sharks” exhibit in Boston. He is also on the board of directors for the Atlantic White Shark Conservancy. “Sharks are beautiful, elegant creatures blending grace and power with fragility and vulnerability,” says Skerry. Say what? Vulnerable and fragile to describe a shark? Skerry says sharks have been given a bad rap when they are in fact an important and vital part of the ocean ecology and in need of our protection. “One hundred million sharks are slaughtered every year,” says Skerry. “This is happening in all parts of the ocean where they are being killed for the fins and the Asian delicacy, Shark Fin soup. Because sharks are seen as monsters and villains, there is no public outcry, and that is what we are working so hard to change. With wisdom and education we can co-exist with sharks.” B I R D’S
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A diver interacts with a Tiger shark at Tiger Beach in the Bahamas.
Oceanic Whitetip shark swims past biologist Wes Pratt inside the shark cage. Bahamas.
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C HATHA M , M A S SAC H U S E T T S Photos: Janice Rogers /The Chatham Merchants Association
If You Can’t Beat ‘em, Join ‘em…
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n the classic film Jaws the mayor and tourism leaders were determined to keep the shark a secret. In the seaside town of Chatham, Massachusetts, where there is now an influx of sharks, the town is sponsoring a popular Sharks in the Park art exhibit representing dozens of local businesses. The exhibit moves to the town library and is on display for one and all until August 18th. If you would like to own one of these colorful art works, you can bid at sharksinthepark.net.
Where are the Whales?
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harks are not the only sea-loving creatures honored in Chatham. The Whale Sighting Scavenger Hunt is on from now until Labor Day. This summer’s hunt sponsored by the Chatham Merchants Association, features 39 three-foot painted and decorated whales scattered in shops and businesses all around town. The challenge is to find all of the whales, correctly identify which business or shop they are in, and hand in your completed scavenger hunt booklet for a chance to win one of five grand prizes. Log books can be found at the Chatham Chamber of Commerce.
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VERMONT
Rutland Southern Vermont Regional Airport, Rutland,Vermont
Join us for one of the most popular issues of the year during one of Mother Nature’s finest hours – Fall in New England The deadline for your ad copy is August 1st (or so). Questions–reach out to Kim Corkran at Kimberly.corkran@capeair.com Need an ad created–reach out to Chuck at graphicsgroup@comcast.net Check us out at birdseyeviewmagazine.com. SUMMER
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Photos: Joan Marcus
efore Judy’s indelible and enduring Dorothy, the land of Oz was quite a different kettle of munchkins— at least according to novelist Gregory Maguire, whose best-selling book took us back to pre-Tin, Straw and scaredy-cat Lion days, and introduced us to a green-faced little girl. Wicked went on to become a Broadway phenomenon and continues to defy gravity in theaters around the globe. Elphaba, Glinda and the gang return to Boston’s Opera House this summer making for a perfect getaway to Cape Air’s hub city.
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MAINE
One of the festival’s most popular events— The Great International Lobster Crate Race. The record is a race across 1,500 crates.
Photo: Kate Sfeir
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PE NOBSCOT, M AI N E Photos courtesy of The Maine Lobster Festival
A SEVENTY YEAR HOMAGE TO MAINE LOBSTER AUGUST 2-6, 2017
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By Michelle Haynes
he year is 1947 and the post-war boom is on. A group of forward-looking visionaries in the Camden/Rockland Maine area are working on an action plan aimed at getting folks back into a vacation mode by luring them to Maine by way of the state’s most popular export, that tasty crustacean, the Maine lobster. This summer marks the 70th anniversary of the wildly popular Maine Lobster Festival, expected to once again serve up an estimated 25,000 pounds of 82
Lobster Festival circa 1950
lobster to over 10,000 visitors. The butter dripping delicacy is only one part of the five-day lobster lollapalooza. Other events include the lobster crate race, live music, a gigantic parade showcasing imaginative ways to showcase lobster floats, and a pretty competitive cooking contest, to name only a handful of non-eating ways to celebrate lobster while enjoying the beauty of coastal Maine. A schedule is a must. mainelobsterfestival.com B I R D’S
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PE NOBSCOT, M AI N E Photo: Jeff Scher Photo: Tyler Fields
Calling All Boats–Even the Tiny Ones
It’s a Boat! It’s a Bed! Actually it is a boat and a bed. This popular Puffin dinghy/bed can be used as a bed and then disassembled and launched on the water. The 8’6” boats are Coast Guard certified and come in a variety of nautical wraps. If you’re wondering, this one is in fact a Lilly Pulitzer print.
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aine is home to dozens of boat shows but there is only one that happens in and around the water—Rockland’s Maine Boats, Homes & Harbors Show, August 11th-August 13th. Shoppers, gawkers and dreamers can roam the waterfront and see an array of boats from some of the world’s leading boat dealers, builders and
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vendors, with almost 200 exhibiters lining Rockland Harbor. Bring an appetite for there are a number of places to eat, and new this year is the Small Boat Love-In. All power or sail boats under 22 feet are welcome for what is described as “a celebratory gathering of folks who love their small craft and we welcome all small boats, no matter how old, new, ratty, or beautiful.” B I R D’S
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MOON OVER MAINE
A Photo Carol Latta
Schooner Olad Photo: Jane Kurko
Moon Quiz—When is the Thunder Moon, Sturgeon Moon and Harvest Moon? Okay, the last one is a gimme: it’s on September 10th and is so bright they wrote a song about it. July 10th is Thunder Moon because of frequent rain storms, and August 7th is your Sturgeon Moon, (it’s the easiest time to catch sturgeon in the Great Lakes). In the northeast, the August moon’s other name, Green Corn Moon, makes a lot more sense. Whatever the moon, one of the best places to enjoy moon magic is on board the 22-passenger classic yacht, Olad, offering full moon cruises on Penobscot Bay. Based in Camden, Olad cruises also include a half day sail and lobster bake on August 17 and a water view of the fireworks during the Camden Windjammer Festival on September 1st. Coastal Maine has to be experienced from a sea side vantage and another great option, also a member of the Bird’s Eye View family, is Camden Harbor Cruises. The classic 40-foot wooden Lively Lady provides passage for a tour of Maine’s lighthouses, an eco-tour to a remote seal habitat, or a cruise that follows the trail of a great Maine tradition:—pulling lobsters.
Fun onboard the Lively Lady with Camden Harbor Cruises.
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PE NOBSCOT, M AI N E Photo: Dennis Welsh
Linda Greenlaw
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etting America’s first female swordfish captain to stop fishing long enough to talk about her newest mystery novel is no easy task, especially when the calls come during Maine’s halibut season. “I love to fish,” exclaims Linda Greenlaw, who won fame and some fortune after being featured in Sebastian Junger’s book, The Perfect Storm. “Not much money in halibut fishing but it is fun and gets me out in the boat while I wait for the lobsters to start crawling.” In spite of a half-dozen books, Greenlaw’s passion is still fishing, and although she realizes how this sounds to struggling writers, she admits the book offers came to her. “I was invited to write The Hungry Ocean because I was mentioned in The Perfect Storm. I never had any interest in writing, but as soon as the book came out, and then of course the movie, my answering machine filled up with offers for me to write my story.” And write she did, both nonfiction about her life in a tiny island off the coast of Maine and stories about her fictional character, quirky Maine detective, Jane Bunker. “I have to say I love Jane Bunker,” says Greenlaw. “I really make an attempt not to make her too much like me, but there are a lot of similarities.” Shiver Hitch, Greenlaw’s latest in the Jane Bunker series, is a great read with rich characters that define quintessential Maine personalities. If you are heading 88
Sebastian Junger’s book started it all for Linda Greenlaw.
for the Pine Tree State tuck a copy under your arm. Otherwise take a vicarious ride with Greenlaw’s Jane Bunker and don’t be surprised if you find yourself longing for biscuits and mussel stew. B I R D’S E Y E V I E W
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little over an hour’s ferry ride from Rockland is the tiny island of Vinalhaven which could easily be plucked from the pages of Linda Greenlaw’s books. With a yearround population of about a thousand, the town swells in summer as visitors flock to the island for the authentic Maine experience. In addition to lobster fishermen, a number of artists and writers also call Vinalhaven home, including Love stamp creator Robert Indiana.
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Photo: Kristi Ruggs
Photo: Nancy McKechnie
Acadia National Park
elcome to Bar Harbor—land of contradictions. You’ll find waterfront mansions formerly owned by the world’s captains of industry, (think Rockefeller and Mellon), rustic cottages, eclectic shopping, awardwinning cuisine, lobster anyway you like it from boiled to Newburg, and yes, even ice cream. Make your first stop the Bar Harbor Chamber of Commerce in the heart of Main Street. This is brochure heaven and the helpful Chamber team can get you started in the right direction. The major attraction in Bar Harbor is the nation’s most popular park, Acadia. This vast treasure includes beaches, hiking trails, and amazing vistas. The perfect way to get started on your Acadia adventure is with Bird’s Eye View favorite Acadia National Park Tours. The drivers are fun, informative, and gossipy. In addition to pointing out landmarks like Acadia’s Cadillac Mountain they can give you a few fun facts about famous locals like Law and Order’s Dick Wolf, Martha Stewart and the Rockefellers. Once you get the lay of the park you can always return on your own time. Acadia is so spectacular it is worth all the time you can give to it. Downtown Bar Harbor
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Katahdin-Maine’s Crown Jewel By Earl Brechlin
South Branch Pond Photos: Earl Brechlin Animators for the 1942 Disney classic Bambi drew their inspiration from time spent with the wildlife in Katahdin, Maine.
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Chimney Pond
ajestic, mile-high Katahdin, the highest point in Maine and northern terminus of the storied Appalachian Trail, is the crown jewel of Baxter State Park in northern Maine. Located in the middle of Great North Woods, Baxter comprises more than 200,000 acres, cobbled together by its namesake, Gov. Percival Baxter, and designated to be “forever wild.” Here former farm fields and logging areas are steadily reverting to their original state, before being subjected to assault by axe and plow. 92
The tree-less, alpine-zone summit of Katadin, at 5,267 feet high, is purportedly the home of the Native American deity Pamola, a creature with the head of a moose, body of a man, and talons and wings of an eagle. It can snow here in any month of the year and even the shortest hiking route means a round trip of 10-12 miles and thousands of feet of lung-busting elevation. In Baxter, the ancient woods and backwaters teem with wildlife, including moose, bear, and deer. In fact, famed Maine illustrator Jake Day, and other Walt Disney studio artists, spent months in the park doing drawings for what would become the characters and backdrops for the film Bambi. B I R D’S E Y E V I E W
MAINE “This cow moose is near a remote body of water called Whidden Pond, only accessible by trailand not far from the spot geographers call the most remote place in Maine.” — Writer/Hiker Earl Brechlin Photo: Kurt Peterson
Earl Brechlin at the top of Maine’s mighty Mount Katahdin
“I am the heaviest guy up there, but I managed to make the 2,200 foot climb in about three and a half hours,” says the somewhat self-deprecating Bird’s Eye View contributor Earl Brechlin, whose day job is editor for Bar Harbor’s Mount Desert Islander. Katahdin also marks the end of the 2,200 mile Appalachian Trail. “We almost always run into hikers who have just completed the entire hike,” says Brechlin. “They are usually the ones leaping from rock to rock.”
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Lobster Fishermen—Blue Hill Town Wharf
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Photo courtesy of the Blue Hill Peninsula Chamber of Commerce
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PENTAGÖET INN & RESTAURANT CASTINE, MAINE
Award Winning Lodging Fine Food and Wine Storied Village by the Sea 207-326-8616 www.pentagoet.com 26 MAIN STREET, CASTINE, MAINE Photo: Gayle Fee CASTINE: Historic Samuel Adams home, circa 1830 & totally remodeled in 2001 with a contemporary flair. First floor master suite, chef’s Kitchen, gleaming wood floors, moldings, privacy shutters. Three floors and widow’s walk. Very close to Castine Golf and Yacht Club. Move in ready. $750,000
www.saltmeadowproperties.com
Dice Head Lighthouse, Castine, Maine
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Main Street, Castine, Maine 207-326-9116 – castine@saltmeadowproperties.com Main Street, Blue Hill, Maine 207-374-5010 – bluehill@saltmeadowproperties.com
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NORTHEAST/SOUTHWEST HARBOR,MAINE Photo courtesy of the Bar Harbor Chamber of Commerce
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free show from Mother Nature can be found a short drive from Bar Harbor in the heart of Northeast Harbor, Maine. Tucked away Asticou Azalea Garden is a Japanese style oasis featuring countless azaleas in every color imaginable, blooming water lilies, benches for quiet contemplation and meandering pathways. Need to stop the world and get off? (who doesn’t?) This is the place.
You have to love a town that every year celebrates a festival dedicated to pink flamingos. On July 14-16, Southwest Harbor, Maine paints the seaside town pink. Music and dancing in the street make this a fun time to visit.
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A Brew Believer
The beer drinking Pilgrims at work aboard the Mayflower diorama at the Pilgrim Monument and Provincetown Museum.
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By Greg Melville
he Pilgrims landed in Provincetown in 1620, short of their eventual destination, because they ran out of beer. True story. They had planned to settle further down the North American coast on the Hudson River—but when their supplies of the breakfast of champions dwindled to almost nothing, drastic action was needed. So they went ashore, pronto.
Katie Kaizer Photography
Our Puritan forebears would be pleased to know that if they faced the same sort of dire straits aboard the Mayflower today, they could find some of the world’s finest, and most interesting, craft breweries hidden along New England’s jagged coast and islands. People on ships drank beer almost exclusively in the Pilgrims’ times because it didn’t spoil when stored in barrels, as opposed to water, which generally did. I, too, drink beer almost exclusively—but I do it because it tastes so darn good, thanks to the golden age of craft brewing in America blossoming before us. This thought crossed my mind as I took a long, smooth sip of Grey Lady Pale Ale outside the tasting shed of Cisco Brewers, on Nantucket, not far from where the parched pilsner-pinched Pilgrims placed their permanent plantation nearly four centuries ago.
Cisco Brewers, Nantucket
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Photo: Eli Dagostino
Fortunately for me as a suds-loving Cape Codder, the New England coast is a beneficiary of this boom. For instance, Cisco is only 30 miles as the gull flies, from my home. Whenever I’m on the island I find an excuse to make my way there. Within stumbling distance of my front door is Hog Island Beer Company in Orleans, which opened two years ago. Then, a half-hour down Route 6 is Devil’s Purse Brewing Company in South Dennis, and Cape Cod Beer in Hyannis. As a brew believer, I pay devout, regular visits to these houses of hops worship.
Bad Martha Farmer’s Brewery & Tasting Room
“Craft breweries have become so mainstream, and going to breweries “Definitely better than water,” I said has definitely become a thing,” says Beth Marcus, the aloud, eyeing the sunflower color of business manager for Cape Cod Beer. She founded the the beer through the glass. Nearby, company with her husband Todd in 2004. During the on a small stage beside the brewery’s first couple of years, Beth delivered cases of beer to cuscobblestoned central courtyard, an tomers in the family minivan. Today they produce 6,000 acoustic duo played guitar as guests 31-gallon barrels annually, all distributed within 50 sat at picnic tables, drinking beer and miles of Hyannis, and thousands of tourists and thirsty eating steamers served by the Lobster Trap food truck parked on site. No one bothered listening locals visit the brewery’s tasting room each summer. “Our focus has always been about being local. It has to my rave reviews of Grey Lady, but if they had, I’m sure never been our goal to take over the world. We want to they would have agreed. give people a reason to come to Cape Cod besides the Born in 1992, Cisco is a relative old-timer in the beaches,” she says. craft beer game, which is expanding rapidly across the The brewery’s tasting room is open every day except country despite flat overall beer sales. In the past seven Sunday. They keep a collection of board games there for years alone, production by craft brewers in the U.S. has families to use, and the brewery holds events like lectures grown nearly 300 percent, according to the Brewers and craft nights regularly, not to mention a monthly Association. In 2016, more than 800 new breweries home brew club meeting and a regular “yappy hour” opened across the country. when dogs are encouraged.
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Photos courtesy of the Monhegan Brewing Company Monhegan Brewing Company
Monhegan Brewing Company, Monhegan, Maine
As inviting as Cape Cod Beer can be, no brewery can beat the down-home atmosphere of the tasting shed at Monhegan Brewing Company. It’s located on Monhegan Island, a grassy apostrophe of land slightly smaller than Central Park that lies 10 miles off the Maine coast. Founded in 2013 by Mary and Matt Weber, the brewery sets up a beer garden in the summer made from lobster traps, and offers an alternating list of beers on tap. 10 0
“What makes us unique is that we’re not worried about a crowded beer market,” says Mary. “On this island, we’re the only show in town.” Monhegan Brewing is known for its Balmy Days Citra-Hopped Kolsch, and Crow’s Nest IPA. More than 95 percent of what the company brews is sold on the island, either poured into a glass or a 64-ounce glass jug known as a growler. “We have one account on the mainland, and it’s only because they begged us,” says Mary. An island-based brewery in New England that carries bigger ambitions than Monhegan is four-yearold Bad Martha, on Martha’s Vineyard. It occupies a garden-wreathed post-and-beam Amish farmhouse. Throughout the summer, more than 50 different styles of beer will be served on tap there—all using a smattering of local ingredients. The tasting room receives more than 50,000 visitors each year and is “kind of an incubator” for testing new brews, says Bad Martha brewmaster Jacobi Reid. If customers like a specific new variety, the company will consider producing it on a much larger scale. In fact, a small emergency supply of Bad Martha Vineyard Summer Ale cans are cooling their heels in my refrigerator at this very moment waiting till I get thirsty enough to crack one open—or in case a Pilgrim in need happens upon my doorstep.
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MONHEGAN, MAINE Monhegan Nightlife…
207.596.0371 www.islandinnmonhegan.com
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Katie Kaizer Photography
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he New England Coast may be a beacon for great beer, but it’s by no means the only place to find quality craft brews. These three small breweries among Cape Air’s destinations are also worth a visit.
Cisco Brewers, Nantucket
Hop ’n Moose Brewing Company Rutland Vermont The first and only brewery in the artsy former mill town of Rutland on the Otter River, they’re famous for their high-octane Bourbon ‘Ator, a stout aged for 15 weeks in wooden bourbon barrels. Uberbrew, Billings, Montana At its tap room and eatery in downtown Billings, you can taste-test the brewery’s internationally recognized offerings, like White Noise wheat beer, and Humulus Insani IPA, which both won gold medals at the 2016 Great American Beer Festival. St. John Brewers St. John, Virgin Islands Started roughly a decade ago by two beach-loving buddies barely out of college, St. John Brewers now also brings a taste of the islands to four states on the U.S. mainland. The tap room in downtown Cruz Bay is open till midnight daily and serves favorites like Tropical Mango Pale Ale and Liquid Sunshine Belgian. 102
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Hiking up Bromley Mountain Photo: Jeremy Hebert
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CHANNELING THE GREEN MOUNTAIN BOYS
Photo: Matthew DeLapp
Vermont’s Long Trail
Making it to the end of Vermont’s Long Trail. Photo: Jocelyn Hebert
Photo: Jocelyn Hebert
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Hikers crossing Camel’s Hump.
ape Air’s flight from Boston’s Logan Airport to the heart of the Green Mountains in Rutland, Vermont connects you to the oldest long-distance hiking trail in the United States. Built in the early 1900s, the 272-mile footpath known as Long Trail follows the ridge of the Green Mountains from the Massachusetts-Vermont border into Canada, crossing Vermont’s highest peaks. Perfect for all hiking levels, Long Trail is varied enough for day hikers, overnighters or the extended backpacker. Often referred to as “the footpath in the wilderness,” Long Trail is maintained by the Green Mountain Club whose founder actually blazed the trail over a century ago. “James P. Taylor was sitting atop Stratton Mountain and had this idea to build a trail to connect the ridges of the Green Mountains,” recalls Kristin McLane, of the Green Mountain Club. Twenty years later the trail was complete. “What is unique about the Long Trail is although you definitely feel like you are in the wilderness you are still close to every Vermonters’ backyard making the Trail accessible to everyone,” says McLane.
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Appalachian thru hiker purifying water at Little Rock Pond on the Long Trail.
To get going with your summer adventure reach out to the helpful folks at the Green Mountain Club for maps, trip planning and info on a number of special events happening this summer. greenmountainclub.org 105
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Photo: Taylor Crichton
ermont’s Dorset Theatre celebrates 40 years this summer with an impressive line-up including Tim Daly, (Madam Secretary) and his sister Tyne Daly (Cagney and Lacy). “This summer, the Festival continues to both foster new voices and produce contemporary hits. All eyes are upon us, and we’re proud of the community support we’ve engendered and how much we’ve built over the past four decades to bring quality theatre to Southern Vermont audiences,” says Board President Patricia Nelson. The Daly team stars in the world premiere of Downstairs, by Playwright-in-Residence Theresa Rebeck. In this thought-provoking family drama. Eileen’s brother Teddy has moved back home and is living in her basement. As brother and sister struggle to understand their present and past, questions of betrayal, disappointment, and madness rise and fall. The show runs thru the 8th of July, followed by Baskerville: A Sherlock Holmes Mystery with five actors playing over 40 characters in a comic adventure by Ken Ludwig. Photo: Nathan Johnson
Brother and sister team, Tim and Tyne Daly
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Recognize the plane?
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ith actor Tim Daly starring in a production near the Cape Air destinations of Rutland, Vermont and Lebanon, New Hampshire, we pause for a brief stroll back in time, 1990 to 1999 to be exact. Tim Daly and Steven Weber starred as brothers in the television sitcom, Wings. Set in Nantucket at Tom Nevers Field, the brothers ran a small airline called Sandpiper Air and yes, seen in the opening credits is a Cape Air aircraft flying across the sky. Although Cape Air’s brush with Hollywood was brief and uncredited, decades later folks still stop and ask, “Isn’t that Cape Air in Wings?”
Photography by Gabriella Mirollo
Made in Vermont
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n addition to being one of the oldest Farmers Markets in New England and pretty much the only one operating year-round, (they go inside during the colder months), the Vermont Farmers Market, in the heart of Rutland is authentic Vermont. “From fruits, vegetables and flowers to maple syrup, to our prepared foods, almost everything we sell at the market is made in Vermont,” says spokesperson Gabriella Mirollo. “Even the vendors selling their wares are the farmers, chefs, and artisans who are delivering and selling their own products.” Open every Wednesday and Saturday, all summer long, the market also features live entertainment from Vermont-based performers. “There is a special connection between vendor and buyer when the person handing over the money is buying the item that someone actually made and that is what farmers markets should be all about,” says Mirollo.
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THE ADIRONDACKS PAUL SMITH’S COLLEGE, YOUR TICKET TO OUTDOOR ADVENTURE
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The summit of St. Regis Mountain
By Lisa Ballard
he Adirondack Park is a six-million-acre outdoor playground. Cape Air flies you into the heart of it when you land at the Adirondack Regional Airport near Saranac Lake. If you’re new to the region, unconfident in your backcountry abilities or flying solo, this massive state park—bigger than Yosemite, Yellowstone and Glacier national parks combined—can be daunting. Paul Smith’s College, nine miles from the airport, is your ticket into the woods, offering a myriad of guided day trips, no matter your ability level.
Photos: Lisa Ballard
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“Paul Smith’s College has always had an open campus,” says Shannon Oborne, the college’s chief marketing officer, “Anyone can use the facilities like the library and the fitness center. We wanted to do even more and outdoor programs were obvious.” Since 1946, the college, located on the shore of Lower St. Regis Lake, has educated students about forestry and environmental conservation. When the state of New York withdrew funding for its Visitor Interpretive Center (VIC) adjacent to Paul Smith’s campus, the college saved the facility. It now bases most of its public outdoor programs there. Some of those offerings are what you would expect, such as hiking, rock climbing, nature walks and bird watching. But Shakespeare in the Park? “It’s outside,” says Oborne with a smile. New this summer, the college is offering disc golf on its new 18-hole course. “Disc-golfers plan their vacations around where they can play,” says Oborne, “And it’s free!” Most of Paul Smith’s outdoor workshops and trips are free and led B I R D’S
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Photos courtesy of Paul Smith’s College
Paul Smith’s College is offering disc golf this summer.
An Adirondack mushroom hunt
by a seasonal staff, which includes two to three students. Specialized outings—such as the fungi trek led by Susan Hopkins, a world-renowned mushroom expert— are hosted by guest pros. What’s more, the college keeps these excursions in its part of the Adirondack Park. Instead of climbing Mount Marcy, you might hike up St. Regis Mountain. It’s not a 4,000-footer, but the view from the top is still a jaw-dropper. “Paul Smith’s College is a stakeholder in the Adirondacks,” explains Oborne, “There are immense crowds on the summits in the High Peaks, trampling the fragile alpine flora. We’ve got uncrowded trails and we want to draw people in this direction and maybe if someone has a great experience, they’ll decide it’s the perfect place to send their kids to college.” SUMMER 2017
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The Adirondacks—A Palette for the Senses
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Barnum Brook by Sandra Hildreth
he expanse of snow-topped mountains and lakes bordered by majestic pines make Saranac Lake and the surrounding towns a virtual feast for the senses, especially for the artists who flock to the area for inspiration. For two decades the Adirondack Artists Guild Gallery, located in Saranac Lake, has been the center of the local arts community. Operating as an artists’ cooperative, members share costs, chores, successes and camaraderie. With membership limited to fifteen artists, there’s enough space for everyone and at any given time visitors can drop into the gallery and meet an artist at work. There are weekly opening receptions giving each artist the opportunity to showcase their work along with weekly art walks. Closing off the summer season is the annual Adirondack Plein Air Festival. Check out the full schedule at adirondackartistsguild.com.
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THE ADIRONDACKS, NEW YORK
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MONTANA: GOOD READS & TASTY TEAS
Photo: Lisa Ballard
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By Lisa Ballard
ou just finished a page-turner on the Cape Air flight to Billings and need a new book, maybe something with local color. You’ll find that perfect read at This House of Books just 2.8 miles from the Billings-Logan Airport, and maybe meet the author as well. This new downtown bookstore is quickly becoming a gathering spot for local literati, bookworms, and game enthusiasts. Differentiating it even further from Barnes & Noble, there’s no coffee, but there’s tea, 150 kinds, blended and pure, all infused on-site. There’s also a huge selection of board games to exercise your brain. However, This House of Books is first and foremost a local bookstore conceived by Montana authors and featuring Montana authors. “After 30 years, Thomas Books, an independent bookstore in downtown Billings, shut down in 2012,” says Carrie La Seur, the Billings-based author of The Home Place, “We cried in our beers then decided the niche needed to be filled, but no one wanted to put up the money and give up their life for it. The mayor thought a co-op was a more sustainable business model and suggested selling shares.” A good idea can quickly turn into a labor of love. La Seur helped spearhead the co-op, recruiting such prominent Montana writers as Scott McMillion (Mark of the Grizzly), and Keith McCafferty (the Sean Stranahan mystery series) to join. To date, about 25 authors have purchased shares in the co-op of which La Seur now serves as board president. “It’s like REI,” explains La Seur, “Members vote for the board and get dividends back, but most of the profits go back into the store.”
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Photo: Lisa Ballard
Since This House of Books opened last October, it has supported its author-members by featuring them on the store’s website and by prominently displaying their books on a table by the main entrance. On most Friday and Saturday evenings, the store hosts a reading and/or a panel discussion by Montana-based poets, novelists, and Native American writers. “The store brings a literary presence back to downtown Billings,” says La Seur, “You don’t need to be published to purchase shares in the co-op. Anyone can own a piece of it and enjoy its success.” Whether you’re looking for a nail-biting thriller, a guide to Yellowstone National Park or the latest non-fiction bestseller, This House of Books likely has it. And if you have no idea what to read next, you might just meet an award-winning Montana author there with a good suggestion. SUMMER
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U.S. VIRGIN ISLANDS
Farm to Table before there was “Farm to Table”
ST. CROIX
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Photo: ©Steve Simonsen
A farm tour with Shelli Brin-Olive
By Michelle Haynes r. Nate & Shelli Brin-Olive of St. Croix’s Ridge to Reef Farm are a moving force for healthy growing and eating and have been leaders in this field since way before the current trend of shortening the time from the farm to your plate.
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Photos: ©Steve Simonsen
St. Croix’s Ridge to Reef Farm — “Top 25 New Favorites in the Caribbean” by ISLANDS Magazine
The bounty from Ridge to Reef Farm.
Fire dancer Julia Coral entertains at events across St. Croix
This tucked away paradise produces organic fruits, vegetables and livestock, feeding hundreds of people across the Virgin Islands. The Farm also features an education program offering weekly guided tours, a B&B with farm stays on the property and communal slow-down dinners, a multi-course feast of delicious local food. Following dinner, your nightly entertainment under the stars may be fire dancing with a local dance troupe. Not your usual Caribbean vacation but one that will have you rethinking your next trip to the supermarket. SUMMER
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Dr. Nate Olive performs weddings against the backdrop of Ridge to Reef Farm.
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ST. JOHN SUMMERTIME IN THE TROPICS
Ancient petroglyphs along St. John’s Reef Bay Hike Photo courtesy of the USVI Department of Tourism
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Photos: Eliza Magro
St. John voted “Best Island in the Caribbean “by the readers of Condé Nast Traveler in the prestigious annual Readers’ Choice Awards.
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Photo: ©Steve Simonsen
By Michelle Haynes
Window to Lameshur Bay from the sugarmill ruins
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ummer in the Caribbean is prime time for honeymooners and families and despite the disparity in those two groups there is more than enough fun in the sun for everyone. On St. John, the smallest of the U.S. Virgin Islands, your, where to go, choice is easy. Most of the island’s nineteen square miles are under the protection of the National Park Service and includes award-winning beaches and miles of hiking trails. Although there are plenty of hiking maps available, I highly recommend taking advantage of the ranger-guided hikes, especially if you have kids in tow. Two favorites are L’Esperance Hike and the Reef Bay Trail, both are fun, and informative, and you get a boat ride as part of the deal. L’Esperance takes you to the plantation ruins, a look at the island’s sacred baobab tree and a chance to inhale your way through the Bay Rum grove that made St. John a world leader in the export of rum. One of the most popular hikes is the Reef Bay Trail. From ancient petroglyphs, to the island’s only waterfall, to an authentic bat cave, this hike has it all. Both adventures end at a gorgeous stretch of beach where you can take a quick dip before hopping on board a boat for a ride back to where you started at the Cruz Bay Visitor Center. Prepare for about a four-hour day and bring water, lunch, snacks, and comfortable shoes. Hikes average $40. Assuming you are in fairly good shape anyone from eight to 80 can easily tackle these hikes. They’re no secret, so advance sign-up is a must at friendsvinp.org. 123
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What to do today? NO SHORTAGE OF ANSWERS ON THE BUSTLING ISLAND OF
ST. THOMAS By Michelle Haynes
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Photo courtesy of the USVI Department of Tourism
Magens Bay
eaches, boating, hiking, eating and shopping, lots and lots of shopping—Charlotte Amalie, the shopping center in St. Thomas, is a mercantile dream with a dizzying array of shops along the waterfront, all featuring the world’s top designers. In addition, don’t pass up a visit to nearby Emancipation Garden where local vendors sell a number of hand-crafted items. Duty-free is the order of the day in the U.S. Virgin Islands and many of the stores are happy to ship your items home. A major tip: the massive cruise ships sitting in the harbor are chock-a-block full of folks ready to hit the shops. There are a number of free guides around the island listing the weekly cruise schedule, so choose to shop when the ships are NOT in the harbor. The stores are a lot quieter and a lot less frantic. On cruise ship days, visit postcard-perfect Magens Bay, one of the most famous beaches in St. Thomas with crystal water, soft white sand, and from food to snorkel equipment, a concession to fit every need. A shout-out here to Bird’s Eye View favorites Bolongo Bay and Miller Manor, at two distinct ends of the accommodations picture. The all-inclusive Bolongo is steps from the beach and big enough to give space to honeymooners and families. Miller Manor, in the heart of Charlotte Amalie, is a short walk to shopping and the ferries heading to St. John and the British Virgin Islands. Their commonality is outstanding service to visitors.
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Fun times at Miller Manor
Mocko Jumbies join the fun at Bolongo Bay Resort.
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Photos courtesy of the USVI Department of Tourism
S T. TH OM A S
They are beautiful but crowded, so save your St. Thomas shopping for a day when the cruise ships are not in port. Photo: ©Steve Simonsen Everyone loves the beaches in the U.S. Virgin Islands.
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VIEQUES
Hammock time for seven-year old Sky Diaz at Navio Beach.
Photos: Kelly Thompson
Navio Beach Waves, Caves & 4-wheel drive
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“Navio is not for the faint of
heart, or low-riding vehicles,” says Kelly Thompson of the Vieques Insider. “The beach is not in a cove like others on the south side so it is exposed to the winds and currents of the Caribbean Sea, making it perfect for body surfing and boogie boarding. Jagged rock formations frame the east and west side of the beach. Visit the cave on the east end of the beach with a waterproof camera. To get to Navio head to route 997 and enter the gated entrance to Sunbay Beach. Follow the beach road to the east end then follow signs to Navio. This is a good place to get unplugged as cell reception is minimal.”
La Chiva Beach
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Photos: Kelly Thompson
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o not leave Vieques without trying the local signature dish, mofongo made of fried mashed plantains. In addition to being a fun word to say mofongo is also quite delicious. Vieques Insider editor Kelly Thompson says, “The mofongo cups are a tapas special at Cafe del Mar across from the beach in Esperanza. The café has delicious Puerto Rican coffee, homemade bread and baked goods and nightly dinner specials.”
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BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS
CELEBRATES SEA & SALSA BITTER END YACHT CLUB
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By Michelle Haynes
njoy the Caribbean with a side of salsa at the annual homage to food, drink, and Puerto Rican culture happening July 21-24 at the sumptuous Bitter End Yacht Club in the British Virgin Islands. “We are delighted that Chef Mario Pagan will be our guest Chef-in-Residence during Sea & Salsa Week this year,” says Bitter End Yacht Club’s Richard Hokin. “Pagan is among the rising stars on the Caribbean culinary scene.” The salsa, (dance not sauce) comes into play nightly with live entertainment and plenty of dance space.
Photos courtesy of BVI Tourism
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Also in the line-up is a lobster getaway to the island of Anegada, renowned for the tastiest crustaceans in all of the Caribbean. Other events include daily yoga, trail hikes, and what is described as “Beach Olympics.” Among the many sponsors of this event is the flagship airline of the Caribbean, Cape Air. “We are thrilled to sponsor this great culinary event that celebrates not only Caribbean cuisine, but also offers a reason for travelers to experience the beauty and uniqueness of the British Virgin Islands,” said Linda Markham, president of Cape Air. “We are delighted to partner with Bitter End Yacht Club on this event that attracts hundreds of cruising enthusiasts, families, and foodies from neighboring Caribbean islands.”
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JULY 23, 2017
Savannah Bay
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our hundred boats, assorted crew, friends and card-carrying party goers descend on Virgin Gorda’s Savannah Bay, for the annual Xmas in July celebration. “Last year surpassed all our expectations and it was a resounding success. Once again we set ourselves to the task of organizing a different event which it has become—one of the most popular of summer as it is designed specifically for sea lovers and the nautical world. Here you will have the opportunity to meet and celebrate the summer in a safe, family and fun environment,” says event co-organizer Wally Castro. This event includes entertainers, DJs, bands and lots of people who love to dance and have a good time. Since Virgin Gorda is one of Cape Air’s Caribbean locations with direct air service from San Juan, Puerto Rico, the airline is one of the event co-sponsors along with Boston Whaler, Red Apple, Patrón, Tito’s Vodka, Magic 97.3, and the British Virgin Islands Tourism Board, to name only a handful. For more info go to party central at wallycastro.com
The famed Baths of Virgin Gorda.
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Photos courtesy of BVI Tourism
Xmas in July happening in the British Virgin Islands
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Fashionistas Head to the Tropics this Summer
TORTOLA’S ANNUAL SUMMER SIZZLE FASHION GALA
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inning raves for her role as a NASA engineer in the acclaimed film Hidden Figures will not get in the way of Taraji Henson’s star turn at what has become one of the British Virgin Islands’ (BVI) most anticipated events of the year. Summer Sizzle, happening July 19-24, is total glam time for fashion lovers, models, designers, and anyone and everyone interested in the fashion industry. Along with the requisite runway shows, Sizzle events include sailing trips, island tours, and over the top dining prepared by some of the BVI’s most famous chefs. New this year is BVI SWIM featuring what is described as a “decadent poolside party,” according to Summer Sizzle founder and CEO Terry Donovan.
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Singer Jessica Jarrell
“The British Virgin Islands with its miles of sun-drenched beaches, and thriving culture of sailing and water-sports is undeniably the most perfect place on Earth for designers to present their swim and resort collections,” says Donovan. B I R D’S
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CAPE AIR EVERYWHERE
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Everyone loves a bargain, especially when it comes to airfares. Do not miss the latest and greatest when it come to Cape The best way to hear about special airfares andAir/Nantucket promotions isAirlines to join fare Capesales. Air’sLog on to capeair.com and click on ...check out details at capeair.com SUMMER
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WE HAVE CONNECTIONS • Book any Cape Air flight
capeair.com 800.CAPE.AIR
• Book any Cape Air flight connecting with United Airlines
united.com
• Book any Cape Air flight connecting with JetBlue
jetblue.com
• Book any Cape Air flight connecting with American Airlines (note — select “advanced options” then “all carriers”)
aa.com
• Book any Cape Air flight connecting with Delta
expedia.com
• Book any Cape Air flight connecting with Seaborne Airlines
expedia.com
• Book any Cape Air flight connecting with Alaska Airlines
expedia.com
G E T TI NG F ROM H E RE TO TH E RE AN D B E YO N D
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By Peter Kokoszka f you are traveling beyond a Cape Air destination, one of our partner airlines can get you onward and beyond to almost anywhere in the world. Visit one of Cape Air’s travel partner websites, shown above, or call a professional travel agent to book convenient connections. Booking your entire trip together on a single ticket is the best way to ensure a seamless journey from start to finish. When you book all of your flights together on one of our partner airline websites, you are automatically booked with the appropriate connecting time between your flights, eliminating the need for a mad dash across the airport. With a single itinerary and ticket, you can generally receive connecting boarding passes and check your bags through to your final destination. Also, in the event of a flight delay, Cape Air has access to your entire itinerary to assist you with rebooking your connecting flight as well as your Cape Air flight. If you choose to book separate tickets for different portions of your trip, be sure to allow enough time between your flights to claim and recheck your baggage and to meet each airline’s check-in time requirements. Most airlines no longer provide through check-in of baggage and boarding passes when you are booked on separate tickets, and you may also be charged separate baggage fees. Another downside to booking your flight on separate tickets is, in the event of a flight delay, Cape Air may not have the ability to access your other airline ticket, and it may be necessary to pay rebooking fees to make a flight change. Save yourself time, effort, and money by booking your complete itinerary together on one ticket. You’ll be glad that you did. Questions? There is never a charge to talk to a Cape Air agent at 1.800.Cape.Air. 142
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jetBlue
SUMMER SERVICE BETWEEN NEW YORK’S JFK AIRPORT AND CAPE COD
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ape Air’s travel partner JetBlue offers nonstop flights from New York arriving in Hyannis at 12:17 pm and departing Hyannis for New York at 12:54 pm. The service operates from June 15th through September 24th 2017. Information for Cape Air & Nantucket Airlines at capeair.com and for JetBlue at jetblue.com.
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CLICK AND YOU ARE THERE.
Meet our advertisers and take advantage of our online clickability. Go to birdseyeviewmagazine.com and click on any ad and you are there. Who is playing where? I want some homemade pasta. What about a lobster dinner or a waterfront hotel? Visit our advertisers for info on where to go, shop and play. We thank them for their years of loyalty and all of you for bringing your business to their door.
BOSTON Boston Harbor Hotel ..................... 147 Macdonald & Wood Sotheby’s ....... 75
CAPE COD AMIE Bakery.................................... 75 Chatham Sign Shop......................... 75 Cape Cod Maritime Museum ......... 69 The Catboat Hyannis....................... 69 Sandwich Glass Museum ................ 69 Yellow Umbrella Books .................... 75
MAINE Acadia National Park Tours ............. 91 Camden Harbor Cruises ............... 85 The Country Inn .......................... 85 The East Wind Inn ..................... 101 FIORE Olive Oils & Vinegars........ 87 House Wine................................. 91 The Island Inn Monhegan .......... 101 The Kimball Shop & Boutique ...... 97 The Lindenwood Inn.................... 96 Lisa Hall Jewelry .......................... 97 The Manor Inn ............................ 95 Monhegan Brewing Company ... 101 Olad and Owl Charters................ 83 Owls Head Transportation Museum .......... 83 Pentagöet Inn & Restaurant......... 95 Point Lookout .............................. 87 Rheal Day Spa ............................. 83 Ripples Inn................................... 87 Rockport Market Place ................ 87 Rooster Brother Store for Cooks .... 94 Sail Acadia ................................... 89 Saltmeadow Properties ................ 95 Seafood Ketch ............................. 93 Shaw Jewelry ............................... 97 Trenton Bridge Lobster Pound ..... 89 Tidewater Motel .......................... 85 Trailing Yew ............................... 101 Window Panes Home & Garden ... 91 WoodenBoat ................................. 94
MARTHA’S VINEYARD The Back Porch Larder ................. 35 Breakwater Real Estate ................ 39 Clarion Inn Martha’s Vineyard ..... 35
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The Collection ............................. 39 Conroy & Company..................... 33 Eisenhauer Gallery ......................... 3 Featherstone Center for the Arts.............................. 42 Fishbones Bar & Grille .................. 43 Flanders Up-Island Real Estate ..... 34 The Grill on Main......................... 42 Harbor View Hotel....................... 33 Hob Knob .................................... 39 Island Alpaca Company ............... 51 Island Spirit Tours & Rentals ......... 47 Karen Overtoom Real Estate ........ 38 Kelley House................................ 33 Kelleher Real Estate ..................... 47 Lookout Tavern ........................... 43 Martha’s Vineyard Chamber of Commerce ........... 33 Martha’s Vineyard Concert Series ......................... 42 Martha’s Vineyard Buyer Agents........................... 49 Martha’s Vineyard Museum ......... 51 MV Seacoast Properties ............... 42 MVY Broker................................. 35 Ocean View Lounge and Restaurant ........................ 43 Polly HIll Aboretum ..................... 38 Sandpiper Realty.......................... 45 Stagecoach Taxi ........................... 38 Tony’s Market .............................. 34 The Trustees ................................ 42 Wallace & Co. Sotheby’s .............. 34
NANTUCKET The Antiques Depot..................... 27 Capt. Toms’ Charters ................... 23 Clay Twombly .............................. 25 Compass Rose Real Estate ........... 17 Barrett’s Nantucket Tours ............. 13 Brass Lantern Inn ......................... 13 Dreamland................................... 25 Emeritus ........................................ 9 Fareground & Pudley’s Pub .......... 26 Johnstons of Elgin ........................ 17 Harborview Nantucket................. 26 Housefitters & Tile Gallery ......... 148
Island Properties Real Estate ........ 16 Magnum Moving & Storage ........ 16 Maury People Sotheby’s Realty...... 2 Michael Kane Lightship Baskets ........................................ 29 Nantucket Atheneum ...................... 13 Nantucket Bake Shop ...................... 23 Nantucket Beach Chair.................... 15 Nantucket Bike Shop ....................... 15 Nantucket House Antiques ............. 27 Nantucket Lightship Basket Museum .......................... 26 Nantucket Pearl Co. ........................ 25 Nantucket Stock .............................. 26 Nantucket Tents .............................. 19 Nantucket Windmill Auto Rental.......................................... 17 Nobby Clothes Shop .................... 23 Sand To Sea ................................. 15 SeaGrille Restaurant..................... 29 Serenella ...................................... 21 Shearwater Excursions ................. 27 Susan Lister Locke Gallery............ 21 Thai House .................................. 25 trACK Nantucket ......................... 16
NEW HAMPSHIRE Century 21 Highview Realty ...... 109 Fireside Inn & Suites .................. 107 Martha Diebold Real Estate ....... 103 The Lyme Inn............................. 107
NEW YORK Adirondack White Pine Cabins... 115 Ampersand Bay Resort & Boat Club .......................... 114 Beglin’s Lake Placid Jewelers ...... 114 Guide Boat Realty ...................... 114 Hotel Saranac ............................ 113 Paul Smith’s College .................. 115 Sandra Hildreth Adirondack Paintings ............. 112 Visit Adirondacks ....................... 112
PROVINCETOWN 12:05 – Javier Echenique ................. 67 Arnold’s Bike Rentals ....................... 55 Art’s Dune Tours .............................. 61
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Snip Salon.................................... 55 Truro Center Castle Hill for the Arts ............. 68 Victor’s Restaurant ....................... 60
ST. THOMAS
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Hill Farm Inn .................................. 109 Vermont Horse Country............. 109
CARIBBEAN:
THE U.S. VIRGIN ISLANDS ST. CROIX The Buccaneer ........................... 120 Palms at Pelican Cove ................... 120 Remax Real Estate ......................... 120
ST. JOHN 340 Real Estate Co. ................... 124 Gallows Point Resort.................. 125 Islandia Real Estate .................... 124 Miss Lucy’s Bar & Restaurant ..... 124 Ocean three six two dining ........ 125 Seaview Vacation Homes ........... 124 Wish Upon A Star Charters ........ 121
Bolongo Bay Resort ................... 129 Calypso Realty ........................... 129 Miller Manor Inn ....................... 128 Black Beard Sports ..................... 131 Vieques Flowers & Gifts ............. 131 The Vieques Insider ................... 131
THE BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS BVI Tourism Board ..................... 137 Dolphin Discovery ..................... 133 Dream Yacht Charters ................ 136 Fort Burt Hotel & Marina ........... 136 Inter Island Boat Sevices ............ 136 Mahogany Car Rentals .............. 133 Smiths Gore Limited .................. 139 Sol Y Sombra Villa ..................... 135 Speedy’s Ferry ........................... 139 Surfsong Resort ......................... 139
FROM PAPER TO SMARTPHONE
By Trish Lorino
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elcome summer and Cape Air’s newest passenger program. Say goodbye to paper and hello to Cape Air’s brand new TravelPass. The ten-ticket books formerly known the Commuter Book has a new name, a new look, and perhaps most importantly, offers an easier than ever before way to book your flight with Cape Air/Nantucket Airlines. No more waiting for the paper book to be delivered via mail. You can manage all of your flights with a simple electronic transaction, easily managed on a desktop, smartphone or tablet. No more paper tickets to keep track of— customers can log in to their TravelPass account and see the number of passes left. For frequent fliers TravelPass 10-packs are priced to offer a substantial savings over standard fares. As for advance bookings, which are rather vital during the busy summer season, the new TravelPass makes it easy to book your flight in advance and there is also a corporate TravelPass for companies who have multiple travelers who need to fly frequently. Look for the new TravelPass this summer at capeair.com.
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INDEX
Bayside Betsy’s Restaurant............... 59 Boatslip Beach Club ......................... 55 Bubala’s Restaurant ......................... 63 Cape Cod Wood Carving ................ 60 Center for Coastal Studies ............... 60 Coldwell Banker Pat Shultz Real Estate.................. 57 Crown & Anchor ............................. 55 The Inn at Cook Street .................... 52 Key West ......................................... 63 Local 186 burgers & beer ................ 63 Mistralino Ristorante ....................... 57 Pilgrim Monument Provincetown Museum .............. 65 Provincetown Art Association and Museum ............................. 68 Provincetown Tourism Board........... 52 Ptown Massage + Bodywork .......... 60 The Red Inn ................................. 52 Relish Bakery & Sandwich Shop .... 59 Seashore Point Residences ........... 57 The Schoolhouse Gallery.............. 68
NEWS AND VIEWS
CURBSIDE TO PLANE SIDE—
DEPARTING NEW YORK FOR THE MOUNTAINS and the SEA
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Photo: Lisa Ballard
By Lisa Ballard
Cape Air’s “ride” to White Plains, New York.
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n 2011 I took my first flight on Cape Air from Lebanon, New Hampshire to New York City. After deplaning in White Plains, a sleek black limo whisked me and the other passengers into Manhattan. I knew my Cape Air ticket included ground transportation into the city, but the limo was an enchanting surprise! As we rolled past Central Park, our driver offered to drop us off wherever we wished enroute to Cape Air’s “official” location at the corner of West 38th Street and 8th Avenue. I slid out at Columbus Circle. Returning to Lebanon two days later, I went to the pick-up address, expecting to find a check-in desk, but nothing in the neighborhood of 38th Street and 8th Avenue resembled an airline office. I phoned Cape Air, worried I would miss the ride back to White Plains. “Do you see a Starbucks across from a Staples?” asked the friendly customer service representative. “Yes,” I replied. “Have a cup of coffee and watch for a car with ‘Cape Air’ on the door.” At precisely the time on my ticket, the limo pulled up. A half-dozen customers scattered around Starbucks picked up their lattes and got in the car with me. We all chuckled at the incongruity of it. Six years later, that Starbucks is still there, and Cape Air still picks up passengers by that same curb, although an even roomier luxury van has replaced the limo. The Big Apple sure offers many unique experiences, including how Cape Air gets you there and takes off. Editor’s Note: Cape Air’s curb-to-plane service also includes flights to Provincetown, Nantucket, and Martha’s Vineyard, and your entire itinerary can be booked at capeair.com or 800.Cape.Air. B I R D’S
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