it's free!
Rain is no excuse
Fighting The Tide The Bangkokians pushing back against unsustainable seafood
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page 3 4 cover story
Something Fishy
What We’ve Learned
3 upfront
9 escape routes
Food Bank
Get Out
12 avenue
14 blends
Silk Route
King of the Hill
That Bangkok’s first pride parade in over a decade has been postponed, again First it was March, then it was November, now Bangkok Pride is slated for early 2018. Though the dates are not yet confirmed, the move is out of respect for the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej’s funeral in October. The six-day event is envisioned to include workshops, film festivals, social events and parties, highlighted by a pride parade—the first in Bangkok since 2006.
16 bites
18 bk now
Uni Graduate
Where to Party
Who's in charge? Managing Director Andrew Hiransomboon Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Content Coordinator Nontaya Kumyat Staff Writers Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj, Theerada Moonsiri, Wanvida Jiralertpaiboon Junior Writers Neon Boonyadhammakul, Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan, Kasidit Srivilai, Kankanok Wichiantanon Art Director Vatanya Bongkotkarn Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Senior Graphic Designer Peeraya Sirathanisa Graphic Designers Anunya Chobnitas, Wirankan Saiyasombut Photographer Watcharawit Phudork Video Content Manager Chanon Wongsatayanont Video Editors Pattanagorn Adirekkiat Media Designer Saranya Laowtrakul Videographer Nattapol Srisukh
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BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 51 times a year, every Friday of each month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2016 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250
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That Burger & Lobster is open, finally After a series of delays, the fancy UK chain known for its daily queues takes residence in Gaysorn Village. Here, you can gorge on wild-caught Canadian lobster steamed or grilled (B1,5001,850), lobster rolls (B950-1,500) and burgers (from B750). For the best of both worlds, order the B&L Truffle Beast with lobster meat—yours for a measly B2,900. Open daily 5pm-midnight.
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That the city’s ugly electrical wires could be on the way out Maybe Bill Gates will get his wish after all. Residents along Phahon Yothin Road will surely have noticed the disappearance of unsightly wires above their head this past week. The current project to clear the stretch of road from five junctions of Ladphrao to Victory Monument is part of the Metropolitan Electricity Authority’s wider plan to move the city’s tangled wires underground within the next five years. The only problem for now is they’ve seriously messed up the footpaths in the process. That ice-cream-filled doughnuts are now a thing Move over cronuts. The latest Insta-ready desserts sweeping L.A. and New York are doughnuts stuffed with ice cream. You can now get them in Bangkok, too. Hashtag (www.fb.com/ hashtagbkksg) pops up at Rodfai Market Srinakarin every Fri-Sun to whip out warm, glazed hunks of dough filled with rainbow colored ice cream speckled with sprinkles. Oddly enough, the stall comes from a couple who also run a Sukhumvit MMA gym. That one of Bangkok’s indie film fest organizers needs your support Founded in 1995, Filmvirus is the non-profit organization behind a slew of underground film festivals under the banner of Wildtype. It’s calling on donations to help its latest experimental showcase, Wildtype Rhizome, launched in 2016, happen again next year. In case you don’t know, some of the city’s coolest indie directors got their start thanks to Wildtype: Beam Wong (Flummoxed Cocoon), Nattawoot Nimitchaikosol (Blackbird), Natchanon Vana (Along The Shore, Under The Dying Sun) and Wattanapume Laisuwanchai (Phantom of Illumination). For info on how to help, see www.fb.com/Kafelme.
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BK Magazine September 22, 2017
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upfront HOT OR NOT Michelin
Hot: Michelin chefs
Not: Michelin chefs
There’s no such thing as a “Michelin-star chef,” despite what pretty much every Bangkok hotel with a visiting chef will tell you. But a group of Bangkok chefs were chosen recently to be the faces of Michelin’s new video promoting the guide. Does this give us the clearest indication yet of who’ll make it? Probably not, since one of them, Tam Debhakam, doesn’t run a restaurant, and another, Nan Bunyasaranand of Little Beast, is closing hers down.
Hot: Pomfret
Not: Snowfish
Delicious, sustainable, widely available in Thai waters and totally missing from most Bangkok restaurant menus, pomfret, according to the people who know, is the local fish you’re supposed to be eating. We expect however that your last piscine feast featured snowfish instead—marketing-speak for the overfished and endangered Patagonian toothfish, as well as a favorite of fancy local menus. See page 4. https://www.flickr.com
Hot: Mead
Not: Pak Kret
Honey, good. Wine, good. Turtle Bar in Pak Kret… wait, where? Sadly, it’s one of only two places where you’ll be able to buy Devanom’s new mead, which just isn’t fair on the rest of Bangkok. Mead, for the uninitiated, isn’t something that died out with smallpox and neck ruffs—it’s a beverage made from fermented honey with characteristics similar to wine, which the Devanom guys are now brewing for the first time in Thailand. If you’re quick, you might still find some at Ari’s Dok Kaew House, too. See page 12.
Hot: Chinatown
Not: Charoenkrung
That’s it, we’ve changed our minds again. While we spent last week on Charoenkrung Soi 28 drinking rum and trying to figure out the one-way system (is it even possible to get a cab going in our direction from that place?), a bunch of new spots opened on Yaowarat’s Soi Nana. Rabbit Hill (see page 12) proves there’s room in town for one more Chinese-themed bar, while 103 Beds and Brews (see page 17) is the coffee-shop-slash-hostel-slash-hub-of-tasteful-cool-shit we said we’d open ourselves one day. Damn.
THAT’S WHAT SHE SAID
INTERVIEW Launched in early 2016, Thai Harvest|SOS (www.thaiharvestsos.org) is a foundation that rescues surplus food from restaurants, hotels, grocery stores and events that would otherwise go to waste. The free service, a collaboration with Australian organization OzHarvest, picks up donations of edible food and delivers meals to those in need. We speak to Andreanna “Darra” Christensen, 24, the Thai-American who’s running the show over here, about how its community fridge project works and its future fundraising events. Where did the idea come from? Bo Holmgreen, a Danish man with a background in software engineering and banking. Though based in the US, he would frequently travel to Thailand and stay at five-star hotels, where he saw all the food that would be thrown away at the end of the day. At the time, Abigail Smith [now Thai Harvest|SOS Chief Operations Officer] was working at the hotel he was staying at. She liked the idea and came on board with him. Smith is the one who set up everything. How do you collect and distribute the food? At first, it was very difficult for us to get people to donate; they were afraid that their food might cause someone to become ill so we had to set up meeting after meeting. But now people are calling us to collect their food. We pick it up with our truck, take it back to our kitchen at the office where a hygienist works to clean it or cut out any of the bad
bits. We are very careful with the food. So far we haven’t had anyone complain about getting sick. We deliver the food to a variety of foundations. The inedible stuff, like fruit peel and damaged vegetables, goes to farms all over Bangkok for composting. Who are you currently working with? We collect food from several big hotels, restaurants, cafes, places like Holey Bakery and Gallery Pizza, and various embassies. Tesco is one of our biggest donors. Also, if your company or organization has a big party, you can call us a few days in advance and we will be ready to pick up your leftovers. Where does the food go to? Urban refugee camps, elderly homes, orphanages like the Mercy Centre or Baan Rajawadee. We also teach people there about nutrition and provide them with recipes.
Tell us about your community fridge project. We set up our first fridge at The Commons mall, which allows the tenants to donate their leftover food for those in need. We even provide the Tupperware. We trained the restaurants and shops on what kind of food can be donated: for example, we don’t accept fish or certain dairy products as they go bad so quickly. We also just launched another fridge at River City mall. What’s next step for the foundation? Fundraising. We want to expand and in order to make that happen we need funding. So we are hosting an event at Whiteline on Sep 29 [see BK Now, page 16], which follows a fundraising event we held at Blaq Lyte recently. We will also make an appearance at Wonderfruit in Dec. Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj
You can contact Thai Harvest|SOS on 096-808-8008 or info@thaiharvestsos.org
by Kathy MacLeod (IG: @kathy_macleod)
BK Magazine Friday, September 22, 2017
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cover story www.fb.com/pla.organic
W
ater wars
Why the EU yellow card and Tier 2 Watch List ranking are just the start of the bad news for seafood in Bangkok. By Wanvida Jiralertpaiboon
www.fb.com/pla.organic
www.fb.com/pla.organic
W
hen the United States’ 2017 Trafficking in Persons report came out last June, Thailand failed to get upgraded from the Tier 2 Watch List category, which is reserved for countries that fail to meet the minimum standard for combating labor abuses. But human rights abuses are just one of multiple problems plaguing Thailand’s seafood industry. While the country has remained on the EU fisheries’ “yellow card” for its failure to safeguard against illegal fishing practices, the serious concerns about the freshness and chemical treatment of Thai seafood persist across the industry. Meanwhile in Bangkok, seafood restaurants have never been more thriving. Here, experts from across the industry, from NGOs to seafood suppliers to academics, explain why the problems aren't likely to be solved anytime soon.
Supaporn “Nuch” Anuchiracheeva Coastal managem e n t P h D g ra d uate Supaporn “Nuch” Anuchiracheeva heads Pla Organic, Thailand’s first and only fishery with the Organic Agriculture Certification Thailand (ACT). With EU funding to bring the catch from small-scale fisheries in seven provinces—Satun, Krabi, Phangna, Songkla, Patalung, Petchaburi and Pattani—to market in Bangkok, Nuch is creating a network that supports the livelihoods of fishing communities dedicated to sustainable practices. What makes Pla Organic different from other seafood suppliers? Any conscious consumer is concerned about traceability. That’s why the perception of the seafood Thailand exports to the EU is so negative. But with Pla Organic, we’ve built up a model that allows us to connect with fishermen so that we can detect how our seafood is caught, whether it’s environmentally friendly whether it comes from safe areas free from pollution. Our fish are labeled as the first organic seafood in Thailand. I personally thought the situation was hopeless before starting
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Chemical Dependence Three of the most common chemicals used to treat seafood
this business, but after working with these fishermen, I can see the potential for growing a sustainable, open network of fisheries in Thailand. How do you ensure the fisheries in each of those seven provinces match your standards? It’s authority distribution. We let the head of each group of fisherfolks keep records themselves. You have to see the big picture first: 80 percent of our fishermen cruise from small ports in their villages to go fishing every three days. In Western countries, most fish are caught from big fishing boats that float around the ocean for months and register their activity at the beginning and end of each journey. If you adopted the exact same policy in Thailand, government officers would have to tackle thousands of logbooks every three days. So we had to come up with a different pattern to achieve the same goal. What new implementations have been made against the EU yellow card? At first, the yellow card from the EU was like a wakeup call to the government. They have been trying to improve things, but the laws are being adjusted in line with Western models by people who don’t really understand the practices of Thai fishermen, and without even communicating with them. They have limited fishing to within a three-mile zone of the coastline, but how can you dump 80 percent of fishing vessels in a threemile scope? It doesn’t matter how big the nets they use are—the sea within three miles of the coast will be emptied. The nature of small-scale fishing boats means that they actually use line-catching methods for big fish such as barracuda, so it doesn’t matter if they fish in the deep ocean.
FORMALIN
BLEACHING AGENT
ALUM
What is it: A 37-50 percent- concentrate solution of formaldehyde, often with 10 percent methanol.
What is it: A mixture of water and 38-percent hydrogen peroxide or haiter-like agents.
What is it: A compound of aluminum in saltwater.
What’s it for: Making fish look fresher than it is. What can it do to you: It's listed as a probable cause of cancer.
What’s it for: Maintaining the white appearance of squid, cuttlefish and other mollusks, which turn red and swollen when left dead and immersed in water. What can it do to you: Can cause allergic reactions such as dizziness and trouble breathing.
What’s it for: giving sea urchin firmer texture and pumpkin-like yellow color. It will result in a bitter flavor. What can it do to you: There's no study that clearly testifies against alums's long term health risks.
BK Magazine Friday, September 22, 2017
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COMFORTme
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cover story www.fb.com/pla.organic
Bill Marinelli New Yorker Bill Marinelli owns The Oyster Bar Bangkok (see page 8), a long-established restaurant off Narathiwat Road that specializes in sustainable seafood. A trained marine biologist, Marinelli has been in the industry of trading shellfish and other seafood for decades. His company, Marinelli Shellfish, has operated since 1982 and is now one of the largest distributors of half shell oysters in the world. I’ve heard that you’ve never used local seafood at The Oyster Bar. Why? My main concern is water pollution. There are no standard laws protecting water quality, whether it’s for farming or wild-caught seafood. Once, I asked a guy responsible for fisheries in Thailand, who has the same marine biologist degree as me, “Would you drink the water in Surat Thani if I were to take the salt out?” He said no, it’s way too polluted. They know the problems, yet nothing has changed for decades. Oysters are filter feeders. They pick up viruses and bacteria from plankton. Farming is no less scary. The farm I went to observe last week in Samut Songkram shares the water for its shrimp and crab farms with the surrounding factories that make soap, sulphate and fertilizer, as well as a shipyard. Should we be concerned with overfishing in Thailand? Certainly! Three to four years ago I went to Mahachai Market several times with some chefs, and we only found tiny fish. They’re harvesting baby fish around Thailand. Maybe we have no more babies. We have to stop fishing for a very, very long while and set up strict marine reserves. But that won’t happen when there’s CP, Unilever. These big companies don’t care much about sustainability.
What makes seafood “organic”? Pla Organic is the first and only organic-certified seafood distributor in Thailand, according to the Organic Agriculture Certification Thailand (ACT). Its criteria are as follows:
Sirachai “Shin” Arunrugstichai Marine biologist and underwater photographer Sirachai “Shin” Arunrugstichai works with Thailand’s marine conservation groups, collaborating on shark research and conservation projects throughout Southeast Asia. His underwater photography has won 22 international awards since 2012. Can you briefly tell us about the shark research you’ve worked on? Thailand recently ranked the no. 1 country in the world for exporting shark, because of the demand for shark fin. Sharks are the top predator in the ocean. They control the food chain. They also give an incredibly low birth yield of just 10-20 pups a year. What’s wrong with our seafood industry? It’s been messed up for a long time. The policies to protect seafood are so weak. The decreasing number of edible fish is a serious concern. The methods we use to catch fish are shameful, aiming to get the highest yield, most of which ends up in animal feed. Do you see any hope for the future? We rank as one of the worst countries in the world for many of the seafood industry’s most negative issues. We need to accept the problems and start tackling them now, not just turning a blind eye. Our laws are not effectively managed or enforced.
1 Harvesting legally with minimum impact on the environment. Fisheries must use four-inch mesh nets. They must also not harvest from certain prohibited areas, and not harvest crabs with external eggs.
2 Seafood must be free of chemicals and synthetic substances, whether it is during harvesting, grading or transporting.
3 Harvesting must take place in areas that are not ecologically fragile, and which are far enough away from potential sources of pollution.
4 All seafood must be traceable, with a clearly defined record of transportation and where the fish was harvested.
Numerology
70% The amount of fish caught by trawlers that ends up getting mashed up for animal feed and used in hormones and pesticides.
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4-5kg 300kg 17.6kg The amount of fish you need to feed farmed salmon in order to produce 1kg of salmon meat.
The amount of fish trawler boats caught per hour in 1967.
The amount of fish trawler boats catch per hour in 2017.
6% 10% The amount of unspoiled coral reef left in Thailand’s seas.
The quantity of sharks left in Thai seas compared to 2007. According to this statistic, Thailand is losing its sharks faster than any other country.
BK Magazine Friday, September 22, 2017
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www.facebook.com/Bkkmarathon
Five ways to live the good life in Bangkok Yes, you can actually have a great time in Bangkok without punishing your body into submission with booze and unhealthy food.
YOLO Run
Farmers’ Market
4. Start training for one of these upcoming runs
Ma Maison
You could pump iron, box or jump head-first into the functional fitness craze sweeping Bangkok at the moment, but, honestly, the easiest way to start getting into shape is a good old run. There are heaps of marathons coming up in Bangkok over the coming months, and getting ready is as simple as putting one foot in front of the other. Start small with a mini marathon (5k), like the Empire Tower We Run on Nov 5. Once you’ve succumbed to the abyss of a runner’s high addiction, you can eye up Thailand’s more challenging races, like the Phukethon on Dec 8-10.
5. Spend the afternoon shopping at the Bangkok Farmers’ Market www.tacolake.com
Bang Krachao
1. Visit one of Bangkok’s beautiful urban green spaces There are a lot of green spaces hidden across Bangkok, but there’s no place quite like Bang Krachao. This massive “green lung” encompasses an entire bend along the Chao Phraya River just opposite Klong Toey, but you couldn’t feel farther away from Bangkok’s mass of traffic and giant crowds. Although many of Bangkok’s green spaces can also be explored alone, those looking to meet new people, get a bit of exercise and maybe even an educational day out should join the Spice Roads half-day bike tour that runs twice a day, every day. The tour rides through the area’s local temples, schools and markets, all while getting a good amount of exercise. B1,350 includes a bike, helmet rental and a professional tour guide. Register at www.spiceroads.com Phra Pradaeng, Samut Prakarn
2. Try your hand at some outdoor sports Spend the day cutting up some waves at Tako Lake, a full-featured cable wake park just outside of Bangkok designed for wakeboarding, wake skating, kneeboarding and water skiing. A day pass will cost you B400 while
Tako Lake
memberships are B7,500/year for 50 visits. Beyond the sports, this is a great place to relax away from the city center that also has an on-site restaurant and cafe serving classic Thai dishes, plus rooms to rent out for those who want to make an overnight trip of it. 175/1 Km.13, Bangna Trad Rd., 02-316-7809. www.tacolake.com
3. Sample some of Bangkok’s healthiest Thai dishes There are lots of places to get healthy Thai food, but if you don’t want to spend too much time thinking about it, head over to Nai Lert Park Heritage House’s Thai restaurant, Ma Maison, located in the antiquated home’s beautiful garden. There, you can grab a miang pla too (veggie wrap with Thai mackerel), which comes paired with a well-balanced, complex sauce. Why is this healthy, you ask? Mackerel packs a serious protein punch with added minerals like omega-3 that help reduce the risk of heart disease. All the veg inside is deliciously fresh and raw— crammed with vitamins and a healthy dose of fiber. It’s like a vitamin supplement, only it tastes good and you’ll actually want to eat it again. 4 Soi Somkid, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-655-4773
The Bangkok Farmers’ Market connects you one-onone with local producers and lets you grab some of Thailand’s freshest ingredients, including local fruits, vegetables and pastries. The market is also home to a vibrant community focused on healthy, sustainable living that gives back to Bangkok through education and charitable work. This year, the Bangkok Farmers’ Market is taking its community-centered focus to an even higher level by partnering with Living in Bangkok, an annual event hosted by Bumrungrad International Hospital to help connect locals with the services and communities they need. Sep 23. 21/F, Bumrungrad International Clinic Building. Soi Nana.
Living in Bangkok with the Bangkok Farmers’ Market by Bumrungrad Coming into its 19th year, Living in Bangkok is an event hosted by Bumrungrad to help locals and expats connect with the services and products they need to live happier, healthier lives. This year, the event hosts a range of exciting talks, performances and exhibition zones that center on community, food and services. Get first-hand information from international schools and top-level gyms; take part in the event’s FRESH Game to win amazing prizes; shop for world-class organic produce at the Bangkok Farmers’ Market; learn to make your own crafts from experienced Thai artisans. There is a lot of take in, and it’s all designed to help people live the good life. Sep 23. 21/F, Bumrungrad International Clinic Building. Soi Nana. www.bumrungrad. com/livinginbangkok
Bumrungrad International is the first Asian Joint Commission International accredited, multi-specialty hospital located in the heart of Bangkok, Thailand. Founded in 1980, it is one of the largest private hospitals in Southeast Asia, with 580 beds and over 39 specialty centers. Bumrungrad International offers state-of-the-art diagnostic, therapeutic and intensive care facilities in a one-stop medical center. www.bumrungrad.com
Brought to you by Bumrungrad International Hospital
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BK Magazine Friday, September 22, 2017
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cover story Menu Speak Tanaporn “Can” Markawat
But many people say that our local seafood is not safe. That makes sense because the origin of Thai seafood cannot be traced, since it comes from family-scale fisheries. Even restaurants sometimes don’t know where the fish they serve is sourced from. Many people argue that the oysters here are not clean. I believe Thais can eat them because we have built up a strong immune system. I also eat Thai oysters regularly. With nam jim seafood sauce and some herb condiments, they are tasty.
FINE DE CLAIRE
Though it’s a F re n c h p h ra s e, fine de Claire has nothing to do with where an oyster is from, but rather how they’re produced: in kneedeep ponds that, in French, are called claire. But fine de claire is regularly used as a marketing term to represent something more premium. Regularly the fine de claire oysters you eat in Bangkok will come from Vietnam—at a hugely lower cost than genuine French fine de claire oysters. hogislandoysters.com
We’ve heard that you use local seafood at your Thai restaurants. How do you guarantee the quality? We buy directly from the right sources in reputed fishing villages. This also allows us to sell at the optimum price point. The price you pay for fish in Bangkok is at least 3-4 times higher than if you buy directly from fishermen in harvesting provinces.
KUMAMOTO OYSTERS
From Japan, right? Probably not. Kumamoto or kushi oyster seeds are now raised in United States, where most of the stuff in Bangkok comes from. “When you spawn something over and over again, genetic mutation tends to occur,” says Bill Marinelli. “And that has happened now with these oysters.” hogislandoysters.com
As the owner o f C ra b & C l aw, Ta n a p o r n “ C a n ” Markawat is responsible for Bangkok seafood trends like lobster rolls and uni pasta. He’s also part of the team that owns The Local by Oam Thong, Kinkao and Naj Exquisite Thai Cuisine.
You’ve probably seen stuff like “snowfish” and fine de claire oysters on Bangkok menus, but do you actually know what the terms mean? Here are a few things you should be aware of:
SNOWFISH
What Thai fish do your restaurants normally serve? It depends on the daily catch. Customers always ask for pla kapong tod nampla (fried baramundi with fish sauce), though we have other rare and tasty fish like pomfret. Surprisingly, Thai people don’t know other kinds of fish. We only have the cooking know-how to eat it fried, and don’t consider the right seasons.
www.cookingchanneltv.com
BO.LAN
BUNKER
CRAB & CLAW
SEA TRUFFLES (NEW)
THE OYSTER BAR
A big supporter of Pla Organic (see page 4), chef couple Bo Songvisava and Dylan Jones regularly buy from the organization based on whatever seafood it can provide. They are also trying to implement their own changes to the supply chain, having recently organized a trip to Krabi for the chefs from Nahm and Appia to educate fishermen on seafood preservation methods that don’t require chemicals—while introducing them to a premium Bangkok market.
This fortress of concrete and steel run by chef Arnie Marcella applies contemporary American techniques to Thai produce. What they don’t boast so loudly about is the seafood that’s line-caught by one of their partners himself, Natakorn “Thumb” Chaengrew. Try it now in dishes like the Spanish mackerel with young tamarind and pickled mushrooms, and fussili with baby octopus braised inspicy tomato basil sauce.
This one's all about New England-style seafood. Don your bib and prepare to get your hands dirty by digging, hammering and cracking into shellfish dishes like the whole Maine lobster (B1,900) and crab roll (chilled snow crab on a bun, B350/650), or clam chowder (B240) and oyster Rockefeller (B420).
Sea Truffles made its name providing sea urchin to top restaurants around Bangkok, but has now branched into its own counter at The Opus Thonglor’s new Commons-style food court. Here, they guarantee that the bafun uni—the sub-species of sea urchin most commonly served in premium restaurants—is harvested from the Pacific island of Palau and free from any firming chemicals or preservatives. A dish of uni udon will set you back B449.
Bill Marinelli has a serious incentive for Bangkok to switch to the kind of sustainable fisheries and oyster farms he exports from the USA and Canada. But it’s hard to disagree with an oyster from Nootka Sound that’s “plump and rich, with a sweet, cucumber like finish” or one from Samish Bay that’s “fat and lustrous.” Flown in twice a week from North America, his bounty also includes king and snow crab, lobsters, mussels and clams.
24 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-260-2962. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am; Sat-Sun 122pm, 6pm-1am. BTS Thong Lo
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Also sometimes called “Chilean sea bass,” both of which are marketing names for Patagonian tooth fish, a frighteningly overfished species found in cold oceans. Thanks to their premium price tag, they are often illegally fished.
118/2 Sathorn Soi 12, 092-563-9991. Open daily 5:30pm-1am. BTS Chong Nonsi
7/F, EmQuartier, Sukhumvit Rd., 02261-0249. Open daily 11am-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong
The Opus, Thonglor Soi 10, 081-6944186. Open daily 5-11pm
395 Narathiwas Soi 24, 02-212-4809. Open Mon-Sat 6-11pm; Sun 12-2:30pm, 5:50-10pm
BK Magazine Friday, September 22, 2017
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LNOP 2017 for BK Magazine size: 125 x 170 mm
escapes ESCAPE ROUTES By Kankanok Wichiantanon
Last Night of the
CONCERT
KANCHANABURI
Natural Getaway A minimalist haven in the depths of the jungle, Le Bassin Erawan Resort (092-6175111,www.lebassinresort.com) celebrates the simpler things in life. The wooden raft house perched on the riverbank (B3,800/night) is nothing fancy, but its vintage four-poster bed and large sliding doors facing the river give it a rustic charm. On land, rooms are simple but comfortably furnished concrete structures with spacious terraces extending out over the river (B2,000-2,500/night). Want the full glamping experience? Stay in one of the huge, colorful tents for B2,900/night with breakfast and dinner included. River kayaking and rafting are also available upon request.
The best of British! Celebrating 120 years of proms history and 14 years of exceptional music making at Shrewsbury in one unique event THURSDAY 2nd NOVEMBER 2017
PHUKET
Cliff Hanger Cut into the cliffside overlooking Nai Harn Bay, Mahasamutr Restaurant and Bar (Nai Harn Beach, Rawai, 091-8213225. www.fb.com/mahasamutrrestaurant) is Phuket’s latest must-visit. But don’t mistake it for being linked to the fancy Hua Hin country club of the same name. Here, the vibe is much more down to earth. Its wooden terrace decorated in weather-beaten shipping paraphernalia juts out from the cliff, with a series of plunge pools below for those clever enough to pack swimming gear. The restaurant itself serves islandstyle seafood dishes with a Thai slant, like tiger prawns in a pineapple sauce (B500) and deep-fried seabass with chili, cashew, green mango and plum sauce. Beers and cocktails are B100-140. It’s already getting packed on weekends, so head there early to get that perfect sunset seat.
MEMORIAL HALL, SHREWSBURY INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Dinner and drinks from 5.45pm. Concert begins 7.15pm. For ticket booking, visit http://bit.ly/LNOP_2017 or www.shrewsbury.ac.th Phone: 02 675 1888
CHIANG MAI
Ditch the Hotel This private boutique house on the outskirts of Chiang Mai is perfect for when a hotel room just won’t do. Newly listed on Airbnb, the as-yet-unnamed villa (www.airbnb.com/ rooms/20195618) is spread across two buildings, comprising two large bedrooms, indoor and outdoor kitchens, a private pool, and a whole lot of green space. The decor’s a modern take on traditional Lanna style, with splashes of vibrant color juxtaposed with dark woods and gray stone. Visit the owner’s organic farm nearby to pick some fresh vegetables, perfect for throwing on the BBQ on a sunny afternoon. Do note, the villa is a 30-minute drive away from the city, but attractions like Mae Kampong village and Flight of the Gibbon are also close at hand. It sleeps up to four people and costs B7,983/night. Book on Airbnb at www.airbnb.com/rooms/20195618.
Opening Hour Mon – Fri 9.00 - 21.00 Sat – Sun 8.30 – 21.00
LAOS
Garden Theater For Laos’ premier annual film festival, Luang Prabang’s central garden transforms into an open-air theater, decked out with a huge movie screen and over 800 seats. The Luang Prabang Film Festival (Dec 8-13) will showcase a selection of Southeast Asian films—the line-up is still TBA, but rest assured it’ll all be free of charge. During the day, screenings will take place at Sofitel Luang Prabang, and come nightfall you can head to the handicraft market in town for more excitement. For further information, visit www.lpfilmfest.org. Return flights to Luang Prabang with AirAsia start at B2,170, though you’ll be lucky to find them quite that cheap.
Canberra's best cafe has finally landed in Bangkok. The best brunch and coffee in town. Home of the freakshake and much much more.
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Tel: 021853258 Facebook: patissezbangkok Order online on Foodpanda and Ubereat
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avenue FASHION
Eye for Style Local bag-making duo Jesse Dorsey and Wannasiri Kongman’s latest collection for Boyy will make you forget all about their greatest hits of the past. With its geometric shape, oversized eyelets and pastel color scheme (on-trend shades of pink and Aegean Sea blue are our faves), we can see the new Yeuxlet bag (starting B22,500) becoming a season must-have. But it’s the uberchic Yeuxlet low boots (B27,500) that we’re most in love with, thanks to that beautifully overstated leather-wrapped eyelet. And if you think the patent leather is a bit too lookat-me, then don’t worry—they have them in mule, too. 2nd Fl. 1031 Central Embassy, Ploenchit Rd., Pathumwan, 02-160-5843.
CO-WORKING SPACE
Mellow Out There’s new co-working competition on the start-up savvy streets of Thonglor-Ekkami. Mashmellow fulfills the requirements of tech moguls in the making with shared office space, 10 private offices and two meeting rooms. The vibe? Unintimidating, with “nap rooms,” on-site showers and networking events. At B320 for a one-day pass, it’ll cost you B30/day less to sit at their desks than Hive’s, though monthly membership for either is B5,500. But if Ekkamai co-working is what you’re after right now, our tip is to head to Hubba, where 30-day usage (eligible for three months) costs just B1,495 through Sep 30 (down from B2,990). Just so you know. 6/F, Park Avenue Home Office, Ekkamai Soi 12 and 14, 081499-8992. Open daily 8am-9pm
HOMEWARE
Art of Plating Any good Thonglor dinner party should be about tasteful tableware as well as tasty food. That’s where Quattro Design comes in, which has been providing Soi Tararom’s sexiest apartments with decor touches they can be proud of since long before Ikea came to town. This new collection of royal bone china is some of their prettiest work yet. Those elegant black swirls, we’re told, are inspired by Che Kung, the ancient Chinese military commander with a knack for matching patterns and prints. The B5,500 tableware set includes three different sizes of plates in three different patterns, while set of tea cupscosts B1,900. 912/3 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7806. www.quattro-design.com
SHOPPING
J Fest The good news: Bangkok’s getting Uniqlo’s new collaboration with Northern Ireland’s designer of-the-moment, Jonathan Anderson, on the same date as the rest of the world, this Sep 22. The better news: you can afford it, with tees at just B590 and padded tote bags at B990. Even more design-forward pieces like the wrapped denim skirt cost under B2,000. Don’t expect anything fancy like you might have seen from Anderson at Loewe or his own JW Anderson Line. The Uniqlo x JW Anderson collection is all about classic British identity, bringing in details like old-school stripes, quilted fabrics, isle mock and vintage check patterns. And there’s plenty in there that’ll suit Bangkok’s hot climate, too. Try 1/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd.
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BK Magazine Friday, September 22, 2017
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ADVERTORIAL
GET SOME
T-STYLE These three brands are changing the game with cutting-edge designs that help save the environment.
T
he Department of International Trade Promotion has just kicked off a new project called T-Style (Thailand Style) that focuses on promoting environmentally friendly products made by local Thai brands. Aimed at the Japanese market, the project highlights 37 local brands with strong Thai identities in fields like interior design, decor, fashion, beauty and wellness to help expose Thai talent. Watch out for these three names who stick out for their eco-friendly products and creative ideas.
MR.LEAF Ditch the tired old leather wallet in favor of this trendy handmade one from Mr. Leaf, a Chiang Mai-based bag and accessories brand whose products are exclusively made from Tong Teung leaves a tough and durable plant native to Thailand’s northern provinces. You can also snag a cool leaf lamp with stunning natural patterns across the shade. www.leaf2003.com
MADMATTER
RUBBER KILLER
Each year, over 10 million tons of clothes are thrown in the garbage. Madmatter puts a dent in that number with its “Waste to Worth” philosophy. This innovative brand uses discarded material as the building blocks of its clothing and accessories. We love the new Mongkol Bag made from leftover fabrics but cool enough to tote on night’s out.
Rubber Killer crafts masculine wallets, backpacks and sneakers out of recycled tires. Functional, good for the environment and cutting edge, it’s not surprising these products landed in Paris’s Maison et Objet design fair this year. www.rubberkiller.com
www.madmatterstore.com
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avenue FASHION
Jewel of the Orient Thai designers are turning to China this season. Here are the key pieces. By Kasidit Srivilai Fan clutch, Kloset, B17,250 Perissa blazer, Patinya, B12,500
Antoinette jacket, Sretsis, B20,500
Dress, Kloset, B18,250
Jumpsuit, T and T, B9,450
Skirt, Thea by Thara, B9,850
Essentials
Renee skirt, Sretsis, B9,900
Kloset. 3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd. Kloset
Lan Fen earrings, Kloset, B4,150
Antoinette mini pouch, Sretsis, B4,500
Patinya. 1/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd. Thea by Thara. 2/F, Siam Square One, Rama 1 Rd. T and T. Available at The Wonder Room, 3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd. Sretsis. 1/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd.
SHOPPING Bangkok’s always-on-sale fashion stores
NEXT TO NORMAL
CLUB 21 COLLECTIBLES
ONION
CentralWorld’s chicest multilabel store specializes in the kind of in-the-know, niche designer labels found on blogs like Highsnobiety—and regularly offers discounts of 50-80 percent. So while a pair of suede slip-ons from Common Projects would usually sting you for B19,900, right now you can pick them up for B9,950. Other brands to look out for: Maison Kitsune, whose sweaters currently sell for B6,200 (from B12,400) and Clover Canyon, whose pretty printed dresses you can snap up for B11,450 (usually B22,900).1/F, CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd. 02-646-1847
Grab a bargain on the clothes which only last season were on the Paris and Milan Fashion Week runway by heading to this high-end fashion importer from Singapore. Right now you can get a pair of Dries Van Noten leather sandals at B7,900 (from B14,500) and a B35,600 Emporio Armani jacket reduced to just B9,850. Club21 and its collectible treasures has now branched out to three stores around Bangkok: Siam Center, EmQuartier and Central Embassy. Try the biggest store at M/F, EmQuartier, Sukhumvit Rd. 02-0212118. BTS Phrom Pong
The multilabel store of House Sorasak, who plays guitar for Slur, collects minimal (mainly) men’s fashion that will make you the next hipster of Ekkamai. Check out their website and you’ll find essentials like Boston Club’s sunglasses (B10,900 now B7,085), Saturdays Surf T-shirts (B2,190 now B1,314) and Rains bags (B5,190 now B3,114). 19/12 Ekkamai Soi 12, 02-116-6078. BTS Ekkamai. www.onionbkk.com
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BK Magazine Friday, September 22, 2017
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bites & blends
BAR
Clinical Precision Hair of the Dog’s Phrom Phong branch is no longer limited to craft beer. To complement the asylum-themed bar’s 13 rotating taps, they’ve turned the mezzanine floor into The Clinic, a lounge doing cocktails and pub grub. Here, you’ll find mostly straight-up classic drinks like amaretto sour, whiskey sour and White Russian (all B200), which switches cream for milk. To go with, there’s comfort food from Saengdao MacDonald, ex-chef at Mikkeller. Free-range chicken stars in the lightly battered buffalo chicken tenders (B220), which come with a dense blue cheese dip, while locally produced cheese curd elevates the cheese larb balls (B200) to another level. You can also get the curd slathered atop Canadian poutine (B220), made with four-hour-simmered gravy and jalapenos. Stay tuned for chef Saengdao’s own cafe, Breakfast Story, on the next flight up, opening in mid-Oct. 593/27 Sukhumvit Soi 33/1, 02-258-1461. Open Mon-Fri 5pm-12am; SatSun 2pm-12am. BTS Phrom Phong
NEW BRUNCH
BAR
DESSERT
East to West
Dream Team
Cheese Dreams
After welcoming new Japanese chef Yoji Katayama (previously of Hotel Okura Amsterdam and Grand Hyatt Tokyo), Morimoto has rolled out a tempting new all-you-can-eat Sunday brunch starring the restaurant’s famed Asian fusion cuisine. For B2,300 (or B2,900 with free-flow cocktails, wine and sparkling sake), you get two hours to gorge on over 50 selections, some of which are seasonal, amid the restaurant’s Scandinavian-chic, wood-heavy setting. The unadventurous can stick to tuna pizza and tacos, but there's also some next-level Japanese fare. Their wagyu beef gets grilled on hoba leaf for an earthy, smoky flavor, while the grilled chicken comes dressed in yuzu foam. Available from 11:30am-2:30pm. 4/F, Mahanakorn Cube, 96 Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-060-9099. BTS Chong Nonsi
The guy who’s been behind the bar at The Never Ending Summer and Summer House Project since the start, Dheeradon “Gotji” Dissara, has jumped aboard Duangrit Bunnag’s latest design-y project, Warehouse 30. At the Summer Heath bar, Gotji whips up fruity concoctions like Transmogrification (B310), whose mix of grapefruit, gin and vanilla syrup carries a mysterious note of dark chocolate, and Relaxing (B280), a refreshing gin-and-tonic with the addition of orange and coffee. It seems Gotji and Duangrit aren’t done yet, either, with plans for a pop-up bar at the Lonely Two Legged Creature store at Gaysorn Village in the near future. Warehouse 30, Charoenkrung Soi 30, 086-554-5553. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-12am
Tokyo Milk Cheese Factory cookies have long been the souvenir of choice for in-the-know Bangkokians visiting Japan— the salt and camembert flavor, if you want to really make your co-workers happy. Now, these cream cheese-layered, crepebased parcels of deliciousness are available right here, in boxes of 10 for B430. The new kiosk in Siam Paragon also does a decadently rich and creamy Hokkaido milk cheese cake (B170/ slice; B890/pound). This is, after all, the same company behind Hokkaido’s much-loved LeTao cheesecake. There’s a cheese soft serve at B155 as well. We expect a queue. G/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam
BK Magazine Friday, September 22, 2017
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blends NEWS
The brothers behind Thailand’s first hops farm launch a new drink and it’s not beer
ON THE BAR
Rabbit Hill
The new kid in Chinatown focuses on beer, sake and whiskey. By Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj
The buzz: Squeezed between a motorbike repair shop and a spirit house shop, this is Yaowarat’s latest bar to go for a red-lit, retro Chinese look. Rabbit Hill celebrates Asian drinking culture by offering beer, whiskey, sake and other booze from around the region. The decor: With its discreet entrance marked only by a red door and tiny window, the bar fits seamlessly with its shop-house surroundings. Step inside and things get a lot more kitsch with bright red walls and a striking mural of a qipao-clad woman drinking Moonzen, a Hong Kong craft beer. Nab a seat at the tiny bar or at one of the the small wooden tables at the foot of the stairs. The drinks: The ever-changing selection of Moonzen beers (B250/half pint; B340/pint, B280/bottle) is the most popular choice—try the South Cloud Lager, an easy-drinking beer with subtle Chinese tea notes. There’s also a wide selection of Japanese sakes, such as Bjofu Junrei Junmai Ginjo sake (B2,700/1.8L) and Kozaemon Junmai umeshu sake (B3,800/1.8L; B2,000/500ml; B200/glass) as well as whiskeys like Suntory Kakubin (B120/glass; B1,200/bottle) on offer.
The food: Chow down on the kind of Chinese snacks your grandparents might have eaten back in the day, such as the paper-wrapped, deepfried chicken with red chili, garlic and vinegar (B180)—perfect with a cold beer. Other old-school eats include cold jelly pork knuckle (B100), braised abalone with rice (B250) and fish maw soup (B300). The music: A live cover band plays Chinese and English pop songs on Fri and Sat from 8-10pm. Outside those hours, expect cinematic Chinese love songs swirling in the background to get you all nostalgic. The crowd: Young office-workers, shirts untucked and ties loosened, thirsting for a beer and the occasional family mistaking the place for a Chinese restaurant. Why we’d come back: The food’s delicious while the atmosphere nails the Chinese trend that’s already been kicking around for six months. The drink list’s full of plenty of new stuff to get you sozzled before stumbling over to Soi Nana.
Nattachai and Teerapat Ungsriwong, the brains behind Devanom IPA, which was named Thailand’s best IPA at the 2016 Beercamp: Fightclub competition, have launched a new project called Nonthaburi Brewing Company. The company is legally registered with a fermented alcohol license, which grants them the right to produce non-distilled beverages like wine, cider and mead, but not beer. The first batch of Nonthaburi Mead, made from longan honey from a farm in Chiang Mai fermented with mineral water and yeast, will be unleashed this week in limited supplies. Mead (or “honey wine”) is argued to be the oldest alcoholic beverage known to man. For now, less than 100 bottles will be available only at two bars: Turtle Bar in Pak Kret, Nonthaburi, and Dok Kaew House Bar in Ari. Those who miss out this time can expect far larger batches of 2,0003,000 bottles per month in the near future. Next year, the brothers plan to launch a new label of either mead or cider every month or two. Despite this latest progress, the much-loved Devanom IPA continues to be brewed outside of Thailand (in Cambodia, to be precise) before being shipped back home. The brothers are also the guys behind Thailand’s first hops farm, Deva Farm & Cafe.
1 Santi Phap Rd., 092-646-6636. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight
NEWS Check out the latest cocktail menus in town DIM DIM
Dim Dim
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Sukhumvit’s petite Chinese-themed cocktail bar is keeping up with the Rabbit Hills and Ba Haos by launching a brand new menu that continues to heavily riff off the Chinese vibe. Start off with a refreshing kick like the Mandarinta (B320), in which mandarin orange puree gets an Oriental lift from sesame—in this instance, infused with tequila then also blended with triple-sec, lime, salt and pepper. Also make sure you check out its new gin infusion, featuring bael (a Southeast Asian herb) and goji beery. Find
it on the menu in the Wolf of Bael (B300), mixed with double chili cinnamon syrup, egg white and lemon. 27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-085-2788. Open TueSat 6:30pm-1:30am
VOGUE LOUNGE
The new guy at Sathorn’s swanky rooftop bar, Fabio Brugnolaro, keeps with the place’s penchant for fresh and floral flavors, but adds some complexity. Those who don’t like daiquiri will find themselves finishing Brugnolaro’s version, the Fancy Daiquiri (B360), in which he mixes three-year-
old Havana rum with Leblon Cachaca (cachaca), lime juice, cucumber, apple juice and egg white. Negroni lovers, look out for the Old Pal (B360)—“it’s like a whiskey version of Negroni,” he says, which means that Chivas Regal 12 Years Old takes the place of gin, mixed with Mancino red vermouth, Campari, Angostura Bitters and orange zest. Best of all, you can get them both in the daily 2-for-1 happy hour from 5-9pm. Result! 6/F, Mahanakhon Cube, Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-001-0697. Open daily 5pm-2am
BK Magazine Friday, September 22, 2017
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FOOD REVIEWS
Nan Charcoal Grill HHHH Spanish. 1124 Narathiwas Soi 17, 081-9398389. Open Mon-Sat 5.30pm-11.30pm. Corkage B250. BBBB
Competition among Bangkok’s Spanish restaurants is heating up, and Sathorn’s latest dog in the fight is Nan Charcoal Grill. Found on a leafy corner of Narathiwat Road, the restaurant champions a Basque-style of smoky, coal-grilled meats and fish indigenous to northern Spain—Rubia Gallega beef tenderloin (B890), grilled tiger prawns (B620) and Galician prime rib tomahawk (B5,000/ kg). A nearby university prohibits alcohol sales, but with corkage at a very reasonable B250 it’s easy to bring your own. Inside is an eclectic mix of soft industrial decor and casual touches. Large steel support beams lined with used wine bottles loom over bright orange booths, and vast windows create an airy atmosphere while the smoke and sizzle from a semi-open kitchen bellows into the main dining area. The soundtrack here is all ’80s hits and modern pop tunes. If that’s your jam, you’ll
Torihada HHHH Japanese. 43/1 Soi Anuman Rajadhon, Surawong Rd., 02- 634-5860. Open Mon-Sat 11am-1pm, 5:30 -11pm; Sun 4:30 -11pm. Corkage B300. BB
This Tokyo-hailing charcoal grilled chicken specialist is the affordable, authentic, produce-driven izakaya (Japanese tavern) you hope to stumble upon when navigating Silom’s Japanese restaurant-saturated back streets. The open kitchen dominating half the space is as lively as the Japanese office workers who pack out every table. Last time we went there, at 8pm, it was jammed. But the professional front-of-house team took a break from conversing with other customers in fluent Japanese to show us to an adjacent shop-house space—far calmer than the restaurant proper but spacious and with its own private staff. The menu highlights yakitori (grilled chicken skewers) and nabe (hot pot), with a dizzying variety of different chicken parts offered at low prices (B45-75). Don’t be afraid of ordering from the scarier parts of the menu. The chochin (chicken’s ovary, B65) might
love the vibe. While the aesthetic stands out, the flavors on the tapas house platter (B390) do not. Aside from delightful juicy bites of chorizo on toast, it’s mostly an uninspiring and mushy assortment of fried potato bomba and iberico croquettes. Redemption is found in the Norwegian salmon tartare (B270), which is balanced and tangy with support from soft chunks of avocado and a bed of almond cream. Chef Vimvadee Piyavanich’s presence is hard to miss. She spins multiple plates as lead host and head of the kitchen, and seems to share a lot of hugs with the stream of regulars that pour in each night. Coming off a stint at the two-Michelin-starred L’Espadon in Paris, she displays her fine-dining chops through attempts at flashy, Nouvelle-style presentation. But the flavors, and prices, don’t seem to match. On our last visit, the grilled waygu steak with roasted bell peppers and potatoes (B590) was so salty it was hard to finish with any enthusiasm. The same goes for the classic pan-cooked rice paella (B395), which was watery and came with chewy, overdone clams. The tender pork presa shoulder (B520) is better thanks to a nice grilled sear and subtle tinge of garlic, but still lacks the sufficient “wow” factor to justify its size-toprice ratio. That’s pretty much the story throughout. Nan Charcoal Grill has produce as good as anywhere in town, but unbalanced flavors and small portions don’t do justice to the amount of money you’ll spend eating here.
take some courage to plop in your mouth, but is one of the restaurant’s absolute high points. The two glistening orbs of yolk, too young to have formed into proper eggs, explode in the mouth with creamy intensity, while the flesh (chewy, much like pork intestine) is imparted with a fragrant smokiness and elevated by a sweet glaze. The aida (blood vessels) are just as decadent, like tucking into meaty, salty crisps. Whatever you order, from the momo (thigh, B55) to the goro (minced chicken balls, B75), it all comes perfectly charred—a touch of burnt crust, flavors of deep smokiness—despite the flesh inside remaining so moist you don’t even need the miso paste. You’ll find the same minced chicken balls in the nabe, the soft, diced chicken mixed with the occasional piece of cartilage for added bite. If you visit with friends, don’t miss the Torihada nabe (B300 per person, minimum of two people). Its collagen rich broth—mellow, comforting—is intensified with a spike of yuzu kocho, a spicy, salty, citrusy paste. We’ve made our way through most of the menu, and nothing—from the beautifully moist pate (B140) to the fresh chicken sashimi—has ever disappointed. Our only advice would be to avoid the raw chicken breast salad (B200), which, though fresh, is a bit tasteless. Another branch on Sukhumvit Soi 33 focuses on pork and one in Udomsuk also has fish.
Ratings
Price guide
PPPP Forget it PPPP Only if you’re in the neighborhood PPPP A pleasant dining experience PPPP Not to be missed
B BB BBB BBBB
BK pays for its meal and does not call ahead or sit with the chef.
Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.
Symbols
H Reservations recommended F Parking available E Dress requirements G Live music
BK Magazine Friday, September 22, 2017
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bites
OPEN DOOR
Sea Truffles
One of Bangkok’s leading seafood importers goes it alone.
The buzz: The latest addition to Opus on Thonglor Soi 10 is all about uni (sea urchin) and other organic seafood. Sea Truffles made its name providing the sweet little ocean delicacies to places like Crab & Claw and The Dock, but has now branched into its own counter at the complex’s Commons-esque Foodtopia restaurant community. The decor: This compact kitchen and counter stands out from the others in the food court-like space with its black-and-white striped ceiling and live tanks of crawling lobsters. Nearby, you’ll also find Osteria’s tapas, kebabs from The Kababary and Ogam’s Korean pub grub, which you can also order to have at your table.
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The food: The selection of fresh Irish oysters (B150/piece), cobia from Phuket (B290) and steamed Maine lobster (market price) are all testament to the company’s experience in premium seafood. But the star of the show is undoubtedly the bafun uni, harvested from the Pacific island of Palau and free from any firming chemicals or preservatives. Have it as uni sashimi (B499/50g), uni sushi (from B299/piece), and uni ravioli stuffed with shiitake and cooked in dashi (Japanese soup with dried kelp and bonito fish flakes) and cream sauce (B299/3 pieces; B449/5 pieces). Want the full uni experience? Try the bafun uni udon served with whole sea urchin roe and salmon roe (B499). You can also have your steamed lobster as Surf & Turf (B1,299) with a hanger steak or in pad Thai (B790).
For a post-meal treat, try the Malagos chocolate buttons (B35), which hail from a bean-to-bar plantation in Palau. The drink: The seafood goes perfectly with sakes like Shikaiou Fuku Tokubetsu-Junmai (B699/300 ml) and Born Junsui Pure Junmai-daiginjo (B799/300 ml) or Italian house wine (B180/ glass). More Spanish wines are coming soon. Why we’d come back: Who can serve fresher seafood than the importers themselves? The prices are very impressive too, especially given Sea Truffles' organic and sustainable credentials. On this evidence, there might yet be hope for Opus and Foodtopia in the battle of Thonglor’s foodie malls. Wanvida Jiralertpaiboon
BK Magazine Friday, September 22, 2017
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Ong Tong Khao Soi
103 Bed & Brews
Chata
NEW AND NOTED
Something’s Brewing The latest face on Soi Nana, the buzzing hipster enclave near Chinatown, comes backed by famous actors Ray MacDonald and Athip Nana. But don’t let that stop you dropping by 103 Bed and Brews (103 Soi Nana, Maitri Chit Rd., 02-090-1103), an elegantly-appointed hostel-slash-cafe packed with vintage Chinese charm and colorful abstract paintings. The coffee list goes beyond espresso to creative cold brew options like one spiked with som-jeed orange syrup (kumquat) and tonic water (B100), while its signature tea (B95) herby ceylon tea with ginger, lemongrass, and orange. Rooms overlooking the hubbub of the street start at B1,200/night.
Northern Flair The people behind Chiang Mai’s beloved Ong Tong noodle shop have sprouted up in Bangkok with a restaurant devoted to khao soi (northern-style curry noodles). Ong Tong Khao Soi (21 Phahon Yothin Soi 7, 02-003-5254. www.fb.com/ongtongkhaosoi) brings northern recipes belonging to the owner’s grandmother
to Ari in a warm, light-yellow setting. The highlight khao soi gai (B69) comes with a creamy yet spicy soup and a tender chicken drumstick, while the khao soi haeng sai oua (B89) is a stir-fried version starring homemade Northern-style sausages and a slightly burnt aroma. Do also try the deliciously moist poo ong (a mash of grilled rice-field crab's eggs and egg, B69/5 pieces), prepared in Chiang Mai and flown down in ready-toserve little shells.
House Rules From a gorgeous glasshouse extension to Yaowarat’s colonial-style Baan2459 hotel, Chata (98 Phatsai Rd., 096-1545049) serves serious coffee in a setting swathed in natural light. Everything is overseen by Nopphadon Jantranapaporn, who’s built a name for his monthly latte art classes at School Cafe in Bangkhen, while beans come from all over—try the house-blend (Thai, Indonesian, Ethiopian and Brazilian) dressed up with lime and bubbly cola in the Colapresso (B140) or play it simple with pour-over (B120). Bites don’t go beyond a simple coconut cake with tart-like crust (B65). Wanvida Jiralertpaiboon
TABLE TALK
Nowhere 6/F, Tha City Loft, Ekkamai Soi 6, 094-516-6663. Open Mon-Thu 5-11pm;Fri 5pm-12am; Sat 11am-12am; Sun11am-10pm It might only be six floors up, but there’s nothing obstructing the cool, 180-degree views of Ekkamai from this trendy rooftop restaurant atop the Tha City Loft Hotel. The continentspanning cuisine, delicious cocktails and good vibes speak for themselves, but don't come here expecting a romantic candlelit dinner. Despite the rooftop views, the stylish loft space is better thought of as a casual hangout spot. Exclusively for Citi credit card members. Get 10% discount on food only (Today – 28 Feb 18)
BK Magazine Friday, September 22, 2017
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now WED Theater of Dreams This Sep 27 sees prog-rock royalty Dream Theater descend on ThunderDome. The wizened rockers are currently touring the world to celebrate the 25th anniversary of Images and Words, the album that spawned a whole generation of air guitarists. See page 19.
FRI Spanish Steps George Bizet’s classic opera, Carmen, gets the flamenco treatment this Sep 23, when Spain’s Antonio Andrade Flamenco Company performs the second of its shows for this year’s International Festival of Dance and Music. The first happens one night before (Sep 22), and will be the group’s first performance of the ambitious Torera project outside of Spain. See page 19.
FRI Take Flight Could we finally be catching up with Singapore for big-name international DJs? Not really, but this weekend’s (Sep 22) Fly Beyond Tonight festival at CentralWorld, featuring Herobust, Bass Modulators and Heatbeat does follow on from last week’s huge acts like Chainsmokers and Klingande. See page 19.
SAT Booze Cruise There’s a beer party on a boat this Saturday (Sep 23). But you’ll have to get yourself to Koh Kret, all the way up near Nontaburi, if you want to jump aboard and set sail for the Craft / Cruise – Manifesto, brought to you by the island’s pinoneering Chit Beer homebrew. See this page.
NIGHTLIFE THE GODFATHER RATED X
TRASHER PARTY
The bar known for supporting the Thai craft beer scene throws a mafia-themed party introducing a new brew by X-Beer brewery. Sep 22, 6pm. Where Do We Go, Ladprao Wanghin, 094-548-2326. Free.
The city's gay-friendly party organizer returns for another night full of dancing and singing with special guest, luk thung singer Yui Yardyer. Sep 23, 8pm. Muang Thai GMM Live House, 8/F, CentralWorld, 999/1 Rama 1 Rd. B500.
BREAKING BAD PARTY
The Latin American bar transforms itself into a laboratory with another themed party based on the cult series Breaking Bad. Sep 22, 7pm. Revolucion Cocktail, 50 Sathorn Soi 10. Free. LIVE SWINGING PIANO TRIO JAZZ Ro-Jaws
A piano, bass and drum trio perform till late. Sep 23, 9pm. Le Cafe des Stagiaires, 142/21 Sathorn Soi 12, 081-207-3077. BTS Chong Nonsi. Free. A-KATANYU THE MAN WHO STANDS UP
One of the few Thai stand-up comedians, A-Katanyu, presents his first major show. Sep 22-23, 8pm. Siam Square One, Rama 1 Rd. B500-1,800.
ONE DAY, ALL THE MEMORIES WILL SHATTER YOU
The launch event for the new book by Jidanun L. will also feature a mini rock concert by Harmonic Distortion. Dress code is blue. Sep 23, 7pm. Jam, 41 Charoen Rat Soi 1, 0835451-833. Free. BTS Surasak. LEGENDS OF BANGKOK
A tribute night to the city's longest running house and EDM venues with DJ Tong and percussionist Num, accompanied by the live band Chai Blues. Sep 23, 9pm. Maggie Choo's, underground/F, Hotel Novotel Bangkok Fenix Silom, 320 Silom Rd., 091-772-2144. Free. CRAFT / CRUISE - MANIFESTO
Harmonic Distortion
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Set sail on the Chao Phraya River and try beers from the likes of Chitbeer, Devanom, Lazy Cats, Wizard Beer, Mickleheim and Red
Stone, along with live bands and a barbecue. Register at Chitbeer Koh Kret at 5pm and travel at 6pm. Sep 23, 4pm. B1,700 includes 2 drinks and free food. LUCAS & STEVE (THAILAND DEBUT SHOW)
The Dutch DJs sping house and tech-house. Ticket price TBA. Sep 28, 9pm. Levels, 6/F, Aloft Hotel, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 082-3083246, 095-248-3897. BTS Nana. B300-500. KILLER #3 - GANGSTER REUNITE
The Charoenkrung beer bar hosts another tasting session devoted to local underground brews like Pause, Nectar and Look-Krung. Sep 29, 6pm. Let The Girl Kill, 747 Charoenkrung Rd., 080-599-6177. Free. MRT Hua Lamphong. UGLYFRUIT: A FRUIT FUNDRAISER
ThaiHarvest|SOS, a foundation that rescues food that would otherwise go to waste, throws a party featuring music by DJs Ro-Jaws, Lows and Boogie G and cocktails made with garnishes from rescued fruits. Entry is also by donation of five non-perishable food items. Sep 29, 7pm. Whiteline, Silom Soi 8, 087061-1117. B500. BTS Chong Nonsi.
BK Magazine Friday, September 22, 2017
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now MUSIC
FESTIVAL
Bangkok's coolest nightclub is throwing its own festival
Pang Nakarin
Pongsit Kampee
gigs WE WON'T BREAK
Live rock music till late by local bands Pap Yeahh, Artist Focus, The Whitest Crow and Houdini, joined by One Way Street from Taiwan. Sep 26, 6:30pm. Play Yard by Studio Bar, Lad Phrao Soi 8, 081-173-3616, 085-146 -8017, 086 -866 -8869. B200. UGOSLABIER LIVE AT NONG TAPRACHAN
Metal rockers Ugoslabier play tracks tracks from their debut album Brew Heart. Sep 23, 7pm. Chang Chui, 460/8 Sirindhorn Rd. Free. LUCA CIARLA QUARTET AT THE LIVING ROOM
An evening of jazz with the Italian quartet. For more information, contact dining.sgs@luxurycollection.com. Sep 29, 8pm. Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-649-8888. B300-1,000. THE ROCKET WHALE'S ALBUM LAUNCH
The Bangkok-based hardcore band launches its debut album joined by electronic hardcore band Nobuna, plus support from One Way Street (Taiwan), Cyclamen (Japan), The Bandit Boy (Chiang Mai), Sinners Turned Saints and Lunatic. Sep 23, 5pm. Brownstone Studio, 1395 Sukhumvit Soi 77, 087-703-0448. B250.
concert FLY BEYOND TONIGHT
A party fusing fashion and EDM sounds from international DJs like Herobust, Bass Modulators and Heatbeat. Advance tickets available
on bit.ly/2xxWuGb or B1,800 at the door. Sep 22, 5pm. Muang Thai GMM Live House, 8/F, CentralWorld, 999/1 Rama 1 Rd. B1,200-1,800. BTS Chit Lom. WHITE CASTLE MUSIC FESTIVAL
This progressive house music festival promises international DJs like Cartel from the UK, Marnik from Italy, HOLL&RUSH and Jaggs from Holland. Sep 22, 6pm. Centerpoint Studio Thailand, 9, 11 Sukhumvit Soi 105, 02-361-9229. B1,500-30,000. LUCY ROSE
The British singer-songwriter performs songs from her new album Something's Changing accompanied by the artist's short documentary on the rooftop of Heaven at ZEN. Sep 22, 9pm. CentralWorld, 4, 4/1-4/2, 4/4, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-635-1111. B750. FUNGJAI
Rising indie bands Armchair, Safe Planet, Pongsit, Bomb at Track, Corncan and Kampee peform live. Tickets on bit.ly/2h1KK8b or B800 at the door. Sep 23, 5pm. Voice Space, BBD Building, 197 Viphavadi Rangsit, 02-261-3883. B500. LIFE IN COLOR
The "world's largest paint party" makes its Thailand debut with massive EDM DJs like Bassjackers, Andrew Rayel, Party Thieves, Technoboy, Wasted Penguinz, Ape Drums and Bonnie X Clyde. Sep 23, 4pm. Centerpoint Studio Thailand, 9, 11 Sukhumvit Soi 105, 02-361-9229. B2,200-4,000.
The Whitest Crow
AGAINST THE CURRENT
The American pop-rock band performs an intimate concert as part of its Asia tour. Limited to 300 tickets. Sep 26, 8pm. The Rock Pub, Hollywood Street, 93/26-28 Phaya Thai Rd., 02-251-9980, 086-977-0621. B1,200-1,500. BTS Ratchathewi. DREAM THEATER: IMAGES, WORDS & BEYOND 25TH ANNIVERSARY TOUR
The American progressive metal band celebrates the 25th birthday of its album Images & Words. Tickets available from Thaiticketmajor. Sep 27, 8pm. Thunder Dome, 99 Popular Rd., 02-504-5050. B2,000. 50 YEARS OF PREXIAYID
Rocker Pang Nakarin celebrates turning 50 with a concert. Sep 30, 4pm. Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular Rd., 02-833-4455. B1,000-3,000.
Paradise Bangkok
Cashmere Cat
Beam, the favorite nightclub haunt for Thonglor party-goers, will launch its own festival, Beamfest, over the space of two wild weekends on Nov 17-19 and 24-26. The entire 72 Courtyard mall, as well as Beam itself, will be transformed with multiple stages, pop-up bars and restaurants. The announced lineup so far includes pioneering English dubstep and garage producer Skream and Norwegian deep house DJ Cashmere Cat, HVOB (Austria), No Regular Play (US), Swindail (Australia) and Teenage Mutants (Germany). Thailand will be represented by The Paradise Bangkok Molam International Band, DNXTR, Ga-Pi and Beam resident DJs. But the event's not just for hardcore night owls— festivities kick off at 4pm each day, showcasing live art performances and some top picks from Bangkok’s food and drink scene, like barbecue specialist Smack N Smokes, hip tempura kiosk Batt Tempura, and Charoenkrung's brand new tiki bar Tropic City. They'll be joined by the likes of Brooklyn-born Yuji Ramen and Singapore’s Jigger & Pony (#21 in Asia's 50 Best Bars 2017 list). Earlybird tickets are available now via go.eventpop.me/beamfest2017 and B1,500 for single weekend (3 full days) or B2,500 for both weekends. See www.beamfest.com for the full line-up and more information.
THEATER
classical SHANGHAI PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA
One of China's top orchestras, conducted by Zhang Ling, perform "Overture to Candide" by Leonard Bernstein, "The Butterfly Lovers Violin Concerto" by He Zhanhao and Chen Gang, with a finale of "Symphony No. 9 in E Minor from the New World" by Antonin Dvorak. As part of this year's Bangkok's International Festival of Dance and Music. Sep 24, 2:30pm. Thailand Cultural Centre, Ratchadaphisek Rd., 02-2623456. B1,000-3,500. MRT Thailand Cultural Centre.
Torera
TWELFTH NIGHT OR WHAT YOU WILL
This take on the Shakespearean comedy classic follows the story of separated twins, accommodated by traditional Thai music. Through Sep 24, 2pm. M Theater, 2884/2 New Petchaburi Rd., 08-0260-0771/-6. B1,300-1,500. TORERA (SPAIN)
CONCERT Bruno Mars is coming back to Bangkok Bruno Mars is returning to Bangkok as the concert organizers BEC Tero announced on Sep 14. The American pop singer/songrwiter, who last visited in 2014 when he famously went shopping for bootlegs of his own CDs, will bring his 24K Magic World tour to Impact Arena on Apr 30, 2018. Mars will perform old hits alongside tracks from his third studio album, 24K Magic, which was released in November last year. The singer is best known for his old-school R&B, soul and funk music, with hits like "Just the Way You Are," "The Lazy Song," "Uptown Funk" and, more recently, "That’s What I Like" and "Versace on the Floor." Tickets go on sale this Nov 4 with prices starting at B3,500. Grab yours at Thaiticketmajor.
For the first time outside Spain, the Antonio Andrade Flamenco Company performs its new Flamenco dance, Torera. The performance tells a story of social conflict through the body movements of Ursula Moreno. Sep 22, 7:30pm. Thailand Cultural Center, Thiam Ruam Mit Rd., 02-247-0028, 0-2262-3191. B1,000-3,000. CARMEN (SPAIN)
One of the festival’s highlights sees the classic George Bizet opera about a Spanish woman’s intense love told by the Antonio Andrade Flamenco Company. Sep 23, 7:30pm. Thailand Cultural Center, Thiam Ruam Mit Rd., 02-2470028, 0-2262-3191. B1,000-3,000.
SHIANGHAI PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA (CHINA)
China’s leading orchestra visits Thailand to perform classics that include "Overture to Candide" (Leonard Bernstein), "The Butterfly Lovers Violin Concerto" (He Zhanhao and Chen Gang), and "Symphony No. 9 in E minor" ("From the New World") (Antonin Dvorak). Sep 24, 2:30pm. Thailand Cultural Center, Thiam Ruam Mit Rd., 02-247-0028, 0-2262-3191. B1,000-3,500. PETER MARVEY’S MAGIC SHOW (SWITZERLAND)
The world renowned magician and two-time winner of the International Magicians Society’s Merlin Award and Golden Magic Wand performs his tricks in Bangkok. Sep 28-29, 7:30pm. Thailand Cultural Center, Thiam Ruam Mit Rd., 02-247-0028, 0-2262-3191. B1,000-3,000.
BK Magazine Friday, September 22, 2017
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now ART
FILM
Opening (Sep 21)
NATALIA LUDMILA: DRAWN LINES
The Mexican artist explores the topic of migration through large-size watercolor paintings and a video piece made using Google Maps and crowd-sourced images. Sep 22-30, 6pm. Cho Why, 17 Soi Nana, Charoen Krung Rd.
PARP-PIM2 BANGKOK PRINTMAKING EXHIBITION 2017
Over 20 artists, including Beejoir, Alex Face and Glue Bag, present prints using etching, woodcut, lithograph and silk screen techniques. Sep 22-Nov 30, 10am. Kalwit Studio & Gallery, Wireless Soi 2 (Ruamrudee).
ZYNC: ART THESIS EXHIBITION
Students from Assumption University's Department of Visual Communication Design show off their work. Sep 22-24, 10am. Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC), 939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630-8. Free.
AMERICAN ASSASSIN (USA)
TULIP FEVER (UK)
Action/Thriller. CIA agent Mitch Rapp goes on a secret mission with a Cold War veteran and a lethal Turkish agent to stop a mysterious operative that can cause a World War in the Middle East.
Drama. Set in the Tulip mania of 17th century Amsterdam, the story follows an artist who falls for the married woman whose portrait he is painting.
SALES & FAIRS HOPE FAIR BANGKOK
This charity event in support of Mercy Centre, which helps children living in the slums of Klongtoey, promises products and services by 100 artisans, entrepreneurs and designers. Sep 28, 9am. Rembrandt Hotel Bangkok, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18, 02-261-7100. Free. MEET THE CRAFTERS: MARKETPLACE AND WORKSHOPS FOR CRAFTERS
Hope Fair Bangkok
Some of the city's top artisans and craftspeople, including Pure Luck Kombucha, R Studio, Simply Organic and Garden Atlas, join the Thonglor co-working space for workshops and a rooftop market. Sep 30, 11am. The Hive, 46/9 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02 662 6062. Free.
BABY DRIVER (USA)
BLOOD-C (JAPAN)
Action. A young getaway driver known as Baby (Ansel Elgort) wants to break from a life of crime after falling for a woman (Lily James), but that’s not so simple with work for a crime boss (Kevin Spacey) to finish.
Action/Drama. Set during prewar Japan, the story follows an intense battle between the Special Higher Police and villagers.
Upcoming (Sep 28)
SPORT FAMILY RUN
This charity run is limited to 1,000 pairs offering distances of 3 and 5km, starting from Ramathibodi Hospital. Registration required at bit.ly/2h2LIRC. Donation of B300 and gets you a free T-shirt. Oct 1, 6am. Ramathibodi Hospital, 270 Rama 6 Rd. Free.
BUSHWICK (USA)
THE FOREIGNER (CHINA)
Action. When a Texas military force attack Brooklyn, 20-year-old Lucy and a burly ex-veteran called Stupe form an unlikely alliance.
Action/Thriller. Jackie Chan and Pierce Brosnan star in the story of a father seeking justice for the death of his daughter in a terrorist attack.
FIT YOUR BONE RUN FOR HEALTHY BONE 2017
This charity run to mark World Osteoporosis Day offers 5, 10.5 and 21.1km distances. For more information, visit bit. ly/2y50ISY. Oct 1, 4 am. Rama VI Bridge. Free or B1,000 for VIP. RUN FOR DEK THAI 2017
A charity in 2.5, 5, 7.5 and 10km distances with money raised going to support Thai kids in need. Register online at bit. ly/2h2gQQR. Oct 1, 5am. Lumphini Park. B350-B1,000.
VICTORIA & ABDUL (UK)
LOGAN LUCKY (USA)
Drama. Based on the non-fiction book by Shrabani Basu, Queen Victoria (Judi Dench) strikes up a friendship with a young Indian clerk named Abdul Karim (Ali Fazal).
Comedy/Action . A family man who has just lost his job (Channing Tatum) teams up with his one-armed veteran brother (Riley Keough) to pull off a heist during a huge NASCAR race with the help of a professional bank robber (Daniel Craig).
SPECIAL SCREENINGS ALIVE AND KICKING
The Sathorn beer bar teams up with Documentary Club to host a screening of Alive and Kicking, a 2016 documentary delving into the world of swing dancing. There will also be a talk, workshop and beer tasting courtesy of Bridge Road Brewers from Australia. Tickets are B120. See bit.ly/2x21T5D. I Hate Pigeons, 34/2 Soi Sribumphen, Rama 4 Rd., 097-234-8067. B120.
DOCUMENTARY FILM NIGHT: RACING EXTINCTION
In this 2015 documentary, director Louie Psihoyos follows animal activists to draw attention to mankind’s role in the drastic loss of many of the world’s species. The screening starts at 7pm. Free admission for members and B150 for non-members. For more details visit www.fccthai.com/ items/2263.html. Foreign Correspondents' Club of Thailand (FCCT), 518/5 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-652-0580. B150.
CINEMA DIVERSE 2017: SOUND DESIGNING
Documentary Club screens David Lynch’s cult classic feature debut, Eraserhead (1977), which tells the surreal tale of a man trying to get by despite his mutant baby’s constant screaming, moody girlfriend and the surrounding industrial environment. The screening starts at 5pm followed by a discussion with sound engineer Noppawat Likhitwong. Entry is B60. See bit.ly/2xmiK5k. Auditorium, 5/F Bangkok Art and Culture Center (BACC), 939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630. B60.
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BK Magazine Friday, September 22, 2017
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