BK E-Magazine 748 Oct12,2018 by BK Magazine

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Botanical Kick Why vermouth will be your next drink of choice Street Smart Everyday Thai dishes that will destroy your diet BACC for Good The true story behind the art centerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finances Use Your Noodle The best instant Korean ramen revealed In remembrance of HM King Bhumibol NO. 748 OCT 12, 2018. www.bkmagazine.com

There's a plan to make Rattanakosin great again... but at what cost?

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10/4/18 7:46 PM

BK RESTAURANT WEEK GOT OFF TO A SMASHING START AT AESOP’S A

esop’s Greek restaurant kicked off BK Restaurant Week in style on Sep 6, when guests from all 60 participating restaurants and beyond were plied with delicious Greek food and cocktails, cries of “opa,” and plenty of plate-smashing (if you’ve been to Aesop’s, you’ll understand). Great craft brews by Beervana and wines and spirits by Pernod-Ricard did nothing to sober anyone up but everything to keep the party pumping. Thanks to our sponsors Citibank and Jasco. We’re sorry to say that you’re now too late to enjoy any of the incredible deals that Bangkok’s best restaurants pulled out for BKRW, but don’t worry—it’ll be back for 2019 and even bigger than this year. We can’t wait.

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page 3 Who's in charge? Managing Director & Publisher Andrew Hiransomboon Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Digital Director / Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Senior Digital Content Coordinator Nontaya Kumyat Digital Content Coordinator Pakchira Bunphol Writers Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj, Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley, Kankanok Wichiantanon

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 12, 2018

Big trouble without China

upfront

The fight to save BACC

Art Director Vatanya Bongkotkarn Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Graphic Designers Anunya Chobnitas, Wirankan Saiyasombut Photographer Poonsawat Suttama Video Content Manager Wanlop Rungkuvijad Video Designer Saranya Laowtrakul Videographer Nattapol Srisukh Junior Video Editor Pattanagorn Adirekkiat Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Sales Managers Tipkritta Chiraporncharas, Orajira Sukkasem Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Nattaya Bovornsettanon, Orakarn Laohakanjanasiri ASIA CITY STUDIO Managing Editor Dietrich Neu Associate Editor Sureepak Janyapat Senior Project Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Business Development Manager Rangsan Khamloi Assistant Art Director Ratchprapha Sunthornprasat Project Coordinator Sirinart Panyasricharoen Senior Developers Passzarkorn Youthasoontorn, Wasan Wangrach Writer-Translator Tripop Leelasestaporn Branded Content Writer Chakariya Cheewatara

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Will this plan make the Old Town great again?

SOIMILK Editor Nathapong Suppavatee Senior Writer Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan, Atiwat Uton Brand Manager Onwara Sittirug Sales Associates Prawpraew Pairohg, Kornkanok Sriwaranant Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Assistant Finance Manager Anchalee Limkhamduang Senior Accountant Maneeya Kanthongdang Accountant Manita Bangmoung Admin Executive Yaovaluck Srisermsri Contributors Angela Symons, Kathy MacLeod

Intern Petpailin Kirdasaeng Photo cover by Poonsawat Suttama

calendar

The Bangkok Art Biennale is finally here

Asia City Media Group Chief Executive Officer Greg Duncan (gduncan@asiacity.net) Director Gretchen Worth (gworth@asia-city.co.th)

12 travel

Where to find us!

The Asia City Media Group Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower 100 North Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 Email: bkmagazine@asia-city.co.th

Chiang Mai’s coolest street (and it’s not Nimman)

BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 24 times a year, twice a month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2018 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Media Group (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250

16 health

And you thought somtam was good for you?

get in the loop

bkmagazine.com

contest, updates, stories

he latest tourism stats show that the number of Chinese visitors to Thailand has dropped by 12 percent since August 2018. Despite Gen Prawit’s assurances to Beijing that Chinese tourists in Thailand are cared for more fondly than a Swiss watch collector’s delicate new timepiece, our friends from the PDRC are still concerned by headlines like “47 Dead in Tour Boat Tragedy,” “Tour Operator Leaves Chinese Visitors Stranded” and “Don Muang Security Guard Throws Punch at Chinese Tourist.” This spells disaster for our local economy—and not just for Red Sky rooftop bar. Who will Gucci sell embroidered white sneakers to? What will become of the crowd at Health Land? And won’t someone please think of the MCM backpack sales! Clearly, this can’t do—this won’t do!—and Thailand needs drastic measures to make the Chinese start flocking back in numbers that will once more make Don Muang Airport an impenetrable mass of flag-waving tour groups and studded black caps. Our Tourism and Sports Minister, Weerasak Kowsurat, thinks that double-entry six-month visas are the solution. But he also wears contrast collars in 2018, so what does he know? Instead, we’ve come up with some more practical measures to bring the Chinese back to Thailand. For starters, reopen Maya Bay immediately. That place has been closed for four months already, and any good marine ecologist will tell you that four months is more than enough time for a coral reef to recover from 18 years of rampant unregulated tourism. In fact, we don’t just propose reopening the beach. We say it needs a Starbucks and 7-Eleven. Secondly, do something useful with Bangkok Art and Culture Centre. Free, publicly funded art spaces have no place in Bangkok (see page 4). We should repurpose it into the venue for a visual extravaganza of light, sound and 3D graphics telling the tale of how Thais have kicked Burmese butt through the ages. That’s guaranteed to have the Chinese flooding back more quickly than you can say “zero dollar tour group.” And last but not least, MahaNakhon: now that King Power has taken control, it’s time to do something useful with that place and turn it into the world’s tallest dutyfree shopping center with even greater discounts for anyone holding a Chinese passport. We’re sure all the people who shelled out over B50 million for a luxurious Ritz-Carlton condo will love it, too. So there you have it, three simple measures that will remind the Chinese that Thailand is where it’s at. Remember, China, it was us who sent back the Uighurs. It was us who let you snatch Hong Kong book-sellers from Pattaya. And that time you pooped in the Chiang Mai moat—as if it never happened. Now show us the same respect and come back!

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taste test

neighborhood

The Korean noodle showdown

Chula’s reinvention of Sam Yan is here

10/5/18 6:48 PM

upfront

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 12, 2018

HOT OR NOT

SKY-HIGH JAY FAI

From cooking on the streets to serving the elites, Auntie Fai of Michelin crab omelet fame has created a new menu for Thai Airways first-and business-class passengers. Given the current queues over on Mahachai Road, a long-haul flight is probably the quicker way to try that rad na.

BACC director on the fight to save our art center INTERVIEW

Pawit Mahasarinand, 46, has been director of the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) for less than a year, yet he’s already fighting to save it from extinction. Back in May, the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration (BMA) announced their plans to take over BACC and turn it into a commercial enterprise. Although that particular plan since seems to have dissipated, the problems are far from over.

“ We are concerned that the electricity or water might get cut during Bangkok Biennale ” THAT’S WHAT SHE SAID

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Please explain to us the current situation. Between 2011-2017, 55 percent of our funding came from the BMA. Last August, the City Council requested that the BMA revise one point in our contract, as it made the funding seem illegitimate. Nothing has happened since. So, the B40 million we were supposed to get for 2018 went to the Office of Culture, Sports and Tourism instead, who have been paying the utility bills for us. The City Council then said doing this is even dodgier, so at this rate we will have no funding at all next year. People ask why the government can’t fund BACC with taxes. It’s like free buses, trains and footpaths—it should be a service that the government provides and that everyone’s entitled to, so why do we have to ask for help from citizens? We have been having problems since October last year but we have kept it quiet until now. We have 13-percent more people visiting, too, compared to the same period last year. How has BACC been handling it so far? We can’t fix the contract but we can keep pushing them. Our long-term goal is to set a new board of directors for BACC, since the previous board’s contract ended in March—we only just held a meeting for this on Sep 25, which involved a lot of people, and it will take a few more months to complete the process. Shortterm, we need to collect donations to help with the utility bills; watch our spending; and postpone any exhibitions that aren’t time-sensitive. We are trying to work with our private partners more, too, co-hosting events and expanding our network.

How much are your utility bills per month? Our water bill is around B25,000 and electricity is B600,000. We are considering shortening the opening hours by two hours per day, which should save around B90,000 per month. What do you think the future is for BACC? Shortening the hours would definitely affect the Bangkok Art Biennale. We have people flying in just for the event and we are scheduled to have the most artists and art pieces out of anywhere. We are concerned that the electricity or water might get cut during the show. How is art important to society? Art and science are equally important—they both link to our daily lives—though the Thai education system tries to separate the two. In the future, I want to bring more science to BACC. I also want to make people understand that they don’t have to study art to enjoy an art gallery, just as you can enjoy movies or novels. Do you think this is part of a political art censorship effort? Answering as director of BACC, I’d say I hope not, but if I answered as a normal Thai citizen, then I would say probably. Contemporary art is very democratic, people are allowed to criticize and think of it however they want. Since the coup, I’ve haven’t seen so many people from two [political] colors unite as they did at our Sep 26 press conference, despite us having hosted radically political exhibitions like Vasan Sitthiket’s back in March. Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj Bangkok Art and Culture Centre, 939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm

CULTURE As the city readies itself for the start of Bangkok Art Biennale 2018, it emerges that the event’s foremost exhibition space, the BACC, is so heavily underfunded that they can barely pay the utility bills. The BMA says it’s the government’s fault, and the government says “what’s an art center?” So if the lights go out during Marina Abramovic’s performance, don’t be surprised.

GENDER SEGREGATION The new MT Rollin Club (Soi Phraya Si, 061-6644969) offers a taste of life in turn-of-the-century England. Communication between the ladies-only Victorian-era tea room and the Italian Art Deco-style gentlemen’s club is allowed strictly by letter only—oh, the good old days. Next we’ll be represented by a 95-percent male parliament and be banning women from our top police aca… oh, wait.

B250 WATER We’re no fans of pricy water showing up unannounced on bills. It’s bad enough when it’s the fancy imported stuff, but a Twitter storm ensued this month after @trustaeng was charged B250 for a bottle of Crystal on Sukhumvit Soi 3. Inter-sleuths tracked the location to a club called G-Terminal. What’s the most you’ve ever been charged for water in Bangkok? Message us on fb.com/ bkmagazine.

by Kathy MacLeod (IG: @kathy_macleod)

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cover | old town, new tricks

SAVING RATTANAKOSIN the Tourism and Sports Ministry

Is the BMA’s plan for Rattanakosin going to create a hub of heritage and culture? Or does the Old Town need rescuing from its supposedsaviors? By Kankanok Wichiantanon

Ministry of Transport

n Aug 27 this year, the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration (BMA) announced plans to revive its Rattanakosin conservation and development strategy, written back in 1997. The plan would see full-force preservation efforts take effect in Bangkok’s “Old Town.” The BMA’s regular Old Town commentator, Sakchai Boonma, director of the Land Acquisition Division, Public Works Department, came out to make comparisons between Rattanakosin—the area of Bangkok home to the Grand Palace, Wat Pho, Wat Mahathat and other monuments—and the Champs-Elysees, the historic axis of Paris. But early warning signs show that the BMA’s idea of conservation may be at odds with existing communities in the area. Already, the controversial clearance of the Mahakan Fort community has seen old homes and trees bulldozed to make way for a sterile new public lawn unveiled to a chorus of social media groans in July—and Mahakan may just be the start. As state agencies, including the BMA, the Interior Ministry and Tourism and Sports Ministry, are relocated in order to preserve Rattanakosin’s “historic” status, is the area in danger of losing all sense of community in pursuit of a sanitized version of history? In charge of alleviating these fears are the academics of Chulalongkorn University’s Town Planning Department, who have been chosen to carry out the restructuring plan. Six years ago, they drew up the Bangkok Vision 2032 plan, an ambitious, 20-year running project to turn Bangkok into an even greater regional powerhouse with Rattanakosin’s historic status at its core. Here, we look at those plans and ask those involved: are we doing what’s right for Bangkok?

Local Perspective Here’s what those who live and work in Rattanakosin think about how their neighborhood is changing.

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BMA

ministry of interior

Island State What exactly is Rattanakosin Island? Bangkok’s first ever settlement, Rattanakosin Island dates back 230 years. The name “island” comes from the Chao Phraya River that runs along the area’s western border, and the Khlong Lot canal that completely rings its eastern perimeter. The area is home to over 51,000 permanent residents and over 19,000 homes. It’s also where Bangkok’s grandest historic monuments sit, including the Grand Palace, Wat Pho and Wat Mahathat.

“I’ve heard of the news for a while, but have not yet seen anything done to the area. I don’t think I’ll be affected. I can roll with change.” Boontun Chantaroeng, tuk tuk driver

“We have invested a great deal into our businesses in this area and fear that the development plan will affect us a lot. My brother who’s also a street vendor around the Ministry of Interior has already been affected. I’m quite sure the same will happen to me.” Amnaj Otatawong, street vendor

We used to have a big community until Mahakan Fort was turned into a park. It was hard see people you knew grew up here having to leave the area. They did get paid to leave, so that’s better than nothing. Sunthorn Pothong, former Mahakan Fort resident

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 12, 2018

Expert Opinion

What will happen to the area under the BMA’s plan? The Rattanakosin plan is not all about conservation of existing Bangkok monuments. Central to the current plans is also a raft of new constructions aimed at making the area more approachable and modern, as well as updates to existing structures. Here’s what:

The railway stations

To support better transportation to and from the Old Town, a total of three MRT lines will cut through Rattanakosin Island: the existing Blue Line (Hua Lamphong-Bang Khae, Tao Poon-Tha Phra), the Purple Line (Tao Pun-Rat Burana) and the under-construction Orange Line that will travel under the Chao Phraya River and link Siriraj Hospital, Sanam Luang and Democracy Monument in one route extending from the Thailand Cultural Centre to Min Buri. An expected three Orange Line stations will be located on Rattanakosin Island, in addition to four Blue Line stations.

Building structures and architecture

Is this the right plan for Bangkok’s Old Town?

govern Ratchadamnoen Avenue, enforcing buildings to conform to an “old European” style of architecture in either light gray or yellow with roofs in a single shade of red-brown.

Dr. Siriwit Issaro

The Chao Phraya Riverside Promenade

Assistant to the Bangkok Vision 2032 project consulting team “The Rattanakosin conservation and development strategy is part of the 2032 project to develop culture and innovation over a 20-year development plan. Bangkok Vision wants to turn Bangkok into a travel center of Asia and to change the face of Rattanakosin town into a nicer, structured area. But to make it like the Champs-Elysees might not be as easy. We have to admit that there's still quite a lot that has to be done to make this project really work, like how we still lack discipline and how the climate here isn't exactly like that of Paris. Developing just an area but not as a whole, I think it will be hard."

Originally announced back in 2015, the controversial river promenade will run along both sides of the Chao Phraya River from Rama 7 Bridge (in the north of Bangkok above Chatuchack Market) to Phra Pinklao Bridge (located between Phra Sumen Fort and Sanam Luang parade ground in the Old Town). In July 2017, the government demolished 14 communities that stood in the path of the promenade, with residents relocated to new accommodation. According to The Nation, the Rattanakosin and Old Cities Conservation and Development Committee has proposed that the promenade be shortened from its total 14-kilometer length (seven kilometers on each side of the river) to stop far outside the Old Town at Bang Sue canal. The BMA has yet to announce its conclusion.

According to the Town Planning Department, strict building control for high-rise construction will remain in the area, which stipulates stringent height restrictions. In addition, new structural regulations will

Is anything being moved out of the area? Government agencies

To comply with the BMA’s historic vision, several of its own agencies are being relocated from Rattanakosin to other parts of the city. The BMA is to move to the Din Daeng area, while its old building will be turned into a museum. The Ministry of Interior will be combined with the Royal Irrigation Department located in Pak Kret, Nonthaburi. The Ministry of Transport is to move to Bang Sue district and the Tourism and Sports Ministry to the Government Complex Chaengwattana together with the Department of Tourism. But with so many jobs moving from the area, the plan has the potential to endanger businesses that rely on daytime trade, such as food vendors.

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Mahakan Fort

Open since the evening of Jul 24, Mahakan Fort Park is the end result of a 59-year-long dispute between the local Mahakan community and the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration (BMA). After years of protests and refusals, the last of the residents—who claim their family lineage in the neighborhood dates right back to the early Rattanakosin Era, during the reign of King Rama III (1824-1851)—were evicted from the area in April 2018. This paved the way for the BMA to spend B69 million on launching a new public park. The dispute at Mahakan Fort dates right back to 1959, when the government bought back land from around Mahakan Fort in an effort to preserve the fort and its surrounding area from all but 11 owners who refused to sell. The model scheme to create parks in the Rattanakosin area came later, in 1978, followed in 1992 by the BMA’s royal decree to improve Rattanakosin’s urban planning—including the expropriation of land on which the Mahakan Fort community lived.

Dr. Amorn Wanichwiwatana Member of the Constitution Drafting Commission and lecturer at the Faculty of Political Science, Chulalongkorn University “The plan itself is great if thinking in terms of lighter traffic, clean structures and approachable ways of traveling. The only part that seems to be lacking about this whole plan is any mention about managing the high-rise condos along the Chao Phraya River that have been standing since before building regulation was taken seriously. I personally think that if the Rattanakosin development plan is really to be carried out, then just as the ministries are being moved out to have buildings in the area fit the same architectural style, then those condos should be no exception.”

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hit list | 10 new reasons to love bangkok

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 12, 2018

FITNESS

Good news for all fitness enthusiasts: the New York-hailing ClassPass is coming to Bangkok this October. Even prior to launch, you can register your interest on the website and enjoy free classes in the first month—available for a limited time only. Members will have access to thousands of classes at exclusive studios across Thailand, including muay Thai, Pilates, strength training, yoga, cycling, barre and more. While many Bangkokians may be more familiar with Singapore’s GuavaPass, another fitness subscription service that gives users access to a network of top workout studios, ClassPass actually started the whole fitness subscription model following its inception in 2013. Hailing from New York, ClassPass has more than 12,000 partners in over 50 cities worldwide, connecting members to a variety of fitness experiences at 10,000+ studios and gyms. Bangkok will be ClassPass’s latest expansion to Asia after its Singapore launch in August. Sign up now at www.classpass.com/try/bangkok to be among the first to find out the full details.

All-access fitness membership ClassPass is coming to Bangkok

NUMEROLOGY

Super-luxury mall IconSiam announces November opening—here’s what we know so far: B54 billion The cost to build the mega project.

750,000 sq meters

The land this new development will take up.

3,500 The number of seats in the “True IconSiam Hall” auditorium/exhibition space.

500

The estimated number of shops it will house, including Takashiyama department store, Thailand’s first Apple Store, the Nike Kicks Lounge and Adidas Originals (both reportedly the largest in Southeast Asia).

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FASHION

COSMETICS

TECH

02 Chanel to showcase its

03 Shine bright like a

04 Meet GoPro’s ultimate

spectacular Cruise 2019 collection in Bangkok

diamond with Rihanna’s new collection

French fashion house Chanel is bringing its epic Chanel Cruise 2019 collection to Bangkok this October, after past years’ events in destinations like Singapore, Seoul, Tokyo and Dubai. Set to take place somewhere along the Chao Phraya River on Oct 31, the show will be a reimagining of the original spectacle which debuted at Paris’s Grand Palais in May. The event will feature the 330-foot-long “La Pausa,” a grand ocean liner named after Gabrielle Chanel’s villa on the French Riviera, which will serve as the backdrop for the shows.

It’s been one year since Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty took the cosmetics world by storm, and to celebrate, the brand has released the Diamond Anniversary Collection, a tribute to Rihanna’s song “Diamonds.” Comprising of Diamond Milk (B830), a pearlescent version of the original lip gloss, and Diamond Bomb All-Over Diamond Veil (B1,500), a jelly-powder highlighter, this collection will make you look and feel like a million bucks in all your sparkling glory. Available at Sephora. www.sephora.co.th

Shop Talk How to spend your hardearned baht.

BUY IT DKNY “JAXONE” MINI CROSSBODY BAG Rock the mini bag trend like a street style star (B10,900).

BIN IT SILICONE WRISTBANDS We don’t get why this fad has become a mainstay.

action camera

What: GoPro Hero 7 Black Price: B14,500 Who’s it for: Adventurous social media aficionados. Why? GoPro’s new flagship replaces the discontinued Hero 6 Black. “Hypersmooth” electronic image stabilization is said to be a vast improvement on all previous models. The result? Smooth handheld footage that’ll look like it was taken from a stabilized gimbal. It’s also the first GoPro that can livestream to Facebook and YouTube, plus you can shoot time-lapse videos with the new “TimeWarp.” Available at 4/F, Power Buy, CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-646-1241. Open daily 10am-10pm.

BARGAIN ARCHIBALD SHOES TASSEL LOAFERS This Thai brand’s Obsidian Black and Madison Brown moccasins (B3,500) look so good, people will think you’re wearing Italian.

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fashion | menswear

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 12, 2018

Best Foot Forward

hen it comes to men’s dress shoes, top international names like Santoni, Church’s or Berluti may spring to mind, but why not keep it closer to home and give these Thai shoe labels a try? Here, we've picked five solid options that will help make you look like a million bucks without the hefty price tag.

Archibald’s Shoes What: Easy-to-wear classics like penny loafers and tassel loafers. Made as they should be with gleaming real leather and a nicely rounded tip, these versatile shoes can be dressed up or down, with or without socks and still look good. Go for the Obsidian Black or Madison Brown moccasins, which have a genuine leather outsole and cushioned insole—all for a Gucci-busting B3,500. Prices: From B3,400

Go local with these five Thai men’s leather shoe labels. By Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley

Selvedgeworks, Siam Square Soi 2, Rama 1 Rd., 089-12-0220. Open daily 12-9pm. www. fb.com/archibaldsshoes

Mango Mojito What: Superb quality classic gentlemen’s shoes in four different lines: the “Classic Collection,” a modern reinterpretation of men’s traditional shoes—think patent tassel loafers; the “Italian & Goodyear Welted Collection”—Oxfords, wingtips and Penny loafers made with premium full grain Italian leather using Goodyear Welt construction; the “Masterpiece Collection”— high-quality Italian-designed calfskin shoes; and lastly, their casual “Mojito Loafers” collection. You can also go custom with a choice of colors, leathers, shoelaces and more. Prices: From B4,450 for classic dark brown Penny loafers to B13,500 for double monk strap pebble grain leather shoes. Mango Mojito

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Siam Square Soi 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1435. Open daily 12-9pm. www.mango-mojito.com

Smith & Sons What: High-quality handcrafted leather dress shoes made from the finest imported leather, from killer loafers and Oxford captoes to double monk straps polished to mirror-like perfection. They also offer a custom-made service, so you can bring your own unique designs to life. Prices: From B4,900 for genuine leather Oxfords and Penny loafers to B40,000 for crocodile skin German-welted double monk straps. 1328/123 Chartnakorn Soi 3, Sukhapiban 1 Rd., 085-319-0708. Open Tue-Thu 3-10pm, SatSun 12-10pm. www.smithandsonshoe.com

London Brown What: Classics that nail those understated contemporary tweaks, from Oxfords, loafers and double monk straps to derbies, leather sneakers and Chelsea boots. While we really like the “Carter” (B3,990)—the brand’s own playful reinterpretation of the classic dress shoe—their proper yet badass “Philip” Chelsea boots (B6,250) are the winner. Prices: From B3,590 for leather sneakers to B6,250 for Chelsea boots and the Prada-inspired platform derby shoes. Siam Square Soi 2, Rama 1 Rd., 086-3321544. Open daily 12-9pm. www.fb.com/LondonBrownShop

Thai Shoes What: This Old Town mainstay won’t be found in luxury malls like Siam Paragon but it has stood the test of time—70 years, to be exact— thanks to high-quality, traditional, made-to-order, real-leather footwear, sold at a super-affordable B580. The friendly 76-year-old owner-slash-tailor also offers free repairs. Prices: From B580 for dress shoes to around B900 for leather boots. 1370 Charoenkrung Soi 42, 02-234-8976. Open Mon-Fri 7am-6pm, Sat 12-6pm. www.fb.com/ thaishoesonline

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 12, 2018

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hit list | calendar Nightlife

rhythms to the dancefloor. Oct 25. Mustache Bar, 544/5 Ratchadaphisek Soi 7, 081844-7080. Free.

The “biggest art event of the decade” is finally here

KEY TO HAUNTED HOUSE WITH SULLIVAN KING Celebrate Halloween early on a special “haunted house” dance floor with DJ Sullivan King, whose dubstep, trap and hard trap sounds have graced renowned festivals like Lost Land, Ever After, and Hard Summer. Oct 12, 7pm. Beans, 217 Soi Sukhumvit Soi 63 (Ekkamai), 02-711-6564. B500 on Eventpop. CONFLAKES X BLAQ LYTE PRESENT TENNYSON LIVE The Canadian sibling-duo will bring their electronic sounds to Bangkok for the second time in support of their latest EP Uh Oh! Oct 14, 8pm. Rockademy, A-Square, Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-261-3833. From B650 on TicketMelon.

ART

Between Oct 19-Feb 3, Bangkok Art Biennale will transform Bangkok galleries and ancient monuments like Wat Arun and Wat Pho with contemporary art exhibitions from artists both local and international. There are 20 venues to visit presenting works from many renowned artists, including the iconic polka-dot pumpkin installations of Japanese octogenarian artist Yayoi Kusama, at Siam Paragon and Centralworld; long-duration performances by the institute of Golden Lion-winner Marina Abramovic; a piece by American legend Jean-Michel Basquiat; and work by Scandinavian artist duo Elmgreen and Dragset at the riverside East Asiatic Company building. Some 36 Thai artists will also be represented at the four-month-long event, including highly established names like Sakarin Krue-on, known for his elaborate large-scale sculptures, and performance artist Chumpon Apisuk, as well as rising forces Kawita Vatanajyankur and Latthapon Korkiatarkul. More information about works, venues and artists on www.bkkartbiennale.com.

ART

06 Biennale not enough to pique your senses? Head to Ghost:2561 Until Oct 28, Bangkok-born, New York-based artist Korakrit Arunanondchai is back, curating Ghost:2561—a new video and performance art series that will take place in Bangkok every three years. If his noise, dance and audience participation-fueled 2016 show is anything to go by, it’s sure to be a sensory explosion. An international lineup of artists will exhibit in venues across Bangkok, featuring video installations from internationally lauded Thai director Apichatpong Weerasethakul, and work by the visionary Californian performance artist known as boychild. Venues and artist lineup on ghost2561.com.

boychild

ART

07 Kygo is bringing his chart-smashing

tropical house music to Bangkok

The Norwegian EDM producer, songwriter and musician known for his euphoric brand of “tropical house” is headed to Bangkok in support of his second full-length album Kids in Love, released late last year. The 26-year-old shot to fame back in 2013 following his remix of Ed Sheeran’s contribution to The Hobbit’s movie soundtrack, “I See Fire.” Since then, his smash club hits like “Firestone” have racked up an astounding 569-million hits on YouTube. B2,500-5,000 on Thaiticketmajor. Oct 22. Live Park Rama 9, 065-509-9080.

Kygo

BLAST SESSIONS PRESENTS ADIERO + NUKIER This Bangkok-based Spanish duo come together to host a night of electro. Oct 14, 10pm. Glow, 96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 086-614-3355. B250 (includes one drink).

A TRIP TO VENUS Cocoon Records presents six female-fronted bands, including Comet Records experimental electronic duo Ten Layers of Air, and Bangsue Electrix, headed by female rapper Sunti. Oct 20, 7pm. De Commune, 1/F, Liberty Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 088-419-7380. B300 (includes one drink).

TLT PRESENTS BRYAN KEARNEY The Irish DJ/producer will bring his uplifting trance and EDM to RCA’s Live Arena. Oct 20. Royal City Avenue (RCA). From B600 on TicketMelon (includes one drink).

CHRISTIAN BURKHARDT The German producer will bring dance and electronic

GLOBAL VIBES THURSDAY WITH KANEHBOS A night of music traversing South East Asia to the Middle East, led by DJ Kanehbos of Zudrangma Records/ Toprock Thailand. Oct 25, 9pm. Studio Lam, Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661. Free.

Art

FLESH INTOLERANCE - DEATH ORGONE EXHIBITION Through collages of vintage medical textbooks and encyclopedias, this exhibition seeks to unearth the hidden meanings behind our subconscious desires. Canadian multimedia artist Frederick Maheux uses found footage, obsolete technologies and noise in his work. Oct 12, 6pm. Maison Close BKK, 97/399 Charoen Krung Soi 45.

NAHOKO KOJIMA Japanese paper cut master Nahoko Kojima unveils her Shiro sculpture, cut by hand out of single sheets of Japanese washi paper, filling a space over 20 meters in length. Through Oct 13. BACC, 939 Rama 1 Rd. WANDERING IN PORTUGAL BY RUI PALHA Portuguese photographer exhibits his street shots. Through Oct 31, 6pm. House of Lucie, Ekkamai Soi 8, 095-478-9987.

PIRUW A photo exhibition exploring mystical and magical stories from the remote corners of ancient Peru. Organized by the Embassy of Peru. Through Oct 31, 7pm. House of Lucie, Ekkamai Soi 8, 095-478-9987.

MICHAEL KVIUM | ART ME Admire life-size oil paintings of bizarre characters that explore the dark side of humanity through contrast, ridicule and distortion. Through Nov 17, 6pm. Tang Contemporary Art, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-652-2732.

UPCOMING

DON’T MISS THESE MAJOR INTERNATIONAL ACTS COMING TO BANGKOK THIS OCTOBER

SAM SMITH The Grammy Award-winning British crooner makes his Bangkok live debut on the back of his latest album The Thrill Of It All, bringing hits like “Lay Me Down” and “Stay with Me.” B2,0006,000 on Thaiticketmajor. Oct 28, 8pm. Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular Rd., 02-833-4445.

Charlie Puth Sam Smith

Calendar 748_Oct 12_18_NEW.indd 12

CHARLIE PUTH As part of his Voice Notes tour in Asia, American pop singer Charlie Puth will perform funky-pop beats like “Attention” and “How Long,” taken from his recently released second album, Voicenotes. B1,800 on livenation.asia. Oct 29, 7:30pm. Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular Rd., 02-833-4445.

KHALID Presented by BEC-Tero Entertainment, the “Young Dumb & Broke” singer will perform his 2017 American Teen album, featuring R&B-infused hits like “Location,” which peaked at number 16 on the US Billboard Hot 100. B1,800-2,800 on Thaiticketmajor. Oct 31, 7pm. GMM LIVE HOUSE @CentralWorld, 8/F, 999/1 Rama 1 Rd.

Khalid

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 12, 2018

Four Tet and DJ Nu-Mark to join Bangkok celebration of molam music

ECSTASY OF TRUTH BEYOND BLISS Part of Bangkok Biennale, Thai oil painter Kannika Jansuwan will exhibit works exploring emotions, sensations and the animal spirit, accompanied by the surreal and sometime grotesque images of Russian photo artist Olga Volodina, whose work explores human nature, from the hypocrisy of modern society and our social media addiction, to religion, politics, and environmental issues. Oct 20, 5pm. Sathorn 11 Art Space, 404 Sathorn Soi 11.

Live Music

NIT FEST A showcase of eight Thai bands, traversing the Alternative rock of Sunrise, Moon Bright, to the reggae sounds of Rootsman Creation and the psychedelic rock of Dara Rasmi. Oct 13, 3pm. Brownstone Studio, 1395 Sukhumvit Soi 77, 087-703-0448. B399.

LIVE MUSIC

Nov 23-24 will bring The Celebration of Molam Sound to Central Embassy’s fifth-floor Siwilai City Club (5/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5631). This two-day party devoted to Thai funk music will welcome esoteric British DJ and producer Four Tet (Nov 23), and DJ Nu-Mark (Nov 24) of L.A.’s old-school hip-hop crew Jurassic 5, alongside Paradise Bangkok Molam International Band and Toomturn Molam Group. On top of the music, they’re promising a pair of Isaan-inspired dinners from chef Chalermpon “Van” Rohitratana (Rarb and DAG) and Weerawat “Num” Triyasenawat of Samuay & Sons in Udon Thani (B2,300 or B3,500 with Johnnie Walker whiskey pairing). Early bird tickets are B890/day on TicketMelon.

JAM FEST Presented by Jameson, the festival will feature Flure, Noi Pru, Monotone, 2 Days Ago Kids and many more. Oct 27. Voice Space, BBD Building, 197 Viphavadi Rangsit, 02-261-3883. From B700 on Eventpop.

Sport

CONCERT

UPCOMING

09 Pop fanatics will love Spotify’s upcoming live event

10 Japanese psych-rock legends

Spotify on Stage will be the first live music event in Thailand hosted by the music-streaming giant. The pop-friendly lineup will be headlined by Alan Walker, the hoodie-loving Norwegian-British producer of the 2015 mega-smash single “Faded,” and British pop singer Anne-Marie, with her nostalgia-laced earworm “2002.” K-Pop sensation Eric Nam and Thailand’s own Slot Machine and Wonderframe will also be playing. Oct 20. Centerpoint Studio, Sukhumvit Soi 105 (Lasalle), 02-361-9229. B300 for Premium subscribers / B500 for Free users on the spotifyonstage.com.

More good news for underground music fans, as this Nov 22-25, the debut Sukhum Music Festival will be bringing together venues including 12 x 12, De Commune, Live Cube (Okinawa Kinjo), Thonglor Art Space and Case Space Revolution (Broccoli Revolution) for three days of weird and wonderful sounds. Among the international headliners are Japan’s cult psych-rock outfit Acid Mothers Temple & The Melting Paraiso U.F.O.; Finnish saxophonist and electronic musician Jimi Tenor; and some of Bangkok’s most exciting underground musicians: Stylish Nonsense and Cut the Crab, to name just two. Three-day tickets are B2,000 via the event page: www.fb.com/comeonissuchajoy.

play underground music fest

ASA RUN 2018 A run offering three and ten kilometer distances, starting from the Ministry of Public Health Nonthaburi. Entry B500 on www.asarun.com

Ballet

A MIDSUMMER NIGHT’S DREAM, KARSRUHE BALLET As part of Bangkok’s International Festival of Dance and Music, one of the leading classical ballet companies in Germany will perform a

rendition of Shakespeare’s famous play, bringing together dancers from 14 different countries, choreographed by Youri Vámos. B1,500-4,000 on bangkokfestivals.com. Oct 14, 7:30pm. Thailand Cultural Center, 14 Thiam Ruam Mit Rd. 02-247-0013.

CLASSICAL GALA BY SOLOISTS OF KARLSRUHE BALLET This star-studded gala features the best soloists of Germany’s acclaimed ballet company performing extracts from various classical ballets by some of the world’s top choreographers, including John Cranko, Frederick Ashton, Sir Kenneth MacMillan, Thiago Bordin and Christopher Wheeldon. B1,500-4,000 on bangkokfestivals.com. Oct 15, 7:30pm. Thailand Cultural Center, 14 Thiam Ruam Mit Rd. 02-247-0013.

Dance

BORN TO DANCE A dance extravaganza created by the award winning Spanish group, Los Vivancos. Tap-dance, humour, martial arts, and aerial-performances will converge with flamenco, symphonic, metal scores and live musical interpretations of hits from legends like Metallica, Deep Purple, and Leonard Cohen. B1,000-3,000 on bangkokfestivals.com. Oct 18, 7:30pm. Thailand Cultural Center, 14 Thiam Ruam Mit Rd. 02-247-0013.

Concert

BRUNO MAJOR The British songwriter, producer and artist, known for soulful and romantic pop tracks like “Easily” and “Just the Same” comes to Bangkok. Tickets B850 on TicketMelon. Oct 20, 9pm. NOMA, RCA Block C, 21/66 Rama 9 Rd., 080-939-7899.

ADOY K-indie chart topper to play live in Bangkok . Oct 27, 7pm. Rockademy, A-Square, Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-2613833. Sold out.

DINING

EAT YOUR HEART OUT WITH DINNERS FROM PROLIFIC MICHELIN CHEFS Alain Passard

Calendar 748_Oct 12_18_NEW.indd 13

Stephane Buron

Five visiting chefs, eight Michelin Stars, and over B30,000 worth of dinners come to town starting this month. Firstly, acclaimed French chef Alain Passard, of three-Michelin-starred l’Arpege in Paris, will be dropping by Issaya Cooking Studio (Central Embassy, 1031 Ploenchit Rd., 02-160-5636) between Oct 27-28 for a 10-course dinner (B9,900 or B12,500 with wine pairing), which is set to include some of his most influential dishes, such as the classic l’Arpege Egg.

Next in line, French M.O.F. award holder Stephane Buron, of the Alpine two-Michelin-starred Le Chabichou, will be hosting four days of set lunches (four-courses, B3,500 or B5,000 with wine-pairing) and dinners (seven-courses, B6,500 or B8,500 with wine-pairing) between Oct 31-Nov 3 at Vie Hotel Bangkok (117/3940 Phaya Thai Rd., 02-309-3939). As if that’s not enough, W Bangkok’s The Dining Room at the House on Sathorn (106 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-4000) has secured chef Dani Garcia of Marbella,

Spain’s two-Michelin-star Dani Garcia Restorante. Garcia won’t be cooking alone. Instead, the B9,900 nine-course menu (Nov 2-3) will be made in collaboration with The Dining Room’s Fatih Tutak. Lastly there’s another four-hands dinner, this time at Grand Hyatt Erawan’s Tables Grill (494 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-2541234), where head chef Hans Zahner is joined by chef Hideaki Imahashi and patissier Shoko Hirase from L’aube Restaurant in Tokyo (one star). The sixcourse dinner on Nov 3-4 costs B5,900.

10/5/18 7:20 PM

travel | chiang mai

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 13, 2018

Retail Therapy This area is packed with boutiques selling local crafts, antiques and souvenirs. Similar to Bangkok’s Jim Thompson House, Vila Cini (30-34 Charoenraj Rd., 053-246-246. Open daily 8:30am-9pm.) takes over a stunning teakwood house, featuring a great selection of well-crafted textiles and silks—mostly from high-end brands like Living Space, Nova and Ginger— plus Chinese and Thai-Lanna antiques. For fun, unique and creative locally handcrafted jewelry, head to Crafitti (173 Chareonraj Rd., 086-506-6244. Open daily 11am-7pm.), or to explore an array priceless treasures, from locally-made textiles and art to ceramic works, check out Tree House (152 Charoenraj Rd., 053-245-965. Open daily 8am-6pm.) If you’re tight on time, head to The Gallery (25-29 Charoenraj Rd., 053-248-602. Open daily noon-11pm.), an all-in-one spot for souvenirs, arts and crafts that has its own onsite Thai restaurant, all housed within a unique wooden house dating back to the late 1800s.

Down by the River

Temple Hopping

Sala Lanna

The eastern bank of Chiang Mai’s Ping River is flanked by one of the city’s most historic neighborhoods, Charoenraj Road. Home to a diverse mix of ethnicities—Thai, Indian, Chinese, Burmese, Pakistani— this culturally rich community has harmonized around an old-school vintage vibe, a little different to Nimmanhaemin’s modish hipster feel. Try out a slower pace of city living this winter with our neighborhood guide. By Kankanok Wichiantanon

Travel 747_Oct 12_18_NEW.indd 14

Central to the community, Wat Ket Karam (Charoenraj Rd., 053-243-550. Open daily 9am-4pm) played an integral historical role as a boat landing for those incoming from Rattanakosin (Bangkok); now, it serves as a prime example of the architecture of the Sam Fang Kaen era (1401-41) and a haven for dogs—its dedicated animal. Located close by, the Sri-Guru Singh Sabha Temple, founded back in 1909, represents Chiang Mai’s first Sikh temple (134, Charoenraj Rd., 053-246-537. Open daily 7am-5pm).

Local History Around the back of Wat Ket Karam, don’t miss the century-old ex-monk’s residence that now plays host to Wat Ket Karam Community Museum (Charoenraj Rd., Wat Ket, 053-248-604. Mon-Sat 8am-4pm. Free entry), providing a glimpse into Chiang Mai’s rich past with its collection of local artefacts and antiques, including old photographs, plus Chinese, Burmese, and Thai artwork.

Spa Time Inside the boutique resort of the same name, RarinJinda Wellness Spa (14 Charoenraj Rd., Wat Ket, 053-247-000. Open daily 9am-midnight) offers a variety of treatments ranging from traditional Thai massage to aromatherapy and hydrotherapy—try the 60-minute Splashy Vichy Massage, which sees your whole body massaged by warm jets of water.

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travel | tk Gallery Hopping At The Meeting Room Art Cafe (89 Charoenraj Rd., 080627-9219. Open daily 10am-8pm), the gallery showcasing local artists is almost secondary to the meeting space in which it is housed, where artists and visitors gather to talk about music, art, life—you name it—often with a cup of coffee and a fresh pastry in hand from the in-house bakery, Melt Away. Just over the road lies the rustic Woo Cafe Art Gallery (80 Charoenraj Rd., 052-003-717. Open daily 10am-10pm), where you can enjoy cake and coffee amid hanging ferns before shopping for handmade crafts and art from their rotating exhibitions.

Cafe Culture Head to Khagee (29-30 Chareoenraj Rd., 082-975-7774. Open Wed-Sun 10am-5:30pm) for fresh cakes and natural yeast bread baked onsite daily, where large windows and white-washed walls make for the ideal laid-back spot to while away an afternoon with a mellow caramel latte (B50) and an oozing custard bun (B55). Tea-fanatics can’t miss the kitsch riverside teahouse Vieng Joom On (53 Charoenraj Rd., Wat Ket, 053-303-113. Open daily

RarinJinda Wellness Spa

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 12, 2018

10am-7pm), which translates as “pink city.” Inside, feminine flowing drapery, hand-painted walls and floral pillows provide the perfect surrounds to enjoy a romantic pot of Love Tea and a sinful slice of blueberry cheesecake.

Where to stay

Culinary Adventures For a light bite, seek out John Wat Ket (across from Wat Ket Karam. 053–243-157. Open Mon-Sat 7am–4pm), a 30-year-strong family business that’s a must-hit spot for its steamed rice dumplings, which are filled with crunchy crushed peanuts, minced pork and pickled radish. For a late-afternoon glass of wine, head to riverside eatery and bar On the Ping (49 Charoenraj Rd., Wat Ket, 053-242588. Open daily 7am-11pm), which plays host to live jazz bands every Friday and Saturday and offers a menu of pleasing Thai and Western staples from the adjoining boutique hotel. For a relaxed, informal but seriously fun night out, check out The Good View (13 Charoenraj Rd., Wat Gate, 053-302-764, 053-241-866. Open daily 10am-1am). This Chiang Mai institution is a cavernous, semi-open-air bar-cum-restaurant-cum-live music venue that always seems to be bursting at the seams. Book early if you want to get a table out by the water.

Woo Cafe

X2 Chiang Mai Riverside Resort

X2 Chiang Mai Riverside Resort Situated right on the riverbank, this resort takes inspiration from Wat U-Mong, Chiang Mai’s Lanna-style temple known for its maze-like tunnels. Red brick walls and carved pathways blend with modern design elements and facilities like a pool, rooftop gym, and bar with views over Doi Suthep and the city. Its 30 rooms and suites start from around B7,000 a night. 369/1 Charoenraj Rd., Wat Ket, 053-931-999. Sala Lanna Chiang Mai Sala Lanna offers a peaceful riverside location with simple modern decor enlivened by Lanna textiles and wood furniture. While 15 rooms are available, the two-bedroom pool villa suite is the most impressive, offering glimpses of slow life on the water from its river’s edge perch. The scenic views continue at

the two onsite restaurants, Sala Lanna Eatery and Bar and Italia, while the al fresco rooftop bar takes it one step further with its panoramic views over Chiang Mai. Rooms from B3,173 a night. 49 Chareoenraj Rd., Muang, 053242-590. www.salaresorts. com/lanna Ping Silhouette Hotel des Artists This gorgeous modern-Chinoiserie-style riverside hotel plays host to an interior courtyard that looks straight out of China with its bonsai trees and pond.They also have a tea house and bistro offering Asian food, from stir-fried noodles with red date, to Taiwanese cheese bread and northern Thai nam prik noom (green chili paste). Rooms start from around B3,950. 181 Chareonraj Rd, Wat Ket, 053-260-666. www. hotelartists.com/pingsilhouette

10/5/18 7:22 PM

travel | news

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 12, 2018

CHIANG MAI

02 Graph Cafe’s new

opening feels like a home from home

Bargain non-stop flights to Milan with Air Italy

SARABURI

Sitting in a two-story concrete building on Thapae Road, Gateway Coffee Roasters (www.fb.com/gatewaycoffeeroasters) doesn’t look like much from the outside—once white, it has now turned a yellowish-brown with bits scraping off to expose the brickwork beneath. Inside, the raw and rustic theme continues, but they’ve spruced up the cafe and finished it off with comfy chairs, sofas and polished wooden flooring for a result that feels almost like an antique home—just with decent coffee and desserts on tap. Coming from the people behind much-loved Graph cafe, it’s no surprise that they’re creative with their coffee, using ingredients you never thought would work together—like the Hibernate (B145), a latte with orange pulp and honeycomb on a base of maple panna cotta. PHUKET

03 Crash out on a comfy 04 Enjoy the lap of

mattress at this riverside luxury at Phuket’s new house-cafe yacht show

MILAN

Good news for travelers seeking to make a beeline for Europe. Italian carrier Air Italy (formerly Meridiana) has launched four-times-weekly direct flights between Bangkok and Milan. With a journey time on the airline’s Airbus A330-200 of around 11 hours and 30 minutes, onward connections from Milan’s Malpensa Airport to neighboring Rome, Naples or Catania are a breeze, but you’ll want to stick around at least a little while to explore Italy’s fashion capital. Most importantly, we found return economy flights from approximately B16,000 in early December—leaving you with an extra B10,000 (or more!) spending money than if you’d gone with Thai Airways.

At Lom Bon Fook (www.fb.com/lombonfook)—which translates roughly as “falling on the mattress”—they encourage guests to hang loose and simply enjoy doing nothing, so don’t be surprised to see people crashing out on comfy mattresses all over the riverside deck, where a huge tree provides plenty of shade. Relax with a good cup of their signature toddy palm tea (B60) and a piece of mango crumb cake (B80). If the terrace is packed, which it often is on weekends, you can take your mattress into the minimalist white house-cafe or out in the surrounding gardens.

The Phuket Yacht Show will launch at Royal Phuket Marina between Jan 4-7, 2019. More than 50 yachts are expected to hit the water, with up to 120 exhibitor stands taking over the marina-side exhibition hall. As well as yachts, superyachts and marine-related services, the event will also showcase high-end properties, fashion, supercars and a range of food and beverages. Guests can also be shuttled to a superyacht display located at Koh Rang Noi, five minutes from the marina. For more information, and your chance to pre-register and avoid the queues, see www. phuketyachtshow.net.

2 GUIDES IN 1! BK Magazine’s most essential seasonal standalone guide yet • Newly revamped print, newly revamped digital • Reverse covers – one FOR MEN, one FOR WOMEN • BK Gift Guide online store with hundreds of perfect gift ideas • Launching 2nd week of December

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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 12, 2018

P.17 About ideas.indd 17

10/5/18 7:30 PM

food & drink | news

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 12, 2018

HOT OFF THE PASS

Notes from the Bangkok food scene

Ari’s new retro cafe is all about the mighty avocado

EAT, WORK, JOG, REPEAT ARICADO

Oh! Vacoda has created quite a stir after touching down in Ari last month. Since avocado is about the only so-called “superfood” that actually tastes good, we can see why. The jovial owners preside over a laid-back and friendly atmosphere in this cozy retro-style cafe, painted floor-to-ceiling in soft-peach. Being the committed avocado advocates that they are, the place runs under the concept of “nothing but avocado,” busting out simple dishes with added (read: avocado) surprises, like their pad kraprao with a side of deep-fried avocado encrusted in golden batter (B190) or the avocado-bacon pancake topped with a big, fluffy, cloud-like egg (B235). Be sure to check out the dessert section, which features colorful concoctions like the avocado cheesecake ice-cream sundae (B175) and chocolate bundt cake drenched in a thick avocado and dark cocoa powder ganache (B155). Even the drinks get a hit of the green stuff, like the Americado (espresso shot mixed with brewed avocado seed tea, B90) and the ultra-thick avocado smoothie, served in an adorable little bottle (B150). 1/1 Ari Samphan Soi 4, 090-986-4779. www.fb.com/ ohvacodabkk. Open Thu-Tue 10am-10pm.

SNAILED IT

PLAN AHEAD

BLAQ IS BACK

02 Some of Bangkok’s best tempura omakase just got better

03 Sra Bua and Issaya are teaming up for a one-time gastronomic dinner

04 The Blaq Lyte team is back in business

Ginza Tenharu, a tempura omakase specialist from the folks behind one-Michelin-star Ginza Sushi Ichi, just added a range of new produce to its chef’s selection menu. Most noteworthy is the awabi abalone tempura—fist-sized sea snails lightly battered and deep fried—which was brought in for customers who don’t eat beef or uni.

Ever wondered what goes on behind those kitchen doors? The upcoming collab between Asia’s 50 Best-listed Isaaya Siamese Club and one-Michelin star Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin might just be your chance to find out. On Dec 1, Sra Bua will host “Thai Gastronomy Series I,” a six-course Thai gastronomic dinner (B5,800 with wine pairing) that’s set to be filled with the restaurant’s signature theatrics and live cooking demonstrations for each course. It may seem a while off yet, but as a one-time event, early reservations are recommended (book via 021-629-000).

Exclusively for Citi credit card members: Get a complimentary special drink valued THB 900 when spending THB 5,000 or more /sales slip (limit 1 glass /card /table /sales slip) Today – 28 Feb 19

Susie Q, the much anticipated new Blaq Lyte venture, is now open for business. Taking over the unlikely digs of the old Susie Pub on Khaosan’s Susie Road, the guys have fought to maintain a classic ‘60s vibe with a giant disco ball, black and white photographs, plenty of red lights and old wooden seating. More in line with expectations, a hip-hop soundtrack prevails, while a significant drop in prices from the Thonglor days could well be enough to convince us to brave the tourist hotspot—here, you can bag a bottle of Beefeater gin for B1,400. 108, 5-6 Khaosan Rd., 026-292-474. Open daily 7pm-3am.

The far end of Asoke has been given new lease of life with the Singha Complex. Take a break from co-working with a visit to their lunchtime food court, rooftop mini running circuit, or one of the many restaurants, including yet-to-open Phuket Town, Ibiza’s Cafe del Mar, and Paris’ Gontran Cherrier Artisan Boulanger.

LET’S GET TROPICAL Tropic City’s tasty new cocktail menu is full of surprises, from the clear milk punch Tropicopop (B390), to the bone marrow- and caramelized pineapple-washed Bacardi Carta Oro of the throwback Bone Thugs-N-Harmony (B420). Head there before Oct 14 for bargain launch price of B950 for three—a saving of over B300 if you play it right.

HAPPY HUMP DAY! Every Wednesday through Oct 31, Pizza Massilia Sukhumvit has announced a buy-oneget-one free deal on selected drinks and pizzas, so head there between 6:30-8:30pm to beat those hump day blues.

YOU SAID WHAT?

This week in online foodie posts

Hit lists food and drink_BK748 Oct 12_18 02_NEW.indd 18

“Yen Akart is the new Thonglor.” YOO CHAISATITVANICH ON THE OPENING OF CACTUS

“Rolls eyes. OK. What is so special about that place apart from being able to make me nervous while drinking??”

“Takeichi ftw. Ippudo seriously overpriced and overrated.”

WIRANKAN JANTARACHIT ON BAMBOO BAR BECOMING THE FIRST THAI BAR TO MAKE LIST OF WORLD’S 50 BEST

TIM RUSSELL ON OUR BANGKOK’S BEST RAMEN STORY

10/5/18 7:34 PM

dining reviews Norang Narang HHH

Korean. 150 Narathiwat Soi 3, 097-001-5782. Open Mon-Sat 10am-10pm. BTS Chong Nonsi. BB-BBB

Norang Narang is a Korean hideaway amid the towering office buildings of Sathorn, serving up affordable spreads made for sharing in a quirky setting. Upon entering the box-like venue, you’re greeted by the sounds of sizzling meats and boisterous Korean dialogue—a good sign if ever there was one! The energetic owner, a Korean native, casts his watchful eye over the place as his attentive staff busy themselves seating newcomers, clearing tables and ferrying hot-stone grills to and fro. Atypical decorations like fairy lights, framed cartoon characters and stuffed dolls lend the place a warmth and playfulness not always associated with traditional Korean restaurants. The menu offers variety, if not an exhaustive list of Korean dishes, with familiar items like dolsot bibimbap (B199), kimchi soup (B199) and sweet and spicy fried chicken (B299) catching the eye. The latter goes great with a few shots of Chamisul soju (B250/bottle) or its sweeter,

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 12, 2018

peachy version, Chum-churum (B300). The flavorful bulgogi beef (B599) arrives sizzling on a hot stone with sapid samjang (spicy dipping sauce) and a basket of fresh green leaves. We also recommend ordering a couple rounds of the succulent kimchi dumplings (B149)—best dipped in soy sauce and eaten along with pickled radish. Other dishes don’t quite hit these lofty heights, due to flavors that are either a little too mild or unbalanced. The jajang tteokpokki (B179) is a non-spicy version of stir-fried rice cake that uses black bean paste as the base for its sauce. However, we can’t help but hope for something with more kick to go with the chewy rice cake. On the other hand, the kimchi jjigae (B199), which comes packed with vegetables and soft tofu, is just too tangy to be totally comforting. The owner says he makes all his own vegetable side dishes, and these indeed are a highlight of the meal. Compared to top casual Korean spots like, say, Banjoo and Ko Kung, Norang Narang perhaps falls short of nailing consistently rewarding flavors, but thanks to its fun, casual setup and caring service it’s a place where you really feel welcomed. This far from Sukhumvit, that’s probably the best you can hope for.

Ratings P Forget it PP Only if you’re in the neighborhood PPP A pleasant dining experience PPPP Not to be missed PPPPP Flawless

B BB BBB BBBB

Price guide Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up

BK pays for its meal and does not call ahead or sit with the chef.

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

Symbols Reservations recommended Parking Dress requirements Live music

H F E G

n w o d g n i Count est d l i w s ’ k Bangko spots night efin-

d ngkok’s a B r f o t r ars, bee b l i Be a pa a t k c of co ubs itive list top lounges, cl s. of bars, ro r hot nightspot e and oth

g n i m Co ! n o o S

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Dining reviews_BK 748_Oct 12_18.indd 19

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10/5/2561 BE 5:23 PM

10/5/18 7:37 PM

food & drink | open doors

The Front Room is a Michelin-baiting marriage of Nordic Thai flavors The buzz: Helmed by chef Rungthiwa Chummongkhon (formerly of Copenhagen’s Michelin-starred Kokkedal Slot and Noma), this inventive fine-dining spot at the new five-star Waldorf Astoria combines Nordic and Thai flavors with surprising results. The decor: High ceilings preside over a mix of lavish colonial design and streamlined Scandinavian interiors. Despite the grandeur, the space maintains a cozy and relaxed feel thanks to a dominance of warm cream tones and bronze light fixtures. The focal point of the restaurant is the long open-kitchen counter, where you can get a glimpse of cooking techniques you’ve probably never even heard of—like air-frying, where fish is suspended over the grill without making contact for a perfectly cooked result. The food: More than just plates of beautiful food, the 10-course tasting menu (B3,200) gives you the chance to experience a harmonious clash of cuisines. Squid is finely sliced into long noodle-like strips, soft and not remotely chewy, served in a flavorful chicken-cucumber broth—a dish inspired by Rungthiwa’s mom’s three signature Thai soups: cucumber, chicken and squid. The salad comes with

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fresh steamed crab hidden in a crisp wafer ring, topped with a hollandaise-based sauce—very modern looking, but one bite and you’ll instantly be transported to memories of a softly-spiced and creamy Thai crab curry. Here, most of the seasonal produce is locally sourced, except special imports like the scallops from the US and beef from Australia. The drinks: Every plate’s flavor is enhanced by a meticulous wine pairing (B2,100), featuring imports from France, Germany and Austria. Cocktails are also available, like the refreshing Saparot Essense that sees Chalong Bay rum mixed with fermented pineapple and Thai basil (B420). For non-drinkers, juice pairing (B600) is on offer. Why we’d come back: Every plate bursts with strange yet delicious textures and flavors before transporting us back to Thailand—we’re really excited to see what other surprises are in store as the menu changes with the seasons. Plus, we’re pretty sure Michelin will come sniffing around soon enough. Kankanok Wichiantanon

Waldorf Astoria Bangkok, 151 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-035-8108. Open daily 5:30-10:30pm

10/5/18 8:51 PM

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 12, 2018

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 13, 2018

The Key Room No.72

TABLE TALK

NEW AND NOTED

01 Ari’s got the key to good cocktails

02 Bangkok can’t get enough of charcoal

Check in to The Key Room No. 72 (72, G/F, Josh Hotel, 19/2 Ari Soi 4, 02-102-4999. www.joshhotel.com), a new speakeasy hidden within Ari’s boutique Josh Hotel that’s only accessible with a keycard from reception. Inside, the cozy 1920s-style bar is steeped in deep red and mirrors, with two small screens playing host to quirky movies like Amelie. Inspired by the owner’s travels, the cocktails are the real highlight—if you’ve had a hard day, go for the boozy Sazerac (B420), which combines Hennessy VS, Bulleit Rye whiskey, Angostura bitters, Peychaud’s bitters, a touch of syrup and a final spritz of absinthe for good measure.

Following in Thaan’s footsteps, Coal Bistro (38 Ratchaphruek Rd., 02408-8225) revolves around a custom-made charcoal grill, leading us to wonder: could this be Bangkok’s next big thing? The trek to far-out Ratchaphruek has been endorsed by Le Du’s chef Ton, who last month raved about the quality of the food and service on Instagram. Meat lovers are treated to grilled Australian wagyu (B1,000/330g), while seafood fanatics can try the Seafood Yuzu Plate (B390), in which cured salmon, calamari and grilled tiger prawns are accompanied by inventive dips like green apple and yuzu miso sauce and laab mayo.

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03 Charge up on caffeine before hitting JJ Market

Fuzio Café

Across the road from Chatuchak Park, the friendly Behind the Bar Cafe (1058/104 Phahon Yothin Rd., 080-071-2123) serves up espressos (B50), iced yuzu long blacks (B95) and matcha lattes (B65) as well as kitsch drinks like the strawberry and bubblegum-flavored Queen of Flamingo (B70). Inside, browns and oranges meet mellow blues for a chilled-out retro vibe—perfect for charging up before descending into Chatuchak chaos. Oh, and they go in for sustainability too, using biodegradable cups and straws, as well as offering a discount for bringing your own cup.

With a modern-industrial vibe from bare concrete walls, marbled tables and black dining chairs, this restaurant serves up Italian cuisine with Asian twists. Here, you’re spoilt for choice, whether it be plump Hokkaido scallops, Australian-imported black Angus, pan-seared pompano with green risotto and porcini lemon cream sauce, or a slow-roasted whole chicken with gochujang (Korean spicy sauce) and sweet potato. For dessert, choose the Waffle Berries—a big, chunky waffle served with vanilla ice cream, caramel sauce, and fresh berries.

2/F J Avenue, 323/1 Thonglor Soi 15, 098-283-6414. Open daily 11am-11pm. BTS Thong Lo

Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 25% discount for Australian Beef Tomahawk Tajima Wagyu for Citi ULTIMA, Citi Prestige, Citi Premier, Citi Preferred and Citi Select Today – 15 Dec 18 Get 10% discount on food only for all Citi credit card types Today – 31 Aug 19

10/5/18 8:52 PM

food & drink | taste test

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 12, 2018

Som Tam & Chardonnay

The Peacock Alley

NEW AND NOTED TABLE TALK

Patisserie Rosie 113/2 Thonglor Soi 10, 092-542-9900. Open Tue-Sun noon-9:30pm. BTS Thong Lo Situated in a shop-house decked out in vintage style, Patisserie Rosie serves classic desserts with modern twists. The highlights include a light chocolate tart—milk chocolate mousse packed with indulgent chocolate caramel cream—and the complex-flavored chocolate caramel with rich chocolate sponge and hazelnut praline. The ice-cream menu features classics like the intensely chocolatey Valrhona Dark Night, as well as some creative alternatives such as the black forest and brownie. Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get a complimentary ice-cream valued THB 109 when spending THB 600 or more /sales slip (limit 1 scoop /card /table /sales slip) Today – 28 Feb 19

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04 Cocktails for breakfast in Ratchadamri

05 This Thonglor spot offers a surprising pairing for somtam

06 Thonglor welcomes Latino party spot

Yes, we may not be able to stop going on about the new Waldorf, but there’s so much to say! Next in line is The Peacock Alley (UL/F, 151 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-846-8888), a lounge-slash-tea room that serves tea-infused cocktails (B420) from 9am (yes, that’s am) and afternoon tea (B950) from 1-5pm. If you’re looking for the perfect partner to your eggs Benny (B370), try the super-fresh Golden Gown, with Iron Balls Gin, white vermouth, peach tea and Gramona Gran Reserva Brut Cava. Filled with living room armchairs and cozy lamps, this is the perfect all-day hangout spot.

In a bid to turn something unheard of into a classic combo, the owners of Som Tam & Chardonnay (88/333 Sukhumvit Soi 55 [Thonglor], 020909-052) offer five variations of the papaya salad staple (B140-B270) alongside a number of wines. The East-meets-West approach doesn’t stop there, as elegantly presented Thai and Italian dishes like the homemade beetroot gnocchi with beef ragu (B570) and pomelo salad with grilled prawns (B290) are also on offer. Set on the 11th floor of Thonglor’s luxury boutique Akyra hotel, the space is bright and elegant, combining white marble and slate gray. A whiskey bar should also open next door in the coming weeks.

The name may be somewhat at odds with the glitzy surrounds of Thonglor, but Favela (Thonglor Soi 10, 093421-1991) promises to bring the fiesta with a dedicated soundtrack of urban Latin and reggaeton. Set in mixed-use mini-mall The Opus, you can groove on the all-white-andneon-lights dance floor, or chill on the balcony and watch the world go by with one of their signature cocktails in hand (B350). With promises of big reggaeton acts and Brazilian funk artists in the pipeline, watch this space!

10/5/18 8:54 PM

food & drink | taste test

Who makes the best Korean instant noodles? It may be frowned upon in other parts of the world, but there’s simply no hiding our obsession with MSG-laden instant noodles. Delicious and conveniently ready to eat within a matter of minutes, what’s not to like? Top of the charts, thick Korean noodles are best-loved for their chewy, springy texture and spicy sauce. We’ve tasted five of the most popular and here’s what we think about them. By BK Staff

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 12, 2018

Samyang Hot Chicken Flavor

Winner!

Nongshim Shin Cup Gourmet Spicy Pedas

Who: On noticing the Korean obsession with fiery spicy chicken, Samyang was first to the mark in inventing Korean instant noodles and maintains a leading position in the industry today. Taste: The sauce is flavorful without being overpowered by spiciness—just a great balance of salty and sweet. It blends seamlessly with the chewy noodles, too, though you can taste just a little of the potato starch contained in the noodles leaking into the sauce. Verdict: The hearty bowl. Price: B48

Who: Formerly named Lotte Food Company, Nongshim is now the biggest manufacturer of Korean instant noodles, shifting its products in over a hundred countries around the world. Taste: Similar to Paldo’s, the overall texture and taste of these noodles is pretty satisfying—thick and chewy with a relatively thin sauce that’s more spicy and aromatic than sweet. If you’re looking for a bowl of noodles with more of a kick, these could be for you. Verdict: The reliable bowl. Price: B45

Samyang 2x Spicy Hot Chicken

Mr. Bibim Korean Spicy Chicken Flavor

Who: As if their original hot chicken flavor wasn’t spicy enough, Samyang took it a step further and introduced the double chili kick, clearly intent on setting mouths on fire. Taste: The slightly sweet and creamy sauce has an eye-wateringly fiery kick and it clings well to the perfectly chewy yet soft noodles. While the noodles themselves don’t absorb much of the seasoning, they don’t get too dry, either. Verdict: The fiery bowl. Price: B48

Paldo Hwa Ramyun

Runner up!

Yuck!

Who: Meaning “stir” in Korean, Bibim is one of Nongshim’s many products, made especially for a non-Korean palate with its drier noodles and less peppery kick. Taste: These noodles are disappointingly thin— more on a level with typical instant noodles— meaning that although they still hold a little bit of chewiness, they are a little too soft. The sauce, however, tastes far worse—overly sweet, unrounded and not remotely fragrant. Verdict: The tacky bowl. Price: B45

Who: Formerly part of the Korea Yakult Company, Paldo was later rebranded as a separate business specializing in instant ramen, beverages and snacks. Taste: These typical, thick Korean noodles are chewy yet soft, with a mild sauce that has just a little bit of spiciness for an overall mellow taste. Verdict: The average bowl. Price: B38

: Spicy rating

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10/5/18 8:54 PM

drink | vermouth

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 12, 2018

A Cocktail in a Bottle Why vermouth coud be Bangkok’s next big botanical drinking trend. By Choltanutkun Tunatiruj

hat’s the secret to an amazing martini, Manhattan or negroni? Vermouth, and recently, the world has been waking up to the wonderful, rich and complex charms of this essential cocktail shelf staple—and not just as a mixer. Over in Europe, you’ll find vermouth—basically a fortified wine flavored with botanicals—served straight, on the rocks or even from taps. Classic Spanish tapas bars like Barcelona’s Quimet i Quimet are as famous for their fortified wine collections as their knock-out bar snacks, while hip London newcomers like El Vermut prove that vermouth has the depth to run with spirit big-wigs like whiskey and gin as a drink deserving its very own dedicated bar. As is so often the case, here in Bangkok we’re running a little late to the big vermouth party, but a number of importers, bar owners and mixologists have begun to introduce new vermouth labels to the local market, meaning there’s never been an easier time to stray from your standard Martini Rosso. “Good vermouth tastes like a wine cocktail poured from the bottle,” says Rapee “Kenneth” Sirisinha, head of spirits at B-Delicious. His company (which also graces us with the highly delicious Gin Mare) recently began importing Dolin, a botanical-laden fortified wine from France whose history goes back to 1815. “I figured that since I’ve been rambling on about cocktails since forever, I want to reintroduce to the public what has been here for so long and is very easy to enjoy as a cocktail from a bottle,” continues Kenneth. Herbs, seeds, roots and barks are all used in the vermouth-making process to add the kind of depth to fortified wine that you’d otherwise find in the most richly barrel-aged concoctions at a craft cocktail bar. Consequently, good vermouth doesn’t just taste great in your Manhattan—it’s also delicious served on its own.

“Wine is no doubt one of the biggest drink markets in Thailand,” says Kenneth. “The idea of drinking a vibrant, refreshing and aromatic wine with ice seems like a perfect way to enjoy this climate.” Also blessing us with new vermouth labels is Bootleggers Trading Co. (owners of The 88 and distributor of Plantation Rum), who bring in the Italian brand Mancino. The company’s founder, Minway Chi, explains why the market for vermouth is so ripe now. “Vermouth goes hand in hand with the recent gin trend,” explains Minway. “More vermouths are being imported into Thailand than ever before thanks to the gin renaissance that’s been going on for more than 10 years globally.” Why is that? Because, says Minway, the best gin cocktails need an equally good vermouth to complement the gin. “The martini recipe from the early 1900s even calls for a ratio of 50-percent gin to 50-percent vermouth. The result is greater than its parts. Gin brings juniper, pine, coriander spice and citrus, while vermouth brings body, complexity and bitterness.” Kenneth agrees. “The vermouth market is sure to kick off very nicely thanks to the global gin renaissance, which has opened people’s eyes to botanicals,” he says. Naturally, then, the best place for you to go sample the many flavors vermouth has to offer is at one of Bangkok’s growing number of gin bars. Try Teens of Thailand (76 Soi Nana, Charoen Krung Rd.), which has an excellent selection, as do Thonglor gin bar Just A Drink (44/3 Thonglor Soi 1) and the rooftop A Bar at Marriott Queen’s Park (199 Sukhumvit Soi 22). “While I don’t believe vermouths will be the next big trend, I do believe the gin trend will grow and vermouth will be right along side it, ” Chi concludes.

DRY VS SWEET

Know which style of vermouth you want Dry vermouth has less sugar and typically less spice than sweet vermounth. It's also what makes your dry martini, well, dry—meaning nonsweet. All dry vermouth is white, but not all white vermouth is dry. Blanc or bianco vermouth is noticeably sweeter with a nice acidity and some bitterness. Rosso (red) vermouth is always sweet and typically less bitter than white vermouth.

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TASTING NOTES

Here are four vermouths you’ll find on the local market that are guaranteed to give your cocktails some punch.

La Quintinye Blanc, B1,400

Dolin Rouge, B650

This is thought to be the first vermouth to be based on Pineau des Charentes (a French fortified wine). A base of white wine from the southwest of France is blended with 12+ botanicals for a very floral scent with notes of honeysuckle, lavender, lemon sherbet, ripe apple and cloves. Available at: Brand Connect (www.brandconnect.asia)

Dolin uses a blend of 54 botanicals and herbs, many of which are grown in the Alps. There are three labels in this range: Blanc, Dry and Rouge. The Rouge is the sweetest of the three, with notes of honey and brown sugar mixed with hints of raisin and chocolate-coated cherries. On the nose, it smells of sticky plum and dried fruit. Available at: B-Delicious (www.b-delicious.com)

Mancino Secco, B1,500

Antica Formula Carpano, B2,830

Infused with 19 botanicals, offering a full nose of Mediterranean herbs mixed with hints of lemongrass, dog-rose and iris, this vermouth has a crisp white wine taste with a bitter citrus finish. Mancino vermouth is made by Giancarlo Mancino, an Italian bartender and owner of Hong Kongbased bar and beverage consultancy firm GiancarloBAR. Available at: Godfather (081-8188758) and Warp (065-513-8399).

This red vermouth is made to an original recipe dating from 1786, which was the year that Antonio Benedetto Carpano created the world’s first recipe for red vermouth. It’s very rich with nice fruity notes and a spicy twang. You might also get hints of bitter chocolate or coffee mixed with orange peel. Available at: Godfather, Central Embassy (081-818-8758)

10/5/18 7:57 PM

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 12, 2018

INTERN WITH US! (MARKETING, EDITORIAL, ART AND VIDEO DEPARTMENTS.) You must be at least 18-years-old You must send in a cover letter and resume. Specify which department you are applying for.

Open to Thai and foreign nationals Internships are full-time, unpaid and last 3 months.

Candidates should be fluent in both Thai and English. Send your resume and a cover letter to jobs@asia-city.co.th

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10/5/18 7:59 PM

health

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 12, 2018

Unclean Eating These common Thai foods are deceptively unhealthy. By Jack Thomas*

angkok certainly doesn’t do us any favors when it comes to healthy eating. First of all, we’re subjected to tempting world-class cuisine on every corner—worse yet, we don’t even have the extortionate prices to deter us. Cue the violins. Despite our best attempts at resistance and healthy eating, our expanding waistlines show no signs of shrinking, so what gives? The truth is that food marketers are sinisterly adept at presenting calorie-dense meals as clean, guilt-free goodies, lulling us into a false sense of security. To help you navigate the clean-eating minefield that is our city, here are five everyday Thai foods that may appear healthy but are often packed full of sugar, oil and other ingredients that we should all probably be consuming less of.

Yaowarat Road

ROADSIDE JUICE

MEAT-ON-A-STICK

SMOOTHIES

What could be healthier than freshly squeezed oranges or pomegranate? Although it would be nice to believe that juice sold on the roadside comes purely from the fruits of the earth and the honest hands of those squeezing them, recent scandals and the lack of a regulatory body monitoring these products show that this often isn’t the case. If you want to ensure what you’re drinking isn’t dyed-orange sugar syrup, we’d recommend squeezing your own.

A favorite of low-carb dieters, grilled meat skewers can appear to be fairly healthy. However, the quality of the meat is often very poor, meaning it lacks the nutrition of, say, organic or pasture-raised meats. Thai meatballs use the term “meat” in the loosest sense of the word—they’re highly processed with many other ugly fillers and ingredients, so eat with caution.

Ever wondered why your fresh fruit smoothie tastes so good? It’s fairly common knowledge now that there’s probably more than just fruit in that shake. Just in case you missed the memo, if left to their own devices, your local smoothie provider will casually pour a generous serving of sweet, sugary syrup into your drink—perhaps with some condensed milk for good measure.

Healthy eating is all about balance, meaning no food is completely off limits when enjoyed in moderation. That said, deceptive foods that hide dark secrets can really disrupt your progress when it comes to keeping fit. Knowledge is power, so take the time to find out exactly what you’re putting in your body and you’re sure to reap the benefits.

MORNING GLORY SOMTUM On the surface, this tasty Thai classic appears to tick all the healthy boxes: fresh fruit and veg, chilis, garlic—what could go wrong? Try about five tablespoons of sugar and MSG. If you ask politely, your local somtam seller can make a healthier version, but be sure to watch them like a hawk before they go into auto-pilot.

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Like many Thai dishes (think pad kaprao and pad pak ruam mit), morning glory has all the hallmarks of a nutritious, balanced dish. While we could all stand to eat more greens, when they are drenched in sugary sauce and cooked in cheap oil, unfortunately much of their nutritional benefit is lost. These dishes aren’t inherently unhealthy, meaning it is possible to cook them at home using more natural ingredients for a meal your doctor would be proud of.

*Jack Thomas is the founder and CEO of BASE, voted Asia’s Gym of the Year in the Fitness Best Awards 2018.

New Gyms to Get Shredded

Rhino Strength & Conditioning Patient Cena, a strapping Congolese expat renowned for winning local Strongman contests, will push you to your limits in the intensive heavy-lifting class, “Powerlifting;” the stamina and endurance training,“Rhino WOD;” and the fat-busting “bootcamp,” which mixes cardio and strength training. Yoga and boxing classes are also available. Membership starts at B3,500 per month or B2,500 for 10 classes. 3798 Rama 4 Rd., 061-312-6432. Open MonFri 7am-9pm; Sat 10am-4pm

CrossOver At Bangkok's sparkling new mega sports complex, Stadium One, you'll find a whopping 129 sports retail stores and a five-story “Active Box” zone, which is packed with fitness centers like this gym specializing in functional training. The classes range from High Intensity Interval Training (HIIT) and fitness boot camps to agility and strength training with professional coaches who monitor your progression and health. Unlimited group classes start at B4,000 per month. 4/F, Active Box, Stadium One, Chulalongkorn Soi 6, Banthadthong Rd. Open Mon-Fri 7am-9pm; Sat-Sun 10am-6.30pm

RSM Academy Also situated inside Stadium One, this gym was founded by the owner of Rajadamnern Stadium—arguably Thailand’s most prestigious muay Thai arena right now—and Singha Corporation—a sponsor of the sport for decades. RSM Academy provides training programs for newbies, and advanced classes for aspiring professional ass-kickers. Get started with a B4,950 10-class pass (valid for three months). 4/F, Active Box, Stadium One, Chulalongkorn Soi 6, Banthadthong Rd. Open 9am-9pm

10/5/18 8:00 PM

neighborhood | sam yan

BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 12, 2018

Creamery Boutique Ice Cream

Joke Samyan

Samyan Mitrtown

Stadium One

Jae Oh Khao Tom Ped

Chula Land

Coffee & Breakfast

Sam Yan is changing. Chulalongkorn University is pumping money into the neighborhood behind MBK, transforming aged food centers and machine parts shops into shopping arcades and sports centers. But between the eerily new boulevards and parks, some of the old life still remains. By Petpailin Kirdsaeng

Head to April Store (U-Center, 097-979-6495) for a scone (B55) and Americano (B55), or try the fresh-baked soft cookies and unusual homemade ice cream (bacon and egg flavor, anyone?) at Creamery Boutique Ice Cream (U-Center, 098-798-7098). For a more familiar breakfast set (B195), Baan Samyan (12 Si Phraya Rd., 086 - 612- 6060) serves (real) bacon and eggs, or if you want to keep it traditional, queue up at the 60-year-old Joke Samyan (245 Chulalongkorn Soi 11, 02-216-4809) for Thai-style rice porridge (40B-60B). Luerjai (U-Center, 0806576212) offers a health-conscious salmon pokebowl (B189).

Lunch & Dinner Choices abound in this area, from Hi Sheng (Chulalongkorn Soi 9, 086-808-5456)—with real fish ball noodles (no borax or flour,

B40-B50) to Kuaytiaw Moo Tun Samyan’s (200 Chulalongkorn Soi 50, 02-215-3449) steamed pork Chinese noodles (B50). Queues for the signature fried noodles with huge river shrimps (B300) at Leng Kee Radna Hong Kong (46 Chulalongkorn Soi 46, 086-9921231), or for yet more noodles, head to Ya Leum Chan (218-220 Chulalongkorn Soi 50, 081-6425215), whose comforting kod sien talay (B250) features Mama topped with seafood. Jae Oh Khao Tom Ped (113 Soi Charat Mueang, 081-682-8816) offers Mama noodles with seafood (B120-B800).

Drinks Due to the proximity to Chula there are no bars— head to neighboring Ratchadamri or Silom for kicks.

Transport Besides MRT Sam Yan, you can just about walk to BTS National Stadium and Silom.

Accommodation The ultra-convenient 24-floor Chamchuri Square Residence (Phayathai Rd., 02-218-3590) is directly connected to MRT Sam Yan, offering 220 units from B30,000/ month, while within 300 meters of the MRT Altitude Condo (169/3, Si Phraya Rd., 062-363-6456) has 97 units from B22,000/month. Five minutes’ walk of the MRT lie the 25-floor Wish@Samyan (18 Si Phraya Rd., 02-887-6322), with 465 units from B17,000/month; the 23-floor Vertiq Condo (188 Si Phraya Rd., 02-887-6322), with 196 units from B19,000/month; and the luxurious 40-floor Ideo Q Chula Samyan (660, Rama 4 Rd., 02-316-2222), with 1,598 units from B22,122/month.

Community Apart from every food type you can imagine, Sam Yan also offers community malls like I’m Park (353 Chulalongkorn Soi 9, 02-214-

4100), food markets like Samyan Market (6 Chulalongkorn Soi 9, 02-215-3662), and green spaces like CU Centenary Park (254 Phayathai Rd., 02-215-3555). Co-working spaces are also readily available, like Too Fast To Sleep (762 Rama 4 Rd., 081-899-1551), Naplab (Chulalongkorn Soi 6, 095-951-9523), and NexDots (2/F, I’m Park, 353 Chulalongkorn Soi 9, 065-816-5697).

Visit Stadium One (849/17-18 Chulalongkorn Soi 6, 095-849-4375) is a massive new fitness center. Visit Wat Hua Lamphong (728 Rama Rd.)—well-known for making coffin donations. Opening in 2019, the student-friendly 222,000-square-meter Samyan Mitrtown (197/2 Phayathai Rd., 02-764-6200) promises shops, restaurants and residential units. For now, check out the street art project on the site’s wall.

BK ASKS

What’s special about Sam Yan?

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KANIT WIPVASUTTI, OWNER OF APRIL STORE “Sam Yan is a place of old and new. There are students, teenagers, many emerging stores, and also the old people with their traditional recipes. As for my recommendation, Kuaytiaw Moo Tun Samyan offers high quality food at a fair price that’s really worth the money.”

BANLANG PISITTIPORN, OWNER OF KUAYTIAW MOO TUN SAMYAN “Sam Yan is the real food store for Bangkokians. Every place is absolutely worth trying because they are run by professionals.They have to prove themselves with quality, as those that offer quantity over quality cannot survive here.”

POOWANUT TANWATTANAKUL, OWNER OF LUERJAI “I think Samyan is the best area for finding a wide variety of food at affordable prices. It’s also easy to reach, in the city center and has parking lots, too.”

10/4/18 8:46 PM

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10/4/18 7:58 PM