P.[A] Noble_Sep15_707.indd 2
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P.[B] Noble_Sep15_707.indd 2
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The new Nana?
BK MAGAZINE NO. 707 FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2017. www.bkmagazine.com
The changing face of Charoenk rung
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page 3 What We’ve Learned 4 cover story
Charoenkrung Take Two 3 upfront
10 escape routes
BTS For All
Thai Travel News 11 avenue
13 blends
Now and Next
Drink It In
14 bites
22 bk now
Local Rules
Something for the Weekend
Who's in charge? Managing Director Andrew Hiransomboon Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Content Coordinator Nontaya Kumyat Staff Writers Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj, Theerada Moonsiri, Wanvida Jiralertpaiboon Junior Writers Neon Boonyadhammakul, Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan, Kasidit Srivilai, Kankanok Wichiantanon Art Director Vatanya Bongkotkarn Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Senior Graphic Designer Peeraya Sirathanisa Graphic Designers Anunya Chobnitas, Wirankan Saiyasombut Video Content Manager Chanon Wongsatayanont Video Editors Tanaporn Choopanya, Pattanagorn Adirekkiat Media Designer Saranya Laowtrakul
Where to find us!
The Asia City Media Group
Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Sales Managers Tipkritta Chiraporncharas, Orajira Sukkasem, Onwara Sittirug Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Nattaya Bovornsettanon, Orakarn Laohakanjanasiri, Amarit Jinaya Sales Associate Pichayarak Chalermchainukul Senior Project Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Managing Editor (Studio) Dietrich Neu Branded Content Associate Sureepak Janyapat Project Coordinators Nutnicha Nuttanakorn, Peerada Chotiya Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Assistant Finance Manager Anchalee Limkhamduang Senior Accountant Maneeya Kanthongdang Administrator Yaovaluck Srisermsri Accountant Manita Bangmoung
Bangkok Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower 100 North Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 Email: bkmagazine@asia-city.co.th
Contributors Kathy MacLeod Interns Koraporn Kanchanabudhu, Baitoey Karntimon, Siriya Suriyanon Cover Design by Peeraya Sirathanisa
Asia City Media Group Chief Executive Officer Greg Duncan (gduncan@asiacity.net) Director Gretchen Worth (gworth@asia-city.co.th)
Singapore Asia City Publishing Pte. Ltd. Block 211 Henderson Rd. #07-02 Henderson Industrial Park Singapore 159552 Tel: 65-6323-2512 Fax: 65-6323-2779 Email: contact@asia-city.com.sg
That northern Thailand’s home to truffles Chiang Mai University biologists have discovered two all-new species of truffles growing in Doi Suthep Park, the first of their kind in a tropical climate. A white-colored truffle has been given the name tuber thailanddicum, while another that’s brown on the outside but with a white interior has been dubbed tuber lannaense. The former has been compared to the super-exclusive Italian white truffle, which costs up to B160,000/kg. That a Sala Daeng somtam restaurant is taking over the world Despite losing its New York Michelin star in 2017, Isaan restaurant Somtum Der’s success continues to skyrocket. The expansion of the chain to Ho Chi Minh City in 2016 and Beijing earlier this year cemented its international reputation. Now, the Sala Daeng-hailing somtam specialist is taking on Japan, with a fifth branch officially opening in the Yoyogi Matsui building, Tokyo, this week. Saep! That Charoenkrung’s getting some amazing desserts Fresh from releasing his first cookbook, Lickerland, pastry mastermind Jason Licker (formerly head of the sweet kitchen at Ku De Ta Bangkok, among many other impressive stints) drops by Charoenkrung’s buzzing new izakaya, Jua (see cover story, page 4), this week. As part of The Return of Lickerland on Sep 22-23, he’ll be whipping up some of his prized creations alongside a preview menu of yakitori and other bar bites. That Louis Vuitton’s Time Capsule Exhibition is the real deal Bangkok’s only the second city in the world, after Hong Kong, to host the exhibition that looks back at 163 years of the French luxury fashion house. The pop-up at Parc Paragon trace LV’s origins as a trunk-maker, its design evolution, very special custom-made pieces and collaborations with worldrenowned artists. Just beware, the Chinese tourists and hi-so aunties are out in force, so you’ll have to queue up for an hour first. Oh, and don’t forget to pick up one of the free postcards on the way out. Runs through Sep 25. That Bangkok has a seven-hour-long happy hour No more rushing to get the drinks in. Flava Bar on the second floor of Sukhumvit Soi 15’s Dream Hotel offers a buy-oneget-one-free promo every day from 5pm till midnight. That covers 10 signature cocktails (starting at B250), wine (B200) and whiskey (B150).
BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 51 times a year, every Friday of each month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2016 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250
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BK Magazine September 15, 2017
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upfront HOT OR NOT
Hot: Micro-regional ingredients
Not: Japanese ingredients
Remember that little fad when everyone (ahem, Vivarium, Khao) was trying to improve on Thai food by making it with fancy Japanese ingredients? We can happily report that that little experiment is over. Taking its place is a tidal wave of places going hyper-local on their Thai ingredients. Flip to page 18 to find out where the real Thai feasts are happening. But if khao soy from Phayao Province doesn’t get your juices flowing, don’t worry—there’s still some kurobuta pork in there somewhere.
INTERVIEW
Hot: Coffee Tonic
Not: Gin Tonic
Junker & Bar’s been telling us for a while now that we should be mixing tonic water into our coffee. Now, the rest of Bangkok has got the memo. There’s espresso tonic at The Coffee Roaster by Library (Warehouse30), kumquat cold brew tonic at 103 Cafe, and coffee with cola at Chata Specialty Coffee. OK, so that last one’s not tonic, but it kinda works. And since you can no longer Instagram gin tonics without facing a B50,000 fine (see page 14 ), these will have to do.
tinyurl.com/ybvaw6un
tinyurl.com/yb8l29ry
Hot: Mahidol
Not: Chula
Another university ranking, another bad day for Chula. This time, the news comes from Times Higher Education (THE), which puts the university in its 601-800 category, some 100 spots lower than Mahidol. Alright, so 501-600’s no Oxbridge picnic, either, but it is the best that that our esteemed educational institutions can manage.
Hot: Credit
Not: Debt
If you thought Thailand’s average household debt was bad back in 2010, you should look at it now. According to the Bank of Thailand’s latest stats, we’re up almost 80 percent on those breezy days. We would stop and worry about it more, only we just heard about a new condo giving out free robot vacuum cleaners when you buy a unit. Yipee!
THAT’S WHAT SHE SAID
Interior architect Marut “Um” Jantaroj, 28, recently led a group of disabled commuters to test the long-overdue elevators installed at BTS Siam and Mo Chit. It’s now over two years since the Supreme Administrative Court’s landmark ruling that all BTS stations must have workng elevators within a year, yet at many places they remain inactive. As a member of KMITL’s Inclusive Design and Environmental Research (IDEaR) Unit, Um specializes in universal design, which champions the need for civic design projects to take into account the needs of everyone in society. Here, he tells us why Bangkok still has a long way to go to be accessible for all. What is the IDEaR Unit exactly? The institute was founded two years ago by Asst. Prof. Dr. Antika Sawatsri and funded by the Thai Health Promotion Foundation. Through research and various projects we aim to raise awareness of the importance of universal design in society, as it’s something often overlooked by architects, planners and designers. What drew you to work in this field? As a child I met lots of disabled people who were so creative and intelligent, but they were impeded from achieving their goals due to obstacles in their surrounding environment. It’s society’s problems, not theirs. Some people who want to go to school are prevented from doing so due to the poor standard of facilities. For example, the guiding blocks around Victory Monument, which are supposed to help blind people navigate the
area, are terribly misleading and I’d say greatly increase the risk of danger. This is evidence that this country has much to learn about universal design. No one deserves to be forgotten or degraded. What’s the reason for this lack of knowledge? Our education system doesn’t put universal design in the curriculum, but we’re trying to change that. There’s a lack of specialists in the field. Until the launch of the IDEaR Unit, Thailand never really discussed the need for facilities for the disabled. Other problems include a lack of law enforcement, as well as architects who design with only themselves, and people like them, in mind. There are millions of ways in which the disables are forgotten. We all need the ability to put ourselves in others’ shoes.
What’s the latest on the BTS elevators? It wasn’t until last year that Prayuth gave orders that buildings should provide facilities for the disabled, so progress is slow. There’s still no law but we’re stepping in the right direction, even if most of the main BTS stations, including Siam and Mo Chit, still don’t have elevators that function properly. For many stops, the elevators are under construction, which is positive in a sense. I hope it’s a sign that disabled people will become more accepted without discrimination. What else are you currently working on? I’ve been trying to push a project for low-floor buses to the Bangkok Mass Transit Authority and it’s been met with a good response. Hopefully there should be demonstrations around Bangkok soon. Neon Boonyadhammakul
by Kathy MacLeod (IG: @kathy_macleod)
BK Magazine Friday, September 15, 2017
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cover story
CHANGING
CHAROENKRUNG How the city’s oldest road is turning into Bangkok’s answer to Soho. By Oliver Irvine
Little Market
Charoenkrung Soi 28
W
hen Speedy Grandma gallery opened on Charoenkrung Road in 2012, it might as well have been in Nonthaburi for a young, downtown population raised on the social life of Sukhumvit and Silom. The area felt like a different world. Charoenkrung was for hotel brunches. It was where you headed to get on little boats shaped like temples to ferry you over to the Peninsula. It was for eating in holein-the-wall duck noodle restaurants. It was for peering in the window of antique shops and thinking “maybe, one day.” It was not for going out partying. But a community emerged. Through regular openings that would morph into wild parties, Speedy Grandma turned its tiny little Charoenkrung back soi into a byword for an alternative crowd happy to have found a creative community blossoming in a part of town that felt raw and exciting. In the intervening years, Charoenkrung has shaken off its out-of-the-way reputation. Most of the action has focused on Soi Nana—not actually on Charoenkrung, but just off it on Yaowarat— and the Talad Noi area, where the team who introduced live music venue Soulbar also opened Foojohn just up the road at the start of this year. Now, though, the neighborhood feels like it’s on the precipice of real change. As architect Duangrit Bunnag opens the doors to his Warehouse 30 project, which sees a collection of old World War II-era storage facilities overhauled into designer boutiques and coffee shops, he’s joined by a wave of independent bars, restaurants and creative spaces just one street over on Charoenkrung Soi 28, the little alley where Speedy Grandma continues to host some of the city’s most challenging art exhibitions.
START OF SOMETHING Duangrit has long championed Charoenkrung’s potential as a “creative district.” And even before him, you could hear the same phrase from Pieter Compernol, the Danish furniture-maker behind P.Tendercool's tables (stationed in the same complex as Warehouse 30). Compernol has been living and working in the area since long before even Speedy Grandma opened—in fact, the gallery’s located in his old family house. Recently, though, his “creative district” prophecy has really started to feel like it’s coming true. With the neighborhood’s old, cavernous buildings and low rents (three stories for B20,000 is still a reality in these parts) attracting more and more
4
80/20
The Fox & The Moon (Warehouse 30)
Bangkok-based photographer Jason Lang. “It gets to a point when areas of a city are saturated and artists don’t want to be around them. It’s not great to be a creative in an atmosphere like that, so looking for someplace else is a natural progression.”
Warehouse 30
young entrepreneurs, it’s with good reason that people are murmuring things about this strip of Charoenkrung like “Bangkok’s Soho.” Supplement cast iron loft apartments for narrow, crumbling shop-houses, and the similarities are there. “I think there’s definite truth in that,” says Chet Adkins, a Florida native who first came to Bangkok in 2013 as the executive chef of Ku De Ta (now Ce La Vi), the glamorous Japanese restaurant that sits atop Sathorn Square skyscraper. Now, Adkins is preparing to open his own sake bar and upscale izakaya, Jua, right beside Speedy Grandma, in partnership with
pouring the drinks in Sapparot Group’s swanky Thonglor and Sathorn haunts, Lady Brett, UNCLE and Rocket Coffeebar. “We actually planned on doing something along Sukhumvit,” says Sebastian De La Cruz, one half of the bar’s cocktail-making team. It’s a Wednesday afternoon, two days before the bar’s unofficial opening, and Seb and his business partner, Philip Stefanescu, are on-site to pose in Hawaiian shirts for photos that’ll run in another magazine quick to sweep up the news of a new Charoenkrung bar. “We’ve never loved Sukhumvit. But just as we were about to sign the contract, we found this through the guys at 80/20,” he continues, referring to the Thai-influenced tapas restaurant which sits just at the corner of Soi 28, another formative player in this stretch of Charoenkrung’s creative reinvention, and a restaurant whose talents have quickly won the admiration of Bangkok’s foodies.
“It gets to a point when areas of a city are saturated and artists don't want to be around them” These days, the first thing that greets you when you arrive on Charoenkrung Soi 28 is the bright neon pink sign of Chet’s other business, a coffee shop and burger joint called Little Market. It’s a lone pop of color from between the classic Charoenkrung patina of weather-worn walls, dust-covered potted palms, skinny street cats and scooters. That is until you look across the street. Directly opposite Little Market shines the newly painted, colorful mural of Tropic City, a rum-specializing cocktail bar from a pair of Swedish bartenders who made their names
Philip Stefanescu and Sebastian De La Cruz
BK Magazine Friday, September 15, 2017
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ADVERTORIAL
How Sustainable Transportation Can Help End Bangkok Traffic Jams
MICE VENUES CLOSE TO BTS AND MRT LINE
Bangkok is one of the most congested cities in the world. Here’s how you can help reduce the problem and contribute to sustainable transportation. Bangkok’s horribly congested roads are nothing new to the millions of people who commute to the central business district each day. What a lot of people don’t know is that the problem is getting worse every year. INRIX, a global traffic analytics company, ranked Bangkok as the 12th most congested city in the world this year—18 places worse than its ranking in 2015. According to these findings, the average Bangkokian spends more than 64 hours in traffic per year, which is even worse than other notoriously congested metropolises like Caracas and Mexico City. For years, the Thailand Convention and Exhibition Bureau (TCEB) has highlighted the importance and benefits of sustainable practices through the nation’s MICE (meeting, incentive, conventions and exhibitions) industry. The vehicles we use every day play a huge role in Bangkok’s sustainable future, and reducing our reliance on cars to get around will not only help the nation’s environment, it will also cut down on traffic. Here’s how you can contribute to bettering Bangkok’s roads.
Plan your journey well in advance It might seem like a basic step, but planning where, when and how you are going to travel makes all the difference. Having a clear transportation plan will save time and get you to where you need to be faster.
Get the lay of the land before you go These days it’s easy to learn about your destination before you go. There are countless resources online dedicated to Bangkok’s various neighborhoods, and modern GPS apps can help you determine the best route once you are on your way.
Use alternative forms of transportation Bangkok may have some of the worst traffic congestion in the world, but it also enjoys a diverse range of transportation options, and it’s easy to start making sustainable choices.
BTS/MRT
BITEC
Not only is this one of the most convenient ways to travel in Bangkok, but smart MICE organizers almost always plan their events in locations close to BTS and MRT lines. In addition, most of Bangkok’s major shopping centers and hotels sit right next to the city’s train stations. Same goes for public parks— Benjasiri park is right next to BTS Phrom Phong while Lumpini park is just across from MRT Silom and BTS Sala Daeng.
One of Bangkok’s most
This is the most eco-friendly mode of transportation out there. Not only is cycling a great way to stay in shape, it also reduces your carbon footprint and helps to clean up Bangkok’s roads.
Carpool Carpooling is one of the oldest, and best, methods of reducing your transportation costs and carbon footprint. Ask your co-workers or neighbors if they want to start a carpooling schedule. Some shopping centers, like CentralWorld, actually reserve premium parking spaces for groups of carpoolers.
Don’t be afraid to use the bus for adventures around Bangkok’s old town area, especially now that there is a new collaboration between the Traffic Policy and Transport Office and Mayday, a non-profit organization dedicated to Bangkok’s urban development. The two companies have joined forces to create “informative bus stops” around Ratchadamnoen Road to help riders understand the various attractions found at each stop and what bus gets them there.
TCEB_Sep 15_new.indd 19
of the country’s biggest international expos each year—just a short walk from BTS Bang Na. Royal Paragon Hall A striking gold-and-white multi-purpose convention hall, right in the heart of Bangkok inside the famous Siam Paragon shopping mall—connected to BTS Siam. QSNCC More than two decades after its Royal inauguration, the Queen Sirikit National Convention Center remains one of the most prestigious halls in all of Thailand— connected to MRT Queen
This is a perfect choice to get out of town— you don’t have to drive yourself and get to share the traveling experience with others. You can catch a minivan at Victory Monument and take it virtually anywhere in the country.
Sirikit Center.
Boat
known for its opulent dining
Traveling by boat is a quintessential form of Bangkok transportation that dates back centuries. The city’s vast network of boats provides a fast and easy way to get to its most vibrant cultural and historical centers, like the Arun Ratchwanaram and Yannawa temples—all while enjoying beautiful views of the Chao Phraya River.
Plaza Athenee Bangkok Hotel One of the city’s most wellrespected luxury hotels, options and renowned spa treatments—just a short walk from BTS Phloen Chit. BCC Hall Central Plaza Ladprao A large-scale concert hall and convention center that is regularly host to high-profile musicians and world-class performers—connected to MRT Phahon Yothin.
By
What is MICE? M – Meetings I – Incentives C – Conventions E – Exhibitions & Events
centers and host to some
center and concert
Bus
Minivan
Cycling
renowned convention
Join the conversation:
MICE Capabilities
tcebmicecap
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cover story HIP HAPPENINGS ON CHAROENKRUNG OVER THE LAST SIX YEARS
2011 P.TENDERCOOL
Since: Jan 2011 What: Bespoke furniture showroom. Host of glamorous food events.
Tropic City
fb.com/ptendercool
2012 SPEEDY GRANDMA
Since: Aug 2012 What: Art gallery, performance space and design studio. Jua
“It’s a big risk moving here,” adds Philip, equally as down-to-earth and beardy as his cocktail-making other half. “We actually knew nothing about the neighborhood. People would say to us six months ago, ‘Why!?’ Now those same people are like, ‘Oh, you were right, that area is so cool right now.’ But we love the area, it’s so much more calm than central Bangkok.” With its tropical flower motifs, white-washed brick walls, mid-century appointments and colorful Portuguese tiles, the bar is a lesson in “now”—a medley of tasteful trends tied together with a boozy menu that hopes to kick it with the very best cocktail bars in town. In the same building, right above Tropic City, sits Black Pig tattoo studio, where Japanese-American artist Luke Satoru took up residence a little over a year ago, around the time that 80/20 was opening. “We looked at a number of buildings around Nana and here but our main focus was to get off Sukhumvit and be somewhere with community,” says Satoru. “When you’re trying to do something unique and special, you don’t want to get lost in the noise. This destination is not run of the mill.” Far from it. Soi 28’s buildings—some old factories, some storage units, others later, redbrick residential additions—are unusual even for Charoenkrung. The corner property where Jua will soon open was, until recently, an illegal casino. “There was a guy living there, running the games,” says Adkins. “They had to get the police to get him out about one year before we took it over. It was in disarray.”
OLD MEETS NEW For the best part of post-war Bangkok history, the neighborhood has been home to merchants, tailors’ factories, gem stores and street vendors who still make up the vast social mix of this part of Charoenkrung. Even now, when Tropic City opens for business at nightfall, it’s mirrored by the bright strobes of a tailoring facility, the workers at their sewing machines standing in total contrast to the cool young things swigging B350 pina coladas across the street. It lends drinking on Tropic City’s terrace the kind of under-the-radar, exciting edge that all the faux-secret bars in town would pay for. But it also raises the concern that, with the extra spending power and social cache that businesses like Tropic City bring to the neighborhood, might they risk driving out the old community vibe that made it feel so special in the first place? “I don’t think this area is in any danger of losing its atmosphere so long as we have the same goal: keeping good relations,” says Adkins. “I think the heritage of this area is so carved into it. If the prices go up then maybe this situation might change, but I don’t see that happening for
Chet Adkins
a long time. I get so surprised every time I come down here by how beautiful this area is, and how different from Sukhumvit.” Not everyone shares his optimism. Lee Anantawat, the founder of Speedy Grandma, says that, while in general the community has been welcoming of the recent openings, the rising costs that come with a gentrified area are beginning to rear their head. “There has started to be some problems here,” says Lee. “The landlord of one block of buildings is going to raise the rent drastically in one go. So it has been quite a shock for the people living there. The landlord was quite nasty about it, just said if you can’t pay then go away. So I’m not sure in terms of this creative district thing, this gentrification thing… how concerned are they really about the local people who’ve been living here for 30 years? The reason people want to move here is because this area has local communities. It won’t be the same if it’s just bars and shops. I hope TCDC [Thailand Creative & Design Center] can use its influence to somehow make the landlords more generous.”
fb.com/SpeedyGrandma
2014 SOY SAUCE
Since: Apr 2014 What: General exhibition space and dive bar. fb.com/soysaucebar
BRIDGE
Since: Aug 2014 What: Gallery and cafe with awesome rooftop in Ghost Tower’s shadow.
“I'm not sure in terms of this creative district thing... how concerned are they really about the local people who've been living here for 30 years?”
bridgebkk.com
SOULBAR
Since: Aug 2014 What: Live music venue. Talad Noi neighborhood’s first buzzing bar. fb.com/livesoulbar bangkok
2015 2ND YARD
Since: Nov 2015 What: Next-level sandwiches and craft beer. fb.com/2ndyard
80/20
Since: Nov 2015 What: Creative, local, produce-driven dining. fb.com/8020bkk
Luke Satoru
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Tailors opposite Tropic City
BK Magazine Friday, September 15, 2017
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ADVERTORIAL
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cover story Continued from page 6 >>
2016 BLACK PIG
Since: Mar 2016 What: Tattoo studio above Tropic City. fb.com/blackpigdesign
OUTLAW
Since: Dec 2016 What: Comforting, mostly Mediterranean dishes from a raw concrete space. TCDC
The relocation of TCDC, Bangkok’s foremost design library and creative resource center, from Sukhumvit to Charoenkrung is another of the neighborhood’s recent coups. Duangrit Bunnag, the architect behind five-star resorts nationwide and founder of the riverside’s other success story, Jam Factory, is not ignorant to the changes that TCDC and his latest project, Warehouse 30, will bring to the area. “We’ve been having a controversial conversation about that,” says Duangrit, in reaction to Lee’s concerns. “Cities change all the time. Local businesses are still here and doing quite well. Actually, food businesses will be better than before, thanks to more people and foot traffic coming to the district. It’s an organic, natural change.” Still, he tries not to be too sentimental about what he sees as inevitable, and not always worse, consequences for the area’s social fabric. “The city and world economy are always moving,” explains Duangrit. “We cannot keep everything the same. Community businesses also have to change themselves. The creative district idea is a polemic way to push them to be better. It’s not fair that people get kicked out and land prices get higher, but if that happens here, there is also opportunity; they can think from the domain of creativity and how they can fit in here.”
FOREIGN BODIES One of the major changes to fall on the neighborhood is the arrival of Western foreigners. There is no disguising the fact that expats are behind much of the entrepreneurial drive happening on Charoenkrung. While the Bangkok born-and-bred Duangrit may have implemented the big-budget projects like Warehouse 30 and TCDC, it’s largely Scandinavians, Americans, Australians, French and Spanish who are taking over the shop-houses. Lee sees this as purely economical. “I guess it’s the rent,” she says. “I think in general most Thai artists can’t afford to rent their own art studio here. They would rather live in their family house. Thinking about creating a business by themselves is even harder. And then, in terms of bigger businesses, Thai business people don’t like this kind of area—in an alleyway, no parking lot—it doesn’t suit their business model.” Among the first foreigners to spot the potential in Charoenkrung’s cheap rents and characterful shop-houses was French national Thomas Menard. Once a tenant (and still a partner) at
LITTLE MARKET
Since: Sep 2016 What: Coffee, brews and burgers on a quiet, traffic-free soi. fb.com/littlemarketbkk
FOOJOHN
Since: Dec 2016 What: Crepes and affordable, tasty plonk downstairs, chilled live music in the middle, and all-American barbecue up top. Soy Sauce Factory
Lee’s Speedy Grandma, he went on to open art space Soy Sauce Factory one block across, and has his hand in other Charoenkrung businesses from Jua to Soulbar. “In Thonglor, you can spend a lot of money on a place and in the first year things will be buzzing, you’ll make a lot of that back, but it’s hard to make it last,” Menard told us back in 2015, when he was just about to open Soy Sauce. “Here, rent and renovations can be cheaper, you can charge B200 for cocktails, not B300, but you have to be in it for the long haul. I have my team and we did all the renovations ourselves. Soy Sauce took about four months, but it’s very minimalist. The most expensive thing was adding air-con.” To Duangrit, the creative drive from Bangkok’s expat community fits in with a pattern of past Bangkok development. “People from the outside have a different perspective,” says the architect, in a speech that would feel at home on a Ted Talk stage. “Foreigners have the capacity to see an old building and think, wow that can be a bar. They’ve lived in a different context and haven’t seen this every day. If you track the commercial aspects in Thailand, it all started that way: foreigners starting something new and later Thais embracing the idea and deciding to develop it in their own way. It’s natural.” The community forming on the Chao Phraya’s eastern bank could not be more different from the big-scale, government-led changes to reinvent the Thonburi side of the river into the
“The city and world economy are always moving. We cannot keep everything the same. Community businesses also have to change”
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Duangrit Bunnag
Bangkok River Promenade. With 5,400 concrete pillars set to be pile-driven into the river to build what Duangrit describes as “an expressway for pedestrians,” the city has already lost the potential for riverside regeneration that the architect envisioned when he opened the Jam Factory. Over on the Charoenkrung side, however, things have the potential to keep developing at the pace they have been. With five-star hotels robbing the shop-houses of riverside views, and no MRT station earmarked for direct access to the neighborhood, big business has so far looked on the area with a consistent, “meh.” And while the occasional Seb or Chet might cause rents to rise, at least they don’t arrive in bulldozers.
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WAREHOUSE 30
Since: Aug 2017 What: Shopping, documentary screenings, cafes and workshops in a converted warehouse complex. fb.com/TheWarehouse30
LET THE GIRL KILL
Since: Jul 2017 What: The second-coming of Let the Boy Die, one of Bangkok’s first bars specializing in local brews. fb.com/Let.The.Girl.Kill
Charoenkrung Soi 28
TROPIC CITY
Since: Aug 2017 What: Rum-specializing cocktail bar. fb.com/tropiccitybkk
JUA
Since: Opens late-Sep 2017 What: Sake bar, upscale izakaya and art space. juabkk.com
Soulbar
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escapes ESCAPE ROUTES By Kankanok Wichiantanon and Siriya Suriyanon
CHIANG MAI
Garden Party Sitting amid a lush green landscape, Ironwood restaurant (592/1 Mae Rim-Samoeng Rd., Chaing Mai, 081-858-3555, www.fb.com/ironwoodmaerim) is the Chiang Mai ticket your Instagram was asking for this winter. Amid a triple-height, lightfilled space decked out in furnishings plucked from an English country garden, enjoy classic Thai cooking prepared in the charming outdoor kitchen. Lychee adds a sweet tang to Ironwood’s rich and spicy lamb panang, while the khao khlook gapi (shrimp paste-fried rice with sweet pork sauce) features the pretty addition of edible flowers. Just note that this is a day-out kind of place, sitting about 40 minutes by car from the city—but totally worth it.
Puggin’ Out Chiang Mai’s cozy new craft beer bar, The Yellow Pug (44/08 Second Ring Rd., Chiang Mai, 089559-8080, www.fb.com/theyellowpug) brings bottle-shop culture to the Northern capital. That means you can go up to the fridge and grab your own brew from the selection of 60-70 international craft beers (prices start at B150). They also have a few taps, mostly pouring strong-character American stuff. Don’t know where to start? Ask owner Nuttapol Onkwanmuang, the friendly Chiang Mai native who knows all about the rarest new arrivals. They also serve comfort dishes like Vienna sausage with potato fries (B120), grilled beef skewers (B140) and Hamburg steak (Beef, B170), and host the occasional live music night.
KOH CHANG
Bridging the Gulf Good news for anyone who wants to hop from Pattaya to Koh Chang. There’s now a new ferry service running from Chonburi directly to the Gulf of Thailand island in Trang province. With a journey time of three hours, the new service from Royal Passenger Liner Co., Ltd. (the same company who last year launched routes from Pattaya to Hua Hin) beats having to drive to Trang and hop on a ferry there. For those in Bangkok, though, we still reckon the old route is the way to go, with a four-hourforty-five-minute drive and half-hour ferry versus two-hour-forty drive and threehour ferry. They’ve been trialing the service since Aug 23 but they’ll launch properly this Oct with fare rates priced a little over B1,000 each way. Call 038-488-999 for more details.
PATTAYA
Good Vibes After the launch of a modern-retro villa in Chiang Mai, the Bangkok-based resort chain X2 is now moving to Pattaya. Or rather, Bann Am Por Beach, just south of Jomtien. The sleek-looking X2 Vibe Pattaya SeaPhere (www.x2pattayaseaphere.com) is actually composed of a group of luxury condo units, but they’re already plugging it as a resort as well, with nightly rates starting at B2,500. There are just 65 rooms in total, mixed between one- and two-bed studios, the biggest featuring private plunge pools. Not to miss is the hotel’s rooftop as it features an infinity pool, kids’ playground, sky deck and a garden bar and barbecue area. Bann Am Por Beach sits between the Pattaya Floating Market and Cartoon Network Amazone waterpark, about a half-hour drive south of town.
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avenue CYCLING
Live to Ride Japanese hipsters’ favourite bicycle brand, Tokyobike, has moved its Bangkok flagship store. Don’t panic—their new home, previously Vick’s Weekend, is still on Ari Soi 2, only a couple of meters down the street. This spot feels cozier than the last, perhaps because of its minute size. While Tokyobike models can now be found at retailers around town, this store is the only one to offer full bike servicing that includes lubrication, polish and wax (from B1,000). Plus, their stock of accessories such as bold-colored Sigg water flasks (B1,200-1,490) and Moonstar x Tokyobike sneakers (B5,200) are just the thing to complete that chill biker look. 1/5 Ari Soi 2, 02-117-1016. Open daily 11am-7pm
SALON
FASHION
SPA
Pampering Season
Bonjour Bangkok
Treat Yourself
If the persistent rain has left you in dire need of a revitalizing treatment or two, then Lavish Salon and Spa could be the answer. Inside a marble-clad room on the second floor of Sala Daeng’s Bandara Residence, a team of well-coiffed hair stylists offers cuts (from B700), perms (starting at B5,000) and special scalp detox treatments (B2,500) to give your ‘do that extra bit of zhoosh. Step further inside to the spa for a reasonably-priced array of massages and scrubs. Treat yourself to Lavish’s signature Indian head massage with warm coconut oil (B990) or the two-hour aromatherapy warm oil massage and herbal steam (B2,300). 2/F, Bandara Residence, 130 Saladaeng Soi 1, 02-636-1277. Open daily 9am-10pm
Known for its iconic Le Pliage bag and endless Alexa Chung endorsements, French leather goods maker Longchamp recently launched a new model it calls Mademoiselle. At B48,300 and in fine calfskin leather, the bag’s edgy perforated pattern and bulky clasp are sure to make a Parisian statement, even as you’re trotting down an explosive Sathorn footpath. The Mademoiselle bag comes in black, gray, warm cognac and sunny mimosa (let’s call it yellow), with a wide handle and a longer shoulder strap. Keep an eye out for the upcoming continental long wallet, also in the same style. G/F, Helix Quartier, EmQuartier, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-003-6166. Open 10am-8pm
Panpuri Organic Spa just opened a second Bangkok branch inside the newly built Park Hyatt Hotel. Unlike its spot in Gaysorn that flaunts a dark, Parisian-themed interior, this one has an airier, modernistic vibe. White furniture and sleek marble flooring are the backdrop to cutting-edge facilities: crystal steam rooms, saunas and “experience showers,” where relaxing acoustics blend harmoniously with rejuvenating aromas. But be prepared to pay a hefty price—the Panpuri Ultimate Indulgence treatment (foot massage, full body massage, facial, body wrap and scrub, 210 minutes) costs B9,800 and the Pan-vimarn Heavenly Touch of Paradise (150 minutes) is B6,800. 11/F, Park Hyatt 88 Wireless Rd., 02-012-1234. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 10am-10pm
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avenue FASHION
Name Dropping Five new Thai designers you need to know from Elle Fashion Week 2017. By Kasidit Srivilai
Everyday Karmakamet Sarran
Pitchana
Kanapot Aunsorn
Q Design and Play
A former designer at whimsical brand Disaya, Sarunrat Panchiracharoen is behind this playful streetwear line from local lifestyle behemoth Karmakamet. The "This Mission is too Important" collection takes inspiration from the classic sci-fi film 2001: A Space Odyssey, reflected in sportsslash-streetwear pieces with '70s-indebted silhouettes and colors. Our favorite piece: The doodle printshirt dress with oversized pletes—perfect for art exhibition opening night.
After unveiling her first collection in 2015, young blood designer Pitchana Ekkachai debuted at Elle Fashion Week with her "Glam Rock" collection inspired by '70s supermodel muse Jerry Hall. The collection still plays up to Bangkok's hi-so party girl stereotype but twists things with seductive body-revealing details, irregular open cut and glittery embroidery. Our favorite piece: The silver opencuts dress that shows off your beautiful legs.
After showing at BIFW spring/summer 2017 earlier this year, Kanapot Aunsorn, the Srinakharinwirot University fashion design graduate who won The Designer TV show for his thesis collection, took his "The Future is Now" concept to the Elle Fashion Week runway. Inspired by the sci-fi iflm Hidden Figures, the collection mostly plays with futuristic prints of astronauts and spaceships on oversized puffer coats, skirts and bodysuits. Our favorite piece: The printed puffer jacket that's perfect for your next trip to Bangkok Planetarium.
Menswear designer Prapat Somboonsit just launched the “Superfine” collection that plays around with layering in a seriously out-there way. Adopting '80s-style oversized silhouettes, the pieces also feature creative touches like vintage T-shirts for inlays and extra-long ties that reach beneath the belt. Our favorite piece: The edgy sweater that looks very much like two pieces in one.
The winner of Vogue Who's on Next 2016, and a recipient of Japan's Good Design and Thailand's DeMark awards, Sarran Youkongdee showcases ancient Thai art elements in his new accessories collection, "Sa-Thit," which puts the focus on gold, Thai flower crowns and royal-inspired designs. Our favorite piece: The headpiece that reminds us of Buddha's halo. www.sarranyoukongdee.com
www.everydaykmkm.com
www.pitchana.com
www.qdesignandplay.com
www.kanapotaunsorn.com
SHOPPING Three New Multilabel Stores Around Bangkok
SIAM: FAT KIDS STORE
EKKAMAI: FABLAB
SATHORN: CAMP WEEKDAYS
The owners of Hungry Bear pancake shop at Central Ladphrao present multi-label fashion from Insta-famous Thai designers in an all-yellow space. Expect casualwear and hipster-y accessories from the likes of tropical print-loving label Chamniii, minimal-slash-girly casualwear brand Papers and master of linenwear Ruthless Studio. You can also bank on affordable prices—everything costs from B200-B3,000.
Home to 35 young Thai designers from Facebook and Instagram, Fablab is a multilabel, one-stop destination for ladies seeking a wide selection that ranges from day-to-night looks to work outfits and accessories. This is their latest store and first standalone after three mall openings. Highlights include Calina’s sleeveless blazer (B1,200), Shameem’s pink sunglasses (B690) and Flecdart’s crossbody bag (B2,490).
Siam Square's Camp just branched out to its third location, Camp Weekdays, which sits on the ground floor of Sathorn's Empire Tower, right next to Tops Supermarket, and offers semi-formal and professional looks. You’ll find tons of clothing and accessories split into two sides—one for working women, the other for those who play safe in fashion. Think prices between B600-2,000.
Siam Square Soi 5, 089-134-4466. Open daily noon-9pm
126/43 Sukhumvit Soi 63 (Ekkamai), 094-323-3555. Open daily 10am-10pm
LG/F, Empire Tower, Sathorn Rd., 02-252-2334. Open Mon-Fri 11am-8pm
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bites & blends
RESTAURANT
Little Urchin The latest addition to Opus on Thonglor Soi 10 is all about uni (sea urchin) and other seafood. Sea Truffles made its name providing the sweet little ocean delicacies to some of the best spots in town, but has now branched into its own counter at the mall’s Commons-esque Foodtopia restaurant community. The selection of fresh Irish oysters (B150/piece), cobia from Phuket (B290) and steamed Maine lobster (market price) are all a testament to Sea Truffle’s experience in premium seafood. Want the full uni experience? Try the bafun uni udon in (broth Japanese with dried kelp and bonito fish flakes) and cream sauce, served with whole sea urchin roe and salmon roe (B499). Opus Building, Thonglor Soi 10, 081-6944186. Open daily 5pm-11pm
RESTAURANT
BAR
CAFE
Picture Perfect
In the Red
House of Plenty
After a few months of downtime, Gastro 1/6, the charming backyard adjoining the gallery of photographer Piyatat Hemmatat, is back in business complete with a new menu devised by Bo.lan's Bo Songvasiva. Make a note for when the cooler months arrive to go try her sunny, Arabian-influenced menu that makes use of local, sustainably caught fish and Royal Projects produce. The smoked barracuda comes in a dressing of herb yogurt with baby cucumber (B295), while the baba ganoush (an Arabic eggplant dip) with hazelnut dukkha and flatbread (B220) is pure summer fare. It still shares the same, relaxing yard space with RMA Institute, which is now running an exhibition by Korean photographer Yong Hwan Lee till the end of Sep. 238 Soi Sai Namthip, Sukhumvit Rd., 080-603-6421. Open Tue-Sun 8:30am-5pm
Inconspicuously nestled amid the bustle of Chinatown, Rabbit Hill celebrates Asian drinking culture. The Hong Kong craft beer Moonzen (B250/half pint; B340/pint) is the most popular choice, but a wide selection of Japanese sakes (such as Bjofu Junrei Junmai Ginjo sake at B2,700/1.8L) and whiskeys (Suntory Kakubin whiskey at B120/glass; B1,200/bottle) are also available to get you sozzled before stumbling over to Soi Nana. Chow down on Chinese-style bar snacks like paper-wrapped, deep-fried chicken (B180) and cold jelly pork knuckle (B100) amid bright red decor. 1 Suntipharp Rd., 092-646-6636. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight
The transformation of an old riverside publishing facility into Yelo House isn’t just about art and design. The space is also home to one of Siam’s best new cafes as well as a cute little eatery. Popular Sukhumvit cafe Hands & Heart manages Hungry Me restaurant, offering fusion bites like deep-fried pork belly (B130), while Thirsty You specializes in teas and coffees. The Aussie-style iced coffee (hot latte with vanilla ice cream at B140) is devilishly good, while the iced raspberry oolong tea (B80) is a lighter alternative. Filtered coffee, beer and breakfast are also coming soon. 20/2 Kasemsan Soi 1, Rama 1 Rd., Tel 081-448-4604. Open Tue-Sun 11am-8pm. BTS National Stadium
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blends
Teens of Thailand
TRENDS
Still Thirsty While police are busy cracking down on online alcohol promotions (see box, below), here are the seven best new reasons to drink in Bangkok. By Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj
Charoenkrung’s new wave of bars Since the bloom of Chinatown (Teens of Thailand, Tep Bar, El Chiringuito), Charoenkrung Road has also come alive at night. And things are only just heating up. Check out our cover story (page 4-8) for a low-down on all that’s happening.
The totally lit nightclubs and bars Forget all those glammed-up clubs playing moody techno; Bangkok’s party scene is undergoing a neon revolution. From the second floor of Badmotel, Blaq Lyte (2/F, Badmotel, 331/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 55 [Thonglor], 098-253-9356) pumps out Drake and Kendrick Lamar beats to a crowd of millennials decked out head-to-toe in on-point sportswear. Over in Chatuchak, Trailer Trash Blue Eyes (3/15 Viphavadi Rangsit Soi 36, 086-996-0095) takes things down a notch to recall a teenage bedroom circa 1987. Bad-era Michael Jackson peers at you from one wall, while the soundtrack covers synth-heavy sounds from the ‘80s. Forget fancy cocktails—it’s all about bottles of Leo beer (B90), here. Things are even weirder at Lad Phrao’s Bad Taste Cafe (24/36 Lad Phrao Soi 21, 094-2903299), a house of beers that doubles as a garish museum of internet memes and surreal video clips looping over and over.
Awesome booze at retail prices The city’s newest bottleshops double as bars, meaning you can pull up a stool and enjoy some of the best drink prices in town. Leading the charge is Bottles of Booze (178 Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-043-9085), the Sathorn spin-off of Sukhumvit Soi 34’s Bottles of Beer, which stocks an array of craft beers and spirits from around the world. There’s also Orihara Shoten (Park Lane, Sukhumvit Soi 63 [Ekkamai], 02-382-0131), a collaboration between Japanese sake exporters Orihara and local booze
Orihara Shoten
Tropic City
distributors BB&B that stocks over 80 labels of sake to have in or take out. For wine, try Warp (Market Place, Thonglor Soi 4, 065513-8399), which offers some delicious and affordable Champagne (B1,900 for a niche, growers’ label like Goutorbe-Bouillot Brut Rose), as well as indoor and outdoor seating—management even promise they’ll stay open as late as you and your crew want to carry on drinking.
(who worked as a mixologist at New York’s acclaimed Angel’s Share) pours a monthly rotating cocktail menu that spotlights local ingredients plucked from the fresh market. The third new speakeasy, Thaipioka (Salil Hotel, Thonglor Soi 1), is so new the drinks menu isn’t finished yet—but it’s from the guys behind Sugar Ray and Q&A, so you can rest assured it’s good.
More gin than ever before Back in 2015, Teens of Thailand (76 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd., 081-443-3784) arrived on Soi Nana to give Bangkok the singularly-focused gin bar it didn’t even know it needed. In newcomer Just a Drink (Maybe) (44/3 Thonglor Soi 1, 02-023-7285), TOT might now have a rival for the biggest selection of the juniper-based white spirit. Here, you’ll find over 100 gin labels spanning big names and artisanal distilleries like Gin Mare, G’vine and Martin Miller’s dry gin, as well premium tonics, all served up in an easygoing, residential setting. G&T, anyone?
Next-level speakeasies This year sees not one, not two, but three new entries to the city’s list of “secret” bars. Hidden away behind a wall of grungy looking lockers, Locker Room (JIA Thonglor 10, 225/15 Thonglor Soi 10, 092-895-3689) showcases some of Asia’s top mixology talents. Backstage Bar’s Neung Kanivichaporn joins forces with Hidetsugo Ueno from Bar High Five in Tokyo, Colin Chia from Nutmeg & Clover and Nick Wu from East End in Taipei to serve drinks that push classics to new extremes. Try one of their Bloodless Marias (B390), a clear martini-like drink that uses mezcal and tomato sous-vide vermouth. In the Old Town, a dusty concrete staircase leads the way to Ku Bar (3/F, 469 Phra Sumen Rd., 02-067-6731), a marble counter amid a decrepit room where Anupas “Kong” Premanuwat
Craft beer festivals galore Despite the obvious ongoing legal challenges, Bangkok’s craft beer scene keeps going from strength to strength. The big guns have taken notice, too, with Singha helping to bankroll the Bangkok Beer Fest at Oasis Outdoor Arena earlier this month. Good news is there are more festivals and meetups in the pipeline, starting with Geek Out Craft Beer Festival on Sep 30 at Quaint (23 Sukhumvit Soi 61, 02-714-1998), where seven of the coolest importers—Smiling Mad Dog, Hopsession, Pacific B&B, Drinkable, Amber Spot, Captain Barrel and Beervana—will show off their new, rare and unusual beers. Fast-forward to November and there are two more events to look forward to: The Great Thai Beer Festival, organized by Changwon Express in collaboration with Flow House on Nov 17-19, and the second edition of Smiling Mad Dog’s Thailand Brew Festival on Nov 24-25.
Rum is having a moment The city’s first Rum Cocktail Week took over 16 bars in mid-August, and it looks like we’ll be getting a lot more of the spirit in the coming months. Firstly, Tropic City will bring its Tiki-inspired concoctions to Charoenkrung. Then, Niks Anuman of Teens of Thailand will lift the lid on his latest project, Asia Today, which will also be rum-oriented. It’s set to open opposite of Teens of Thailand by the end of Sep.
NEWS How the Alcohol Control Act affects your social media game In July, police announced they would be monitoring social media to stamp out posts from business owners, celebrities and any member of the public that encourage alcohol use. This renewed e nfo rce m e nt i s b a c ke d by a 2008 law that bans any act that “induces” others to drink. Violation of the notorious law carries a fine of B50,000 for first-time offenders.
But there is at least some good news. At least the following social media crimes are actually punishable by law: 1) Bird’s- eye photos of your French oysters and Champagne glasses during brunch, captioned “Sunday is the new Friday.”
3) Photos of insanely expensive whiskey collection with the caption “decisions decisions.” 4) #yolo buckets filled with 50 straws on Koh Phangan.
2) You, behind the bar, pouring drinks while the bartender looks on in fear at all the Bulleit Rye you’re wasting.
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bites COFFEE
New Brews You Need to Try
Eats Payao
Chata
RESTAURANTS
Greatest Hits
103 BED AND BREWS Top pick: Som jeed cold brew tonic This polished Soi Nana newcomer comes packed with vintage Chinese charm. Colorful abstract paintings line the walls while the coffee list goes beyond espresso to creative cold brew options like one spiked with som-jeed orange syrup (kumquat) and tonic water (B100). Refreshing!
It’s been a bumper few months for new Thai restaurants showcasing flavors from all over the country. Here are our picks. By Wanvida Jiralertpaiboon Baannual
Baannual Best for: Home-style recipes and photo ops to match It may look a little rough around the edges, but this Thai restaurant situated beneath an antique wooden house comes brimming with exciting flavors. Baannual paints a quaint picture of life in Samsen, offering only two tables set amid decorative flower arrangements, rattan birdcages and a soundtrack that mixes old Thai songs of the ‘70s and ‘80s with the crowing of nearby roosters. The owners seek out their ingredients at Trok Mor Market each morning to whip up home-style family recipes: moo pad kapi (stir-fried pork neck with shrimp paste from Chumporn, B100) and yum dokkajorn (Thai-style cowslip creeper salad with minced pork, shrimp and boiled coconut cream, B150). 372 Samsen Soi 2, 081-889-7403. Open Tue-Fri noon-9pm; Sat-Sun 4-9pm
Eats Payao Best for: Phayao recipes and drinking This bright-pink Nang Linchi shop-house whips up traditional recipes from Phayao province with the occasional premium ingredient or fusion flourish. Signage boldly proclaims this to be the home of “the best khao soi in town” and the headliner of rich and flavorful Northern-style curry noodles (available with chicken, beef, crabmeat, B80/120/280) isn’t far off that. Other mainstays include nam prik noom (green young chili dip, B100), and the delicious gaeng hang lay (spicy pork belly curry, B120). 95/3 Nang Linchi Rd., 094-303-5833. Open daily 11:30am-11pm
Faiz’s Best for: No-frills Thai feasts Taking over a Thonglor shop-house with pillow-strewn couches and billowing fabrics, this cozy nook of a restaurant does straight-up Thai comfort food (along with the odd fusion pasta). Sharing dishes like gaeng tai pla (Southern-style curry with fermented fish entrails, B160), while the kai palo (pork and egg stew, B160) comes in a wellrounded and nicely spiced brown sauce. 63 Sukumvit Soi 53, 086-811-1191. Open daily 11:30am-10pm. BTS Thong Lo
Kaprao Khun Phor Best for: Pad kaprao This Silom diner serves more varieties of pad kaprao than you could dream of. In fact, the menu does nothing but spicy basil stir-fries (15 types in all), though they shake things up with premium ingredients, whether it’s minced kurobuta pork in the kao kaprao moo sub (B79) or Company B’s dry-aged Australian beef in the kao kaprao nuea (B129). Silom Soi 20, 065-509- 9693. Open Mon-Sat 11am-8:30pm. BTS Chong Nonsi
Krua Banleng Best for: Nostalgic vibes The Phaya Thai restaurant belonging to the family of classical music legend Luang Pradit Phairoh has brought its comfort food to Silom-
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Sathorn. The cozy two-story house gives nods to family history through traditional Thai musical instruments and black-and-white photos from Luang’s hey-day. The recipes spotlight familiar fare like pad Thai goong sod (stir-fried rice noodles with shrimp, B280) and moo ped sood khun yar (stir-fried pork with turnip pickles and young green peppercorns, B160). 163/2 Narathiwat Rajanagarindra Soi 5, 063-184-7928. Open 11am-10pm. BTS Chong Nonsi
Kruajiangmai Best for: Authentic Northern flavors Originally a delivery service, Kruajiangmai serves Northern Thai food made using ingredients the Chiang Mai-native owner sources directly from the North. These she turns into delicious staples like the intense khao soi gai (B95), nam prik noom (green chili relish, B120) and gaeng hang lay with pork knuckle (B150). You’ll also find some rarer dishes like khao ngiao (steamed rice with pork blood and herbs in banana leaf, B55). Thonglor Soi 7-9. 099-196-2464. Open Tue-Sun 11am-11pm. BTS Thong Lo
Na Chalong Best for: Southern food in a beautiful setting What was once the stately setting of R.E. 234 on Sukhumvit Soi 24 is now Na Chalong, which promises real-deal Southern Thai food made almost entirely from ingredients sourced from that region. Menu highlights include gaeng som pla gudsalard (yellow curry with red-banded grouper and catfish roe, B690), whose tangy curry paste is said to be a mix of Pangnga and Songkhla styles, gai rod kamin (fried marinated chicken thigh with turmeric, B200) and pad sam kler (stir-fried glass vermicelli with garlic, sataw and climbing wattle, B200). The Rama V-inspired house’s high ceilings and grand central bar remain, though the new owners have taken a more European direction with decor. 45 Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-117-2829. Open Mon-Fri 11am-12am; Sat-Sun and public holiday 8am-12am. BTS Phrom Phong
Yoong Kao Hom Best for: Slightly sweeter Southern specialties Koh Samui’s two-decade-old Southern dining institution has arrived in the capital. This mall spot promises the same tried-and-trusted family recipes, as well as produce like kapi (shrimp paste) and curry paste flown in straight from the island. Try their highly-touted moo pad kapi (stir-fried kurobuta pork with shrimp paste and a heady mix of sliced shallots, lime and bird’s eye chilies, B180) or goong pad kapi sataw (stir-fried prawns with bitter bean, B180) for a mellower take on Southern cooking. Do also leave room for the khua kling (minced pork fried in spicy paste with turmeric, B150). I’m Park, 355 Chula Soi 5, 063-465-6565. Open daily 11am-10:30pm
103 Maitri Chit Rd., 02-090-1103. Open daily 9am-22pm. www.fb.com/103BKK
CHATA Top Pick: Colapresso This gorgeous glasshouse extension to Yaowarat’s colonial-style Baan2459 hotel is swathed in natural light. Beans come from all over—try the house-blend (Thai, Indonesian, Ethiopian and Brazilian) dressed up with lime and bubbly cola in the Colapresso (B140). 98 Padsai Rd., Samphanthawong 084-6252324. Open daily 7am-15pm. www.fb.com/ chataspecialtycoffee
SIZE S Top Pick: Latte Float Sathorn’s teeny-tiny cafe has upsized to Sukhumvit, where it offers a larger savory menu. You can expect the same awesome house-roasted coffee in concoctions like Latte Float (B110), a light-medium roast espresso shot served over their own vanilla ice cream. If you’re lucky you can also try filtered coffee (start at B85) by Tejit Sintawichai, recent winner of the Thailand AeroPress Championship 2017. 5/23, Soi Ngam du phli, Rama4 Rd., 02-2866117. Open daily 7:30am-18pm. www. fb.com/sizescafe
THE COFFEE ROASTER BY LI-BRA-RY Top Pick: Espresso Tonic Li-bra-ry’s sixth outlet sits under the roof of Warehouse 30, Charoenkrung’s buzzing new art and design complex. Espresso made from Ceresia’s Thai-Brazil roast is put to great use in the Espresso Tonic (B150) that comes with crisp, citrus notes. Warehouse 30, Charoen Krung Rd., Open daily 11am-9pm. www.fb.com/librarycafe
YELO HOUSE Top Pick: Aussie-style Iced Coffee The Hands and Heart team man the Thirsty You beverage counter at this new co-working space next to Sansaeb Canal. Do try their Doi Saked and Mae Khachan blend from Chiang Mai, which results in an oh-so-smooth latte when served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream (B140) 20/2 Kasemsan Soi 1, Rama1 Rd., 081-4484604. www.yelohouse.com
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FOOD REVIEWS
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SERINA TEPPANYAKI JAPANESE DINING
Canvas HHHH International. 113/9-10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 099-614-1158. Open Sun-Thu 6pm-midnight; Fri-Sat 6-12:30am. Corkage B1,000 (wine), B1,500 (sparkling). BBBB F
Canvas belongs to a small but headline-grabbing contingent of new Bangkok restaurants that define where Thai produce dining is at right now. Like Gaa and 80/20, it champions its devotion to local ingredients while happily straying outside any nationalistic flavor definitions. It does this with more flash and sense of occasion than just about anywhere except the big fine-dining players. Opulence abounds in its shimmering copper bar and gloved wait staff rubbing fingerprints off glasses. Arrive and within moments every employee in the house will be addressing you by name. It’s an approach that’s as polished as the plates of food, each fawned over in immaculate detail from behind that chef’s table-style counter (our favorite place to sit, though there are some private tables as well). Inevitably, some of the spectacle gets let down by the flavor. A salad of market vegetables (B340), for example, worthy of freezing for posterity in its beautiful
About Eatery HHHH Mediterranean. G/F, Ocean Tower 2, Sukhumvit Soi 21 Soi 3, 02-665-2772. Open Mon-Thu 1 1 :3 0 a m -2 : 3 0 p m , 5: 30 -11p m; Fr i -S at 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-midnight, Sun 5:3011pm. Corkage B400. BBB F
About Eatery calls itself Bangkok’s first “natural” wine bar. That means it offers only organic, biodynamic and sustainable producers, to go with a Mediterranean menu that puts similar stock in wellsourced ingredients. This dedication recalls El Mercado or Quince—warm, bustling places where good produce and drinks take precedence over kitchen wizardry—and About deserves mentioning in such hallowed company. It’s not just platters of cold cuts and cheeses (from B450); there are also tons of vegetarian, vegan and even raw vegan options. Amid rustic woods and brickwork, incredibly detailed chalkboards display wine pairing tips, oyster specials and customizable dietary options (upgrade your pasta with spelt flour egg pappardelle for B40, or edamame noodles for B100). The menu leaves you with little doubt you’re eating the good stuff: a namedrop of Sloane’s here, D.O.P. cheese there, umpteen men-
appearance, loses its fresh, piquant charm under a rather slimy dressing. A dish of pigeon (B1,400) accompanied by shallot cups holding different sauces has us wishing it came with just a single good jus—as well as better rested meat. But these are quibbles. In young, Texas-hailing chef Riley Sanders, Canvas has found a head man who’s also capable of delivering inventive dishes which pack powerful originality. His gluten-free shrimp noodles (B360) are dressed in one of the most intensely flavorful seafood sauces we’ve encountered, their kaffir lime and a gentle dose of chili providing a familiar yet totally unique local kick. The crayfish (B440), charred with heady wood-fired notes, plays a similar local-flavor card in its dressing of lime-and-basil foam. And then there’s the complimentary purple-yam bread basket that, with its dipping of pig’s lard, lemon and candied pork floss, manages to be one of the meal’s absolute high points. Dining at Canvas will not be easy on your wallet. Their small plates (which is everything mentioned above, except for the pigeon) are measured in increments of 40 and 50 grams—no small cause of consternation among many diners. To avoid any sharp surprises, come expecting to pay about B3,000 a head. At that price, you’ll get a meal that stands up against most fancy fine-dining tasting menus, as well as a couple of awesome, spirit-forward cocktails (B320-400) from the team at Rabbit Hole—who happen to be the owners here, too.
C
M
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CM
MY
CY
CMY
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Yaki soba. 450THB
Hiroshima Oyster fry 280THB
Chicken Steak. 380THB
This over-30-year-old Japanese restaurant is Silom’s best kept secret. Old Japanese recipes are alive here with beautiful local produce and imported meat, shining honestly on your plates. At B2,250 per set, you’ll get 150g of teppanyaki Kobe wagyu accompanied by fresh sashimi, salad, soup, grilled vegetable, garlic rice and a scoop of homemade fresh strawberry sorbet. Or get same set with 150g US Black Angus beef at B1,650. SERINA, 9/26 Surawong Soi Jim Thompson, Bangkok, Thailand
Reservation: 02-235-8382
tions of “organic.” When everything comes together, the results are delicious, as in the goat cheese and wild arugula salad (B280), bursting with the mild sweetness of melon, blueberries and sundried tomatoes. The calamari fritti (with aioli, B280) spotlights super-fresh squid, even if the flouring is a little soft and squishy. If we had any real complaint on our last visit it would be that our paccheri pasta with diced octopus, nduja and pecorino cheese (B580) was just so salty we resorted to wringing out the calamari’s lemon wedge to take the edge off. Otherwise, the pasta was perfectly al dente and the sausage packed a spicy kick. Better rounded is the tender smoked organic chicken (B590), sourced from Korat, whose woody notes are complemented by chorizo crumble and an amazing bacon-potato terrine. While the food’s good and all, the drinks are arguably the main draw. The wine list (from B250/ glass) covers sparkling, red, white, rose and what’s called “orange wine” (white wine made using the same method as red wine), with icons indicating each wine’s viniculture, aging process and whether it’s suitable for vegetarians and vegans. Slightly bitter on first taste, the Cos Pithos Bianco orange wine (B330/ glass) from Sicilia wins us over with its full-bodied texture and complex, slightly savory notes. In keeping with the current bar-slash-bottleshop trend sweeping town, wine can be ordered to go, too. It’s clear the people behind About Eatery care a lot about what they’re doing, and it’s infectious.
Ratings
Price guide
PPPP Forget it PPPP Only if you’re in the neighborhood PPPP A pleasant dining experience PPPP Not to be missed
B BB BBB BBBB
BK pays for its meal and does not call ahead or sit with the chef.
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Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.
Symbols
H Reservations recommended F Parking available E Dress requirements G Live music
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OPEN DOOR
Cuisine de Garden
This Chiang Mai-hailing restaurant takes food and design cues from nature.
The buzz: The space on Ekkamai Soi 2 previously belonging to Toot Yung and Pandora Art galleries is now home to an offshoot of Chiang Mai’s nature-inspired restaurant Cuisine de Garden. Here, chef and co-owner Leelawat "Nan" Mankongtiphan serves only a six-course dinner menu that’s brimming with molecular touches. The decor: Actual tree trunks punctuate the dining room's darkwood flooring and raw concrete walls, as designed by architect co-owner Sorakit "Mon" Kitcharoenroj (of Integrated Field). The jungle-chic setting also extends to firefly-like string lighting and black-pebble flooring in front of the bar. A picture-perfect backyard sits under the shade of a giant tree.
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The menu: Chang Mai-hailing chef Nan's six-course set dinner (B1,590) plays with various forms and textures of ingredients. Expect starters like a seafood amuse-bouche that sees kaffir lime turned into emulsions, foams and chutneys, and Hokkaido scallops paired with chayote (a mildly sweet relation to cucumber), ponzu sauce and red kelp. Mains are even more delicate and photogenic, like a slowcooked egg atop golden-crisp nest-like rice vermicelli mixed with chicken, porcini and truffle oil. Dessert lets you choose between a very light panna cotta made from goat’s milk that’s served with milk snow, dehydrated milk chips and macademia honey or a stone-shaped chocolate filled with tamarind sauce and roselle sauce.
The drinks: Wine is the name of the game with a selection from both old and new world producers—a bottle of 2015 Ronan Blanc by Clinet or of 2014 Maggio California Cabernet Sauvignon will each set you back B1,450. Wine pairing courses will be available soon, too. Why we’d come back: The tranquil yet exotic space is a fine match for chef Nan’s detailed creations. If you’re committed to a six-course meal, the price is right, too. Kasidit Srivilai Ekkamai Soi 2, 061-626-2816. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-11pm
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Nutrichef
The Library
Captain Crab
TABLE TALK
NEW AND NOTED
Claws Out This new delivery service specializes in marinated egg crabs (as in, female crabs carrying eggs). Captain Crab (www.fb.com/captaincrab.bkk) imports them daily from Nakhon Si Thammarat, then marinates them in a spicy Thai-style sauce. It’s all about deliciously fresh seafood—absolutely no MSG or preservatives. Simply choose between two sizes: size M (four crabs per kilo, B380/kg) or size L (three crabs per kilo, B480kg). Crabs with no eggs will also be available to order soon. Ordering a day in advance is necessary.
Eat Clean The former head chef at Charcoal, Deepanker Khoslar, has transformed into Bangkok’s new wellness guru. His project Nutrichef (nutrichef.dk) designs different meal programs in order to help city-dwellers eat healthier and improve their lifestyles. The programs are categorized by their
dietary goal (Nutribulk, Nutricleanse, Nutrilean and so on) and prices start at B1,125 for a three-day package. He then uses locally-sourced produce to create balanced meals such as pork tenderloin with yellow lentil mash or protein pancakes made from cacao nibs, the raw form of chocolate. Check out the daily-changing menu at his website.
Read on Things Though J’aime, the offshoot of a two-Michelin-star restaurant in central France, usually steals all the headlines, U Sathorn hotel actually has another dining room. The Library (U Sathorn, 105, 105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli, Sathorn Rd., 02-119-4888) is a more casual (and affordable) spot that’s all about simple, well-made classics. Executive chef Chatree Wongsriphaisan has just launched its new menu, too, featuring smoked tuna with fresh greens (B350), barramundi en papillote coated with crushed pistachio (B490) and coconut parfait (B280). Wanvida Jiralertpaiboon
Sushi Masa Siam Sawana Hotel,359/1 Phaya Nak Rd., 083-701-7627. Open Mon-Thu 10:30am-10pm; Fri-Sun 10:30am-11pm. BTS Ratchatewi. Other branches: Thonglor, 02-185-3800; Ruamrudee, 02-168-5214 Some bloggers were calling it the best sushi in Bangkok when it opened. That may no longer be true, but thanks to very reasonable prices you still often need to wait to snag a seat here. Unlike the stiff, sullen operations in other Japanese enclaves, here you’ll find relaxed staff and cheerful chefs serving huge chunks of fish literally drooping over the sides of the rice. As well as cheap sets you can also get high-end offerings of fatty tuna belly and Matsusaka beef. Exclusively for Citi credit card members. Get 5% discount on food only Today – 30 Apr 18
and Korapon Kanchanabundhu
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FRI Chain Reaction American DJs/music producers The Chainsmokers are the guys who’ve been soundtracking your every gym session for the last year (“baby hold me closer in the back seat of your Rover” sound familiar?). They’re also in Bangkok this Sep 15 for a concert that is set to be one of the year’s biggest—at Impact, of course. See page 23.
SAT Rock the Cabana Cedric Steinmyller, the French DJ better known as Klingande, will find himself in fitting surrounds when he drops by Bangkok this Sep 16. The producer will take his sax-laden, “tropical house” tracks like “Jubel” to Siwilai City Club’s fifth-floor, outdoor terrace decked out in giant tiedye daybeds and hammocks. See page 24.
FRI Freshly Squeezed Vincent Fenton is the man behind the French house beats of stage name FKJ. The multi-instrumentalist and singer will be at ZEN dropping his groovy loops, hip-hop rhythms and funky basslines this Sep 15 in a bid to promote his new album, French Kiwi Juice. See page 23.
NIGHTLIFE NO RICE NO LIFE
Independent record label More Rice showcases talents from around the world including Filipino band Tarsius, Swiss DJ Manuel Fischer and the usual crew made up of DJs DOTT, Sarayu and Mikail. Sep 15, 9pm. Studio Lam, Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661. Free. BTS Thong Lo. NARAM A-Katanyu
Jennie Panhan
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New Zealander reggae DJ Naram fills the room with his signature futuristic and dark dancehall beats supported by Woken, K9 and Dragon. Sep 16, 9pm. Studio Lam, Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661. B250. BTS Thong Lo.
SPECIAL SUNDAY GAY NIGHT THEME KYLIE MINOGUE
A Kylie Minogue extravaganza promising remixes of her new and old songs by resident DJs Yui and Steve, along with drag performances by Pangina Heals and her crew. Sep 17, 7pm. Maggie Choo's, underground/F, Hotel Novotel Bangkok Fenix Silom, 320 Silom Rd., 091-7722144. B500. BTS Surasak. MUTATION POET
A party combining poetry reading and underground music. Sep 17, 7pm. Jam, 41 Charoen Rat Soi 1, 083-5451833. B200. BTS Surasak.
NINETEENS UP X MMM
HOOD PARADISE VOL. 17
Silom bar Nineteens Up teams up with Method to My Madness for an outside party that wants you to chill out in your comfortable loungewear. Sep 16, 9pm. Nineteens Up, Silom Soi 19, 096-649-6919. B150. BTS Surasak.
A late night of authentic hip hop from DJs Nat, C.untagious and Younggu. Sep 19, 8pm. Blaq Lyte, 2/F, Badmotel, 331/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 098-253-9356. Free. THE RETURN OF LICKERLAND
This contest calls on dancers to form
teams to battle and show off their skills, with prizes TBA. Message bit. ly/2eB96RK to register. Sep 21, 7pm. Game Over, Liberty Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-170-7684. B200. THE GODFATHER RATED X
The bar known for supporting the Thai craft beer scene throws a mafia-themed party introducing a new brew by X-Beer brewery. Sep 22, 6pm. Where Do We Go, Ladprao Wanghin, 094-548-2326. Free. BREAKING BAD PARTY
The Latin American bar transforms itself into a laboratory with another themed party based on the cult tv series Breaking Bad. Sep 22, 7pm. Revolucion Cocktail, 50 Sathorn Soi 10. Free. BTS Chong Nonsi. LIVE SWINGING PIANO TRIO JAZZ
A piano, bass and drum trio perform till late. Sep 23, 9pm. Le Cafe des Stagiaires, 142/21 Sathorn Soi 12, 081-207-3077. Free. BTS Chong Nonsi.
A-KATANYU THE MAN WHO STANDS UP
One of the few Thai stand-up comedians, A-Katanyu, presents hisvv first major show. Sep 22-23, 8pm. Siam Square One, Rama 1 Rd. B5001,800. BTS Siam. TRASHER PARTY
The city's gay-friendly party organizer returns for another night full of dancing and singing with special guest, luk thung singer Yui Yardyer. Sep 23, 8pm. Muang Thai GMM Live House, 8/F, CentralWorld, 999/1 Rama 1 Rd. B500. BTS Chit Lom. LEGENDS OF BANGKOK
A tribute night to the city's longest running house and EDM venues with DJ Tong and percussionist Num, accompanied by the live band Chai Blues. Sep 23, 9pm. Maggie Choo's, underground/F, Hotel Novotel Bangkok Fenix Silom, 320 Silom Rd., 091772-2144. Free. BTS Surasak.
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CONCERT
One Republic
Lucy Rose
Nam Joo Hyuk
THE CHAINSMOKERS LIVE
WHITE CASTLE MUSIC FESTIVAL
The American DJs/music producers known for their 2016 hit "Closer" make a stop as part of their 'Memories Asia Tour 2017'. Tickets at Thaiticketmajor. com. Sep 15, 8pm. Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular Rd., 02833-4455. B2,000-3,000.
This progressive house music festival promises international DJs like Cartel from the UK, Marnik from Italy, HOLL&RUSH and Jaggs from Holland. Sep 22, 6pm. Centerpoint Studio Thailand, 9, 11 Sukhumvit Soi 105, 02-361-9229. B1,500-30,000.
FKJ
LUCY ROSE
The Parisian electro DJ returns for another live performance of his signature groovy loops, hip-hop rhythms and funky basslines. Sep 15, 9pm. Zen Event Gallery, 8/F, CentralWorld, 4, 4/5 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-100-9999. B1,290. BTS Chit Lom.
The British singer-songwriter performs songs from her new album Something's Changing accompanied by the artist's short documentary on the rooftop of Heaven at ZEN. Sep 22, 9pm. CentralWorld, 4, 4/1-4/2, 4/4, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-635-1111. B750.
NAM JOO HYUK PRIVATE STAGE
LIFE IN COLOR
The South Korean actor known for his role in the hit series Weightlifting Fairy Kim Bok Joo is back for another intimate meet and greet with fans. Sep 16, 6pm. MCC Hall The Mall Bangkapi, 3522 Lad Phrao Rd., 02-173-1000. B2,000-5,500.
The "world's largest paint party" makes its Thailand debut with massive EDM DJs like Bassjackers, Andrew Rayel, Party Thieves, Technoboy, Wasted Penguinz, Ape Drums and Bonnie X Clyde. Sep 23, 4pm. Centerpoint Studio Thailand, 9, 11 Sukhumvit Soi 105, 02-361-9229. B2,200-4,000.
ONE REPUBLIC
The American pop-rock band brings hits like "Apologize," "All the Right Moves" and "Counting Stars" to perform at its first live show in Thailand. Sep 21, 8:30pm. Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular Rd., 02-833-4455. B2,000-5,000.
CLASSICAL AFTERNOON CLASSICS WITH SIAM SINFONIETTA
Wind down the weekend at the Music Hall with a session of classical music by the Siam Sinfonietta and Calliope Chamber Choir. Sep 17, 4pm. Chulalongkorn University, 254 Phaya Thai Rd., 02-2150871/-3. Free.
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Candidates should be fluent in both Thai and English. Send your resume and a cover letter to jobs@asia-city.co.th
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BK Now_707_Sep15_17_new.indd 19
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STAGE Bangkok's International Festival of Dance & Music 2017
Torera
Spartacus
Mattnimare
CATERINA PALAZZI AND SODUKU KILLER
The Italian band and recipients of the 2010 Jazzit Award perform their unique jazz compositions. Sep 15, 8pm. Bamboo Bar, 1/F, Mandarin Oriental, 48 Charoen Krung Soi 40 (Oriental Avenue), 02-659-9000. Free. BTS Saphan Taksin. PAUSE
After a 17-year hiatus, the Thai indie-rock band plays old and new songs including recent single "Rak Yu Rob Gai" (Love is All Around). Sep 16, 4pm. Zen Event Gallery, 8/F, CentralWorld, 4, 4/5 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-100-9999. Free. BTS Chit Lom. THE BANGKOK BEATLES
A tribute act to one of the world's greatest bands, The Brillant Bangkok Beatles return to play a full set of hits. Sep 16, 7pm. Black Pagoda, Patpong Soi 2. 200 includes a free drink. BTS Sala Daeng. KLINGANDE
The Swedish melodic house DJ returns to Bangkok after 3 years. He's best for his hit song "Jubel," which has reached over 100 million views on Youtube. Support from DJ YP. Sep 16, 8pm. Siwilai City Club, 5/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-1605631. B990.
T LT P RE SE N TS R EO R D ER L I V E I N BANGKOK
The Czech DJ plays a night of remixed trance music with support from 13 other DJs. Tickets sold at bit.ly/2gj7wI0. Sep 16, 9pm. Whiteline, Silom Soi 8, 087-061-1117. B450-650. BTS Chong Nonsi. MATTNIMARE LIVE AT NONG TAPRACHAN
The independent indie rockers play an intimate set at the record store. Sep 17, 7pm. Chang Chui, 460/8 Sirindhorn Rd. Free. THE ROCKET WHALE'S ALBUM LAUNCH
The Bangkok-based hardcore band launches its debut album joined by electronic hardcore band Nobuna, plus support from One Way Street (Taiwan), Cyclamen (Japan), The Bandit Boy (Chiang Mai), Sinners Turned Saints and Lunatic. Sep 23, 5pm. Brownstone Studio, 1395 Sukhumvit Soi 77, 087-703-0448. B250. UGOSLABIER LIVE AT NONG TAPRACHAN
Metal rockers Ugoslabier play tracks tracks from their debut album Brew Heart. Sep 23, 7pm. Chang Chui, 460/8 Sirindhorn Rd. Free.
The city’s largest annual festival for opera, ballet, orchestral concerts and performance pieces continues through Oct 19 with a lineup of classic stage pieces from all around the world. Among the highlight pieces are the Antonio Andrade Flamenco Company, a live concert by the Shanghai Philharmonic Orchestra, and the classic Broadway musical, West Side Story. Tickets are now available on Thaiticketmajor. For more details visit www.bangkokfestivals.com Through Oct 19. Thailand Cultural Center, Thiam Ruam Mit Rd., 02-247-0028, 0-2262-3191.
SPARTACUS (RUSSIA)
CARMEN (SPAIN)
WEST SIDE STORY (USA)
Based on the historic story of a slave who rebels against the Roman Empire, choreographer Yuri Grigorovich’s Spartacus is performed by the Bashkir State Opera and Ballet Theatre. Tickets are B1,200-4,000.
One of the festival’s highlights sees the classic George Bizet opera about a Spanish woman’s intense love told by the Antonio Andrade Flamenco Company. Tickets are B1,000-3,000.
Adopting the story from the book of Arthur Laurents, this classic Broadway play tells the story of two teenage street gangs, the Jets and the Sharks, from different ethnic backgrounds. Performed with the original dance moves created by Jerome Robbins and Leonard Bernstein musical score. Tickets are B2,000-5,000
Sep 15, 7:30pm
LE CORSAIRE (RUSSIA)
The Bashkir State Opera and Ballet Theatre performs the epic adventure of pirates and a young and beautiful Greek woman, with dance choreography by Yuri Grigorovich. Tickets are B1,200-4,000. Sep 17, 2:30pm
FLYING SUPERKIDS (DENMARK)
Denmark’s Flying Superkids, a gymnastic dance troupe that has been around since the ‘60s, bring their acrobatic movements and creative choreography to Bangkok. Tickets are B1,000-3,000. Sep 19-20, 7:30pm
TORERA (SPAIN)
STUFF TK BOARD GAME FESTIVAL
The much-loved festival returns for the second time packed with educational games for the little ones. Sep 23-24, 11am. TK Park, 8/F, CentralWorld, 999/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-257-4300. Free. www.tkpark.or.th.
For the first time outside Spain, the Antonio Andrade Flamenco Company performs its new Flamenco dance, Torera. The performance tells a story of social conflict through the body movements of Ursula Moreno. The tickets are B1,000-3,000. Sep 22, 7:30pm
SHIANGHAI PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA (CHINA)
China’s leading orchestra visits Thailand to perform classics that include Overture to Candide (Leonard Bernstein), The Butterfly Lovers Violin Concerto (He Zhanhao and Chen Gang), and Symphony No. 9 in E minor ("From the New World") (Antonin Dvorak). Tickets are B1,0003,500. Sep 24, 2:30pm
PETER MARVEY’S MAGIC SHOW (SWITZERLAND)
The world renowned magician and two-time winner of the International Magicians Society’s Merlin Award and Golden Magic Wand performs his tricks in Bangkok. Tickets are B1,000-3,000. Sep 28-29, 7:30pm
BEAUTY AND THE BEAST (FRANCE)
The Malandain Ballet Biarritz performs this classic fairytale through contemporary ballet movements. Tickets are B1,000-3,000.
Oct 5-6, 7:30pm; Oct 7-8, 2:30pm, 7:30pm
LITHUANIAN NATIONAL SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA (LITHUNIA)
As one of their 50 annual shows, the orchestra performs the following pieces: Franz Liszt’s Hungarian Rhapsody No. 2 in C sharp minor, Edvard Grieg’s Peer Gynt suite (compiled from two suites) and Johannes Brahms’ Symphony No. 4 in E minor, Op. 98. Tickets are B1,000-3,000. Oct 14, 7:30pm
THE TAMING OF THE SHREW (GERMANY)
The Stuttgart Ballet performs a dance rendition of Shakespeare’s classic romantic comedy following a playboy and his rebellious love interest. Tickets are B2,000-5,500. Oct 18-19, 7:30pm
Oct 2, 7:30pm
SPORTS T E R M I N ATO R M I N I M A R AT H O N 2017
Hosted by SSI, the mini marathon returns with 2.5, 5 and 10km distances. Visit bit.ly/2wN9yG5 for application form and more details. To register visit http:// bit.ly/2wN9yG5. Sep 16, 6am. Lumphini Park. B300
SALES & FAIRS HAPPY EATING FESTIVAL 2017
Siam Paragon shopping mall hosts a celebration of food, good coffee and chocolate. Sep 16-17, 10am. Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02690-1000. Free. BTS Siam.
SDN RUN FOR FRIENDS 2017
Pea Mini Marathon
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Sep 23, 7:30pm
Run either 2.1 or 6.3km for charity, with all money raised going to families damaged by alcohol addiction. For more details on the registration visit fb.com/sdnrunforfriends/. Sep 23, 5am. Nawamin Pirom Park. B400
GLOBE-ATHON 2017
The mini marathon covers 5, 10 or 21km. All funds will go towards buying HPV vaccines for underprivileged youths. To register visit www.FanaticRun.com. Sep 24, 4:30am. The Sense Pinklao, Borommaratchonnani Rd. B300-400 FIVE FINGERS RUN 2017
This 10km run is limited to 450 participants. Visit bit.ly/2m4mP9J for more information. Sep 24, 6am. Vachirabenjatas Park. B500 8TH PEA MINI MARATHON
The 8th PEA Mini Marathon hosted by the Provincial Electricity Authority offers 3 and 10.5km distances. http://bit.ly/2vcbRn9. Sep 24, 6am. Ngamwongwan Rd. Chatuchak. B300
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FILM
Opening (Sep 14)
AMERICAN ASSASSIN (USA)
FEVER (UK)
Action/Thriller. CIA agent Mitch Rapp goes on a secret mission with a Cold War veteran and a lethal Turkish agent to stop a mysterious operative that can cause a World War in the Middle East.
Drama. Set in the Tulip mania of 17th century Amsterdam, the story follows an artist who falls for the married woman whose portrait he is painting.
PARP-PIM2
Chronicle
CHRONICLE
PARP-PIM2 BANGKOK PRINTMAKING EXHIBITION 2017
Painter and woodcut printmaker Verapong Sritrakulkitjakarn (Ayino) presents works that reflect and question society. Ticket price TBA. Sep 21-Oct 31, 6pm. S.A.C. Subhashok The Art Centre, Sukhumvit Soi 39.
Over 20 artists, including Beejoir, Alex Face and Glue Bag, present prints using etching, woodcut, lithograph and silk screen techniques. Sep 22-Nov 30, 10am. Kalwit Studio & Gallery, Wireless Soi 2 (Ruamrudee).
CUT&PASTE:THE BLACK PIG
ZYNC
American-born artist and tattooist Luke Satoru presents a show of fine jewelry, painting and graphic design at his Charoenkrung studio. Sep 16-Oct 1, 6pm. Sathorn 11 Art Space, 404 Sathorn Soi 11.
The art thesis exhibition of Assumption University's department of visual communication design. Sep 22-24, 10am. Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC), 939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630-8.
SPECIAL SCREENINGS
BABY DRIVER (USA)
BLOOD-C (JAPAN)
Action. A young getaway driver known as Baby (Ansel Elgort) wants to break from a life of crime after falling for a woman (Lily James), but that’s not so simple with work for a crime boss (Kevin Spacey) to finish.
Action/Drama. Set during prewar Japan, the story follows an intense battle been the Special Higher Police and villagers.
Upcoming (Sep 21)
Upside, Down
KINGSMAN: THE GOLDEN CIRCLE (USA)
Action. Sequel to the 2014 film. After their headquarters are destoyed, Eggsy (Taron Egerton) and Merlin (Mark Strong) must journey to the US to team up with an allied spy organization and defeat a common enemy.
Burros
THE MODERN OBLIVION
On Sep 17, Hubba-To screens Natchanon Vana’s challenging indie films Along the Shore, Under the Dying Sun, Amsterdam and Upside, Down, followed by a talk where Natchanon is joined by fellow director Kanapol Wong. Screening starts at 3pm; admission is free but by registration only. Sep 17, 3pm. Hubba-to, 3/F, Habito, 45/19 Sukhumvit Soi 77, 02-118-0839. Free
7TH NY PORTUGUESE SHORT FILM FESTIVAL
New York’s short film festival dedicated to the new faces of Portuguese cinema come to Thailand for the second time this Sep 16-17, showcasing works selected by experts from America, Portugal and Brazil including Ruben Alves (di-
ros directed by Odin Salazar Flores, along with a selection of shorts this Sep 23-24. Admission is free and screenings start at 5pm with English subtitles.
Royal Paragon Hall, 5/F, Room 5, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-7592. Free.
5pm. Cho Why, 17 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd. Free.
WHAT THE FILM SHORT FILM FESTIVAL 2
A THAI CULT FILM SCREENING
This Sep 23, Chang Chui teams up with What the Film (WTF) and Horrorclub.net to host the second edition of the short film festival dedicated to rising directors with unique styles of storytelling. Screening starts at 5pm and admission is free.
On Sep 24, online film community Horrorclub.net and ChangChui host the screening of cult ‘90s horror film Mah, considered the second film in Thailand’s history to feature a monster. Afterwards, there’s be a Q&A session with the film’s director, Leatlit Jansanjai, and a discussion about old films with copyright owner. Entry is B190. Sep 24, 2pm.
MEXICAN FILM SERIES
The Embassy of Mexico hosts a Mexican film festival showcasing a variety of contemporary works, like Bur-
Animation. Adapted from Mary Stuart’s fantasy book The Littlest Broomstick, this film follows the adventures of a little girl given magic powers for one night.
Mah
rector), Marcio Miranda Perez (São Paulo International Short Festival) and Don Cato (Director). Screenings start at 7pm on Sep 16 and 11am on Sep 17. Admission is free.
Sep 23, 5pm. Chang Chui, 460/8 Sirindhorn Rd., 086-388-3303. Free.
MARY AND THE WITCH’S FLOWER (JAPAN)
Chang Chui, 460/8 Sirindhorn Rd., 086388-3303. B190.
BIRTH OF THE DRAGON (USA)
WALK WITH ME (USA)
Action/Biography. Set 1964 San Francisco, the story of young, pre-fame Bruce Lee attempting to make a name for himself as a martial arts instructor.
Documentary. Narrated by Benedict Cumberbatch, the film offers a glimpse into the practices of the art of mindfulness with Vietnamese Zen Buddhist master Thich Nhat Hanh.
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BK Magazine Friday, September 15, 2017
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