BK Magazine 804 by BK Magazine

it's free! Oh, Hey Honey The cafe highlighting honey in a beehive of F&B activity Fit and Fabulous 9 ways to get in shape and feel great in Phrom Phong Fresh Ink Meet the ink master behind one of Bangkok’s best tattoo studios Oishi! Where Phrom Phong’s Japanese expats eat, drink, and hang out

NO. 804 APRIL 30, 2021. www.bkmagazine.com

These far-flung adventures are worth the trip

The Phrom Phong issue

food & drink

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, APRIL 30, 2021

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Tasty Congee & Noodle Wantun Shop This Hong Kong import brings over seven decades of congee and wonton noodle expertise to Bangkok’s fierce noodle battlefield. The wonton fillings here follow a time-honored 7:3 shrimp-pork ratio and the congee is served piping hot and comes with a bunch of sides. G/F, Siam Paragon, 991 Rama 1 Road, 02-001-9868. Open 11:30am-10pm. Other branch: thonglor, 02-108-1158.

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page 3 Who's in charge?

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 26, 2021

BK EDITORIAL

one day in...

Managing Editor Craig Sauers

How to spend 24 hours (or more) in the city’s most buzzing real estate

Senior Writers Veerabhatr Sriyananda, Alisha Pawa Contributors Megan Leon GROVE: COCONUTS MEDIA BRAND STUDIO Head of Grove Juhi Bimbhet Business Director Dietrich Neu Account Manager Summer Lee Digital Account Manager Nuttajuk Kittichailuk

Lots to love in the heart of the city You’ve taxied past the rows of houses-turned-restaurants on Soi 31. You’ve stumbled into cafes you didn’t know existed but you’d love to have in your own neighborhood. You’ve witnessed the achingly slow rise of the Emsphere, wondering, “wtf, are we Singapore now?”

Digital Strategist Manasith Linananda Senior Project Manager Sirinart Panyasricharoen Project Manager Sawanya Chantarakana

Art Director Vatanya Bongkotkarn Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Senior Graphic Designer Assaya Dejkong

feature

9 ways to work on your wellness in Phrom Phong

Senior Business Development Manager Orajira Sukkasem Business Development Manager Tassanee Mahamad, Chalida Anuwattanawong, Joseph Toh, Ain Zulkifni Business Development Executives Palita Nueangnit SOIMILK Editor Noranartta Chaikum Senior Writers Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan, Kristiya Chaisri Publisher, Printer, and Editor Tara Rattanaphas

Hand-drawn illustration by Atthaya Suaysom

Whatever you may feel about luxury malls, they’re occasionally nice to have so close to home.

08 feature

Since you also have a soul, you probably appreciate the not-so-secret Friese-Greene Club and Cinema Oasis, as well as used bookstore Dasa. Not to mention bars bursting with character. Some are even hard to find.

Japanese expats’ insider bars and restaurants

Phrom Phong is, to borrow a hideous phrase, the heart of the city. If you were born before 1990, you might have fading memories of an entirely different landscape. One thirtysomething professional who grew up in the area told us he remembers lots of greenery and the occasional dirt road, where he would ride his bike when he was young, “back when they still sold shotguns at Robinson.”

BK Magazine is a Coconuts Media publication. Founder and CEO Byron Perry Coconuts TV Head of Content Vim Shanmugam Operations Manager Clarissa Cortes

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feature

These restaurants prove Phrom Phong is Bangkok’s fine dining hub

Where to find us! Coconuts BK Limited

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In the pantheon of the city’s greatest places to eat, Phrom Phong reigns supreme. Here you have Greek, Middle Eastern, and Australian restaurants, regional Japanese specialists, Indian culinary savants who make you question everything you know about curries. You have golf and baseball centers, basketball courts and climbing gyms. You have fitness studios specializing in group exercise you’d never heard of before you took a trial class.

ON THE COVER

BK Magazine is edited by Tara Rattanaphas and published 24 times a year, twice a month by Coconuts BK Limited. Copyright © 2020 Coconuts BK Limited. The titles “BK Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of “BK Magazine” are the property of Coconuts BK Limited. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for THB50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Coconuts BK Limited. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business,copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Sunthorn Film Company Limited, 13/11-15 Soi Wat Phraya Yang, Urupongtadmai Road, Thanon Phetchaburi, Sub-district, Ratchathewi District, Bangkok.

Forget Silom, Thonglor, and Phloen Chit. Phrom Phong might be Bangkok’s hottest real estate. As far as work-life balance goes, it’s hard to beat.

feature

the last word

This cafe is all about honey

Gian Luca

From the 1950s onward, the Japanese expat community settled in the area, not far from the Embassy of Japan on New Petchaburi Road. Over time, they opened shops, restaurants, and bars, adding new texture to the tapestry of the district. Let’s not forget Villa Market, which opened its flagship store here in 1973, bringing imported products to expats hungry for a taste of home and Bangkok’s rising middle class. Under Chatichai Choonhavan’s impressively corrupt government, development took off along Sukhumvit Road. That is, until the Tom Yum Kung crisis brought it all to a screeching halt, right as the Emporium opened. But it seems we’ve returned to a time of fast-paced development. Street vendors are being quietly shooed away with alarming frequency, malls are going up again, and townhouses are just as likely to be a bar or restaurant as legitimate shelter. In these pages, we look past all that and home in on the places that make Phrom Phong such a fantastic place to live. Think world-class tattoo parlors, cafes bucking trends, Japanese restaurants so under-the-radar only your Japanese expat friends know about them. Read on for the good stuff, and shoot us an email at editorial@bkmagazine.com if you think there’s anything we’ve missed.

ONE DAY IN…

Phrom Phong

Phrom Phong is stacked. Known for glitzy malls, high-rise condos, and Japanese food, it’s also loaded with awesome bars, trendy art galleries, and globe-spanning restaurants. Here’s how to spend a day (or more) in one of Bangkok’s most happening neighborhoods. By Veerabhatr Sriyananda

MORNING Recharge your batteries with a flat white (B100) at Ceresia, an orange mocha (B140) at artsy Sometimes I Feel, or the ‘gram-worthy Monkey Brain Latte (B90) served in a skullshaped glass at art-filled Hello Strangers. For more than coffee, visit Fics 31, a cafe made for and by movie buffs, with old-school movie posters for sale and a vintage photo booth to boot. If you want a light bite, there are loads of bakeries here, including a new branch of BKK Bagels. Die-hard croissant fans go to Amantee for their plain croissant (B60), while dolled-up options like nutella and banana croissants can be had at Tiengna Viennoiserie. Truly Scrumptious will satisfy your sweet tooth with their signature black beer cake (B170), but for more wholesome food, go for a healthy spirulina-spinach bowl (B250) at Brekkie. (To see more of our favorite breakfast picks, flip to p12-13.)

LUNCH The area was home to the Embassy of Japan until 2010, and the Japanese expat community formed around it over the decades. That explains the abundance of excellent Japanese restaurants, including several new ones, like Mensho Tokyo and its tori paitan ramen (B250), and Bankara, with its satisfying tsukemen (B210). Sustaina, meanwhile, serves unique Japanese veggie and seafood dishes, like eggplant and tuna gyoza (B130) and multi-dish sets (soba noodles, tuna, and tofu rice bowl, grilled squid and veggies, winter melon soup; B390). (For other Japanese picks, flip to p8.) It’s not all Japanese here. Northern Thai at Gedhawa, eastern Thai at Sri Trat, American-Chinese at Lazy Panda, momos at Tibet Kitchen, Sichuan fare at Le Hot Chinese Hotpot, pork knuckle at Bei Otto, dak galbi at Ko Kung, naem nueng at Lele by Le Mai Anh, pork belly rice at Taiwanese joint Hoja. The neighborhood has a little of everything. Even several plant-based options. Veganerie Concept has earned a loyal following for dishes like their vegan waffles (from B165), Vistro for its plant-dappled setting and globe-spanning bites, and Veggiology for its fresh juices and smoothie bowls.

Street eats might be gradually disappearing, but you can still find some excellent spots. There’s great chicken noodle soup at a nameless stall on the right side of Sukhumvit Soi 41, Heng Heng serves queue-worthy chicken rice in the shadows of Emporium, local favorite Rungrueng Pork Noodle offers loaded tom yum noodles on Sukhumvit Soi 26, and decades-old Thong Lee on Sukhumvit Soi 20 deals in Thai-Chinese dishes like moo pad kapi.

AFTERNOON Check out emerging photographers at RMA Studio and Thai artists at SAC Gallery before catching classic flicks with a craft beer at the Friese-Greene Club (membership costs B400/ person). Health freaks can treat themselves to rejuvenating therapies at Infinity Wellbeing (B1,200 for a 60-minute aromatherapy massage) in the meantime. Looking for groceries? J Cafe, the Israeli restaurant, bakery, and supermarket, specializes in kosher food (mushroom hummus, B209; cheese bourekas, B189), and El Mercado Calle 35 stocks loads of goodies. If the hour is right, visit Naturalista Wines to get bottles of natty grape to go, or shop at Co-incidence House, a coffee kiosk-turned-lifestyle store (both straddle the line between Phrom Phong and Thonglor). The district is also home to Tew’s, one of Bangkok’s best men’s barbershops, where you can wait for your cut with a beer from O’Shea’s below.

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY,APRIL 30, 2021

DINNER Again, you have it all here. If you’re all about Indian eats, stop by Saras for vegetarian comfort food like aloo methi (potatoes and methi leaves sauteed in garlic and spices, B230). For Italian, order the calzone with fior di latte, baby spinach, mascarpone, and cooked ham (B450) at Peppina, or the classic pizza margherita (B250) at Bella Napoli. Meanwhile, Sri Lanka’s Ministry of Crab deals in 1.1kg jumbo crabs (B3,600) and giant prawns (B620 for 200-250g); Cocotte serves awesome wagyu tenderloin (B2,790); and Odtomato goes Aussie with its signature beef wellington (B1,645). Fans of Middle Eastern fare can get their fix at Beirut or Berlin’s Doner Kebab (Australian beef and lamb doner set, B330). When it comes to fine dining, you have no shortage of options. See p10-11 for more.

NIGHTLIFE Beer drinkers should head to The Last Drop for generous daily happy hours (4-8pm; Asahi B120/Guinness B220), or Hair of the Dog for well-stocked fridges and 13 taps. The Royal Oak and Robin Hood are British pub mainstays, where you can grab a pint or two with the hoi polloi. Cocktails? Phrom Phong’s got them. There’s retro speakeasy Mutual Bar, the always on-point Sugar Ray, hideaway whiskey bar Walden, creative Japanese den Salon du Japonisant, high-flying ABar and Vanilla Sky, gin palace Iron Balls Parlour, minimal Bar 335, and recently opened Thaipioka Upper Deck. For live music, jazz fans flock to Alonetogether and The Woodshed, while salsa hotspot Flamenco and Escape offer upbeat music and DJs. Bootleg Brothers are opening a microbrewery at Escape soon, too. After that opens, not much else is missing.

STAYCATIONS Phrom Phong has a wide range of hotels, including a bunch of international four- and five-star spots ideal for staycations. The massive, five-star Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park overlooks Benjasiri Park and the Mall Group’s expanding collection of luxury shopping centers (from B2,000/night). It also offers a wonderful Sunday brunch. The relatively new, 34-floor Carlton Hotel is perched right on Sukhumvit (from B1,500/night). The 185-room Skyview Hotel houses one of the better value rooftop bars in town, Mojjo, and also offers plush rooms (from B1,500/night). And there’s the upscale Hilton Sukhumvit (from B1,500/night). When the Eugenia closed, the area lost what might have been its most unique hotel. But for a stay with a little more character, there’s the uber-chic 137 Pillars Suites & Residences (from B6,500/night) and the Cabochon (from B3,000/night). Note: all rates are current, aka pandemic-reduced.

feature | get fit, feel great

SWEATING IT OUT From challenging yourself to a barre-based workout to honing your baseball swing or unwinding your muscles, here are some of the many ways you can work on your wellness in Phrom Phong. By Alisha Pawa

PHYSIQUE 57 The city’s leading barre boutique came to Phrom Phong via New York, offering fitness enthusiasts a combination of ballet and pilates. The studio offers barre-based classes, like their signature 57-minute workout, which promises a fun cardio workout to improve flexibility, increase endurance, and strengthen the muscles. Beginners can give it a shot with a drop-in class (B1,050), or take the “8-to-great” classes (B6,200) if you’re ready to commit. 2/F RQ Residence Serviced Apartment, Sukhumvit Soi 49/9 Alley, 065-696-165. Open daily 8:30am-9pm

URBAN PLAYGROUND Located in the Racquet Club, this indoor climbing space features over 7,000 square feet for climbers to ply their trade, including bouldering caves and walls, a 12-meter top climbing area, and a training zone. First-time climbers can take the Intro to Climbing class (B500) to gear up. Bring your own shoes and harness, or rent them here. Non-member one-day passes are B475. If you’re already a Racquet Club member (B4,500/month), then you can also access their tennis court, swimming pool, fitness center, yoga classes, and badminton court. Racquet Club, 8 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-119-7200. Open Mon-Fri 1-10pm, Sat-Sun 10am-10pm

THE LAB This playground for fitness junkies specializes in conditioning and personal training. That work is done with the aid of monkey bars, TRX suspension trainers, HIIT classes, muay Thai lessons, and more. Coaches offer consultation and support for a range of goals: endurance, weight loss, nutrition, rehabilitation, and more. Try a drop-in class (B700), get the personal training (B2,000), or splurge with the six-week strength-building program, aka “Massathon” (B8,500). 2/F RSU Tower, Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-662-1618. Mon-Fri 6:45am-9pm, Sat-Sun 9am-6pm

Urban Playground

Physique 57

The Lab

FLOW HOUSE BANGKOK This urban water park is the ultimate place for beach-starved athletes and weekend warriors. The main attraction is the Flow Rider, which lets you sharpen your surfing and bodyboarding skills. Apart from that, Flow House features a coffee shop, a gaming room, a sports bar, and restaurants (RIP Changwon Express at Flow House). Access starts at B900/hour. Member cards are B3,990 (four hours free). 120/1 A-Square, Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-108-5210. Open Mon-Fri 2-9pm, Sat-Sun 11am-9pm; closed Wed

GOLF SWING BANGKOK Tired of getting grilled when you tee off under the Bangkok sun, or just need some practice to impress your business partners on the green? Enter this indoor golf course and academy, featuring golf stimulation, a driving range, golf lessons with instructors, and impressive-sounding ballistic measuring instruments to perfect your swing. 34/1 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-045-1155. Open Mon-Fri 9am-10pm, Sat-Sun 8am-8pm

OASIS SPA

Flow House Bangkok

Amid gardens and lotus ponds, this long-standing sanctuary is the definition of an urban retreat. The spa boasts 15 cozy treatment rooms, all featuring gorgeous Lanna-style decor. There’s a bit of a throwback men’s/women’s deal here. The Queen of Oasis treatment (B3,900), clearly intended for women, offers hot stone, Swedish-style aromatherapy massage, while the male-targeted King Of Oasis (B3,900++) provides hot oil massage. Oasis Spa also offers treatments like body scrubs, body wraps, hydrotherapy, and traditional or ayurvedic massages. 64 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-262-2122. Open 10am-10pm

Oasis Spa

BENJASIRI PARK No, it isn’t very big. But size isn’t everything. The only true green space amid a sea of concrete neighbors luxury malls EmQuartier and Emporium—and whatever EmSphere is supposed to be—giving you a pocket of greenery ideal for strolls, running, or outdoor yoga (avoid peak after-work hours, though). The park has an outdoor sports facility as well, including a basketball court, tennis court, and skateboarding rink. Don’t miss out on the multimedia water fountain dance, either. Sukhumvit 22-24, Open 5am-9pm

BANGKOK BATTING CENTER

Golf Swing Bangkok

Bangkok Batting Center

Even the great American pastime awaits in Phrom Phong. At the back end of Sukhumvit Soi 31, these covered batting cages let you blow off some steam, or practice your swing if you’re serious about baseball, with pitching machines that range in speed from 80-130km. B1,000 buys you an hour of all-you-can-bat, or B100 gets you 25 pitches. There’s beer and soft drinks for sale, too. 108/1 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-262-0699. Open daily 10:30am-8pm

ZOOM STUDIO Prefer a more upbeat workout? Studio Zoom is a place for dance lovers who are looking to get loose and try something new. While all genres are taught here, the studio is popular for their hip-hop, street jazz, and contemporary jazz classes (beginner to advanced levels). Go for a drop-in class (B650) or get a four-class pass (B2,000) if you’ve found your jam. 1/F Bio House, Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-260-0728. Open daily 9am-8pm

Benjasiri Park

feature | where japanese expats eat

O IS H I! Since the mid-twentieth century, the Japanese expat community has been centered around Phrom Phong. Not surprisingly, considering Thailand now has the fourth-highest number of Japanese expats in the world, Bangkok boasts loads of real-deal Japanese bars and restaurants. Want to know where the community goes for a taste of home? Check out these expat-approved bars and restaurants in Phrom Phong. By BK Magazine

Komugi Udon

Hailiang

Ramen Ichiban

SAN KYU PREMIUM This yakiniku spot is so popular it outgrew its original alleyway location and now occupies a glass-fronted, road-facing spot on Soi Promsri, plus a few other branches in Bangkok. You can opt for pork and chicken, but it’s really all about the beef here. Cuts range from skirt steak to short rib, from thinly sliced tongue to rich, fatty liver, and all of it is imported from Miyazaki and Sendai. 5/3 Soi Promsri (Sukhumvit Soi 39), 062-419-2999

KITARO SUSHI SUKHUMVIT 26 Unlike the surrounding high-end sushi places, this off-thebeaten path sushi spot is not over the top in terms of style or price. Go straight for the nigiri (B120/2pcs) with options like kanpachi (amberjack), hirame (Japanese flounder), and saba (Pacific mackerel), or be brave and go for the omakase (B300-B600). The hitsumabushi (B690), a delicious bowl of grilled, sticky eel over rice, is also a good option. 10 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-665-6066

Terra

RAMEN ICHIBAN

IZAKAYA FURUSATO

This small ramen shop sits discreetly on Sukhumvit 24, donning just a red noren above its entrance. Inside, the decor is as simple as it gets, with counter seating and tables in an open space. They are known for making a milder, clear ramen while also offering Chinese-style dishes. Beyond reliable options like the miso ramen (B200), a popular choice here is the nirasoba (B170), noodles in a light soy broth with loads of green onions and minced pork.

This izakaya, located again on Sukhumvit Soi 33, is packed with almost only Japanese expats and has a menu with pretty much anything you’re in the mood for. From a full on yakitori menu with tsukune (chicken meatballs, B120) and sunagimo (chicken gizzards, B120). The yakimono menu offers grilled saba teriyaki (Pacific mackerel, B190) as well as sanma shioyaki (salt-glazed Pacific saury, B200). There’s also a nigiri menu with options like ebi (shrimp, B130) and hotate (scallops, B200). They even offer a California roll (B330) if you’re so inclined.

WAON PIANO & SCOTCH

Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-258-6314

This snack bar is the go-to spot for karaoke. The real thing, not some low-lit KTV or a euphemism for a brothel. The husbandand-wife owners are true music fans. If you want to sing with a pianist on the keys and a bassist and guitarist at the ready, you can do it here. Often the songs are sung in Japanese, but you can request anything from jazz to The Beatles and belt out your favs.

KOMUGI UDON

10/11 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-665-6363

IZAKAYA YAKAN Tucked away past massage parlors in a quasi-residential street, this cozy izakaya is easily spotted with its flags bearing shochu kettle prints. As far as drinks go, shochu is the main draw. Foodwise, there’s loads of Japanese gap glaem, like tamagoyaki (grilled omelet), sashimi, sardine sandwiches, and a surprising number of natto-based bites. Everything is delicious. Adding to the lively vibe is the Famicom in the back of the restaurant, where regulars play old-school Nintendo games from the 90s. 4/19 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 062-150-5066

It would be impossible to miss this spot as there’s usually a line of people waiting outside for a table. Komugi prides itself on udon noodles, and they do them damn well in their Siroi Curry Udon (B300). An enormous bowl of homemade udon sits in a piping hot curry broth lightly covered in a potato and cream espuma—definitely not for the faint-hearted. Another favorite is the kitsune udon (B240), fresh noodles simmering in a clear, dried fish broth topped with a slab of deep-fried tofu. Don’t miss their soft serve parfait specials, either. 51/5 Sukhumvit 39, 02-000-9612

9/22 Sukhumvit 33, 02-261-4580

TERRA There are a few Terra locations in Bangkok, but the mostloved is on Sukhumvit Soi 24, tucked away in a sub-soi next to massage parlors and a ryokan. Reservations here are highly recommended as there are only a few tables, with the ground floor offering two-seater booths. The food is Hakata-style and the must-try is the motsunabe (B480), a beef tripe hot pot cooked at the table. Order a portion of champon noodles (B60) for dipping in the creamy and slightly fatty broth. Don’t even think of missing the shirono goma kanpachi (B480), amberjack sashimi served with an addictive sesame sauce.

SAKURA SAKU

Sukhumvit Soi 26, 082-472-9715

It’s all about sukiyaki at this popular spot, and the beef is the main attraction. Although it’s located on a sketchier part of Sukhumvit Soi 33, Sakura has been luring in locals with their broad selection of super thin and tender beef slices made for dipping in hot broth. There are two Japanese beef options: black wagyu (B980) and Satsuma (B1,380). Each comes in a set with vegetables for sharing. Opt for sukiyaki or shabu (clear soup). Both are delicious.

HAILIANG

22 Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-258-4893

4/11 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-662-1576

This tiny whiskey den feels like a back-alley Tokyo bar. Don’t be afraid to enter, though. Osaka-born barkeep Jay will warmly guide you to the perfect drink within your price range, whether it’s a Japanese single malt or well-aged and hard-to-come-by bourbon. Be careful which bottle you point to on the shelves— some of this stuff stretches well into six figures.

feature | shop ‘til you drop

BKMAGAZINE MAGAZINEFRIDAY, FRIDAY,APRIL MARCH 2021 BK 30, 12, 2021

09 09

Retail Therapy

Pavement

Dasa Books

Phrom Phong may be home to a couple of Bangkok’s most iconic luxury malls, but malls don’t dominate the landscape. Secondhand shops, bookstores, skate stores, and more— the neighborhood is home to a wide range of independent shops and boutiques. Here are some of the best. By BK Magazine

B Store

Pavement

A high-end womenswear, menswear, and lifestyle store that focuses on high-quality fabrics and detail, B Store stocks an eclectic mix of fashion items from global brands and designers. It’s a creative hotspot for fashion enthusiasts looking for unexpected pairings. Think A Unit Keith Haring T-Shirt (B5,700) or Sonic Suede Rosso Sneakers (B13,990), and names like Ambush, Sunnei, and Hey Mayner. There’s also an in-house coffee bar if you want to recharge. 235/20 Sukhumvit 31, 063-650-0506, Open Tue-Sun 10am-7:30pm

Hailing from New Zealand, the multi-label skateboard brand Pavement has found an outpost near Phrom Phong’s skater hub, Benjasiri Park. Decked out with raw concrete shelves and metal accents, the minimal space offers a good range of cult streetwear and skateboard labels. Drop by to check out new apparel collections from local brand Preduce, UK’s Places+Faces, and US’s RipnDip, as well as decks from Hockey and Pavement, to name a few. 594 Sukhumvit Rd. 064-587-3585. Open daily noon-9pm.

Co-incidence House

Peace Store

Treasure Factory

Co-incidence House

B Store

The team behind hip stationery brand and coffee stand Co-incidence are behind this concept store-slash-cafe on Soi 49. The homey space houses the brand’s signature lifestyle products, like graphic totes (B350), stylish plates (from B350), reusable coffee mugs (B100), minimal bottle lamps (B2,850), and coconut bar soap (B250). After shopping for home decor and office items, try their specialty house blend coffee (from B80 for an espresso or americano) or the Black Tonic (B140) for lighter flavors. 3 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 063-465-6018. Open Tue-Sun 9am-6pm

Peace Store

Dasa Books

Treasure Factory

The 17-year-old secondhand bookstore stocks over 18,000 titles, ranging from classic novels and travelogues to cookbooks and memoirs. The shop arguably has the largest selection of secondhand books in Bangkok, if not all of Thailand, and they’re available in several languages. There are also CDs, for those who still have the tech capable of playing them. All books are searchable on their website and available for mail delivery. 714/4 Sukhumvit Rd. (between Soi 26 and 28), 02-661-2993. Open daily 10am-8pm. dasabookcafe.com

The popular secondhand and consignment shop, which boasts over 180 branches in Japan, occupies a department store-sized space on Sukhumvit 39. It stocks everything from high fashion and furniture to appliances, ceramics, board games, and musical instruments. The shop also pays cash for your consumer goods. You can bring them to the store or have a Treasure Factory visit your place to appraise and pick up your items. 29 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-258-8980. Open daily 10am-8pm. treasure-f.com

Parrish Jones At this high-end, lounge-like tailor shop, you’ll find a wide range of ready-to-wear shirts, jeans, leather shoes, and accessories. But the highlight of the shop is the next-level tailoring service on the second floor. The tailors use 3D body-scanning technology to measure the exact shape of your body within seconds. Prices start from B1,800 for tailored shirts, B3,900 for custom-made jeans, and B11,700 for tailored suits. There’s also a barber (cuts from B450) and The Look Lounge bar downstairs, primed for happy hours. 795-797 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-091-0600. Open Tue-Sun 10am-midnight. parrishjones.com

The charming, vintage-style furniture and home decor store offers a collection of artisanally crafted items that are great value for money. Japanese-owned, the store focuses on Asian handicrafts, and their Thai and Vietnamese souvenirs are known to be particularly attractive. Expect to find a unique selection of bags, clothing, decorative items, and tableware amid a fascinatingly odd bunch of goods. A perfect place to hunt down gifts for friends and family. 7/3 Sukhumvit Soi 31 Rd., 0-26620649. Open 10am-6pm.

food & drink | eating well in phrom phong

FINE DINING DISTRICT

Gaggan Anand After famously splitting with his financial backers in 2019, outspoken chef Gaggan Anand rebranded his restaurant and moved into a gorgeous, renovated townhouse on Sukhumvit Soi 31. Months later, a global pandemic would slow the ascent of his exciting double-decker spot, but it hasn’t stopped the chef’s madcap creativity. A new Star Wars-themed tasting menu is the latest schtick, which involves a light show, things being blown up, and plenty of surprises. 68 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 098-883-1022

From cutting-edge Indian restaurants to treasured Italian haunts, Phrom Phong has arguably become Bangkok’s fine dining hub— Sukhumvit Soi 31 and its beautifully transformed townhouses, in particular. Here are a dozen awesome restaurants that prove Phrom Phong is the city’s best place to eat for people with deep pockets or expense accounts.

Haoma Down the road from Gaggan Anand, another Indian restaurant aims to upend preconceived notions of what the cuisine should be. Deepanker Khosla is a zealot for the farm-to-table and zero-waste approach. Equal parts urban farm and modern fine-dining restaurant, he grows a vast array of edible greens onsite that feature throughout neo-Indian tasting menus, which now include an entirely plant-based option. 231/3 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-038-5821

By BK Magazine

Enoteca Seventeen-year-old Enoteca has become a sort of testing ground for Bangkok’s top Italian chefs over the years. Now, Turin-native Stefano Borra runs the kitchen, bringing Piedmontese flavors to the table. There are two tasting menus—”classic” and “surprising”—offering highlights from years past, plus modern takes on hearty northern Italian dishes, like slow-cooked pork cheek with paccheri, Pecorino cheese, and fried onions. 39 Sukhumvit Soi 27, 02-258-4386 Exclusively for Citi Credit Card members Get a complimentary Panna cotta valued THB 460++ and Get free corkage charge when spending via Citi Credit Card (limit 1 set /card /table /sales slip) 1 Jan – 31 Dec ’21 Enoteca

Mia Young chefs Top Russell and Michelle Goh hold court over a kitchen that deals in modern European flavors inflected with pan-Asian touches. Mia’s design is arguably as much of a draw as its bold flavors. Dine in a room plastered with William Morris wallpaper, another bursting with pastels and tropical plants, or a third so dark you might feel complicit in some sort of espionage ring. The experience here is nothing short of fun. 30 Attha Kawi Soi 1, 02-258-6745 Exclusively for Citi Credit Card members Get a complimentary drink valued THB 410++ when ordering Tasting Menu 5 course and Get a complimentary drink valued THB 490++ when ordering Tasting Menu 7 course for Citi ULTIMA, Citi Prestige, Citi Premier, Citi Royal Orchid Plus Preferred (limit 1 glass /person / card /table /sales slip) Gaggan Anand

Mia

1 Apr – 30 Nov ’21

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, APRIL 30, 2021

Sushi Masato

Philippe

The Table by Chef Pam

Bangkok’s omakase scene has gone from zero to 100 in just a couple of years, and while many of these hallowed dens of raw fish can seem daunting, that’s not the case here. Japan-native Masato Shimizu earned his stripes in New York, and it shows in his warm, conversational demeanor. He might break out a book mid-meal to educate you on the relative merits of murazaki or bafun uni, or to explain his process of charcoal grilling. If you’re not up for 20 courses, the raw bar upstairs offers a taste of what makes this place special, but with a less punishing price tag. 3/22 Sukhumvit 31 Soi 1, 02-040-0015

At this long-established French classic, expect your roasted quail “supreme” or label Rouge pork belly confit to have been labored over by a Corsican chef-owner who’s almost always in the kitchen (except when greeting guests post-meal). Like the food, the decor doesn’t stray into the gadgetry and eye candy of the 2020s. Think plush, turquoise silk wallpaper, dark wood panels, and imposing flock curtains. 20/15-17 Sukhumvit 39, 02-259-4577/8

No stranger to the limelight, chef Pichaya “Pam” Utharntharm—a former chef at three-Michelin-starred Jean-Georges in New York—was one of the first to introduce private dining to the Bangkok food scene. The restaurant focuses on New American cuisine, fusing Pam’s mastery of all things grilled, smoked, and roasted, while tying in elements of her Thai-Chinese background. There’s no charge for corkage, so guests can bring their own drinks, although they do offer a nice selection of wines and champagne. 80 Soi Sukhumvit 33, 096-130-5716

AdHoc A flagbearer for the private dining scene, AdHoc takes an elegant yet casual approach to fine dining. Chef Supasit “Tap” Kokpol draws inspiration from his Thai-Chinese heritage, as well as his globe-spanning experience in kitchens everywhere from England to Melbourne. The delicate, contemporary Asian-inspired menu highlights ingredients from dedicated farmers across the region in 10 courses, which change quarterly in keeping with the seasons. 36/22 (Soi Phrom Si 1) Sukhumvit Soi 39, 065-143-1111

Exclusively for Citi Credit Card members Get Priority Booking and Get a complimentary non-alcoholic beverage valued THB 450++ and Get Birthday cake valued THB 1,200 when spending via Citi ULTIMA Credit Card (limit 1 glass and 1 cake /card /table /sales slip)

Sushi Masato

Antonio’s This place has been around for what feels like forever, as if the Phrom Phong townhouse it occupies were a foundational feature in the city’s tapestry. Regulars love it for the on-point, familiar southern Italian favorites—porcini ravioli covered in truffle cream, lamb shank penne, fresh seafood—although you can get a little of everything, from lasagne bolognese to pasta served however you like it. 26 Sukhumvit Soi 29, 095-110-1105

(Advance reservations is required) 1 Jan – 31 May ’21

Appia Going strong since 2013, Italian restaurant Appia maintains a devotion to so-called “slow food.” Handmade pastas, ragu simmered for hours, dryaged beef and pork leg, products that hail from the pastoral Italian landscape of your dreams. The setting is as welcoming as ever, retaining its charming trattoria feel with linen tablecloths, warm lighting and a wall decked out with photos and artwork, while the mezzanine upstairs has been transformed into a beautiful wine room. 20/4 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-261-2056

Sorn

Philippe

Sorn’s star expanded once it entered the upper echelon of Michelin accreditation, but the southern Thai institution was making waves long before that. The tucked away spot from Baan Ice founder Supaksorn Jongsiri and chef Yodkawan U-pumpruk is a sensation. Bold flavors, traditional techniques—fermentation, coconut milk squeezed on-site daily—a dedication to sourcing from southern Thai farmers, and a decadent, exclusive dining room make this restaurant a must for anyone who cares about fine dining. 56 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 099-081-1119

Indus

Sorn

From the gorgeous 1960s house and garden to the hyper-vigilant service and unctuous curries, this restaurant has represented the peak of northern Indian dining in Bangkok for over a decade. If it’s a well-executed butter chicken or chicken tandoori you want, this is the place. The shockingly affordable 10-course tasting menu (from B900) takes the cuisine in a more modern, but no less rewarding, direction. 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 086-339-8582

6 great breakfast spots

Holey Artisan Bakery

NEW AND NOTED TABLE TALK

ARTUR G/F, Bliston Suwan Park Residence, Phloen Chit Rd. (9 Soi Tonson), 089-000-1288. Open Mon-Fri, 5-10pm; Sat-Sun, 11:30am-1pm, 5-10pm. After running some very successful hotel restaurants, owner Artur packed all his secrets and opened this French gourmet steakhouse that offers various tableside carvings and preparations, such as Aussie Black Angus, Wagyu beef, and classic French items. The result is the venue which often outdoes them, thanks to Artur's unerring eye in selecting only the best produce and his personal touch hotels can’t compete with.

Exclusively for Citi Credit Card members Get 10% discount on food only

Holey Artisan Bakery

Bartels

El Mercado Calle 35

The first of three branches of a rapidly expanding cafe empire, Holey is a hub for Phrom Phong foodies looking to scratch their breakfast itch. Bangladeshi owner Nasirul Alam Porag is something of a fanatic when it comes to sourdough, and his unbleached flour loafs have a deliciously aerated, chewy texture. Be sure to pick up a slice of sinfully dense drizzle cake after tucking into a Turkish eggs (B300), a Cubano (B350), or butter croissant (B100). The bakery also serves coffee and cold-pressed juice, which you can enjoy roadside from a scattering of terrace seats. 245/12 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-101-1427

Located on Sukhumvit, between Phrom Phong and Thonglor, Bartels has people queuing up with giddy delight for fresh-baked sourdough bread. The bakery has all the Nordic feels with its airy lounge and minimalist interiors. Stop by for sourdough loaves (B250), baguettes (B100), and breakfast rolls (B50), and stay for cafe favorites like the Blue Heaven, a smoothie bowl with blue spirulina, banana, pineapple, and mango (B250). Hungry for more? Heartier bites include the sweet ham and brie baguette sandwich (B200) and the open-faced Pestocado, packed with pesto, avocado, cucumber, tomato, kalamata olives, and balsamic reduction (B250). 760/1 Sukhumvit Rd., 061-745-2121

Known for its mile-long lists of seafood, charcuterie, and French desserts, El Mercado gives Phrom Phong residents the casual hangout spot it needed with its Soi 35 branch, shaded front patio and happy hours included. The grocer has all your artisanal needs covered, from oils and vinegars to cured meats. If you’re eating in, you can have everything from bacon quiche (B149) to ever-changing set menus (three courses, from B299). Want wine? The shop imports some of its favorite labels and works with Wine Garage to bring in some delicious bottles, most for B1,000 or less. M Tower, 15/8 Sukhumvit Soi 35, 02-011-1712

1 Jan ’21 – 28 Feb ’22

TBT-Artur-BK#804.indd 1

26/4/2564 BE 12:57

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, APRIL 30, 2021

TABLE TALK

Blue by Alain Ducasse The Gardennia Brainwake

Room Unit L101, 1/F, IconLuxe, IconSiam, 299 Charoen Nakhon Rd., Bangkok, Thailand, 02-005-9412. Open Thu-Mon 12-9pm.

Simple

Breakfast Story

Brainwake

It’s all about locally-sourced seasonal produce that is traceable and sustainable—and, of course, organic whenever possible—at this local favorite cafe, restaurant, and grocery store. The friendly staff are always on hand to chat about their products’ origins, from the brown rice to the pure coconut oil. If you’re eating in, go for one of the preservativefree cold pressed juices, like their refreshing lemon, beetroot and pineapple, to pair with hearty bites from an extensive menu that ranges from tropical acai bowls (B280) to a full English breakfast (B300) and eggplant shakshuka (B300). 235/5 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-662-2510

American breakfast dreams come true at this intimate all-day-dining spot perched above craft beer bar Hair of the Dog. Let the tantalizing scents from the open kitchen guide you through their extensive line-up of morning classics, like a full stack of buttery pancakes drenched with maple syrup (B250); three egg omelets (B240); breakfast wraps loaded with sausage, bacon, country potatoes, cheddar, and eggs (B200); and bottomless American drip coffee—all of which are available until late. You can even get poutine (B220), the classic Canadian treat. 2/F, Hair of the Dog, 593/27 Sukhumvit Rd. (Soi Villa), 02-258-1461

If you’re not drawn to the leafy, Daikanyama-worthy facade of this palatial, two-story diner, you will be by the display of French pastries and breads inside. Head upstairs to pick a book from their library shelves and park up for the afternoon with a good latte, or enjoy the fact that downstairs boasts a properly stocked bar. The food is affordable, and while it may sound like a hodgepodge, it’s a nice mix of everything: Thai one-dish classics, Western breakfast staples, Japanese curry rice, spaghetti, burgers, and sandwiches. 27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-005-0026

Legendary French Chef Alain Ducasse’s first venture in Thailand is a welcome addition to Bangkok’s fast-growing fine dining scene. Expect flavorful seasonal dishes that marry local flavor preferences and ingredients with French technique, which helped to gain the restaurant one Michelin star. The a la carte menu here has to be one of the most exuberant in town, with the likes of gold caviar and blinis, poached lobster, setting the tone. The seven-course tasting menu changes regularly and currently includes premium products such as wagyu beef, caviar and foie gras.

Exclusively for Citi Credit Card members Come 4 pay 3 when ordering all Blue Experience Course (Blackout date : 12 Aug ’21, excluding Citi Grab, Citi Makro, Citi Lazada, and cannot apply for special menu, advance reservation is required and subject to availability) 1 Jan – 31 Aug ’21

TBT-Blue by Alain Ducasse-BK#804.indd 1

26/4/2564 BE 12:57

feature | sweet escape

The Honey Hive Decked out in beehive-like interiors, Honeyful Cafe on Sukhumvit Soi 24 is putting honey in a new light for Bangkok residents. Nuttawan “Yui” Supapong explains how curiosity led her to open the sweet, honey-centric spot, and how it might change your perspective on the humble ingredient. By Alisha Pawa

Nestled down a buzzing Phrom Phong street, Honeyful quietly opened last year amid the area’s abundance of cafes and restaurants. Its reason for being is much more unique than its neighbors’, though: the cafe is all about encouraging us to experiment with the wide world of honey and make it an essential part of our everyday lives. The cafe boasts a beehive-like, hexagon-shaped dome and brims with golden tones like light wood decor and tall windows that let in natural light. The look and feel may form a visual link to the honey-based treats the cafe serves, but the dedication to honey goes beyond decor. Honeyful founder Nuttawan “Yui” Supapong has always been a curious soul. With a background in chemical engineering, as well as culinary school training, Yui became fascinated with honey’s chemical compounds and began to research how it’s harvested. Eventually, she left her 9-to-5 job in the financial industry to dive deep into the honey production process. “I visited a lot of farms [in Thailand and abroad] to research honey. Studying it only triggered more questions,” says Yui. Scientific wonder was just the beginning. Yui questioned why Bangkok’s F&B scene had overlooked honey. “We have specialty coffee spots and ramen-dedicated places,” she notes, but no places, apart from cocktail bar Asia Today, had devoted themselves to the intricacies of honey. After two years of research and sourcing honey from from ethical beekeepers around the world—Chiang Rai, Australia, the United States, Canada, Japan—Yui righted that perceived wrong last year when she opened Honeyful. Creating a honey-tasting menu was one of the first things she planned to do when the cafe opened, but that was put on hold because of the pandemic and the restrictions placed on cafes like hers to combat it. Yui finally moved forward with her vision this April, however, when her team held their first-ever workshop. “Honeyful Adventures Series 1” gathered honey enthusiasts together for a tasting of four different honeys, highlighting their distinct flavors and aromas.

“The two things we focused on are knowing where the honey has been sourced from and how to use it in a way that enhances the food experience,” she explains. Yui says it’s a common misconception that honey will overpower the fragrance of other ingredients. That is why some people avoid using it in their cooking. But identifying the right honey can transform the culinary experience. “For instance, while you’d think honeylemon is an obvious match, you’d be surprised that not every type of honey pairs with lemon” she says. And, she adds, honey doesn’t have to be expensive to be good. “It just has to be natural and sourced from the farm.” The cafe currently offers Honeyful Remedies, a menu based on her collection of monofloral honey. The Honeyful Honey Manuka (B185) served with almond milk and Manuka latte (B160), which highlights Australian Manuka honey in a drink made with locally sourced coffee and milk, are two of the most popular choices. The tangy, honey-infused yuzu cheesecake (B150) is not to be missed, either. The cafe also sells different types of natural honey with instructions on how to pair them at home. As honey varies year to year depending where it’s been harvested, Yui says she will revamp the menu and products on a seasonal basis. When asked about the future plans, Yui says she hopes to bring honey into more Bangkok homes. “We want to offer more tips on honey pairings via videos, and we want to provide more educational events,” she notes. “When our second collection of honey comes out, we’ll add more to the menu; we haven’t been able to do that yet as the pandemic has restricted us from traveling out of the country to source honey.” Even though Honeyful opened right before the pandemic upended the world last year, Yui feels she’s on the right path with her mission to shine light on honey in Bangkok’s saturated F&B scene. At least, she declares, “we certainly have a better understanding of what our customers enjoy.” “We had a few customers who were not honey eaters. Maybe they had a bad experience with honey or have tried low-quality honey,” she says. “But when they tried the honey here, their perspectives changed. Now, they are regulars.”

the last word | ink master

A top Bangkok tattoo artist talks about tradition, art, and teamwork Gian Luca, or “Luca,” owner of All Day Tattoo, has built his tattoo studio from the ground up. Today, it’s one of the best in the country. Here, he discusses sak yant, the importance of inclusivity in tattooing, and tattooing after Covid-19. By Veerabhatr Sriyananda

hy did you choose Phrom Phong as the location for All Day Tattoo? As soon as I decided to open a tattoo studio, I knew I wanted it to be in Phrom Phong. I’ve always lived around the area, and I knew it had the perfect vibe for what I was trying to build. There’s a lot of leisure and business being done here, and there’s always a buzz. We have so many amazing restaurants and food options within such a small area. A lot of the cool clubs, bars, and nightlife happens around this area too, so once the shoppers and business people go home, there’s still a lot to do and see. And if you’re looking to get a bit of a break from the city, Benjasiri Park is right next to the Emporium. Tell us about your team of tattoo artists. We currently have 12 resident artists and local guest artists who are experts in a range of styles: traditional Thai (sak yant) tattoos and other popular Thai tattoos, geometric and mandala, Japanese, realistic, black and gray, minimal, old school/ traditional, neotraditional, Polynesian, and more. Our team makes us who we are. We have amazing artists and a team of supporting staff who are incredibly passionate about what they do. Most importantly from my point of view is that, apart from being great at what they do, they’re great people. It’s important that the vibe of a tattoo studio is happy and inclusive. The tattoo experience [can] feel intimidating and unfriendly sometimes. Tattooing is a service industry just like any other, and the experience itself is just as important as the end product.

What’s your opinion of modern Thai tattoo culture? Thailand is a particularly interesting case, as they have taken a lot of influence from both the American/Western as well as the Japanese/Eastern tattooing cultures. This has really created an exciting and eclectic range of skills among local artists. In recent years, especially since the 1990s, there has been an increase in tattoo studios opening in Thailand, and it has really become known as one of the tattooing centers of the world. What do you think about sak yant? Do they really make you bulletproof? Sak yant tattoos have a very interesting history. While the explanation you see for different designs is usually “protection” or “lucky,” it’s much more complex than that. Each design has a specific origin and meaning as well as the benefits it’s meant to bestow on the wearer. These things can range from “protection in battle” to “being able to find true love.” In my opinion, belief is an extremely powerful thing. While I find it hard to believe that a bullet could be physically stopped only by the presence of a specific sak yant design, there’s a good chance that if someone believes they are powerful and protected they could feel more confident in their actions and overcome difficulties more easily and achieve more in their life. Any interesting stories about your customers? One that stands out in my mind is a customer that we did a small, minimalist tattoo for last year as his first tattoo. We warned him that this might be his first tattoo but we’re sure it won’t be his last. A couple of months pass and he comes back with an idea for a full sleeve tattoo! How have you adapted to Covid-19 restrictions? We have been ordered to close twice so far for extended periods, which for any self-funded small business is a major challenge to deal with. We don’t have credit or investors to fall back on so we decided that our best chance of surviving was to do what we have always done: do the best work we can for our customers and be the best employers we can be to our staff. The reality is that, being a studio with high standards of English skills and customer service, and Bangkok being the world’s most visited tourist destination, the vast majority of our clients before the borders were closed were tourists. [But] we have so far managed to keep every staff member employed as we feel a sense of responsibility to provide for them and their families. What’s the future for you and All Day Tattoo post-Covid? If you’re not moving forwards, you’re going backwards. We’ve been early adopters of many new techniques and technologies that have come into the tattoo industry. If something allows us to better serve our customers, we want to make sure we’re making the best use of it we can. One of the areas we are working on at the moment is an interesting concept in the digital art space. I can’t reveal too much at the moment, but watch this space.

Sunshine Court

Kannikar Court

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, DECEMBER 18, 2020