Belgrade Insight, No. 28

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NEWS NEWS

Friday • June 13 • 2008

9 ISSN 1820-8339

771820 833000

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Issue 1 / Friday, June 13, 2008 Weekly Issue No. 28,No. Friday, Mar. 27 - Thursday, Apr. 02, 2009

Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists

While younger Socialists support joining a new, pro-EU government, old Milosevic loyalists threaten revolt over the prospect.

EDITOR’S WORD POLITICS

Political Predictability

A political storm has erupted following the Maldives’ recognition of Kosovo.

By Mark R. Pullen

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party over which way to turn.

“The situation in the party seems extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining laggards that we need to move out of Milosevic’s shadow,” one Socialist Party official complained.

“Dacic will eventually side with Many of us who have experiBELGRADE Tadic in a bid to guide his party into enced numerous Serbian elections the European mainstream, but much The rateadministration ourselves as and pundits when animal wel-it charities at odds over what reto of the membership and many offi- fare comes to are predicting election do about the city’s stray dogs. cials may oppose that move.” sults and post-election moves.

Nikolic agreed: “The question is We feel in-the-knowPage because 4 will the party split or will the ‘oldour experience of elections in Sertimers’ back down,” he noted. bia hasOUT shown that (a.) no single &usABOUT Fearing they might not cross the party or coalition will ever gain the 5-per-cent threshold to enter parlia- We majority to form a governtake arequired trip to Transylvania and ment, the Socialists teamed up with follow the of Hungarment, in and (b.)footsteps political negotiations Hunyadi. the Association of Pensioners and the ian willKing, neverMatthias be quickly concluded.

United Serbia Party, led by businessEven when the Democrats man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. achieved their surprising result at Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkobalast month’s general election, it bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing quickly became clear that the rePhoto by Tanja Valic for a deal with the Democrats. sult was actually more-or-less the Police officers guardIvica the entrance to the Zemun assembly building following the ousting of the Radical-led administration and the appointment of a temporary The municipal reportedgovernment. price is the post of same as every other election result Socialist leader Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker deputy PM, with a brief in charge of in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. security for the Socialist leader. faces extinction unless it changes.

This is likely to continue as long to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan

By Rade Maroevic in Belgrade In addition, the Socialists are barHowever, a strong current also as Serbia’s politicians form new Milosevic, and reformists who want gaining for other ministries, includflows in the opposite direction, led political parties every time they the party to become a modern Euroense negotiations on a new govPage party 9 ing capital investments, Kosovo and by party veterans enraged by the disagree with their current pean social democrat organisation. ernment have divided the ranks The rift between the Radicals and their former colleagues, now in the Progressive Party, has education, Belgrade media reported. prospect of a deal with Tadic. leader (thereMUSIC are currently 342 regAfter eight years of stagnation, of the Socialist Party, which holds led to accusation the and couter-accusation, verbal abuse, hair-pulling andTadic fist-fights. has denied talk of horseMihajlo Markovic, a founder of istered political parties in Serbia).

Socialists returned to centre stage the balance of power between the music corespondent trading with the Socialists, maintain- Our Drawn-out the party, recently warned of a crisis negotiationspreviews are also after winning 20 of the 250 seats in main blocs and has yet to announce

by Il Divo and December, thepro-European middle of deputies He stormed after the party surrounded president of to forthcoming ing that ministriesthewould go only ifInDacic opts forinthe the norm. concerts One Belgrade-based parliament in theout May 11 elections. which side they will support.

Partibrejkers. parliamentary Nikolic Seselj, on in a bloc, Belgrade assembly, Aleksandar By “It Jovana committed to working for the abandoning session, the Socialists’ “nat- the those Ambassador recently told me he WithVojislav the pro-European andtrial nationlooksGligorijevic as if the Socialists will leader, in Belgrade The Hague, ordered Radical depu- pulled the hair of Radical deputy Antic, turned off his microphone 11 government’s “strategic goal”. ural” ideological partners. was also alarmed by Page the distinct alist inblocs almost evenly matched, move towards a government led by ties parliament to vote down Srboljub Zivanovic, an incident, and poured soft drinks and water on Markovic, a prominent supporter him. At the same time, Dacic seems relack of urgency among Serbian the Socialists have the finaland say Nikolic the Democrats,” political analyst Mi- ratification said, had been provoked of now a Stabilisation GOING OUT is at a Zivanovic insulted and is In Agreement, recent days,offthe battle haswith luctant to call negotiations arly inof thethe morning on March of Milosevic during the him 1990s, politicians.

“The country on the fate of the country.SAA, with because lan Nikolic, independent Cen- Association th his family. the EU, having previously agreed to shifted from parliament and the 17 , with police assistance, the nationalists. seen as representative of the “oldstandstill I don’t understand Nikolic believes the Socialists, led tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such This week and we visit some of BelZivanovic also in Belgrade theDacic, deal. will come over to assembly to the Zemun asthemight new provoke commissioners for support grade’s long-established kafanas, and “If we don’t reach an agreement timers” in thewas party whoinvolved want to stay their logic.

If they are so eager to

by Ivica a move deeper diviNikolic’s departure split the Rad- an incident on February 13th, when sembly, after representatives of the Zemun - appointed after Progressive check out the scene. the EU and enwith the DSS and Radicals, the partrue to the former regime’s policies, progress towards Tadic, if only out of a pragmatic desions and even split the party.” deputies split from the ruling Radi- icals in two: those who supported he punched Progressive deputy, temporary authority appointed by leadership decide on future evenBecic, thoughseveral these almost courage investors, how come they sire to ensure survival. negotiations held him, and thosetheir whopolitical remained loyal Igor Belgrade city will government twice times, ruined leavingthe the ty cal Simultaneous party, leaving the municipality’s Nikolic joined by 17 Becic attempted to enter the premises, with afor broken steps”, Dacic announced, following government in disarray -and finally suc- to Seselj.

Socialists good.nose. go home at 5pm sharp and don’t “The group of was younger Socialists with the pro-European nationalin the newly formed to first be repelled bycountry’s about a new hun-parLast week, Radical MPs inofficials par- onlythe ceeded in have takingdrawn control of the Zesession of Some younger Socialist work weekends?” gatheredMPs around Dacic seems to be ist blocs attention to a Radical Progressive Party.Nikolic said, adding liament Radicalonsupporters. brought bottles over filledthe with mun Wednesday. have voiced frustration con- dredliament Surely the situation is urgent in the majority”, deepadministration. rift inside the Socialists.

It was a major blow to the Radi- an unidentified yellow liquid, threatAlthough the Radicals assert that This victory for the Progressives tinuing impasse within their own enough to warrant a little overtime. that these reformists believe the party This divides “old-timers” loyal Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) comes after a series of increasingly cals, who complained to the admin- ening to pour it over Nikolic and the they lost little when Nikolic and his

Childish Spats Overshadow Politics T

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istrative board of parliament about the legitimacy of these defections, arguing that deputies elected as RadBusiness Insight icals, could not represent another party. But two weeks ago, the board dismissed their complaint.

The decision has since fuelled a conflict betweenare former colleagues, conomists warning that prospicedlonged with fist fights, swearing and uncertainty over Serbia’s mutual accusations. future could scare off investors, lead to higher inflation and jeopardise DINING prosperity OUT for years to come.

“This year has been lost, from the standpoint of economic policy,” says Restoran 27 is exclusive, posh and Stojan Stamenkovic of the Economwell worth a visit, says Trencherman. ics Institute in Belgrade. page 5 acrimonious and occasionally bizarre conflicts in municipal, city and state politics, Tomislav THIS following ISSUE OF Nikolic’s decision to break Belgrade Insight away from the Radicals and form his own party. IS SUPPORTED BY: The conflicts betwen the two nationalist groups began in September 2008, when Nikolic left the Radical Party.

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Costs Mounting

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president of parliament Slavica Dju- fellow Progressives broke away, opinion polls show otherwise. kic Dejanovic.

The Zemun assembly,Matters which had They reveal that the ProgresNeighbourhood become ungovernable after a number sives have surpassed their rivals in of deputies from the Radical Party popularity, gaining the support of changed sides to the Progressives, 19.4 per cent of voters as opposed leaving no party in overall control, to the Radicals’ 13.6, suggesting was dissolved the Belgrade city that almost two-thirds of former hile thebyfootball world watchgovernment on March 5th.atThis es events unfold the proEuro- Radical voters have switched alvoked incident in which Radical pean an Championships in Austria and legiance.

Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing a soccer rebellion, led by fans, SPORT players and former stars who are enraged by whatsoccer they see ascoach corrupt leaders National team Radomir of the country’s football association Antic believes Serbia will qualify for next year’s World Cup. leaders. page 10

Football Rebellion

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W

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Source: www.weather2umbrella.com

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politics

Friday, Mar. 27 - Thursday, Apr. 02, 2009

Bribery Allegations over Maldives Recognition of Kosovo Allegations that a $2 million bribe was given to Maldives officials by a Kosovan politician in exchange for the recognition of Kosovo as an independent state have caused a political storm.

By Krenar Gashi and Vjosa Musliu

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he recognition of Kosovo’s independence by the Maldives has created a furore in this small chain of Indian Ocean islands. After lobbying by Kosovo politicians, the Maldives recognised the country on February 19th.

But just a few weeks on, President Mohamed Nasheed has ordered police and parliament to investigate if government officials were bribed to bring this about.

A parliamentary body in the Maldives, consisting of top officials, will investigate allegations that the government received a $2 million bribe to recognise Kosovo’s independence. The National Security Committee of the parliament will examine the allegations, which were first raised by the opposition Islamic Democratic Party, IDP. The decision to investigate the claims came after a delegation from Serbia, led by Srdja Popovic of the Centre for Applied Nonviolent Action and Strategies, CANVAS, had lobbied both the country’s President, Mohamed Nasheed, and opposition groups to bring about a cancellation of the recognition of Kosovo.

The alleged bribe of $2 million, according to media in the Maldives, was paid by a Kosovo businessman, Behgjet Pacolli.

Pacolli, head of the New Kosova Alliance party, AKR, the first public figure to announce the recognition of Kosovo by the Maldives, has firmly denied the allegation.

“This is speculation made up by the Serbian government,” he said.

Pacolli, who has been publicly promoting himself as a lobbyist for Kosovo’s recognition, especially in Middle Eastern and Central Asian countries, said that he was facing an active counter-lobby from the Serbian side.

“Serbia is lobbying against Kosovo’s recognition in the same countries where I am [working],” Pacolli said.

He noted that a 21-member delegation from Serbia, led by CANVAS, had lobbied Maldives opposition groups to bring about a cancellation of the recognition of Kosovo.

According to Pacolli, the opposition had then pressurised President Mohamed Nasheed into starting an investigation.

Belgrade Insight has obtained independent confirmation that a delegation led by Srdjan Popovic, a former student leader and former official in Serbia’s government, visited the Maldives. Information gleaned from Popovic’s Facebook profile seems to confirm that he was staying in the Maldives.

Popovic admits that he spoke to the Maldives authorities regarding Kosovo’s recognition.

“If bringing up facts in favour of the country you love is called lobbying, then I admit that I have lobbied,” Popovic told the Serbian daily Politika.

Pacolli says the Serbian lobby, working to prevent further diplomatic recognition of Kosovo, is very active. However he denies that he would bribe officials to win recognition from Asian countries.

Meanwhile, the Maldives’ foreign minister, Ahmed Shaheed, has also rejected the allegations of bribe-taking.

Photos by www.rtv21.tv, FoNet

The two men at the centre of the storm. Srdja Popovic (right) claims that his lobbying over the recognition of Kosovo was motivated purely by patriotism. Behgjet Pacolli a Kosovan Polititian and businessman denies any suggestion that cash changed hands in an effort to get the Maldives government to recognise Kosovo.

In an interview given to online journal, Miadhu.com, Shaheed said the government believed that it was essential for a 100 per cent Islamic country like the Maldives to recognise the independence of Kosovo.

“We held discussions with neighbouring countries, with European countries, with Islamic countries and with the US on the issue… and had discussions with Kosovo opposition parties as well as the Kosovo government,” Shaheed said.

Just after the bribery allegations

were raised, the US Secretary of State, Hillary Clinton, rushed to thank the Maldives for the recognition.

Clinton said the government’s decision greatly contributed to efforts to promote a stable and prosperous future for Kosovo and the Western Balkans.

Kosovo’s Foreign Ministry refused to comment further on the issue.

Albana Beqiri, an adviser to the Foreign Minister, Skender Hyseni,

said that the ministry wanted to concentrate on its job. “We don’t deal with such speculation”, Beqiri told Belgrade Insight.

Pacolli’s party, AKR, says the allegations were coming from the Serbian media and Albin Kurti, leader of the opposition Vetevendosje movement, more or less agrees.

“Serbia wants to say that Kosovo’s recognition is a matter of business and trade rather than a result of our right to self-determination,” he said.

Weekly Press Roundup VECERNJE NOVOSTI - The special prosecutor for organised crime ordered the police to investigate property acquired by several people, including Milorad Ulemek Legija, who was convicted of the murder of Serbian Prime Minister Zoran Djindjic and several other crimes.

POLITIKA - The final route of the south stream gas pipeline will not be known until September. According to Gasprom, a study of the project is in progress.

BLIC - The Serbian Radical Party (SRP) announced that they are organising a meeting dedicated to

their leader Vojislav Seselj on the sixth anniversary of his confinement in the Hague. Seselj ordered his Party collegues not to sing songs about former members of the SRP, Tomislav Nikolic, Maja Gojkovic and Aleksandar Vucic.

DANAS - Police arrested nine people on the Serbian-Croatian border, suspected of illegal trade in narcotics. Police confiscated 60 kilograms of skunk, a strong version of marijuana, near the border with Croatia, and 32 kilograms in the house of the driver of the truck in which the drugs were found.

BLIC - Montenegro achieved more progress in the European integration process than Serbia. Brussels announced that EU members would consider Montenegro’s application for candidateship of the EU. VECERNJE NOVOSTI - Serbian citizens spend more than half of their wages on essential items, food, transport, housing and utilities. Food and non-alcoholic beverages account for

about 41 percent of their income.

GLAS JAVNOSTI - Five years since anti-Serb riots in Kosovo on March 17 2004, which resulted in the deaths of eight people and the destruction of 561 houses, no one has been arrested or punished for the crimes.

DANAS - The International Monetary Fund mission met Serbian Prime Minister, Mirko Cvetkovic, and began negotiations. The Prime Minister said that the Serbian programme for negotiation is based on the idea of expanding the budget deficit and decreasing public spending.

POLITIKA - Two members of the Serbian Progressive Party accused the writers of the film “Saint George kills the dragon” of falsification of Serbian history. Writer Dusan Kovacevic and director Srdjan Dragojevic responded that these accusations were a compliment to their film.

VECERNJE NOVOSTI - Italian Minister of foreign affairs, Franco

Frattini thinks that Serbia has already been waiting too long for the liberation of the EU visa regime. Together with his Slovenian colleague, Samuel Zbogar, he wrote to the EU, suggesting that the Western Balkans stay high on its list of priorities for this year.

KURIR - War veterans who protested following the arrest of several of their colleagues on suspicion of war crimes, claim that they believe that psychological support groups founded by some Serbian NGOs were only a mask for those who were investigating war crimes and collecting evidence for the International Court in the Hague.

BORBA - Following the resignation of the directors of two of the most important cultural institutions in Serbia, the National Theatre and the Belgrade Philharmonic, last week, they were joined this week by members of the National Museum’s Board.

Several prominent artists demanded that the minister of culture, Nebojsa Bradic, resign too, unless he is able to solve the ongoing problems..

politics

Friday, Mar. 27 - Thursday, Apr. 02, 2009

North - South Divide

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Profile of the Week Jovan Krkobabic

The huge wealth gap between Serbia’s prosperous north and poor south highlights the unequal pace of regional development, which could strain national unity.

By Ian Bancroft

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ravelling through the Presevo Valley of southern Serbia during winter reveals a rugged, isolated territory, where scrapped metal and seemingly abandoned factories blend into barren fields.

These are hallmarks of the economic underdevelopment that is a key impediment to remedying a region predominantly populated by ethnic Albanians and which lives in the long shadow of Kosovo.

Almost eight years after a settlement was reached with the Liberation Army of Presevo, Medvedja and Bujanovac, UCPMB, ending a 17-month armed insurgency, ethnic tensions continue to revolve around decentralisation and minority rights.

These questions are complicated by an abject economic environment.

The stark comparison that can be drawn with the Province of Vojvodina, in the north of Serbia, epitomises the socio-economic and political challenges facing Serbia as the global financial crisis gradually erodes previous optimism.

Chronic Unemployment Despite having received over €64 million in infrastructural investments from the Serbian government since 2001, with international donors contributing a similar amount, the southern municipalities of Bujanovac, Presevo and Medvedja suffer from chronic unemployment. Average incomes are around a third of the national average.

Poverty is conspicuous. Although both Serbian and Albanian communities share this affliction, it tends to magnify the under-representation of ethnic Albanians in public institutions. As donor support diminishes and as remittances from workers abroad fall, the state-level co-ordination body tasked with overseeing the region’s transformation has made economic development a priority.

There are some grounds for optimism. The expected completion of Serbia’s section of Corridor Ten in 2010, linking Belgrade to Thessaloniki in Greece, has generated new interest among investors. As Shaip Kamberi, mayor of Bujanovac, emphasises, “a number of companies have expressed an interest in pur-

Photo courtesy of Vranjske

Presevo has been seriously affected by the loss of cross-border trade with Kosovo and Macedonia.

chasing land bordering the Corridor, which, [combined] with the construction of a new customs zone at the border crossing with Macedonia in the neighbouring municipality of Presevo, will re-connect the region with its neighbours”.

According to Kamberi, the prime markets for local businesses are to be found not in Serbia but in neighbouring Bulgaria, Macedonia, as well as Kosovo.

Access to this latter market, however, has been inhibited by Pristina’s declaration of independence in February 2008, which has created additional obstacles. New complexities with respect to customs arrangements on the boundary between Serbia and Kosovo, allied with concerns about security and restrictions on the freedom of movement, have strangled trade. This vacuum, increasingly filled by the “grey economy”, underlines the imperative to re-establish economic links with Kosovo.

Declining Cross-Border Trade The hardening of Kosovo’s de facto partition, meanwhile, has ramifications for the situation in the Presevo Valley, often referred to locally as “East Kosovo”.

Councillors from the municipalities of Presevo, Bujanovac and Medvedja previously adopted a joint platform that included a commitment to “unify the Presevo Valley with Kosovo in case of... [any] possible changes to [Kosovo’s] borders”.

Jonuz Musliu, president of the municipal assembly of Bujanovac and a former guerilla leader, has vowed that demands for greater autonomy will accompany any moves to formally partition Kosovo.

The region remains inextricably linked to Kosovo. The arrest in mid-December of ten former Kosovo Liberation Army KLA soldiers on charges of war crimes, and the subsequent protests in Presevo, demonstrated that it remains vulnerable to inter-ethnic mistrust and tension.

Despite the progress made in establishing multi-ethnic local governments, forming joint ethnic Albanian-Serbian police patrols and curbing human rights abuses, such instability deters potential investors and progress.

Ethnic Albanian demands for greater autonomy have additional motivations, stemming from inadequate communication with Belgrade.

A Ministry of Education decision, later retracted, to refuse recognition of university diplomas from the University of Pristina, from where a large number of the region’s students graduate, caused considerable discontent. Riza Halimi, Serbia’s sole Albanian member of parliament, termed it “discriminatory”.

The privatisation of sociallyowned enterprises provides another source of contention. Doubts have been expressed about the neutrality and transparency of the process, including allegations of an inherent bias against Albanian businessmen.

Though the recent sale of the Heba bottled water plant in Bujanovac for

€2.5 million is a success story, mayor Kamberi doubts his municipality will ultimately receive the full amount to which it is legally entitled.

In stark contrast, the Province of Vojvodina enjoys an abundance of lush, fertile arable land and an active food processing industry. Vojvodina’ six official languages reflect its distinctive multi-ethnic character.

With advanced metal, chemical, electrical and oil industries, the province has enjoyed strong economic growth in recent years, particularly in the municipalities of Zrenjanin and Indija.

Despite such favourable economic circumstances, however, many seek a return to the more wide-ranging autonomy enjoyed in the Tito era.

Autonomy Vojvodina’s decentralisation demands spring from a desire to ensure sufficient fiscal autonomy from Belgrade so as to guarantee that the province does not end up subsidising underdeveloped parts of Serbia.

The new Vojvodina Statute, due to be ratified soon, has prompted debate. Though the Serbian constitution stipulates that Vojvodina is entitled to receive 7 per cent of the state budget, a negative economic outlook may fuel demands for the province to enjoy a somewhat larger share. As Ivana Dulic Markovic, vice-president of the Executive Council of Vojvodina and a member of the reformist G17 Plus party, reflects: “Citizens of Vojvodina have made significant economic sacrifices in order to build a modern economic structure, and such decisions can only be taken with decentralisation at work”.

She says that once the Milosevic regime withdrew Vojvodina’s autonomy, “the process of povertyequalisation started, leading to a commonly shared economic disaster, through which Vojvodina, as a more developed part, suffered more”.

Whilst the EU’s commitment to regionalism stands to benefit the province, it remains to be seen whether greater access to regional funding will satisfy demands for broader autonomy.

The flagrant disparity between the Presevo Valley in southern Serbia and Vojvodina in the north highlight the detrimental ramifications of unequal development throughout Serbia.

With the issue of territorial organisation remaining politically sensitive in light of Kosovo’s declaration of independence, Serbia faces the challenge of consolidating its democratic and institutional structures, whilst contending with a burgeoning sense of identity in parts of the country.

How Serbia contends with these internal tensions will have implications for the country as it pursues a path to Europe, and to a Union that fosters and values both subsidiarity and devolution.

Ian Bancroft is the co-founder of TransConflict, an organization undertaking conflict transformation projects and research throughout the Western Balkans

Pension Pusher

By Slobodan Georgijev Krkobabic shows that in politics, a single vote can sometimes shape policies that affect millions.

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ovan Krkobabic, the deputy prime minister for welfare issues, whose surname can be translated as “granny eater” was behind a pension increase for about a million Serbs, a policy which has driven the national government into a deficit that has been a key issue discussed at an IMF conference in Belgrade this week.

Krkobabic, 79, leader of the Party of United Pensioners of Serbia, won his appointment as deputy prime minister in charge of welfare issues last year because of the power his party’s five members of Parliament hold as a key part of the ruling coalition.

Krkobabic’s party is the only one of all the ruling parties that so far has kept its election promise, to increase pensions. The 2009 national budget includes an increase of 10 per cent. No one would have any problem with it, except that the pension increase, compounded by the international financial crisis, drove the national budget into deficit. To wield such power from such a minority position is surely the politics of holding the tiger by the tail.

Krkobabic has said that “if the price of joining the EU is to bring a million pensioners to the brink of poverty, then we don’t need the EU.” He has been active in politics since the era of the former Yugoslavia, when he headed several government agencies that dealt with pensioners’ issues. In the 1990s, he was a member of Slobodan Milosevic’s Socialists, but never attained high rank.

He entered the Serbian parliament on his third attempt ‘through the big door’: walking straight into a ministerial role.

About his colourful surname, he has a prosaic explanation. “We used to live near Skradin, on the river Krka, in today’s Croatia.”

Krkobabic says. “The Babic family lived there, and when they were carrying out a census, a symbiosis of two words was made.”

Krkobabic is known as a sharp dresser, and says he always liked it that way. “Father sent me to sell the sheep and bring home the money, but I bought myself a suit.”

He owes his vitality to his family, he says. He has two married sons, one of whom is the speaker of the Belgrade City Assembly, and four grandchildren. Of his wife Marija, he says simply: “She is number one.”

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belgrade chronicle

Friday, Mar. 27 - Thursday, Apr. 02, 2009

Belgrade’s Doggy Dilemma With the authorities and animal welfare charities at odds over a solution, one thing they all agree on is that there are too many strays roaming the streets of the city.

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ogs. Man’s best friend, lapdog or watchdog, one thing that most people in Belgrade will agree is that there are too many of them roaming the streets of Belgrade. Hiding away in the warmth of a pile of rubbish, sunning themselves on the streets, bedding down in every doorway you pass, or menacing anything that moves, it seems impossible to get away from them. The city claims it has little money to deal with the problem, charities say that they are overwhelmed and that anyway, the authorities would only deal with them in an inhumane way and meanwhile the population continues to grow, seemingly unchecked.

A quick stroll down many a residential street in Belgrade will bring you into contact with at least one stray dog and often a pack. And whilst usually they’re a benign presence, from time to time, especially in the winter, when they’re hungry or when there are pregnant or suckling mothers in the group, they can be a danger to children, cyclists and pet owners out walking their dogs.

In 2006 and 2007, the city government’s plans to address the problem included significant funds for a ‘clear the streets’ policy which included the capture and spaying or destruction of stray dogs, a public education programme and the provision of food for animal shelters but all, it seems, to little effect. “Nothing has changed since World War II” says Zlata Korjenic of Help Animals, a charity. “Millions of animals have been killed, but the problem still remains.”

Tensions are running high in the animal welfare community and there are clear differences on poli-

cies amongst some of the key groups, with some advocating a ‘no kill’ policy, others focusing on an education policy and others still who feel that shelters could be the answer. The official approach was, until the end of 2008, one of both spaying and euthanasia, but now it seems that city funds are much reduced and little is happening on the ground.

Some advocate a “catch, spay and release policy” as a humane way to reduce the population of strays but with the average life of a stray on the streets of Belgrade around three and a half years, according to Vladimir Terzin, a senior official at the City’s Ministry of Municipal Affairs, this policy is unlikely to have much of an immediate impact. Some experts suggest that it could be many years before such a policy had an appreciable effect and then only if new unspayed animals were not released, and many question the wisdom of allowing dogs to continue to roam the streets.

Across much of western Europe, stray dogs are picked up, held for a short period of time in case their owner should come forward, before being re-homed or destroyed. London’s Battersea Dogs and Cats Home, for example, took in more than 8,000 animals in 2007, re-homing more than 2,000 of them, but funds are just not available for such an operation in Belgrade.

In 2006 and 2007, the City Government allocated 72 million dinars (€746,000) to the Belgrade Veterinary Station, operated by the State Veterinary Organisation, for a ‘clear the streets’ policy, which advocated both the spaying and euthanasia of stray dogs and Terzin

As many as 5,000 stray dogs roam the streets of Belgrade, and whilst they are often a benign presence, many people consider them a nuisance.

claims that more than 3,000 dogs have been spayed. “This year, the city will provide 16.5 million dinars (€171,000) to resolve the issue”, Terzin said. “We also hope to build two more shelters for stray dogs,” he added. Reacting to criticism from some quarters about the methods employed at Belgrade’s Veterinary Station, Terzin said that the Faculty of Veterinary Science would work with the Station in the implementation of their programme. He also stated that “euthanasia is performed at OVCA (the city’s dog shelter) by experts according to precise criteria.”

The city also gave 2 million dinars (€21,000) to SOS, an animal welfare charity for the spaying of cats, and provided food for the Help Animals

charity to sustain their shelter for dogs and cats.

ORCA, led by Elvir Burazerovic and perhaps the most well known animal charity in Serbia, which collaborates with other national and international animal welfare charities such as Britain’s RSPCA and the WSPCA, received 17 million dinars (€176,000), for an education campaign, working closely with schools and community groups.

However cooperation between the three charities, formerly part of an umbrella group, the Alliance of Belgrade’s Animal Protection Societies, has broken down amid accusations that ORCA funds were wasted on large salaries and over ORCA’s alleged cooperation with the OVCA dog shelter where Help Animals

President, Zlata Korjenic, claims animals are mistreated. “Euthanasia is performed by unqualified people and animals die in terrible pain,” she said.

So, despite significant investment by the city in recent years, the problem remains and with the charities at loggerheads over the correct approach, what is the solution?

Terzin estimates that there are as many as 5,000 strays in Belgrade and although he doesn’t believe that the problem will be solved overnight, he thinks that the city’s approach, which brings together tagging, vaccination, shelters and euthanasia is fundamentally sound.

Continued on page 5

belgrade chronicle

Friday, Mar. 27 - Thursday, Apr. 02, 2009

Continued from page 4 Korjenic, however, claims that efforts so far have been ineffective.

Along with development of animal shelters for strays, she advocates a policy of spaying all pet cats and dogs. As she says, it is those dogs that go on to become tomorrow’s strays. “Pregnant female dogs are not coming to my shelter to leave their puppies. People are responsible for that, because they don’t know what to do with their dogs’ puppies.”

Much like the experts, the public are also split on what to do about this issue.

“These animals are not on the street because they decided to be.

The solution is raising the awareness

of citizens and large fines for those who cast the dogs onto the street. I am sure that that the problem will be solved in a few years,” said Andrea Jojic, 27.

However, Prvoslav Karanovic, 35, told us “at the moment it is more important to renovate children hospitals, rather then spending huge amounts of money on spaying dogs.”

Wherever one lives, it seems, passions always run high on animal welfare issues and Belgrade is no exception, and the widely differing views amongst city institutions and competing animal welfare organisations are unlikely to assist in the development of a concrete solution.

Animal Lover Saves Strays

ple who do. But there are also a lot of people who just don’t care about animals,” she says. “A lot of people in Serbia think animals are things that don’t have emotions. Basically they’re just a commodity.”

Some adoptions went better than others. A friend found a sheep dog whose injured leg had to be amputated. The friend found it a home but had to agree to pay all the dog’s expenses. Golubovic once saved a small dog, which a co-worker took to American cousins with a big yard, “like a fairytale story.”

Recently she found a pair of black dogs. They don’t have a great story. She just feared that they’d be poisoned, so she took them off the street. A friend with a yard is holding them while she’s trying to place them. “They’re really cute,” she says.

By Paul Bergen

S

ibina Golubovic’s neighborhood, Medakovic 3, like many in Belgrade, is plagued with stray dogs.

The problem is bad enough that, recently, someone poisoned several neighborhood dogs. Several purebred pets died, along with the strays.

Concerned, several years ago Golubovic started feeding some of the neighborhood dogs. Then she saved a dog that had recently delivered puppies. She estimates that since then she’s taken about 10 dogs off the streets, cleaned them up and advertised for new homes.

“I love animals and I take care of animals and connect with other peo-

If you are interested in adopting one of the dogs, call Sibina Golubovic at 065 3067480.

Belgrade Diary

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or a Kosovar, traveling to Belgrade is a challenge in more than one way. The trip from Pristina to the capital of Serbia is both thrilling and very “balkanski”, as we use to say when describing anything that fits into the Balkan category.

As soon we crossed the border with Serbia, the administrative border, as it is called in Serbia, a police officer ran to ask me where I was heading and why. After finishing with the border procedure, he described his concern about how things had changed in a very bad way for him and his compatriots since they left Kosovo in 1999.

Several hours later, Belgrade welcomed me with its charming post-Socialist architecture, its beautiful urban planning and well-ordered traffic, all non-existent in the

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ive years since it was burned in anti-Muslim demonstrations, the 16th century Bayrakli Mosque in Belgrade is still not fully repaired, whilst in Pristina, the government condemned the attacks that inspired the destruction.

The 2004 protest in Belgrade followed attacks by ethnic Albanians on Serb enclaves in Kosovo which left hundreds of Serbs homeless. Bayrakli mosque was heavily damaged by youths who broke all its windows and furniture before setting it on fire.

Condemning the March 2004 Albanian attacks upon Serb enclaves, Kosovo’s Minister of Culture, Valton Beqiri said they would go down as “one of the darkest episodes” of the country’s recent history, and would never be repeated. The minister noted that Kosovo’s government has invested €5.5 million since 2004 to reconstruct the Orthodox cultural heritage objects that were burnt down during the attacks, in which 19 people were killed and several hundred houses destroyed.

Pristina’s statement came after the Serbian government called on The Bayrakli Mosque the UN Mission to Kosovo and the EU Rule of Law Mission to ensure foreign donations, the Islamic comjustice, noting that the culprits of the munity in Belgrade has managed to March 2004 violence have not been rebuild part of the library, several charged. In relation to the destruction classrooms and a dormitory for stuof Bayrakli mosque, a prosecutor in dents.

Belgrade has indicted one person, Bayrakli mosque was built around Stefan Gajic from Belgrade. Police 1575, and is the only remaining are still investigating 22 other cases. mosque in Belgrade from the 273 that Meanwhile, the several million existed during the Ottoman Empire’s dinars reportedly given by Serbia’s rule in Serbia. During the 12 year government for reconstruction of Austrian occupation of Serbia in the Bayrakli mosque have not been 18th century, it was converted into a enough to complete its renovation, Roman Catholic church, but was rewith only the exterior of the building turned to its original function when fully repaired. However, thanks to the Ottomans re-took Belgrade.

Similar, Yet Worlds Apart

capital of Kosovo.

By Vjosa Musliu

Five Years On, Mosque Awaits Final Repairs

While attending a student conference and being surrounded by young people, the whole issue of ethnicity, Kosovo, and the perennial conflict proved no barrier to communication, getting along, going out to clubs nor to sightseeing in Belgrade.

Indeed, the more I travel to former Yugoslav countries, the more I understand that we are so much alike in the way we live, love, hate, and want to leave the past behind us.

So often, when we looked at one another as human beings, we left our ethnic identity aside. However, as soon as one of us solemnly mentioned the word “Kosovo”, this whole mosaic of happy, diverse youth disintegrated.

Among a large part of my Serbian counterparts, the discovery of my ethnicity and even my ID (Kosovo/UNMIK) caused a tectonic shift. “Kosovo is Serbia” was the conclusion of every debate we held.

Most were angry that Pristina had named its streets after Bill Clinton, Madeline Albright and other American “aggressors” who had bombed them during 1999. “I just cannot stand that you glorify bombers and aggressors,” one Serbian girl told me. Other, more radical voices,

insisted Kosovo was an artificial entity created by the US and co. They called us “Amerikanski Piuni”, or American Pawns.

Obviously, others minded their own business and didn’t get into these negotiations. Off the record, this was the group willing to get along with Albanians in “more than one way”!

When taxi drivers asked me about my nationality (the most important question in the Balkans), I would declare I was from Poland, owing to my Polish-looking blonde hair. My poor Serbian helped me play this role.

“I would like to go to Spain for my next summer holiday”, one taxi driver told me, when I asked where Serbs tended to vacation the most.

“They have a very correct relationship with Serbia”, he added, clearly referring with approval to Spain’s refusal to recognise Kosovo.

While I lit up cigarettes during the conference breaks, I would think

about how all of this could have been avoided if we weren’t in our present situation of ethnic tension. As I took a minibus back home, using one of the illegal ones that travel to Pristina each day, I couldn’t stop thinking about how less complicated and less dramatic life would then be. As a Macedonian friend told me one night before departing from Belgrade, “Damn the person whoever started this whole thing”. I would definitely agree.

We fly for your smile.

We’d love to hear your thoughts too. Tell us what you like about Belgrade, what really makes you fizz with anger and what you would change if you were in charge.

Send us your thoughts, tell us a little bit about yourself, and send a photo too, if you like.

Send your contributions to: belgradeinsighteditor@birn.eu.com

Belgrade Through the Eyes of…

Ryan Fortner Second Secretary and Vice-Consul Nationality: Canadian In Belgrade since: August 2006 The best thing about Belgrade is: The fantastic energy of the city through the nightlife, cultural activities, and its friendly citizens.

The most annoying thing about Belgrade is: Traffic, of course! A couple more bridges and some roads without potholes might be a good start.

If I was mayor for one day: I would wash all the buildings, fix the sidewalks, install streetlights at crazy intersections, repair the roads and build a bridge or two (it is only one day).

After this very busy day, I will definitely deserve some rakija.

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business

Friday, Mar. 27 - Thursday, Apr. 02, 2009

Government Hopes for New IMF Loan Worth €3 Billion

Source: www.smedia.rs

Mladjan Dinkic, Serbia’s minister of economy and regional development.

S

erbia hopes to reach an agreement with the International Monetary Fund, IMF, on a new standby loan arrangement worth up to €3 billion by the end of this week.

Deputy Prime Minister Bozidar Djelic, stated that he expects talks with the IMF to end by late next week and said that the arrangement will apply for 2009 and 2010. “I expect this round of talks to end next Thursday or Friday,” Djelic told reporters.

Belex

A welcome rally

By Tijana Cvetkovic

T

The IMF mission began talks with Serbian officials on Monday 16th, aimed at supporting Serbia’s worsening balance of payments as well as its currency.

Serbia’s Minister of Economy and Regional Development, Mladjan Dinkic, stated that he anticipates that the two-year agreement will be worth approximately €3 billion. “I expect an arrangement to be agreed with the IMF on a €2 billion loan for

strengthening Serbia’s foreign currency reserves in 2009, and another billion for 2010,” Dinkic said at a roundtable debate, ‘Serbia in 2009 - Recession, Growth or Stagnation’.

He added that this will be more than enough money for Serbia to maintain currency stability.

Dinkic pointed out that, having spoken to the IMF representatives, he thinks both the government and the IMF share the same ideas regarding the effect that the current global economic crisis is having on Serbia, as well as the measures that should be taken to protect the country.

Whilst warning that “this year will not be an easy one for Serbia”, he believes that “it will be far from catastrophic”.

According to the Prime Minister, Belgrade is considering 10 to 15, as yet unspecified, options for the reduction of public spending, along with plans for the privatisation of Serbia’s energy sources. He also said that the rich will have to shoulder more of the burden of the economic crisis in Serbia, though he plans to see salaries and pensions maintained at their current levels.

According to this statement, the Serbian government’s platform for negotiations is based on increasing the budget deficit and reducing public spending. Prime Minister Cvetkovic stated that the national budget deficit is expected to be at least 3 per cent of GDP, despite previous projections of around 1.75 per cent in the 2009 budget.

The Serbian dinar has lost more than 25 per cent of its value since the global financial crisis began to bite in late 2008 and Belgrade has slashed its gross domestic product growth forecast to between 0.5 and 1.0 per cent for 2009, compared with the 6.0 per cent predicted before the crisis.

The IMF’s executive board already approved a $530 million (€403 million) standby loan in January, to help Serbia cope with the downturn. Cvetkovic stated that a larger arrangement with the IMF is necessary to ensure that Serbia can receive further loans from other international creditors.

he Belex indices saw a slow but steady five day rally with the Belex15 adding 12.7 per cent, and the composite Belexline up by 5.1 per cent over the week.

Over the period March 16th -19th

total turnover was 364 million, realised from 1,484 transactions. The market’s total turnover was slightly up on last week, nudging ahead by less than 5 per cent.

Investors showed greatest interest in the shares of Vranje based manufacturer of heating devices Alfa Plam, which turned over around 78 million dinars. Among other top traded issues were AIK Bank and Agrobank with volumes of 33 million dinars and 11 million dinars respectively.

Energoprojekt holding recorded the highest gain this week, advancing by a colossal 41.3 per cent, with 16,538 shares traded.

Soya bean producer Sojaprotein and AIK Bank followed, gaining

28.8 per cent and 27.7 per cent, over the week.

Amongst the top losers this week were Vino Zupa, plunging 16.7 per cent, Progres, which was off 16.2 per cent and Jubmes Bank which dropped 12.2 per cent. Foreign investors’ whose participation in the market was around 32 per cent of the total, continued to shy away from the market with a heavier presence in sell-side transactions.

Government FX bonds raised over €1.4 million over the period, with the most traded bond series A2015, which achieved a turnover of €900k.

Tijana Cvetkovic is an analyst with FIMA INTERNATIONAL A.D.

Wider Economic Benefits for New-For-Old Car Plan

Source: www.wikipedia.org

Fewer old vehicles on the street will help the ailing car industry and bring enviromental benifits

Comment by Ian Mihajlovic

W

ith the auto manufacturing sector tanking around the world, it comes as no surprise that governments are searching for ways to jump-start the sector.

Serbia is no exception.

The government’s new-for-old scheme to approve subsidies of €1,000 per vehicle for new domestic automotive purchases has so far received more than 12,000 applications. Serbia is very much in line with other European countries that are relying on such programmes to mitigate the collapse in automotive sales, a sector that is always deeply affected in any financial downturn.

Italy, for example, has laid out a €1.2 billion aid plan, though this is dwarfed by Spain’s €4 billion and France’s €6 billion stimulus plan.

Judging by results in other western European countries, new-for-old subsidies have strong potential to achieve their most obvious intention – to curtail plummeting auto sales.

New car registrations in Germany rose 21 per cent last month, although the longer term impact may be quite different.

Such programmes, however, also have numerous secondary effects, from removing heavily-polluting vehicles from the road to significantly boosting related industries, such as recycling and automotive parts.

These secondary economic and environmental effects are far more pronounced in developing economies, such as Serbia’s.

The Fiat plant in Serbia, for example, will retain its employees, currently numbering 1,500 workers, thereby easing the pain of a slowing economy.

Demand for new cars will also ensure that auto-parts manufacturers continue their investment plans in Serbia.

Germany’s Reum, for example, is expected to complete its €10 million investment within three months, a plant that will create 325 jobs by 2011.

Additionally, 60 per cent of parts for Fiat cars are expected to be produced by local manufacturers, so cottage industries will also benefit.

Secondly, the new-for-old subsidy will help to reduce Serbia’s rather large carbon footprint. Introducing newer, greener models will not only ease pressure for Serbia to become more environmentally responsible, but it will also support Serbia’s ambitions to enter the EU. Thirdly, the new-for-old scheme will provide a huge growth impetus for the scrap metal sector, whose profit margins have been growing exponentially since the introduction of new imported technologies. Indeed, recycling is a high growth sector in Serbia, which raised its recycling rate from 3 per cent in 2003 to 14 per cent in 2008. According to data from the Recycling Agency, however, Serbia is still behind the EU, which processes 50 to 60 per cent of its waste annually. This margin represents significant growth potential for the sector, particularly now that recyclers are learning to produce high quality secondary-processed materials.

Recent news that the free trade agreement with Russia will be widened to include passenger car exports, without quota limitations, will provide a further boost to Serbia’s automotive industry.

As a result of the stimulus, Fiat’s car plant plans to more than double capacity from an originally envisaged 20,000 to 50,000 vehicles per annum.

One observer said that an influx of new cars may even make drivers take more care on the road, but let’s not hold our breath.

Ian Mihajlovic is an M&A advisor based in Belgrade

business

Friday, Mar. 27 - Thursday, Apr. 02, 2009

Tackling Risk Vital for Economic Stability Serbia has a chance to manage recession says professor Dan Galai

Interview by Prabha Chandran

B

elgrade, 13 March: “We live in a global village where everyone is affected by the recession, but Eastern European countries can take advantage of it to strengthen their economies,” said Prof Dan Galai, author of several books on corporate risk management, at a seminar hosted by the Center for Professional Education, ICPE, in Belgrade.

The seminar provided some interesting insights into the many types of risks industry and businesses face today and how the global recession can be managed for optimal results.

“The losses that triggered this recession were caused by over-innovation in the financial and banking sectors of the US, the lack of transparency in disclosing inherent risks in these financial instruments and the consequent misleading of investors. Emerging economies like the Balkans are not vulnerable to these practices and can use this time to develop sound financial policies to strengthen their domestic markets,” said Dan Galai, Abe Grey Professor of Finance and Business Administration at the Hebrew University.

“For instance, Serbia must put into place financial regulations and policies that inspire foreign investment. It needs to introduce instruments like one-year treasury bonds so the

Professor Dan Galai spoke to our correspondent Prabha Chandran.

government can raise money from the public and, at the same time, have a viable financial benchmark for gauging real interest rates rather than depending on banks.”

“Then, there must also be macro-planning which includes complete risk analysis. In the US, [commercial] banks are required to have risk management, but not the Federal Bank.

Without proper regulations, you can’t assess risk factors.” It’s not rocket science and there are plenty of economic models for assessing risk exposure. What was missing so painfully, he told us, was the political will for regulation.

As a practical measure, Prof Galai suggested the Serbian government could, in the short term, subsidise new investments, for, say, one year at 30 per cent. This would give a stimulus to employment and growth, as would other possibilities, such as the setting up of ‘incubators’ for hi-tech industries with relatively modest amounts of capital. These have proved to be successful in many countries around the world including the USA, Israel, India and China.

“The problem today, is the high cost of capital,” he said. “Even though banks have reduced interest rates, the insurance and risk premiums are extremely high, which makes borrowing expensive. Interestingly, the premiums are high due to a perception of fear in the markets.”

The psychology that triggers a recession can be encapsulated in one date, said Prof Galai.

“September 15, 2008, the day that Lehman Brothers was allowed to shut its doors. It was the day that shockwaves spread through the largest banking and financial institutions in the US. Their stocks plummeted and panic spread.

Eventually, instead of paying the $10 million it would have taken to keep Lehman’s afloat, the government is now shelling out billions to keep Citigroup, AIG, and other banks afloat.”

Not one to shy away from stating the obvious, Prof Galai believes it is time for the US to nationalise its biggest banks: “In any case the government - or taxpayer - is now owner of a significant percentage of these stocks, so its time to clean up the system and then consider handing banks over to the private sector in a few years.”

“The future trend for banking and industry will be full public disclosure of operational and financial risk and this transparency is important,” he said. Going further, he believes “this recession should have happened seven years ago but was averted by [former Chairman of the Federal Reserve, Alan] Greenspan, with the result that we are now paying the price of a much deeper, longer, recession.”

As an economist, he believes the current global system is disposed to a recession every seven years or so, and that while it may cause pain to many, it is an essential corrective action for markets which tend to become inefficient and unsustainable if left to their own devices.

He ended on a note of caution on the Obama rescue plan, which, he says, essentially follows Bush’s ad hoc plan: “When governments spend large amounts of money, it’s often easy for it to be misused. We have seen this time and again when bureaucracies are entrusted with large amounts. Second, some of the programmes, like renewable energy and clean technology, will take time to actually get off the ground and translate into jobs. What happens in the meanwhile?”

Despite the gloom, Galai believes the worst of the recession is actually behind us and that we can expect to turn the corner in 2010.

Meanwhile, Serbia can position itself to attract international investment when the capital markets perk up again by making some smart moves now.

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EPS plans EPCG share purchase Serbia’s public electric power company, EPS, has shown interest in purchasing an 18.3 per cent share of its Montenegrin counterpart, EPCG, radio B-92 reports. If the plan, worth over €150 million, goes ahead, EPS would also be required to buy small shareholders’ shares, resulting in ownership of up to 44 per cent of the company. Reportedly, other foreign electricity companies, Russia’s Inter Rao and Italy’s A2A, have also shown an interest in the Montenegrin power company.

New Office for Local Development in Sokobanja A new Office for Local Development has opened in the Eastern Serbian municipality of Sokobanja. Funded by the German government in conjunction with the German Agency for Technical Cooperation, GTZ, the Local Economic Development Office will serve as a first point of contact for local entrepreneurs and business leaders, as well as businesses from outside the region who are considering investing in the municipality. It is hoped that the new organisation will lead to greater investment and more jobs for the 18,000 people living in the area.

February Currency Reserves at €8.24 billion Serbia’s foreign currency reserves increased by €241.9 million to €8.24 billion, the central bank announced. The sale of 51 per cent of the Petroleum Industry of Serbia (NIS) for €400 million was the main reason for the growth. Foreign currency reserves of commercial banks amounted to €755.2 million.

Neobus Sales to Germany, France and Netherlands Neobus buses, in cooperation with Dutch company VDL, one of the largest bus manufacturers in Europe, will produce 150 vehicles annually, exclusively for the EU market. The first prototype vehicles should leave the factory in few days. The CEO of Neobus, Radenko Kostic, said that the company is the only bus factory in the Balkans that has the necessary licenses for production of buses for the EU market. The Dutch company, Kostic said, “sought a partner for production of a new type of city bus, and Neobus met all the criteria.”

Greece Invested €2.5 Billion in Serbia Greece has invested about €2.5 billion in Serbia, Miltijadis Varviciotis, the deputy minister of foreign affairs of Greece said.

He said that there were good prospects for further development of economic cooperation between Serbia and Greece in the areas of energy, telecommunications, civil engineering, tourism and real estate. Varviciotis, who is on a three-day visit to Belgrade, said that about 200 Greek-Serbian companies and 200 Greek companies, with about 27,000 workers, were doing business in Serbia. He claimed that an improvement in the investment climate and changes to the legal framework could see more Greek businesses setting up in Serbia.

New Mazda in Belgrade Despite the unpromising climate, Mazda will launch two new vehicles, the Mazda 3 and Mazda 6, in a glitzy event at Belgrade’s Grand Casino ahead of the Belgrade Auto Fair which starts on the 27th. The Mazda 6 was recently voted Serbia’s ‘car of the year’ for 2009.

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regional

Mourning the Wrong Grave in Kosovo A family from Kosovo’s northern town of Mitrovica has discovered that the man they buried, believing it was their father, may in fact be someone else. The Family, identified only as ‘Family N’, from Mitrovica buried their father immediately after the 1999 war, having identified him by the clothes he was wearing, The Municipal Assembly of Mitrovica and a nongovernmental organisation, Kujtimi (Remembrance), have since warned the family that the dead man may have been someone else.

It is estimated that around 2,000 people buried after the war were identified solely on the basis of the clothes they were wearing.

Distressed Bosnians Suggest Donkey for Mayor The southern Bosnian city of Mostar is facing a rapidly worsening economic and social crisis brought on by intractable political bickering that has blocked the establishment of a new city government and adoption of its budget for more than five months. Protesting over the inability of their politicians to elect a city mayor more than five months after the last elections, local residents brought a donkey to demonstrations that they held last Thursday, proposing the animal be the city’s new mayor.

Macedonia’s Ivanov Reveals Disco Dancing Past The ruling conservative VMRO DPMNE party’s presidential candidate, Georgi Ivanov, now a professor of political science at Skopje’s law faculty, was a hot-blooded disco dancer in his teenage years, he told local media on Monday. He claims he even won a few amateur dancing contests at his favorite holiday destination, the Greek tourist resort of Leptokaria, when he was young. Ivanov also gave details of his friendship from his student days with his current opponent for the presidential office, Liberal Democrat Nano Ruzin, who was also born in Valandovo. “All the girls were in love with Nano Ruzin so he was our idol,” Ivanov says.

Macedonians Ask if They Can Vote for a Muslim Several Orthodox Christians from Macedonia’s central town of Negotino worried they would be committing a sin if they voted for Muslim candidate Imer Selmani in this Sunday’s presidential elections. The local priest gave his blessing for them to vote for whom they like. “It makes no difference whether you vote for a Muslim or a Christian. It is God’s will who will win”, he said.

Macedonians and Albanians have typically voted for representatives of their own ethnic groups in the past, and the other six candidates for the presidency have campaigned accordingly. Selmani, however, has staged rallies in areas populated by the Macedonian majority as well as in the Albanian community. One Negotino Orthodox believer said he was considering voting for the Muslim candidate because, “unlike the rest of the candidates, he has insulted no one during the campaign”.

Friday, Mar. 27 - Thursday, Apr. 02, 2009

Ancient World Intrudes into Macedonia Election Race The opposition says the government’s obsession with ancient classical history is pushing the country deeper into isolation.

By Sinisa-Jakov Marusic in Skopje

T

he new buzzword in Macedonia is “antique-isation”. This freshly introduced term was initially used by the opposition to describe what they see as the government’s romantic obsession with ancient history, as part of its populist quest for ratings.

But it has already become part of the political vocabulary, as well as the bickering, in the run-up to the March 22 presidential and local elections.

Criticism from the opposition Social Democrats peaked after the right-of-centre VMRO DPMNE-led government at the beginning of this year renamed the main highway after Alexander of Macedon, the warrior from the 4th century BC whose ethnic origins remain hotly disputed between scholars in Athens and Skopje.

They also announced a colossal monument of the conqueror – also known as Alexander the Great – is to be put up in the centre of Skopje.

Macedonia’s biggest sports arena has already been named after Alexander’s father, Philip of Macedon.

But what started as a taunt directed at Greece is now dividing society at home between those who take pride in their Slavic origins and those who prefer to see themselves as descendants of the Macedonia of the ancient, classical world.

“The trend towards ‘antique-isation’ is real and intentional” The former say the recent outburst of state-sponsored nationalism and references to ancient symbols pointlessly provokes Greece and is damaging their chances of reaching a solution to the burning row over Macedonia’s name.

If such a solution cannot be found, the chances of the small Euro-Atlantic hopeful joining NATO and the EU in the foreseeable future look remote.

Without such integration, many observers predict an upsurge of discontent among Macedonia’s large Albanian minority, who comprise a quarter of the population.

Some fear that ethnic Albanians could even revolt and seek to secede if they feel held back by what they see as the point-scoring obsession of the majority.

“The trend towards ‘antiqueisation’ is real and intentional”, says Gordan Georgiev, head of the Forum Centre for strategic research and documentation.

“It is an attempt by [Prime Minister Nikola] Gruveski’s government to maintain its high ratings though nationalistic rhetoric and by ‘defocusing’ public attention from everyday real problems,” Georgiev told Balkan Insight.

This policy gained greater momentum “when the government realised it could profit at home from be-

Source: www.panoramio.com

In 2006 the government renamed the international airport ‘Alexender the Great Airport’ in what was widely seen as a provocative move

ing stubborn over the name row with Greece”, he says.

In April 2008, Athens blocked Skopje from joining NATO, arguing that the name “Macedonia” implied a territorial claim to the Greek northern province of the same name.

Greece has threatened to do the same over the EU, unless UN-mediated talks yield a solution.

They have also accused Macedonia of “stealing” Hellenic history and culture, insisting that Ancient Macedonia was Greek in thought and speech.

Georgiev warns that the Macedonian government’s stance is undermining the position of the country in the UN-sponsored talks with Athens.

“The West is not buying the [government’s] story about Ancient Macedonia – they want to see pragmatism,” he says.

“Calling on the past is not the best way to address Macedonia’s current problems,” the EU ambassador to Macedonia, Erwan Fouere, recently told the BBC. He urged for a “more rational approach” towards the name issue. “We continue encouraging the government here to stay out of any actions, decisions or statements that could be interpreted in a different way, or be counterproductive,” Fouere said.

“There are no Slavic or ancient Macedonians, we are all one. Macedonians.”

The US ambassador, Phillip Rucker, also recently recommended focusing more on the future than the past.

After some harsh criticism, Gruevski recently came out with the conciliatory statement that “there are no Slavic or ancient Macedonians, we are all one. Macedonians.”

When Macedonia was a republic of Yugoslavia from 1944 to 1991, officials laid more stress on the

Slavic identity of the Macedonians, as a bond linking them to the other “southern Slav” peoples. Ancient Macedonia was only given a vague mention in school textbooks.

This changed after VMRO DPMNE took power in 2006, when the government renamed the main airport “Alexander the Great”, angering Athens and annoying other Western countries, which urged Skopje to call off the renaming as a sign of good will.

That has not happened. Instead, a recent controversial video, shown on state television, featured an impersonation of God speaking to the nation as the “descendants of Macedonia”. Another state-sponsored commercial features Alexander the Great, and the country’s promotional video currently running on CNN includes other symbols of the disputed ancient past.

Macedonia’s former foreign minister, Slobodan Casule, believes there is no problem and blames the opposition for making it an issue.

But he, too, warns against an “artificial debate” about Macedonian origins.

“We show our weakness and inability to cope with the problems by creating artificial internal polemics about our origins, which not only feeds Greek nationalism but also Bulgarian and Albanian [nationalism],” Casule said.

Political analyst Imer Ismaili warns of another possible problem – growing Albanian impatience with the current stalemate.

If what he calls “the ethnocentric rule of this government” continues, and if Gruevski’s refusal to solve the name problem leaves the country isolated, Ismaili believes that the Albanian minority will cease to be neutral over the name row and become aggravated.

“If [the Albanians in Macedonia] remain on the bottom of Europe, unable to travel freely in the West where many of them have relatives working, and stay isolated by a visa wall

even from neighbouring Albania and Kosovo, they could revolt,” he said.

The country has already experienced a six-month Albanian armed insurgency in 2001, which ended with the signing of the Ohrid peace accord, granting them greater rights.

The leader of the ethnic Albanian opposition party, the Democratic Party of Albanians, Menduh Thaci, recently warned the government not to forget the interests of the minority.

“The West is not buying the story about Ancient Macedonia – they want to see pragmatism,” “The Albanians from Macedonia will join their brothers from Albania and Kosovo in NATO and the EU regardless of whether Gruveski’s incapable government has the capacity to lead the country there,” he said.

There must be a change in Gruevski’s policy after the election, Ismaili argues. “He has to be more focused on finding a solution to the name row and leave the so-called ‘antique-isation’ aside, because it’s leading the country into an abyss.”

But Georgiev sees no sign of an imminent change in direction. “Playing on the card of populism is all that is left for Gruevski to do after he isolated the country and shut every door.”

The new president is not likely to change the tone of the debate, either.

The front-runner in the race is VMRO’s Georgi Ivanov, who Georgiev sees as inexperienced and lacking the capacity to form his own policy independently of Gruevski.

“We will have a Putin-Medvedev situation, with one controlling the other,” he says, referring to the double-act in the Kremlin, in which President Dmitry Medvedev is widely seen as a tool of Prime Minister Vladimir Putin.

Source: www.BalkanInsight.com

out & about

Friday, Mar. 27 - Thursday, Apr. 02, 2009

9

On the Raven King’s Trail in Transylvania

By Marcus Tanner

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he woman from the bank was sharp with me down the phone line to Deva, an uninviting looking town in the middle of Transylvania. “You should have told us you were going to Romania,” she tut-tutted. “It’s on our black list for identity theft and fraud.

That’s why we blocked your card.” Thanks, I thought. There I was in the middle of nowhere, having hopped off the train on the trail of a 15th-century king I was writing a book about, and I couldn’t get any money from the ATM.

Hunedoara I hurried on to the local castle at Hunedoara, hoping that the bank would have sorted my cash crisis by dinnertime. In the meantime I tried to forget money and lose myself in the Gothic turrets, battlements, moat and drawbridge.

Hunedoara castle was once the childhood home of Matthias Hunyadi, one-time King of Hungary and a personal hero of mine, not so much for his extensive military conquests but his other activities.

Impressed with the example of Julius Caesar, who was both emperor and writer, Matthias had laid aside his weapons in the 1480s, when he was getting on, and concentrated on high culture, building up one of the great libraries of Renaissance Europe and filling his court with philosophers, writers, artists and singers from every part of Europe. With his puissant Italian consort Beatrice at his side, he presided over a true golden age, whose legacy was smashed to smithereens when the Ottomans invaded Hungary in the 1520s, some years after Matthias’s death.

During his own lifetime, Matthias dropped his family name of Hunyadi and styled himself Corvinus, “the Raven”, and his castle in Transylvania, not far from where he was born, is full of raven motifs carved in stone.

Ravens apart, there were not many other signs that this had ever been the childhood home of a great monarch. Instead, the main exhibition was a waxwork collection of famous world personalities, including a stout-looking Lady Di dressed in eau-de-nil evening gown and tiara. A crowd of Romanian tourists bustled past, shepherded by their Orthodox priest, pausing briefly to stare briefly at Di and her waxwork companion, Osama bin Laden.

I left, a little disappointed. I’d tramped round much of Europe, looking for the remnants of the King’s famous library scattered around Hungary, Italy, Spain, Belgium, Austria, and indeed England. But Transylvania was his ‘home turf’, so to speak, and it was here I had hoped to come across more tangible relics of his life.

But as the silence surrounding his name in the castle had showed, this wasn’t going to be easy, because Transylvania is contested land.

Like Kosovo, or Northern Ireland, one nation is in possession of the turf, but another questions that fact.

In Transylvania, that “other” is the Hungarians, overlords of Transylvania until the First World War and disconsolate and unwilling citizens of Romania ever since. The Romanians pay that Hungarian resentment back in kind, resolutely ignoring the Hungarian character of Transylvania’s ancient monuments - hence Lady Di’s precedence over memories of Matthias in the castle.

Cluj I pushed on to Cluj, or Koloszvar in Hungarian, one of the jewels in Transylvania’s crown, the old centre dominated by a fabulous red-roofed cathedral-sized parish church in which Matthias was almost certainly baptized and near to which stands the squat white townhouse where he was born in the 1440s.

In these shady cobbled side streets with their ivy-clad, sparrow-filled walls, one can see why one British writer in the 1920s drew vague likeness between Cluj and Oxford. But it’s Oxford with a vein of ethnic tension.

Back in the 1990s, Cluj laboured under an ultra-nationalist Romanian mayor, named Funar, whose anti-Hungarian rants and campaigns have left their mark – and not just on the town’s benches, which he had painted in Romania’s national colours. Mayor Funar also half-ruined the huge statue of Matthias in the main square, undermining the foundations with bizarre and unsightly archaeological digs aimed at unearthing various pots and shovels that would “prove” the antiquity of the Romanian presence in the area.

Timisoara I felt relieved to leave the memory-laden gothic lanes of Cluj for the open, baroque squares of Timisoara, another Hunyadi family ‘seat’ back in the 15th century and now one of Romania’s most cosmopolitan and attractive towns. Arriving at a weekend, I was struck by the continuing devotion of Romanians to their church, because in the Disney-style Orthodox cathedral it was standing room only on Sunday – the huge congregation bulked out by a fair sprinkling of youthful, good-looking black-clad nuns While Romanians see Transylvania as the birthplace of their nationality, and Hungarians insist it is the fortress of theirs’, making it a case of cradle-versus-bastion, there was once a third player on Transylvania’s ethnic stage.

These were the Transylvanian Saxons, formerly 300,000 strong but now down to a handful of Lutheran pastors and a few thousand oldies, like Sam Hutter, bellringer and practically the last Saxon in his once populous village, near Sibiu.

Sibiu I had swung down to Sibiu to visit the former stamping ground of King Matthias’s most infamous houseguest – Dracula. Yes, the prince of darkness not only existed but started out as a protege of Matthias’s father, Janos, who dusted down the hick young Romanian princeling and took him off to the Hungarian court in the 1450s to get spruced up. But after Janos died, and after the young man’s boiling and impaling activities got on everyone’s nerves, Matthias had Dracula placed under comfortable house arrest at his summer palace in northern Hungary at Visegrad.

There the captive’s luminous eyes and fearsome reputation (much bruited about by Matthias) attracted the attention of curious diplomats, including the papal nuncio who wrote a long description of him to Pope Pius II. The Pontiff was fascinated. “Such is the discrepancy between a man’s appearance and his soul!” he wrote.

I’d always thought “Dracula” was a name cooked up by Bram Stoker but no, Dracula was precisely what Matthias called him, when he wrote to the Saxon burghers of southern Transylvania commending “our friend Dracula” to

http://merlinlx.wordpress.com

Hunedoara castle is an impressive Gothic structure, largely spared the ravages of time.

their tender care as he journeyed home, following his release.

Yet it’s a pity that Romania’s tourist authorities play so relentlessly on the Dracula cult to the virtual exclusion of all else, for it totally overshadows the more accessible and no less interesting Saxon history of southern Transylvania.

The Saxons may all have gone – all bar Mr Hutter, that is – but their pointy churches enclosed by high walls, built to withstand Ottoman sieges, remain, as do those villages of gingerbread houses, kept from ruin by funds sent from Saxons living in Germany.

Sibiu, which the Saxons called Hermannstadt, and Europe’s capital of culture in 2007, is a fine base from which to explore these semideserted gems, which now only echo to the ancient German dialect of the Saxons when they return each autumn for their annual festival.

The Saxons never claimed Transylvania as their exclusive property. Not for them talk of cradles or bastions, for which reason the Romanians eye them with less suspicion than the Hungarians. The Romanians of Sibiu are far more inclined to celebrate the town’s Saxon heritage than their counterparts in Cluj are ready to acknowledge their city’s Hungarian dimension, for example. They have even elected one of the handful of remaining Saxons in the town as mayor.

Funnily enough, it’s the visiting Germans who seem least interested in their Transylvanian kith and kin - those descendants of youngsters who suddenly left the Rhineland for the distant

Carpathians far off in the 12th century, so spawning the legend of a sinister pied piper who lured the children into the dark mountains. “They were all Nazis,” a German woman working temporarily for a Roma charity told me, curtly.

Maybe. Certainly, when old Sam Hutter took to me to his village war memorial, to point out a long roll call of Hutters who had died in the service of the upright old Emperor Franz Josef of Austria, I couldn’t help but notice that a fair number of local Saxons had died rather more recently, in the service of another, less reputable Austrian.

Transylvania, land “beyond the forest”, a shifting sort of place, not always as comfortable as its name might suggest. But one evening, standing in a grass meadow outside the old Saxon church where the German woman had started telling me about the Nazis, what really impressed was the mysterious beauty of the place – golden sunset, old church, dark forest.

There are still bears and wolves in the immense forests of Transylvania though I didn’t see any. But I did see a real raven, with a huge wingspan, gliding on the air currents from the churchyard where I stood across the valley below towards the dark green forest where it disappeared. And I thought of Matthias, who’d chosen that dark, unknowable bird for his emblem, possibly after watching one gliding across a valley toward the forest in much the same way as I had, years ago.

‘The Raven King: Matthias Corvinus and the fate of his lost library’, by Marcus Tanner, is published by Yale University Press.

10

the belgrader

Friday, Mar. 27 - Thursday, Apr. 02, 2009

Dining Out

Ikki As sure as you’re guaranteed to find an Irish Bar in every city foreigners frequent, there’ll be a sushi bar too – no matter how far away you are from the sea. Belgrade’s best known is Ikki.

By Trencherman

S

ushi in a landlocked country, where the transport infrastructure is best described as limited, can be a risky business, but the boss said it was time to do Japanese and so off we went, to perhaps Belgrade’s best known sushi bar and restaurant, Ikki.

Ikki is in an unfashionable part of Dorcol, in Gospodar Jovanova, not far enough up the hill to Trg Republic to be described as central, and not far enough down to be amongst the hip bars and restaurants of Strahinjica Bana. All the same, it’s become a permanent fixture on the restaurant scene and seems to attract a fair mix of people genuinely out to eat some Japanese food, as well as those just wanting to damage the expense account.

Downstairs is a bar, where you can just tuck into a plate of sushi with a beer, but the main dining room is upstairs. It’s all very pleasant in a ‘Hilton Hotel’ kind of way, displaying a few Japanese symbols, but

nothing that would shock the average visitor into thinking they’d strayed anywhere too strange or foreign.

We kicked off with a large order of tuna and salmon nigiri, some tekka maki with shrimp and some vegetarian rolls, as well as a bit of salmon and tuna sashimi. The food arrived promptly and was served with enough wasabi and ginger for any taste. The fish tasted fresh, but we did not get the best cuts of the salmon. Some parts were darker and tougher, and they had obviously been cut from the edge of the fillet. The tekka maki were good.

The wrappers were firm enough to hold everything together well, but not so tough that there was too much chewing involved, and the rice was suitably sticky. The vegetarian rolls had fresh, ripe avocado and cucumber inside and were pleasantly creamy and crunchy.

I confess I’ve eaten here before and, that time too, I was surprised that the sashimi came in chunks rather than slices. Personally, I like to bite through a thin slice of fish, and when it’s in blocks there’s just too much work to do. It really brings home the fact that this stuff hasn’t been cooked!

We followed all this with seafood and vegetable tempura and some scampi, both of which were excellent. The tempura was a varied mix of crunchy vegetables and well-cooked fish with a light batter; whilst the delicious scampi were made from huge Dublin

Photo courtesy of www.restoran27.com

27 is plush, expensive and frequented by the rich and famous.

Bay prawns, part-shelled and wonderfully battered.

To follow, we tucked into some yakitori chicken - well-grilled chicken and spring onions served in a sweet sticky sauce - and ‘Katsu Beef’, a breaded fillet served on a bed of rice, which sounds uninspiring but was, in fact, superb.

Desserts ranged in quality from some rather good deep-fried bananas with honey, through a run-of-the-mill fruit cocktail which was heavy on the ap-

ple and kiwi, but lacked almost anything else, to the frankly awful green tea ice cream which tasted artificial, and would be best described as the flavour you’d expect if you licked the soap displays in ‘Lush’.

To drink, we chose a Chilean chardonnay, which was cold, fruity and slightly oaky and which, on balance, was worth the 1,470 dinar price tag.

So, to be honest, Ikki was a mixed bag.

Some work is definitely required in the kitchen to make sure that only the

best cuts make it into the sushi, but the tempura and the other hot dishes were excellent. I think, over my time in Belgrade, I’ve probably visited most restaurants that claim to offer Japanese food and, despite my complaints, I’ve yet to have a better all-round experience than you’ll get at Ikki.

Ikki, Gospodar Jovanova 46 Tel: 011 2184183 Price guide: 2,250-2750 per head for three courses with a modest wine

We Recommend Every week we feature a selection of restaurants picked by our team. They give a flavour of what’s out there on the Belgrade restaurant scene and should provide you with a few alternatives to get you out of your dining rut. Our choices may not always have had the full Trencherman treatment, but you can be sure that one of us has eaten there and enjoyed it.

Burrito Bar

Trag

Novi Zlatiborac

With a menu best described as ‘nearMexican’ thanks to its seemingly improvised food, Burrito serves pleasantly cheap but tasty food. With its cosy atmosphere supported by the Latin music in the background, this is a popular place with younger locals who want to try something a little different.

The pasta in this popular Italian restaurant makes it definitely worth a visit, even though the area itself is pretty shabby. Portions are generous, the food consistently good, and the prices surprisingly low. Booking is necessary most nights.

This huge traditional Serbian restaurant is quite a rarity – there is nothing even close to ‘kitsch’ about it. Portions are big enough to match the interior. The smoked pork schnitzel, in particular, was superb.

“One of the best places for traditional Serbian cuisine in town,” says one of our correspondents.

Kraljice Marije 71 Tel: 011 3376546

Djordja Jovanovica 2 Tel: 011 3227495

The name Portobello, or calm port, characterises our restaurant perfectly. A calm, warm and cozy place for you to set sail from on a culinary journey Svetog Save 11, BELGRADE Tel/Fax: 011 2458373 www.portobello-restoran.co.rs e-mail: info@portobello-restoran.co.rs

Kafana Kafana The traditional rakija direct from the farm is a delight and the roast lamb is delicious but bring some earplugs unless you’re big a fan of Kraftwerk and KLF. Ulica Djusina 5 Tel: 011 3237810

Humska 8 Tel: 011 2650627

the belgrader

Friday, Mar. 27 - Thursday, Apr. 02, 2009

11

Partibrejkers Still Partying With their enduring hard edged combination of bluesy rock and aggressive punk attitude, the Partibrejkers can still cut it after almost 30 years.

By David Galic

Reporting from Belgrade

L

egendary Serbian rockers, Partibrejkers (Party Breakers) will be promoting their latest record Sloboda ili Nista (Freedom or Nothing) during a two-day stint at the newly renovated Dom Omladine. Strangely, these concerts will be the first time the album has been promoted in Belgrade, even though it was actually released in 2007.

However, the band has been known for going their own way ever since their formation in 1982. For nearly three decades, they have been led by controversial frontman Zoran “Cane” Kostic who is regarded as one of the most important and interesting personalities on Serbia’s rock scene, thanks to his provocative behaviour and statements.

Partibrejkers’ hard edged combination of bluesy rock and aggressive punk attitude, with their repetitive lyrics sounding more like protest slogans than songs, earned the band a large following in the heyday of the former Yugoslavia’s rock scene in the late 1980s and early 1990s.

The numerous stories that surround them often sound more like urban myths than genuine anecdotes, such a legendary gig when famous Serbian film director Emir Kusturica showed up at a Partibrejkers gig in 1992, along with Jim Jarmush, who introduced the band, and Johnny

Source: www.hiendfi.com

Partibrejkers, a seminal part of the Serbian rock landscape, play music that is as relevant today as it was in the 80s.

Depp, who played guitar with them on stage that night.

At the start of the war in Bosnia in 1992, members of Partibrejkers and other big ex-Yugoslav bands of the time, Ekaterina Velika and Elektricni Orgazam, formed a supergroup called Rimtutituki (a fairly vulgar name once deciphered) to record the cynical anti-war track ‘Slusaj ‘vamo’ (Listen ‘ere), which they promoted by blaring the song from a truck driving around the streets of Belgrade.

There was a lull in the Partibrejkers’ output during the war, with several line-up changes and a sporadic concert schedule, but they always found the right time to resurface, such as during the student and civilian protests of 1997, when they supported the cause with their gritty rock’n’roll.

Partibrejkers have remained true to the streets that spawned them over the years and though their music today might seem a little repetitive and outdated, like a Serbian AC/DC, it still resonates. Wellknown Belgrade rock critic Goran Terzic once said that “the history of Yugoslav rock’n’roll has not seen a band whose outsider position transformed into a more fascinating generational sound.”

The two Belgrade concerts this weekend are a perfect opportunity for those outside the scene to get a glance of this central part of the city’s rock history in the flesh, a little weathered and beaten by the times, but still alive and kicking.

Il Divo Bring ‘Popera’ to Belgrade

Popular classical quartet, Il Divo, will be belting out all of your favourite arias at the Belgrade Arena on the 26th.

I

n 2001, to the horror of classical music connoisseurs, reality television judge and record company guru Simon Cowell decided to create an operatic boy band, inspired by the popularity of ‘classical-lite’ songs such as Andrea Bocelli’s 1995 ‘Con te partiro’ as well as the worldrenowned Three Tenors.

The result, Il Divo, was born through a series of auditions held by Cowell – best known for being the cranky judge on reality TV shows “American Idol” and “X-Factor” who brutally insults contestants for their inadequacies – between 2001 and 2003, leading to the formation of a multinational quartet, three of

whom are classically-trained opera singers.

With members hailing from America, France, Spain and Switzerland, the group performs songs in many different languages. Confirming Cowell’s grasp of the pop world’s zeitgeist, this group of dashingly good looking, well dressed young

Source: http://classymusic.wordpress.com

men singing ‘popera’ has proved a runaway success. Il Divo’s last album, ‘The Promise’ hit the top spot in five countries on its release, and their total album sales stand at over 22 million.

Il Divo has toured the world, playing sold out concert halls and arenas since 2006, not to mention perform-

ing to a global audience at the opening of the World Cup in 2006, and winning the hearts of sentimental housewives everywhere they go.

The group will be performing at the Belgrade Arena on Thursday, March 26th from 8p.m. Tickets are available from the Box Office (Tel. 011 220 2222, www.arenabeograd.com)

12

the belgrader

Friday, Mar. 27 - Thursday, Apr. 02, 2009

Going Out

We Recommend

Kafana Culture

Friday

Euforia Belgrade alternative rock group Euforia continue to promote their second album, unimaginatively named 2, with a show in the newly opened Batler, a twin club of the increasingly popular Francuska Sobarica. What makes this show interesting is that Banana Rave member Paki will be spinning on the same night for those that would rather dance to nu rave and electro than sway and convulse to Euforia’s post-punk musings. Batler, Francuska 12

Our correspondent uncovers the joys of Belgrade’s traditional kafanas

By David Galic

Reporting from Belgrade

O

nce thought of as passé or unfashionable, the kafana is no longer a place solely for the middle-aged drunkard drowning his sorrows after another depressing day of work, or just trying to get away from home for a while. Young people are starting to recognise these taverns for what they once were: places where people can sit, have a drink, a bite to eat, and rediscover the long lost art of conversation.

Despite Belgrade’s reputation as a clubbing city, most groups of friends frequent no more than five or ten clubs and, considering that young Belgraders tend to go out more than twice a week, the repertoire can feel limited quite quickly. For many people, there are only so many times they can hear the same song, or see the same group of people standing in the same club, before wanting a change of scenery.

Unfortunately, whilst Belgrade’s clubs were focusing on modernisation – installing marble bars, crystal sculptures, indoor fountains and waterfalls – the city’s kafana population was withering. Some of the oldest and most historically significant places were turning week after week into slot clubs or betting shops, much to the chagrin of older Belgraders who could only watch it happen around them.

However, there are still a few remaining and, more and more, these kafanas are filled to the brim with younger people, especially on Friday and Saturday nights.

6 i 400 is one of these popular haunts and it is hard to find a free table on Fridays, no matter what time you arrive. There is nothing extraordinary about the kafana itself, it’s neither particularly charming nor offensive, despite the rather crass lighting, stuffed birds on the walls and the large, incongruous, fish tank.

This kafana is popular, reportedly,

Saturday

Multicolor Party Come on down, literally, to the legendary basement club Akademija for a night of urban street funk, with various local DJs spinning copious amounts of dubstep, breakbeat, drum’n’bass and other related dance music. Spinning on that night will be Filtercutter, Pantha, Mote and Kaiah.

Make sure you don’t accidentally wander into Akademija’s smaller club, where you will be unpleasantly surprised by a hardcore show. Akademija, Rajiceva 10

Source: www.hiendfi.com

Once the preserve of the middle-aged, Belgrade’s youth are rediscovering the kafana.

for two reasons. One is its prime location on Ruzveltova, where there are many popular night spots within a 500 metre radius. Kafanas like this often serve as a starting point for a night out, a place where they can fill up on less expensive drinks before moving on to nightclubs.

The second is the great service, lavished on all-comers by the head waiter, Nesa. This kind, attentive gentleman often serves the entire kafana by himself without complaints, serving ladies first and asking if patrons would prefer their beer with or without a head before pouring.

He’s always prepared to put the customer’s wishes before a fat profit - a rarity in any big city bar.

Another gem, Zona Zamfirova, is located across the street from the Yugoslav Drama Theatre on Kralja Milana.

This is a big place, with two separate dining areas, and has some of the most bizarre décor I have ever seen - the ceiling is covered in white umbrellas. Why, I don’t know. I asked but no one could tell me. Perhaps the roof leaks.

I came with a party of 20, and there’s nothing worse if you’re a waiter, than large parties. They change their minds, they forget what they ordered, they’re noisy and row-

My Picks

Sport Impuls Every week, Rian Harris tells us one of her favourite places to shop. sections by sport, with clothing and equipment for every activity you can imagine: tennis, swimming, basketball, volleyball, skiing/snowboarding, boxing, ping pong, camping, you name it. Brand names such as Helly Hansen, Nike and Speedo, are available, and they have largest selection of athletic shoes I’ve ever seen in BelBy Rian Harris grade. They even have home gym ooking forward to spring sports equipment. A tennis racket could and need to get some new be had for 1700 dinars, while a Euro League quality basketball for 7990. gear?

Sport Impuls is a good place to start. This enormous store on two Terazije 7-9, Mon - Fri 10- 2100, Sat floors has everything arranged in 10-2100, Sun 10-1600

L

dy, you never know where you stand, but Mico, the head waiter is always in control, unflustered, and exceptionally courteous, a man whose experience is written into every wrinkle on his forehead. Zona Zamfirova, like most kafana, is open until 11pm on weekdays, but stays open until midnight on weekends.

If you want a ‘near kafana’ experience, late into the evening, check out the cafe in the reception area of the Royal Hotel. Located on Kralja Petra Street, the Royal makes up for its fairly ordinary appearance with its prime location.

Its always busy - in fact, the last two times I’ve been to the Royal café for late night drinks its been full It seems to have become something of a hangout for Belgrade skateboarders perhaps because of the skate shop across the street but don’t let that put you off! The service is good, the ambience is great and the drinks are served late into the night.

6 i 400 and Zona Zamfirova serve great traditional food too, but order early, before the kitchen closes.

There are bars that serve beer all over the town, and you’ll find the same beer in these three kafanas but what makes these stand out, survive and prosper is a mixture of great location, great service and a great atmosphere.

Sunday

Dis-patch on Tour The lovely people who bring us the experimental and alternative electronic music festival Dis-Patch every year, have been organising related shows all year round in an effort to keep the festival name in the minds of Belgrade concert goers and secure a large turnout once again in the spring. Music will be provided by Mapstation, Add Noise and DJ Moodswinger, with live visual manipulation by Haritmia and Izvanredni Bob. Batler, Francuska 12

Monday

Extraordinary Stories of Invisible Lives Italian photographer Mario Boccia’s exhibition focuses on groups and individuals with disabilities living in institutions in Serbia: from young boys with Down’s syndrome and girls that play American football, to a theatre company composed only of disabled people to a Roma family that escaped Kosovo with a disabled child and the story of their struggle to keep the boy at home. Kneza Milosa 56

Tuesday

International Music Competition The opening of the 39th annual International Jeunesses Musicales Competition in Belgrade will feature a performance by the RTS symphony orchestra featuring acclaimed French pianist Michel Dalberto. The competition itself, in which over 70 pianists from over 20 countries will compete, lasts until the end of the month. Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5

Wednesday

Mimart Theatre exhibition The Mimart 25 exhibition celebrates the 25th anniversary of the work of the Mimart Theatre and the 40 plays in its repertoire over the years. The five-day exhibition will include the presentation of photographs of the plays, posters, programmes, awards, reviews, symbols of the theatre, costumes, masks and sculptures, all relating in some way to the theatre’s history as the first alternative theatre in Belgrade, formed in 1984. SKC Gallery, Kralja Milana 48

Thursday

The Ultra Twist These Italian do-it-yourself garage punks play boisterous, and sometimes indistinguishable, music with a twisted Mediterranean sense of humour and lack of pretentiousness that makes their performance more endearing than annoying. If the name of their last vinyl release “No Beer, No Fun,” is any indication, this should be a rousing show. Zica, Kraljevica Marka 5

the belgrader

Friday, Mar. 27 - Thursday, Apr. 02, 2009

13

What’s On CINEMAS Roda Cineplex Pozeska 83A , tel: 011 2545260 Bolt: 16:00 Madagascar: Escape 2 Africa: 15:40 He’s Just Not That Into You: 17:45 Marley and Me: 17:45 Changeling: 19:30, 22:00 Dom sindikata Trg Nikole Pasica 5, tel. 011 3234849 He’s Just Not That Into You: 17:00, 19:45 Marley and Me: 15:30, 17:30 Zone of the Dead: 15:30 Changeling: 19:30, 22:00 Ster City Cinema Delta City, Jurija Gagarina 16 (Blok 67), tel: 011 2203400 Confessions Of A Shopaholic: 12:40, 14:50, 17:00, 19:20 Marley and Me: 13:40, 16:00, 18:20, 20:40, 23:00 He’s Just Not That Into You: 21:30 Changeling: 11:30, 14:20, 17:10, 20:00, 22:50 Tuckwood Cineplex Kneza Milosa 7, tel: 011 3236517 He’s Just Not That Into You: 18:00, 22:45 Confessions Of A Shopaholic: 18:45 Valkyrie: 23:25 The Curious Case of Benjamin Button: 22:00 Dusk:16:00 Zone of the Dead : 15:45, 20:00 The International: 21:15 The Pink Panther 2: 15:40 Marley and Me: 15:30, 20:30 Changeling: 17:30, 20:15, 23:00 The Baader Meinhof Complex: 18:15

Friday, March 20 Music: Demo rock, punk and metal bands, Student Cultural Centre, Kralja Milana 48, 22:00 Cabaret (musical), Terazije Theatre, Terazije 29, 19:30 Extra Orkestar, Lava Bar, Kneza Milosa 77, 23:00 The Branka, Living Room, Kralja Milana 48, 23:00 Odium, Danguba, Cirila I Metodija 2, 23:00 Nada Pavlovic Band, Diva Restaurant, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 2, 20:00 Bjelo Dugme tribute band, Fest, Gradski Park 2, 23:00

Nightlife:

Other:

Other:

Other:

Disco Plastic, Plastic, Djusina 7, 23:00 Loco Power cover, Bitef art café, Skver Mire Trailovic 1, 23:00 Marcus Intalex, xLagoom, Svetozara Radica 1, 23:00 Bassment Party, The Tube, Dobracina 21, 23:00 DJ Stevie, Underworld, Corner of Ruzveltova and 27. Marta, 23:00 Vocal House, Mr. Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4/9, 23:00 Yu Rock, White, Pariska 1a, 23:00 Les Gigantes, Blue Moon, Knegilje Ljubice 4, 23,00 DJ Super Fly, Francuska Sobarica, Francuska 12, 23:00 Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 76, 23:00

New Stradija (play) National Theatre, Trg Republike 5, 19:30 Hitler and Hilter (play), Atelje 212, Svetogorska 21, 20:00 One Flew Over the Cukoo’s Nest (play), Belgrade Drama Theatre (BDP), Milesavska 64 20:00

Milk (play), Belgrade Drama Theatre (BDP), Milesavska 64, 20:00 New Stradija (play), National Theatre, Trg Republike 5, 19:30

Sunday March 22

The Merry Wives of Windsor (play), National Theatre, Trg Republike 5, 19:30 One Small Death Trilogy (play), Belgrade Drama Theatre (BDP), Milesavska 64, 20:00 Exhibition: Miodrag Mladjovic (woodwork), Graphic Collective Gallery, Obilicev Venac 27, 17:00

Music:

Tuesday, March 24

Makao Band, Mr. Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4/9, 23:00 Hit 202, Living Room, Kralja Milana 48, 23:00 Metal Sound fest, Danguba, Cirila I Metodija 2, 23:00

Music:

Other: Death and the Dervish (play), National Theatre, Trg Republike 5, 19:30 Exhibition: Slobodan Kastavarac (paintings), Tadeusa Koscuska 28, 17:00 Exhibition: Language of wood (Canadian graphic artists), Graphic Collective Gallery, Obilicev Venac 27, 17:00

Saturday, March 21 Music: Violent promotions fest, Student Cultural Centre, Kralja Milana 48, 23:00 Frankestra Band, Gaucosi, Dunavska 17a, 23:00 No Comment Band, Lava bar, Kneza Milosa 77, 23:00 Aurora, Living Room, Kralja Milana 48, 23:00 Ben Hur, Danguba, Cirila I Metodija 2, 23:00 Gyass Band and Marija Mihajlovic, Diva Restaurant, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 2, 20:00 Fuzzbox, Fest, Gradski Park 2, 23:00 Nightlife: Perpetuum Mobile, Bitef art café, Skver Mire Trailovic 1, 23:00 John 00 Fleming, xLagoom, Svetozara Radica 1, 23:00 DJ Pookie, Butler, Francuska 12, 23:00 Belgrade Disco Mafia, The Tube, Dobracina 21, 23:00 House Night, Mamolo, Ilije Garasanina 26, 21:00 DJ Marko Gangbangers, Underworld, Corner of Ruzveltova and 27.

Marta, 23:00 House Fever, Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4/9, 23:00 Disco House Night, White, Pariska 1a, 23:00 Soul Touch, Blue Moon, Knegilje Ljubice 4, 23,00

Nightlife: Sportsman Night, White, Pariska 1a, 23:00 Shaker Party, Mr. Stefan Braun Garden, Vojislava Ilica 86, 23:00 Karaoke, Miss Moneypenny, Ada Ciganlija (Makiska side 4), 21:30 Leftovers, Blue Moon, Knegilje Ljubice 4, 23:00 Lazy Sunday Afternoon, Fest, Gradski Park 2, 22:00 Hip hop & drum’n’bass, Underworld Corner of Ruzveltova and 27 Marta, 23:00 Superfly magic bus, Francuska Sobarica, Francuska 12, 23:00 Other: Dr. (play), National Theatre, Trg Republike 5, 19:30 After the Party (play), Belgrade Drama Theatre (BDP), Milesavska 64, 20:00 Exhibitionist (play), Atelje 212, Svetogorska 21, 20:00 Exhibition: Ana Vujovic (multimedia) REX, Jevrejska 16 , 17:00

Monday, March 23 Music: Elkwameya, Dom Sindikata, Decanska 14, 20:00 Swingle Fingers piano duo, Artget Gallery, Trg Republica 5/1, 21:00 Kareoke Night, Danguba, Cirila I Metodija 2, 23:00 Don Giovanni and Friends, Living Room, Kralja Milana 48, 23:00 Nightlife: Zlo & Naopako, Student Cultural Centre, Kralja Milana 48, 23:00 Video concerts, Fest, Gradski Park 2, 22:00 Dj Dutya, Francuska Sobarica, Francuska 12, 22:00 House Party (DJ Kobac), Blue Moon, Knegilje Ljubice 4, 23:00 Bla Bla Band, Vanila, Studentski trg 15, 22:30 Humanitarian Night, Mr. Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4/9, 23:00

Trance Balkan, DKSG Adresa: Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 179, 23:00 Ethno music night, Gaucosi, Dunavska 17, 23:00 Kinky Acoustic, Miss Moneypenny, Ada Ciganlija (Makiska side 4), 21:30 Counterignition, Living Room, Kralja Milana 48, 23:00 Red Hot Chilli Peppers tribute band, Danguba, Cirila I Metodija 2, 23:00 Nightlife: Psychodelic Tuesday, Underworld, Corner of Ruzveltova and 27 Marta, 23:00 Diesel Party, Mr. Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4/9, 23:00 Discount Night, Fest, Majke Jevrosime 20, 22:00 Zex Kazanova, Bambo Bar, Strahinjica Bana 71, 22:00 Other: The Cabinet Minister’s Wife (play), National Theatre, Trg Republike 5, 19:30 Half Price (play), Belgrade Drama Theatre (BDP), Milesavska 64, 20:00 Love Letter (play), Atelje 212, Svetogorska 21, 20:00 Exhibition: Sonja Zugic (painting) Singidunum Gallery, Kneza Mihaila 40, 17:00

Wednesday, March 25 Music: Aetar, Living Room, Kralja Milana 48, 23:00 Sober Paddies, Danguba, Cirila I Metodija 2, 23:00 Nightlife: Cocktail Wednesdays, Mamolo, Ilije Garasanina 26, 21:00 DJ Ike & Prema, Plastic, Djusina 7, 23:00 Popular Science, Underworld, Corner of Ruzveltova and 27. Marta, 23:00 Diesel Night, Mr. Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4/9, 23:00 Salsa Night, Havana, Nikole Spasica 1, 22:00 Samba, Bossa, Jazzy, Salvador Dali, Hilandarska 20, 22:00

Thursday, March 26 Music: Vlada Georgiev, Diva Restaurant, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 2, 20:00 Iriefm, Butler, Francuska 12, 22:00 The Resident, Bitefart café, Skver Mire Trailovic 1, 22:30 Tropico Band, Lava Bar, Kneza Milosa 77, 23:00 Zoomie, Danguba, Cirila I Metodija 2, 23:00 Nightlife: A Little Bit of 90s, Mistique, Aberdareva 1b, 23:00 Ladies’ Night, Mr Braun Garden, Vojislava Ilica 86, 23:00 Playground Radio Show Live, Tapas Bar, Dositejeva 17, 22:00 Kareoke Night, Gaucosi, Dunavska 17a, 23:00 Off Balance, The Tube, Dobracina 21, 23:00 DJ Krsh i Lom, Underworld, Corner of Ruzveltova and 27. Marta, 23:00 Other: Gas Light (play), Belgrade Drama Theatre (BDP), Milesavska 64, 20:00 Visitor (play), Atelje 212, Svetogorska 21, 20:00 Don Kihote (ballet), National Theatre, Trg Republike 5, 19:30 Exhibition: Aquarelle (water colors), SKC Gallery, Kralja Milana 48, 19:00 Exhibition: Marija Grahovac (drawings), Graphic Centre Gallery, Pariska 16, 19:00

14

sport

Friday, Mar. 27 - Thursday, Apr. 02, 2009

Antic Aiming for Giddy Heights in South Africa National soccer team coach, Radomir Antic, believes Serbia should not just qualify for next year’s finals, but also be a surprise package, in what would be their first appearance as an independent nation.

By Zoran Milosavljevic Reporting from Belgrade

W

hen Radomir Antic took over as Serbia’s national team coach only two weeks before the World Cup 2010 qualifiers kicked off last September, very few people believed he would be able to transform a side of perennial underachievers into one sitting at the top of their qualifying group, ahead of more heralded neighbours, Romania and 2006 finalists, France.

He did just that. And Serbia’s performances have given the 60-year old coach, who won the elusive Spanish league and cup double with Atletico Madrid in 1996, confidence that they can be a surprise package in the first World Cup to be held on African soil.

“We have come to a situation where we are really enjoying ourselves, as the players have blended into a unit playing the kind of football I prefer,” Antic said, in a lengthy interview with Belgrade’s B92 broadcaster. “I now want not just to qualify for the World Cup finals, but also to make a mark there, because the players and their commitment to

the cause have instilled a new level of confidence in me,” he said.

Serbia’s first task is to get a result against Romania when they meet in the Black Sea resort of Constanta on March 28th. A win would leave Antic’s men in the driving seat, while a draw is the minimum requirement to stay in contention, with only the group winners going through automatically. Antic knows only too well that Serbia’s toughest matches, including a home encounter with France and the reverse fixture against Romania, are yet to come.

Still, he believes his outfit will pass the stern test against the Romanians.

“This match is a chance for Romania too to get back into the picture, but the very fact that it is a make-orbreak game for them will put them under a lot of pressure,” Antic said.

“We will change nothing in our approach, meaning that we will be looking to impose our authority and come away with all three points,” he added.

“It’s not going to be easy but what we have achieved so far gives us plenty of reasons to be optimistic.”

Serbia’s only setback so far came in a 2-1 away defeat to France, who in turn slipped up 3-1 to underdogs Austria, and then scrambled a 2-2 draw with Romania, after fighting back from an early two-goal deficit.

Antic is aware he may well have to rely on the services of fringe players in the wake of injuries and suspensions.

He singled out Manchester United winger Zoran Tosic as one of the aces

Radomir Antic (right) receives Serbia’s official team tracksuit from Serbian FA President Tomislav Karadzic. Serbia are in a good position to qualify for the World Cup finals but they still have plenty of work to do.

up his sleeve, although the diminutive forward has played hardly any first team football for the English and European champions since he joined them from Partizan Belgrade in January.

“Tosic has the option of playing for United’s reserves and it will do him a lot of good, since the Premier League is the strongest in the world,” Antic elaborated. “Having signed for United, Tosic has committed himself to playing for a club that is always aiming for silverware, meaning that

Wales Face Difficult Task in Cardiff

By Zoran Milosavljevic Reporting from Belgrade

I

t’s been 26 years since Wales have beaten Ireland by 13 points or more and they will need to do just that at the Millennium stadium in Cardiff, if they are to win their second successive Six Nations title when the tournament reaches its climax this weekend.

A laboured 20-15 win over Italy in their last game left the Welsh with a nearly impossible mission, of recording their biggest win over the Irish since 1983, something Wales winger Mark Jones acknowledged would at least be a tall order. “It’s down to the last game on Saturday.

We are grateful for the win against Italy but obviously we would have liked to have done it in more stylish fashion,” he said. “But I am pleased we will go into the last game of the championship and be in with a shout.” Ireland, looking for their first Grand Slam since 1948, will

go into the game in confident mood with number eight Jamie Heaslip, hooker Jerry Flannery and scrumhalf Thomas O’Leary set to return after missing the 22-15 win over Scotland.

England, who romped to a moraleboosting 34-10 victory over France after losing to both front-runners, close their campaign with a home match against the Scots at Twickenham. Manager Martin Johnson has named an unchanged squad, despite

injury concerns over fly-half Toby Flood and flanker Joe Worsley.

Italy are at home to France in a match with little more than pride at stake, although the French will be keen to avoid what would be an embarrassing defeat against the bottom team. Belgrade’s Sport Cafe will screen all three games live and if you don’t want to miss any of the action, be sure to book a table with soccer fans also likely to flock in for an enthralling Premier League Weekend.

he constantly has to look for ways to improve in every department. I am sure he will, and Serbia will benefit from that,” he underscored.

The bulk of Serbia’s squad comprises experienced exiles, with only Red Star Belgrade midfielder Nenad Milijas and Partizan defender Ivan Obradovic able to break into the 22man squad from the local first division.

Players performing in Europe’s top leagues every week provide the quality required to see Serbia through to

the World Cup finals. Their ambition to impress in South Africa, in what would be Serbia’s first appearance in a major tournament as an independent nation, will be put to the test, as the country’s fans eagerly wait for the World Cup qualifiers to resume after the three-month long winter break.

Zoran Milosavljevic is Belgrade Insight’s sports writer and also a regional sports correspondent for Reuters.

Live Sports on TV Friday, March 20: Soccer: Champions League and UEFA Cup Draw (Eurosport 12.00 p.m.), Borussia Mgladbach v Bochum (Sport Klub 8.30 p.m.), Cortrijk v Club Brugge (Sport Klub + 8.30 p.m.), Indipendiente v Newell’s (Sport Klub + 11.00 p.m.); Ski Jumping: World Cup in Planica, Slovenia (Eurosport 3.00 p.m.); Tennis: ATP Indian Wells quarter-finals (Sport Klub 11.00 p.m.).

Saturday, March 21: Soccer: VFB Stuttgart v Hertha Berlin (Sport Klub 4.00 p.m.), Fulham v Manchester United (RTS 2 at 4.00 p.m.), Borussia Dortmund v Werder Bremen (Sport Klub + 4.30 p.m.), Catania v Lazio (Sport Klub 6.00 p.m.), Sturm Graz v Mattersburg (Sport Klub + 6.00 p.m.), Newcastle v Arsenal (RTS 2 at 6.30 p.m.), Villarreal v Atheltic Bilbao (FOX Serbia 8.00 p.m.), Anderlecht v Germinal (Sport Klub + 8.00 p.m.), Roma v Juventus (OBN 8.30 p.m.), Argentinos Juniors v Gimnasia Jujuj (Sport Klub + 10.30 p.m.), Sevilla v Valladolid (FOX Serbia Sunday 00.30 a.m. delayed); Tennis: ATP Indian Wells semi-finals (RTS 2 and Sport Klub 9.00 p.m.); Ski Jumping: World Cup in Plani-

ca, Slovenia (Eurosport 10.00 a.m.); Handball: Euro 2010 qualifier – Croatia v Greece (HRT 2 at 8.00 p.m.)

Sunday, March 22: Basketball: Spanish League – Estudiantes v Barcelona (Sport Klub 12.30 p.m.), NBA Regular Season – Detroit Pistons v Miami Heat (OBN at midnight); Tennis: ATP Indian Wells final (RTS 2 and Sport Klub 10.00 p.m.); Ski Jumping: World Cup in Planica, Slovenia (Eurosport 10.15 a.m.); Handball: Euro 2010 qualifier – Serbia v Bosnia (RTS 2 at 7.00 p.m.); Soccer: Zenit St. Petersburg v Saturn Ramenskoye (Sport Klub + 12.00 p.m.), Rad Belgrade v Red Star Belgrade (RTS 2 at 1.30 p.m.), Inter Milan v Reggina (OBN 3.00 p.m.), Various Italian League Matches (Sport Klub 3.00 p.m.), Schalke v Hamburg (Sport Klub 5.00 p.m.), Lyon v Sochaux (Sport Klub + 5.00 p.m.), Spanish League Match (Kosava 5.00 p.m.), Barcelona v Malaga (FOX Serbia 7.00 p.m.), Hajduk Split v NK Zagreb (HRT 2 at 8.10 p.m.), Spanish League Match (Kosava 9.00 p.m.), Toulouse v PSG (Sport Klub + 9.00 p.m.), Colon v San Lorenzo (Sport Klub + 11.30 p.m.).

directory

Friday, Mar. 27 - Thursday, Apr. 02, 2009 Accounting & Auditing BDO BC Excell, Knez Mihailova 10, 011 3281299.

ConsulTeam, Prote Mateje 52, 011 3086180.

Deloitte, Kralja Milana 16, 011 3612524.

Ernst & Young, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 115d, 011 2095700.

KPMG, Studentski trg 4, 011 3282892.

Pricewater House Coopers, Omladinskih brigada 88a, 011 3302100.

SEECAP, Marsala Birjuzova 22, 011 3283100.

Aikido Real Aikido World Centre, Slavujev venac 1, 011 3089199 Ballet classes Orhestra Ballet Studio, Cirila i Metodija 2a, 011 2403443.

Majdan Children’s Cultural Centre, Kozjacka 3-5, 011 3692645.

Bookshops Apropo, Cara Lazara 10, 011 2625839, 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Closed Sun. IPS-Akademija, Knez Mihailova 35, 011 2636514, 09:00 - 23:00.

Mamut, corner of Sremska and Knez Mihailova, 011 2639060, 09:00- 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.

Bowling Colosseum, Dobanovacka 56 (Zemun), 011 3165403, 11:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00.

First bowling, Gradski Park u Zemunu, 011 3771612, 11:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.

Kolosej, Jurija Gagarina 16 (Delta City), 0113129944, 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00.

Business connections Belgrade Stock Exchange, Omladinskih brigada 1, 011 3117297, www. belex.co.yu.

Business Registration Agency C-2,

Trg Nikole Pasica 5, 011 3331400, www.apr.sr.gov.yu.

Chamber of Commerce of Belgrade, Kneza Milosa 12, 011 2641335, www. kombeg.org.yu.

Ministry of Economy and Regional Development, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 15, 011 3617583, www.merr. sr.gov.yu.

Ministry of Trade and Services, Nemanjina 22-26, 011 3610579.

Privatization Agency, Terazije 23, 011 3020800, www.priv.yu.

Serbian Chamber of Commerce and Industry, Resavska 13-15, 011 3300900, pks.komora.net.

SIEPA - Investment and Export Promotion Agency, Vlajkoviceva 3, 011 3398550.

Zvezda City Oaza, Ada Ciganlija, 011 3554652, 07:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:30.

Children’s playrooms

Golf

Extreme Kids, Cvijiceva 1, 011 2764335.

Puf-Puf, Bulevar Mihaila Pupina 165a, 011 3111793.

Golf Klub Beograd, Ada Ciganlija, 011 3056837.

Belgrade Arena, Bulevar Arsenija Carnojevica 58, 011 220 22 22, www. arenabeograd.com.

Consulting CES Mecon, Danijelova 12-16, 011 3090800, www.cesmecon.com.

Dekleva & Partners Ltd., Hilandarska 23, 011 3033649, www.dekleva1.com.

EKI Investment, Kralja Milana 16, 011 3613164, www.eki-investment.com.

Dentists (on duty 24 hours) Stari Grad, Obilicev Venac 30, 011 2635236.

Vracar, Kneginje Zorke 15, 011 2441413.

Dry cleaners Cleaning Servis, Palmoticeva 10, 011 3233206.

Pop’s, Mercator Shopping Centre, Bulevar Umetnosti 4, 011 3130251.

Fitness Clubs Extreme Gym, Cvijiceva 1, 011 2764335, 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.

Power Gym, Steve Todorovica 32, 011 3545935, 09:00 - 22:00.

Wellness Centar, Kraljice Natalije 3840, 011 2686268, 07:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.

Gifts & Souvenirs Adore, New Millennium Shopping Centre, entrance from Knez Mihailova 21, Delta City 011 2625056, 10:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00, closed Sun. Beoizlog, Trg Republike 5, 011 3281859, 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 15:00, closed Sun. Singidunum, Terazije 42, 011 2643158, 09:00 - 21:00, closed Sun. Zdravo-Zivo, Nusiceva 3, 063 8785988, 12:00 - 16:00, closed Sun. www.serbiasouvenirs.com

Health Anlave CD, Vase Pelagica 68, 011 3175929, www.anlave.co.yu.

Bel Medic General Hospital, Koste Jovanovica 87, 011 3091000, www. belmedic.com.

Bel Medic Outpatient Clinic, Viktora Igoa 1, 011 3091000, www.belmedic. com.

MEDIX, Novopazarska 30, 011 3085805, www.medix.co.yu.

Horse riding Aleksa Dundic Riding Club, Belgrade Hippodrome, Pastroviceva 2, 011 3541584.

International schools Anglo-American School, Velisava Vulovica 47, 011 3675777.

Britannica International School, Uzicka 21a, 011 3671557.

British International School, Svetozara Radojcica 4, 011 3467000.

Chartwell International School, Teodora Drajzera 38, 011 3675340.

Ecole Francaise de Belgrade, Kablarska 35, 011 3691762.

Deutsche Schule Belgrad, Sanje Zivanovic 10, 011 3693135.

International Nursery School, Nake Spasic 4, 011 2667130.

International School of Belgrade, Temisvarska 19, 011 2069999.

Kindergartens Sunasce, Admirala Geprata 8a ulaz 5/1, 011 3617013.

Marry Poppins, Kursulina 37, 011 2433059.

Lawyers Baklaja Igric Mujezinovic in Association with Clyde & Co, Gospodar Jevremova 47, 011 303 8822 Harrison Solicitors, Terazije 34, 011 3615918.

Law Office, Takovska 13, 011 3227133, 063 383116, www.businesslawserbia.com.

Money transfer Western Union, Kosovska 1, 011 3300300.

Open Markets Bajlonijeva Pijaca, Dzordza Vasingtona bb, 011 3223472, 07:00 - 16:00 Blok 44, Jurija Gagarina bb, 011 2158232, 07:00 - 16:00 Kalenic Pijaca, Maksima Gorkog bb, 011 2450350, 07:00 - 16:00 Zeleni venac, Jug Bogdanova bb, 011 2629328, 07:00 - 16:00 Opticians Diopta, Kralja Milana 4, 011 2687539.

La Gatta, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 43, 011 3244914.

M&M optic, Jurija Gagarina 153/18, Novi Beograd, 011 1760772.

Pharmacies (on duty 24 hours) Aqua Pharm 2, Corner of Kneza Milosa and Visegradska Streets, 011 3610171.

Bogdan Vujosevic, Goce Delceva 30, 011 2601887.

Miroslav Trajkovic, Pozeska 87, 011 3058482.

Prvi Maj, Kralja Milana 9, 011 3241349.

15

Sveti Sava, Nemanjina 2, 011 2643170.

Zemun, Glavna 34, 011 2618582.

Photo service Color Foto, Svetogorska 4, 011 3245982.

Foto Studio 212, Cvijiceva 63, 011 3374015.

Models, Svetog Save 16-18, 011 3449608.

Real estate Eurodiplomatic, Dravska 18, 011 3086878.

Mentor, Milesevska 2, 011 3089080.

Slavija rent, Beogradska 33, 011 3341281.

Shoe repairS Sasa M, Kosovska 35, 011 3227238.

Air Zak, Kralja Aleksandra 254/a, 011 2413283.

Spa & Beauty Salons Jai Thai, Vase Pelagica 48, 011 3699193.

Spa Centar, Strahinjica Bana 5, 011 3285408.

St Angelina, Karnegijeva 3, 011 3232058.

Sun Beauty Center, Strahinica Bana 29, 011 2182090.

Zorica, Dobracina 33, 011 3285922.

TAXI SERVICES Beotaxi, 011 970 Beogradski taxi, 011 9801 Lux taxi, 011 3033123 NBA taxi, 011 3185777 Pink taxi, 011 9803 Translators Association of Technical and Scientific Translators of Serbia, Kicevska 9, 011 2442729.

Belgrade Translation Center, Dobracina 50, 011 3287388.

Center Lomonosov, Hilandarska 23, 011 3343184.

16

advert

Friday, Mar. 27 - Thursday, Apr. 02, 2009