ENJOY BITE-SIZED LARB SKEWERS AT AN ISAAN IZAKAYA

There are fun northern flavors hiding above the Jim Thompson Art Center.

Porpor Leelasestaporn

The buzz: The Jim Thompson Art Center is getting spicier with this izakaya perched on its rooftop. But this is no ordinary drinking spot. There’s an Isaan spin on the usual yakitori to turn them into bite-sized larb skewers to enjoy with selected craft beer both on tap and by the bottle.

The vibe: After exploring the art space, climb upstairs to find Larb Siab. With an orange metallic roof, uncomfy steel chairs at the bar, and table seatings with concrete floors, the place is reminiscent of street side food stalls. Hit it early to enjoy the view and sunset or round up your friends for a night out.

The food: With the craze on mala beef skewers in Bangkok, owner Arthit “Fai” Mulsan , formerly a morlam arts curator for the art space and Isaan culture scholar, believes Isaan food culture could do better. So, he began experimenting on his creations from scratch, starting by selecting part of the beef to hone taste profiles. The result was larb siab: addictive, bite-sized skewers complete with toasted rice powder, bird’s eye chilis, lime juice, and fish sauce. His basic skewers, ranging from B30-40 each, include beef onglet, shank, duck thigh, and pork intestines—dried and crispy on the outside as they should be. His special bites see Isaan sausage (B40) stuffed—and later torched— with cheese, a combination we never saw coming but is delightful in an unusual way. There are also vegetarian options available, from grilled eggplants and okra to orinji mushroom, all finished with his homemade nam prik pao sauce.

Why we’d come back: While Bangkok may never experience a shortage when it comes to finding rooftop drinking spots, Larb Siab offers a very affordable spot and cheap food to pair with your beer drinking. With the chill vibe and friendly chatter from the owner and the staff, it won’t disappoint. ●

4/F Jim Thompson Art Center, 10/1 Kasem San Soi 2, 098-361-9389. Open Wed-Sun 5-11pm.

FRAN’S

58, Soi Ngamdupli, 02-002-1303. Open daily 8am-6pm.

Bangkok’s food scene has been under siege by the culinary might of Iberry Group, a restauranteur behind several notable names like premium beef noodle chain Thongsmith, Thai-Vietnamese restaurant An Com An Ca, and this massively popular brunch spot, Fran’s. Ever since the venue first opened its doors in August, 2022, the popularity shows no signs of waning, and practically no one seems to be immune.

Lines and queues show early in the morning; even the online bookings require reservation one month in advance, and the available time slots rarely allow people with real jobs a spot on weekdays.

For all the craze, it is justified, really. After all, the venue combines the might of the restaurateur group and guidance from Chalee Kader (100 Mahaseth, Mickey’s Diner, and Wana Yook). With its photogenic, glasshouselike setting filled with natural light, it’s no surprise to see foodies, hipsters, and locals alike flocking to taste the magic here.

When we look past those magical elements, however, we see the venue for what it really is, and like any other restaurant, certain major flaws—big ones, we’d say— prevent it from reaching greatness.

The Achilles heel is the consistency of the food. This is typical of the places where head chefs don’t regularly station. When Kader is here, the food is excellent; when he’s not, the quality tends to slump—completely boiled eggs for the eggs Benedict, for instance, has been a previously reported complaint.

Luckily, our experience when dining there didn’t suffer that fate. Our velvety bacon and scrambled eggs (B390) arrived with a glossy sheen and a soft, creamy texture. On top is a massive chunk of juicy maple syrup glazed bacon, which looks perhaps even better than the menu. But to our surprise, we couldn’t taste a trace of sweetness; the syrup in the bacon was imperceptible, rendering it to a mere insipid hunk of meat.

Another matter is the cost. The dishes since opening five months ago have skyrocketed from their initial prices. Our steak and eggs, another of its showpieces featuring thinly sliced hanger steak served alongside sunny side up eggs and fried sweet potatoes, sets you back B880 compared to the original price of B790. Admittedly, the quality is undeniably good, but for this price, we could get real butcher work from elsewhere for lower prices. The fried sweet potatoes on the side are a real showstopper, even more satisfactory than the steaks.

This isn’t to say that our time wasn’t pleasant. The salmon pesto pasta (B380) was even better than some pasta-focused places in Bangkok, arriving with a hearty portion (enough for two). But the most vaunted dish we had was the simple flan (B160); the rich, soft, cloudy texture melted inside. Perhaps, in retrospect, we should have ordered more of this instead of the steak plate. ●

Ginza Sushi Ichi

3/F, 999 Gaysorn Center, room 3F-08 , 02-250-0014. Open Tue-Sun 11:30am2:30pm; 5:30-10pm. (Closed on Toyosu Fish Market holidays)

Far from your average sushi restaurant, Ginza Sushi Ichi is affiliated with the Michelin-starred Tokyo restaurant of the same name. Smartly dressed bilingual waitresses guide you to the twin 11-seat dining rooms centered around sushi preparation areas. The interior goes heavy on hinoki wood for a calming environment. Ginza Sushi Ichi boasts flying its fish straight from Tokyo’s Tsukiji Market and is the first Bangkok restaurant to promise that, no matter what day you dine, the fish will have been at the market less than 24 hours before service. The omakase service style means the chefs decide what you eat, all of whom are trained by Masakazu Ishibashi, the acclaimed head chef of the Michelin-star mother branch.

Exclusively for Citi and UOB Credit Card members

Get 10% discount for Citi ULTIMA, Citi Prestige, Citi Premier, Citi Mercedes, Citi Royal Orchid Plus Preferred and Select, UOB Infinite and UOB PRIVI Miles Or

Get 5% discount for other Citi and UOB Credit Cards on food only when spending THB 10,000 or more /sales slip (for lunch) or when spending THB 17,000 or more /sales slip (for dinner)

(excluding other promotions)

1 Jan ’23 – 31 Dec ’23

Terms and Conditions apply

New Japanese joint in Phrom Phong serves fresh, addictive bowls of udon

Phrom Phong may be saturated with Japanese restaurants, but this udon specialist—despite opening for just two months—is garnering crowds for its gigantic bowls of freshly made udon noodles. Between the alleys in Sukhumvit Soi 43, Udon Sakaba Kitaro Labo not only serves dense noodles with delectable variations but also dubs as a spot for premium-quality sukiyaki to get you out of your post-work funk. Set in a two-storey shophouse, Udon Sakaba Kitaro Labo is decorated with simple wood furniture, with the majority of seating traditional low Japanese tables on the first floor. If you arrive in a large business group, head upstairs to find enclosed private rooms on the second floor.

1/2 Soi Saeng Mukda. Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-2pm; 5-10pm.

The much-hyped No Name Noodle expands its ramen empire to Thonglor

The brains behind No Name Noodle, Shin Inoue, is teasing his cult of ramen followers with a new noodle place: The Shoyu Stand, soon to open at J Avenue Thonglor Soi 15. Though not much information about his new location is known, we’re quite sure you can expect the same quality—and difficulty booking—his new shoyu place. Opened in early 2022, No Name Noodle has been fully booked—to the point that even media outlets have to join queues like everyone else. As of now, you can expect more updates from the restaurant’s Instagram. Hopefully, this iteration will ease up on the rules. J Avenue, Thonglor Soi 15.

This boxy bakery in Asok churns out intensely rich soft-baked cookies

There’s a new cookie spot you’ll want to check out the next time you hit Asok. The tiny, minimalist, clean-looking bakery The Cream Factory boasts six different flavors of their NYC-inspired cookies, complete with crunchy outsides and moist, luscious insides. Priced at B120, their basic flavors include double choc, OG chocolate chip, and peanut butter. The special cookies, meanwhile, will set you back at B130, featuring the tangy lemon cheese pie, miso white choc, and strawberry cheesecake (B150). Can’t make up your mind? Order a box of all six flavors for B770. As the venue doesn’t have any seating, you have to grab their cookies on the go.

BTS Asok, 39/1 Soi Sukhumvit 21. Open daily 10am-9pm.

Asian smokehouse Aromkwan makes its comeback in Ekkamai

Formerly at Yen Akat, the much-loved Asian smokehouse Aromkwan makes a return to the scene with its new Ekkamai location, introducing the first batch of its a la carte dishes. In a two-storey house in the residential side of Ekkamai, the new Aromkwan is more spacious, with more casual seating on the first floor and a long table for the “chef’s table” upstairs. Like his old space, you can expect Vishanu “Bank” Prempuk to go into full gaga mode during the chef’s table session (B1,500/person), with his almost theatrical performance reminding you of a wrestling arena with the backdrop of old-school Malaysian music.

145 Pridi Banomyong Soi 14, 094-235-6662. Open TueSun 5pm-11pm.

Serving instant noodle inspired dishes, Mama opens its first restaurant

Ask what the Thai national dish is, and kaprow, padthai, or tom yum kung might pop into your head. But you absolutely can not forget about the long-standing favorite for the thrifty: an instant cup of Mama noodles. Recently, the instant noodle brand unveiled its first restaurant chain, Mama Station , dedicated to churning out their affordable bowls of noodles and other dishes inspired by their products. Located in Mini Mall Phetkasem 98, the first branch of its kind boasts a variety of noodles, ranging from the all-time classic moo sab (minced pork) for B49 to Korean-inspired flavors like stir-fried Korean hot sauce (B89) and Korean hot pot noodles (B139).

Mini Mall Phetkasem Soi 98. Open daily 11am-8pm.

Taking Japanese fireside dining to another level

Soho Hospitality—the team behind Above Eleven, Cantina, Havana Social, Soho Pizza, and Charcoal Tandoor Grill—has birthed their latest baby, Yankii, a Japanese restaurant in robatayaki style, equipped with a full bar. Robatayaki is basically firesidestyle dining, where you get to sit next to a bunch of ingredients and a charcoal-lit stove. You can ask them to grill everything you see in front of you. It’s fun, lively, and super casual with the staff shouting their welcomes as soon as you walk in. The dining area is on the upper floor above the bar—inspired by dagashi shops from the 50s and their colorful candies—to continue your drinking upstairs with the grilled bites.

Skyview Hotel, G/F, 12 Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-821-6808. Open daily 6pm-2am.

Ginza Tenharu

3/F, 999 Gaysorn Center, room 3F-23 , 02-070-0014. Open Tue-Sun 11:30am2:30pm; 5:30-10pm. (Closed on Toyosu Fish Market holidays)

This is not Bangkok’s first tempura omakase—a chef’s selection of premium deep-fried produce served around a sushi-style counter—but it is its most pedigreed. Tenharu is here thanks to the one-Michelin-star Ginza Sushi Ichi team, and like that restaurant, this one also hails from a renowned mother branch in Tokyo. It’s true omakase style: 12-person counter with an immaculately understated design with two chefs manning a pair of glass entombed frying stations, where they conduct the cooking in a light atmosphere. Enormous Hokkaido scallops, decadent Kobe beef, nori stuffed with sea urchin and other such highly prized produce—all jetpropelled from Japanese markets—gets delicately fried in sunflower oil and served plate by plate to customers.

Exclusively for Citi and UOB Credit Card members

Get 10% discount for Citi ULTIMA, Citi Prestige, Citi Premier, Citi Mercedes, Citi Royal Orchid Plus Preferred and Select, UOB Infinite and UOB PRIVI Miles

Or

Get 5% discount for other Citi and UOB Credit Cards on food only when spending THB 10,000 or more /sales slip (for lunch) or when spending THB 17,000 or more /sales slip (for dinner)

(excluding other promotions)

1 Jan ’23 – 31 Dec ’23

Terms and Conditions apply

Larder’s new breakfast menu is simple but radiates quality

Phrom Phong’s rising star brunch spot

Larder has launched their new breakfast menu, bringing together personalized dishes and showcasing some mouthwatering Polish staples. Dubbed Brekkie 2.0, the menu, though simple, has depth and effuses with the chefs’ personal touches. Their guacamole topped with gooey a poached egg and crispy rye crackers (B260), for instance, distinguishes itself from the regular mashed avocado by mixing it with coriander oil.

The hard-to-book Thai restaurant

Baan Nual moves to a new location

The two-table Thai restaurant Baan Nual is moving from their original location in Sam Sen to Fueang Nakhon Road in Phra Nakhon, according to recent Instagram posts. The new location doesn’t look like a rustic, traditional Thai-style wooden house anymore, but it appears to have a bigger space and is still keeping with the local shophouse-style vibe. The new venue should be ready around midyear. Baan Nual serves no-BS Thai dishes in big portions; they send diners a list of dishes available on the day of booking to order in advance. Then they prep exactly what you order and you won’t be able to order anything on the spot.

The Loft is serving art-inspired cocktails until the end of March

Waldorf Astoria’s skyhigh bar The Loft has been low-key serving an art-inspired cocktail menu and will continue until the end of March. And it is worth checking it out. The menu is a collaboration with Thai street artist Piyasak “Muay” Khiaosaard who created a digital art print based on each drink. Muay is a self-taught street artist who uses technology to create digital art in unusual, colorful contexts. He also hopes his wild animal art can start a conversation. Created by the Italian bartender Michele Montauti, this menu is not technically a vermouthfocused menu, but Montauti knows all about vermouth and how to use it.

Kiri Tsukemen is already causing long queues

The people behind Thonglor’s beloved Kansai udon specialist Tsuru Udon recently unveiled

Kiri Tsukemen. Each option arrives with a burning stone bowl to keep your experience going. The menu—just like its compact space—sees their thick, bouncy noodles (B350) laden with slices of sous vide pork shoulder, fermented bamboo shoot menma, and perfectly soft boiled egg with a dipping sauce of your choice. Here, you get to choose from five different dipping sauces, boasting both tonkotsu (pork bone) and chicken bone broth.

New brand for healthy foodies open for delivery in Sathorn

Co-founders Nisha Phongpetra and Prima

Pattaropong have opened Good Roots , a delivery-only natural foods brand based in Sathorn, a new eatery for health-conscious foodies launched in January. The brand will focus on nutrient-dense ingredients, and diners can order from salads, bowls, and sandwiches. Salads on offer include tuna nicoise (B290) and steak and kale (B350). Though only for delivery at the moment, Good Roots plans to open a physical dining spot in the coming months. ●