FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 11, 2016
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page 3 4 escapes
Go North!
What We’ve Learned
7 escapes
8 fashion
Travel Tidbits
Holy Mountain 10 bites
12 bites
Into the Wild
Prime Views
14 BK Now
15 BK Now
Gig Guide
Now Screening
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A checklist of BK Magazine’s most important discoveries this week Live music is slowly bouncing back The end of November heralds a busy time for Bangkok’s indie gig-goers. Just announced in the last week are gigs by international acts Blood Orange (Nov 25), Marching Church (Nov 26) and oOoOO (Dec 2). They join the likes of Lucy Rose (Nov 23) and Yo La Tengo (Dec 4), and we hear there’ll be some more big announcements in the coming weeks. The world’s most famous photojournalist is exhibiting in Bangkok Steve McCurry, known for his iconic, green-eyed “Afghan Girl” photograph which graced the cover of National Geographic in 1985, will showcase his life’s work at Ekkamai’s House of Lucie, a new art space from the people behind Rooftop Gallery from Nov 14. The subject of the portrait, Sharbat Gula, now in her forties, was recently threatened with deportation from Pakistan under the charge of faking her identity. Glitter cocktails are a thing Klongsan’s newly opened restaurant The Clock Out (goo. gl/uCQZar) serves some spectacular drinks. The so-called “shimmer” cocktails are glittery gold and purple vodka-centric concoctions which look like galaxies in a glass. We don’t know exactly how the bartenders do it—and maybe we don’t want to know—but the drinks sure do look pretty. Proper Western junk food is having a moment Thanks to chef Katherine Aphaivongs’ 10 years spent living in the U.S., you can now savor the artery-clogging goodness of real-deal hashbrowns and gravy-covered biscuits at the new City Skyline Diner (see page 10). More exotic in your tastes? Bangkok now even has authentically inauthentic Chinese food by way of the States (Fortune Cookie) and Britain (Golden Bowl). See which we ranked least-offensive here (goo.gl/ JKgn1v). Toast is officially a food group That bit on page 13 where we list a restaurant’s specialties as “pastas, salads and toasts” is not a typo. We’ve had a word with our millennialist gen-y buddies on this one, and it’s official: toast is a proper meal. What’s more, it’s totally acceptable to open a restaurant based around something that requires the culinary skills of an eight year old to make.
BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 51 times a year, every Friday of each month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2016 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250
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@bkmagazine BK Magazine Friday, November 11, 2016
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cover story
Winter Retreats Credit: Narit Uaesakulporncharoen
Four alternative destinations to enjoy Thailand’s cool season. By Monruedee Jansuttipan
Doi Miang, Pai
Credit: TAT Udon Thani
BUENG KAN AND NONG KHAI
Phu Huay Esan
Credit: TAT Udon Thani
Credit: Khao Khiang Khong Homestay
Hin Sam Wan, Bueng Kan
Phu Tok, Bueng Kan
Isaan’s northernmost provinces are really emerging as must-visit destinations, offering the kind of mist-shrouded views you’d normally have to travel far up north to witness. Thailand’s youngest province, Bueng Kan is home to Phu Thok, a 359-meter-high sandstone mountain that has become a goal of many travelers seeking something different. Phu Thok (which means "Lonely Mountain" in the Isaan dialect) has two peaks: Phu Thok Yai and Phu Thok Noi, which is the only part currently open. Visitors hike along a narrow wooden bridge that circulates the cliff in order to reach its peak. The thrilling walk ascends seven different levels before you reach the summit, where you’ll be greeted by Wat Jetiyakhiri Viharn, aka Wat Phu Tok. The 400-meter-long bridge to reach the temple was hand-built by locals and took five years to finish. Another of Bueng Kan’s highlights, the strange-but-beautiful geography of Hin Sam Wan features three giant rock formations that look like
a trio of whales. Visitors are free to walk on the giant, 75-million-year rocks, situated in Phu Singh Forest Park, but be careful: there isn’t any safety railing. It’s a popular spot to catch the sunrise. In the neighboring Nong Khai province, Sangkhom district on the edge of Mekong River is a must-visit, dubbed the "sea of mist" town in Isaan. A new, all-glass skywalk sticks out from the cliff at Wat Pha Tak Sue, offering a spectacular 500-meter-high viewpoint that’ll get your heartbeat racing. For something a little less thrilling, Phu Huay Esan is a small hill right beside the Mekong River in Ban Huay Muang, an upcoming destination for its misty vistas that only appear in winter. You can only reach the peak via a local car service which runs every morning. It's B450 for tents and B2,000 for rooms at Khao Kiang Khong Home Stay for 4-10 people. Contact 087219-5500 or 089-769-4856 to find out the meeting point. Contact: TAT Udon Thani, 042-325-406-7
MAE HONG SON
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illa.com), which just unveiled three new villas. Rates start at B8,837 for the villas and B5,600 for deluxe rooms. Coffee addicts should head to Baan Huay Hom (089-555-3900, 089-854-0914, goo.gl/ vvswEn) in HM King Bhumibol's Mae La Noi Royal Project, where the small Pga K'nyau village tribe grows a strain of coffee used in Starbucks’ Muan Jai Thai coffee blend. The coffee harvest begins in mid-November and visitors are welcome to join the villagers' routine till mid-January. This is also the only village in Thailand where they weave sheep’s wool, a project initiated by HM Queen Sirikit. Accommodation here is limited to homestays within the community at B150 per person excluding meals (which are charged at B70 per meal). While you’re there, make sure you eat at Guaytiew Chomview, a small noodle shop in Pang Ma Pha district's Jabo village—the steaming bowls of noodles come with bonus views of the Mae Hong Son mountains. Contact: TAT Mea Hong Son, 053-612-982-3
Kho Gu So Bridge
Credit: Worapoj Tragunbangkhla
This year, there’s good reason to head back to Mae Hong Son’s tourist utopia of Pai thanks to new attractions at Pam Bok village. The newly built Kho Gu So Bamboo Bridge (meaning “merit bridge” in Thai) was built to connect the village with the nearby Huay Khai Khiri House of Priests and spans 815 meters across rice paddy fields. In the same area, Pam Bok Waterfall features a 15-meter-high cascade flanked by a crevasse. Up in the mountains, Doi Thong and Doi Miang are on the travel wish-lists of all sunset seekers. You’ll find four guestrooms in the area, powered by electricity from solar cells and costing B500 per night, as well as four-man tents to rent at B400 per night. Traveling to Doi Thong and Doi Miang requires help from the village’s tourism unit (063-123-9022, 089-261-8986, www.fb.com/cbt.pambok) as you’ll need a fourwheel drive vehicle to reach the peak. Rides starting from Pai center cost B300 per person, or you can charter a truck for B2,200. For a more luxurious stay, check out Puripai Villa (puripaiv-
Doi Miang, Pai
Pam Bok Waterfall
BK Magazine Friday, November 11, 2016
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NAN
cover story NAN
Toobna Homestay
Credit: Oun I Mang
Wang Sila Lang
Away from its town center, Nan’s popularity for beautiful landscapes is really growing, especially in Pua district. This sleepy rural hill town surrounded by rice fields is home to hidden natural gems that are quickly becoming a sensation. Known as the little Grand Canyon of Nan province, Wang Sila Lang was formed over millions of years by the Goon River as it eroded a crack in the Pua fault line. Today, the sheer gorge traces its way through beautiful scenery. The water level is relatively low during winter, which means you can easily walk along the gorge, following it upstream. Just 500 meters away, Parkor Cafe & Food at Hua Nam Mushroom Farm (054-792-252, 081-005-1533, www. huanamhomestay.com) provides a filling meal of all things mushroom, from omelet to pizza. Its dining tables also offer killer views of the vegetable farm during winter and rice terraces in the rainy season. Check into one of their country-style rooms (starting from B1,500) to enjoy those same views round the clock. If you want to extend your trip, the oneyear-old Toobna Homestay (094-143-1969, www.toobna.com) is a boutique guesthouse with equally stunning views. They just finished adding some gorgeous new bamboo huts, and
Doi Suan Ya Luang
the B1,800 rate includes a freshly cooked traditional kan tok—a full-course Northern-style meal served on a bamboo tray. For somewhere that taps into the traditional architectural style of the Tai Lue hilltribe, Sri Inpan (081-4233584, 086-510-0707) provides rooms for up to four people for B4,500 including a Thai breakfast. And don’t leave Pua without taking a coffee break at Baan Thai Lue (054-792-371, 089264-6058), where you’ll find panoramic views of the mountain, as well as local clothes shop Lum Duan Par Tor (www.fb.com/lumduanpartroshop), which sells tie-die dresses for B200 and homespun garments from B1,500. Make sure you schedule some time for the surrounding Tha Wang Pha district for the Doi Suan Ya Luang grassland. Bo Klua is also worth including in your itinerary if only for the tiny resort of Oun I Mang (081-374-7004, goo. gl/8F73pY). This popular destination has relocated to an enticing spot right by a stream from the Wa River, the longest white-water rafting course in Thailand. Rates start from B900-1,200 per person, per night, while a day trip of rafting and sightseeing (including the terrace rice and vegetable fields of Pieng Sor district) costs B2,000. Contact: TAT Prae, 054-521-118
CHIANG RAI Chiang Rai and nearby areas, including Chalermchai. The largest piece at 17 meters long was drawn by 60 artists late last month in front of the gallery. All works will be shown from Dec 24-Mar 30. From Dec 17-18, they’re also offering basic and advance courses in Japanese shibori indigo dye. It costs B2,000 per course or B3,800 for two courses. Make the most of Chiang Rai’s stunning scenery with a visit to the new viewpoint of Phu Chi Dao, which offers 360-degree vistas over a sea of morning mist—its name means "mountain that points at the stars." It’s a 200meter trek to the peak, but first you have to reach Baan Rom Poh Nergn military base, from where you take a four-wheel-drive ride to the trek’s starting point (B500 per car round-trip).
Khua Silapa
Contact: TAT Chiang Rai, 053-717-433, 053-744674-5
Doi Tung Tree Top Walk
Credit: TAT Chiang Rai
Chiang Rai’s white temple Wat Rong Khun now has a new colorful counterpart, Wat Rong Sua Ten, which opened earlier this year. Its designer, local artist Phutha “Salanok” Kabkaew, is a protege of Wat Rong Khun’s creator, the revered Chalermchai Kositpipat. Also new to the area, Doi Tung Tree Top Walk (053-767-015-6, www.fb.com/DoiTungClub) inside The Mae Fah Luang Garden is a 295-meter-long walkway 30 meters above the ground, where visitors can view coffee plantations and the vetiver grass plantation where King Bhumibol spent years conducting research. Entrance costs B150, which goes to the Mae Fah Luang Foundation under royal patronage for sustainable community development, a scheme initiated by the late Princess Mother Srinagarindra. At Art Bridge Chiang Rai (088-418-5431, www.fb.com/ArtBridgeChiangRai), aka Khua Silapa, you’ll also discover a large exhibition commemorating King Bhumibol, with contributions from more than 200 artists from around
Rong Sue Ten Temple
MUST-VISIT ROYAL PROJECTS Spread across Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Mae Hong Son, Lamphun and Phayao, HM the King’s 38 agricultureal initiatives in Northern Thailand are responsible for the successful cultivation of high-altitude crops like strawberries, arabica coffee, peaches, plums, avocados, kiwi fruit and passion fruit. Many of these projects have become popular natural attractions in their own right. Here are the ones to visit this winter. ROYAL PROJECT KHUN WANG, CHIANG MAI
Angkhang Station
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Situated in Inthanon National Park , this area was once home to wide-scale opium plantations before it was developed into a Royal Project in 1980. The local Pga K'nyau and Hmong tribes now make their living from growing fruits and vegetables. The phraya sue krong , aka wild Himalayan cherry blossoms, will be in full bloom in early January.
PANG UNG ROYAL INITIATIVE PROJECT (PANG TONG 2), MAE HONG SON Surrounded by mountains, this forest station has lovingly become known as the Switzerland of Thailand. At the reservoir, you can wake early to watch the sun rise while floating unhurriedly on a raft surrounded by fog. Read about other beautiful reservoirs at goo.gl/NAiOQq.
PHA TANG ROYAL PROJECT, CHIANG RAI Only nine years old, this agriculture station is getting famous for its wild cherry blossoms (visit in January). The nearby Doi Pha Tang offers stunning 360-degree views of the Thai and Lao border. See more of Thailand’s most beautiful mountains at goo.gl/ wxKxfX.
ROYAL AGRICULTURAL ANGKHANG STATION, CHIANG MAI Doi Angkhang has long been known as the place where HM the King’s Royal Projects began, in a bid to rid the Northern hills of opium fields. Some 40 years later, the valley is a lush green, replete with p o p u l a r at t ra c t i o n s . T h e highlight strawberry, plum and tea plantations are at their most splendid in the morning. Read our full guide at goo.gl/ yOoXbc.
PANG KHA ROYAL PROJECT, PHA YAO Founded in 1987, this project supports local hill tribes to grow high-altitude fruits and vegetables such as oranges, avocados, zucchini and, the highlight, giant pumpkins. Nearby attractions include Khun Nam Tom Waterfall and Doi Phu Lanka, with its iconic karsts standing out against the flat landscape.
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escapes ESCAPE ROUTES By Monruedee Jansuttipan
CHIANG MAI
Art & Crafts The luxurious Akyra Manor (053-216-219, www.theakyra.com/chiang-mai) supports the work of Chiang Mai’s artists and craftspeople with its new exhibition series. Running for three months as of now, the project features the work of three local talents. As well as paintings from Vichit Chaiwong, the veteran Chiang Mai artist behind one of Chiang Mai’s oldest galleries, Vichit Studio, there will be craftwork from Bua Bhat, a factory making upcycled soft furnishings, and Cotton Farm, which makes organic textile designs.
AIRWAYS
More India After terminating its Bangkok-Kolkata route two years ago, Thai AirAsia (www.airasia. com) is returning to the city as of Dec 16 with daily flights through till Oct 28, 2017. Return flights start from B5,560 (that’s B1,890 for the outbound leg but B3,671 from Kolkota to Bangkok). If you fancy going further across the Indian Ocean, Malaysia’s AirAsia just launched another direct route from Kuala Lumpur to Mauritius, the small island paradise off the coast of East Africa. Flights take off from Kuala Lumpur every Tuesday, Friday and Sunday, while arrivals happen every Monday, Wednesday and Saturday. The cheapest return trip from Bangkok we found is B17,615, but comes with a painful layover of at least a day for departure and 12 hours for arrival. Still, the normal price with other full-service airlines with a layover at Singapore or Kuala Lumpur will set you back at B28,000-48,000.
HOTELS
Double Take Le Meridien hotel chain has just opened two properties back to back. On the beachfront of Quingdao city’s Lingshan Bay, Le Meridien Qingdao West Coast Resort (goo.gl/wq5YKQ) offers 218 rooms overlooking the sea, bringing a touch of resort culture to the business-oriented town. If you’re a fan of China’s beer Tsingtao, head during their International Beer Festival in Jul-Aug next year. Room rates start at CNY590 (B3,053). In Malaysia, Le Meridien Putrajaya (www.lemeridien.com/putrajaya) tempts golfers to the administrative city with an 18-hole IOI Palm Garden Golf Course next door. They’re offering opening rates of MYR360 (B3,026). Other nearby attractions include the Botanic Gardens and the distinctive pink-domed Putra Mosque.
LAOS
Sabaidee Luang Prabang The Luang Prabang Film Festival 2016 (www.lpfilmfest.org ) returns for the seventh time this Dec 2-7. The six-day event will shine a light on the best new ASEAN films. Alongside three new Lao films, there will also be flicks from Thailand, Malaysia, Cambodia, Vietnam, Malaysia, Philippines and Myanmar, whose City of Jade (2016), a documentary film following the country’s jade miners made by Myanmar-born Taiwanese director Midi Z, looks to be a particular highlight. As the World Heritage town lacks a real cinema, the festival's main venue will be an outdoor screen at the Handicraft Market, the town’s main square, with events also held at Sofitel Luang Prabang, the newly rebranded five-star resort previously Hotel de la Paix. Room rates start at about B10,202.
FREE DOWNLOAD! WHERE Hot Spots 2016 covers the hottest new openings in Bangkok, Hua Hin, Phuket, Koh Samui, Krabi and Chiang Mai. Get your free copy today at bkmagazine.com/hotspots2016. BK Magazine Friday, November 11, 2016
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FASHION
God’s Country Vick’s, the younger sister brand of local high-fashion label Vickteerut, is back with a new fall/winter collection called “Valley of the Whispering Hill.” The inspiration comes from Salvation Mountain, a colorful artwork in the Colorado Desert created by artist Leonard Knight over 30 years to show his devotion to God. The collection is not as vibrant as Knight’s work, however, with items like embroidered jeans, multicolor striped shirts and tube tops paying homage to the original artwork through brownish-purple tones. The collection also features limited-edition patchwork items by Parn Chanaradee Chatrakul Na Ayudhya of Bangkok arts and crafts studio Juli Baker and Summer. Prices start at B1,450. Vick’s Flagship Store, Ari Soi 2, 02-2791260. Open daily 10:30am-8:30pm. BTS Ari. www.vicksweekend.com
TECH
FASHION
TECH
I Have a Watch
Local Kicks
Best Buds
The new Apple Watch Nike+ is so loud and energizing in its black and fluorescent yellow livery, you’ll feel like you can sprint faster just from looking at it. Serious runners will scoff at its performance as a tracker, though. While the Apple Watch 2 is now GPS-enabled, reviewers say it’s not nearly as precise as dedicated devices by Garmin or Polar. But you want one anyway and you have even convinced yourself that it’s an investment in your health. Go for it. With a new water resistance rating of 50 meters, a faster processor and a new OS, the Watch 2 makes its predecessor look like a messy first draft. B13,900/14,900 (38mm/42mm case) at an Apple reseller near you or www.apple.com
Horselegmarking’s artist-and-founder Chalisa Pornmuttawarong turns everyday Thai culture into vivid prints for sneakers. The brand made its debut two years ago showcasing its ethical product design at Japan’s Rooms Trade Show, and is now back in town for Bangkokians to enjoy. The first collection takes inspiration from rod-e-taen, the Northeastern Thai all-purpose truck, and comes in three eye-popping patterns: butterflies and flowers, hawks, and diamonds. The sneakers are made from extra-soft cotton handprinted with silk-screens, rubber sole and suede waxed cotton lace. Available as both high- and low-ankle kicks, at prices starting from B3,290. 320 Maha Raj Rd., 081-470-9895. Open daily 9:30am-7pm. www.fb.com/horselegmarking
Motorola has launched two new wireless earphones, Verve Ones and Verve Ones+, under the brand VerveLife. The earphones look like earpieces, with no cord to tangle up, and are designed to be highly portable to meet the needs of exercise freaks. They fit snugly in your ears, and promise to deliver stereo, rich HD sound. The in-ear Smart Sensor and echo-canceling microphone help you answer your calls while listening to music—and you can even use Siri and Google Now through them. The headphones also record your last location, and in case of emergency, send the information to a pre-set contact with just the push of a button. The Verve Ones are priced at B7,990, and their sweat- and water-proof sister the Verve Ones+ at B8,990, available at Jaymart and iStudio outlets nationwide. Compatible with Android and iOS.
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bites & blends
DOWNLOAD BEST EATS 2016 FOR FREE And discover Bangkok's best casual restaurants. bkmagazine.com/besteats
RESTAURANT
Get Wild The land that used to be pre-game nightlife institution Stu-fe now opens with a meaty new concept. Wild & Co. takes you into the wilderness with both its forest-y interior and carnivorous food, served in two stylish glass houses. Heading the kitchen, Chatphon Thavornvanit (who’s also behind Munchies sausages) focuses on hefty meat dishes, especially game, rolling out things like baked bacon-wrapped rabbit with kidney, liver and greens dressed with rabbit jus (B690) and quail salad (B390), as well as Australian Angus tomahawk (B3,290 for 1.2kg). One glasshouse is dedicated to the bar, which serves classic cocktails and the odd spirit-forward conconction. 33/1 Soi Farm Wattana, Rama 4 Rd., 087-999-9948
EVENT
RESTAURANT
CAFE
Road to Rehab
City Diner
Backyard Veggies
From Nov 15-19, the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit hotel welcomes to Rossini's chef Fabio Rossi of Vite. His restaurant in Italy is part of San Patrignano, a community of ex-addicts who use cooking and farming as a form of rehabilitation. This year, Michelin inspectors praised the restaurant for its use of produce grown on the community’s farm, while also providing careers for its members. In Bangkok, Rossi will present five- and six-course sets paired with wine (B5,000-6,500) as well as an a la carte menu. Dishes include warm prawn carpaccio with lamb's lettuce salad and foie gras (B820), and braised Aulente veal cheek with oven-roasted endive and thyme-orange potato cream (B1,450). The chef himself serves a wine dinner (B4,500) on Nov 18. 1/F, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-649-8364. BTS Asok
Asoke’s new diner City Skyline serves hearty meals the American way: burgers (from B225), macaroni and cheese (B255), ribs (from B255), onion rings (B125) and a whole lot more. Owner Katherine Aphaivongs honed her recipes over 10 years spent living in the US, lending her American comfort food real credibility. We especially love the breakfasts, served from as early as 7am on weekdays and consisting of the likes of country fried steak and eggs with milk gravy (B195), biscuits with eggs and milky sausage gravy (B155) and stacks of six-inch pancakes (B115). Finish your meal with an apple pie (B155) or other house-baked items. 36/9 Sukhumvit Soi 21, 02-664-4300
Ari’s friendly hostel The Yard welcomes a tiny new eatery on its property. Located in the same courtyard as the hipster burger spot Paper Butter, Lilou goes on a completely different route into vegetarian and healthy bites. Owner Nuanwan Supertpanish (also a partner of Laliart coffee) sources chemical-free vegetables from Baan Ka in Ratchaburi and crafts everything in-house, including her various experimental breads, pastries and syrups. Visit on the weekend to taste main dishes like grilled tofu with housemade teriyaki sauce and salad (B150), egg and avocado on bread (B120) and Burmese tea-leaf salad with rice (B150). She also sells the same hilltribe-grown coffee as Laliart here, as espresso (B50) or part of concoctions like the lemon-honey-flavored “Shakerato” (B80). The Yard, 51 Phahonyothin Soi 5, 089-677-4050
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bites FOOD REVIEWS
Rosemary by Madame Tuang HHHH Western. G/F, The Taste, Thonglor Soi 11, 02-7125998. Open daily 11am-10:30pm. BTS Thong Lo. Corkage charge B500. BBB-BBBB F
Rosemary is the first restaurant of celebrity chef, cooking instructor and cookbook author Ubolrat “Madame Tuang” Chawteerapluk. Located at the back of food-centric Thonglor community mall The Taste, Rosemary maximizes its views over Thonglor Soi 10 with floor-to-ceiling windows, while minimal, Euro-evoking accessories like whitewashed chairs and art-deco lanterns create a casual all-day-dining kind of space. The menu focuses on French and Italian comfort dishes, with plenty of expensive imported ingredients like 150 -day grain-fed Australian Angus tomahawk (B3,200/ kg) and Maine lobster (B2,100/700800g), as well as simpler salads, soups, pastas and seafood dishes. There are hits and misses. Skip Madame Tuang’s
Barrio Bonito HHHH Mexican. G/F, The Commons, Thonglor Soi 17, 092-331-5203. Open daily noon-11pm. Corkage charge B300. BBB F G
Established almost a decade ago on Koh Chang, Barrio Bonito is recognized as one of the top restaurants on the island, as evidenced by countless gushing tributes on Tripadvisor. Fair to say, many were excited to see the Mexican restaurant open in Bangkok at the turn of the year. Good news is it mostly delivers on the hype. Unlike at other new-wave Mexican openings like Mejico and Touche Hombre, you won’t find too much talk of fancy twists or high-falutin ingredients; just fullflavored Mexican tacos, burritos, ceviche and other antojitos (appetizers). The guacamole (B220), served in crispy corn tortilla cones inside a cardboard egg carton, transcends gimmickry with a blend of avocado, cheese and pomegranate that’s smooth and tasty. Here, it’s all about small plates, and we mean small. Even with sensible ordering, you can get through most of the menu. The mini burritos (B140/1 piece) burst with wellseasoned beef but are gone before you know it. Better yet is the chalupitas de
signature black squid-ink buns stuffed with melted mozzarella cheese (Black Magic, B120), which are pretty tasteless even with the honey dip. It’s a similar story with another of the signatures, a “ lod chong ” cake (B110) made from vanilla chiffon cake, pandan jelly and candle-smoked coconut mousse. We love that she’s tried to tone down the sweetness of traditional lod chong (pandan noodles in coconut syrup) but the cake is too dry. The rosemary chicken (B460) is also dry, and the overcooked meat can’t be saved by a sweet truffle sauce. Other proteins are treated with more care, like the springy tiger prawn that comes with the spicy angel hair pasta (B575). Shame the mentaiko (fish roe) and ebiko (shrimp roe) sauce doesn’t capture the intense, salty flavor of the sea. The only dish which really delivers is the grilled French sea bream (B890), its fresh and juicy f lesh complemented by an aromatic and well-rounded lemon butter sauce. While Rosemary’s menu does offer abundant variety, as well as some especially gorgeous cocktails (from B220), we’d have enjoyed dinner more had we gone round the corner to the much-better French restaurant 4 Garcons. Sure, they specialize in set menus and the atmosphere’s lesscasual, but the bill will probably be around the same.
chorizo (B240/3 pieces), a mouthwateringly salty morsel of homemade chorizo and beans atop a flaky corn tortilla—better make that a double order. The relatively hearty cold shrimp salad (B320) benefits from plump shrimp and a tamarind- and habanero-laced tomato dressing. Unfortunately, the overly dry lamb barbacoa tacos (B140/piece), with their daubs of non-descript peanut sauce, do not pack the same kick (though there’s little the scorching salsa verde can’t fix). Dominated by a painting of the iconic Day of the Dead female figure with a skeleton mask, this is one of the more characterful kiosks in The Commons’ mess hall-like “market zone.” However, a bar counter and handful of awkwardly high tables can’t stop dining here from feeling like an upscale food court experience, for better or worse. Our last visit on a Friday night saw the place heaving as an acoustic duo whipped up the raucous sense of occasion you find at Seenspace down the road. What the mall’s open-plan setup won’t give you is the intimacy of a standalone like Tacos & Salsa—though the Mexican-French owners make their presence felt with warm greetings and helpful explanations of the menu. On the plus side, you can top up your meal with, say, a tiramisu from Peppina (Barrio Bonito doesn’t do dessert) or an esoteric imported beer from Beer Cap (if the excellent mezcal and tequila cocktails, from B250, don’t do it for you). Barrio Bonito serves down-to-earth Mexican fare in a communal setting that’s fun, if perhaps a bit full-on.
Ratings
Price guide
PPPP Forget it PPPP Only if you’re in the neighborhood PPPP A pleasant dining experience PPPP Not to be missed
B BB BBB BBBB
BK pays for its meal and does not call ahead or sit with the chef.
Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.
Symbols
H Reservations recommended F Parking available E Dress requirements G Live music
BK Magazine Friday, November 4, 2016
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bites
OPEN DOOR
Above Riva The riverside's latest bar and restaurants gets prime Wat Arun views. The buzz: Riva Surya boutique hotel’s Babble & Rum restaurant is a regular fixture on lists of Bangkok’s best riverside venues. Now its sister hotel, Riva Arun, has popped up in Tha Tien (the area right opposite Wat Arun), offering this rooftop bar and restaurant with equally scenic views of the Chao Phraya River. The decor: Head up the four floors—stairs only—and you’ll be greeted by a nearly-entirely alfresco terrace where simple white tablecloths set a tone that’s classy but relaxed. Up here, it’s all about those views, and practically every table in the place has a prime front seat. Casual drinkers can sit at the bar. And don’t worry if it starts to rain—a fully retractable roof ensures your dinner will remain dry.
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The food: They describe it as a twist on Thai cuisine, combining local flavors with international ingredients and dishes. The same team as Riva Surya leads the kitchen, serving up the likes of squid and salted eggs presented as crispy calamari tossed with ebiko (Japanese prawn eggs) and served with salted egg yolk aioli sauce and yum tua pu (B380), a shellfish and wing bean salad featuring langoustines, Mediterranean mussels and deep-fried avocado. Bigger plates resemble Western protein-centric dishes with Thai touches, like grilled halibut choo chee (B630), a chunk of grilled halibut served with creamy red curry—and the Italian-style osso bucco (braised veal shank, B720) in massaman curry, both served with truffle mashed potato. For something sweet, try the dense creme brulee cheesecake (B180).
The drinks: The thick menu covers most moods, from whiskey (B200-B260) and beer (B180-B320) to signature cocktails like "One More Please" (B275) a berry-based vodka concoction. There are also smoothies (B160) and mocktails like the Berry Sunset (cranberry juice, strawberry juice and sour-mix, B160) for teetotalers. Why you should care: Finally, this part of the river has somewhere other than The Deck and Sala Rattanakosin to offer. With the yearend set to bring with it that short-lived winter breeze, make your reservations early. Natcha Sanguankiattichai 4/F, Riva Arun, 392/25-26 Maharaj Rd., 02-221-1188. Open daily 7:30am-11:30am, 6pm-11:30pm.
BK Magazine Friday, November 11, 2016
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Blue Whale Maharaj
Cylub
The Black Forest
80/20
NEW AND NOTED
Whale of a Time New nautical cafe Blue Whale Maharaj (397/37 Maha Raj Rd., 081-641-4514) is three stories of photogenic interiors and equally photogenic food. The walls are covered in gradated blue and green tiles that mimic the scales of a fish and sketches of sea creatures drawn by one of the owners. Even drinks stick to the color scheme, led by the butterfly pea latte (B90 hot, B120 iced), a social media hit. Elsewhere on the menu are small bites like charcoal toasts (with toppings like blueberries and coffee mascarpone or peanut butter-banana-nutella, starting at B130) and more substantial dishes like salmon teriyaki with rice (B220).
Join the Club Old Town bike shop Eight Ridar now also caters to regular officefolk as well as cyclists. What once was a small counter serving only pick-me-up coffees to customers is now Cylub (202 Krungkasem Rd., 02-628-8448), a full-blown food spot. Savory
TABLE TALK
dishes include a wide variety of salads (from B120), pastas (from B120) and toasts (from B110) while desserts are made in-house and range from low-fat ice creams with flavors like cognac (B250) to beautifully decorated cakes. On top of the regularly changing coffee blends (B50 for a latte), you'll find Harry Potter-inspired, caramel-flavor butterbeer (B80), and a variety of smoothies (B80).
Down to the Woods A short walk from BTS Bearing, The Black Forest cafe (45/1 Sukhumvit Soi 107 [Bearing], between Bearing soi 3 and 5, 081819-8145) takes heavy inspiration from Grimms’ Fairy Tales. That means three stories decked out with dark woods, dense greenery and the odd ghoulish touch. Food also sees German standards like schnitzel (B150) and sausages (B180) alongside classic cafe fare like waffles (starting B150). They serve coffee beans from local purveryor Roast with a few twists, like the Briar Rose affogato (B110) which comes with a scoop of berry ice cream. Tessa Domzalski
1052-1054 Charoenkrung Rd., 087-593-1936. Open Mon, Wed-Fri 6pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 10am-2pm (brunch), 6pm-midnight The Charoenkrung eatery draws on local ingredients to concoct experimental cuisine with Western touches. Chef Napol Jantraget heads the kitchen, rolling out dishes few on ingredients yet big on flavors like the smoked duck breast, which only plays with pumpkin and duck. For more bold Thai flavors, try the lamb tartare in Isaan dressing, served with jungle vegetable puree, cricket crumble and local herbs. Don’t overlook the harmonious basil and pumpkin dessert. There’s also a nine-course chef’s table experience (omakase style) by chef Napol at the bar counter, right in front of the kitchen. Get complimentary dessert when spending via Citi credit cards (Limit 1 dish /card /table /sales slip) Today - 31 Oct 17.
BK Magazine Friday, November 11, 2016
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SAT The Big Read The popular Neilson Hays Book Sale returns to the library for one weekend, offering quality English books in all genres and a sizable collection of classic and contemporary leather-bound books, all at bargain prices that start from just B20. All proceeds will go towards the library's renovation and restoration plans. Nov 1213, 9:30am. Neilson Hays Library, 195 Surawong Rd., 02-233-1731.
TUE Hot Shots Twin Vietnamese artists known as the Le Brothers explore the cultural identity and social issues of post-war Vietnam in their new exhibition, The Game | Vietnam. The series of mixed media works includes a 24-channel video installation, a collection of photography works and an archive of posters, maps and books from the postwar period. Nov 2-Feb 19 2017, 6pm. Jim Thompson House & Art Center, Soi Kasem San 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368.
SAT Spin Cycle Bangkok's boogie funk DJ/music producer spins a four-hour vinyl set of disco, boogie and funk at Studio Lam's DJs on Rotation with Gramaphone Children. Nov 12, 9pm. Studio Lam, Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661. Free. BTS Thong Lo.
NIGHTLIFE
UPCOMING GIGS
Lucy Rose
Ivy Lab
KONTRABAND FEAT. IVY LAB AT SAFE ROOM
The DJ trio from north London, who were named among Mixmag's top 10 DJs of 2015, are supported by Bangkok's DeLorean, Azek and Will. Nov 11, 9pm. Whiteline, Silom Soi 8, 087-0611117. B250. BTS Chong Nonsi. ROB MANGA PRESENTED BY SABAI SABAI RADIO
The Dutch DJ spins soulful electronic tracks at Thonglor's super-cool hidden dive bar with support from Juice Willis and Maarten Goetheer. Nov 12, 8pm. 12 x 12, Soi Thararom 2, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor). B100. RETOX SESSIONS PRESENTS SOLOMUN & ANDRE HOMMEN
Mixmag's DJ of the Year in 2012 teams up with the German DJ known for "No Difference" at Asok's underground nightclub. Supported by Sunju Hargun.
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Nov 12, 9pm. Glow, 96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 086-614-3355. B850. MRT Sukhumvit. BOBBY O'DONNELL AND ALEX IMIX PRESENTED BY TRANSPORT
The Resident DJ of Britain's Mint Club joins Ce La Vie's Alex Imix with support from Brent Burns and Seelie & Persual in the upstairs Safe Room. Nov 12, 10pm. Whiteline, Silom Soi 8, 087061-1117. B150. BTS Chong Nonsi. BOLLYWOOD NIGHT - DJ LEMON PRESENTED BY DESI TRIBE
One of India's top DJs spins a mixture of EDM beats and Bollywood tunes. Nov 18, 9pm. Live RCA Bangkok, RCA, Rama 9 Rd., 098-974-6974. B500-1,200. HUCCI AT LIVE RCA
The much-hyped British trap DJ and producer performs at RCA's best live
Solomun
music venue. Presented by Hype. Nov 19, 9pm. Live RCA Bangkok, RCA, Rama 9 Rd., 098-9746974. B490-550. BAAN MEANS HOUSE - THE VOYAGE
DJ Moreno spins house and techno with support from French DJ Jazzie C, a resident of Koh Phangan's infamous Full Moon Party. Nov 19, 10pm. Whiteline, Silom Soi 8, 087-061-1117. B100-200. BTS Chong Nonsi.
Yo La Tengo
KICKS FEST
OOOOO
This mini music festival features international bands Valley of Chrome (Philippines) and James and the Van Der Beeks (Vietnam) supported by Bangkok locals Falling in Between, Cursed Habit and Spitting Dicks. Tattoo studios BKK Ink and Hidden Hand will also be present, along with plenty of food trucks. Nov 11. Soy Sauce Bar, 11/1 Charoenkrung Soi 24, 061-8356824. B200.
The gloomy solo project of San Francisco-based musician Christopher Dexter Greenspan is often heralded as a pioneer of the "witch house" music genre. Greenspan will perform tracks from his 2013 LP Without Your Love and songs including "Burnout Eyes" and "Hearts." Tickets are B500 (including one drink) at the door. Dec 2. Whiteline, Silom Soi 8, 02-651-4164. BTS Chong Nonsi
LUCY ROSE
Gig organizers Have You Heard? present the American indie-rock trio who have put out 14 studio albums combining folk, shoegaze, mellow surf-rock and electronic sounds, including the critically adored I Can Hear the Heart Beating as One (1997). Support from Modern Dog. Tickets are B1,500 from Ticketmelon.com or B1,700 at the door. Dec 4. Voice Space, BBD Building, 197 Viphavadi Rangsit Rd.
YO LA TENGO
The English folk singer-songwriter behind collaborations with Bombay Bicycle Club and Manic Street Preachers makes her Bangkok debut. Supported from Stoondio, Phum and Youth Brush. Tickets are B750 from Ticketmelon.com or B850 at the door. Nov 23. Live RCA, RCA, Rama 9 Rd., 098-974-6974.
SMILE ENT. DARK BAR
MARCHING CHURCH
Superstar Panda, Charlie Kwenta and Andrea Settesoldi team up to rock the dance floor at Ekkamai's coolest nightclub with house, techno and deep house. Nov 19, 10pm. Dark Bar, 2/F, Ekamai Mall, Ekkamai Soi 10, 092-4466298. B150.
The Danish indie-rock band, led by Elias Bender Ronnenfelt (frontman of punk-rockers Ice Age) make their Bangkok debut. Expect tracks from their latest album Telling It Like It Is Presented by Popscene. Ticket info TBA. Nov 26. Jam, Charoen Rat Soi 1, 02-673-9009. BTS Surasak
MONO
The Japanese post-rock band promote their ninth studio album, Requiem for Hell. The four-piece instrumental band are best known for singles including "Where We Begin," "Requiem for Hell" and "Follow the Map." Ticket info TBA. Jan 17, 2017. Live RCA, RCA, Rama 9 Rd., 098-974-6974.
BK Magazine Friday, November 11, 2016
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FILM
Exhibitions Honoring HM the King
Opening (Nov 10)
NORM RUM LUEK NAI LUANG ROR GAO
The Royal Photographic Society of Thailand hosts an exhibition featuring 89 pictures from 89 Thai photographers inspired by the late king and his passion for photography. Through Nov 20. Bangkok Art and Culture Centre, 939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630. BTS National Stadium. THA SATIT NAI DUANG JAI
A special art exhibition showcasing the works of more than 30 contemporary Thai artists capturing the life and legacy of HM the King Bhumibol Adulyadej, totaling over 70 portraits and sculptures of the king at various stages of his life.
THE LIGHT BETWEEN OCEANS (USA)
INFERNO (USA)
Drama/Romance. A lighthouse keeper and his wife adopt an abandoned girl adrift at sea. Years later, they are faced with a moral dilemma when they discover her true parentage.
Mystery/Thriller. A symbologist (Tom Hanks) and a doctor (Felicity Jones) team up to stop a madman from unleashing a powerful virus that could wipe out humanity.
IN THE ROOM (SINGAPORE)
FANTASTIC BEASTS AND WHERE TO FIND THEM (UK)
Through Nov 25. Ratchadamnoen Contemporary Art Centre, 84 Ratchadamnoen Rd., 02-422-8827
ART
Romance. Six intertwining love stories take place across six decades, all set in a single-room brothel in the heart of Singapore.
Upcoming (Nov 17) BURNING LOVE
PIECED IMPRESSIONS: QUILTS BY KAREN SENGAL
Photographer Ram Kanjanavanit presents images capturing the daily lives of a young couple's relationship in a series that combines minimal composition with a color running method. Nov 12-Dec 28, 6pm. Kathmandu Photo Gallery, 87 Pan Rd., 02-234-6700.
An exhibition showcasing artistic quilts by Karen Sengal, whose work captures traditional Asian characters and symbols. Through Nov 27, 6pm. Neilson Hays Library, 195 Surawong Rd., 02-233-1731
Adventure. A young wizard named Newt Scamander (Eddie Redmayne) lands in 1926 New York after a global excursion to find magical creatures, only to realize some of them have escaped into the non-magical world.
SHUT IN (USA)
THIS BEAUTIFUL FANTASTIC (UK)
Drama/Thriller. After a deadly storm, a widowed psychologist (Naomi Watts) taking care of her paralyzed son (Jacob Tremblay) begins to suspect someone is hiding in their house and trying to harm them.
Romance. A reclusive young woman who dreams of becoming a children's author finds an unlikely mentor in the unfriendly man who lives next door. MOTEL MIST (THAI)
RAW
THAI SEASCAPE
Photographers Christian Hogue, Yossawat Kasemthirakun and Zuzanna Kowalska present a group exhibition of photographs capturing the cycle of life and death, the disappearance of nature and the power of technology. Nov 19-Jan 3 2017, 6pm. Kalwit Studio & Gallery, Soi Ruamrudee.
A group photo exhibition hosted by the CamereaEyes School of Photography involving 30 black and white fine art photographs capturing serene moments around the country. Nov 8-20, 6pm. Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC), 939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-2146630-8. BTS National Stadium
Fantasy. Prabda Yoon’s directorial debut follows the story of four romantic relationships as they spiral out of control within various rooms of a fantastical love motel just outside of Bangkok.
INTERN WITH US!
Wicked Snow specializes in bingsu, Korea’s softest ground snowflakes, in two flavors—milk and chocolate—you can enjoy all year long.
(EDITORIAL, MARKETING AND ART DEPT.)
You must be at least 18 years old You must send in a cover letter and resume. Specify which department you are applying for.
Open to Thai and foreign nationals (for Marketing, Thai nationals only).
Aside from the original red bean, soybean and green tea flavors, you can top your bingsu with mango, berry and choco. And don’t forget our teok-toast with three kinds of delicious toppings.
Internships are full-time, unpaid and last 3 months.
Candidates should be fluent in both Thai and English. Send your resume and a cover letter to jobs@asia-city.co.th
Let’s check in our Wicked Snow-Korean Dessert Café at I’m Park and Baan Rachakru.
Untitled-2 1
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I’m Park Chula
BaanRachakru
353 I’m Park Chula Building Soi Chulasoi5 Patumwan Bangkok. 0982753896
33 BaanRatchaKru PhaholYothin 5 Phayathai Bangkok. 0982753897
The-Wickedsnow-Thailand
wickedsnowbkk
BK Magazine Friday, November 11, 2016
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