BK Magazine 791 by BK Magazine

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NO. 791 OCT 9, 2020. www.bkmagazine.com

it's free! Hope Alone An award-winning filmmaker speaks about her stirring documentary Louk Here Michelin-starred Saneh Jaan opens an affordable offshoot in Chit Lom Between the Bars Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more than massage parlors on Sukhumvit Sois 20 and 22 Fizzle Out The best tonic waters on the market in Bangkok get put to the test

Hello, tourists NO. 791 OC TOBER 09, 2020. www.bkmagazine.com

! u o Y Needs

Why you should give the island paradise another look

food & drink

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 09, 2020

ADVERTORIAL

FEAST OF A DEAL

North to South Explore all of Thailand’s regional dishes at these local favorites Yoong Khao Hom

Supanniga Eating Room

Koh Samui’s two-decade-old Southern dining institution, Khao Hom, arrived at I’m Park community mall in Sam Yan in 2017. The guy behind the new branch is Teerapat “Bond” Lertsiriprapa (Kouen Sushi, Sushi Niwa), who promises the same tried and trusted family recipes as well as produce like kapi (shrimp paste) and curry paste flown in straight from the island.

One of Bangkok’s favorite Thai restaurants has built its reputation on delicate traditional plates bursting with strong, authentic flavors. The casual decor plays with the vivid yellow of Supanniga flowers, while other references to Eastern Thai culture abound. Don’t miss the pu jah (blended crabmeat and pork, seasoned with pepper and steamed inside crab shell), panang nuea lai (beef chunk in red curry) and moo cha muang (stewed pork with herbs and cha muang leaves).

Yoong Khao Hom, G/F, I’m Park, Chulin Soi 9, 063-465-6565. Open daily 11am-10pm

Supanniga Eating Room (Sathorn), 28 Sathorn Soi 10, 02-635-0349. Open daily 10:30am-1:30pm, 4:30-10:30pm. There are two other locations in Thonglor and Charoenkrung.

Get 10% discount on food only 01 Jan ’20 - 31 Dec ’20

Somtum Der Khon Kaen-native restaurateur Thanaruek Laoraowirodge and chef Kornthanut Thongnum’s original blond-wood and bamboo branch of this somtam-focused restaurant on Sala Daeng. Expect crowds, all seeking out their 20 varieties of papaya salad and well-executed laab and tom saep.

Get 10% discount on food only when spending THB 500 or more /sales slip

Yoong Khao Hom

01 Oct ’20 - 31 Dec ’21

Somtum Der, 5/5 Sala Daeng Rd., 02-632-4499. Open daily 10am-1:30pm, 3:30-9pm. There are two other branches in Thonglor and Chiang Mai

Get 10% discount on food only when spending THB 500 or more /sales slip 01 Oct ’20 - 31 Dec ’21

Brought to you by Citi

Somtum Der

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To be featured in our upcoming 2021 guides, contact us at advertising@asia-city.co.th, (66) 84-906-7665

To be featured in our upcoming 2019 guides, contact us at advertising@asia-city.co.th, 02-624-9696

Supanniga Eating Room

page 3

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2020

Who's in charge?

Managing Director & Publisher Andrew Hiransomboon

upfront

Managing Editor Craig Sauers Deputy Editor Angela Symons Senior Writers Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley, Veerabhatr Sriyananda Contributor Megan Leon

Pailin Wedel talks about all things journalism and her stirring film, Hope Frozen

Creative Director Bhatara Chirdchuen Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Senior Graphic Designer Assaya Dejkong Chief Commercial Officer Jane Bay Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Nattaya Bovornsettanon ASIA CITY STUDIO Managing Editor Dietrich Neu Event Projects Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Marketing & Event Coordinator Thanawat Buddhichewin Senior Project Coordinator Sirinart Panyasricharoen Junior Project Coordinator Sawanya Chantarakana SOIMILK Editor Noranartta Chaikum Senior Writers Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan, Kristiya Chaisri Junior Graphic Designer Wathinee Srithongchuai Senior Sales Associate Kornkanok Sriwaranant Sales Associate Palita Nueangnit Assistant Brand Manager Prawpraew Pairohg

BK tries its hand at hotel reviews We know BK readers love us for our expert restaurant reviews. But considering how popular hotel reviews have become— even internationally!—we’ve decided it’s time to jump on the bandwagon. We asked two foreign travel writers to give their take on two awesome holiday retreats. Enjoy! tktktktktk tktktktktk Resort*

cover

Why Koh Samui needs domestic travelers now

Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Senior Accountant Maneeya Kanthongdang Accountant Manita Bangmoung Admin Executive Yaovaluck Srisermsri Interns Kanicha Nualkhair

Asia City Media Group Chief Executive Officer Greg Duncan (gduncan@asiacity.net) Director Gretchen Worth (gworth@asia-city.co.th)

1 star First of all, the staff was Unfriendly. No one even bothered to smiles. They acted like they don’t want anyone there before they took our names and showed us to our fucking hideous room. The restaurant manager was a Grade-A worst. I couldn’t tell where he was from, but wherever it was, they must not have taught him how to Czech Republic but only how to be a total dick. What a shithead. The rest of the staff was extremely rude and impolite to guests. Seriously, you’d be better off at another place. There are plenty with nice staff that are happy you are staying with them. This place must only exist to cater to the 120 sucker tourists from Guangzhou making the mistake of coming to Thailand this month. They should really go elsewhere.

Happy Thailand Good Time Hotel 5 stars

shopping

Meet Boyy’s sustainable new collection

Where to find us!

open door

taste test

Loukjaan

Tonic water

Is it possible to give a hotel more than 5 stars? If so, this place would get 10! The front desk staff greeted us with a friendly wai. Then, they gave us a yummy butterfly pea flower drink— completely free! Can you believe it? When we reached our room, we noticed that they had folded our towels to make them look like elephants and placed them on the bed. Wow! The food at the restaurant was soooo aroi, as they say here in Thailand. It was good value, too. I had vegetable fried rice that came in a hollowed-out pineapple, and it only cost B650 (about $20)! You don’t see prices like that where I’m from. There wasn’t a pool, and the air-conditioner rattled sort of a lot, but considering how wonderful the people were—seriously, they always smiled at us—and the fact that the rooms are discounted to just B2,500 ($80) a night, we say: stay here!

The Asia City Media Group Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower 100 North Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 Email: bkmagazine@asia-city.co.th

*BK strives to ensure that—as published—all reviews pass the strictest ethical and/or legal guidelines.

BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 24 times a year, twice a month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2020 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Media Group (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250

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latest news and trends

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neighborhood

Sukhumvit Sois 20-22

upfront

This award-winning filmmaker is pushing the boundaries of journalism

HOT OR NOT

CREATIVE COMMONS No people’s plaque at Sanam Luang? No worries. Thanks to activist Parit “Penguin” Chiwarak, who placed the image of the plaque into the public domain, you can now display your progressive bona fides on your T-shirts, mobile phone cases, keychains, caps, surfboards, hot pot grills, and more.

ORIGINALITY Coffee shops amid the rice paddies are so 2019, but that doesn’t seem to be stopping wannabe business owners from replicating the backto-basics travel model. Kanchanaburi, Pai, Nakhon Sri Thammarat, Nan, Hua Hin, Chiang Mai—name a province, and you’ll spot a cottagecore-inspired,

INTERVIEW

rice field-based cafe

Following the release of the riveting “Hope Frozen: A Quest to Live Twice” on Netflix, ThaiAmerican video journalist and documentary filmmaker Pailin Wedel quickly joined the ranks of Thailand’s top filmmakers. We got in touch with her to uncover what fuels her passion as a journalist, and the journey behind making the film.

How do you find stories to report on?

ask, so they spent the next two and a half years trying to answer them.

I tend to like stories that focus on trauma, faith, and identity. But, you know, the cannabis story [I just filmed for Al Jazeera] was fun. I thought it was really interesting that Thailand has this history with cannabis, but because of the US’ war on drugs, it was nearly eradicated. Now that cannabis is medically legalized, it’s difficult to find anybody who knows how to grow it anymore... [B]efore that, I did stories about headhunters in Nagaland for National Geographic, and South Korea’s gender war. Since I’m half Thai and half American, I feel like I’m constantly looking for stories in the region that will connect to a wider audience.

Did you ever think your work would win so many awards?

What does video journalism grant you that print cannot? When I was working in print, I was a stills photographer… The thing that I love about video journalism is that I get to actually talk and interview people for the camera. As a stills journalist, for print, you have to capture the whole story in one photo, or a few photos, if you’re lucky. [In] my career, I started just doing one photo, then 90-second news stories, and then I started doing four-minute feature stories, and then I did 30-minute Al Jazeera stories, and then Hope Frozen is 79 minutes… It’s almost like I naturally get frustrated with how little time I have to tell every story. It just keeps getting longer and longer. What were the most intense assignments you’ve had to do so far? I remember being on the frontlines [of the red and yellow shirt protests], with the Molotov cocktails being thrown and all. I remember being one of the women out there, and the men were, like, “What are you doing here?” I was also producing an investigative film for Al Jazeera, and I went to a Muslim school that was burned down while the students were still in it. That was probably one of the most heart-wrenching experiences I’ve had. People came up to me and said, “You know, people burn their [own] houses down.” Obviously, that’s not true, and it’s one of those moments where I’ve had to grasp whether humanity has the capacity to empathize with all people. What made you want to do Hope Frozen? My husband, who’s American, saw this story going viral on Thai television, so he invited me to do a news story on the family. What was supposed to be a few minutes of conversation turned into a much more in-depth conversation about life, and how technology is redefining the meaning of death for them, and how they deeply care for and love their daughter. That just really touched me on both the emotional and intellectual level. I had so many questions I wanted to

Everything has been completely unexpected. It was incredibly difficult to fund this film. I spent two years applying to 14 different funding bodies, pitched seven times to a live audience. I didn’t get anything until one of my last pitches... We edited the first cut and sent it to some festivals, and we were rejected by all of them. We were able to premiere [the second cut] at Hot Docs, which is North America’s largest documentary film festival. The festival only paid for three days of hotel [stays], so the whole team was planning to leave before the award ceremony. But then I got an email that said, “Hey, I think you might wanna stay.” I thought, “Ooh, we might’ve won something,” like one of the smaller prizes. We sat at the award ceremony, and they called out award after award… and it wasn’t us. Of course, the biggest award is the last one announced… [and] then they called our name, and I was completely surprised. We were up against a documentary about Syria, a documentary about migration in Europe. We were up against some really big topics of our time. And here we are, with this little film from Thailand about one family. Then I found out a few days later that winning the award meant that we were automatically qualified for the Oscars. We didn’t end up getting nominated or shortlisted, but just to be qualified, with 150 films in the world, is huge.

there. Bo-ring.

DEFAMATION Did you think those bedsheets at your holiday hotel just weren’t crisp enough? Was your

tom yum kung too

DEBT

tepid for your taste?

Not just household

Did you just have to

debt—which, accord-

tell the world about it

ing to The Nation, has

in a pithy TripAdvisor

spiked to B128,000

review? You could be

per household on

facing jail time for

average—but public

defamation. Isn’t that

debt, too. With the

What was it like to follow the family during their times of grief?

something. Anyway,

government angling to

The family has been really gracious and open right from the beginning. They’re academics, too, so they truly believe that putting their story out there, giving out information, even if a lot of people don’t agree with them, is always a good thing. Because isn’t it a good thing to have debate in society? Where would society be if we can’t discuss things?

call your lawyer now!

borrow B1.3 trillion to

...I think they saw all these other journalists come, and they spent an hour or a day, but I was the one that stayed. I was the one that really tried to understand them, and I think they saw that determination. Is Hope Frozen your proudest achievement so far? I’m proud of most of the stories I do, but Hope Frozen is the biggest, longest, and hardest project I’ve ever done. The very first time I met the family and talked to them was more than five years ago. It took five years from production, to editing, to festivals, to Netflix. It was a journey that took away half of my 30s [laughs]. Veerabhatr Sriyananda

offset the economy’s tremendous losses this year, public debt is set to soar to 57.23 percent of GDP. For anyone who isn’t an economist, that puts it close to the sustainability threshold of 60 percent. That’s… bad.

cover | different wave

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 09, 2020

Coming Back to Koh Samui With international tourism still up in the air, Samui’s reputation as a high-end destination has backfired. Thanks to its host of exclusive resorts and typically high flight prices, the island has not welcomed domestic tourists in the same numbers as other beach destinations, leaving its tourism industry in tatters. We touched down on Samui to find out how businesses are coping amid Covid-19 and discover how locals are working to improve the island’s image.

By Angela Symons

Uphill Struggle

In bustling Bangkok, it’s easy to forget the devastating impact the pandemic has had on the tourism industry, but laying eyes on usually frenetic tourist hub Chaweng, it’s abundantly clear. In an almost post-apocalyptic scene, rows of boarded-up restaurants are joined by shuttered 7-Elevens and Family Marts. With visitor numbers at an all-time low for an island used to welcoming almost 2.3 million tourists per year, Samui is in a desperate state. Even before the pandemic hit, Samui was struggling due to an oversupply of hotel rooms, as international tourists skipped Thailand and its strong baht, opting for cheaper beach destinations in neighboring countries. Hopes that the island’s occupancy rate would be boosted in the December-to-March high season were dashed by the onset of Covid-19, which saw visitor numbers plummet almost 50 percent at the start of the year. Already locked in a fierce price war, the island’s hotels have been forced to set their rates ever lower as beach destinations across the country grapple for domestic business. Transport to the island has also been a limiting factor. Bangkok Airways’ monopoly on flights to Samui and the small size of the airport—and therefore the planes—means that the island welcomes significantly fewer visitors than the likes of Phuket, while flights are far more costly. Bangkok Airways has sought to remedy this by increasing the number of daily return flights to 10 and slashing prices by as much as two-thirds, yet competition remains stiff. “The fact that Samui has fewer tourists is [due to] the cost of traveling,” says Samui-native Wannaphong “Tom” Panprom, who works as the operations manager at Miskawaan Luxury Beachfront Villas

in Maenam. “Within our hotels, we are discussing how we can negotiate with Bangkok Airways to reduce the price, otherwise most Thais will go for Koh Samet, Hua Hin, Prachuap, Pattaya, and Phuket because they’re cheaper.” “The price of the flights to Samui means it has always been a premium destination,” agrees Christian Lueke, the cluster director of sales and marketing for Melia Koh Samui, part of a Spanish hotel chain that made its Thailand debut in January. This has been a double-edged sword for Samui. “There are definitely two hearts beating in one chest,” he continues. “The island is what it is because it’s a quality destination, so this bottleneck helps on the one hand; on the other hand, hotels are always animals who need more.”

Seeking Solutions

With pundits predicting that post-pandemic travel will be reserved for the affluent, Samui could be well positioned as a luxury destination. Until borders reopen, however, the island must find a way to stay afloat. The government’s domestic tourism subsidy scheme, Rao Pai Tiew Gun (We Travel Together), has encouraged domestic tourism to a limited extent, but according to Bangkok Post, of the 5 million subsidized nights available, only a fraction have been claimed since the scheme debuted in mid-July—something many have put down to the confusing and convoluted nature of the app and booking process.

cover | different wave Banyan Tree

Melia Koh Samui

Kapuhala

With schools back in session, domestic tourist numbers are likely to drop further. Small concessions have been made, with two new long-weekend holidays—Nov 19-22 and Dec 10-13—recently approved by the cabinet to coincide with school breaks, and the We Travel Together campaign set to be extended until the end of the year. Proof that such measures are effective comes from Chonlatee “Tee” Sripoka, the manager of Samui’s Insta-famous Coco Tam’s bar and restaurant. “The Fisherman’s Village area is quieter than usual [but] during the Thai long-weekend holidays, we had huge amounts of customers compared to normal,” says Tee. Seeking to capitalize on the long-weekend influxes, Melia Koh Samui is rolling out three-night family getaway promotions (B4,800/night net), featuring free room upgrades, kids’ activities, airport transfers, and spa discounts, though short stays will do little to bridge the gap left by international tourists, who typically stay for up to two weeks.

stay,” he adds. Meanwhile at Banyan Tree, hygiene manager Phakthima Naratthakit has been working hard to ensure the resort is Covid-proof, with daily temperature checks, mask-wearing, contactless service, and restricted facilities.

Meanwhile, with the visa amnesty for international tourists stranded in Thailand now up, and rumors of an extension being dismissed at the time of writing, hoteliers on Samui are left grasping for solutions. “In my opinion, they should have never asked people to leave because there’s no reason for that—people here are already under control, they know where they are, who they are, they’re spending money, they should have stayed,” says Sergio Colombini, the general manager of Kapuhala, a wellness resort that opened in December.

Thailand’s continued focus on zero new cases has led to hysteria surrounding minor outbreaks like the one in Rayong in April, doing little to quell public angst. “There’s one case and the whole country wants to go into lockdown. Businesses cannot operate like this—they need stability,” says Columbini. “It’s better to stay closed than be scattered. Nobody makes money that way.” Panprom also believes that the spread of misinformation is causing apprehension in the local community. “There is so much news about how bad [Covid] is so people get scared; they just listen to social media without knowing the facts,” he says.

While hoteliers hope that such efforts coupled with Thailand’s apparent success in containing the virus will ease travelers’ minds when borders reopen, the question remains: are islanders ready to welcome back international tourists? Speaking with various locals, the general mood on the island is health over profits. While huge numbers of workers faced with pay cuts have returned to their home provinces, Miskawaan’s Panprom confirms that some islanders are easing the economic impact of the pandemic by becoming more self-sufficient, such as growing their own vegetables and raising chickens, thus reducing the sense of urgency for the return of tourism.

Now, hopes rest on the proposed Special Tourist Visa. Officials hope this long-stay visa will bring 1,200 international tourists into Thailand each month, with a 14-day quarantine. Pending the scheme’s success, the monthly quota is set to increase, while discussions are afoot to reduce the quarantine period to seven days. The scheme was scheduled to kick off yesterday, with 120 Chinese tourists landing in Phuket. Without international flight access, it is still unclear how visitors will be transported to Samui, but a handful of hotels on the island have been approved as Alternative State Quarantine (ASQ) facilities to prepare for the potential return of tourists.

When asked whether the community is concerned about Samui’s move to approve ASQ hotels, Panprom says, “Partly, yes. That’s why they need to educate people that it’s not dangerous... I think we are ready to bring tourists back, but we need to make sure locals understand that they will be protected.” Looking to the capital for assurance, he adds, “We have examples in Bangkok and people are doing fine. A couple of hotels need to lead this, otherwise nothing’s going to happen.”

Opening Up

Signs of Life

Whether tourists are ready to return to Thailand and willing to accept a two-week quarantine is another matter. “People who are planning to stay for two or three months will accept two weeks of quarantine if they make it affordable,” predicts Colombini, while Melia’s Lueke posits, “There will be people saying I don’t mind [about quarantine]...for example retirees from Scandinavia—a country which has very decent spending power and is normally is dark and grisly from November until April—[will accept] two weeks in quarantine to then have three months here.” During 2020’s extensive downtime, Samui’s resorts have been busy readying themselves for the return of guests under the “new normal.” “We opened the rooms [at Kapuhala] right before Christmas last year, so we were just ramping up when Covid came,” says Columbini. “Honestly, it gave us a chance to really rethink and reshuffle things. It’s very difficult right now…[but] we have learned a lot.” Similarly, following years in the making, Melia Koh Samui was forced to close just months after its grand opening in January. “The fact that we opened the hotel and closed again allowed us to detect mistakes and opportunities, and we focused on training,” says Melia’s general manager, Ernesto Osuna. “Economically, it’s going to be very difficult, so we can at least make sure that everybody who comes to the hotel has a super good

Proof that it’s not all doom and gloom comes from Banyan Tree’s feel-good news back in April, when the resort discovered green turtle nests on its beach. Under the watchful eye of the hotel’s CSR manager and resident marine biologist, Thepsuda Loyjiw, the 200 hatchlings were released on Banyan Tree’s secluded beach, giving them a fighting chance of survival. “Thailand’s Department of Marine Natural Resources has shown that the number of turtle nests has decreased in the past decade because of beach activity and pollution from humans,” says Loyjiw. “Covid may be one factor for the turtles coming to nest this year, as the beach is quiet, but it may also be to do with the reproductive cycle of the turtles.” This report is just one of many in recent months citing a regeneration of marine life in Samui and surrounding islands, suggesting the lack of tourists has played a part. Panprom, who recalls the idyllic concrete-free “Monkey Island” of his childhood, says that under Covid’s quiet conditions, “The beaches, coconuts and everything are reviving. I had never seen turtles coming up from the beach before and I saw that two weeks ago for the first time in my life. [There is also] a whale shark coming up often in Koh Tao. You normally see this once a year, but now you see it all the time.” He adds, “It’s nice for me to see, but not for tourism.”

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 09, 2020

Although Banyan Tree’s sheltered bay has witnessed the regeneration of Samui’s marine life, not every part of the island is so well protected. Bulin “Blue” Phungsomsak, a snorkeling instructor with Oceana Samui who has lived on the island for nine years, says there’s good and bad to come out of the pandemic. While the lack of tourists has given the marine life time to rejuvenate, it’s had an unwelcome side effect: “It’s complex, because the people who take things from the environment are also the people who take care of the environment,” explains Blue. “If we don’t have tourists, we don’t go to the places we usually go, so it will be quiet and good for the fish, but [then] there are some people who are just going there and taking what they want with fishing and spear guns.” Loyjiw points to another negative side effect of Covid on the island’s natural environment. “The big problem that I have seen from the pandemic is the waste production resulting from humans protecting themselves. Waste from single use plastic items has increased; if this waste is not managed properly, it is flushed into the ocean.” On the positive side, she notes that “carbon emissions from human activities have been reduced,” adding that five percent of human carbon emissions is estimated to come from tourism activities.

How to Get There Bangkok Airways operates 10 return flights per day between Bangkok Suvarnabhumi and Koh Samui. Prices start from B3,900 return at bangkokair.com.

So, what can we learn from the pandemic? “To restore the balance of natural resources, we must protect the environment and follow the sufficiency economy theory,” says Loyjiw. “At Banyan Tree, our brand ethos is to reduce carbon emissions through sustainable development, focusing not only on the conservation of natural resources, but on balancing economic and social security, sustainable supply chains and responsible services.” She believes that if all sectors, including the government, work together to set sustainable policies—such as reducing VAT on green products and raising awareness within the community—the future of Samui’s natural landscape is hopeful.

Miskawaan

Essentials Kapuhala Stay from B1,700/night (special introductory rate)

Melia Koh Samui Stay from B2,400/night (over 40 percent discount)

Healthy Outlook

As visions of a more sustainable tourism industry strike an optimistic tone, hope also rests in Samui’s ability to appeal to visitors holding a new set of priorities. With health at the top of people’s minds, the island’s many wellness retreats are uniquely positioned to appeal to travelers in the wake of the pandemic. “Thailand is very supportive of healthcare—it had already been identified as one of the pillars of economic growth going forward, even pre-Covid,” says Henning Kalwa, deputy CEO of Miskawaan Health Group. Earlier this year, Miskawaan expanded its long-standing luxury beach villas on Samui with a clinic that focuses on preventative, immune-boosting treatments, and functional medicine for chronic conditions. “Covid has put the spotlight on wellness and looking after your immune system,” continues Kalwa. “We feel very strongly that we are in the right position to help as many patients as possible.” Similarly, wellness retreat Kapuhala hopes to appeal to visitors when the island reopens. A garden packed with organic fruit and vegetables that are utilized in the resort’s plant-based restaurant, a calisthenics gym with ocean views, and a rooftop deck for sunrise yoga sessions are just a few of the appeals of this wellness oasis. Samui’s strength as a luxury destination coupled with its burgeoning wellness sector could provide the island with the strength needed to pull through and return better and more sustainable than ever. Until then, their hopes remain pegged to travelers in Thailand.

Banyan Tree Samui Stay from B9,800/night (over 80 percent discount)

Miskawaan Luxury Beachfront Villas Stay from B18,200/night for eight people (50 percent discount, available until Oct 31)

hit list | shopping

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 9, 2020

We’re in love with Boyy’s new sustainable collection FASHION

Attention, Boyy fans: the uber-chic handbag label has just released a limited-edition collection alongside a new pop-up store at Siam Paragon. Trust us, you won’t be disappointed. Dubbed “Boyy Up,” the new collection by designer duo Jesse Dorsey and Wannasiri Kongman is all about sustainability. Each handbag in the lineup has been disassembled and reconstructed from only existing archive materials in an effort to minimize the brand’s environmental impact. The result? A fun and flirty upcycled collection featuring your favorite silhouettes from Boyy, now presented in playful new shapes. Highlight picks include creative spins on the popular buckle bags, like the wonton-shaped Fredgami 23 (B40,500) and Karl 19 Shumai (B40,500), while the unisex Shoulder Box (B24,500), assembled with deconstructed cardholder and stock leather, is also not to be missed. While you’re shopping—or window-shopping—at the store, also check out the small leather goods and accessories. The Boyy Contour Wallet belt bag, for instance, can spice up any outfit. Through Jan 3, 2021. Open daily 10am-9pm. Boyy Up, M/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd.

[TRICK OR TREAT]

Check out these cute Halloween releases from Lush

Bewitched Bubble Bar B375/100g

Monsters’ Ball Bath Bomb B395/200g

WELLNESS

SNEAKERS

TECH

A lush pampering treatment The perfect athleisure kicks This could be the perfect instant to melt your stress away camera for Polaroid beginners to add to your collection If you’ve had it with work stress and need a pampering session, book in at The Okura Spa for a blissful two-hour Lotus Revitalising Package (B4,500). The treatment begins with a 30-minute lotus loofah gel body scrub using a nourishing, apricot seed extract for smooth and supple skin, followed by a 60-minute body massage that uses sweet almond oil to help relieve muscle tension and balance your body and mind. Finish with a 30-minute foot massage for better circulation and an overall sense of relaxation. Available through Dec 31. 25/F, The Okura Prestige Bangkok, 57 Witthayu Rd., 02-687-9000. Open daily 10am-10pm

When it comes to picking the right pair of athleisure sneakers, comfort and function is key-but don’t forget style. That’s why you should put the Ecco ST.1 on your radar. With Fluidform technology, the latest kicks from Ecco ensure next-level comfort in every step, while the Shock-Thru cushion core on the heel provides double shock absorption. We totally dig the color block design and street-style vibe of these kicks, crafted from soft premium leather in both high (B7,190) and low tops (B6,990). Available at Ecco Shop, 3/F, CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd., 02-252-6224. Open daily 10am-9pm

What: Fujifilm Instax Square SQ1 Price: B3,890 Why? Polaroid rookies looking for their first instant camera: this little snapper from Fujifilm could be the one. Like all Instax cameras, the SQ1 is fun to use and comes in three attractive colors: Chalk White, Terracotta Orange and Glacier Blue. Instead of keeping all the bells and whistles of its predecessor, the SQ6, Fujifilm keeps the SQ1 simple. To turn it on, twist the lens once. Fancy a selfie? Twist it again for selfie mode. It’s also entirely automatic: press the shutter and out comes the film. Plus, it’s auto exposure. Available at bigcamera.co.th

Ghost in the Dark Soap B425/100g

Very Very Frightening Shower Gel B460/100g *available at www.th.lush.com

Shop Talk How to spend your hardearned baht

BUY IT

SACKITEM PIXEL BACKPACK Bring this badass and eco-friendly backpack (B2,390) on all your (eventual) travels; available at www.sackitem.com

BIN IT TRUCKER CAPS Why this awful trend from the early 2000s is still a thing is beyond us.

BARGAIN

BEAUTY HALL 21ST ANNIVERSARY PROMOTION Get coupons, cash-back deals, gift vouchers and perks galore at Beauty Hall Siam Paragon, The Emporium and The EmQuartier; through Oct 31

hit list I what’s on REVIEW

FESTIVAL

Root the Future Festival Calling all adherents of the plantbased diet and lifestyle: On Oct 1718, head to Sansiri Backyard for the Root the Future Festival, where you’ll enjoy a zero-waste weekend teeming with plant-based food, ethical and sustainable products, vegan barbecues, workshops, panel discussions, movie screenings, and music. Indulge in 100-percent plant-based burgers, vegan cakes, nut cheeses, breads, plant-based meats, local and ethical coffee, wicker goods, and sustainable fashion, all curated by vendors based in and around Bangkok and Thailand. That means you’ll be supporting local businesses, too. Sansiri Backyard, T77 Community, On Nut Soi 1/1

NIGHTLIFE

Disco Diaries Look forward to a little Saturday night fever this month, as Disco Diaries is back on Oct 17 at the newly-opened rooftop bar Paradise Lost, set 25 floors above National Stadium at the Siam@Siam hotel. Wind down in a private booth at the bar’s pastel pink-clad first floor, or head up to the second floor to dance the night away to house and disco tunes, powered by the world-class Funktion-One soundsystem, while downing tasty tropical drinks under the Bangkok sky. Tickets are available at ticketmelon.com (B850 early bird/B1,000 at the door). Paradise Lost, 25/F Siam@Siam Hotel, 865 Rama 1 Rd.

MUSIC

Cobra EP Release The party peeps behind Karma Klique have embarked on a new journey, launching their own music label, Siamese Twins Records. Working with local artists, they intend to venture into new sonic arenas, and they’re starting with an EP from Mogambo, a project launched by label co-founder Sunju Hargun and multi-instrumentalist Jerom Doudet. The EP, “Cobra,” features four tracks birthed from their affinity of Bollywood movies, electronica, psychedelic gongs, and hypnotic grooves with elements of slow trance and tribal percussion. Head to De Commune on Oct 17 for the EP release party, which will feature along with other artists like Chucheewa, the lead singer of indie band Fwends, who is now dabbling in DJing. Tickets are B300. De Commune, 1/F Liberty Plaza, Block 1000/215

BK ASKS

Sunju Hargun, DJ and director of music for Siamese Twins Records

What’s your opinion of Bangkok’s music scene currently? It’s great to witness how strong and united the local audience is. This goes to credit the great collectives, promoters, and labels in the city, all doing it together for the love of the music and pushing boundaries. The home-grown [DJ] talent is very strong, with [everyone interested in] digging deeper and supporting each other—this is how a community grows. Why did you launch your own record company [Siamese Twins]? We always wanted to have an outlet aside from the [Karma Klique] events where we could express our creativity while sharing the music we truly believe in. Over the years of booking artists [for Karma Klique events], our network grew and we witnessed

talent growing in the region. The key was always to support local and Asian artists while pairing them with international talents, which is exactly what we do with the label. What are you feeling as you prepare to release your first EP? Very proud and happy. It’s especially rewarding [because our] close friends are attached to this album. It feels like a beautiful start of the journey for Mogambo and Siamese Twins, and something we can look back on one day [with fond memories]. What can we expect from Siamese Twins in the future? Lots of exciting music to appear in the next months. We are very happy to say also that our schedule for 2021 is full. Watch this space!

YELLOW FANG - “IN BETWEEN (FEAT. AP THAILAND)”

H It used to be that selling out meant signing with a major label. Not anymore. The tire fire that is 2020 has introduced us to a new way for musicians to leverage their creativity for cash. For instance, we’ve witnessed Travis Scott collaborating with McDonald’s, Post Malone partnering with Crocs, even Bob Dylan—Bob Dylan!—lending his image to menswear brand Barking Irons. Now, Yellow Fang, arguably the best indie band to spring up from the post-Nirvana generation in Thailand, has produced a track for a property developer: “In Between,” part of AP Thailand’s #makelivinggreatagain campaign. Look, everybody needs to get paid. We understand that as keenly as anyone else. Writers, musicians, filmmakers—at some point, everyone in the creative industries will face the same dilemma that Yellow Fang has. But this collaboration is problematic for several reasons. For starters, they have thrown their tacit support behind a company whose sole impetus is razing the city to build sterile apartment complexes that drive up property prices and force out low-wage earners, a category which historically includes independent musicians. Not to mention AP has tried to co-opt Donald Trump’s “make America great again” rallying cry. Anyone paying attention to American politics would realize that no one can filch the language that appeals to Trump’s base. The very attempt at doing so is lazy marketing. The three women who form Yellow Fang must have lost sleep over AP’s offer. This is the band that had the stones to name its debut album “The Greatest,” after all. To produce a native ad masquerading as a song meant to “inspire everyone…to make life more meaningful again” is akin to waving the white flag, to saying: “there is no other way for us to make it.” Even more unsettling? AP has clearly encouraged them to use this language to support a dumb brand ploy at a time when suicide rates in Thailand are soaring. The song itself is synth-heavy, spit-shined to a glossy sheen, cleaner and more crisp than any of their past tracks, but overall it’s a tepid effort from a band that boasts street cred in legitimately cool cities like Bangkok and Tokyo. In other words, it lacks the heartstring-pulling crescendo of standout single “If Only” and the emotional authenticity of tracks like “Unreal” and “Dusilong,” the latter featuring Gene Mahasamut, an actual icon of the creative scene. Ultimately, if this is what it takes for indie artists to survive in Thailand, then maybe we should be reexamining the way the music industry operates instead of more or less forcing talented musicians to cave to the pressure of late-stage capitalism.

Star Ratings HHH Give it a miss HHH Worth your time HHH Absolute must

food & drink | open door

A Michelin-starred institution opens an affordable offshoot The buzz: Tucked away on the ground floor of the luxurious new Sindhorn Kempinski Hotel, Loukjaan by Saneh Jaan, an offshoot of Michelin-starred Thai fine dining institution Saneh Jaan, serves uncompromisingly authentic Thai fare at surprisingly reasonable prices. The vibe: With dimmed pendant lighting and a masculine grayand-black color scheme, Loukjaan offers a youthful take on Saneh Jaan’s sleek Thai aesthetic. The sizable private room is typically booked out for corporate events, while the spacious dining area welcomes groups of friends seeking traditional recipes in an upscale setting. On one side, large windows look out to the green garden, while, on the other, an open kitchen reveals the chefs at work. The food: Stylized as the “daughter” of Saneh Jaan, Loukjaan takes the ancient royal recipes of its forebearer and adds a few contemporary twists. With its perfect balance of salty, sweet, and sour notes, the juicy pomelo salad (B280) is a must-try. If you’re into punchy flavors, don’t miss the tangy ran-juan soup (B240), a rare ancient recipe spotlighting tender, juicy pork ribs, pungent nam prik, and aromatic herbs. Topped with meaty prawns, the sweet, stir-fried cowslip flowers with silky glass noodles and fermented sour pork (B180) is another hit. For a

fiery kick, order the Southern-style yellow curry with sea bass and bamboo shoots (B280), then cool off with the refreshingly light mixed fruit in syrup granita (B100) or the savory-sweet taro in coconut milk with crispy popped rice (B100). The drinks: The beverage selection keeps it simple and casual. Choose from classic cocktails (martini, B400), local and imported beers (Chang, B220; Brewdog Punk IPA, B395), wine (from B330/1,550 for Californian merlot), or soft drinks like fresh fruit juice (B200) and Illy coffee (from B100). Why we’d come back: This is an opportunity to try Saneh Jaan’s authentic recipes at a fraction of the price. We’re already craving round two. Angela Symons Lobby/F, Sindhorn Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 80 Soi Tonson, 02-095-9999, open daily 11:30am-3pm, 5:30-9pm

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 9, 2020

Vivin

NEW AND NOTED

David Thompson lands at Central’s new “old” store

Grab some groceries and a meal while you’re at it at Vivin

This cafe is proving that being “vanilla” isn’t such a bad thing

Australian celebrity chef David Thompson is back in Bangkok with Aksorn. Located at the Central Original Store in Bang Rak, which opened in 1950, Aksorn sees Thompson veering away from the food you might remember from Nahm. The regularly changing tasting menu (B2,800) draws on recipes found in mid-twentieth century cookbooks. Served family-style, it currently features dishes like smoked catfish wrapped in wild tea leaves; seasoned river prawns with pickled garlic, kaffir lime and peanuts; and red beef curry with peanuts. You can also expect Thai sweets like Ancestor biscuits and coconut candies. 1266 Charoenkrung, 02-116-8662

Vivin, the producer known for its locally made, yet still premium, artisanal products, now boasts more than just groceries. At its Ekkamai headquarters, Vivin has gone full “grocerant,” offering fresh “shelf-to-plate” dishes from morning to night alongside goods for sale. Pop in to purchase Thai cheese, cold cuts, and charcuterie; stay for dishes like the Chiang Mai goat cheese omelet (B290), free range egg curry with Kampot pepper (B195 half/B350 full), or duck confit with mash of the day and seasonal veggies (B380) washed down with wine by the glass (B220), Castown soda (B80), or a Thai craft beer (B160/bottle). Ekkamai Complex, 379/8 Sukhumvit 63 Rd., 080-463-5747

Located in Ari’s rabbit warren-like back sois, Vanillian champions the world’s second-most expensive spice. (I.e., vanilla.) The cafe is run by young couple Pariya Junhasavasdikul and Viluda Pornputhasri, who are currently growing vanilla on their Kanchanaburi farm. Although their products aren’t yet ready for market, you can still taste the spice’s special flavor now with drinks like the Vanillian Citrus (B135), a vanilla shake spiked with orange cream and cinnamon, and desserts like Vanilla 101 (THB195), which comes with two bowls of vanilla caviar ice cream with vanilla pods, and a third containing a vanilla creme brulee tart. Soi Phibun Watthana 2, 094-642-3694

TABLE TALK

To Summer by Coco Tam’s Bophut, 62/1a, Koh Samui, 091-915-5664. Open daily until 9am-10pm. Beachside vibes in Samui and a smashing breakfast that gets the day started right. Sounds pretty good doesn’t it? Summer by Coco Tam’s is a self-proclaimed “superfood cafe” that runs the gamut of world-fusion fare — international food with healthy ingredients, basically. Expect quinoa salads, Asianfusion pasta, burgers, specialist milk tea, all-day breakfast and healthy desserts.

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 10% discount on food only 01 Oct ’20 – 30 Sep ’21

food & drink | open door

Kisu Izakaya

TABLE TALK

Ginger Farm Ginger Farm Kitchen, 101 The Third Place, Megabangna, 052-080-928. Open daily 10am-10pm If you are a fan of locally sourced ingredients and supporting small-time farmers (and you should) you’ll fit right in here. This casual Thai restaurant and bistro prides itself on sourcing ingredients from local farmers and artisan food producers. They make it known all over the menu, with large images of fresh produce spattered across pages filled with producefocused dishes like deep-fried prawn cakes, tiny freshwater shrimp with chilies and sriracha, and spicy larb salads to name a few. There are several restaurants under the “Ginger Farm” banner, but the flagship location is in Chiang Mai — don’t worry, they have a venue in Mega Bangna as well.

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 10% discount on food only 01 Aug ’20 – 31 Jul ’21

NEW AND NOTED

Ari’s latest izakaya of- This new private The Cocotte family grows by one at Phrom fers quaint vibes and dining experience welcomes you haawm Phong’s Emquartier mall after-hours bites From the group behind fellow Cocotte family members Mozza and Victoria comes Leon by Cocotte. What sets Leon apart from its siblings is its rustic atmosphere imbued with brass and royal blue tones, courtesy of Paradigm Shift design studio. Chef Jeriko Van Der Wolf takes the wheel with a menu rich in luxe products. Think Black Angus tomahawks (B250/100g); the Leon foie gras burger (B690), loaded with foie gras cream, cheese, onion compote, and pan-seared foie gras; and truffle- and foie-stuffed baby chicken perigourdin (B1,690). Test your arteries by pairing it all with decadent sides like truffle cheese fries (B240). G/F, Emquartier, 063-267-7778

Out goes homely Ari Recipe and in comes cozy Kisu Izakaya, Ari’s latest destination for after-hours food, set beside the oh-so-photogenic Josh Hotel. Expect a bunch of classic comfort food—from kaki nabe (oyster hot pot; B368) to wagyu rokkankin (B268), which offers six juicy cuts of rib fingers to grill yourself, to grilled skewers like the Gobon Setto Yakitori (B228), which consists of chicken thigh and leek, bacon-wrapped cherry tomatoes, salmon belly, pork belly, and chicken neck meat. Wash it down with a pint of red Shiso beer (B128), draft Asahi (from B88), or a Suntory yuzu highball (B158). Josh Hotel, Phahon Yothin Soi 7, 065-385-5565

Located in the On Nut ‘burbs, Bangkok’s latest private dining player, Haawm, has the mnemonic advantage of sounding like home but meaning “good-smelling.” The chef, a selftaught Thai-American who started his career slinging noodles in the US, is offering quintessential Thai homecooking but with southern American touches: smoking, grilling, homemade dry rubs. The dinner (B750/person) can seat six and is served family-style. From a daily-changing menu, expect dishes like jungle curry with sun-dried pork and grilled baby corn, and betel leaf wrap with grilled prawns and pork fat. As for beverages, it’s BYOB. fb.com/haawmbkk, 092-712-0121

food & drink | taste test

Which tonic water makes the best G&T?

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 9, 2020

Nammon Siamese Tonic The brand: Thailand’s first craft tonic, whose Winner! name translates to “holy water,” is made in Nonthaburi using Thai botanicals, including bitter orange. The taste: After a minor mishap— open the bottle slowly or expect to be doused in fizzy liquid—we discover a lightly bitter tonic with subtle sweetness that brings out the gin’s floral notes. Then we decide to pour another. The price: B500/12 bottles The verdict: Bless your heart.

Franklin & Sons The brand: Founded in 1886, this brand was Runner originally sold in a famUp! ily confectioner’s shop, and today they produce a range of premium tonic waters and mixers. The taste: This aromatic offering yields a lemony aftertaste that doesn’t overpower the gin, but it’s so delicate it doesn’t offer much in terms of complexity. The price: B119 The verdict: Spirited effort.

Schweppes

Thailand’s climate (i.e., perpetual summer) is optimal for enjoying G&Ts. Specifically, sipping a G&T with a wedge of lime on your balcony as the sun sets over the city. Or, you know, however you prefer. Anyway, while we have plenty of awesome options for the G end of the equation, we have fewer for the T. That’s why we set out to try the city’s top tonic options, but properly: with a shot of Widges and a squeeze of lime. Here are the results.

The brand: “The world’s original soft drink” can trace its history back to 1783. Fun fact: it was the first bottle of its kind to retain carbonation. The taste: Okay, hear us out. This one is well-balanced—maybe the most well-balanced of all the tonics we tried. It’s clean, floral, pleasant. We would probably enjoy this in a G&T at a bar. The price: B16 The verdict: Money-saver

Fever-Tree The brand: A more recent addition to the tonic scene, Fever-Tree was founded in 2004 and has since exploded in popularity among bartenders. The taste: We’re blown away—not by the quality, but rather the sweetness that coats your tongue like a sugar pill. Ultimately, that sweetness is one-dimensional and blocks out the nuance of the gin, although the tonic is pleasant over all. The price: B69 The verdict: Sugar high.

Sanpellegrino Agua Tonica The brand: The Italian sparkling water brand is known for just that: sparkling water. However, it also produces a range of mixers, including a few tonics. The taste: There isn’t much flavor, and there isn’t any aroma to speak of, either. This strikes us as fizzy water mixed with gin, which is fitting once we discover the brand behind it. The price: B59 The verdict: Fizzles out.

Thomas Henry The brand: Berlin’s “refreshment pioneer” is named after an 18thYikes! century pharmacist, but Thomas Henry (the brand) has been around since 2010. The taste: This one, on the other hand, hits us in the face right off the bat, but that aftertaste… oh, no. You’d expect this flavor from a G&T served in a Solo cup at a uni house party. The price: B69 The verdict: Smashed.

food & drink | news

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2020

Sra Bua busts out iconic dishes for its tenth anniversary

HOT OFF THE PASS

DOUBLE FIGURES

The Michelin-starred Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin has reopened to the public with a showstopping menu featuring the restaurant’s most iconic dishes from the past decade. Available for both lunch and dinner, the four- (B1,850, lunch only), six- (B2,600) and eight-course (B3,200) menus packed with all the modern gastronomic theatrics that Sra Bua has become known for, like tom yum brewed using scientific apparatus and served with a syringe of tofu “Mama noodles,” and the iconic frozen red curry with Maine lobster served in a bowl piping with dry ice. Before your meal begins, start off in the lounge area with an array of creative, street-food inspired canapes like smoking sai oua and miang kham. Follow that up in the regal teak wood- and lotus pond-filled dining room, where the gastronomic journey continues with slow-cooked wagyu beef served with crispy kale, pickled radish, green bean and house-made oyster sauce and mango sticky rice bent out of recognition but packed with familiar flavors. Opt for the wine pairing to complete the experience (B1,200/1,800/2,300), which charts everything from a deliciously dry Grüner Veltliner from Austria to sweet Japanese plum wine. The Iconic set menu will be available until mid-October, after which it will change to a Winter Journey menu in tandem with Sra Bua’s sister restaurant in Copenhagen. The iconic dishes will remain available a la carte. Sra Bua, G/F, Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama I Rd., 02-162-9000. Open Fri-Sun, noon3pm, 6-10:30pm

SIRIOUS There’s a new face at Siri House. Steve Doucakis, formerly of Bunker and Little Donkey, is now overseeing the menus at Quince, Luka, and Jacqueline. Expect new wave flavor combos from the Top Chef competitor.

NEW BAR ALERT The team behind Rabbit Hole and Crimson Room have a new bar coming to upper Thonglor. It’s a more casual affair, where vinyl will spin and a mid-century modern aesthetic will harken to better, cleaner times when the world still made sense.

AGE APPROPRIATE

SKIN CONTACT

VEG OUT

A top Bangkok chef flies south for a two-night pop-up at Age

Isaan bites meet amber wines at this one-off pairing dinner

Mia ditches meat through October with a new veganfriendly menu

The Anantara Layan welcomes chef Riley Sanders from Michelin-starred Canvas this Oct 9-10 for the first in its “Bangkok Culinary Greats” dinner series. Sanders, known for his undying passion for Thai ingredients, is setting up at Age, the hotel’s highend haven for premium meat and local seafood. The six-course menu (B3,000/B3,500 with wine) includes Canvas’ signature smoked, dry-aged Khao Yai duck, plus a bounty of other Thai ingredients, like wagyu top sirloin from Mukdahan, sturgeon from Hua Hin, and lady finger bananas put to good use in a unique dessert. For reservations, call 02-236-5911 or email age.alay@anantara.com.

If you love wine and Isaan food, don’t miss this one-off collaboration at 100 Mahaseth Ekkamai this Oct 21. Chef Chalee Kader will be serving his Isaan-style classics in tapas form with a selection of amber wines curated by Kim Wachtveitl, owner of Wine Garage, one of Bangkok’s most notable wine suppliers. The menu (B1,300) will feature some of 100 Mahaseth’s best hits like the signature roasted bone marrow with perilla seeds. You’ll get three glasses of global wines, like a 2019 Borachio pinot grigio from the Adelaide Hills in Australia, each ranging from short maceration to long skin contact. 100 Mahaseth, 5 Ekkamai 21, 02-235-0023

Vegetarians and vegans are no longer pariahs at the fine-dining table, at least not at modern European restaurant Mia. Throughout October, the restaurant will serve diners a wholesome, eight-course vegan tasting menu (B2,150) to celebrate Thailand’s vegetarian festival. Expect dishes like cauliflower served three ways with bergamot, grapes, and green curry velouté; avocado cream with bell pepper sorbet and tomato consommeé; and artichokes with miso and seaweed vinaigrette. Can’t make it this month? Rest assured that Mia caters to vegetarians and vegans all the time, too. 30 Attha Kawi Soi 1, 02-258-6745

AGE OF ACQUARIUS One of Phuket’s best restaurants, Acqua, run by Italian chef Alessandro Frau, is set to expand into Bangkok this month, with the venue opening somewhere on Soi Somkid.

YOU SAID WHAT?

The news in online foodie posts

“IT’S REALLY REALLY GOOD!!” FACEBOOK USER ANNE ANN ABOUT 25 DEGREES’ NEW MILKSHAKES

“WHAT AN UNDERHANDED WAY TO POST AN ADVERT!” INSTAGRAM USER METALAMERICA01 ON OUR GUIDE TO PHROM PHONG’S BEST CAFES

“1000 BAHT BURGERS YAYY! :-D“ FACEBOOK USER ALJOSCHA HA ON THE OPENING OF LEON BY COCOTTE

travel | news

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 23, 2020

PHUKET

Patong welcomes a family-friendly resort to its currently quiet shores

Put Chiang Saen’s teakand brick-filled hotel on your winter travel radar

Patong might not scream “family holiday,” but the Four Points by Sheraton might help change your mind. The new, 600-room resort sits at the north end of the beach strip, overlooking the bay. The guestrooms, which range from standard superior and pool access rooms to 79-sq-meter ocean view suites, offer modest, modern comfort at affordable prices (from B1,800/night). The family suite, meanwhile, features a dedicated kids room. There’s also a spacious kids club, plus five bars and restaurants. Beer geeks will be pleased to find the Four Points’ “best brews” initiative here, too, offering local craft beer on tap. 198/8-9 Thawewong Rd., Patong, 076-645999 PAI KHON KAEN

Jam out to indie rock and Thai folk tunes at the E-san Music Festival

CHIANG RAI

The newly opened Athita hotel adds a gorgeous, rustic touch to sleepy Chiang Saen. Built with brick and teak wood to reflect the historic city’s architecture, the riverside hotel boasts nine rooms bursting with character. Some overlook the 700-year-old temple next door, while others offer outdoor bathtubs or private lotus gardens. All feature tons of warm, tropical teak. There’s a quaint indoor-outdoor cafe offering northern food, plus tons of activities on offer, making this a great base for exploring the city. Rooms are currently 10 percent off for winter, too (from B3,150 net; includes breakfast). 984 Moo 2 Wiang, Chiang Saen, Chiang Rai, athitahotel.com

We create brand stories with influence studio.asia-city.com

An honest-to-goodness music festival? In 2020? If you’re suddenly questioning whether you’re living in an alternate reality, chill for a minute. On Nov 27-29, the ninth annual E-san Music Festival is going ahead as scheduled. Held at the Ubonrat Dam outside Khon Kaen, the music festival dedicated to indie rock and real Isaan folk is back with Woodstock-like vibes. No lineup has been announced yet, although Yellow Fang has teased an appearance on its social channels. Either way, expect to hear rootsy Northeastern sounds in grass fields filled with pitched tents and folks in festival attire. More information is available at fb.com/esanmusicfestival.

Channel your inner mountaineer at this rugged race in northern Thailand Although you can’t ski in Hokkaido or hike around Europe at the moment, adventure still awaits in the country’s farthest corners. After hosting a surprisingly packed race in October that saw participants either run-hiking from Mae Taeng to Pai or looping the quiet outpost in Mae Hong Son province, The Westwind off-road ultra marathon returns Jan, 2021. The event this time traverses the verdant hills around Pai, ranging in distance from 12km up to 120km (yikes), with a few very long but not “will I survive this?” long options between the two. Visit thewestwindtrail.run for more information.

neighborhood | sukhumvit sois 20-22

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 9, 2020

Amritsr

Forest Bake

Soi 22

The Friese Greene Club

A Bar

In the Belly of the Beast Walking past the glitzy fivestar hotels on Sukhumvit Soi 20 or the seedy bars and massage parlors on Soi 22, you might feel as if you’re in Pattaya. Don’t abandon ship, though. These parallel sois between Asok and Phrom Phong are home to globe-spanning restaurants, awesome rooftop bars, and some hidden gems, too. By Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley

BK ASKS

What do you like most about this neighborhood?

Coffee & Breakfast Cafes are scarce, but there are a few gems to be found. Start your day a short walk away at Artis on Soi 18 with a ham and gruyere cheese ciabatta sandwich (B125) paired with a double americano (B110), or head to 1989 Hostel & Cafe on Soi 22 for the American breakfast set (B169; fried or scrambled eggs, bacon, toast, and coffee or tea). Further down the soi, Forest Bake offers some ridiculously good-looking cakes, baked goods, and Insta-worthy drinks. Try the Fox Tales Carrot Cake (B165) with the espresso-based Orange Black mocktail (B120). For a thirst-quencher, the Triple P soda (B125; passion fruit, peach and pineapple juice ice ball garnished with an orange slice) hits the spot.

Lunch & Dinner Get your German food fix at Bei Otto with the huge Bavarian Platter (crispy pork knuckle, grilled sau-

TRIIN UDRIN, SOI 22 RESIDENT “I love the mixed vibe of the area—you can live it up or keep it casual. I can walk to several rooftop bars for amazing sunset views, or go for some delicious Thai food on those ‘not sure what I fancy nights.’”

Berlin’s Doner Kebab

sages, sauerkraut, gravy, mashed potatoes, fried onions, and bread dumplings; B1,690), or hit up Berlin’s Doner Kebab for a mean Australian beef and lamb doner set (B330) served with fries and a soft drink. If you’re all about Indian eats, stop by Saras for vegetarian comfort food like aloo methi (potatoes and methi leaves sauteed in garlic and spices, B230), or Amritsr for the rich butter chicken (B340). Stay curious at Chesa, where you can try traditional Swiss cuisine like rinds gulash stroganoff (beef goulash stroganoff served with cubes of tenderloin and paprika gravy, B710), or J Cafe, the Israeli restaurant-slash-mini bakery and supermarket dealing in kosher food (mushroom hummus, B209; cheese bourekas, B189).

Drinks Unwind to breathtaking views of the Sukhumvit skyline at Sky on 20 at the Novotel Bangkok, where affordable cocktails (B300 for a New

York Sour; B350 for a Negroni) meet chilled house music, or grab a seat at gin specialist ABar Rooftop’s 38th-floor, open-air patio at the Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park. Want to keep it low-key? Wine Connection (B59 for a glass of Les Solstices red or white wine at happy hour; daily 5-7pm) at Soi 20’s Mille Malle and Wine Depot on Soi 22 both offer an array of affordable bottles. Beer geeks should head to The Last Drop for their generous daily happy hours (4-8pm; Asahi B120/ Guinness B220), Buddy’s Bar & Grill for big bottles of Chang (B115), or The Fat Cow for their well-stocked fridge, with more than 40 different craft beers (Mahanakhon white ale, B140).

Transport BTS Asok is a 10-minute walk away.

Sky On 20

do at Park Origin Phrom Phong starts at B15,000/month, while a 26-sq-meter studio at The Nest Sukhumvit 22 is B22,000/month. A 68-sq-meter, one bedroom unit at Millennium Residence starts from B35,000/month. For something cozier, check out the low-rise Quartz Residence, where rooms run from B22,500-55,000/month.

Visit Check out exhibitions by emerging photographers at RMA Studio before catching your favorite indie flicks with a cocktail at The Friese-Greene Club (membership costs B400/person). Keeping fit? Treat yourself to rejuvenating treatments at Infinity Wellbeing (B1,200 for a 60-minute aromatherapy massage), or hop to Benchasiri Park for a cool-ish morning jog.

Accommodation A 30-sq-meter, one-bedroom con-

PAUL SPURRIER, OWNER OF THE FRIESE-GREENE CLUB “When much of Bangkok is becoming ‘gentrified,’ there’s something wonderfully ‘untrendy’ about Soi 22. It feels like a real, old-fashioned Bangkok street. That’s what makes it livable for me.”

TOM MICHAELI, PROJECT MANAGER OF J CAFE “The accessibility of the area is one of the best reasons to live here, together with the international crowd and variety of food, from street vendors to fancy rooftop restaurants.”

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