20 PLACES THAT MAKE SONGWAT THE COOL SIDE OF YAOWARAT

From a legendary 60-year-old braised goose stall and an authentic Hakka holein-the-wall to emerging hip businesses, this side of Yaowarat extends its charm.

Legendary Food Stalls

Kanomjeeb Arlian

There’s a little stall with an aunty on the corner of Songwat’s entrance that serves affordable, unique shumai. For over 80 years, the dumpling cart has been passed through family hands to a fourth generation owner who blends pork, shrimp, and fried egg into her dumplings. Priced at B4 for pork and B5 for shrimp, these dumplings are perfect to start your morning stroll in Songwat.

Urai Braised Goose Noodle

Regardless of how much money you make, your chances of tasting this delicious goose palo during the weekend are zero if you arrive without a reservation. This 60-year-old restaurant has secured a top place among locals as one of the best Chinese goose spots in Bangkok. The small plate of braised goose will set you back B120, but according to local tips, the half-sized portion of the whole goose (B800) is better for sharing with four-five people.

Wooden Barrel Guay Jab

Entering A Nia Keng alley, you’ll find one of the best guay jab spots in Bangkok hidden between the floral murals and metal carts along the trail. Sixty years ago, the original owner learned how to keep his noodles fresh and springy by putting them in a wooden bucket, hence the name. Order a bowl of guay jab (B80) with crispy pork belly, pork intestines, and hearts and innards of your choice.

Yok Hua

Past the A Nia Keng shrine you’ll find this authentic Hakka restaurant on the first soi to your left. Originally run by a 90-ish-year-old amah who moved to Songwat 20 years ago, she passed the robe to her daughter-in-law, serving their unique khaomakHakka noodles (B250) and notable for its pinkish hue from the red yeast.

Gu Long Bao

This long-standing Teochew bao stall has been molding salapao for over 100 years. This OG stall wasn’t part of Songwat’s streets at first, but the family’s main kitchen always has been. Four generations have passed on the art of bao-making. Known for its yellowtinted flour from mixing sweet potatoes in the dough, the steamed buns feature a variety of fillings, ranging from pork and salted eggs to the housemade sweet taro. Gu Long Bao officially joined the Songwat community with its new, youthful-looking branch last year.

Limlaosa

Ask any local in Songwat about their favorite food stall and this 80-year-old fishball noodle stall is likely at the top of their list. Try their classic dry noodle (B60): a tang from jigchow (sour black soy sauce) encompasses the bouncy fish balls and Chinese fish sausage. The fish dumpling in the bowl may seem dull, but delights await inside.

Noo-ri Chestnut Ice Cream

Twenty years ago, the daughter of Yaowarat’s long-serving chestnut business found a way for people to enjoy kao lat in the most intriguing way: Instead of roasting them by flame, freeze them and turn them into irresistible ice cream toppings. Order a bowl of coconut milk ice cream (starting at B40) topped with frozen chestnut, the latter of which provides nutty toffee-like taste profiles. There’s also an adult option (B90) where they blend vodka into the mix.

New Wave

E-ga Food Lab

Don’t let the name fool you. The venue may have “lab” in the name, but E-ga doesn’t put you on a rollercoaster of foams, bubbles, and gels. Instead, the venue goes for homey dishes unique to different regions across the country. On our last visit, we tried the deep-fried redtail catfish sourced from Kanchanaburi served with a thick molasses-like dipping sauce; the crisp skins when dipped into the sauce are beautifully simple and straightforward.

great grandfather has been transformed into her culinary space with a flying banner celebrating the long history of Thai-Chinese cuisine. With its judicious mix of rustic and contemporary design, the place is renowned for its aesthetics, winning BK’s Top Tables 2022 for Best Restaurant Design. Her 20-course experience boasts hyperlocal ingredients through networks of fishers and local suppliers.

Opium

Fv

It’s a cafe that doesn’t serve coffee. The venue specializes in fruit and vegetable-based concoctions made from Thai ingredients you may not know. Maiyarap, or the sensitive plant, for example, is turned into a refreshing beverage (B105). At FV, you are also encouraged to try some of their rare-find treats—from the late Thai cuisine specialist Srisamorn Kongphan—which will be rotating throughout the seasons.

Rongklannuer

Breathing new life into a crumbling two-storey shophouse in Songwat, this hipster magnet drew people of all ages when it first opened in December last year, with crowds as thick as the broth. Try the emperor braised beef noodle (B250), the most lavish option on offer and featuring a medley of braised beef, beef balls, sliced tenderloins, tendons, and beef tongues— all topped with sweet chili oil and crisp garlic.

We didn’t land on moon since 1987

After capturing a fanbase in the north for nine years, the popular bar from Chiang Mai landed on Songwat’s quiet streets. This place is decorated with the owner’s various memorabilia, with hand painted pictures, random photographs, and personal letters. Drink-wise, grab classic drinks like mojitos, long islands, and gin and tonics for B150-260.

Potong

A historic building that once belonged to celebrity chef Pitchaya “Pam” Utarntham’s

One thing that always impresses at this Chinese-themed bar perched atop Potong is its unlimited growth potential. The bar boasts a 20-page menu divided into specific taste profiles, and one day you may find those old drinks have been swapped for a new batch with the same numbers. At Opium, there’s a promise of good food which we rarely find at bars in Bangkok, like the Wild Kiss (B350), grilled pork tongue skewers with caramelized exteriors saturated and tenderized with perilla seeds and finished with tangy sauce.

Stays

Hostel Urby

Offering a more laid-back riverside hangout to the five-star hotels, this playful Songwat hostel has something for everyone. Climbing the staircase to the 4th floor, you’ll find the hip cafe Woodbrook and hostel bar Barbon where you can either order a cup of coffee or beer to enjoy the breezy riverside hangout spot on large cushions.

Baan Songwat

If hostels are not for your liking, why not book a whole house? At Baan Songwat, you get four bedrooms that come with a spacious living room perfect for any family or large party who are planning to explore this side of the city. The spot is also close to the public transport like MRT Wat Mangkorn.

Luk Hostel

Just a stone’s throw from the bustling side of Songwat, you’ll find this cool-looking, raw-concrete hostel located in the quiet

Soi Vanich in Sampeng, boasting over sixstorey-high cafes and the rooftop Rise Bar.

Culture And Art

Mesa 312

Mesa in Spanish means table, and like any other table its main function is to foster collaboration and esprit de corps for creative minds. Inspired by the time she spent teaching and visiting Chinatown, the owner Myriam Rueda hopes Mesa 312 can be a cultural hive where people can exchange ideas. The studio also dubs as her Spanish language teaching center, so head there if you need your español brushed up.

Luang Kocha Itsahak Mosque

Named after a Malaysian nobleman who acted as an interpreter for King Rama V, this mosque is one of the few European-style colonial mosques in Thailand. Despite its status as a private property, Luang Kocha Itsahuk Mosque is also open to the public who wish to partake in the ceremonies.

A Nia Shrine

Nestled in an alley of the same name, this little shrine offers a dose of peace amidst the bustling backdrop of the community. Legend has it that during the influx of Chinese immigrants to the area in the reign of King Rama V, the community was crowded with households and was prone to fires, so people erected a shrine to honor Guan Yin as a way to ensure the community’s safety. The shrine is also notable for the peculiar position of its incense holders as they are all reversed—a ritual to deter bad luck.

Play Art House

Walking past the faded facades of architecture along Songwat’s streets, you’ll notice this cheerfully blue art space that stands out from the crowd. Formerly used as the owner’s family storage for footwear, Play Art House embodies the owners’ love and passion for art and exhibitions, curating artwork from both old and emerging faces on the scene. ●