CEO and MA State Senator Dan Wolf Dan.Wolf@capeair.com 4
*Make our customers happy and have a good time doing it. B I R D’S
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Photo: Jim Wolf
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s those in the buggy whip business learned in the not-so-distant past, innovation can have its way with you if you are not ready to move forward. This is certainly the case in a technology-driven business like the airline industry where online “everything” is the norm. Here at Cape Air, it is a balancing act between ensuring access to the most up-to-date technology while at the same time maintaining our MOCHA* level of service. I am sure many of you remember when we used to store your commuter book tickets at the ticket counter. Security changes and e-ticketing make that a thing of the past, but the sentiment behind that little tin box of tickets remains. We embrace the travel opportunities that online ticketing provides including the ease of booking your entire itinerary with our major airline partners, JetBlue, United and American. But, as we continue to move forward in these ever-changing times, we also Dan with some of the Boston team — Floralee, Edgardo and Claudia strive to maintain our identity as your community airline. We are proud to offer downtown ticket offices in many of our smaller communities where you can walk into our Main Street office and book your flight with a Cape Air team member and our toll-free reservations agents—both an integral part of who we are. As many of you already know our community commitment extends way beyond service. From sponsorship of the local school trip to the nation’s capital to providing air service to those in need of medical services, we support, and will continue to support, hundreds of nonprofits in all our Cape Air destinations. We take that a step further by providing paid time off to our Cape Air team members who are volunteering in their local communities. It is a long-standing policy that provides a win for both the nonprofit and the Cape Air folks. Modern technology with old-fashioned service is a challenge for any business but one we shall continue to work on and improve in 2017. We thank you for your continued business and loyalty and from all of us at Cape Air, a happy, healthy and prosperous 2017.
W I N T E R 2017 PUBLISHER: Dan Wolf
EXECUTIVE EDITOR: Michelle Haynes Michelle.Haynes@capeair.com COPY EDITOR: Jim Hanson DESIGN & PRODUCTION: Chuck Anzalone graphicsgroup@comcast.net ChuckAnzalone.com PHOTO EDITOR: Nancy Woods, BirdsEyeViewMagazine@gmail.com ADVERTISING SALES: Kim Corkran Kimberly.Corkran@capeair.com Rosemary Dooley 508.274.6755 Bobbi Fawcett doitnow141@gmail.com FINANCIAL WIZARD: Laurie Jacobson For billing inquires: Laurie.Jacobson@capeair.com © Bird’s Eye View, 2017 Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited. Advertising rates are available upon request. 410.829.1101 Bird’s Eye View is published by Cape Air, 660 Barnstable Road Hyannis, MA, 02601 Printed by: Sheridan, Hanover, NH Cover Photo: Dorsch Beach, St. Croix, USVI by Steve Simonsen
9 Caribbean 38 Nantucket 50 Martha’s Vineyard 57 Boston 58 Provincetown 63 Cape Cod 67 Maine 70 New Hampshire/ Vermont 75 Adirondacks, NY
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Photo: Steve Simonsen
Stilt dancing at St. Croix’s Buccaneer Resort—Mocko Jumbies or stilt walkers have a pivotal role in Caribbean history and in fact the Mocko Jumbie icon is the logo for the United States Virgin Islands. The athleticism and balance of these dancers is seen at festivals across the islands.
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PHOTOGRAPHERS etting hitched in a Cape Air paradise, a family reunion or a sigh inducing vacation photo on your wall or desk— meet our talented family of photographers and enjoy their spectacular work in this issue.
Photo: Janet Simonsen
Cape Air’s St. Croix Captain Dieter Becker with Steve Simonsen stevesimonsen.com
Cary Hazlegrove, Nantucket NantucketStock.com
Carol Latta, Maine amazingmaine.com Kit Noble in what looks like the moors of Nantucket but is actually Iceland. NantucketStock.com
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Mark Kurtz, The Adirondacks markkurtzphotography.com Photo: Michael Brisson
Tim Johnson paying homage to Martha’s Vineyard’s recent Super Moon timjohnsonphotos.com
Nicole Friedler Brisson Nicole Friedler Photography Martha’s Vineyard nicolefriedler.com
Eliza Magro and daughter Isabel, St John elizamagrophotography.com WINTER
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WHAT DO YOU DO ALL WINTER?
Executive Editor, Bird’s Eye View Michelle.Haynes@capeair.com 8
*Make our customers happy and have a good time doing it.
Who says there is nothing to do on a winter’s day in Provincetown? Find the Blue Chair (at press time in front of Town Hall) and make your own P’town memory. Hint for your photo op: head in front looks better than feet first. Photo: © Kit Noble
f we only had a nickel... For those of us who live in Cape Air’s summer destinations the question of what to do in winter is pretty much a constant and the answers run the same—cozy fires, a local museum, and occasionally, live music. Over on Martha’s Vineyard, the island’s acclaimed film festival provides a great escape so be sure to check out our preview on page 52. Also in this issue Nantucket author Nathaniel Philbrick shares a few of his favorite winter island haunts and although we all may not be as hardy as Nantucket’s surfer/ photographer Jonathan Nimerfroh, seen on page 38, there is something magical about walking the beach as the light fades in the steel grey of winter dusk. Meanwhile at the other end of the of the Cape Air route map the light bright colors of the Caribbean beckon and we have a great preview of where to stay and play including a visit to the wildly popular swim with the dolphins attraction on the island of Tortola. From the ski slopes of Vermont to a wintry hike in the Adirondacks, we will get you headed in the right direction. Winter often gets a bad rap so it may also be helpful to keep this quote from Victor Hugo in mind. “Laughter is the sun that drives winter from the human face.”
Tortola’s dolphin ride makes for the ultimate photo op.
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Photo courtesy of the USVI Department of Tourism
Frederiksted, St. Croix
To get into a St. Croix frame of mind check out gotostcroix.com. Wendy Solomon and her team are the ultimate source for your St. Croix trip planning. For a major incentive on a winter’s day check out their live webcam. WINTER
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ugar factory, cotton field, cattle farm, and guest house to one of the premier vacation resorts in the Caribbean—St. Croix’s award-winning Buccaneer Resort can lay claim to a storied and colorful history. The family-owned Buccaneer is celebrating seventy years in the hotel business and while honoring their past, the Armstrong family continues to ensure the hotel is cutting-edge for today’s guests.
St Croix’s Buccaneer Resort circa 1946 By Fritz Henle
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THE BUCCANEER RESORT Photos: Steve Simonsen
“Our employees are an important part of The Buccaneer family. Many on our team have been with us for decades and our returning guests love seeing familiar faces year after year. We have a gorgeous setting here at The Buccaneer but it is consistency of service from our staff that makes the difference.” — The Buccaneer’s Elizabeth Armstrong 12
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“The best tennis resort in the Virgin Islands”—Tennis Magazine
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ay the name Peter Burwash International to tennis folks and you are bound to get a fist pump. One of the world’s premier tennis management companies is now at The Buccaneer offering tennis instruction and daily tennis activities on the resort’s eight courts, two lit for night games.
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St. Croix’s Christiansted Harbor, circa 1950
Photos: Fritz Henle
Vintage St. Croix
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intage works of famed Time-Life photographer Fritz Henle, paintings by his daughter, the late Maria Henle and a continuing legacy with his photographer daughter Tina can all be enjoyed at the Henle Gallery in the heart of St. Croix’s Christiansted. German born Fritz Henle’s career spanned six decades beginning in 1937 as a photojournalist with Life magazine and continuing as one of the top fashion photographers in the world. “It was a photo shoot in St. Croix that brought him here to the island,” says his daughter Tina. “He fell in love with St. Croix and moved here for good in 1955. He loved the beauty, light and culture that St. Croix offers and he taught me how to understand the importance of the light when shooting photos.”
Christiansted, St. Croix—Holiday Magazine,1948
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Photo: Tina Henle
Tina Henle in her St. Croix gallery
“Under the guidance of my father I have been photographing St. Croix for almost forty years. Photojournalism and travel are my passions along with wedding photography which keeps me busy here in St. Croix where the tropical light is as good as it gets with vivid colors and beautiful contrasts,” says photographer Tina Henle. WINTER
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ST. JOHN
Photo courtesy of the USVI Department of Tourism
The Daily Show in St. John—Sunset.
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unset or sunrise, the blue-green Caribbean outside your window, a deck-side view of the island’s tree tops, or the breezes blowing for your hammock nap, choosing a vacation villa for your St. John escape often comes down to geography. Of course, price plays a major role, but there are SO many choices that your best bet is always the local folks in the business of matching vacation homes to budgets, preference and availability. You tell them what you want and can afford and they go to work. Often times the change of a week can bring the price down so having someone on the other end of the phone, ready to work with you, is a great way to start. The smallest island in the United States Virgin Islands, St. John offers hundreds of miles of National Park to explore and no shortage of water sports, gorgeous beaches and a brisk nightlife with award-winning restaurants.
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Photos: Eliza Magro
S T. JO H N ’ S M I SS LUC Y ’ S
The hottest place in St. John, and we are not referring to the weather—if you love jazz, great food and tasty mimosas with a water view, Miss Lucy’s Sunday brunch is an absolute must. Located in Coral Bay, you need to drive, cab or take the $1 bus from downtown Cruz Bay, but just get there. A long time member of the Bird’s Eye View family, Miss Lucy’s could very well be the highlight of your vacation.
Rich Greengold on sax and flute and Eddie Bruce on guitar.
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A St. John welcome at your ferry arrival in Cruz Bay.
No shortage of shopping in St. John’s Cruz Bay and the good news is many of the stores will ship your items home.
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Photos: Steve Simonsen
View Favorite
Take advantage of Gallows Point beach outside your door or, make it a hike to the beach day, with a visit to award-winning Salomon Bay.
Fresh off the boat!
T Open to all, Gallows Point guests and otherwise, is the resort’s famed restaurant Ocean 362, featuring the culinary creations from Chef Shaun Brian. Named to Zagat’s prestigious “Top 30 under 30,” Chef Brian keeps the menu fresh and local with innovative dishes that will be the highlight of your vacation, and with his ever changing menu you’ll find yourself returning time and time again.
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hirty-plus years ago Gallows Point Resort was a tiny cluster of cottages overlooking Cruz Bay’s harbor, and one of the first things you spotted upon your ferry arrival into St. John. Still located on the hillside and offering exquisite views, Gallows is now one of the premier waterfront resorts in the Virgin Islands. Honeymooners, friends, and families can enjoy their own little beach complete with hammocks, lounge chairs and, a short swim away, a water float securely anchored where it is just you and the pelicans for the ultimate sun bath. The units are furnished with Caribbean flair and all the amenities you can imagine including satellite TV, wifi and a modern kitchen which the super efficient Gallows team is happy to stock for you, or you can do your own provisioning at the nearby supermarket. The vibe here is the best, with a tropical setting among the palm trees and walking distance to everything in bustling Cruz Bay. Or don your hiking sneakers for a trek to the crystal perfect and private Salomon Bay. Pack lunch and plenty of water and settle yourself into beach heaven. B I R D’S
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ST. THOMAS
Photo: Dean L. Barnes
Boats and more boats head to St. Thomas for the crown jewel of Caribbean yacht racing
THE ST. THOMAS INTERNATIONAL REGATTA — MARCH 24-26, 2017
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osted by the St. Thomas Yacht Club, this upcoming race features Multihull; CSA Bareboat; Beach Cat; and One Design classes with a minimum length of 20 feet. It is considered to be the most user-friendly sailing competition in the Caribbean. The race tune-up is the Round the Rocks Race, on March 23 and includes a circumnavigation of neighboring St. John. “Our inter-island race venue here in the U.S. Virgin Islands is the perfect platform to launch a large number of diverse classes,” says regatta director, Chuck Pessler. “This is the invitation we’d like to offer to sailors around the world for 2017, whether you prefer one hull or two, racing or cruising or just watching and enjoying our lively shoreside beach party scene.”
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America’s Caribbean Playground—
St. Thomas, United States Virgin Islands
Photos: Steve Simonsen
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A bird’s eye view of Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas
number of award-winning beaches, a golf course high on the list as one of the best in the world, along with a number of cultural landmarks, make St. Thomas a great choice for those who like to be one with the action on their tropical vacation. Knowing how to maneuver around the busy island is somewhat crucial so as to avoid dreaded traffic and crowds. The massive cruise ships lined up in the harbor in bustling Charlotte Amalie spill forth hundreds and hundreds of passengers a week and they usually head to the downtown area to take advantage of those magic words—duty free shopping.
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Lindquist Beach
Photo courtesy of the USVI Department of Tourism
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S T. TH OM A S Photo courtesy of the USVI Department of Tourism
To avoid the crowds, pick up a copy of St. Thomas & St. John This Week, available everywhere, including next to your Cape Air arrival in St. Thomas.
It is a great guide to what’s happening and also conveniently lists the exact days when the cruise ships arrive in the harbor. Check for the, sans ships, day and that is the best time to activate your shopping genie. You will have the stores pretty much to yourselves to hunt among the designer goods, local art and a wide variety of jewelry. When your appetite alarm rings, head for Gladys’ Cafe, down one of the little side streets. Great food, lots of locals and Gladys herself gliding around the tables ensuring everyone is happy. Bille, Ella and Dinah provide the background music. Air-conditioned, Gladys’ provides a cool respite in every sense of the word. When the cruise ships are in the harbor is the time to run to the beaches. Coki, Magens Bay or Sapphire are all quite gorgeous and provide the amenities many beach lovers want including lunch, lounge chairs and water toys. And of course, everywhere you look is the crystal blue green water and white sands that the Virgin Islands are famous for.
Coki Dive Center
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Photo: Steve Simonsen
Built in 1679 and located in historic downtown St. Thomas, the 99 Steps is one of the island’s most famous landmarks. Made from the ballast off the Danish ships the Steps were reportedly built as a lookout point by Blackbeard and others of his ilk. Today it is a heart rate pumping work out but the payoff is an amazing view. This is one of those touristy, but well worth it, things to do. And no, when you get to the top you did not count wrong, there are actually 103 steps.
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VIEQUES
It’s our best kept secret that should be shared with the world.
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By Kelly Thompson, Publisher, Vieques Insider
here are few places left in the world like Vieques. Proof of that is seen in its natural treasure, the Bioluminescent Bay. Declared the brightest in the world by the Guinness Book of World Records, taking a guided boat tour on the bay is an experience that will stay with you for a lifetime. It’s what makes Vieques a nature lover’s ultimate destination and reason to pack your bags. Add the pristine beaches, cultural sites and festivals, horses roaming free on the shore and top it off with a trip to the brightest bioluminescent bay in the world. What I’m really proud of is the how the island entities have come together to protect the bay. Conservation is key and all of the guides are aware of its fragility. It’s really hard not to brag about it. What is hard is capturing the memory in a photo. To get this cover shot for Vieques Insider, Karl Alexander used all the latest technology to track the position of the Milky Way on the night of the shoot. Meticulous scouting excursions to the bay happened before actually going on location. Mark Martin, champion of the bay who knows it like the back of his hand was part of the crew. Of course, in nature you can’t plan for everything, and shooting bioluminescence is no easy task. Watching Karl shoot the cover shot of the biobay was like watching a scientist in the lab, artist in the nighttime studio and most vividly a kid at play. The magic of the glow brings out your inner child, your deepest attachment to the earth and that pure emotion…elation!
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The Boys are Back in Town at La Chiva Beach, Vieques
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Photo: Kelly Thompson
eet Vieques resident, writer, photographer, and graphic designer, Kelly Thompson and her daughter Sky. A long time Bird’s Eye View contributor, Kelly is the one woman band behind the most comprehensive guide to the island, Vieques Insider. This is an invaluable resource for where to go, stay, eat, and play along with important island phone numbers, a handy map and sumptuous images. Find it on line at viequesinsider.com or upon your Cape Air arrival at the airport. Right now the price of the guide is right—free of charge.
Kelly Thompson caught this fun image at La Chiva Beach inVieques.
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VIEQUES Photos: © Kit Noble/NantucketStock.com
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cuba diving, bio bay tours, kayaking, hiking and eco tours of all kinds offered by Black Beard Sports, the premier outfitters in Vieques. Visit them at their shop in the heart of the island’s busy capital, Isabel Segunda and start exploring with guides who put the fun in adventures. You don’t have to take our word for it. Check them out on TripAdvisor.
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Photos: © Kit Noble/NantucketStock.com
VIEQUES FLOWERS & GIFTS
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olorful masks, locally made jewelry and a varitey of objets d’art can all be found at Vieques Flowers & Gifts in the heart of the seaside village of Esperanza. This is the, don’t miss, place to pick up some singular gifts and remembrances of your Vieques vacation. The helpful staff will ship your purchases home so no schlepping necessary.
“Vieques is a special island with old time Caribbean feel. Horses roaming the streets is a frequent sight and you can find beautiful white sand beaches and secluded spots where you can relax for hours. When it is time to leave the beach in search of sustenance there are no shortage of restaurants or eateries to choose from. A must do when you are in Vieques is to go to the Bio Bay. It is a magical experience not to be missed!” — Denise Wallenius, owner of Vieques Flowers & Gifts WINTER
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BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS
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BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS Photos: © Kit Noble/NantucketStock.com
“There’s nothing quite like coming nose to nose (or cheek to mouth) with one of these magnificent animals. Tip: don’t raise your torso too high when performing the beak push trick... The higher you raise your torso, the more likely you are to come too far out of the water.” — Bird’s Eye View dolphin rider, Emme Duncan
“They call him Flipper, Flipper, faster than lightning. No one you see, is smarter than he. And we know Flipper, lives in a world full of wonder. Flying there-under, under the sea!” —Flipper TV series-1960s
U “Our certified dolphin specialists share with you their knowledge and love for the dolphins and visitors have their choice of a kiss, a hug, a handshake, a song and dance and demonstrations of all the tricks our dolphins have learned.” — Camané Carlos Manuel, Tortola’s Dolphin Discovery Program
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nless you’re catching reruns on TV, if you still remember the Flipper lyrics and his pal Ranger Ricks, then Tortola’s popular Dolphin Discovery is for you. Fans of the show or those looking for time with these sociable bottlenose dolphins can enjoy a choice of water adventures with special excursions for kids of all ages. 33
Pack the hiking sneakers with the flip flops and experience the first national park in the BVI, Sage Mountain. As you hike the 86-acre park, tip your hat to conservationist Laurance Rockefeller who gifted the property to Tortola. Hike the trail to the highest point (1,716 feet) in the British and U.S. Virgin Islands, bring water and lunch and enjoy the moment. The view will take your breath away. commotion at the ferry terminal as locals and visitors island hop for work and play, but overall the mood and pace in the BVI is a laid-back mixture of British reserve and local friendliness. Lost in the maze of Tortola’s back streets on my way to the tourism office, a local woman took me by the hand, literally, and went a block out of her way to deposit me at the door. Not exceptional behavior in the BVI where the importance of tourism to their economy is recognized and welcomed. You can spend the lion’s share of your BVI getaway on some of the Sugar and rum—for centuries the life blood of the Caribbean— most spectacular beaches in the Tortola’s Callwood Rum Distillery is the longest continuously operated world but do not miss the chance to distillery in the Virgin Islands and is well worth a visit. get out and explore, and along the By Michelle Haynes way meet some of the folks who help tep off the plane, connect with your ride, check into your digs and make the BVI a singular vacation take a moment. Like honey down the side of the jar the languid pace destination. of the British Virgin Islands (BVI) slowly and gently takes over. There is the usual mercantile bustle in Tortola’s downtown and the overall
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BEYOND THE BEACH IN THE BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS
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Photos: © Kit Noble/NantucketStock.com
Tortola’s Palm-Fringed Paradise by Michelle Haynes
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fter my first visit to Tortola’s tucked-away Surfsong my reaction to the waterfront resort nestled in the palm trees was immediate—if Tarzan and Jane opted for a Caribbean escape—Surfsong is it. The five-acre property, literally minutes from your Cape Air arrival in Tortola, could double as a Hollywood set for private and romantic with villas in perfect harmony with the tropical landscaping. From the moment you are scooped up at the airport by a Surfsong staff member, your total, escape from it all, vacation is on. Personal concierge services will help you do as little or as much as you wish. Couples, wedding parties, family reunions or a gang of girl friends—check out Surfsong— a one-of-a-kind paradise that has to be experienced.
At your service, Surfsong owner Cate Stephenson
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NANTUCKET
Photo: © Cary Hazlegrove/NantucketStock.com
Ice Boating on Hummock Pond—folks find all kinds of ways to embrace winter on Nantucket. “Ice sailing is popular over here. Wind surfers and kite boarders have these super sleds with sails and take to our frozen ponds for a day on the ice. Some of the locals really love it and our winter visitors bundle up and join the fun.” —Michael Galvin, Nantucket Chamber of Commerce Photo: Jonathan Nimerfroh
Are they crazy? “Wetsuits are super warm these days. You can surf for hours even if the water temperature is in the 30s.” — Photographer and surfer Jonathan Nimerfroh 38
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“This is a special time in Nantucket. My 90-year old father and I enjoy a winter lunch by a fireplace and then ride out to S’conset and make a stop out at Altar Rock for the best view of the island.” — Nathaniel Philbrick
Photo: © Kit Noble/NantucketStock.com
HEATHCLIFF! I swear I heard that ring across the moors on my last hike to Altar Rock. One of the highest points in Nantucket, this is a doable hike off Polpis Road that leads to a number of old jeep trails and miles of heath and heather. The trail is punctuated by a large rock with a cleft known to all as Altar Rock. Was it used as a ceremonial site by the early Native Americans, or is it just a stone worn by erosion? It depends on who you ask but this breathtaking location, preserved and protected by the Nantucket Conservation Foundation and open to one and all, is a breathtaking location that reminds you why Nantucket is one of the most spectacularly beautiful places in the world. — Michelle Haynes
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WI NTE R FAVO R ITE S WITH NATHAN I E L PH I LB R IC K
“You must love solitude to live in Nantucket in the winter but I can also walk from my house to Main Street and sit at the pharmacy counter and have lunch with a group of people and I love that. To be able to dip into that community is so important to me.” — Nathaniel Philbrick, seated second from left
Photo: © Kit Noble/NantucketStock.com
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hen asked to name his favorite winter haven, author Nat Philbrick did not miss a beat— the counter at the Nantucket Pharmacy. Warm, welcoming with great grilled cheese sandwiches served with an old-fashioned throw back, ice cream soda. This place is so local you expect Floyd the Barber to walk thru the door. Photo: © Greg Hinson/NantucketStock.com
The glow of the pharmacy on Nantucket’s Main Street. 40
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Plus ça change, plus c’est la même chose Illustration by George Heap
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“Benedict Arnold had so much ability but his need for stature and money and a fear the Americans were losing the war were his undoing, coupled with the active participation of his wife Peggy who joined him in the final act of treachery.” —Nathaniel Philbrick, Valiant Ambition
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Philadelphia in 1778 was the largest city in the American colonies.
antucket author Nathaniel Philbrick has done it again with another page-turner about one of our nation’s most polarizing political figures. The drama and back story surrounding one of the most infamous traitors of all time, the ruthlessly ambitious Benedict Arnold, is fascinating and Philbrick weaves his usual magic placing the reader in the heart of the tumultuous days of the Revolution. Philbrick takes us from the bloody battlefields to the intrigue and treachery happening in Philadelphia with the battling Continental Congress. “As I write I am always astonished by the relevance of the past to our present and the parallels that hit us over the head,” says Philbrick. “What is happening today in Washington is pretty much the way it was in the beginning. People have a tendency to look at the past as a simpler time but that’s hogwash. The past is not altruistic and even as iconic a man as Washington was plagued by all sorts of motivations but he had enough self-confidence to push forward and let others say how great he was. Arnold was a different person and the qualities that made Arnold such a great commander in battle were his Saratoga National Historical Park’s “Boot undoing off the field.” Monument,” near where Arnold suffered the Do not wait for the movie (already leg injury that initiated his desent into treason. a buzz). Curl up with Valiant Ambition Without mentioning the traitor by name, the monument describes Arnold as “the most to take the chill off a winter day or brilliant solider of the Continental Army.” pass the time under your favorite palm tree. It does bring a bit more perspective to life these days from a man described by Jeff Ayers of The Associated Press as, “a writer who takes dry facts of history and turns them into exciting prose.” 41
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F O R A W I N T R Y N A N T U C K E T G E TA WAY Photos: © Kit Noble/NantucketStock.com
Winter in Nantucket offers accommodations way, way down to the $100 per night range, and look no further than two long-time members of Cape Air’s Bird’s Eye View family.
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nnkeepers Diane and Mitchell Carl have been welcoming guests at their historic Hawthorn House since 1984. Hand-hooked rugs and local art are featured throughout the nine rooms and come morning, you have breakfast vouchers good at a number of nearby restaurants. Hawthorn House owner Mitch Carl with Layni and Roux. Well-behaved dogs always welcome at the Hawthorn House.
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Photos: Š Kit Noble/NantucketStock.com
PERIWINKLE INN
Walking distance to downtown is the historic Periwinkle Inn, featuring king or queen canopy beds in most rooms, and fresh fruit and pastries in the sunny breakfast room. In spite of the New England traditional feel, both inns offer cable TV and, if you need to stay connected, high speed wifi.
Breakfast at the Periwinkle Inn
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NEVER FAR FROM THE ACTION
For NFL lovers—as we write these words, you know who is in first place—but we all know about sure things and we do not want to be the ones to jinx anything. What we do know for sure is the best place to enjoy the games is local favorite Faregrounds Restaurant and Pudley’s Pub. The chowder is the best and with TV screens all over the place you miss none of the action. Photos: © Kit Noble/NantucketStock.com
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NANTUCKET Courtesy of the Nantucket Historical Association Photo: © Kit Noble/NantucketStock.com
A “must see” for visitors —Ric Burns’ film Nantucket plays daily at the Whaling Museum. Photo courtesy of the Nantucket Historical Association
“Nantucket is so much more than a summer playground,” says filmmaker Ric Burns. “My goal with this film is to offer every island visitor an opportunity to truly understand the global role that the island has played throughout history.”
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hirty miles out to sea, life moves at different pace at one of the most famous summer playgrounds in the world. For writers, artists, lovers, friends, or for anyone looking to stop the world for a bit, the hush of Nantucket in winter offers a singular escape. The shortage of organized events and festivals offers visitors the total leisure to do absolutely nothing and there are just enough restaurants and attractions to keep you occupied. At the top of the short list is the Nantucket Whaling Museum in the heart of downtown. In addition to a fascinating look at Nantucket’s legacy as the whaling capital of the world, the museum’s collection includes the film Nantucket, from award-winning filmmaker Ric Burns. Tracing the island’s early roots when it served as home to the Native Americans to life today as the wildly popular vacation destination, the 50-minute film is a gorgeous valentine to Nantucket.
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Back in the day from the film Nantucket.
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The gingerbread houses in Oak Bluffs take on a fairy tale feel in the quiet of winter. Photos: Tim Johnson
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Get out of the cold with a movie. Despite a sign to the contrary Vineyard Haven’s Capawock Theatre is open and showing first run movies all winter long.
BPhoto: I R©DGreg ’ SHinson/NantucketStock.com EYE VIEW
M ARTHA’ S VI N E YARD
Nicole Friedler Photography
“For a perfect winter day, stroll out to the Edgartown lighthouse and enjoy the quiet of the town. If you’re lucky you’ll be able to enjoy a snowy winter scene.” —Martha’s Vineyard photographer Nicole Friedler Brisson
Field Gallery in West Tisbury WINTER
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17th Annual
MARCH 16-19, 2017
Great food, mix and mingle with locals and visitors and, oh yes, they show movies too. Photo: Joshua Robinson-White
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Pick your hayloft at one of the more unique film festival venues. Photo: Reece Robinson Do the Right Thing; Mo’Better Blues; Malcolm X —award-winning filmmaker Spike Lee at the Martha’s Vineyard Film Festival
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he last official weekend of winter is a perfect time for the festival,” says the understandably biased festival founder Thomas Bena. “We have some of the best filmmakers in the world coming here directly from Sundance. We screen their movies and then give the audience time to meet and connect with the filmmakers in a small intimate setting.” The festival’s programming and managing director Brian Ditchfield says presenting great movies is just one part of the festival’s long time success. “We look for outstanding movies but oftentimes the guests arriving with the movie really make it special and add to the discussions and events following the screenings. The community involvement is truly the best part, for our audience is made up of both locals and visitors.” B I R D’S E Y E V I E W
M ARTHA’ S VI N E YARD
Photos: Reece Robinson
“The Wolfpack was one of last year’s most talked about documentaries and we were able to bring in the boys and their mother to the festival. The event was an instant sell out.” —Thomas Bena, Martha’s Vineyard Film Festival Ed Note: The award-winning documentary, The Wolfpack, is a disturbing, but ultimately inspiring, story of six brothers confined for years in a New York apartment whose only contact with the outside world was thru movies. Life changes when one brother goes outside.
“We offer filmmaking classes for kids to both locals and visitors. It really is a fabulous blend of our community here in Martha’s Vineyard and we get to encourage the next generation of filmmakers.” Last year’s award winning documentary was SRO at the Martha’s Vineyard Film Festival.
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— Brian Ditchfield, Martha’s Vineyard Film Festival
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May be Coming to a Theatre Near You
“The film is sparking social action and from the Hamptons to San Diego to beachside towns like Duxbury, Massachusetts, folks are realizing they need to lobby for change and get involved to ensure they retain the character of their local communities.”
H “The film eloquently presents a thought-provoking question every community must ask itself—what is it we value about our town, our community, and what is our responsibility in protecting it?” — Kristin Andres, Association to Preserve Cape Cod
e was a carpenter who bit the hand that fed him in a big way. Quiet bucolic Chilmark, home to about 900 people, is one of the most laid back communities in Martha’s Vineyard. In the 1980s, when former surfer/vagabond Thomas Bena put down roots in Chilmark and found work as a carpenter, the building boom was flourishing and with the uptick came the increase in lot sizes. The houses got bigger and bigger until Bena had enough. The man who never went to film school embarked on a decade-plus crusade to limit house sizes and put an end to McMansions with his documentary, One Big Home.
Photo: Kate Davis
“Pushing for a limit to house and lot size is a prickly issue and we did not know if audiences would run from the film or run to it, but people are having a visceral reaction and we are selling out from San Diego to Duxbury, Massachusetts. People are telling me the same story; their communities are being overrun with big empty homes.” — Filmmaker Thomas Bena
Certainly kindred spirits, filmmaker Thomas Bena with legendary rabble-rouser, the late Mike Wallace.
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— Thomas Bena, filmmaker
“It is not just one man rallying against big homes. It is far more nuanced,” says Bena. “I am not anti-development but pro-community and I hope the film sparks community action. People need to step up and get involved to protect their sense of place. Make your voices heard on your local zoning and planning boards. You can make a difference.” For a while, Bena’s campaign did not make him a popular guy in the local coffee shops but he persisted and not only won over his neighbors but saw an ultimate victory in 2013 when Chilmark residents overwhelmingly approved a zoning change limiting home size. B I R D’S
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PROVINCETOWN
Photo: Chuck Anzalone
“I believe January and February are the best time of year to pamper yourself. Provincetown has a rich spa and many wellness activities to help rejuvenate and prepare you for the year to come. I also consider the winter season in Provincetown the most romantic time of all. The restaurants offer wonderful seasonal menus, the inns are equipped with hypnotizing fireplaces, walks in the Province Lands on nature paths and quiet moments together make everlasting memories.” —Anthony Fuccillo, Provincetown’s Director of Tourism
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PROVINCETOWN “There is a hauntingly beautiful and astounding quality to Provincetown in winter that pulls at my heart strings more than any other place in the world. Imagine walking outside as the snow is falling. It is powdery and soft and you are cocooned in this blanket of warmth in your jacket and for a moment you cannot see or hear anyone else. For me that feeling is Provincetown in winter.” —Radio personality, Chef Rossi
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Photo: Chuck Anzalone
PROVINCETOWN
Photos: Provincetown Office of Tourism
Open year round and offering a great way to get out of the cold is the Provincetown Art Association and Museum, home to some of America’s most famous artists including, Charles Webster Hawthorne, Henry Hensche, Hans Hofmann, Robert Motherwell, Man Ray, John Singer Sargent and Andy Warhol.
Protected by Provincetown Harbor, winters are seldom harsh in the cape tip town and sans the summer crowds biking is a total joy along the pier and down the town’s Commercial Street.
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PROVINCETOWN Photo: Eitan Shapira
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“Chef Rossi is a new breed of rebel anti-caterer” —New York Times
he cape-tip town of Provincetown holds a special place in the heart of Rossi, one name only, who is making the literary rounds with her book, the raging skillet the true life story of chef rossi. The selftaught chef is the go-to favorite of New York’s glitterati and earning accolades from everyone including The Huffington Post and Zagat, who calls her, “The wildest thing this side of the Mason-Dixon line.” In addition to her flourishing catering business, Rossi’s food/memoir column and blog is read worldwide along with a regular gig on public radio with her show “Bite This.” Meeting her in person is exactly like reading her book, funny, irreverent and full of unorthodox recipes like Snickers and Potato Chip Casserole and Eggs I’d Cook for Elvis. Chef Rossi calls herself a rebel cross between Joan Jett and Janis Joplin. “I learned early on that I have a terrible time with authority figures and I could not work under horrible misogynist chefs who would do anything possible to make you quit, especially if you were a woman. I held on and managed to work myself up to head chef at a catering company where I read a lot of books, practiced recipes on friends and hired some really great sous chefs. I somehow managed to pull it off.”
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The Chef ’s offbeat parties include a Jewish/Jamaican wedding menu and a dinner served on ice in a giant antique bathtub—Rossi loves the unexpected. Growing up in an Orthodox Jewish household under her mother’s singular parenting style plays a prominent role in her poignant memoir that is attracting early interest from both playwrights and screenwriters. “Before she died, my mother made me promise to immortalize her so I am sure she is kvelling like there is no tomorrow.” B I R D’S
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What Good is Sitting Alone in your Room…
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hen was the last time you lounged across a piano and crooned show tunes? Okay so you can’t actually lie on the piano but you can get next to it and enjoy the incomparable cabaret star Bobby Wetherbee at The Central House at the Crown & Anchor. From Broadway to the Great American Songbook he knows them all.
Performing Valentine’s Day, this is a perfect escape for romance, music and great food with the culinary delights by way of award-winning chef Michele Ragussis.
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CAPE COD, MASSACHUSETTS
PROVINCETOWN
“With roots in the 17th century, pies are pure New England. Simple and direct, pies were early America casting off the aristocracy and embracing the austerity of a new republic.” — Robert Cox, author of New England Pie: History Under a Crust
Photos: ©Priscilla Roberti
Mother and daughter duo: Cape Air’s Camila Santos and seven-year-old Bella are one with the dough at Cape Cod’s Centerville Pie Company as they show off their finished apple pie during a pie making
Let ‘em Eat Pie!
National Pie Day—January 23rd or stretch it further during February’s National Pie Month.
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ie du jour, Pie à la Mode, pie with cheese, fruit pies, meat pies, single crust or four and twenty black birds—America loves pie and so do a number of folks in the Cape Air family including the Centerville Pie Company in the heart of Cape Cod. Over a decade ago, Oprah put them on the map when she sang to the world the praises of their chicken pot pie, and owners Laurie and Kristin continue to attract a huge audience of pie lovers.
It’s never too soon to learn how to make the perfect pie crust.
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Pie-loving author and University of Massachusetts Professor Robert Cox added pies to his trilogy of food books with New England Pie: History Under a Crust. “For the early settlers it was all about survival and pie was the most economical way to take local ingredients, be it meat caught from the day’s hunting or whatever fruit that was in season,” says Cox. According to Cox, the biggest change in modern pie is probably what gives cooks the most anxiety—the crust. “In the early days the crust was WINTER
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merely the vessel used to house the filling but once shortening came on the scene, pie crust became an art and now when asked—what is the best part of the pie—90 percent say it is the crust.” 65
CAPE COD, MASSACHUSETTS
Photo courtesy of the Boston Public Library
Begun in Worcester, Massachusetts in 1924 —the call of “Fresh Pies for Sale” was heard in America’s small town neighborhoods from horse-drawn wagons selling Table Talk pies. The wagons are gone but Table Talk is still a supermarket staple.
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MAINE
Photo: PJ Walter
Pies for a Cause:
One of the largest pie events in New England happens in Rockland, Maine for the
13th Annual Pies on Parade Tour
Dubbed “Pie Town USA� by the Food Network, Rockland, Maine goes pie-crazy on Sunday, January 29 from 1:00 pm to 4:00 pm with pie related events happening at over 40 businesses. Of course pies are the order of the day from Apple to Key Lime and onward. Bring an appetite. WINTER
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MAINE Photos: Carol Latta
Camden’s National Toboggan Race is just one of many winter events happening in the Penobscot Bay area.
CAMDEN’S SNOW BOWL U.S. National Toboggan Championships FRIDAY–SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 10–12, 2017
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Costumes play a huge part in the fun of the toboggan races.
ince this is the ONLY toboggan championship race the title is somewhat tongue-in-cheek, but Camden’s Parks and Recreation spokesman Landon Fake says in spite of the fun with the “national” title the competitors take the races very seriously. “These people are hard-core racers who work on their toboggans for months in an effort to shave one millionth of a second off their time and they draw a serious crowd of thousands to Camden.”
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Photos courtesy of the U.S. Ski and Snowboard Association
Vermont’s KILLINGTON takes the world stage
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t was a double win for the Green Mountain State when, the for the first time in decades, the World Cup Ski championships were held at the Killington Resort and the winner of the World Cup slalom was local favorite Mikaela Shiffrin. Proud of their moniker as Beast of the East, one of the largest ski resorts in New England offers a variety of trails for snow bunnies as well as the pros. Centrally located from your Cape Air arrival in Rutland, Vermont or Lebanon, New Hampshire, you will find no shortage of cozy inns to rest your ski weary bones at the end of the day.
Mikaela Shiffrin is the world cup winner. WINTER
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VERMONT Photos courtesy of Okemo Mountain Resort
OKEMO MOUNTAIN RESORT—LUDLOW, VERMONT
Home to the longest superpipe in the east, Okemo is ideal for newbies and seasoned boarders and skiers with a variety of things to do for the View’s favorite part of a ski vacation—the Après–ski. 72
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VERMONT
Around the Corner & Around the World
READING • Stunning home on 146+/-acres that has the potential for a family compound/retreat. Three levels of luxurious living. Chef’s kitchen and guest suite with two bedrooms & sitting area. Easy access to GMHA, skiing and golf. $1,800,000.
READING • Reading Farms is one of the finest estates in VT. Lovingly cared for by the same family for close to 100 years, the estate consists of the main house, guesthouse, entertainment barn & caretaker’s apartment. 234.68+/-Acres $11,250,000.
WOODSTOCK • Arts & Crafts Shingle Style home set on 182+ acres with a south facing plateau sheltered by stone cliffs with sweeping views. Exceptional opportunity for a residence, corporate retreat or family compound. $3,275,000.
Willamson-Group.com • 802.457.2000 Successfully Selling Real Estate For Over 40 Years 24 Elm • Woodstock VT • Each Office is Independently Owned and Operated
Cape Air’s Art in Flight Cape Air’s Cessna 402s by famed airbrush artist Jürek
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Photos: ©Mark Kurtz Photography
ONE WITH WINTER IN SARANAC LAKE The Oldest Winter Carnival in the Northeast
FEBRUARY 3–12
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ith this winter’s theme of Adirondack Wildlife, you can expect to find no shortage of moose, bear, deer, fox, otters, loons and other North Country critters brought to life in ice sculptures around the town of Saranac Lake. When it comes to embracing the season, nobody does it better than the hundreds of volunteers responsible for the winter spectacle, centered by a massive Ice Palace. The ten-day celebration is pretty much nonstop action featuring concerts and a massive and somewhat raucous parade, all culminating with a mega-fireworks display against the backdrop of the mighty Adirondacks.
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THE WORLD SNOWSHOE CHAMPIONSHIPS February 24-25, 2017 • Saranac Lake
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aranac Lake has the honor of hosting an international gathering of snowshoe racers which, for the first time ever, happens in the United States. “We are all excited to welcome an international group of showshoe competitors to our hometown,” says Johnny Muldowney, the Executive Director of the Saranac Lake Area Chamber of Commerce. “I also want to shine a light on our showcase event in February, the annual Winter Carnival which is the essence of who we are and how we live our lives in Saranac Lake. The Chamber is happy to partner with the Winter Carnival committee, the village, the townships, and all of our friends that visit Saranac Lake. We are proud of our hometown and look forward to meeting this year’s snowshoe racers.”
Photo: Nancy Bauer
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THE ADIRONDACKS, NEW YORK
Racing in Québec, Canada
THE ADIRONDACKS, NEW YORK
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NEWS & VIEWS Photo: Earl Brechlin, Editor, Mount Desert Islander, Bar Harbor
Bar Harbor’s Adam Babbitt launches the Cape Air greeting on the first leg of Coles’ 5,000 mile journey back to Pearl Harbor. Photo: Ann Murphy
Photo: Steve Simonsen
A Bird’s Eye View shout out to Cape Air Captain Dieter Becker honored with the prestigious Tommy Star Award for outstanding customer service from the United States Virgin Islands Hotel and Tourism Association. Anyone who has enjoyed the pleasure of flying with this St. Croix resident readily understands why he is so deserving of this award. For Boston Station Manager Bob Meehan (Uncle Sam) it was a call to Boston Costume that got things going at Logan Airport. “I come from a military family and wanted to honor Mr. Coles in a big way,” says Meehan. “It was truly amazing how so many folks came together including Spinelli’s Bakery and dozens of folks here at Logan Airport. Mr. Coles was truly gratified by the reception.”
*Make our customers happy and have a good time doing it.
The 75th Pearl Harbor Anniversary dominated the headlines this past December and we add to the world’s outpouring of gratitude to the veterans with a nod of thanks to Cape Air’s team in Bar Harbor, Maine and Boston’s Logan Airport. Retired U.S. Navy seaman Robert Coles, aged 93 from Machias, Maine flew Cape Air enroute to the Pearl Harbor remembrance for what he called, “the final chance to spend time with the others who were there that December morning.” WINTER
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CAPE AIR EVERYWHERE
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Everyone loves a bargain, especially when it comes to airfares. Do not miss the latest and greatest when it come to Cape The best way to hear about special airfares andAir/Nantucket promotions isAirlines to join fare Capesales. Air’sLog on to capeair.com and click on ...check out details at capeair.com WINTER
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INDEX
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eet the folks who make the Bird’s Eye View possible. They are also key to you having the most awesome vacation ever! Make these folks your first stop when visiting one of our Cape Air destinations. From where to stay, play and eat, they have the answers. The entire team sends special thanks to you, our passengers, and our Cape Air Bird’s Eye View family of advertisers for their loyalty and support. Sincerely, Publisher Dan Wolf, Chuck, Nancy, Kim, Laurie, Rosemary, Bobbi, Jim and Michelle
CARIBBEAN:
Dolphin Discovery ....................... 37
Harborview Nantucket................. 40
THE U.S. VIRGIN ISLANDS ST. CROIX
Fort Burt Hotel & Marina ............. 32
Island Properties Real Estate ........ 17
Inter Island Boat Sevices .............. 37
J. Pepper Frazier Real Estate......... 45
Quito’s Gazebo............................ 32
Luxruy Nantucket Rentals ............ 47
Sol Y Sombra Villa ....................... 37
Maury People Sotheby’s Realty.... 41
Speedy’s Ferry ............................. 35
Michael Kane Lightship Baskets ........................................ 20
BOSTON
Nantucket Inns ................................ 47
Arawak Bay Inn at Salt River ........ 10 The Buccaneer ............................. 15 Cane Bay Dive Shop .................... 10 Palms at Pelican Cove ....................... 2 RE/MAX Real Estate St. Croix ......... 10
Boston Harbor Hotel ....................... 57
ST. JOHN 340 Real Estate Co. ..................... 22
CAPE COD
Gallows Point Resort.................... 16
Centerville Pie Co. ........................... 63
Islandia Real Estate ...................... 22
Chatham Sign Shop......................... 63
La Tapa Restaurant ...................... 22 Miss Lucy’s Bar & Restaurant ....... 22
MAINE
Ocean Three Six Two Restaurant .... 16
FIORE Olive Oils & Vinegars........ 69
Seaview Vacation Homes ............. 19
The Island Inn Monhegan ............ 69
Wish Upon A Star Charters .......... 21
Lisa Hall Jewelry .......................... 69
ST. THOMAS
Red Sky Restaurant...................... 69
Calypso Realty ............................. 27 Coki Dive Center ......................... 25 Dohm’s Water Taxi ...................... 25 Emerald Beach Resort .................. 25 Miller Manor Guest House........... 27
VIEQUES
MARTHA’S VINEYARD Breakwater Real Estate ................ 55 Harbor View Hotel....................... 56 Hob Knob .................................... 55 Kelley House................................ 56
Nantucket Stock .............................. 40 Nantucket Windmill Auto Rental.......................................... 47 Nobby Clothes Shop .................... 49
NEW HAMPSHIRE Martha Diebold Real Estate ......... 70
NEW YORK Guide Boat Realty ........................ 78 Hotel Saranac .............................. 76 Paul Smith’s College .................... 78
PROVINCETOWN Crown & Anchor ............................. 58 Provincetown Tourism Board........... 58 The Red Inn ................................. 58
Black Beard Sports ....................... 31
Martha’s Vineyard Buyer Agents........................... 55
Vieques Flowers & Gifts ............... 30
Martha’s Vineyard Museum ......... 56
The Arlington Inn ............................ 74
THE BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS
NANTUCKET
Sugar & Spice .................................. 73
Antilles HelicopterServices ........... 35
Fareground & Pudley’s Pub .......... 40
Blue Water Divers ........................ 32
Greydon House ........................... 84
BVI Tourism Board ......................... 3
Hawthorn House ......................... 40
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VERMONT Hill Farm Inn .................................... 74 Williamson Group Sotheby’s Realty. ..................... 73 Windsor Mansion Inn .................. 74
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The Caribbean
JOI N A WIN N IN G T EA M
A high-energy sales associate wanted in the Caribbean for a successful award winning airline magazine. All applicants must have ad sales experience and be able to work well independently. We offer a generous commission and flight benefits.
Please contact Michelle Haynes at 508.498.3440 — Michelle.Haynes@capeair.com
GREYDON HOUSE RESTAURANT, GUEST ROOMS, BAR & LOUNGE 17 BROAD STREET at FEDERAL | NANTUCKET, MA | 508.228.2468 | GREYDONHOUSE.COM