BK Magazine 635 April 8, 2016

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it's free! Slippery when wet

BK MAGAZINE NO. 635 FRIDAY, APRIL 8, 2016. www.bkmagazine.com

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ADVERTORIAL

LIFE’S A BEACH

Travel to Thailand’s best seaside destinations without leaving the city thanks to The EM District Beach Airlines.

ALL ABOARD!

HOW TO JOIN Through Apr 27, The EM District brings exotic, tropical beach destinations to the heart of Bangkok thanks to interactive projection mapping technology. Every night from 7-10pm at BTS Phrom Phong, The EM District Beach Airlines lets you transplant yourself into an animated cartoon projected onto the huge walls of The Emporium and Emquartier malls, where you’ll enjoy the beach party of a lifetime at your dream destination. This summer, The EM District transforms itself into a place where locals and tourists alike can escape the chaos of the city and relax at tasty food stalls, carefully curated pop-up shops and edgy bars.

1. Show a receipt from Emporium or Emquartier with a minimum amount of B300.

Save travel time and avoid the high-season crowds by hopping over to The EM District for a beach party filled with food, drinks, live music and fashion booths in a one-stop destination that’s just as tropical as any beach out there.

TRAVELER REVIEWS 2. Choose your dream destination, from Miami to Koh Phangan. “You don’t think it will be a huge deal at first, but to see your face suddenly on the wall is quite an exciting and funny feeling. I’ve never been to any of these beaches before, but this is close enough!”

“It was funny to see myself as that cartoon. I wish I had muscles that big! If my friends are ever passing by here, I’ll definitely remind them to stop by.” Earth, 26

Ae, 31 “I think people of all ages can enjoy this activity, whether you come as a group of friends or as a family. I’ve seen some families come and they fill up the whole plane. It’s quite funny!”

“There’s really nothing like this in other malls. I think it’s very creative. Even if it’s not my face on there, I would stop and watch because it’s very entertaining and unique.”

Kluay, 26

Melissa, 28

3. Get your photo taken at the check-in booth and receive your boarding pass.

4. See yourself board the plane and have an unforgettable journey!

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page 3 06 cover story

Cultural Songkran

04 upfront

14 fashion

Radio Princess

Retro Madness 16 shopping

16 bites

Crate Digging

Claw Back

18 bites

23 BK Now

Cool Licks

Wet, Wet, Wet

Who's in charge? Managing Director Andrew Hiransomboon Editor in Chief / Product Director Grégoire Glachant Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Features Associate Monruedee Jansuttipan Senior Staff Writers Vasachol Quadri, Lily Kittisrikangwan Staff Writers Natcha Sanguankiattichai, Bonnie Sananvatananont Branded Content Associate Sureepak Janyapat Content Coordinator Nontaya Kumyat Junior Writer Kankanid Mitrpakdee Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dith Chang Deputy Art Director Panita Thiraphapong Graphic Designers Chantich Kongchanmitkul, Peeraya Sirathanisa Junior Graphic Designers Wariya Whangwaewklang, Parida Ritthiron

Where to find us!

The Asia City Media Group

Production Assistant Saranya Chawanrattanasakul Content Designer Saranya Laowtrakul

Administrator Yaovaluck Srisermsri Accountant Manita Bangmoung

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Sales Manager Tipkritta Chiraporncharas, Orajira Sukkasem Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Onwara Sittirug, Waranuch Thaneerat, Nattaya Bovornsettanon, Orakarn Laohakanjanasiri, Amarit Jinaya Junior Sales Associates Kittiya Darachai

Contributor Kathy MacLeod

Marketing Executive Plaifon Chienvichai IT Manager Takrit Jitjaroen Distribution Manager Suda Angsuputiphant

Intern Joseph Lam Cover by Panita Thiraphapong

Group Directors Chief Executive Officer Gretchen Worth gworth@asia-city.co.th Group Digital Director Greg Duncan duncann@asia-city.com.sg

Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Assistant Finance Manager Anchalee Limkhamduang Senior Accountant Maneeya Kanthongdang

Bangkok Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower 100 North Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 Email: bkmagazine@asia-city.co.th

Singapore Asia City Publishing Pte. Ltd. Block 211 Henderson Rd. #07-02 Henderson Industrial Park Singapore 159552 Tel: 65-6323-2512 Fax: 65-6323-2779 Email: contact@asia-city.com.sg

What We’ve Learned

A checklist of BK Magazine’s most important discoveries this week. Bangkok cops love Ethiopian food. Bangkok’s only Ethiopian restaurant sits down an alley off Sukhumvit Soi 3 that looks like it was designed for drug deals and turns out some of the most delicious plates of food B250 can buy you. It’s also packed on a Saturday night with on-duty police officers. We’ve yet to determine if it’s because of the food or the massive TV showing Premier League football. New menus are here. And they’re insane. Bangkok’s most toffee-nosed spots for posh grub have started rolling out their latest seasonal menus—and there’s much to get excited about. Chow down on a once-Scottish breed of cow that now resides in Northern Japan and enjoys regular shiatsu at J’aime; deep-fried oysters masquerading as lumps of coal at House on Sathorn; or pigeon breast and fillet of foie gras all wrapped up into an obscene bacon-clad sausage at Robuchon. Delicious. CityCity Gallery made Bangkok care about art. For a night. After an exhibition for French water fizzifier Perrier and another for a German sunglasses brand, CityCity Gallery this week decided to exhibit some art. Korakrit Arunanondchai headlined Apr 3’s extravaganza of drone footage, mild crocodile abuse and rap music, alongside show-stealing Californian performance artist boychild. If you weren’t one of the several hundred packed into the two performances, you missed out. Someone in Bangkok should start making salted egg lava macarons. Our instantly viral April Fools’ joke saying that Dean & DeLuca now serves salted egg lava macarons provided vital market research for this city’s entrepreneurial bakers. This is one treat that the population of Bangkok wants and wants badly. UNCLE Mk. 2 feels kinda like a frat house. Along with Rocket and Lady Brett, Sapporot Group’s UNCLE has spawned another branch at Thonglor’s 72 Courtyard. But this one’s less dark-cornered speakeasy, more rowdy upstairs function room, all mid-‘00s r’n’b and sugary cocktails. So far, so Thonglor. Good thing drinks are only B195 a pop—making it the perfect pre-party spot for neighboring Beam. Millennium Hilton’s brunch will charge you extra for water. Really. And not just for the fizzy stuff, either.

BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 51 times a year, every Friday of each month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2015 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250

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@bkmagazine BK Magazine Friday, April 8, 2016

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ood time not that from hot sert cafe e think’s

ly sure if ssociated hange its are’s roof for “c’est

upfront HOT OR NOT

Hot: Asia’s Best Bars

Not: Asia’s Best Bars

Some hits and misses in the six Bangkok bars which made the Asia’s 50 Best list. We’ll let you judge if you want to knock back craft cocktails with young cool hipsters at Teens of Thailand, or stand around in Maggie Choo’s ‘cos all the seats are permanently booked out by middle-age tourists in bad trousers.

INTERVIEW

Hot: Gutlessness

Not: Domestic violence

Days before a bodybuilder was in the news for imprisoning and beating his girlfriend, so was ad agency Leo Burnett for thinking it was OK to trivialize domestic worker abuse. Their excuse—that Thai drama has a rich history of demeaning maids so it’s totally cool—was about as convincing as a wealthy hit-and-run suspect’s toxicology report. Not that most of us seem to care when confronted with domestic violence, as this video made painfully clear: youtu.be/PYGbasskLTo.

Hot: Ice cream

Not: Salted egg lava

It’s almost 40 degrees out there. This is not a good time to eat molten egg yolk from hot croissants—not that there’s ever a good time to eat molten egg yolk from hot croissants. Save yourself the trip to a Ladprao dessert cafe and pick up an ice cream instead. Find out which we think’s best on page 18.

Hot: Ce La Vi

Not: Ku De Ta

It’s official: after several years of no one being really sure if Ku De Ta Bangkok is or has ever been in any way associated with the original club in Bali, it has been forced to change its name. You can now find the club on Sathorn Square’s roof filed under Ce La Vi, which is KDT-speak for “c’est la vie,” which in turn is French for “that’s life.”

Thailand’s self-proclaimed “Princess of Radio,” the flamboyant Thanachapan Buranacheewawilai aka DJ Bookko, 31, has been the talk of the city since her revealing fashion shoot in Priew magazine. The photos followed a public backlash against people who carry “child angel” (luk thep) dolls, with DJ Bookko at its center. Recently, American news network CNN even spent a day following her around to see how she spends her time with Wansai, the doll which she looks after almost like a real child. With DJ Bookko’s new film, 11-12-13 Ruk Gun Ja Tai, in theaters now, we caught up with her to see if public opinion has had any effect on her relationship with Wansai. How did you and Wansai land on CNN? Actually a lot of international media contacted me to be featured on their channels—from France, the UK, Italy, including CNN—but I was concerned about being criticized for fame-seeking. I decided I wanted to speak out about this issue only once and so picked CNN as it broadcasts internationally. They followed me around to observe how I live my life with Wansai. How did you come to have the doll? I believe everyone has their own precious things which they cling on to. Why do I need to carry an oldschool kuman thong doll [traditional doll possessed with a child’s spirit] or nang kwak doll [in which the female spirit is believed to bring good fortune] while walking around Siam Paragon? Because I just want to find the right thing that I can carry everywhere and child angel dolls match my style. I have been with Wansai for over a year now.

Does he really make your life happier? I don’t want to say this in public, but I just feel good to have him around. He may have helped me to get work, but it’s more about me. I work 24/7 doing at least 4-5 jobs every day. I wouldn’t be this busy if I didn’t do quality work and had not proved my talent. How has your life with Wansai changed following the public backlash? I don’t bring him out with me as much as I used to because I don’t want people saying that I just want to be the center of attention. But we still live together, sleep together, eat together, and I dress him up just as always. He’s part of my family, but now is mostly under the care of my mother. We recently brought him on a family holiday to Japan, but I didn’t book him his own seat; I would rather put him in a bag as I have respect for others’ opinions—I never demand other people to treat him the way I do.

Do you feel any of the public criticism has gone too far? I have been criticized, my family has been criticized, and people have even blamed me for making Thailand an international laughing stock. But there are many things in Thailand that make other countries laugh; not just this issue. Anyway, I don’t care about it. I passed through so many hardships when I was young. My family has had to struggle since my dad died. At one point we only had B30 left in the house and our electricity was cut off for a year. I have tried so hard to get into the entertainment industry and make my dream come true. Nothing can hurt me now. What do you hope to achieve next? I believe that we all need to advance ourselves. My goal is to do better every year. I recently had the oncein-a-lifetime opportunity to do a sexy photoshoot following some plastic surgery and huge weight loss. I grew up with beauty shows like The Swan and have always dreamed about doing a TV show about plastic surgery—but that’s only a rough plan. Interview by Monruedee Jansuttipan

THAT’S WHAT SHE SAID

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by Kathy MacLeod kathymacleod.blogspot.com

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cover story

Fighting with Tradition While Silom and Khao San have become known for their all-out water wars, there is an alternative side to celebrating Songkran in Bangkok. Here’s what you need to know. By Lily Kittisrikangwan

By the River The New Year is always a good excuse to visit the riverside. This Apr 13-15 sees the return of the Water Festival, organized by Thai Beverage in collaboration with Tourism Authority of Thailand, which will take place across seven riverside venues along the Chao Phraya River from 9am-4pm. Making your river exploration more convenient, there will be free shuttle boat services between each pier throughout the three days. You can make merit in the morning, shop, eat and chill by the river in the day, and enjoy the concerts and festivities in the evening. It’ll be busy, but it’s a great opportunity to get up early and visit the four participating riverside temples.

Daytime free shuttle boat services will run from 9am-6pm, with a boat departing every 30 minutes between Asiatique-SathornYodpiman River Walk and another every 15 minutes from Yodpiman through Tha Tien (Wat Pho), Tha Maharaj, Wat Arun, Wat Kalaya and Wat Prayurawongsawasa Worawihan. An evening route will run every 20 minutes from 4pm through midnight between Asiatique-Sathorn-Tha Maharaj. Do take care, though, as the boats can get very crowded.

PHRA NAKHON HIGHLIGHTS Checking out the organized traditional activities and festivalthemed workshops at the open-air Tha Maharaj Community Mall (Maharaj Rd.), which has become a recent star of the area thanks to new openings like Peppina, Gram and Editions bookstore, a chill rooftop grill bar, regular pop-up markets, food trucks and winter outdoor screenings. Offering alms at the birthplace of Thai massage, Wat Pho (2 Sanam Chai Rd.), which will operate during the festival too (although we’d expect a long queue). You’ve likely already paid your respects to Phra Buddhasaiyat (the third largest reclining Buddha in the world), but throughout the festival, you can also offer alms here, too.

Water Festival 2015

Walking Rattanakosin Island's longest riverside terrace at the neo-classical Thai heritage mall Yodpiman River Walk (Soi Tha Klang). Do make sure you visit Pak Khlong Talad flower market, too, now that vendors have managed to extend the deadline for eviction until the end of June, after which they will permanently relocate to either the Interior Ministry market, Thai Farmers Promotion market or Yodpiman. Dodging the tourists and browsing young designer wares at Asiatique the Riverfront (2194 Charoen Krung Rd.). This Songkran will also see massive live concerts by local artists every night from Apr 13-15. Wat Pho

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Tha Maharaj

BK Magazine Friday, April 8, 2016

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cover story Nattaphon Phanpongsanon

Around the Old Town In addition to the mean streets of Silom and Khao San, the Tourism Authority of Thailand is making sure there are more to the celebrations this year than just water fights. Here’s what’s happening from Apr 10-15 around the Old Town.

THE SONGKRAN PARADE The series of events starts with a grand parade which traces the history of Songkran back to the period of King Rama III, through to the legend of the seven Nang Songkrans and the festival’s nationwide explosion during the reign of King Rama V. There will be p e r f o r m a n ce s t a g e s i n f ro n t o f L a n Plubplamahajedsadabodin and in front of the Democracy Monument.

Wat Arunratchawararam

When: Apr 10 (3pm-6pm)

Wat Prayurawongsawasa

Wat Kalayanamitra

Where: The parade runs from Lan Plubplamahajedsadabodin through Ratchadamnoen Klang, Ratchadamnoen Nai, Na Phra Lan passing the grand palace, Maharaj Road and finishing at Suan Nakaraphirom.

SONGKRAN AT BANG LAMPHU Home to hip new restaurants and bars (Wing ‘N Thing, Rong Lao), the area around Phra Athit is also one of the places you can count on for local festivities on special days, night markets and even music and theater events. In addition to the usual water fights on Phra Athit Road, the Phra Nakhon district office is bringing Phra Buddha Banglamphu from Wat Bowon to Suan Santi Chaiprakarn for visitors to bathe the Buddha image in the morning for luck and prosperity for the rest of the year, as well as alms-offering in the morning and Thai instrumental performances throughout the day. When: Apr 13

www.tourism.go.th

Where: Suan Santichai Prakarn, Phra Athit Rd.

Traditional sand pagoda-making

Merit-making

THONBURI HIGHLIGHTS Crossing over the river and paying your respects to Luang Por Rung Arun as well as bathing 13 other Buddha images from temples around the Bangkok Yai area. Other activities include: local markets, sand pagoda-making and the tradition of carrying sand into the temple. Get back to the Phra Nakhon side by sunset to check the nighttime views of Wat Arunratchawararam (158 Wang Doem Rd.) Visiting Wat Kalayanamitr Woramahawiharn (371 Soi Arun Amarin 6) and bathing the temple’s Luang Por To (Sum Por Kong). There’s also sand pagoda-making, Thai garland-making, kite-flying, Chinese calligraphy and a quaint market organized by people in the community. This year also sees the first Bike by the River event opened for 150 cycling enthusiasts per day. Sign up now at goo.gl/ikK5ms. Paying respect to Luang Por Buddhanak and Phra Nak Prok. The local festivities around here w i l l b e q u i t e s i m i l a r t o Wa t P ray u rawo n g s awa s Wo rav i h a r n ( 1 S o i A r u n Amarin 4), but here you can actually dig under the marble pagoda.

SONGKRAN AT WAT PHO

SONGKRAN AT WISUTKASAT

Prior to the main events between Apr 13-15, there will also be a model talad boran (oldschool market), with rare Royal court performances ( lakorn nok , hoon luang puppetry) to be held at Wat Pho, which is great for those who don’t want to fight with the crowds on the real day.

What: While Wisutkasat is known for its many restaurants (that are overwhelmingly vegetarian) and small locally run hostels, it’s had a long history in celebrating the Thai New Year. Said to be the model of the “Dhevi Songkran,” the annual Songkran beauty pageant organized by the Wisutkasat community has been held continuously since 1935.

When: Apr 10-12 (10:30am-8:30pm) Where: Wat Phra Chetuphon Wimonmangklaram Ratchaworawiharn, 2 Sanam Chai Rd., 02-226-0335

When: Apr 13 Where: Wisutkasat Rd. (Bang Khun Phrom intersection), under the Rama 8 Bridge

Top boutique hotels for an Old Town staycation:

The Siam

8

Sala Rattanakosin

1. Once Again Hostel (22 Soi Samran Rat. 092-620-5445. onceagainhostel.com)

5. Villa Phra Sumen (457 Phra Sumen Rd. 080-085-0085. villaphrasumen.com)

2. Old Capital Bike Inn (607 Phra Sumen Rd., 02-629-1787. oldcapitalbkk.com)

6. Riva Surya (23 Phra Arthit Rd., 02-633-5000. snhcollection.com/rivasurya)

3. Loy La Long Hotel (1620/2 Songwat Rd., 02-639-1390. loylalong.com)

7. Sala Rattanakosin (39 Soi Tha-Tien, Maharat Rd., 02-622-1388. salarattanakosin.com)

4. Phra Nakorn Norn Len (46 Thewet Soi1 Krungkasem Rd. 02-628-8188. phranakorn-nornlen.com)

8. Praya Palazzo (757/1 Somdej Prapinklao Soi 2, 02-8832998. prayapalazzo.com) 9. The Siam (Khao Rd., 02-206-6999. thesiamhotel.com)

BK Magazine Friday, April 8, 2016

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ADVERTISEMENT

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escapes ESCAPE ROUTES By Monruedee Jansuttipan

RATCHABURI

Home Spun Next time you visit Ratchaburi, book a room at the new Navela Hotel & Banquets (032206-599, www.fb.com/NavelaHotel), where vintage touches like cane furniture meet with crisp, contemporary decor. It’ll set you back just B990 for superior, B1,300 for superior with balcony on weekdays or B1,500 on weekends, and for that price you get no shortage of style. Design gimmicks play on the area’s indigenous craft goods, like ong mangkorn (giant water jars) and homespun patterns, while balconies look out on uninterrupted views.

KRABI

Sandy Sip Heading to Krabi this summer? Dusit Thani Krabi Beach Resorts (075-628000, www.dusitthanikrabi.com) has recently sexed up its beachfront with the newly opened Juice Box, a health-centric juice bar, and Sand Bar which sits right beside the beach and offers snacks and cocktails from just B150. Juices are even cheaper at B90. Room rates start B6,800 in summer.

HOTELS

Great Escape Sansiri’s Escape Hotels (www.escape-hotel.com) have rolled out some great deals at both their Khao Yai and Hua Hin venues. On weekdays (Sun-Thu), book two Deluxe Poolside rooms at Escape Hua Hin to get 55-percent discount off the sticker price of B3,350 net per night per room—two rooms, then, will cost you B6,700 net per night instead of B12,181. At Escape Khao Yai, the starting rate is a little higher at B4,900 net per night for a Sunken Heated Pool Villa. That means two rooms will cost you B9,800 per night instead of almost B18,000. Head there now, because the hotel has some cool farmto-table style dinners happening over the summer period, with dishes like Australian ribeye served with organic vegetables. These deals only apply when you book two rooms, mind, so start recruiting your friends!

AIRLINES

Indo-china Bangkok Airways’ (1771, www.bangkokair.com) new flights to Da Nang might be the cheapest way to get from Bangkok to the colonial Vietnamese coastal city. As of May 25, round-trips will start at B5,470, with four flights running per week on Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays. Around the same time, Thai AirAsia (www.airasia.com) will also launch daily flights between Bangkok and Shantou, China. Part of Guangdong province, the city is regularly visited for religious pilgrimages to famous shrines like the Tiger God, Ruby Goddess and Tai Hong Kong, the birthplace shrine of Thailand’s leading charity Poh Teck Tung Foundation. Rates start at B4,380 for round trip as of May 27.

Get the best of Bangkok delivered straight to your inbox every day with the new BK Daily newsletter. www.bkmagazine.com/newsletters Have some cool rooms? Email your news and promotions to travel@asia-city.co.th

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BK Magazine Friday, April 8, 2016

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avenue

NEW SHOP

Mad About Vintage The vintage enthusiasts behind popup market staple Cheap and Cheerful have brought a dose of Charoenkrung hipster chic to Ladprao. Method to My Madness has grown from a vintage store to a bar and has plans for more to come. Ferns hang from the roof over an outdoor bar, familiar-face DJs spin Britpop/rock and guests drink Singha beer. Ladies can hunt out ‘70s floral dresses on the second floor as their guy digs around downstairs for deadstock denim jackets which the owner carries back from where he traveled to. The space is open for events, too, with the occasional film screening and live band dropping by—expect to see some popup markets, music theme parties and talks in the future. Ladphrao Rd., 085-356-3447. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-1am. MRT Phahol Yothin (Exit 2). bit.ly/1MygDhC

APP

TATTOO

SPORT

Instant Beauty

New Ink

Free Jumping

There’s a free new app which promises to deliver Bangkok’s best beauty, fitness and pampering experiences to your door. Fabbrigade lets you book makeup, hair and nail appointments, yoga and Pilates classes, and spa and massage sessions with talents drawn from Bangkok’s leading studios (their makeup artists come from the International Makeup Center and hair people from The Lounge hair salon). Once the app has connected with your Facebook account, you can choose from packages like Glambrigade makeup (from B2,450) and hair (from B1,450) or Ombigade Yoga and Pilates (B1,650), set your preferred date and time, then pay through credit card. Spabrigade massage will be available in May and the Nalbrigade nail service will follow in June. The app is compatible with both iOS and Android. www.fabbrigade.com

After a year in Pan Road, the tattoo studio Six Fathoms Deep has now moved to a new home next to Saphan Thaksin BTS station. The newly named Common Ground Tattoo takes over an old Chinese shop-house and turns it into a vividly colored room covered in artwork created by tattooists from around the world, all finished off with some vintage furniture. Here you can also expect some of the best custom tattoo work in the city, carried out by resident artists as well as exclusive visiting tattooists. The special guests will be announced through their Facebook (www.fb.com/common.ground.tattoo.999) and Instagram (IG: common.ground.tattoo). 300 Rimklongsatorn Rd. www.fb.com/common.ground.tattoo.999

Bangkok’s newest trampoline park has traveled all the way from Singapore to Phra Khanong, joining the gym community at Training Ground. Amped Bangkok is the brand’s fifth branch in Asia, offering a 10,000-sq-foot playground split between a public zone and three private rooms for group sessions or private events. Compared to the city’s other huge arenas, this mid-size offering goes for a friendlier atmosphere with trained staff who will teach you the basics free of charge. The prices are comparatively cheaper, too, starting from B240/hr on Monday up to B290/hr on weekend, while the party rooms start from B4,200-B4,700/hr with a maximum of 10 people. You can also connect all three rooms for parties of up to 30 people—advanced booking required. Chavanich Building, 36/3 Sukhumvit Soi 69, 02-136-7858. BTS Phra Kanong www.fb.com/ampedthailand

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avenue

Hidden Tracks Records

SHOPPING

Spinning Around To mark World Record Store day on Apr 16, here are the best places to dig for new and used vinyl records in Bangkok. By BK Editorial

8 Musique

Garage Records

1979 Vinyl and Unknown Fatblack Records Hidden Tracks Records Tonchabab Record Shop This popular store offers up everything: new From Terminal 21 to Thonglor to Samut Prakan, This family-run affair has two branches which are Pleasures Situated on the top floor of Thonglor’s Black Amber building, this tiny record store-slash-live venue specializes in Brit-rock, from The Beatles right through to the Libertines. The garden-like, tiny balcony regularly heaves with gigs from up-and-coming rockers, too.

releases from indie/pop bands like Disclosure and The 1975 to classics from The Velvet Underground and The Flaming Lips as well as Thai '90s artists like Proud and See-Tao-Ter. They also stock a number of turntables, both for beginners and for pros. Good for: Mainstream rock and pop.

Good for: Brit-pop/rock. There’s also a pretty eclectic world music corner.

Crystal Design Center, Praditmanutham Rd., 081-3403030. www.fb.com/Fatblackrecordbkk

4/F, Black Amber Building (behind Kiatnakin Bank), Sukhumvit Soi 55, between Thonglor Soi 5-7. BTS Thonglor. www.fb.com/1979vinyl

Garage Records

8 Musique Stocks both CDs and vinyl, secondhand and new, including collectible box sets from the likes of The Smiths and The Beatles. The vinyl side focuses on indie-rock albums from hot new international bands plus selected local artists. Secondhand from B500 and new from B800. Good for: Oft-overlooked reissues (Francoise Hardy, Tom Waits) and local releases from Plastic Section and Cyndi Seui. Ei8ht Thonglor, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-7138366. BTS Thong Lo. on.fb.me/13Qfoi6

Audio Minute Tucked in the eaves of golf-centric Thaniya Plaza, this store can be hard to get into (be sure to call ahead), but inside you’ll find a solid selection of jazz and classic rock, plus some cool original Thai pressings and endless copies of ‘80s fodder like Boz Scaggs and Hall and Oates. Prices from B100. Good for: Hidden in the mountains of MOR you’ll dig out some esoteric jazz and alt-pop gems. 4/F, Thaniya Plaza, Silom Rd., 093-328-5998. BTS Sala Daeng

Bryter Layter Named after a classic album from ‘60s folk singer Nick Drake, this hidden-away store is owned by the same people as hip vintage store The Trapeze Swingers on Phra Arthit. Crate-diggers will find old vinyl, mostly jazz, blues and soul, with names like Coltrane and Coleman figuring prominently, as well as an interesting selection of old books. Good for: Jazz and blues, from as little as B100. Arun Amarin Rd., 086-332-1045. www.fb.com/ BryterLayterCafe

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NEW!

One of Bangkok’s most reliable online vinyl purveyors expanded to a proper shop last year. The tiny space is packed with regularly restocked rare finds centering on ‘80s-‘90s alternative rock, including both used and new stock shipped from Japan, the UK and Germany. The space feels kind of like a cafe, too, making it easy to sit and browse. Prices go from B300-400 up to over B4,000.

this record store keeps moving further from the city center. Thankfully, you can still order online— and the selection’s still very impressive, spanning all the currently hyped electro, indie-pop, rock and r ‘n’ b acts, plus some welcome reissues. They also stock some portable players from Crosley and Numark. Good for: Contemporary cult movie soundtracks, from Drive to Blue Valentine. 8/209 Supalai Ville, Soi Sridan 3, Srinakarin Road, 085-970-0076. www.fb.com/hiddentracksrecords

REC.

NEW!

This Ladphrao has been on the move again. Starting out as a small corner inside a coffee shop before expanding to a full room next to MRT Phahon Yothin, REC. has now found new digs inside an old shop-house. The cozier surrounds come with coffee and food, too.

Good for: Mostly ‘80s-‘90s icons—think The Cure, Bjork and Sonic Youth.

Good for: Indie-pop from now (Real Estate, Warpaint) and yesteryear (The Smiths).

Lad Phrao Soi 8 (Yeak 9), 083-839-2016. www.fb. com/garagerecordsshop

Ladphrao Rd., 085-366-9116. www.fb.com/REC.vinyl. record

Hall of Fame Records

The Reco Room

Here you’ll find both secondhand and new vinyl from local and international artists. There’s a big focus on the classics, from American metal band Megadeth through to Jimi Hendrix, Bee Gees and The Beatles. Secondhand turntables from Pioneer are also available from B8,000.

With its bare brick, raw wood and cement, this stylishly turned out store looks a lot like a cafe. The funk and jazz-focused vinyl collection features plenty of Miles Davis, Marvin Gaye and Gil ScottHeron. As for audio set-ups, you won’t find any faux-vintage Crosley players here; this stuff’s the real deal. We dig the old-school amplifiers, though these don’t come cheap.

Good for: Prog-rock 2/F, Thanya Shopping Park, Srinakarin Rd., 081-8449709. www.hofrecord.lnwshop.com

Heaven & Hell Record Shop This longstanding stall in section 22 of Chatuchak has serviced the needs of Bangkok’s vinyl-loving metal-heads for some 15 years. There are also plenty of CDs, cassettes, T-shirts and, well, more soothing sounds on offer, too. Good for: Metal, drone Chatuchak Market, Section 22 Soi 7, 081-330-0307 and 089-132-3474. www.fb.com/Heaven.Hell. Record.Shop

Good for: Blue Note Records reissues Ekamai Mall, 3 Ekkamai Soi 10, 085-322-5403. ow.ly/KXYEc

Record Hunter A very wide range of secondhand vinyl covering everything from pop, rock, jazz and blues to heavy metal, thrash and reggae, with an emphasis on rare and limited items. Good for: Japanese pressings of your favorite rock records. 4/F, Fashion Mall, Phaya Thai Rd., 089-818-3045 and 089-022-7474. BTS Victory Monument. www.fb.com/ Recordhuntershop

a goldmine for serious crate-diggers, spanning a wide array of genres from all over the world. Expect rare world music finds, from luk thung to Diana Ross and The Carpenters, both new and old. Good for: ‘60s, ‘70s and ‘80s hits, plus old-school luk thung. 10 Boonsiri Rd., Phra Nakhon, 081-695-2785 3/F, Seacon Square, Srinakarin Rd., 081-486-7528. ow.ly/vUULd

Vinyl Die Hards

NEW!

This is run by the kid of the owner of Bangkok's now-closed vinyl institution PS Audio, which ran for over 40 years. The large store’s black and red shelves are piled with records priced from as low as B100 for used titles into the thousands for new and reissued LPs. Good for: Classic names like Nat King Cole, The Beatles and David Bowie, plus plenty of newer artists. Sri Nakarin Soi 44, 02-346-4547. www.vinyldiehards. com

Vinyllica Hidden among the IT shops of Fortune Town, you’ll find a number of record stores. The biggest, and best, is Vinyllica. Run by a rather taciturn collector-turned-seller for almost a decade now, this 40-meter space is packed with (mostly) secondhand goodies, from golden oldies to classic rock to esoteric '90s offerings. Good for: Hair rock, post-punk and more obscure Krautrock (prices start at under B100) 3/F, Fortune Town, 1 Ratchadaphisek Road, 02-6410101. MRT Rama 9. vinyllica@windowslive.com

Zudrangma Records Owned by globe-trotting DJ Maft Sai, Zudrangma has been credited with making mo lam (Thai country grooves) cool again. Aside from their reissues of forgotten mo lam and luk thung artists, they also offer up world music gems, spanning Ethiopian pop to Philly soul, as well as special compilations from the team. Good for: Wonderful represses from the likes of Soundway Records and Awesome Tapes from Africa. 7/1, Sukhumvit Soi 51, 088-891-1314. BTS Thong Lo. www.fb.com/zudrangmarecordsthailand

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bites & blends RESTAURANT

Something Fishy After a two-month hiatus, New Englandstyle seafood king Crab and Claw’s Siam Paragon branch is back up and running with the same focus on sustainable produce. Chef Colin Stevens has also introduced a few sumptuous new dishes, including rare wild Alaskan white king salmon (B780) served with confit cherry tomatoes and squid ink hollandaise, and char-grilled Spanish octopus tentacle (B650) served with roast garlic and chorizo-based sauce. Come for lunch to enjoy other signatures like oysters Rockefeller (B420), uni-ara fettuccine (B450), spicy lobster linguine (B950) and, of course, the yummy lobster roll (B950 with one complimentary side dish). G/F, Siam Paragon, 991 Rama 1 Rd., 061-912-3145. BTS Siam

NEW MENU

RESTAURANT

Loving It

Sixth Sense

Best of the Best

Sathorn’s French fine-dining hangout, J’aime, has updated its dishes. Head chef Amerigo Sesti’s new menu features local gac fruit served alongside foie gras royale and almonds (B790) as well as fine imported ingredients like Gillardeau oyster with leek Vichyssoise and seaweed butter toast (B260) and Kamui beef (Japanese angus that’s raised the same way as Kobe beef, B2,370) served with confit potato, beef cheek, eryngii mushrooms and parsley emulsion. We also recommend the frothy cream of frog’s legs with wild mushrooms and asparagus soup (B390) and pan-seared scallop served with pork fatwrapped truffle ravioli, mache puree and apple foam (B2,190). U Sathorn Bangkok, 105, 105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli, Sathorn Rd., 02-119-4899

The latest addition to this city’s sushi scene offers a compact omakase-only experience to just six diners per night—which means there’s already a two-month wait to get in. Tucked on the mezzanine floor above Karatama Robatayaki, Tama Sushi is helmed by chef Seiji Sudo, previously head chef of the Bangkok branch of Ginza Sushi Ichi, who here serves up something far different. Offering what’s known as a “Sushi Sho style” omakase experience, the prettily-plated, delectable courses aren’t limited to a sequence of nigiri but rather switch in items like conch, iwashi roll, grilled mixed rice with hairy crab meat and uni and Seiji’s signature sushi soup. An omakase set of about 20 items sets you back B6,500 per person. M/F, Piman 49, 46/10 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 091-871-0666

The first edition of Asia’ 50 Best Bars launched on Mar 31, and six Bangkok bars made the cut: Vesper (no. 17), Q&A (no. 26), Teens of Thailand (no. 27), Bamboo Bar (no. 34), Maggie Choo’s (no. 41) and Hyde & Seek (no. 50). To celebrate, they’re each offering three special themed cocktails. You can find the full list at bit. ly/235XAPV, but we like the sound of Hyde & Seek’s Sour Cowboy (B380), which mixes Thai herbs with Plantation Old Reserve Rum, Antica Formula, lychee liqueur and kaffir citrus; and Presents (B590) at Bamboo Bar, which sees tamarind-infused Don Julio mixed with Monsoon Valley Dessert Wine, Antica formula, grapefruit soda and chili.

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DRINKS

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bites CLASSICS

ICE CREAM

Best Ice Cream Stores

Top of the Pops Bangkok’s gone Glico crazy. But how does the Japanese intruder compare to all your old favorites? We ate the lot to bring you the definitive best-to-worst ranking. You’re welcome! By BK Staff

GHIGNONI

One of the first gelaterias in Tuscany, its gelato is made fresh daily using the same traditional methods as in Italy in flavors like pistachio, ricotta, pineapple and orange chocolate. From B89 for two flavors. G/F, Emquartier, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-651-8688. BTS Phrom Phong

1. Nestle Milo Chocolate Malt (B18)

2. Wall’s Ovaltine (B10) Take a flavor people like, turn it into ice-cream, put it on a stick, charge nothing.

Milky and not too sweet. Glico, this is who you need to copy.

4. Wall’s Magnum Vanilla and Chocolate (B42) B42 is big-league pricing in this test, and the creamy vanilla ice cream and rich, smooth chocolate shell let you know it.

7. Glico Palitte milk and dark chocolate (B35) Don’t be put off by the dog-dirt-in-a-cup vibes. The chocolate tastes great with the sweet ice cream— until you get to the cardboard cone.

10. Wall’s Cornetto Royale Black Forest (B26) Best cone hands down. The ice cream? A strange washed-down chocolatey taste, especially covered with cream and that overly artificial cherry sauce.

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5. Nestle Eskimo Double Orange Flavor (B10) Whoever came up with disguising orange jelly as a banana is awesome. The world definitely needed this.

8. Glico Seventeen Ice Mint (B20) Toothpaste in the shape of a popsicle. We feel like we just ate chocolate after brushing our teeth.

11. Glico Palitte milk and white chocolate (B35) The too-sweet ice cream gets worse thanks to the white chocolate case.

13. Nestle Extreme Passion (B37) The only extreme passion we feel after eating this is a passion to never to eat another one.

3. Glico Giant cone dark chocolate (B25) Nuts, dark chocolate, vanilla ice cream— everything makes sense here.

6. Glico Giant cone cookie (B25) Glico really need to work on their cone game—it tastes like you left part of the packaging on. It’s also really sweet compared to the dark chocolate version (see above).

FARM TO TABLE CAFE

The owners of this small cafe make their ice cream from fruits and vegetables they grow in Phu Chee Fah, in Northern Thailand, like passion fruit, green soy bean and wheatgrass. Prices from B40. 179 Atsadang Rd., 02-115-2625

ICEDEA

Try the tonkatsu ice cream (breaded, deepfried, melon-flavored ice cream topped with chocolate sauce, B145) and the popular Grass Brownie (B69), topped with green foi thong (an egg yolk dessert). 4/F, BACC, 939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630. BTS National Stadium

9. KitKat (B30) Sticking a KitKat finger into some chocolate ice cream wins zero points for originality. It’s amazing how this ever made it to market.

PINKBERRY

This California-hailing frozen yogurt won BK’s blind taste test for its melt-in-yourmouth softness and refreshing sourness. From B99 for 100g. 2/F, Central Chidlom, 1027 Ploen Chit Rd. BTS Chit Lom

12. Glico Panappe grape (B25) Weird name, weird smell, weird taste, weird everything.

NATTHAPORN

Make your way through the small alleys of the Old Town for this classic, Thai-style coconut ice cream (B25) alongside flavors old (mango, B35) and new (green tea, B40). 94 Soi Phraeng Phutorn, Tanao Rd., 02-221-3954

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bites & blends market + Events

New Venues

INNOVATION IN THE FOOD BUSINESS Food Entrepreneurs Thailand hosts a meetup with speakers and networking opportunities on May 10 at Launchpad. For more information, visit www.meetup.com/foodentrepreneurs Sethiwan Tower, 139 Pan Rd. BTS Surasak

Espresso

MAGNIFICENT SONGKRAN BUFFET LUNCH Espresso features khao chae (rice soaked in jasmine-scented water) and a range of Thai desserts during its lunch buffet (B999 per person) from Apr 13-15. Intercontinental, 973 Ploen Chit Rd., 02-6560444. BTS Chit Lom

Rocket X 72

ROCKET X 72 COURTYARD The fourth branch of the chic Scandinavian brunch and coffee spot comes in the form of a quick “grab and go” pit-stop. G/F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-635-0404

25 Degrees

A Guide to Bangkok’s Best Restaurants BKmagazine.com/TopTables

SONGKRAN TEMPLE FAIR ON THE TERRACE This Songkran (Apr 13-15), 25 Degrees decorates its terrace like a Thai temple with live DJs and a takeaway burger set deal at B250 net. G/F, Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, 188 Silom Rd., 02-238-1991

Thiptara

BEAT THE SUMMER HEAT Khao chae chow wang is available at The Lobby from noon-10:30pm and at Thiptara from 6-10:30pm at B490 per person. Throughout April. The Peninsula, 333 Charoennakorn Rd., 02-861-2888. Free Ferry from BTS Saphan Taksin

Gateway Ekamai

BANGKOK FARMERS’ MARKET

Advertise your business with us ­

The weekend foodies market where you can buy products straight from the source takes place at Gateway Ekamai. Apr 9-10, 10am-6pm.

This sweet and savory-focused cafe also boasts one of Bangkok’s most unique dining tables. 1246 Rama 4 Rd., 084-459-6266

KHAO CHAE

Suhring

Dusit Thani, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-200-9000. MRT Silom

SUHRING Twin chefs Thomas and Mathias Suhring go back to their German roots.

Deals

Yen Akat Soi 3, 02-287-1799

Up & Above

CELEBRATE SONGKRAN IN STYLE PH1

Credit card/Debit card payment accepted

3NVY

Throughout April, Benjarong offers a luxury set of khao chae at B550 per set.

982/22 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-108-2888. BTS Ekkamai

starting from B6,000 Email sales@asia-city.co.th or call 026249601

3NVY

SUNDAY’S BEST ORGANIC BRUNCH PH1(Party House One) introduces a new Sunday brunch promotion. Named Naturally Delicious, the brunch focuses on fresh and organic produce, sourced from the Royal Projects and S-Pure. Every Sun from noon2:30pm. B990 net per person through May 29.

Up & Above prices khao chae set at B499. Available from noon-2:30pm throughout April. The Okura Prestige, 57 Wireless Rd., 02-6879000. BTS Phloen Chit

MAYGORI After You’s spin-off is all about icy treats. The Commons, Thonglor Soi 17, 02-185-2519

Ma Maison

Siam@Siam, 865 Rama 1 Rd., 02-217-3000. BTS National Stadium

Khao Chae Deals

SUMMER RICE AT NAI LERT PARK HERITAGE HOME

SUMMER FOOD FESTIVAL

Ma Maison offers its khao chae set at B390 throughout April.

From Apr 10-26, Erawan Tea Room offers its summer menu, including khao chae, khao mun somtam (green papaya salad with coconut-flavoured rice) and mieng goong (crispy shrimp salad with betel leaves).

Maygori

Nai Lert Park Heritage Home, 4 Soi Somkid, Ploen Chit Rd., 02-655-4773. BTS Phloen Chit

Erawan, 494 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-250-7777. BTS Chit Lom

THE EASIEST WAY TO BOOK YOUR FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

Find out more at www.chope.co/toptables BK Magazine Friday, April 8, 2016

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bites

OPEN DOOR

Lady Brett x 72 Courtyard Sathorn's sleek barbecue-focused bistro expands to Thonglor. The buzz: The Sathorn tavern recently spread its wings to Thonglor’s 72 Courtyard, bringing on-board former-Opposite Mess Hall chef Jess Barnes in the process. The decor: Cues to the original venue remain in the tiled walls, rich red leather chairs and geometric lighting sculptures. Here though the whole thing benefits from one huge glass wall, the option to sit out on the terrace, and an open kitchen where you can watch Barnes lose his shit with the team. It’s less reminiscent of a dim French tavern than the Sathorn branch, but in many minds that might be a good thing. The food and drinks: Barnes brings his talents mainly to the starters and salads, which are now a great complement to the restaurant’s barbecue-heavy menu. You’ll find dishes like duck menage

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a trois (duck parfait, rillettes and ham with onion jam, chutney and charred sourdough, B390), smoked burrata (B590) with charred kale, air-dried mullet roe and sourdough toast, and—a must-order— diamond clams (B500) with spicy prawn broth, French butter and toasted nori. For something crunchy and hearty, look no further than the buttermilk fried chicken sandwich (B320), which features light and crispy chicken, lettuce, spicy sauce and pickles. The barbecue list still covers it all, baby chicken (B450) to tomahawk steak (B2,500), while there’s also now whole salt-baked fish (B900-1,900) and lamb shoulder (B2,500). Group pastry chef Jeff Oberg takes care of the dessert menu, rolling out impressive items like vanilla panna cotta (B225), chocolate banana split (sponge cake, meringue, caramel sauce and whipped cream, B250) and yuzu-lemon sorbet (B50).

The drinks: There’s one small menu for aperitifs and one for digestifs, each created around four different base spirits—vermouth, gin, cognac, tequila, brandy and rum. Pre-dinner, we recommend the Bitter Frenchman (Hennessy V.S, umeshu, Aperol and bitters, B330) while the the creamy Lady Brett Irish (Tullamore Dew whiskey, Muscovado sugar, coffee and citrus heavy cream, B355) works equally well as a dessert. Wine starts at B325 by the glass while beer and cider start at B195. Why you should care: With Jess Barnes’ creations added to some of the best barbecue in this town, this collaboration between reliable hands won’t disappoint. Natcha Sanguankiattichai 72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-392-7626. Open TueSun 6pm-midnight

BK Magazine Friday, April 8, 2016

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Tentacles

Dressed

(Un)fashion Dining

Panorama

NEW AND NOTED

Spreading Tentacles Local artist-led initiative Tentacles (Narathiwas Soi 22, 089117-3434; 082-487-1487), has upped sticks from Thonglor to open a cafe and art store in Yannawa. Right next to Gallery Ver, the space serves up Aeropress coffee from B60 or French press from B90, as well as loose leaf (B120 per pot) and infusion tea (B100 per pot), and Italian sodas (B65). Easy bites include all-day breakfast (cheese and sweetcorn scrambled eggs with salad and toast, B120), three-cheese grilled sandwiches (B130) and tagliatelle pasta with homemade pesto (B180). They also host workshops that focus on embroidery, painting and pottery.

On the Beach Ekkamai’s coolest vintage store has expanded with a proper restaurant. Set in a wood-heavy space, (Un)fashion Dining gives out a chill, beachy vibe while serving easy homemade dishes. On top of the coffee and desserts you could already

TABLE TALK

expect from the cafe, food covers everything from rocket salad, sandwiches, Japanese curry rice (all B185) and larb moo (B230) to homemade thin-crust pizza (starting at B185) and boiled Canadian lobster (starting at B780). Unlike the vintage fashion at the original cafe, the shop section here is all about new home-decor items imported from the US.

Green Field Following openings in Chidlom, Siam and Sathorn, the fourth branch of Dressed (2/F, Exchange Tower, Sukhumvit Soi 21, 02-258-2280) has arrived in bustling Asoke. Expect the chain’s specialty salads, wraps, paninis, pastas and smoothies. There are also a few new dishes including the vegetarian panini (feta cheese, roasted red peppers, mixed oak, grilled asparagus and honey dijon aioli, B169), High Energy salad (iceberg, spinach, green apples, beet roots, pesto chicken, almonds, flax seeds and kiwi vinaigrette, B169), breakfast burrito (B149) and superfood smoothies (B99-129). Natcha Sanguankiattichai and Joseph Lam

23/F, Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park, 952 Rama 4 Rd., 02-632-9000. MRT Silom BTS Saladaeng The all-day dining restaurant on the 23rd floor offers a great panoramic view of the city, overlooking Lumpini Park. Head here during lunch and enjoy an international buffet at B1,001 net with scrumptious barbecue meats as the highlight. The dinner menu features casual Thai and European dishes. Do try the seafood spicy tomato pasta (B340) with your choice of homemade fettuccine, linguine or spaghetti, lamb chop (B690) and wagyu ribeye steak (B880). Exclusive privileges for Citi credit cardmembers. Dine 2 pay 1 for Grilled Lunch Buffet (Monday – Friday) Today – 30 Jun 16

To redeem your favorite dining vouchers, please visit www.citirewards.com. Simply click “Thailand” and then “Gift voucher”

BK Magazine Friday, April 8, 2016

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bites FOOD REVIEWS

Baan HHHH Thai. 139/5 Wireless Rd. (between Japanese Embassy and Lumphini Police Station), 02- 655-8995, 081-432-4050. Open daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm. MRT Lumphini. BB-BBB. Corkage B500 (waived if you also open a bottle of house wine). F

At Baan, one of Bangkok’s leading Thai chefs, Thitid Tassanakajohn, retreats from the modernist culinary techniques he learned in New York in favor of homey, everyday Thai meals. Co-run by his younger brother Chaisiri and girlfriend Manintorn Maksiri, Baan dishes out unpretentious meals which prove chic, high-quality dining can be delivered at pocket-friendly prices. Though the interior’s geometric white furnishings and black walls might be at odds with Baan’s name, the stylish design does create a warm and inviting environment that’s at the same time sophisticated. The menu highlights how seriously the chef takes his produce, telling you all about the eggs from Udomchai Farm, beef from dryaging king Company B, seafood from

Marie Guimar HHHH Asian. 113 Thonglor Soi 15, 02-712-8036. Open daily 10am-10pm . BB-BBB. Corkage B300. F

Marie Guimar was a Japanese-Portuguese woman who introduced Portugueseinfluenced desserts like thong yod (golden drops) and foi thong (golden threads) to Thailand back in the Ayutthaya period. But don’t expect to find either classic old Thai recipes or Portuguese fusion at this restaurant. The same team behind French restaurant 4 Garcons instead dishes out three cuisines: Indonesian, Vietnamese and Thai, with the latter dominating the menu. You’ll find a bit of everything from nostalgic home-cooked dishes like khao pad kak moo (fried rice with pork crackling) and pad krapao (B140-180) to khao chae (soaked steamed rice in iced water with side dishes, B320). Most of the Vietnamese offerings can be found in the salad section, including the refreshing goi Ratings

Price guide

PPPP Forget it PPPP Only if you’re in the neighborhood PPPP A pleasant dining experience PPPP Not to be missed

B BB BBB BBBB

BK pays for its meal and does not call ahead or sit with the chef.

sustainable fisheries in Prachuap Khiri Khan and organic rice from Sisaket. The benefit of this really comes through in dishes like the pla gung (spicy shrimp salad with herbs, B280)—fresh-tasting and packed full of hearty chunks of shrimp. Their signature kai palo tom sap (spicy five-spice egg soup, B280) also offers well-rounded spiciness along with tender, guilty-pleasure chunks of pork belly. Though sweetness dominates the flavor of many of Baan’s dishes, we do really enjoy the som tam pa (spicy papaya salad with mixed vegetables and fermented mussels and fish, B120). This refined version of an intense dish lacks nothing in terms of freshness, but you may want more of a kick of pla ra if you’re a big fan of this fermented Isaan fish. Their tod mun pla (spicy fish cake, B280) is perfectly fried and has a nice spongy texture that goes well with the house-made sweet dipping sauce. The signature stir-fried pork neck in red curry paste (B350) is another safe bet—rich and aromatic. But not everything hits the right note. Baan’s kraprao nuea (dry-stir-fried minced dry-aged beef with holy basil, B350) leaves us disappointed due to a lack of flavor and the oily fried basil. The desserts, too, are nothing to write home about— instead save your cash for delicious cocktails like the tea-infused rum and lime Cha Manao (B200). All considered, Baan’s combination of authentic food and modish setting offers something new to Bangkok which we think is well worth trying.

ngo sen nam bao ngu (lotus stem and mushroom salad, B160), which packs a satisfying mix of sliced shallots, pickled cucumber, chopped peanuts, deep-fried shallots and sour Vietnamese vinaigrette. As for Indonesian, the recommended soto betawi (cocount-based Jakarta beef soup, B180) isn’t as rich as a Thai coconut curry yet still reveals bold and balanced flavors. It’s more successful than the deep-fried half duck (B450), which, though light and crispy, relies on the aromatic Indonesian coconut rice and chili dipping sauce for flavor. The same rice features in the khao mun somtam (seasoned rice with papaya salad, shredded pork and chicken curry, B200), which comes served in a cute triple-decker Thai tiffin, and all the elements get along very well. The only real linkage we found between the restaurant name and the food is the namesake Marie Guimar tart (B130), which is basically an almond tart with two yolk-based treats: thong yod and foi thong. It reads too sweet but tastes genius—textured and aromatic. With its conservatory-style glass facade and wellcurated Southeast Asian bric-a-brac, Marie Guimar comes across as fancy enough without being too formal, making for a relaxing place for friends and families who want dishes that are comforting without being boring.

Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

Symbols

H Reservations recommended F Parking available E Dress requirements G Live music

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now WED Wetter the Better S2O Music Festival is like Songkran on steroids: more water, more alcohol and more EDM music. It takes over the Show DC Oasis Arena (Rama 9 Rd.) this Apr 13-15, with Dutch DJ sensation Nicky Romero headlining a roster that also includes Makj, Deorro, Afrojack, Quintino, Vinai and a whole bunch more. Tickets start at B1,800, available at s2ofestival.com

WED Happy New Year Songkran is here in all kinds of guises. Flip to page 6 for our celebration of old-school merit-making traditions. Head straight to Silom, RCA or Khao San for the usual water wars. Or explore our BK Now section for massive EDM concerts, gay extravaganzas and swanky pool parties.

SAT Reason to Smile Bangkok gets a whole lot more colorful when the Colour Miles for Smiles charity running event returns to Lumphini Park (Rama 4 Rd.) this Apr 9. For its third edition, the international schools of Bangkok have once again teamed up with Operation Smile, the charity group that provides surgery for children with cleft lips, to throw a huge color run that’s all for a good cause. Stick around after crossing the finish line for even more color throws, fun games and food and drink stalls. Entry is B800, register at www.operationsmile.or.th

FRI Armagayddon The gay men of Taiwan, Singapore and Hong Kong are converging upon Bangkok for three days of shirtless fun at gCircuit (see page 24) and some spill-over action in Silom Soi 2. If you haven't been hitting the gym for the past six months, you're pretty much screwed. Or rather, you aren't. Anyway, have fun boys!

SUN A Kind of Magic Disbelief takes a whole new level when Broadway’s biggest-selling magic show, The Illusionists, hits the stage at Royal Paragon Hall (5/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-8023) through Apr 10 for a series of world-class magic tricks. It’s not just about magic, though. Dance acts and comic routines also play a part in logic-defying performances from the world’s best illusionists. Tickets are B1,500-5,500 from Thaiticketmajor.com.

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now NIGHTLIFE

SONGKRAN

Timmy Trumpet

TIMMY TRUMPET

The Australian house DJ known for incorporating trumpet solos into electro tracks performs live, with support from DJs Hell Kids, Romper and Ball. Dress code is red. Apr 8, 6pm. Ztudio Live Hall, RCA, Chalerm Phrakiat Rama 9, 093-939-9893. Free. SURREALISTIC PEOPLE NO. 7

DJ Paul Unglo spins psyched-out tunes ranging from cinematic funk to avant-garde jazz with support from DJ Maft Sai. Apr 8, 9pm. Studio Lam, Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661. B200. BTS Thong Lo. THAI'M OUT: SUNSET SESSION WITH PETE HERBERT

A riverside sunset party hosted by the disco and house DJ who's performed at London's top nightclubs Ministry of Sound and Fabric. Support from local DJs Harrington, Zeek, Jaydubb and Chote. Apr 9, 3pm. Viva Aviv, River City Shopping Complex, 23 Yotha Rd., 02-639-6305. Free. PETE HERBERT

The English DJ who's played at Ministry of Sound and Fabric takes over the night with his latest nu disco and

Sing Sing

indie dance tracks. Apr 9, 9pm. Sing Sing, Sukhumvit Soi 45 (next to Quince), 097-285-6888. Free. BTS Phrom Phong. SPEAKEASY SHABEEN

DJ Por Yai hosts a night dedicated to jazz, ska, mambo and rhythm 'n' blues from the '40s, '50s and '60s that guarantees plenty of foot stomping and swinging dance moves. Apr 9, 9pm. Studio Lam, Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661. B200. BTS Thong Lo. TRINITY

A party focusing on music from over 20 local DJs spread across three zones dedicated to hip-hop/R&B, trap, and EDM/future house. Apr 9, 10pm. Live RCA Bangkok, RCA, Rama 9 Rd., 086-860-0808. B250350 includes one drink. MARI FERRARI

The Russian house DJ who's toured to over 50 countries performs her signature electro and progressive house beats live. Apr 17, 9pm. Levels, 6/F, Aloft Hotel, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 082-308-3246. B300 includes one drink. BTS Nana.

LIVE MUSIC

gigs

Drowning Pool

classical

DROWNING POOL

SSMS ORCHESTRA

The popular heavy metal band from Texas perform songs from their latest album, Hellelujah, including hits "By the Blood" and "Snake Charmer" as part of their Bangkok debut. Apr 10, 8pm. The Rock Pub, Hollywood Street, 93/26-28 Phaya Thai Rd., 02-2519980, 086-977-0621. B1,0001,200. BTS Ratchathewi.

Silapakorn University's faculty of music, conducted by special guest Hikotaro Yazaki, performs Tchaikovsky's 1812 Overture, Massenet's Scenes Alsaciennes and Brahms'; Symphony No.2. Apr 10, 5pm. Mahisorn Hall, Room 18-19, 4/F, SCB Park Plaza, New Ratchadapisek Rd., 02-9375400. B100-600.

Songkran Splash Away W Hotel

music festivals PEPSI S20

Get a dose of EDM at the three-day music festival where Dutch progressive house DJ Nicky Romero will be headlining. Other big names include Afrojack, Deorro, Makj and Quintino. Apr 11-14. Show Oasis Arena, Rama 9 Rd. B1,800-3,900 at s20festival.com

SONGKRAN RCA COLORLIFE MUSIC FESTIVAL 2016

Every day of this five-day party features a different theme including the Bubble Light party, a night hosted by DJ Psychoza; the Disco Dance party, where celebrities and net idols will be joining the fun; the Foam Backlight party, promising plenty of bubbles and lasers; the Full Moon Print party, with lots of glow in the dark body paint; and the Country Dance Concert party that promises danceable Thai-style beats. Apr 12-16, 4:30pm-late. RCA Bangkok, Kampaengpet Rd.

parties SONGKRAN FESTIVAL AT CRAFT

A water-free three-day indoor and outdoor party filled with good food, strong drinks and live music performances. On top of a selection of 80 wines, 60 craft beers, 140 malt whiskies, 1,000 cigars and a long list of cocktails, enjoy live music from DJs Camilo, Mr. Markus, Mizuyo and live bands The Jukes, Fab Four and The Vintagers. Apr 13-15, 2pm-late. Craft, 18 Sukhumvit Soi 23. B350.

SONGKRAN SPLASH AWAY W HOTEL

STAGE PERFORMANCES

The chic hotels’ annual festive pool party, this year dubbed “Songkran Splash Away 2016,” is always one of the best in town. They collaborate with local party collective the Kolour Krew to bring a lively, cool crowd to the hotel’s “Wet Deck,” where you’ll find live electronic music and specially crafted cocktails sponsored by Ciroc Vodka. April 13, 1pm-8pm. W Hotel Bangkok, 106 Sathorn Rd. 02-344-4000. B700-900 from www. wbangkok.com

G CIRCUIT SK10

theater UP POMPEII

THE ILLUSIONISTS

Bangkok Community Theater presents the British comedy filled with innuendo and oneliners as part of a three-course "dinner theater" performance. Through Apr 9, 7pm. Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok, 11 Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-620-6666. 1,000.

Broadway's biggest-selling magic show features seven of the world's best illusionists in a series of logic-defying performances which combine dance, comedy and world-class props. Through Apr 10, 8pm. Royal Paragon Hall, 5/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-8023. B1,500-5,500. BTS Siam.

24

This annual gay party takes place over three days and stretches across multiple venues, including huge opening and closing parties at CentralWorld and pool parties at Sofitel So and Double Tree by Hilton. Be prepared for lots of topless locals and tourists dancing the night away.

Z-SPLASH SONGKRAN FEST

A two-day party that transforms the parking space of this club into a massive water fight featuring live DJs and lots of drinks. A VIP package is available for B7,000 including five one-day pass tickets, two bottles of Chivas Regal Extra, 10 mixers and two tanks of water. Apr 13-14, 4pm-late. DND Club, Ekamai Soi 5/1. B400.

WILD & WET

The city’s first ever open-air beach bar hosts a four-day celebration featuring 18 international and local DJs all be spinning plenty of danceable house and techno beats. Apr 12-15, 2pm-late. Superflow Beach Club, Khao San Rd. B250 (includes one drink).

SONGKRAN MUSIC FSTVL 2016

A three day celebration packed with 12 hours of music each day. DJs include Dan Buri, Nemo Cools, Messie Joe, Ikono, Alex Fischer and many more. Apr 13-16, 7pm-late. Mustache Bangkok, 554/5 Ratchadapisek Soi 7, 081-844-7080.

AMWET AQUA SONGKRAN POOL PARTY

Join DJs Yui Truluv, Pepe, Nemo Cools and Dee Iris for a huge pool party filled with water guns, refreshing drinks and music guaranteed to get you dancing. There’ll also be a costume contest for the best dressed male and female, who’ll win a B1,000 voucher for Hooters Bangkok and a bottle of Three Monkeys Rum. Free entry for ladies before 3pm. Apr 13, 12-9pm. Ambar Bangkok, Four Points by Sheraton, 4 Sukhumvit Soi 15. B400 (includes one drink)

traditional WATER FESTIVAL

For a more cultural celebration this Songkran, temples including Wat Arun, Wat Prayoon, Wat Pho and Wat Kalayanamitr will each have their own activities, along with riverside shopping promenades Tha Maharaj, Yodpiman Riverwalk and Asiatique the Riverfront. See page 6 for more.

other SONGKRAN RUN

Kick-start Songkran with some healthy exercise at this run offering 2.5, 5, 7.5 and 10km distances. Three fun stations will take place along the track: water, powder play and Thai folk dancing. Apr 3, 5pm. Lumphini Park, Rachadamri Rd. B300, register at songkranrun2016@gmail.com

Apr 15-17. B5,400 from www.gcircuit.com

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now ART Last Chance

ART HIGHLIGHTS

2012-2555,2556,2557

A video Installation by Korakrit Arunanondchai, a New York-based Thai artist whose work has been exhibited at MOMA, Palais de Tokyo and UCCA Ullens Center for Contemporary Art. The work captures the bridge between social media and pop culture versus Buddhism and other religious symbols, in an exploration of the world of science and the world of technology. Through-Sep 10. Jim Thompson House & Art Center, Jim Thompson House, Soi Kasem San 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368.

FOURSOME

A group exhibition by four local artists who present colorful portraits of nude bodies, taking inspiration from the Theater of the Absurd style of Eugene Ionesco. Apr 9-May 31. Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC), 939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630-8.

1600 Pandas

Permanent Spraycation

Brooklyn 11211

1600 PANDAS

French artist Paulo Grangeon, with support from WWF Thailand, has presented these 1,600 papier mache figurines at 10 iconic locations around the country. Now stationed at Central Embassy, the global art project aims to raise awareness for panda conservation through panda-related workshops and the chance for visitors to “adopt” a figurine to take home, with all proceeds going to WWF Thailand. NO HUMAN ART EXHIBITION

OMNIVOYEUR AND ELECTRICAL WALKS

A group exhibition by 15 renowned Thai artists including Suwat Saenkatiyarat, Nipon Jungkina, Sippavich Pholsingh, Somyot Kumsang and more, who showcase their works exploring animal instincts in humans. Apr Through-May 10. Sathorn 11 Art Space, 404 Sathorn Soi 11.

An electromagnetic sound and visual project by Christina Kubisch and Miti Ruangkritya that captures ambient sounds from around the city which are inaudible to the naked ear. Through-Jul 10. Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC), 939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630-8.

Through Apr 10. Central Embassy, 1031 Ploen Chit Rd., 02-160- 5924. BTS Phloen Chit

BROOKLYN 11211

Some may call hanging out of a window at night taking pictures of passersby a little creepy, but Jesper Haynes calls it art. Known for capturing raw, gritty everyday moments, the American/Swedish photographer presents his photography series capturing the various characters and unique moments he witnessed through the window of his Brooklyn apartment Through Apr 12. Soy Sauce Factory, 11/1 Charoenkrung Soi 24, 061-835-6824

PERMANENT SPRAYCATION

Graffiti artist Tones One EDK from Switzerland captures the adventures from his past six months spent traveling around Asia in an exhibition using graffiti, paintings, photography and videos. In this visual travel diary, the artist brings anecdotes of his time in Delhi, Varanasi, Kolkata, Bangkok, Phnom Penh and more to a collection of energetic and colorful art pieces. Through Apr 10. GOJA Gallery Cafe, 5/2 Pridi Soi 3, 085-848-7576. BTS Phra Khanong

PAINTER PRESTIGE

Verapong Sritrakulkitjakarn presents a series of intricate collage works on canvas about the artistic life. Apr 8-30. National Gallery, 4 Chao Fa Rd., 02-2822639-40.

PAINTING WITH HISTORY IN A ROOM FILLED WITH PEOPLE WITH FUNNY NAMES 3

Korakrit Arunanondchai presents a video series on denim art, featuring light design by Alex Gvojic and music by Harry Bornstein. Through-Jun 5. Bangkok CityCity Gallery, 13/3 Sathorn Soi 1, 083-087-2725.

RED-EARED SLIDER

SOUND I SAW

Vipoo Srivilasa's latest collection of decorated ceramic turtle figurines highlights the disregard we have for the environment. Apr 2-30. S.A.C. Subhashok The Art Centre, Sukhumvit Soi 39.

A travel photography and audio exhibition featuring the winners of the cafe's first competition that invited people to share their visual memories and audio clips from their travels across the world. Apr 2-May 31. Sora City, Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-001-6600.

26

WHY NOT Take a sketch tour through Bangkok

Bangkok Sketchers, a group which organizes sketching tours of the city’s landmarks, holds its next walking tour on Apr 10, this time exploring the Banglamphu area. Meet at the Phra Nakorn District Office before winding your way through sites including San Noo, the Durai Praneet Foundation house, Wat Sungwet, Pom Phrasumen and many more. Time is given for participants to stop and sketch at each spot.

Free. 9:30am-5pm. Visit www.fb.com/groups/bksketchers for schedule details

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SPOTLIGHT Calendar Bistro, Art Box booth

UPCOMING RUNS mini marathon and 5km fun run. Register at bit.ly/1pL6fZW. May 7, 6am. Lumphini Park, Rama 4 Rd. B400-500. ULTRAMAN RUN

Ultraman Run

TU WALK AND RUN 2016

Thammasat University's running event to raise proceeds for supporting the needs of Thammasat Hospital. Offering 3.5km, 7.5km and 14km distances. Register at on.fb.me/1R254zi. Apr 24, 5am. Thammasat University (Tha Phra Chan Campus), 12 Phra Chan Rd., 02-613-3333. B300. MBKG 2ND CHARITY RACE BANGKOK 2016

MBK's annual charity race offers 5km and 10km runs, with all proceeds donated to less fortunate children around the country. Register at on. fb.me/1SXj5zG. Apr 24, 6:30am. Lumphini Park, Rama 4 Rd. B500. FRUIT RUN

A fancy dress run themed around "Colorful Fruits," where the top three runners with the best costumes will receive rewards. Offering 10km

A family-friendly fun run themed around the popular Japanese action figure, offering 2.5km and 5km distances. Register at bit.ly/1RLs0Sw. May 28, 6am. Lumphini Park, Rama 4 Rd. B850-1,000. MERK CHARITY RUN: GIVE ME FIVE

A charity team run that aims to raise funds for turtle protection around the country, organized by the Veterinary Medicine Faculty of Chulalongkorn University. Teams are made of five people running 4km each. Register at bit.ly/1RAw9p5. May 29, 6:15am. Lumphini Park, Rama 4 Rd. B500. BANGKOK LIFE ASSURANCE HALF MARATHON 2016

The city's biggest life insurance company hosts this annual half marathon to promote healthy living, offering distances 21.1km, 10.5km and 5km. Register at bit.ly/1VUDx53. Jun 12, 5:15am. Suan Luang Rama VIII Public Park, Arun Amarin Rd. B300-500.

Our favorite thing about Artbox is… that there are always new booths every time we visit, both fashion and food. Plus every booth is unique and often very creative. We never get bored. One thing that’s missing from Artbox is… fans and air-con! It gets very hot sometimes, especially when the crowd is big. But still, I think that’s a minor aspect—everything else about the market makes up for it. Our favorite recurring market in Bangkok is… Made by Legacy. It’s more of an event than a market because there’s so much to it. Every shop that joins Made by Legacy is always great.

Our favorite place to go shopping in Thailand is… Rimping Supermarket in Chiang Mai. It’s a new chain of concept supermarkets that focuses on high-quality produce, cheap prices and trendy design. We’re a big fan of them. One thing we dislike about shopping in Bangkok is… it’s repetitive. Every big mall offers the same group of fashion brands and chain restaurants, so it’s never exciting anymore.

Calendar Bistro is known for its drink stall selling the famous “Angel Blood” and “Devil Blood” mocktails served in medicinal saline solution pouches. They’ll be at The Glass by Art Box every week through Jun 16.

Art Box Exhibition Market, Near Benjasiri Park, BTS Phrom Pong (exit 6). Every Fri-Sun through Jun 16.

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now FILM Opening

LUANG PEE JAZZ 4G (THAI)

THE HUNTSMAN: WINTER’S WAR (USA)

Comedy. An ex-playboy-turned-monk must try to stay disciplined in his new role while his two friends tease him with the fun of normal life during Songkran. Apr 6

Action. A young queen who can freeze her enemies in ice (Emily Blunt) resurrects the body of her dead sister to form an indestructible army that threatens the entire kingdom. Apr 6

Upcoming

THE JUNGLE BOOK

KNIGHT OF CUPS

Adventure. Young jungle boy Mowgli (voiced by Neel Sethi) goes on a journey of self-discovery with the help of his friends the panther (Ben Kingsley) and bear (Bill Murray). Based on the popular children’s book. Apr 13

Romance/Drama After the death of his brother, a lonesome screenwriter (Christian Bale) seeks comfort from a nurse (Cate Blanchett), a married woman (Natalie Portman), a stripper (Teresa Palmer) and a model (Freida Pinto). Apr 13 TAKE ME HOME

Horror. A man (Mario Maurer) suffering from memory loss after a horrific accident returns home to his family, only to discover that they are hiding a terrible secret. Apr 13

This Ap Animat 50 shor more d

Recycli

Ten aut

SPECIAL SCREENINGS

Fly Mill

Recycling (across Europe) Ten authors from 10 European countries experiment with celluloid film. The Delta Arrow (Italy) A priest, a group of peasants and strange creatures from the forest gather together to play a game of bingo.

This Apr 10, Bridge art space screens a selection of animated short films from the first AWAS (A Week of Animation Shorts) Festival that took place in Kuala Lumpur this Mar 5-13. The festival featured more than 50 shorts from over 20 countries alongside workshops and discussions. Here’s a look at the selection. For more details on the schedule, visit bit. ly/1pELWNp.

Kali the Little Vampire (Portugal) A young vampire who struggles to go out in daylight lives enviously of the other children who are able to play outside. Postindustrial (Bulgaria) A visual retelling of the famous Bulgarian poem by Kaloyan Pramatarov.

Black Bones/A Common Grave (Spain) Animated ink drawings following a group of socially invisible people.

Fly Mill (Estonia) A stop-motion puppet film inspired by photographs of bird hunters taken through an attic window in Estonia.

Mr Sea (China) Based on a popular Chinese supernatural tale following a high-tempered scholar and a prostitute, both made out of porcelain.

Some Actions Which Haven’t Been Defined Yet in the Revolution (China) A dark portrait of modern-day China. Saint Laszlo’s Miracles: Part 1 (Italy) Animated pencil sketches following the life of Saint Laszlo.

Free entry. 9pm. Bridge Cafe and Art Space, Charoenkrung Soi 51, 086-986-9421. BTS Saphan Taksin.

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The De

A pries bingo.

Black B

Animat

Mr Sea Based


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