SUMMER 2018 #07
€4.75 £3.35
FASHION
TRAVEL
ARTS
LIFESTYLE
’80s Style Revival • Calais Museum of Lace and Fashion
Galway, Capital of Culture 2020 • Island Paradise – Santorini
Frida Kahlo at the V&A • Circus250: Art of the Show
Bathroom Design Tips • Goal Setting for Success
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Welcome to Anthology Summer Issue 2018
W
e invite you to step inside the pages of this brand new issue of Anthology, which showcases fine interiors, exciting travel destinations, the latest in fashion and beauty and the best in arts and culture. This issue has a strong focus on fashion, from the much-anticipated Frida Kahlo exhibition at the V&A in London, an extraordinary display of personal clothing belonging to the iconic Mexican artist, to Irish designer Niamh O’Neill’s summer collection, a spectacular fusion of energetic colour, style and elegance. We visit the Museum of Lace and Fashion in Calais for Haute Dentelle, an exhibition highlighting the importance of traditional, luxurious lace in contemporary fashion design, and London’s Fashion and Textile Museum which is hosting a retrospective devoted to the London-based
Irish designer Orla Kiely, known for her unique retro patterns and prints. Our travel features take you to the eclectic county of Galway on Ireland’s west coast, and to the romantic Greek island of Santorini, while our interiors section focuses on bathroom design. We are also delighted to introduce Waterford Crystal’s collaboration with noted international floral designer, Jeff Leatham, whose new collection was recently launched at the magnificent Waterford Castle. Wherever you’re reading Anthology this summer – relaxing in the park, swaying in a hammock at your dream holiday destination, or snuggled up in the comfort of your own home – thank you for spending time with us. Edel edel@anthology-magazine.com
ANTHOLOGY PUBLISHING Limerick, Ireland EDITOR Edel Cassidy ART EDITOR Ros Woodham DESIGNER Lynne Clark COPY-EDITOR Averill Buchanan CONTRIBUTORS Orna O’Reilly Weber, Jeannie Croucher, Tom Weber, Róisín Cassidy, Louise Higgins, Dolores O’Donoghue, Patrick Jordan, Renate Quigley ADVERTISING advertising@anthology-magazine.com Printed by Warners Midland plc Distributed by EMNews
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ON THE COVER Irish designer Niamh O’Neill creates clothes that are feminine, sophisticated, elegant and refined, aimed at today’s busy woman who desires easy glamour and comfort. Niamh’s recent colourful collection was shot on location in Cape Town, South Africa, by Anita Sadowska and is a fine example of photography that traverses the fine line between art and commerce (p. 62).
SUBMISSIONS Anthology welcomes submissions – ideas, musings or long-form narrative – and is keen to publish serious reportage. All we ask is that the pieces are previously unpublished. Pitches to: info@anthology-magazine.com PHOTOGRAPHY From styled fashion shoots and portraiture to architecture, high-quality photography is what Anthology aims to bring to every issue. We are happy to view work. Link or PDF to: info@anthology-magazine.com SUBSCRIPTIONS Anthology is a quarterly publication with a focus on beautiful features and imagery from Ireland and around the world. Subscribe to avail of delivery directly to your door. Email: info@anthology-magazine.com ISSN: 2009-9150
The publisher accepts no responsibility for any of the views expressed or claims made by contributors or advertisers. While every care is taken to ensure accuracy of information contained in Anthology, we do not accept responsibility for any errors or matters arising from same. No part of this publication may be used or reproduced without written permission from the publishers.
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contents
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TRAVEL Santorini – Island Paradise
18
TRAVEL Castles in the Air
28
TRAVEL Galway: Capital of Culture 2020
38
INTERIORS Bathroom Bliss
46
ART & DESIGN Crystal Gazing in Waterford
52
PORTRAIT Carol Cronin: Seascapes
56
ART Frida Kahlo at the V&A
62
FASHION Niamh O’Neill
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FASHION Orla Kiely: A Life in Pattern
70
FASHION Museum of Lace and Fashion Calais
78
FASHION ‘80s Style Revival
86
ART Merrion Square Open-Air Art
90
FASHION D&G Launch Devotion Bag
92
HEALTH Goal Setting for Success
94
BEAUTY Best Moisturisers with SPF
96
ART Circus250: Art of the Show
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SANTORINI
A visit to the island paradise that emerged from a volcanic inferno WORDS AND PHOTOS P ATRI CK JORDAN
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(Above) Greek Orthodox church and bell tower in Pyrgos; (Below) The town of Oia from the water.
I
was initially rather sceptical about visiting Santorini on the first leg of our honeymoon. I had imagined an island stuck in the 1980s with clichéd, white linen-clad couples
walking hand in hand along sunset beaches. However, my preconceptions were quickly revised once we arrived on this island paradise. There’s a very good reason why Santorini is popular with honeymooners: it is genuinely a really magical place. The first thing we noticed, and it’s pretty hard to miss, is the unusual shape of the island. Located in the Aegean Sea, it’s a crescent shape known as a caldera. In ancient times it was just another volcanic island but an enormous volcanic eruption about 3,600 years ago resulted in the centre of the island collapsing, leaving only the outer rim above water. For me, this catastrophic natural disaster not only gives the island its physical shape but also imbues it with an eerie sense of the mythical power of the divine deities worshipped by the local people. Some people even believe that the sunken island was the event that inspired the myth of Atlantis, the
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(Left) Boating on the caldera; (Right) Little winding streets and arches of the town of Pyrgos.
city that famously disappeared under the sea. As a couple who love archaeology and history, and with just three days on the island, we were keen to visit the ancient site of Akrotiri. This ancient city flourished between 3000 and 2000 BC and was remarkably sophisticated with, amongst other things, both hot and cold running water in the houses! I found this place fascinating and a great introduction to the early civilisations that lived on the island. The caldera makes for amazing boating and swimming opportunities, and on our second day we went on a fabulous catamaran tour of the island with stop-offs at specific spots for well-needed dips in the sea. One of the more interesting parts of this excursion was to swim in the hot springs on the small inlet of Palea Kameni. Due to volcanic activity below ground, the springs are always a respectable 30–35°C and apparently good for the skin too. Our final day was spent hiking from Imerovigli to the town of Oia with it’s whitewashed houses. Perched on the cliffside
‘In ancient times it was just another volcanic island but an enormous volcanic eruption about 3,600 years ago resulted in the centre of the island collapsing’
and surrounded by clear blue skies and sea, there’s a reason why this little town is popular with tourists – it really is pretty spectacular. Famous for its views of the sunset, it also has steep and seemingly
never-ending winding steps down to the harbour where we sampled some great seafood. Luckily for us there was a donkey service back up the steps, otherwise we would probably still be there! All good things must come to an end and suddenly the whole dream was over as we waited at the port, ready to depart. But Santorini is one of those places that stays with you, and we’re looking forward to going back. ANTHOLOGY SUMMER 2018 15
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(Left) Sunset over the town of Pyrgos; (Right) The famous winding steps from the fishing port of Amoudi Bay to the town of Oia.
Kapari Natural Resort While on Santorini, we were lucky enough to stay at the stunning Kapari Natural Resort. It’s located on the site of the Venetian castle Skaros, an observatory destroyed by an earthquake in 1817. Our room, like all the others, was created out of the 300-year-old cliffside cave dwellings and they really are as magnificent as they sound. It fronted on to a small but perfectly formed infinity pool with breathtaking views across the caldera. The local wine and food, the kind and friendly staff, and the stunning views of the sunset and distant tiny cruise liners gliding across the caldera at night are all memories that we won’t forget.
(Left) Looking onto the caldera from the infinity pool of the Kapari Natural Resort; (Right) Welcome fruit and wine at the Kapari Natural Resort. 16 SUMMER 2018 ANTHOLOGY
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Castles in the air
Exploring breathtaking palaces and fortresses from a bygone world WORDS DOLORE S O’ DONOGHUE
F
olklore and fairy-tales allow us to explore to the furthest reaches of our imaginations with some of the most romantic and delightful stories ever told. However, at the core of these wonderful stories there is always a touch of reality, whether it is in the moral of the story or the trials and triumphs of the characters or the majestic castles with dreamy towers, lofty spires and high walls.
Throughout the Middle Ages, European nobility constructed enormous, ostentatious fortified structures all over the continent. For approximately 900 years, the rich and paranoid built castles as places to provide them with protection, as homes for high living and as a base to raid their neighbours. Travel back in time and discover some of these unique and magnificent castles with wonderful stories about their kings, queens, wars and nations.
Eltz Castle Wierschem, Germany
Tucked into the hills above the Moselle River, Eltz Castle is one of the most romantic medieval castles in Germany. It was built to protect trade routes in the twelfth century. It was originally split into three parts and occupied by three branches of the same family. In 1815 the whole castle came into the possession of one branch of the family, whose descendants still live in private quarters within the castle; other sections are open to the public. The current owner is Dr Karl Graf zu Eltz, whose family has owned the castle for over eight and a half centuries. Noted for its treasury of money, the castle is awash with gold, silver and porcelain artefacts fit for nobility. From 1965 to 1992, an engraving of Eltz Castle was used on the German 500 Deutschmark note.
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Bojnice Castle Bojnice, Slovakia
Bojnice Castle dates back to 1113. The original fortress was wooden with thick walls and a moat, but it was gradually rebuilt in stone. In the fifteenth century it was owned by King Matthias Corvinus; in the sixteenth century it became the seat of local nobility and underwent major reconstruction to become a Renaissance castle. It then came into the ownership of the Pálffys, a Hungarian noble family. Count Ján Pálffy (1829– 1908), the last noble owner of the castle, renovated it in the style of the French castles of the Loire valley. After his death, his heirs sold it to Czech entrepreneur Jan Antonín Baťa, but shortly afterwards it was confiscated by the Czechoslovak government. Bojnice Castle is now part of the Slovak National Museum.
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Bran Castle Brașov, Romania
It is best known as ‘Dracula’s Castle’, even though Vlad Tepes, the putative inspiration for Dracula, never lived there. The castle still attracts many literature fans and curious visitors from all over the world. First used in 1378 in defence against the Ottoman Empire, it later became a customs post on the mountain pass between Transylvania and Wallachia. In 1920, the castle became a royal residence and was the favourite retreat of Queen Marie, who ordered extensive renovations. It was inherited by her daughter, Princess Ileana, who ran a hospital there during World War II, but it was later seized by the communist regime, which expelled the royal family in 1948. In 2005, the Romanian government passed a law allowing restitution claims on properties illegally expropriated, and ownership was passed to Dominic von Habsburg, the son of Princess Ileana.
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Le Mont Saint-Michel Normandy, France
Not actually a castle, but nonetheless a location where romance and magic abound. An enchanting island topped by a gravity-defying medieval monastery, Le Mont-Saint-Michel has been a pilgrimage destination for centuries. The iconic abbey is also the starting point for the Mont-Saint-Michel Way route on the Camino de Santiago. The original site was founded by an Irish hermit, but it was in the eighth century that the gothic-style Benedictine abbey was built. During the Reformation the abbey was closed and converted into a prison, and all religious practices were banned. Influential figures, including Victor Hugo, launched a campaign to restore what was seen as a national architectural treasure. The prison was closed in 1863 and the mount declared a historic monument in 1874. In 1966, friars and sisters from Les FraternitÊs Monastiques de JÊrusalem moved back to the island. Approximately 2.5 million people visit annually.
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Hohenwerfen Castle Werfen, Austria
Surrounded by the Berchtesgaden Alps, Hohenwerfen Castle sits atop a limestone rock more than 2,000 feet above sea level. It was built as a fortress in 1077 by Archbishop Gebhard of Salzburg, and over the years it has been extensively developed. It was only in the fifteenth century that Hohenwerfen reached its current scale. In the early 1500s rioting miners and farmers, dissatisfied with social conditions, approached Salzburg. Hohenwerfen stood between them and the city, so they burned most of the castle to the ground. Those who rioted were forced to help rebuild it in the 1560s. It was later used as a prison, and as a military fortress during the Nazi era. Currently, the castle functions as a museum. It has featured in many movies, including The Sound of Music, where it can be seen in the background of the ‘Do-Re-Mi’ picnic scene.
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Alcรกzar of Segovia Segovia, Spain
The alcรกzar was originally built as a fortress during the Roman era but has served as a royal palace, a state prison and a military academy. It is now a breathtaking museum. Around 1120, Alfonso VIII and his wife, Eleanor of England, made this alcรกzar their principal residence, and much work was carried out to erect the stone fortification that we see today. It was the location for the crowning of Queen Isabella I in 1474.
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Loreto Island
Lake Iseo, Province of Brescia, Italy The decadent castle island of Loreto, seemingly floating in Lombardy’s Lake Iseo, had humble beginnings. It started in the fifth century as a monastery and at the end of the fifteenth century a cloister was built for the Sisters of Santa Chiara (Order of Poor Clares), a monastic religious order for women in the Franciscan tradition. The Order left the island in 1580. Loreto island changed owners several times, but then in 1900 it was purchased by a Royal Navy captain, Vincenzo Richeri. In 1910 he built a neo-gothic castle on the island, around which he created a garden full of conifers, a small port and two light towers. It is now privately owned and cannot be visited – just admired from the water.
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Pena Palace Sintra, Portugal
The palace started as a pilgrimage site in the Middle Ages when a chapel dedicated to Our Lady of Pena was built. In 1503, King Manuel I constructed a monastery on the site; it was donated to the Order of Saint Jerome. The monastery fell into ruin following the earthquake of 1755. The present-day palace was commissioned in 1838 by King Consort Ferdinand II, who set about restoring the ruins and converting it into a new summer residence for the royal family. A German amateur architect named Von Eschwege created a fascinating mixture of revival styles, with neo-Manueline, Oriental, Renaissance and even Egyptian motifs. The last queen of Portugal, Queen Amélia, spent her last night at the palace before leaving the country in exile. In 1910 it became a national museum.
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GALWAY:
European Capital of Culture 2020
A gathering place for lovers of food, music, history, art and culture
WORDS ORNA O’ RE I LLY WE B E R PHOTOS ORNA O’ RE I LLY WE B E R, TOM WE B E R
F
or thirteen years, until 2013, I lived
I meandered along the westerly shore of
in Galway. My work as an interior
Lough Mask and stopped to admire the
designer took me up and down
multitude of islands dotting Lough Corrib.
the west coast of Ireland and I made my
I even had a client on the Aran Islands, and
home in Kinvara, that pretty village on the
often took the tiny plane from Inverin to Kil-
southern shores of Galway Bay.
ronan, a fifteen-minute hop across the bay.
area dotted with trees, recently renovat-
I also went by ferry to Inisheer, beneath the
ed, is Galway’s beating heart. In December
Galway very well indeed. It’s a large county
Cliffs of Moher, and out past the shipwreck
it hosts a fabulous outdoor Christmas
in the province of Connaught, full of lakes
made famous by Father Ted.
market, with the emphasis on food. Think
During my time there I got to know
and fabulous scenery, and it has to be the friendliest place on earth. While visiting my clients I travelled north
Galway City The jewel in the crown is, of course, the
Dunguaire Castle
of sizzling sausages on a multitude of grills plus hot, mulled wine scented with cinnamon and you get the picture. The city is full of traditional pubs, cafes,
to Dunmore and Glenamaddy and south
beautiful city of Galway, City of Tribes,
past Gort. I drove east along the pastoral
nestling in a natural harbour in Galway Bay,
great restaurants and art galleries. The
shores of Lough Derg and west through the
where the River Corrib flows into the At-
pedestrian areas are lively and lined with
wilds of Connemara, dodging sheep on the
lantic Ocean. It will be the European Capi-
great shops, many of them tourist-orient-
narrow, switchback roads, to far flung towns
tal of Culture in 2020. This will see the city
ed, others well-known fashion chains. As
and coastal villages like Clifden, Ballycon-
hosting major cultural events throughout
you stroll down William Street and the apt-
neely and Roundstone. I drove through the
the year. In fact, Galway City is currently
ly named Shop Street to Quay Street and
towering Maam Valley to Killary Harbour
ranked as the Number One Friendliest City
the banks of the River Corrib and beyond,
and the village of Leenane, where I often
in the World by Travel and Leisure.
you will be serenaded by buskers and hear
pulled over at lunchtime for a plate of deli-
The main focus in Galway City centre
live music wherever you turn. Galway is
cious smoked salmon paté and thick, warm,
is Eyre Square, also known as John F.
full of winding lanes, and the medieval city
brown soda bread at a local pub. From there
Kennedy Memorial Park. The wide grassy
walls can be glimpsed in the Latin Quarter.
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Events in Galway Galway International Arts Festival is held annually over the last two weeks of July. This famous event is a huge cultural extravaganza for artists, musicians, writers and actors. If you enjoy theatre, spectacular shows, music, opera, performance art, dance and street theatre, this is the event for you. Galway Film Fleadh is an Academy Award-qualifying international film festival that attracts a diversity of filmmaking from around the world of all generations and cultural backgrounds. Considered Ireland’s leading film festival, the event is held over six days during the second week in July in Galway City. Galway Races take place in Ballybrit Racecourse, just outside Galway City. This fun event is held each year for a week at the end of July. Called the Summer Festival, the atmosphere is always electric, especially on Ladies Day, which sees a colourful, bobbing mass of entertaining headgear and glamorous dresses. The Galway Oyster and Seafood Festival has taken place on the last weekend of September for the past sixty four years. Whether or not you like oysters, the tasting events in many restaurants and the live entertainment is a brilliant way to spend a weekend. Low tide on Galway Bay
The Clarinbridge Oyster Festival, which takes place in early October, is also celebrating its sixty-fourth anniversary in 2018. The small village of Clarinbridge is alive with party goers for this fun festival.
Galway is the only medieval city in the west of Ireland. Back in the middle ages it traded with Spain and France. Even Christopher Columbus visited it in 1477 on one of his voyages of adventure and discovery. Badly hit by the Irish famine in the 1840s, when so many rural dwellers emigrated, the county’s population declined quite considerably. However, the city’s prosperity grew once more when Galway University was founded in 1845 and the railway arrived in 1850.
The Spanish connection
Gratinated Galway oysters
In 1588 several ships belonging to the Spanish Armada sank off the west coast Galway City
of Ireland. They had been driven off
Connemara coast
The Tribes The city is known as the City of Tribes because between the thirteenth and nineteenth centuries, fourteen families controlled the politics, business and social life of the city. Nowadays, the fourteen tribes are represented by fourteen flags in Eyre Square, sporting the colours and coats of arms of the families, while several of the many roundabouts on the city’s ring road are named after them. ANTHOLOGY SUMMER 2018 29
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course by storms as they headed home
to protect the quays, where the fish mar-
to Spain after the Battle of Gravelines
ket once thrived in the area now known
against the French near Calais. Up to
as Spanish Parade. Then in the eighteenth
6,000 Spanish sailors died as a result.
century the existing arches were created
One of these ships landed at Barna,
in this part of the city wall to allow access
just outside Galway City, and another at
to the newly constructed Long Walk from
Carna in Connemara.
the old city. Eyre Arch was renamed the
The city walls were extended in 1584
Spanish Arch at some point.
Lough Corrib
Kylemore Abbey
Places to visit in the City Galway City Museum was housed in the Spanish Arch until 2006, when it moved to a brand new building located close by. Many events are held there, including talks and workshops. The Cathedral of Our Lady Assumed into Heaven and St Nicholas is the main Roman Catholic cathedral in the area and is a large and impressive Renaissance-style building built in the mid-twentieth century. The Atlantaquaria is an entertaining aquarium in Salthill and well worth a
Galway hookers
visit for the children to get up close and personal with some sharks and
In 1755, there was a massive earthquake
stingrays – through glass, of course.
off Portugal, causing a tsunami that hit
Salthill seafront is an excellent place
Lisbon hard and killed almost 50,000
to walk along the long promenade
people. The tsunami was so powerful that
and breathe in the healthy Atlantic air.
it entered Galway Bay and badly damaged
Then, as you relax with a pint of
the Spanish Arch. It also cleaved part of
Guinness, you can watch the ‘sun go
the coastline from the southern shore of
down on Galway Bay.’
Galway Bay, creating a small island called Quiet Man bridge
Aughinish on which I lived for five years.
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Connemara
as there is plenty of hiking, mountain
peculiar to Galway Bay and are called
Of course, the highlight of any visit to
climbing, fishing, pony riding and cycling
Galway hookers. They are traditional
Galway must include a trip to Connema-
available for all.
fishing and transport boats that worked
ra. This is a place of true natural beauty.
mainly along the Connemara coast. The
When the sky is blue and the myriad lakes
The islands
reflect its colour, it is difficult to describe
Then there are the islands. They’re sprin-
being soaked in a solution made from
its breathtaking magnificence. Nature at its
kled around the wild Atlantic coastline.
tree bark, which protects them from the
best. Peat bogs, lakes and mountains, plus
Some are inhabited and others deserted
elements. Made from native hardwoods
a lot of sheep, welcome you to this beau-
but they’re all remote and unspoiled. From
such as white oak and beech, the hooker
tiful part of Ireland. Some of the prettiest
the Aran Islands to Inishbofin and beyond,
has clean lines and is built to handle the
villages and small towns in this area are
these islands are well worth a visit. Ferries
rough waters off Connemara. However,
Roundstone, Clifden and Ballyconneely.
leave from Inverin and Doolin daily.
most of them are now used for leisure
Connemara National Park has many
South of Galway Bay is the lovely little
sails acquire this unusual colour from
sailing and for trips along the coast. If you’re interested in seeing the
prehistoric megalithic tombs, and you
fishing village of Kinvara, where I used
can see a herd of Connemara ponies in
to live and still miss greatly. It’s noted for
Galway hookers up close and personal,
the wild. Go to a country pub, get the
the iconic Dunguaire Castle, allegedly
there is an annual festival in mid-August.
bartender to pull you a pint of creamy
the most photographed castle in Ireland.
Called Cruinniú na mBád, this ‘gathering
Guinness and relax with the locals.
This small castle or tower house has
of the boats’ takes place in Kinvara on the
been wonderfully restored and is open
southern shores of the bay. Connemara
Connemara. How about the Connemara
to visitors during the summer. They also
is a large producer of turf, the traditional
Pony Show in Clifden every August, a
have medieval-style banquets, which are
form of heating on open fires in Ireland.
fun way to spend a day if you are in the
very popular with tourists.
The Galway hookers used to bring turf
There’s always something going on in
area. And the Clifden Arts Festival is held every September. Connemara is the perfect place for families and lovers of the great outdoors,
The Galway hookers
across the bay to Kinvara, returning with grain and other goods. Cruinniú na mBád
If you’re wondering about those sailboats
is a celebration of this trade between
with dark rust-coloured sails, these are
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Sue Donnellan Glass Artisan
L
ocated in the beautiful Spiddal Craft Village on the shores of Galway Bay, Glass Craft is the place to find the perfect stained-glass gift. From suncatchers and personalised fairy doors to bespoke candle holders and glass lamps, there is a dazzling assortment of unique pieces to choose from. Stained glass and kiln-fused glass artist Sue Donnellan is a native of Dublin, but the western shores, in particular Connemara with its raw magical beauty, has captured her heart and inspires her work. She enjoys exploring the gentle play of light when cast through stained glass. Find the perfect piece to accentuate your décor and add a conversation piece to your room, or choose from a wonderful selection of unique kiln-fused dichroic jewellery. Whether visiting the online store at www.glasscraft.ie or popping in to the workshop at Spiddal, a warm welcome awaits you!
Units 11 & 12, Spiddal Craft Village, Co. Galway T: +353 86 8067352 E: info@glasscraft.ie
Cathal O’Malley T
he changing light over the beautiful landscape of Connemara is what inspires Cathal O’Malley to paint full-time. Connemara is home to Cathal, and his love for its rugged beauty can be seen in his work, from rocky shores to cloud-covered mountains. Painting in both oils and acrylics, his work depicts the beauty of nature, the sunlight, the familiar sheep grazing the land and the breathtaking landscapes devoid of human touch. He has a special affinity with the sea. His atmospheric seascapes capture how the sea and sky interact, and the movement, light and drama of the sea. Cathal is self-taught; among his many notable awards are: winner of the National Gallery Poster Competition 1982 and regional winner of Live at Three Art Competition in 1993. He has exhibited as far away as Taipei in Taiwan, the MAD Gallery in Milan and the Lorica Artworks in Massachusetts. He has many collectors worldwide, especially those who have a love of Ireland.
T: +353 86 0792191 E: cathalomalley4@eircom.net www.cathalomalley.com www.facebook.com/cathal.omalley1
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ART
+
DESIGN
Elaine Conneely Connemara Oil Paintings
E
laine comes from the small town of Cutchogue on Long Island, New York, where her family home sat on the edge of a creek that led out to Peconic Bay. So even before she moved to the mystical and very beautiful coast of Connemara, sailing, boating and fishing were strongly present in her life. Having graduated with a Degree in Art Education from Skidmore College in New York, Elaine pursued a Masters in Art Education at Boston University. It was while she was in Boston that she met and fell in love with a Galway man, whom she married. The couple had two children, and soon after they were born the whole family moved to Ireland. Having had the seaside as a constant companion throughout her life, Elaine loves to paint seascapes, and can perfectly capture the essence of the ocean. She also paints beautiful landscapes and loves to paint the many animals that roam freely in Connemara – cows, horses, donkeys. Another speciality is her popular portraits, which are full of character and emotion. Elaine puts her training in art education to good use as she runs classes for children and adults at her studio in Inverin. Elaine’s work has been exhibited at the Galway Museum, the Connemara Coast Hotel and An Crúiscín Lán Hotel in Spiddal. Her portraits of local musicians are currently on display in Giblins Restaurant in Spiddal and at the post office in Inverin.
‘My paintings are about light and love; they are about me learning that each moment of every day is sacred and precious.’
Private commissions are welcome. Elaine can be contacted at: T: +353 91 593098 or +353 87 293 8977 I E: elaineconneely@eircom.net I www.connemaraoilpaintings.com
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Creaforge
Garret Herbert: Artist Blacksmith
H
aving studied blacksmithing at the Ferdinand Fillod School of metal arts in France, where he acquired a Certificate of Professional Aptitude (CAP), Garret set up his forge/studio in Ballyglunin, Co. Galway. Working with hot steel enables him to be more creative in shaping and forming by hammer and hand, in addition to using modern machinery such as power hammers. ‘It still amazes me how such a hard cold material can be manipulated and shaped when heated to temperatures exceeding 1000 degrees,’ says Garret. He makes a variety of products for both inside and outside the home, from larger pieces like garden sculptures, bird baths and gates to interior work such as lighting, furniture, mirrors, fire sets and accessories. He is happy to accept commissions, and if a client has a special project, Garret will take it from sketch to finished product. His work is currently on view at The Lady’s Buttery in Cong and The Cat & The Moon in Sligo, and he will have a piece exhibited in Sculpture In Context 2018 at the National Botanic Gardens, Dublin, in September. His work can also be viewed on Instagram at garret_herbert, or why not visit the workshop where he will soon be offering one- or two-day introductory courses in blacksmithing, when students will get to make their own forged item. He is currently sourcing further outlets for his work. Details will be announced on the website.
Forged gate for Tigh Neachtain’s Wine Bar, Galway
Ballynamona, Ballyglunin, Co. Galway T: 353 87 3165984 I E: garret@creaforge.com I www.creaforge.com
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ART
+
DESIGN
Deborah Joyce James Street Gallery
S
et in the beautiful seaside town of Westport, the James Street Gallery, run by artist Deborah Joyce, displays a collection of contemporary and classical art from local artists. After Deborah completed her degree in art, she took some time out to travel, and gained work experience designing high-end accessories for up-market boutiques. She then decided to follow her passion and return to painting. A native of Liverpool whose grandparents emigrated from Galway, she settled in Achill where she now lives with her husband and four children. Her painting style is a fusion of impressionist, expressionist and art nouveau, and she is strongly influenced by the romanticism of Turner. She conveys strong emotions in her paintings and tries to evoke an experience of the sublime, which she believes we should cherish as part of what makes us compassionate human beings. Her work is not limited to any one particular subject, although seascapes and landscapes are more dominant. She has completed many successful commissions and welcomes new challenges to the way she paints. Deborah’s work has been published in national and international papers, and is in many private collections all over the world. She exhibits extensively in the UK and Ireland. Her new collection, Where Time Stands Still, is currently in the James Street Gallery, Westport. Her work will be exhibited on stand 10A at Art Source, RDS in November 2018.
‘Deborah’s work jumps out at you with great drama vibrancy, and verve.’ Lucinda O’Sullivan, Irish Independent
Upper James Street, Westport I T:353 85 858 7848 E: jamesstreetgallery@gmail.com I www.deborahjoyceart.design
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Fountain of Knowledge
WORDS DOLORE S O’ DONOGHUE
‘Just like a stylish watch, a beautiful fountain pen says a lot about personal style, can put the polish on your appearance and make a statement about who you are.’
M
ade popular well over a century ago,
range of inks varying in viscosity, colour and scent
fountain pens were once much admired
all aid in individual expression and style.
for their innovation and quickly became
The fountain pen is also enjoying a comeback
the must-have gadget of the day. They were a
as a status symbol and style accessory as millen-
status symbol for executives who now had a
nials turn to handwriting in search of a digital de-
convenient portable writing device instead of
tox. Just like a stylish watch, a beautiful fountain
having to carry around quills and jars of ink. When
pen says a lot about personal style, can put the
the ballpoint was invented, it pushed the fountain
polish on your appearance and make a statement
pen to the periphery of the writing instruments
about who you are. Retailers and manufacturers
sphere, and in recent years touchscreens and key-
report an increase in sales as everyone, from
boards have made all writing instruments and the
graduates to high-powered executives, pull out a
actual art of handwriting less and less necessary.
variety of stylish and expensive fountain pens to
However, like many art forms, penmanship
put their signatures on documents.
is undergoing something of a resurgence. Who
Investing in a good fountain pen is well worth
hasn’t marvelled at the beauty of the handwrit-
the splurge. It’s a piece of precision engineering
ten word – the laying down of a line, the subtle
and design, and will serve you well for many
movements, a world of curves, twists, hooks and
years. Using a fountain pen is about making a
flourishes? There’s nothing quite like writing by
deliberate choice to buy something that you can
hand with a fountain pen. It produces a lovely
use repeatedly rather than something you use
flow of ink, which can help give handwriting an
once and lose. If you want to write casually, get a
impressive appearance. A choice of nibs that
disposable ballpoint, but if you want something
come in dozens of different shapes and sizes,
that looks stylish and is a pleasure to use, invest
from extra fine to different degrees of bold, and a
in a good fountain pen.
The Meisterstück 14K white gold nib fountain pen from the Montblanc Le Petit Prince Collection. A golden star is poised on the pen’s clip and the character of Le Petit Prince is engraved on the handcrafted gold nib, along with his friend, the fox. An elegant and luxurious writing instrument encased in a navy design and complete with quotes from the story book, inscribed around the rim of the cap. From Weir & Sons, Dublin.
36 SUMMER 2018 ANTHOLOGY
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Dermatology Recommended Cosmeceuticals Range
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World class hospitality in the heart of Connemara and the Wild Atlantic Way Ballyconneely, Clifden, Co. Galway I T: +353 95 23030 E: reservations@connemarasands-hotel.com I www.connemarasands-hotel.com
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Bathroom A relaxing, luxurious bathroom is not just an indulgence – it also adds value to your home WORDS LOUISE HIGGINS
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INTERIORS
When designing a bathroom it’s important to maximise space, storage and functionality in addition to creating a space that reflects your taste. Whether your preference is for a sleek contemporary bathroom or a luxurious spa-like feel, here are some key design considerations to create the perfect bathroom for your home.
Colour Colour and texture can be introduced in several ways, from shower panels and patterned tiles, to vanity tops and basins. Neutral spa-like bathrooms are still very popular, but there is a shift in colour towards more moody, darker bathroom schemes using deep greys and browns.
HA LO T I LE S
Tiles The choice of tiles and how they are laid offers scope for variety and experimentation. Textured tiles are popular, as are unusual shaped tiles such as chevron, hexagon, fish scales and patterned tiles. Wood effect tiles are also very popular for flooring and feature-wall tiles.
Shower Areas Large shower areas and wet rooms are growing in popularity. Following the trend for double sinks and double-ended baths, the same principle can now be applied to the shower. Individual controls and screens mean you can use just one area of a shower if you wish. However, it’s important to have an additional shower hose within your shower not only for your own personal use but also to make it easier to clean the enclosure. Storage within the shower cubicle itself is also an increasing trend as people opt for shelves built into the shower enclosure.
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Lighting There is a move away from the industrial look towards more polished dramatic pieces like decorative stunning gold sconces. Tiered pendants are another style that is gaining momentum in bathroom design.
Greenery Greenery can be easily incorporated into the existing bathroom scheme by including a few suitable plants. They’ll not only add decorative appeal but will also help to purify the air. Some plants to consider are spider plants, aloe, air plants and bamboo plants. If you don’t want the extra responsibility of caring for plants, there’s a great selection of very natural-looking artificial options.
Bathroom Technology Technology advances every year for the home owner and bathrooms are no exception. From controlled underfloor heating systems to digital shower control there are plenty of gadgets that are functional and fun to use. Saving water is a dominant feature with apps that can control the water flow and temperature. Smart showers are also available which allow you to preset to your preferred temperature and turn on your favourite tunes during shower time.
Faucets and Fixtures Black is back, with dark fixtures in a matte finish making a comeback and representing the next evolution for bathroom fixtures. They offer a stark contrast against white countertops. Brass and gold fixtures are also very popular and create a lovely contrast against the neutral grey backdrops that are also very fashionable. Warmer-coloured metals are on the rise in 2018, and there are many bronze, copper and satin nickel faucets and fixtures now available.
40 SUMMER 2018 ANTH O LO G Y
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INTERIORS
Floating Vanities Large floating vanities to increase perception of space are everywhere at the moment and create clean lines in any bathroom. Available as one large sink or a double vanity, these are perfect for couples who don’t like to share!
Accessories Underfloor heating is still very much in demand and the good news is that it can be added to just the bathroom, rather than having it throughout the house. Underfloor heating is the perfect way to transform those cold tiles, and it can be controlled by a thermostat which can be set to come on at a certain time in the morning to ensure efficient, comfortable heating underfoot.
Remember, changing your bathroom doesn’t necessarily have to involve a complete overhaul. You could consider changing your mirror, updating a faucet, changing your light fixtures or simply adding a splash of paint.
Louise Higgins, founder of Perfect Headboards and Aspire Design, is an award-winning designer and a graduate of the Interior Design Academy of Ireland. Louise is a full member of the Interiors Association and is also a member of the Crafts Council of Ireland. For further advice, contact Louise at 045-982265 or louise@aspiredesign.ie
ANTHOLOGY SUMMER 2018 41
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Sweeney Handcrafted Furniture Handcrafted in Ireland, Avant-Garde, Contemporary and Traditional Bathrooms Designs Using the specialised cabinet-making techniques that master cabinet-maker and lead designer Paul Sweeney has perfected over the years, custom pieces of furniture are designed and built for all areas of the home – including bathrooms – where the design process and quality are to exceptionally high standards. Bathroom designs are not limited to one particular style, and virtually any look can be created to complement your home, taste and personality. Sweeney’s will offer expert guidance from conception through to installation, in careful consultation with the client, to create a space to specific requirements and design taste. Larkins Cross, Barntown, Co. Wexford, Ireland I T+353 53 9108090 E: info@sweeneyofwexford.ie I www.sweeneyofwexford.ie
Bathroom Design at Mylestone Interiors, Killarney A bathroom needs to be practical, comfortable and stylish. Patrick Carmody of Mylestone Interiors, Killarney, emphasises the importance of effective use of space, customer well-being and functional design. The approach used by the design team at Mylestone Interiors is simple – match your bathroom design to your lifestyle – function and design marry very happily when you know what your requirements are. An interior design consultation can streamline the design or refurbishment process. A clear plan will utilise any budget to its maximum, allowing even the most compromised spaces to be transformed. From the outset the design team work within budget guidelines without comprising on quality. ‘Our philosophy is elegance and quality. We bring old-fashioned customer values into our business and believe we are here to enhance the design experience.’ East Avenue Road, Killarney, Co. Kerry I T: 353 64 6626331 E: info@mylestoneinteriors.ie I www.mylestoneinteriors.ie
BioBidet: Advanced Bidet Toilet Seats Bring a new level of quality, comfort and cleanliness to your bathroom at an affordable price. Replace your toilet seat with the cleaner, healthier and more eco-friendly BioBidet. Parts for installation are included and the device is easily installed. Best of all, professional customer service representatives can assist you over the phone in real time. BioBidet products do not require major plumbing work. Unlike conventional bidets, the seats and attachments work with your existing plumbing. Available from Able Plus Installations, Dublin T: 353 1 8390262 or 353 87 8079993 I E: kevin@ableplus.ie
42 SUMMER 2018 ANTH O LO G Y
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INTERIORS
Halo Tiles & Bathrooms, Wexford
The Victorian Salvage Company New and reclaimed bathrooms in Dublin’s city centre With a full traditional joinery service, the Victorian salvage company designs and makes a large range of bathroom fittings, and always has lots of great ideas for your bathroom in stock. We carry both reclaimed and new bathroom suites, and stock fittings from cast iron baths to high level cisterns, pans, sinks and taps, to mention a few. Some of these items can be very hard to source, but you’ll find everything you need here to give your bathroom a traditional edge. If we don’t have it in stock, we know where to source it, or there’s the option of having pieces custom-made. The latest in 3D-rendering software helps the designers at Victorian get the most from every design and to share these advantages with clients. The design process is never rushed and the final look is arrived at by a process of evolution. This, combined with a wealth of experience over twenty-five years, ensures there are lots of great ideas to share for your bathroom. Stocks change all the time, so drop into the bathroom showroom where a member of the team will be delighted to help you.
Halo Tiles & Bathrooms recently showcased their new collections at House 2018. The favourites were the Livorno Series, a bright, daring and versatile decorative tile that enhances a variety of spaces. Also, the new Vignoni Wood Effect Collection is one of the most authentic wood finishes available on the market – a tile that looks just like wood! The 7.5 x 40 cm natural finish is recommended for a stunning herringbone layout. Halo Tiles & Bathrooms are an Irish-owned company supplying tiles, bathroom ware and timber flooring for over forty-five years. The flagship showroom in Camolin, Wexford, is a stunning 10,000 sq ft retail space offering the very best in tile and bathroom solutions. The knowledgeable team are on hand to guide you through your selections, and the in-house bathroom designer can do a 3D drawing, showing you the best possible use of your space. It’s definitely worth a visit! Main St, Camolin, Co. Wexford T: (053) 938 3700 I E: sales@halotiles.ie I www.halotiles.ie
South Gloucester Street, Dublin 2 T: +353 1 672 7000 I E: info@victoriankitchencompany.ie www.victoriankitchencompany.ie
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Discover the benefits of a Minivator stairlift
A
ble Plus prides itself on supplying superior service and quality solutions, and installs stairlifts nationwide to help people gain access to areas in their homes and premises. With additional powered features to choose from, the lift can be tailored to meet specific needs regardless of whether your staircase is straight or goes around corners. Every stairlift track is bespoke and optimised to give the best travel possible while fitting snugly to the wall or banister. Operated from the handset, the track can be folded to eliminate trip hazards. The tracks are also designed to fit closely to the edge of the stair with minimal intrusion, leaving the stairway clear for other users. Able Plus not only offers the best value in Ireland for curved and straight stairlifts but also makes choosing a stairlift easy and fuss-free. Fully insured, C2-registered
around-the-clock support is offered, every day of the year. For the best stairlifts at the best prices call 01-8390262 or 0878079993, or email kevin@ableplus.ie for today’s discounts.
Able Plus, Broombridge Business Centre, 288 Bannow Rd, Cabra West, Dublin 7. Web: ableplus.ie
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crystal gazing
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ART
+
DE SI GN
Floral designer to the stars collaborates with Waterford Crystal to create a breathtaking new range of Ireland’s internationally renowned glassware WORDS E DE L CASSI DY PHOTOS WATE RFORD CRY STAL, DY LAN VAUGHAN P HOTOGRAP HY
Waterford Crystal collaborates with celebrity floral designer Jeff Leatham
W
aterford Crystal recently announced the launch of a new collaboration with noted international floral designer Jeff Leatham at a lavish event in Waterford Castle. Building on the designer’s
expertise with celebrity clientele and his experience as artistic director for the Four Seasons Hotel Group, Waterford X Jeff Leatham marries Leatham’s artistic eye with the Irish crystalware brand’s expertise in producing the finest quality collection of giftware, drinkware and bridal gifts. Waterford X Jeff Leatham is divided into two collections and two designs, Icon and Master Craft. Icon focuses on a simple yet chic pattern, while a limited-edition Master Craft range features a mosaic of striking olive-cut patterns. These will encompass decorative pieces such as vases, bowls, hurricanes, tea light and candle holders, alongside drinkware – champagne flutes, tumblers and hi-ball glasses. Launching in November 2018, the first range will be a timeless clear crystal, setting the stage for even bolder statement pieces to be launched in January 2019, when the same styles will be available in a striking colour palette of purple, red and black. The dining hall at Waterford Castle was resplendent with vases and flowers for the event, and in keeping with Jeff Leatham’s style the flowers were tightly bunched. Tall black calla lilies soared from the low, dense globes of perfect rosa lovelace and vanda
Celebrity floral designer Jeff Leatham
orchids, with clusters of giant hydrangea that reflected in the dark crystal. Guaranteed to make a stylish talking point, the Waterford X Jeff Leatham collection is sure to bring a sophisticated flourish to any home and arrives just in time to be part of a special year for Waterford as it celebrates its 235th anniversary. Waterford Crystal and Irish Distillers collaborate Waterford Crystal is proud to announce the launch of a unique partnership with Irish Distillers Prestige Irish whiskey brands, led by Midleton Very Rare, celebrating the very best of Irish luxury and tradition. The partnership will see the creation of bespoke barware collections and brand immersion experiences to take place at the House of Waterford and globally. The combination of the most prestigious Irish whiskey brands in the world with the finest quality glassware will create a unique drinking experience for whiskey lovers in their search for the perfect drinking ritual.
‘Tall black calla lilies soared from the low, dense globes of perfect rosa lovelace and vanda orchids’ ANTHOLOGY SUMMER 2018 47
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Waterford X Jeff Leatham launch at Waterford Castle
T
he charming Waterford Castle hosted the recent launch of the new collaboration between Waterford Crystal and noted international floral designer Jeff Leatham. The gala
dinner provided a showcase for the shimmering array of crystal, complemented by cascading blossoms. At the grand entrance to the castle, plinths with arrangements of flowers were placed on either side of the ancient oak doors like sentinels, setting the tone. The dining hall of the castle was resplendent with vases and flowers that wowed the guests. A collection of crystal vases were clustered in the centre of each large round table. The various flowers in each vase combined to make a large and abstract bouquet. The contrasting shapes, sizes and colours of flowers were enhanced by the flicker of candlelight. A rich, deep blanket of rosa lovelace petals scattered in a circle around the vases heightened the gloss of the crystal and made it appear like a shimmering illusion. The exotic and decadent displays transformed the medieval dining room and charmed the guests. Waterford Castle showcased amazing seasonal creations by their award-winning culinary team under the direction of Head Chef, Stan Cicon. Floral arrangements by Master Florist, Lamber De Bie
‘The exotic and decadent displays transformed the medieval dining room and charmed the guests. ’ 48 SUMMER 2018 ANTHOLOGY
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The Guided Factory Tour
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he iconic seahorse logo is perhaps the most recognisable among crystal lovers and collectors worldwide. I have always admired Waterford Crystal’s reputation as an elite brand, famous for its unmatched quality. However, after a recent tour
of their factory in Waterford, I have so much more appreciation for the craftsmanship and sheer hard work that goes into the manufacture of each individual piece. On the tour I discovered everything about the past and present of crystal production in Waterford, which dates back to 1783. It was also an amazing opportunity to venture behind the scenes and witness first-hand the complex manufacturing process. Waterford Crystal is one of the few companies that still practises the ancient art of mould-making, and during the tour guests visit the mould room where moulds are made from beech and pear woods, the woods best able to cope with the tremendous heat of the molten crystal. The master blowers can then be seen flawlessly shaping the molten crystal with the use of the wooden moulds and hand tools. In the blowing department glowing balls of crystal are transformed by breath into majestic shapes as they are put through the 1300-degree furnace. The next department is the hand-marking area, where the crystal is marked with a temporary geometric grid to assist the master cutter who will use an industrial diamond-tipped wheel to make incisions in regular patterns. Visitors also see the high standards that the House of Waterford Crystal maintains. Each piece of crystal, no matter how small, is inspected at each stage of production – that’s six inspections in all – and if it fails to reach the Waterford Crystal standard at any stage it is smashed and returned to the furnace to begin the process again. Retail Store and Brand Experience On completion of the tour, visitors can experience over 12,000 square feet of crystal heaven in the largest showcase of Waterford Crystal in the world. The retail store represents everything they make in crystal, including a section on golf and sport, which is a major part of their international business. The main feature in the retail store is a centre dining table with twelve Waterford Crystal chandeliers on display. The lifestyle displays tell the stories of the various brands available, including the John Rocha, Jeff Leatham and core Waterford Crystal patterns. Open all year round. Factory tours daily
House of Waterford 28 The Mall, Waterford www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com
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Charles Harper RHA, Visit B, 1982, Oil on canvas, 152 x 152cm, Collection of the Arts Council/An Chomhairle Ealaíon on long term loan to LCGA.
James English RHA, Emerging, 2018, 51 x 61 cm, Oil on canvas, Image courtesy of the artist.
EXHIBITIONS AT THE RHA CharlesAnnual Harper, A Retrospective 188th Exhibition Showing until 22 April Showing until 11 August Alex Pentek, Folded Space Showing until 22 April
188thUrsula Annual Burke, Exhibition The Precariat 22 May – 11 August Amanda Dunsmore, I, Christine, Ireland’s largest open submission exhibition Alison Pilkington includes painting, sculpture, photography, September print,Opens drawing7 and architectural models.
ADMISSION ALWAYS FREE Gallagher Gallery / 15 Ely Place, Dublin D02 A213 +353 1 661 2558 / info@rhagallery.ie www.rhagallery.ie
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Instant IN AN
Carol Cronin describes how moving to the west coast of Kerry transformed the way she painted and shifted her focus to the sea, the subject of her new book, Seascapes I NTE RVI E W B Y RENATE QUIGLEY
Sketch for World Oil on linen, 18 x 24 in.
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Carol Cronin P HOTO: M ÁI RE NÍ LÉ I M E
SEASCAPES
‘...the split between the surface and the world beneath. It’s a fascinating thing, exploring and developing a way to convey two worlds in one canvas.’ – Carol Cronin
‘M
ovement’ – that’s the first thing that comes to mind when
Your work is associated with the West Kerry coast. How has
viewing one of Carol Cronin’s seascapes. It strikes you
living there impacted your work?
with force, drawing you into its vastness and power, mak-
It doesn’t just impact my work, it defines it. Previously I was an
ing it impossible to separate yourself from the canvas before you.
abstract painter (I lived and worked in Amsterdam for ten years). It
Carol’s ability to capture the sea, its power and movement,
wasn’t until I came back to Ireland, to the west coast of Kerry, that
on to canvas is intoxicating. When I visited her at her gallery in
I realised I didn’t know what I was doing at all. I stopped painting
the beautiful coastal town of Dingle, she had become quite well
entirely and for about a year I began drawing – I literally drew the
known for her West Kerry seascapes. As we sat down for this
sea. That year of drawing is where everything comes from. The
interview, it struck me that Carol looks at the sea, its vastness
blackness and whiteness, the light and dark, the movement and
and depth, and considers not only its known properties and ele-
structure, and then that slow build-up to colour. So, yes, the west
ments but also the still unknown possibilities beneath, and then
coast of Kerry, where I am currently living, is where everything you
goes about drawing them out, all the while pulling the viewer
see in my paintings comes from.
in, closer and closer. What drew you to the west coast of Kerry – what is that How would you describe your subject matter or the content
connection?
of your work?
I was living happily in Amsterdam when I came back to Ireland to
I paint the sea. It’s difficult for me to describe the sea in words. I
visit my sister for a weekend. We went on a day trip to the Blasket
suppose that’s why I paint. I’m trying to describe what is outside
Islands and in an instant everything changed. I can’t explain what
language. For me, it’s an attempt at visualising not only the power,
happened. It was as if the decision was made for me that I was
the weight and the translucence of the ocean, but also the inexpli-
going to live there on the Great Blasket Island. I left everything
cable emotional response experienced when looking at it.
behind in Amsterdam and, with only a rucksack, moved straight ANTHOLOGY SUMMER 2018 53
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to the island. It was then
What inspires you today?
that all the reasons why
What inspires me is the sea. I try to keep the lines as short as possi-
I wanted to paint came
ble. I look at the sea, I draw it as well as I can, soaking it up, and then
flooding back. I started
in the studio I paint it, using the memory I built up while drawing. I
painting exactly what I
try to keep it as simple as that. I tend not to look at too many other
wanted to paint, where I
artists as I don’t want to be influenced by their style of painting. It’s
wanted to paint, and for
not about the style of painting for me, it’s about the sea.
the first time everything came together. It’s that
You have recently launched your book, Carol Cronin Seascapes.
feeling of stepping onto
What was that experience like for you?
the Blasket Island, that feeling of knowing that I was where I was
It was so strange for me to look back over the paintings I’ve done
supposed to be, that I try to capture on the canvas.
in the past ten years and realise that I still knew them so well – the stories behind each one, how they were shaped, where they are
Do you paint other seascapes beyond the Irish Sea?
now. They are a part of me. They have brought me to where I am
West Kerry is the most important place for me as far as my work is
now. It’s incredible to me that I have been painting the sky and the
concerned. It’s my source. However, I have been commissioned to
sea for sixteen years now and they still continue to inspire and
paint seascapes in different parts of the world, including the Carib-
fascinate me. I’m always looking forward to discovering something
bean, Costa Rica and the United States. These are incredible expe-
new in my next painting.
riences, as they always add a new aspect and understanding to my work while providing time away from my Irish Atlantic coasts. It’s
Is there something you are currently working on, or are excited
important for me to get away sometimes ... it means that I can look
about starting, that you can tell us about?
with refreshed eyes at my surroundings when I come back.
Yes, there are few things percolating … not yet fully developed. Since getting my diving licence, I’ve become more and more capti-
Your seascapes have a strong sense of movement. When
vated by the underwater world. I completed a number of paintings
viewing your work the observer often gets the sensation of
dealing with that split between surface and the world beneath. It’s
being part of it, as if they are literally in or on the sea. How
fascinating, exploring and developing a way to convey two worlds
are you able to achieve that?
in one canvas. I enjoy that constant drive to develop and push the
It’s because when I’m painting I am, in my mind, in or on the sea.
paintings further. It’s an endless pursuit.
What I’m painting is, for me, moving. When I’m in front of the sea, pencil and paper in hand, I’m trying to capture that hugeness, the
Carol’s work can be viewed at The Carol Cronin Gallery, Green
massiveness of it. You really have to look at it, try to capture the
Street, Dingle, Co. Kerry or at www.carolcronin.com.
light, patterns, depth, what’s under the sea, the clouds above, the reflections. It’s not about the drawing, it’s about the looking and trying to understand what’s happening. When I’m in the studio,
ABOVE: Clogher Beach, pencil on paper, 24 x 18in. BELOW, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Pebble Beach, oil on linen, 60 x 36 in; How Deep the Ocean, oil
on linen, 36 x 60 in; Silver Sea, oil on canvas, 30 x 40 in.
I’m working with the canvas, trying to capture and reproduce the tiniest fraction of what’s rolling around in my head. I paint from my memory and experience of the ocean and its movement. How does who you are reflect in your work? My work is who I am. I can’t talk about who I am and my work as two separate things. I’m an abstract painter who has gone towards representational work, and how that reflects me is in everything I paint. Every mark I make on any of my paintings stems from everything I have done before. So my paintings reflect me entirely. 54 SUMMER 2018 ANTHOLOGY
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Fiona Turley
ART
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Gallery Crafts
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njoy a selection of beautifully designed crafts and gifts produced by national and international designers and craft makers. Collections of amazing jewellery, impeccably stylish fashion accessories and unique home accessories are all to be found together with original paintings on silk and a recent collection of stunning cushions by the shop’s owner, Fiona Turley. Fiona is an honours graduate in textile design and interior fashion who had gained many years’ experience in both retail and wholesale before setting up Gallery Crafts. Despite her busy schedule and the demands of the business, she has always found time to paint and her work has been featured extensively in exhibitions while also being sold through craft fairs and leading craft shops. Fiona and her team are always on hand to offer their wealth of experience and knowledge to assist customers in making the right selection of gifts for those they need to impress. Whether visiting the online store at www. fionaturley.com or popping in to Gallery Crafts in Kilworth, a warm welcome awaits you!
Fiona welcomes private commissions for paintings and can be contacted at: Gallery Crafts, Kilworth, Co.Cork T:353 (0)25 27972 I www.fionaturley.com
Cooke’s at The Gallery A casual dining space adjoining Gallery Crafts offering a thoughtful and creative breakfast and lunch menu and homemade baking. ANTHOLOGY SUMMER 2018 55
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FRIDA KHALO: Making Her Self Up How one of the most recognised and significant female artists of the twentieth century fashioned her identity
WORDS E DE L CASSI DY
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n exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, presents an unparalleled insight into the life of Frida Kahlo. This is the first exhibition outside of Mexico to display the artist’s clothes and intimate possessions, reuniting them with key
self-portraits and photographs to offer a fresh perspective on her compelling life story. Best known for her myriad self-portraits, Frida Kahlo’s unique painting style combines influences from native Mexican votive art and the European Surrealists. Throughout her life she had great difficulties to overcome and her self-portraiture offers a fascinating glimpse into her mind. She was born in 1907 in Coyoacán, a village on the outskirts of Mexico City, and contracted polio at the age of six. As a teenager, she was involved in a horrific bus accident which left her with a dislocated shoulder and several broken bones, including a broken spinal column. She also had eleven fractures in her right leg, and her right foot was crushed. She spent three months in a full
RIGHT: Frida Kahlo, c. 1926. Museo Frida Kahlo. © Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo Archives, Banco de México, Fiduciary of the Trust of the Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo Museums. OPPOSITE: Frida on the bench, 1939, photograph by Nickolas Muray. © Nickolas Muray Photo Archives
body cast, and although she recovered from her injuries and was eventually able to walk again, she was in extreme pain for the remainder of her life. Bored by long hospital stays, Frida took up painting. She had an easel specially made that
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enabled her to paint in bed and she set up a mirror so she could see herself. When her health had recovered sufficiently she resumed contact with her old school friends and joined the Mexican Communist Party. There she was introduced to a circle of political activists and artists, including the renowned Mexican muralist Diego Rivera. In 1929 she married Rivera who encouraged her to develop her painting and to see herself as a work of art. After they married she began dressing in indigenous skirts and blouses and arranging her hair in elaborate braids, the traditional dress of the Tehuana women of Oaxaca. Tehuantepec has a reputation for being a matriarchal society, its women famous for being stately, beautiful, sensuous, intelligent, brave and strong. Their traditional dress symbolised the things that Frida represented as an artist and as an activist: feminism, independence and equality. The long skirts also concealed her damaged body. Rivera was notorious for his numerous love affairs, and their marriage was a Revlon compact and powderpuff with blusher in ‘Clear Red’ and Revlon lipstick in ‘Everything’s Rosy’; emery boards and eyebrow pencil in ‘Ebony’. Before 1954. Photograph Javier Hinojosa. © Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo Archives, Banco de México, Fiduciary of the Trust of the Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo Museums.
passionate yet tumultuous one, replete with infidelity. Frida was deeply hurt by his philandering, especially his affair with her younger sister, Cristina, but she had many affairs herself during the marriage and the couple divorced in 1939. Less than a year later they were back together and remarried. When French Surrealist André Breton visited Rivera in April 1938 he was impressed by Frida’s work, immediately claiming her as a surrealist and promising to arrange for her paintings to be exhibited in Manhattan and in Paris.
‘Bored by long hospital stays, Frida took up painting. She had an easel specially made that enabled her to paint in bed and she set up a mirror so she could see herself.’
In October 1938 Kahlo travelled to New York and, despite the Great Depression, sold half of the twenty-five paintings on show. The following January her exhibition opened in Paris
Frida Kahlo in blue satin blouse, 1939, photograph by Nickolas Muray. © Nickolas Muray Photo Archives
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Necklace of silver, enamel, turquoise and coral with hinged compartment, made by Matilde Poulat, Mexico City, c.1950. Museo Frida Kahlo. Photograph Javier Hinojosa. © Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo Archives, Banco de México, Fiduciary of the Trust of the Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo Museums.
but made a loss financially. However, the Louvre purchased a self-portrait, The Frame, making her the first Mexican artist to be featured in their collection. She was also warmly received by artists such as Pablo Picasso and Joan Miró. While in Paris, she dressed in her native Mexican Tehuana outfits and became the centre of attention wherever she
Guatemalan cotton coat worn with Mazatec huipil and plain floor-length skirt Museo Frida Kahlo. © Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo Archives, Banco de México, Fiduciary of the Trust of the Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo Museums.
went. The fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli created a dress, La Robe Madame Rivera, based on her exotic apparel, and French Vogue even featured her on its pages. Although Frida created works that were considered by others to be surrealist, she herself rejected the label. ‘They thought I was a surrealist,’ she said, ‘but I wasn’t. I never painted dreams … I painted my own reality.’ Most of her paintings relate to her experiences with physical and psychological suffering, and chronicle her turbulent relationship with Rivera. Her work is daring in that it openly displays her vulnerabilities so that viewers can better understand and relate to her emotions and experiences. Her self-portraits appear to be very direct, honest appraisals. However, when compared with photographs of her, the portraits are actually quite harsh. They almost always emphasise her facial hair and unibrow, which, while visible in photographs, are much more pronounced in her paintings. Some critics, therefore, perceive her work as self-critical ANTHOLOGY SUMMER 2018 59
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and hard-edged, expressing pain, disappointment and emotional turmoil, while to others it is the work of an unorthodox, confident and unapologetic woman. The exhibition at the V&A will reimagine Kahlo’s home, La Casa Azul (the Blue House), where she was born, and where she lived and died. It will explore her life as a child with her family up to her marriage, and includes an album of architectural photographs of churches by her German father, Guillermo Kahlo, and early paintings and photographs of Kahlo and Rivera together and with their influential circle of friends. More than 200 objects from the Blue House will be on display, including many of Frida’s personal items – clothing, letters, jewellery, cosmetics and medicines – discovered in 2004, fifty years after being sealed up by her husband following her death in 1954. Exploring her highly choreographed appearance and style, the exhibits include twenty-two distinctive colourful Tehuana garments and a pre-Columbian necklace that Frida strung herself. In 1953 gangrene set into Frida’s right foot and her leg had to be amputated below the knee. She created a prosthetic leg with an embroidered bright red lace-up boot and a bell attached. For most of her life she wore medical corsets, but she graffitied and decorated them in defiance of the health issues that crippled her. Examples of these intricately hand-painted corsets and prosthetics will be displayed, alongside film and photography of the artist as a visual narrative of her life. Included in Kahlo’s make-up selection is her eyebrow pencil, ‘Ebony’, still in its original packaging, with which she emphasised her signature unibrow, her favourite lipstick, Revlon’s ‘Everything’s Rosy’, and her red nail polish. Her vividly coloured cosmetics are striking in the celebrated portraits by photographer Nickolas Muray, which show her wearing many of the clothes on display.
Frida Kahlo with Olmec figurine, 1939, photograph by Nickolas Muray. © Nickolas Muray Photo Archives
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‘They thought I was a surrealist, but I wasn’t. I never painted dreams… I painted my own reality’ – Frida Khalo
Prosthetic leg with leather boot. Appliquéd silk with embroidered Chinese motifs. Photograph Javier Hinojosa. Museo Frida Kahlo. © Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo Archives, Banco de México, Fiduciary of the Trust of the Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo Museums.
Cotton huipil with machine-embroidered chain stitch; printed cotton skirt with embroidery and holán. Ensemble from the Isthmus of Tehuantepec. Photograph Javier Hinojosa. © Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo Archives, Banco de México, Fiduciary of the Trust of the Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo Museums.
Circe Henestrosa, Head of the School of Fashion, LASALLE College of the Arts, Singapore, and exhibition co-curator, said: ‘The exhibition will be a very personal experience with deeply individualised objects on show, particularly her corsets, which she decorated and painted, making them appear as though she had explicitly chosen to wear them. She included them in her art and in the construction of her style as an essential wardrobe item, almost as a second skin.’ A highlight will be the resplandor, a lace headdress worn by the women of the Tehuantepec region in Southern Mexico, paired with a self-portrait of Kahlo wearing it.
Frida Kahlo: Making Her Self Up is sponsored by Grosvenor Britain and Ireland and GRoW @ Annenberg and runs at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, until 4 November 2018.
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true colours Niamh O’Neill’s Summer collection shot on location in Cape Town
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FASHI ON
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iamh O’Neill set up her eponymous label six years ago, and since then, with each new season,
she has created collections that capture the essence of modern femininity. While the fashion world constantly revolutionises the way women dress, Niamh’s designs serve those who still want to pair a soigné wardrobe with the comfort that suits her lifestyle. In conversation with Edel Cassidy, Niamh talks of her inspirations, how she balances her creative and business roles, and her plans for the future. You launched Niamh O’Neill after working with great brands such as Diane Von Furstenberg, John Galliano and Martin Grant. How much did these experiences influence your own label? I always wanted to have my own brand but I knew it was important to gain some industry experience first. I was so lucky to have worked with some hugely successful international design houses, and of course
Who is the typical woman you design
Your designs are very elegant and femi-
this kind of experience shapes you as a
for? How did you decide on your target
nine. Were you ever tempted to go for a
designer. DVF and John Galliano were very
market?
more informal, hip or edgy style?
creative roles, and Martin Grant gave me
The Niamh O’Neill woman is busy! She has
I believe it’s important to stay true to who
great experience in the technical side of
work, family and a busy social life to manage.
you are as a designer and to design what
things. Having your own brand means being
Our collections answer her need to look and
comes naturally. Elegance and feminin-
able to marry the creative with the techni-
feel amazing while attending work events
ity are always key characteristics of our
cal and also the business side of things.
and occasions with friends and family.
collections. Whether it’s a beautiful dress for an occasion or a silk blouse to wear with jeans, both outfits can be elegant and feminine. It’s an attitude. I love your colour palette and fabric choice. What are you favourite fabrics and do you design any of the fabrics yourself? Yes, beautiful fabrics are a joy! We design new fabrics each season with fabric mills in France and Italy. This season we designed the red and pink summer tweed with a mill in Paris. It has both red and pink yarns running through it and a silver lurex yarn ANTHOLOGY SUMMER 2018 63
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to work on the business. After six years, I feel experienced with running a business and it’s very rewarding to see it grow. How difficult was it to create brand awareness and get your label known? I started six years ago from scratch with a capsule collection of six pieces. Luckily I got quite a bit of media interest with the first collection. Then I won Fashion Designer of the Year Award at the Irish Fashion Innovation Awards with the second collection. This was very helpful in terms of establishing the brand as a key player in Irish fashion. We’ve built on this each season after that, but it’s always a work in progress.
to give it a subtle shimmer. We also design and hand draw all our own prints in studio. The butterfly and bee print took months to create but it has paid off. It’s a beauty! We print on to 100% silk. Our customers know they have a very exclusive fabric. Since setting up your own label have you found it difficult to manage both the creative and business sides of the operation? I don’t think any designer can do this with ease! The creative and design side of the business comes very naturally to me. I started my business with little or no business experience and have had to learn fast. It’s about discipline and planning. You need to schedule time to be creative and time
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FASHI ON
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As your label is now well recognised, can you relax a little or does this increase the pressure to maintain your position in the marketplace? The fashion industry has never changed as fast as it’s changing now. It’s evolving at a rapid speed, and all fashion brands have to evolve with it or be left behind. We are constantly changing and evolving. I love that about fashion – it’s never boring. To relax in this industry is to retire! Your Summer 2018 fashion shoot is amazing. How difficult was this to set up and to locate the team? The SS18 shoot turned out beautifully. I love how the colours all work together. Credit is due in large part to our photographer, Anita Sadowska. I’ve worked with Anita every season since I started. She knows the brand so well. When Anita suggested shooting in Cape Town, we immediately put together a plan of the vis-
uals and how it would all work there. Our
the year. We hold informative workshops
gorgeous model and the hair and make-up
and plan events as a group. It’s wonderful
team were all with agencies in Cape Town.
to have these events dedicated to our
It has such a sizzling, summery vibe!
industry, but it’s also wonderful to have a support network. I’m currently on the
Who are your style icons?
board of directors and have the role of
I tend to look to the past when it comes
press officer, liaising with fashion editors
to style icons. I love Marlene Dietrich and
and journalists in the run up to our events.
Frida Kahlo. We’re currently designing a new collection and taking some inspiration
What are your plans for the future?
from Kahlo’s style.
We’re working on expanding our offer next year and have a special capsule collection
Tell me about your involvement with the
to add to our main collection. We’re also
Council of Irish Fashion Designers.
expanding carefully into the UK. Our online
The Council of Irish Fashion Designers is
store, niamhoneill.com, is in increasing de-
a group of fashion designers, milliners and
mand and we have plans to add exclusives
jewellers. We meet together throughout
to it in the coming months.
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The first exhibition dedicated to the celebrated Irish designer Orla Kiely is on display this summer at the Fashion and Textile Museum, London ABOVE: Orla Kiely Mug archive 2007-2018; OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Spring Summer 2015 Lookbook; Orla Kiely portrait. Image by Nicole Nodland; Spring Summer 2017 New York Fashion Week ; Autumn Winter 2017 Campaign. All images Š Orla Kiely.
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orla kiely:
A Life in
Pattern
FASHI ON
Orla Kiely’s world of pattern. Nature is the single most significant inspiration for pattern designers throughout history and Orla is no exception. Each design is developed carefully by drawing and refining the essential organic elements that are the foundation of her repeating patterns – the natural world rendered more abstract and graphic. Her pareddown plant shapes and animal designs reveal an artful simplicity that captures only the essential aspects of the form. The exhibition will chart the growth and success of Orla Kiely from her first collection of hats, presented at London Fashion Week in 1994, through to the advent of the iconic Orla Kiely bag in the mid-nineties and her freelance work for department stores. Her most recent collections of homeware and fashion will be showcased alongside her film collaborations with artists such as Mercedes Helnwein and Gia Coppola. The exhibition will also explore Orla’s childhood in Ireland and the way that
‘Pattern is not a trend for me, to be taken up one minute and abandoned the next when the winds of fashion change. Pattern is in me. It’s my life.’ Orla Kiely
P
environment influenced her creative work. Through her love of colour, from the greens and greys of vast skies to the browns and mustard yellows of the rolling hills and gorse, she pays homage to the colours of the Irish countryside. Rare family photographs and ephemera will be displayed alongside Orla’s earliest designs. Orla presented her first ready-to-wear collection in 2003 using simple, clean silhou-
resented thematically, Orla Kiely: A
and a range of making techniques.
ettes that allowed the prints to stand out. Her
Life in Pattern will explore all aspects
The exhibition will follow Orla’s work
clothes are now worn by many well-known
of the designer’s creative output, from
through the framework of her greatest
names including Alexa Chung, Keira Knight-
lifestyle and fashion ranges to use of colour
tool – pattern. Her patterns can work on
ley, Emma Thompson, Scarlett Johansson
and the geometry of pattern. The exhibition
any scale, and dresses will be reimagined
and Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge.
will draw on an archive of over twenty years
to huge sizes and displayed alongside tiny
of work, offering visitors an unparalleled
dolls in replica outfits. Visitors will enter an
Orla Kiely: A Life in Pattern will run at
insight into her methods and concepts, and
immersive installation and be absorbed in
the Textile Museum, London, until 23
exploring sketches, mood boards, samples
the kaleidoscopic colours and rhythms of
September 2018. ANTHOLOGY SUMMER 2018 69
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museum of lace to present:
haute dentelle An exhibition highlighting the creative partnerships between the makers of woven lace and fashion designers
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FASHI ON
H
aute couture lace is set to go under the
spotlight this summer with the opening of a new exhibition at the Museum of Lace and Fashion (Cité de la Dentelle et de la Mode) in Calais. The museum, which is dedicated to hand-made and mechanical lace, presents Haute Dentelle, a show that offers visitors a unique view into the contemporary use of woven lace by fashion de-
tered as a protected trademark. Comprising more than sixty dresses from
signers. It explores the impact of the fabric on some of
the latest haute couture shows, the exhibition at Cité
the most famous couture and ready-to-wear collections
Dentelle Mode will highlight the importance of lace in
of the past five years.
fashion design. Exceptional pieces have been selected
Calais is synonymous with lace; as the port is situated so
from fourteen prestigious luxury fashion houses, and
close to the Belgian border you might think the tradition
the exhibition will explore the effects of both hand and
has a link to Flemish hand-made lace. However, Calais lace
machine techniques on the catwalk trends of the past
actually has its origins in the English city of Nottingham:
few years. Intricate pieces from Balenciaga, Valentino,
in the nineteenth century the city was recognised as the
Christian Dior and Viktor&Rolf will be on show, along-
lace-making capital of the world.
side garments from Maison Margiela, Ralph & Russo,
In 1816, in a bid to escape a period of economic and
Jean Paul Gaultier, Schiaparelli, and more.
social unrest at home, some workers from Nottingham set up shop in the Saint Pierre quarter of Calais with
Haute Dentelle will run at the Museum of Lace and
their lace-making machines. Being in France gave them
Fashion (Cité de la Dentelle et de la Mode), Calais,
access to the French luxury market and paved the way
until 6 January 2019.
for a large number of British labour migrants. By 1860, British lace-makers had created 230 different businesses in Calais. Most were small entrepreneurs, with just a few workers; the industry reached its peak in around 1905, the height of the Belle Époque period, with over 500 mills, 3000 machines and 40,000 workers. Northern France became the European centre of the finest laces and, in 1958, Dentelle de Calais® (Calais lace) was regis-
OPPOSITE: Skirt in hand-cut Leavers lace with a floral motif. Haute couture spring–summer 2015 collection, Chanel [Solstiss lace]. ©Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld ABOVE: Skirt (detail) in hand-cut Leavers lace with a floral motif. Haute couture spring–summer 2015 collection, Chanel [Solstiss lace]. ©Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld
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OPPOSITE: Dress in Leavers lace overembroidered with beads and feathers. Couture autumn–winter 2017–2018 collection, Zuhair Murad [Sakae Lace Laces]. ©Zuhair Murad RIGHT: Dress (detail) in Leavers lace overembroidered with beads and feathers. Couture autumn–winter 2017–2018 collection, Zuhair Murad [Sakae Lace Laces]. ©Zuhair Murad
BELOW: Dress and headdress in watered ribbon, tulle and Leavers lace. Haute couture autumn–winter 2016–2017 collection, Jean Paul Gaultier [Solstiss lace]. ©Robin
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ABOVE: Dress in siliconised Leavers lace and tulle. Haute couture autumn–winter 2013– 2014 collection, Germinal model, Yiqing Yin [Sophie Hallette lace]. ©Shuji Fujii ABOVE RIGHT: Dress in jersey and Leavers lace. Haute couture autumn–winter 2013–2014 collection, Aphrodite model, Yiqing Yin [Sophie Hallette lace] ©Shuji Fujii
OPPOSITE: Jacket and skirt in recycled tulles and laces. Haute couture autumn– winter 2016–2017 collection. ©Viktor&Rolf
PAGE 76: Dress in chiffon and Chantilly Leavers lace. Couture spring–summer 2017 collection, Ralph&Russo [Jean Bracq lace]. ©Ralph&Russo
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31
FASHI ON
Chapel Lane
H
eadquartered in Limerick, 31 Chap-
Combining their creative and business
el Lane designs and manufactures
skills, they set up 31 Chapel Lane. Its name
high-quality clothing and home-
is derived from a place in Co. Cavan near
wares using Irish linen and tweed. Damien
Damien’s childhood home where the Irish
and Joi Hannigan, the company’s founders,
linen industry was prominent during the
took an unusual route into the world of
seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.
a graduate of UCD School of Architecture
and intriguing, combining timeless cuts
and has worked as an architect in Dublin,
and effortless elegance with 31 Chapel
London, Hong Kong and Tokyo. Joi is from
Lane’s signature natural tones. Each piece
www.31chapellane.com
Sydney, Australia, holds a masters degree
is tailored from finest Irish linen or Donegal
in management and previously worked in
tweed, and manufactured in-house with a
financial services.
focus on excellence and longevity.
fashion. Damien, originally from Cavan, is
The Summer 2018 Collection is fresh
View the full collection at
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’80s
Style Revival O N T H E R U N WAY S
The Summer 2018 runway trends are firmly focused on the 1980s, with designers reimagining some of the era’s most iconic trends. Colour is key, whether vivid primaries or sugaredalmond pastels. Silhouettes are defined with nipped waists, padded hips, low-cut necklines, strong shoulders and long legs. Key looks vary from pretty summer dresses to sharp separates and head-to-toe tailoring showcasing boxy blazers, highwaistlines and puff-sleeved jackets.
78 SUMMER 2018 ANTHOLOGY
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RALPH
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&
RUSSO
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GEORGES HOBEIKA Exploring the beauty created by new unions – a captivating fusion of nature and modernity, an association of graphic patterns and bucolic lines that present the complexity and sensuality of unexpected connections – describe this encounter of opposites on a myriad of silhouettes.
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CAROLINA HERRERA Exuding luxury and elegance, the collection is full of sophistication, grace and classic style. Lots of feminine dresses that flow well perfect for the beach with sandals, or for formal evenings with heels. The signature white button-up shirt is featured with gigot sleeves and a plunging neckline. 82 SUMMER 2018 ANTHOLOGY
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RALPH & RUSSO Interspersed with crisp whites, the collection highlights flashes of electric metallic blues, while blush tones offset icy silver embellishments. This debut prĂŞt-Ă -porter collection fuses traditionalism and contemporary artistry, and caters to the modern woman across every aspect of her life. ANTHOLOGY SUMMER 2018 85
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Merrion Square
open-air art gallery Take a Sunday stroll to discover the colour and beauty of Dublin’s Merrion Square Open-Air Art Gallery
E
ach Sunday, Merrion Square, in the heart of Geor-
Many of the cultural institutions of Dublin City are
gian Dublin, is transformed into a vast al fresco
closed on Sunday mornings, so the exhibition provides
art gallery. For art collectors or those seeking a
a colourful fiesta and a pleasant opportunity for visitors
cultural experience, a visit to the Merrion Square Open-
to view paintings. As the artists themselves are present,
Air Art Gallery is great way to enjoy a Sunday afternoon.
visitors get ample face time with the creators and de-
The causal and eclectic atmosphere is hard to beat.
signers behind the work.
Merrion Square is considered one of the finest sur-
There have been artists exhibiting paintings on Merri-
viving intact Georgian Squares in Dublin. Originally laid
on Square for more than thirty years, but not just anyone
out in 1762, it is surrounded on three sides by Geor-
can set up shop. The artists have a licence from Dublin
gian redbrick houses, with the west side fronted by
City Council to exhibit original paintings only. Most of the
Government Buildings, the Natural History Museum,
exhibitors are professional and full time artists, so expect
Leinster House and the National Gallery of Ireland.
to see quality originals! There are many genres of art to
The square has many associations with significant figures in Ireland’s political and cultural history.
be found, from traditional to abstract – everyone has their own unique style – and they are there because their work is appreciated, valued and purchased.
‘The exhibition provides a colourful fiesta and a pleasant opportunity for visitors to view paintings’
‘Painting is a solitary career and often quite isolating,’ explains Elizabeth Prendergast, secretary of the Merrion Square Artists’ Association. ‘So Merrion Square provides a weekly opportunity to socialise with other artists and to discuss ideas, materials, techniques and other exhibitions we’ve seen. Most of the artists have been there for
Among the famous residents who have lived there are Daniel O’Connell, Oscar Wilde and William But-
many years and have become close friends.’ Merrion Square has become a focus for many other
ler Yeats. Many of the houses have plaques detailing
events, such as national Children’s Play Day and various
the rich and famous who once were resident. The
music/cultural days. The dedicated artists exhibit year
attractive central park features colourful flower and
round, even in the sometimes inclement weather condi-
shrub beds, a playground and several statues. Look
tions, each Sunday from 10am to 5pm.
out for Oscar Wilde casually reclining on the rock!
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ART
+ CULTURE
Oscar Wilde, once a resident of the square
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Donna McGee
D
onna is inspired by the restless elemental forces of the Irish landscape and enjoys capturing its timeless beauty. She is drawn to the allure of stormy skies and vibrant sunsets contrasting with the dynamic force of the ocean. Her paintings have an ethereal feel. She sometimes incorporates surrealist elements to create an atmospheric effect so that the subject matter is transformed rather than merely recorded. The ever-changing light draws an emotional response and a spiritual connection with nature. This natural beauty features strongly in her work. Donna is a self-taught artist and works mainly in the medium of oils. She works from her home studio and has been painting for over twenty years. Donna’s work is available for viewing and purchase at Merrion Square Open Art Gallery every Sunday in
beautiful Georgian Dublin, also at the People’s Art exhibition in the centre of Dublin city at regular intervals throughout the year. This provides a great opportunity for visitors not only to view the paintings but also to meet Donna in person and discuss the work. In the past she has participated in Art Source, the House Event and Ideal Homes with great success.
Jean Lowndes Dublin-based Artist
I
nspired by her love of nature, gained especially from growing up on a farm in Co. Dublin, Jean paints in oils using a thick impasto technique and strong vivid
primary colours applied with a palette knife to create mood and atmosphere. She is a regular exhibitor at Merrion Square and is renowned for her paintings of woodland, trees, poppies and coastal scenes with little yachts. Jean also exhibits at Arts Source RDS, House RDS,
T: 087 6791817 E: info@donnamcgee.ie www.donnamcgee.ie
Gifted RDS, the Peoples Art in St Stephen’s Green, and Kilkenny Arts Week. Her work has been showcased on TV3’s Showhouse Showdown with Anne-Marie Hamill of Hamilton Interiors. Ongoing Exhibitions: Red Stables in Clontarf, and Crafters, Kilrane, Co. Wexford.
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ART
+ CULTURE
Elizabeth Prendergast Botanical Artist
T
he subject of Elizabeth Prendergast’s art for the past twenty years has been flowers. She only paints from cut samples of seasonal plants, which means that every
single piece is unique. She gathers her subjects from fields
MERRION ART
and from the gardens of people who commission her to paint portraits of their most loved flowers. She is a founding member of the Irish Society of Botanical Art and the Secretary of Merrion Square Artists Association, and she shows her work on the East side of Merrion Square
Meet the Merrion Square Artists every Sunday
(weather permitting) every Sunday, winter and summer. Visit her website www.elizabethprendergast.com to view her work, but it is best, and more fun, to come and meet her and have a
View original paintings and also meet with the artists and learn about their work.
chat on Merrion Square.
Around the perimeter of Merrion Square on Sunday 10am – 5pm
T: 086 8154805 E: lowndes4_j@hotmail.com www.jeanlowndesart.ie
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presenting
devotion bag
Dolce & Gabbana S
traight off the runway, the Dolce &
that distinguishes Dolce & Gabbana: the
Gabbana Devotion Bag is the new
handmade, an acute sense of proportion, a
object of desire. Born from the love
love for elegance, contrasts, colours, fabrics,
of craftsmanship and attention to detail,
refined materials and quality. These are the
the bag is embellished with the ultimate
values that encapsulate the heart of ‘Made
symbol of love: the sacred heart.
in Italy’ and which are central to the aes-
Crafted in the brand’s native Italy, the
Recently launched at Milan Fashion
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana.
Week, the wonders of technology were
They are devoted to style, hard work, de-
fully embraced when the Devotion Bag
tail, innovation, religion, craftsmanship and
was flown down the catwalk by fashion-
creativity. They are devoted, most of all, to
able drones. A procession of eight drones
fashion, their greatest love and inspiration.
appeared, each carrying a handbag. They
Fundamental to this devotion is their respect for the craftsmanship and creativity
‘A procession of eight drones appeared, each carrying a handbag’
90_91_D&G_bag_pix.indd 90
thetics and imagination of the designers.
bag represents the devotion that drives
made quite an impression on the audience as they came out one at a time in a coordinated dance that gave the audience a 360° view of each bag.
01/07/18 19:20
FASHI ON
the new
devotion bag from Dolce & Gabbana
ANTHOLOGY SUMMER 2018 91
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GAME PLAN Achieving your goals – tips that actually work WORDS JE ANNI E CROUCHE R
M
any of us have a dream that has
our goals because we have a burning
progress reports and then sent them to
been smouldering away in the
desire to better ourselves and our lives.
a friend for accountability were close
back of our minds which we’ve
Attaining those goals is possible.
to eighty percent more successful than
never been able to realise. It might be an
With careful planning and some hard
those who didn’t. A good tip is to express
idea for starting up a business or a plan to
work, by next year, you could be looking
your goals in positive terms and use words
get a promotion. Some people want to lose
back with a sense of satisfaction at what
such as ‘I will...’ instead of ‘I would like to...’
weight, others want to run a marathon.
you’ve achieved. Here are some tried and
Buying a goal-setting journal with specific
tested tips to help you achieve your goals.
timeframes is a good investment. It’s also
Whatever the goal may be, we all have the one aim in common: to create or improve the version of ourselves that
Write it down.
worth checking the internet for templates that can be copied and used.
already exists. Now, miracles don’t happen
If a goal is written down – on paper or
overnight, so it’s a good idea to be realistic
your device of choice – the probability of
about what can be achieved, but some-
achieving success can increase by forty
thing deep inside us pushes us towards
two percent according to a study by the
family and even some close work
Dominican University of California. Writing
colleagues can result in much needed
goals down is a huge motivator when it
encouragement, particularly when you hit
comes to realising your ambitions. Study
the inevitable obstacles along the way.
participants who wrote out their goals,
It’s important to remember that you’re
committed to an action plan, kept weekly
not alone and it’s wise to make use of the
Tell people about it
Sharing goals and ambitions with friends,
‘If a goal is too easily achieved, then there’s no great sense of achievement when it’s finally realised’
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HE ALTH
Break it down
Set a time limit
along the road and offer encouragement
too big. So break your goal down into small
much flexibility. Some other more pressing
when energy is flagging.
attainable steps or milestones. Develop a
issue might take its place, leaving your mo-
staged plan or block-building framework
tivation to flounder on the rocks. A deadline
which can be your feel-good chart to daily,
will help to keep the mind focused on the
weekly and monthly progress.
task at hand. Yes, this adds to the pressure,
help and support of others. In addition, supporters can help celebrate milestones
Be realistic
Sometimes it’s all too easy for our lavish
It’s all too easy to give up if the goal is just
A goal without a timeframe offers too
dreams to take hold and carry us away
but when you have a fixed date to work
to Never Never Land. Setting a goal to
towards, you’re less likely to be sidetracked
cure a rare disease when you don’t have a
and more likely to be successful.
background in medical science is doomed to failure because it wasn’t a realistic goal
Finally, it’s imperative to pick a goal that
in the first place. Of course, if a goal is too
motivates you and to which you can
easily achieved, then there’s no great sense
commit. Pick something that is important
of achievement when it’s finally realised.
to you so you can increase your chances
The trick is to try to find a balance be-
of success. As the author Tony Robbins
tween the two and make sure that you’re
once said, ‘Setting goals is the first step in
challenged by whichever goal you choose.
turning the invisible into the visible.’
ANTHOLOGY SUMMER 2018 93
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under sun
Best Moisturisers with SPF
THE
Protect your skin from harmful rays this summer
WORDS RÓI SÍ N CASSI DY
Reform Skincare Advanced Formula Sunscreen SPF 30
This non-sticky lightweight white cream blends into the skin with ease, leaving no white residue. It is rich in titanium dioxide, an active mineral ingredient that works naturally to block the sun’s rays. With an SPF 30 sunscreen, the formula is designed to allow the skin to breathe while providing UV protection from harmful sun exposure. It’s also water resistant for up to forty minutes. The addition of vitamin E provides antioxidant protection, while aloe vera soothes and calms the skin. This is a product that works well as a year-round daily moisturiser, and the use of titanium dioxide ensures it is gentle enough to use on sensitive skin and safe to use on rosacea or acne.
e all know that wearing a sunscreen on the face is one of the best ways to minimise harmful sun damage and to preserve youthful skin. Traditionally, sun creams were thick, sticky and uncomfortable to wear, especially under make-up, but now, thanks to improved formulas and technology, there are plenty of options to choose from that you’ll be happy to wear. Here are what I consider to be some of the best.
Clarins UV Plus AntiPollution Day Screen SPF 50 So lightweight in texture that it’s hardly noticeable on the skin but powerful enough to protect, defend and safeguard, not just from UV but also from pollution. The skin has a natural protective antioxidant system but this is weakened by age, lifestyle and environmental factors, and this product is a perfect environmental shield. Blackcurrant extract calms the skin and the infra-red defence system reduces heat in the skin and works against inflammation, while hyaluronic acid gives hydration. The cream looks white in the hand but goes on like a serum, disappearing immediately, making it compatible with all skin care and make-up products. Skin will appear more radiant and youthful, but the cream also helps to prevent the appearance of dark spots and future ageing.
SkinCeuticals Mineral Radiance UV Defense A tinted weightless fluid, with 100% mineral filters that provide broad-spectrum UVA and UVB protection, as well as giving a hint of colour. It is lightweight and comfortable to wear, with a subtle matte tint that is natural looking but gives the skin a healthy glow. Suitable for all skin types, its tint will adapt to each individual’s natural skin tone, leaving an even colour that works on both fair and dark skin. What is really unique about this product is that it’s an incredibly light almost watery fluid. Even a really generous application doesn’t look or feel heavy. It layers well too, should it need to be topped up during the day, or if it’s worn under a foundation.
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B E AUTY
Elemis Daily Defence Shield SPF 30 A brand new triple defence system from Elemis that delivers broad-spectrum protection against environmental factors, including UV rays, pollution and high-energy visible light. It is well known that sun damage and stress are silent agers. Now there is evidence that the blue light emitted from the technology we love so much can also damage the skin. Coconut and jojoba oils provide nourishing moisture, while argania leaf soothes the skin. It has a perfect consistency, light and silky, and penetrates the skin wonderfully leaving it hydrated but with no oily residue or shine. A perfect base for make-up but can be used on top of moisturiser for those with drier skin
Merumaya Youth Preservation Moisturiser SPF 20 Although this is a very light non-greasy formula, it leaves the skin well hydrated and in perfect shape for make-up application. It contains an impressive line-up of oils: sunflower seed oil, abyssinian oil, and the star ingredient, echium oil, known as ‘repair elixir’, which is incredibly effective at calming areas that are prone to inflammation and redness. The use of three molecular weights of hyaluronic acid ensures skin effectively holds moisture. It also treats the skin with antioxidants and provides broad-spectrum sun protection. Merumaya is an interesting skincare range founded by Maleka Dattu, a former cosmetics management executive who had worked for brands such as Lancôme and Clinique.
Lancer Sheer Fluid Sun Shield SPF 30 Zelens Daily Defence Sunscreen SPF 30 Why am I not surprised that leading authority on skin ageing and skin cancer Dr Marko Lens has created this product? As most damage and ageing to the skin is the result of exposure to the sun, his emphasis is most definitely on creating the best possible shield and sunscreen. He uses a novel micro-encapsulation technology whereby UV filters are enclosed in silica-based capsules that are invisible in the formulation and on the skin. It’s as light as a feather in texture and very lightly scented. It works well on sensitive skin, and the shinefree finish makes it great for men too.
Created by Dr Harold Lancer, who operates a private practice in Beverly Hills and is one of the most sought-out dermatology professionals, especially by some of the most beautiful and glamorous celebrities in the world. In addition to providing high sun protection, the fluid includes rare Gamay grape stem cells and a DNA repair complex containing potent anti-ageing ingredients that enhance cell metabolism and reduce the appearance of sun damage. Oil-free, incredibly lightweight and invisible on the skin, it contains a high percentage of zinc oxide, which is great for reducing redness and inflammation caused by oxidative stress. Ideal as a make-up primer, it leaves a smooth, even finish with no greasy or heavy after-feel
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Circus250: ART OF THE SHOW
The National Gallery of Ireland commemorates the 250th anniversary of the first circus WORDS E DE L CASSI DY
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ART
I
t’s the 250th anniversary of the circus and the National Gallery of Ireland is marking the occasion with an exhibition
(Top) Jack B Yeats, Double Jockey Act; (Bottom) Jack B Yeats, Conversation Under the Rose.
established Astley’s Riding School at the
the Show is a selection of works, drawn
southern end of Westminster Bridge in
from the gallery’s own collection, by Irish
1768 and Patty joined Philip in executing
artists such as Mainie Jellett, Martin Gale
tricks on horseback. He expanded his
RHA, Harry Kernoff, and Jack B. Yeats.
riding shows to include acrobatic and com-
Circus posters and programmes from the
edy performances. By 1780 he had built a
archives enhance the display.
roof over the entire arena so that his audi-
After a spell in the army, ex-cavalry
ences could enjoy winter evening amuse-
man Philip Astley (1742–1814) opened a
ments. Not only is Astley considered the
riding school in Lambeth, London, where
father of the modern circus, but he’s also
he taught in the mornings and performed
credited with discovering that the ideal
equestrian tricks in the afternoons. Musical
size for a circus ring is 42 feet in diameter,
accompaniment was provided by Astley’s
the optimum size to use centrifugal force
wife, Patty, who beat a big drum. They
to help balance on a horse’s back.
Pantomime Clowns Mocking Each Other, 1822 © NGI. BELOW: Harry Kernoff, Circus Ring.
CULTURE
ABOVE: Jack B Yeats, Cavaliers Farewell. RIGHT:
of circus-inspired works. Circus250: Art of
OPPOSITE: George Joseph Huband, Two
+
Dublin was the first city outside Eng-
performances for the following seven years. Although Astley’s circus predates
land to which he travelled, performing
the works in Circus250: Art of the Show,
with his troupe. In December 1773, he
his legacy is clear to see.
opened his riding
The works in the exhibition span two
school on Inns Quay,
centuries, from the 1880s to the present
Dublin, giving hugely
day, and includes oil paintings and works
popular perfor-
on paper in a wide range of media, from
mances and riding
graphite and aquatint to etching and dry-
lessons; he even
point. From his earliest years, Jack B. Yeats
appeared at Capel
had a fascination with the circus, and the
Street theatre. In
theme is a recurring one in his work over
1798 he opened his
many decades. On display are four original
Royal Amphitheatre
circus posters and two programmes from
in Peter Street, near
the gallery’s Yeats Archive, and some of
Christchurch, where
Jack B.’s colourful oil paintings.
he was granted a monopoly on circus
Visitors will have the opportunity to see the programmes for Duffy’s Circus, ANTHOLOGY SUMMER 2018 97
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Chadwick’s Circus, John Scott’s Circus,
early circuses show how they competed to
and Sanger and Sons, which promoted
draw visitors to their attractions.
long-forgotten feature acts such as the Ris-
To bring the fun and spectacle of the
ley Acrobats, The Jaspers, and Phineas and
Big Top to the exhibition, the gallery has
Aida, supported by troupes of performing
organised circus-themed performances and
ponies, chariot races and ‘Funny Clowns’.
workshops. A free brochure to complement
Also on show are Barnum & Bailey’s pro-
the exhibition is available in the gallery.
gramme from an 1899 tour of Britain and a Duffy’s circus ‘Programme and Songbook’.
Circus250: Art of the Show runs until
Four antique promotional posters from
14 October 2018.
ABOVE: (TOP) Martin Gale, The Arrival; (Middle) Mainie Jellett, Under the Big Top at a Circus. © National Gallery; (Bottom) Mary Swanzy, Clown by Candlelight. RIGHT: Percy Gethin, Travelling Circus.
98 SUMMER 2018 ANTHOLOGY
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01/07/18 19:25
See Exquisite Pieces of Crystal manufactured before your eyes
Guided Factory Tours Daily Waterford Brand & Visitor Experience
On social media: www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com Email: houseofwaterfordcrystal@fiskars.com Phone: +353 (0) 51 317000
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Summer 2018 Issue 07
15 Duke St, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 531 0135 Email: dukestreet@beostores.com Web: www.nuconnect.ie
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