P.[A] Spotify.indd 2
9/20/18 3:11 PM
P.[B] Spotify.indd 2
9/20/18 3:13 PM
it's free!
In Beer We Trust The ex-soldier saving our city through brewing Head Strong Why local mental healthcare needs help Access all Areas Awesome travel destinations with no visa required Southern Winds The new Thai fine-dining spot obsessing Bangkokians Anyone want an iPhone X NO. 747 SEP 28, 2018. www.bkmagazine.com
BETTER WITH AGE
Secondhand steals from Bangkok's best vintage stores
Cover BK 747_Sep 28_18_01.indd 1
9/20/18 5:21 PM
s ’ k o k g n a B n w o d g n i s t o p s Count t h g i n t s of t s i l e wilde v i it ’s defin es, ng kok u g o l n a p B o t f rt o roof a , p s r a a b e ts. r B e o e p s b t , h s r g i l ba ot n h r e h t cocktai nd o a s b u l c
! n o o S g in
Com
02-624-9696 BAD_h/a_full page_02.indd 1
advertising@asia-city.co.th 9/21/2561 BE 2:30 PM
page 3 Who's in charge? Managing Director & Publisher Andrew Hiransomboon Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Digital Director / Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Digital Content Coordinator Nontaya Kumyat Digital Content Assistant Pakchira Bunphol Writers Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj, Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley, Kankanok Wichiantanon
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2018
04
News Quiz
upfront
The colonel solving economic woes through beer
How well have you been paying attention to life in Bangkok in September 2018?
Art Director Vatanya Bongkotkarn Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Graphic Designers Anunya Chobnitas, Wirankan Saiyasombut Photographer Poonsawat Suttama Video Content Manager Wanlop Rungkuvijad Video Designer Saranya Laowtrakul Videographer Nattapol Srisukh Junior Video Editor Pattanagorn Adirekkiat Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Sales Managers Tipkritta Chiraporncharas, Orajira Sukkasem Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Nattaya Bovornsettanon, Orakarn Laohakanjanasiri ASIA CITY STUDIO Managing Editor Dietrich Neu Associate Editor Sureepak Janyapat Senior Project Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Business Development Manager Rangsan khamloi Assistant Art Director Ratchprapha Sunthornprasat Project Coordinator Sirinart Panyasricharoen Senior Developers Passzarkorn Youthasoontorn, Wasan Wangrach Writer-Translator Tripop Leelasestaporn Branded Content Writer Chakariya Cheewatara
What’s the one piece of good news from BTS stations this month? a They’re finally running an ad campaign that doesn’t feature Yaya, Nadech or both. b The machines now accept two-baht coins. c They worked out their issues with the MRT and now you can use one card for both services. d A new sponsorship deal with MK means station guards perform a funky choreographed dance at 6pm every day.
06 cover
How to shop vintage in Bangkok
Math problem: 12 plus 8 equals what? a 20 b 4 c The age we lost our virginity. d A massive headache for Chumchon Wat Nong Tamlueng School in Chonburi.
SOIMILK Editor Nathapong Suppavatee Senior Writer Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan, Atiwat Uton Brand Manager Onwara Sittirug Sales Associates Prawpraew Pairohg, Kornkanok Sriwaranant Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Assistant Finance Manager Anchalee Limkhamduang Senior Accountant Maneeya Kanthongdang Accountant Manita Bangmoung Admin Executive Yaovaluck Srisermsri
What will the increase in your monthly social security payment go towards?
Contributors Angela Symons, Kathy MacLeod
10
Intern Petpailin Kirdasaeng Photo cover by Poonsawat Suttama
hit list
A bath with a view
Asia City Media Group Chief Executive Officer Greg Duncan (gduncan@asiacity.net) Director Gretchen Worth (gworth@asia-city.co.th)
travel
The Asia City Media Group Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower 100 North Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 Email: bkmagazine@asia-city.co.th
Visit these visa-free destinations
16 food
The Southern Thai restaurant causing a sensation
get in the loop
bkmagazine.com
contest, updates, stories
facebook.com/bkmagazine
latest news and trends
see what’s happening
@bkmagazine
TOC_BK 747_Sep 28_18.indd 3
Which of these popular but illegal local pastimes have we voted not to punish more harshly?
Wearing a T-shirt with a white-and-red striped flag on it means what?
BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 24 times a year, twice a month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2018 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Media Group (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250
@bkmagazine
a Pension provisions. b Better state welfare in times of unemployment. c National healthcare. d A table for top junta brass at Alain Ducasse’s new riverside restaurant.
a Building resorts on national park land in Khao Yai. b Snorting ice and playing mahjong in back-alley gambling dens. c Taking kickbacks off of the guy building the resort on national park land in Khao Yai. d Underrage driving without a license.
12 Where to find us!
03
19
20
taste test
city living
A slice of New York in Bangkok
Bangkok needs to talk about mental health
a You will be taken by soldiers from your home and put in attitude adjustment. b You run a seditious Facebook page with really low engagement ratings. c You stand united with the BK Alliance Against Putting Cream in Carbonara. d You play football for Peru. Answers 1 The correct answer is (b). Hey, did you see Yaya uses the new Oppo F7? 2 The correct answer is (a). Unless you go to Chumchon Wat Nong Tamlueng School, in which case it’s (b). Ah screw it, at least we know which one it’s definitely not and that’s (c). 3 We have another 30 years to go until we reach retirement age and find out the full answer to this, but we’re not holding out much hope for (a-c). 4 The correct answer is (d), as reported in a survey that came out the same month a kid without a license crashed his sports car into a family pick-up. 5 The correct answer is (a), you treacherous republican bastard. Unless you do play for Peru, in which case it’s cool.
9/20/18 8:47 PM
upfront
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2018
04
HOT OR NOT www.vimeo.com/241361785/ fc2a7b63f9
SUVARNABHUMI TERMINAL 2
First, SA Group wins the bid to build Terminal 2. Then, SA gets disqualified and the project goes to Duangrit. Next, architectural bloggers everywhere call “copycat” on his building, before a group of engineers comes out saying the whole thing could go up in flames. So long as it can stand the security threat posed by hoards of autograph-hungry K-pop fans, we reckon it’s good to go.
This colonel plans to solve Thailand’s economic disparity with craft beer INTERVIEW
Wichit Saiklao, 47, is a military colonel who has been making pioneering moves on the Thai craft beer scene since he opened Chit Beer Brewing Academy on Koh Kret five years ago. He recently opened Mitr Craft, the country’s first legal Thai craft beer brewery, along with Mitr Bar, a Bangkok outlet for their brews. We spoke to him about where it all began, and why he thinks his business model could solve Thailand’s economic disparity.
“If we can’t change things from the top down, we have to start from the bottom up.” THAT’S WHAT SHE SAID
Upfront_BK 747_Sep_28_18.indd 4
What is the Mitr Craft project? Our mottos are “anybody can brew” and “anybody can drink.” Mitr Craft Brewery is like a playground for craft beer brewers. Anyone can propose a project on our website [mitrcraft.com], where the public can then vote for their favorites—300 votes means it will be made at our brewery. This gives brewers the chance to test out the market, before they go commercial or brew it overseas for import [Thai regulations forbid you from brewing less than 100,000 liters or more than 1 million liters per year]. Mitr Bar acts as an outlet to sell the beer we make at affordable prices. How does it work? We are a profit-sharing business. Beer that’s brewed at Mitr Craft can only be sold at Mitr Bar, but the profits get split 30/70 between brewer and brewery. Usually, a brewer sells kegs to bars at say B4,000, who then sell it at a huge markup—say B220 per glass—at the expense of the customer. We believe that the brewer, as the brains behind the product, should be appreciated more, so rather than buying the beer from them at a low price, we share the profits. How did you come up with the concept? Thailand is a country full of makers—farmers, brewers to name a few—but why are these people still poor when they create such valuable products? It’s because the markup on products doesn’t match what the makers are paid. The system is flawed, it’s a worldwide problem that means the rich stay rich and
the poor stay poor with very little negotiating power. Beer has always been my hobby, so I came up with this sharing economy craft beer model to try and make the system fairer for brewers. Maybe I can use this model in the future to experiment with other types of business. I don’t think our country has a problem with creating wealth, it has a problem with sharing it—the GDP doesn’t represent reality. If we can’t change things from the top down, we have to start from the bottom up. Tell us more about yourself I was a cadet and got offered a scholarship to study my Masters and PhD overseas. I chose the US and studied electrical engineering. While I was there, my American friends would invite me over to taste their homebrews, which is when I learned that you could brew beer yourself. After moving back to Thailand, I said I would start homebrewing once I retire, so I could lure my friends to visit me with free beer. I was bored one day and decided to order a homebrew kit from Amazon; it came with three sets, the first two I made were undrinkable, so I forgot about it. Ten years later, a friend reminded me about this homebrew plan, so I went back to it. This time I studied the manual very carefully, as I only had one set left, and I realized I had forgotten to put the yeast in before. After 14 days, the beer came out fine and that was the beginning of it all. Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj Mitr Bar, 3/F, 23/1 Phaya Thai Rd., 089-799-1123. Open daily 5pm-midnight
CAMPAIGN SLOGANS Who knew the Shinawatras could do such good Twitter burns? Displaying wit that could rival Trump’s “little rocket man,” Square Head and his son took down Dear Leader and co. for ripping off their 2005 campaign slogan “Four years to repair, four years to build.” If the billionaire in exile thing doesn’t work out, there’s a job waiting at Ogilvy.
PHRA SUMEN Khaosan is decidedly the worst street in Bangkok. And to make matters worse, you can’t even go there for a drunken plate of pad Thai anymore. Hence why the smart crowd’s over on Phra Sumen, knocking back next-level cocktails and glasses of organic wine—without a single pair of elephant pants in sight.
OPENING DATES IconSiam has finally set an opening date for this Nov 9! Which, if past Bangkok projects from MahaNakhon to Park Hyatt are anything to go by, means it’ll be opening sometime early in the 2020s. Just kidding. We’ll be there ready and waiting to check out the 500-plus shops of this Paragon by the River.
by Kathy MacLeod (IG: @kathy_macleod)
9/20/18 8:49 PM
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2018
P.5 KOI.indd 5
05
9/20/18 3:45 PM
cover | second coming
Horse Unit
IT’S VINTAGE, DARLING
Horse Unit
FASHION
Where to root out Bangkok’s best one-of-a-kind pieces By Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley
Horse Unit
BEST FOR VINTAGE TEES
BEST FOR LUXURY LABELS
BEST FOR MILITARY AND AMERICANA
BEST FOR LADIES’ BOUTIQUE
Hidden down a small alley connecting Phra Athit and Ram Butri, The Trapeze Swingers (15 Soi Chanasongkram, Phra Athit Rd., 086-3321045) is an old favorite for its treasure trove of both men’s and women’s pieces, from cotton/ polyester graphic tees (starting at B300)—think ‘80s Stussy (B1,800), ‘90s Def Comedy Jam (B4,000) and Versace Jeans Couture (B1,300)— to snazzy ‘90s Jams World neon color block windbreakers (B3,400) and all kinds of caps, bucket hats and shoes. Meanwhile, VTG Shop’s (online only, Instagram: vtgblackmarket) collection of one-of-a-kind T-shirts ranges from authentic big brand names, including ‘80s Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Versace and Dolce & Gabbana, to punk and heavy metal bands like Iron Maiden and The Sex Pistols. They also offer tons of great streetwear, including jeans, shirts, polos and caps from Europe, America and Japan. Prices vary widely, from a few hundred baht to five-figure sums.
For decades-old French couture, don’t miss The Vintage Store (G/F, Eight Thonglor Bldg, 88/36 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-006-2669), which specializes in genuine and highly collectable luxury items from the creme de la creme— Chanel, Hermes, Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent, to name a few. Their huge collection of certified vintage designer pieces date from before the 2000s, including haute couture, handbags, costume jewelry, accessories and high heels. Prices must be discussed privately (in the shop or on Line), but don’t expect to snag any bargains. Similarly, Labellist Vintage Vibes (2/F, Gaysorn Village, 999 Phloen Chit Rd., 080-565-6156) offers unique hidden gems from the 1960s-2000s from brand name powerhouses. While they do have a varied selection of dresses, jackets and jewelry from Chanel and Dior, the real highlight is their wide range of Hermes handbags (B242,000 for Birkin 35 Gris Perle P Stamp, B545,000 for Kelly 32 Black Crocodile Porosus). Those in the know looking to snag a luxury label bargain head to Tokyo Joe (24/7 Sukhumvit Soi 69, 02-751-2544), where people’s Gucci and LV cast-offs regularly sell below B3,000.
The owner of Wooden Submarine’s (121/118 Phetchaburi Soi 18, 081-255-2866) love for vintage Americana is apparent. The shop specializes in menswear from New York, both new pieces and old stock, with a focus on rare 1920s-70s military-themed apparel like shirts, jackets, leather bags, shoes and boots from brands such as London’s Alan McAfee, Peal & Co. for Brooks Brothers, Ralph Lauren, Champion and Converse. Retro graphic T-shirts start from B500, jeans and pants from B1,500, and rugged canvas bags from B1,000. Rare pieces like the 1900s Edwardian tailcoat are also available. For more vintage military style, head over to Horse Unit (Warehouse 30, Charoenkrung Soi 30, 089-454-2250), whose vast collection of ‘50s and ‘60s US and European military items spans US army jackets, European work jackets and cargo pants, to overalls, boots, duffle bags, and canvas totes (most items range from B1,000-B5,000), plus other knick-knacks like helmets, badges, pins, keychains and even WWII newspapers. Old polaroid film and cameras (from B2,000-B10,000) were recently added to the collection, too.
Ari’s vintage den, Museum of Everything Jinglebell (18/2 Ari Soi 2, 090-263-6925), covers retro styles from every era, offering ‘70s daywear, luxe jewelry, handmade accessories, brand name handbags and wallets, and an impressive selection of vintage feminine dresses and formal one-of-a-kind cocktail dresses—if you’re lucky, you might get your hands on designer gems from Alexander McQueen (B8,000), Betty Johnson (B6,500) and Miu Miu (B4,000). Moving on to a more relaxed, bohemian style, Again & Again (Suanplern Market, Rama 4 Rd., 086-626-6965) is a hit among Bangkok’s fashionistas for its whimsical resort wear-inspired signature ruffle top (B2,980) and matching midi ruffle skirt (B4,980), which come in everything from all-white to bold colors with polka dots. You’ll also find glittery statement earrings (B6,500) and pom-pom hemp bags (B4,900).
EXPERT PICKS “The guy behind Wooden Submarine is an expert in rare Americana menswear and accessories—if you’re looking for something related to American culture, this is the place. For markets, Chatuchak Playground Antique Flea Market gathers a lot of furniture and props dealers in one place. I always get something unexpected from there. The way this place is set up reminds me a lot of Khlong Thom Market.” VUDI SOMBOONKULAVUDI, FOUNDER OF MADE BY LEGACY.
New_Coverstory_747_Sep 28_18.indd 6
“The foreign owner of European Antique Shop usually brings back a lot of religious and church antiques. I personally like to collect Gothic oddities, so I have a lot of pieces from this shop. I’m also very into taxidermy, so Nature Decoration is another one of my go-tos. The giant ostrich skeleton you see at Black Amber Social Club came from this dealer.” CHAVIN NANTATERM, OWNER OF BLACK AMBER BARBERSHOP AND BLACK AMBER SOCIAL CLUB.
“For womenswear, Again and Again is just so sweet and feminine. The pieces here are sourced from all over the world, whether it’s the clothes, shoes or cute accessories. As for furniture, I never leave Papaya empty-handed. It has everything I need, plus the owner is very helpful in finding what you’re looking for.” PANG AURAPRAPHAN, BRAND DIRECTOR OF VICKTEERUT AND VICK’S WEEKEND AND OWNER OF MUSEUM OF EVERYTHING JINGLEBELL.
9/21/18 5:07 PM
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2018
07
Bangkok’s Best Vintage Shops Fashion Apisitique Vintage Great collection of glamorous ‘70s-‘90s jewelry and accessories from big names: Chanel giant clip earrings (B14,670); Celine necklace (B88,70); Christian Lacroix brooch (B4,970); Dolce and Gabbana bangle (B3,870). Chatuchak Weekend Market Section 3 Soi 42/1.
Papaya
Casa Pagoda
Everything Under the Sun Decked out with a vivid wall mural of a surfer, this shop serves up a decidedly tropical vibe, reflected in the owner’s carefully curated selection of Hawaiian shirts.You’ll also find some cool print tees, blindingly colorful ‘80s-style shorts, trucker caps and the odd brand name (think Margaret Howell, Stussy and APC). 2/F, Gateway Ekamai, Sukhumvit Rd. Open daily 10am-10pm. His & Her Vintage This ‘60s-inspired boutique is packed with a unique collection of hats, sunglasses, jewelry and other accessories. Chatuchak Weekend Market Section 4 Soi 1, or order online www. etsy.com/shop/hisandhervintage.
INTERIORS
Indigo to Indian Indigo-dye work from Chiang Mai,Thai handicraft products, Native American silver and turquoise jewelry, along with vintage rugs, US military coal bags,T-shirts and denim. 2/F, Blue Dye Cafe, Sukhumvit Soi 36, 094-156-6166. Open Tue-Sun 9am-8pm.
BEST FOR HIGH-END STATEMENT PIECES
Lost & Found Store
When it comes to luxury vintage furniture, Casa Pagoda (Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-258-1917) is your go-to. The airy 600-sq-meter, two-story Papaya space is filled with an eclectic mix of tasteful home decor items, ranging from French country-style wooden dining tables (B63,000) to industrial-chic leather couches (from B78,000-B220,000) and elegant lighting solutions (from B15,000 for chandeliers). As well as stock from designers and artists like Thomas Bina and Kelly Hoppen, they also have smaller decorative pieces, mostly in keeping with the rustic European theme. Their second branch in Sathorn (64/1 Pan Rd., 02-637-8384) places greater emphasis on modern and edgy designs.
BEST FOR EUROPEAN ANTIQUES The passionate owners of Vintage Showcase (1155 Patthanakarn Rd., 063-446-9394) have traveled across Europe to gather their eclectic array of pieces, from Victorian and Edwardian to vintage industrial gems from the ‘50s-‘60s. Most of the stuff here comes from British and French flea markets, antique fairs and auction houses—expect a gorgeous 1920s wooden wardrobe, a handsome 1930s oak haberdashery cabinet, a French Napoleon coffee set, and a leather sofa from the 1880s, as well as other decorative items like picture frames and an English Imperial typewriter (B9,500). Similarly, over in Ladprao, European Antique Shop (8/71 Ratchadapisek Rd., 089-995-4969) specializes in genuine antique furniture and interior pieces from Italy, France, Holland, Germany and England, offering a huge collection of more than 2,000 home decor items—brass candlesticks, mirrors, lamps, chandeliers, record players, cabinets, paintings and religious artifacts—in primarily Baroque, Victorian, Empire and Rococo styles.
BEST FOR MID-CENTURY SCANDINAVIAN PIECES Situated below the dearly-missed Moose bar, Y50 (24 Ekkamai Soi 21, 02-711-5629) specializes in Scandinavian items like Ib Kofod-Larsen wooden dining sets, and chairs by Borg Mogensen and Arne Jacobsen (B2,000-B90,000). Owner Pramet Sritongkul sources rare items from European auctions, including ceramics, wooden cabinets and wardrobes, leather chairs and sofas, sculptures and suitcases. Pramet also has a warehouse on Sukhapiban 5 Soi 46 and offers restoration and reproduction services. For more vintage Scandinavian goodness, 1 of A Kind (Rama 9 Soi 46, 02-7183260) promises 100-percent vintage Nordic furniture (B2,000-B100,000) and an on-site cafe. Expect to see rare chairs and lamps like the 1965 Louis Weisdorf’s Turbo Pendant (B35,000).
BEST FOR KITSCH RETRO Tuba (34 Soi Ekkamai 21, 02-711-5500) is a two-story pub, restaurant and art gallery whose ‘70s-inspired oddball bric-a-brac is actually for sale, meaning you can play pool, listen to some old tunes and buy a couch or life-size statue of Superman, the Incredible Hulk or Darth Maul all in one visit. The place also serves Thai-inter food (order the laab moo tod, B220) along with draught Stella Artois, Hoegaarden and cocktails served in huge martini glasses. Operated by the same owner is Papaya (Ladprao Soi 55/22, 02-539-8220)—a massive vintage furniture warehouse that has to be one of the most surreal places in Bangkok. Every inch of the three-story space is stuffed with thousands and thousands of antique, vintage and retro items, from 1900s Art Nouveau porcelain dolls (from B20,000), a Denon turntable and radio console from England (B35,000) and ceramic vases (from B500), to super-kitsch toys, tin cans, wooden rocking horses and surgical lights. Anything that you can think of, they probably have it stowed away somewhere.
This stuff’s more expensive than eBay If you’re shopping for trending mid-century European pieces or vintage Americana then chances are, that’s right. The fact is that not a lot of this stuff was about in Bangkok when it was new, so the people selling it now are likely to have bought it from online auctions themselves, paid the tax and shipping, and marked it up for a profit. And don’t expect to stumble upon some hapless seller who doesn’t know his tatty old plywood dining set is by Arne Jacobsen. These people are super-knowledgeable. If what you’re looking at sounds like a bargain, then chances are it’s a knock-off and even those don’t come that cheap.
New_Coverstory_747_Sep 28_18.indd 7
Unique, high-quality men’s and women’s wear from all over the world, but mainly Japan. Expect jeans, jackets and dresses with a spotlight on hard-to-find men’s suits and sunglasses. You can also shop Zudrangma Records’ old Thai and world vinyl at the same time. 2/F, Zudrangma Records, 7/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 088-891-7016. Open Wed-Sat 12pm-8pm. Mrs. Bangonsri & Sons Very classy and sophisticated vintage boutique offering stunning haute couture, big brand ready-to-wear pieces, bags, shoes, jewelry, art and books. Expect gems like an early-2000s Dries Van Noten hand-embroidered men’s gilet, Christian Dior earrings from 1971 and a faux tortoise shell Lucite handbag from 1950. Sukhumvit Soi 31, 095-565-9659. Open MonSat 11am-6pm. Paiissara Vintage Womenswear from 1960-80 (mostly ‘70s), including dresses, blouses, bell bottoms, jumpsuits and gowns. Pocket-friendly prices, from just B600 for dresses. Highlight is the vintage wedding gowns (B4,000-B20,000). Lad Phrao Soi 61, 096-464-4965. Open Mon, Fri-Sun 2pm-7pm. Sugar & Cream A place to hunt out vintage dresses from piles of clothes. Mainly womenswear, from blouses, maxi skirts and dresses to bags, hats, belts, and jewelry—the highlight is their reasonably priced selection of clutch handbags. 1/F,Terminal 21, 88 Sukhumvit Soi 19, 081-763-5898. Open daily 10am-10pm. Thonglor Art Village This small compound of vintage shops sits outside the owner’s home, categorizing hats, bags, belts, and dresses into different shops. Offers big collectable names from Europe and America, but also some unique items from India and Pakistan.Thonglor Soi 17, 085-1454691. Open daily 10am-9pm. Treasures Run by celebrity and vintage collector Nita Tejapaibul, with a focus on elegant luxury one-of-a-kind evening wear, mostly sourced from the UK, France and Italy. Expect lots of handcrafted details like sequins, embroidery and lace.Tailor service offered to ensure the perfect fit. Men’s shirts and blazers also on offer. 1/F,The Commons, 335 Thonglor Soi 17, 084-665-5626. Open daily 11:30am-8pm. (Un) Fashion Specializes in rare leather shoes, bags and accessories for men and women. Most items are from ‘70s Italy, although they go back way further (their oldest ever shoes were 1930s). Best thing: the pricing won’t bankrupt you, with items from B380-5,000. Ekkamai Soi 10, 02726-9592. Open daily 12pm-9pm.
9/21/18 5:07 PM
cover | second coming Furniture Chinese House A long-time distributor of quality Chinese antiques, selling everything from cabinets, partitions, tables, chairs, and beds to jewelry boxes, oil paintings,Tibetan mirrors and drums. 47/1-6 Senanikom 1 Rd., 094-475-9999. Open Mon-Sat 8am-6pm. Hawaii Five-O A go-to for solid-teak reproductions of mid-century classics. Chairs, sofas, desks, tables and shelves based on iconic ‘50s-‘70s designs can be tailored to your measurements. 34 Ekkamai Soi 21, 065-262-8255. By appointment only. Pan’s Collections Born from a love of British colonial furniture, offering a stunning collection of items imported from Myanmar, with a focus on teak wood from 1900-30. 11/4 Sathorn Soi 9, 081-910 9597. Open daily 8:30am-5:30pm. Paul’s Antiques Originally specializing in Burmese colonial-era teak furniture, the shop has evolved to include collections from Thailand and across Asia. Expect exquisite Burmese colonial pieces,Thai teak furniture, rare textiles, collectibles and more. Sukhumvit Soi 13, 02-253-9025. Open Mon-Sat 8am-5pm. Workmanship General Store
MARKETS
Rot Fai Market Srinakarin
Specializes in restoring, recycling and repurposing iconic artifacts from America’s golden age of manufacturing (late 1800s to mid-1900s). Discover enduring pieces like vintage U.S. Army drafting tables, wood radios, leather luggage and original Toledo stools. 281/7 Ekkamai Soi 15, 02-381-8596. Open Tue-Sun 10am-7pm. Yesterday Once Again Specializes in Chinese antique and reproduction furniture, as well as furniture repairs, refinishing services and made-to-order services. Beautiful selection of Chinese home furnishings, including tables, painted sideboards, cabinets, chairs and chests. 2594 Rama 4 Rd., 094-6419965. Open Mon-Sat 9am-5pm.
Record Stores Audio Minute Chatuchak Playground Antique Flea Market
The Camp Vintage Flea Market
Tucked in the eaves of golf-centric Thaniya Plaza, this store is a haven of Coltrane, Davis and Rollins, to name just three jazz kingpins they stock in all their Japanese-pressing glory. 4/F,Thaniya Plaza, Silom Rd., 093-328-5998. Open Mon-Sat noon-7pm. Bungkumhouse Records
BEST VINTAGE FLEA MARKETS
BEST VINTAGE NIGHT MARKETS
Not to be confused with Bangkok’s sprawling Chatuchak Weekend Market, Chatuchak Playground Antique Flea Market (Bangsue Junction Bldg, 511, Kamphaeng Phet 2 Rd., 088-377-5385. Open Fri-Sun 9am-10pm) is located along the strip in front of nearby Bangsue Junction shopping center. Every Friday, Saturday and Sunday, vendors display tons of Thai and foreign vintage, secondhand and antique goods, from knick-knacks like toys, glassware, electronics, vinyl, stereos and game players to fashion accessories and large-scale furniture. Also right next to Chatuchak, The Camp Vintage Flea Market (482 Kamphaeng Phet Soi 1, 098-998-8580. Open Tue-Sun 3pm-midnight) is sure to appease those who can’t hold out till the next Made by Legacy. Here lovers of all things retro can spend their hard-earned on secondhand clothes (and new stuff that looks, well, old), as well as furniture, home decor and vinyl. All that vintage treasure hunting is bound to work up an appetite, so luckily street-food names (Taikong Seafood) and hipster faves (Pompano Roasted Cafe and Ari’s Summer Street and Paper Butter Burger) take part too.
Tucked behind Seacon Square shopping mall, Rot Fai Market Srinakarin (Sri Nakarin Soi 51, 081-827-5885. Open Thu-Sun 5pm-1am) is the original vintage shoppers’ mecca (though it used to be over near Chatuchak). Set across two vast main zones dedicated to all-things antique and vintage, night shoppers can dig around for rare finds in the many stores and street stalls—from electric appliances, old cameras, bike accessories, used auto parts, and classic cars to kitsch toys, furniture, memorabilia, secondhand clothes, shoes and fashion accessories. Following the huge success of the first Rot Fai Market, owner Pairoj Roikaew opened a smaller but more accessible branch in the form of Rot Fai Market Ratchada (55/9 Ratchadaphisek Rd., 092-713-5599. Open daily 5pm-1am), which boasts a similar vintage atmosphere to the original—a vibrant bazaar of street fashion, food and home decor. Unfortunatly, many of its stalls sell cheap plush junk. Moving further out of town, the 1.6 kilometer street beneath MRT Bang Son hosts Siam Gypsy Junction (965/8 Bangkok-Nonthaburi Rd., 02-910-7913. Open Wed-Sun 6pm-1am), which sports an Orientalmeets-Wild-West vibe. Piles and piles of eye-candy spanning everything from collectible Lego to taxidermied buffalos, auto spares, classic movie posters, clothes, accessories and knick-knacks for the home can be found here. The market is organized to have different themes such as gypsy, cowboy and scooter. There are a number of pop-up bars, too, most of which offer a tavern kind of vibe and affordable prices.
Do's and Don'ts of Flea Market Shopping Do take plenty of cash with you, especially small bills. Card readers and ATMs are rare. Do ask for a discount—if you don’t ask, you don’t get!
New_Coverstory_747_Sep 28_18.indd 8
Do check the condition and materials of clothes and furnishings—silk, leather, suede, cotton—if you’re not sure, ask the vendor. Do opt for timeless classics. If this is your first foray into vintage, go for go for wardrobe staples—leather jackets, LBDs, cotton T’s —over glitzy statement pieces.
Don’t walk away from an item you really, really love. You’ll have a hard time locating it again in the market maze, so it’s best to buy it there and then. Don’t forget to try on the pieces. It can be tempting to rush to buy in the excitement of finding that killer suede jacket or rare pair of 1940s Levi’s, but remember it will have been worn and washed countless times, so don’t rely on the size as a guide.
Perched atop Thonglor’s Black Amber building, this hidden gem is frequented by local indie musicians and music nerds who could well be extras from the set of High Fidelity.The selection spans ‘90s Britpop through to soul, funk and dance music. 4/F, Black Amber Building, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 086-606-2230. Open Tue-Sun 1pm-9pm. Fortune Town The third floor of the aging Ratchada mall bursts with record stores. HOF Records makes a great place to start. 5 Ratchadapisek Rd., 02-2485855. Open daily 10am-10pm. Garage Records One of Bangkok’s most popular record stores does brisk trade in restocked rare finds, with a particular love for ‘80s-‘90s alternative rock—will it be the original 1987 UK pressing of Jesus and Mary Chain’s Darklands (B1,300), or the Yugoslavian version (B990)? Lad Phrao Soi 8 (Yeak 9), 083-839-2016. Open daily 4pm-midnight. Track Addict Records Very small, very hidden shop packed with an impressive collection of wax from B300, whether rare old finds (Pink Floyd’s The Wall, anyone?) or up-to-the-minute movie soundtracks. MT&T Building, Sukhumvit Soi 69, 02-054-9669. Open daily 8:30am-5pm. Vinyl Die Hards
Don’t buy items that will give you a hard time to fix or repair, whether it’s weak fabric, heavy stains, holes or tears—it’ll probably end up costing more than it’s worth and may not even be possible. Don’t haggle if you're not serious about buying an item, and don’t offer anything less than half of the price tag—otherwise you risk insulting the vendors and wasting their time.
Black and red shelves piled with records priced from as low as B100 for used titles into the thousands for new and reissued LPs. Sri Nakarin Soi 44, 02-346-4547. Open daily 10am-8pm. Zudrangma Records Owned by globe-trotting DJ Maft Sai, this store has been credited with making molam (Thai country grooves) cool again. Aside from their reissues of forgotten molam and luk thung artists, they also offer up world music gems. 7/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 083-063-1335. Open WedSun 12pm-8pm.
9/21/18 5:07 PM
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2018
P.9 About ideas.indd 9
09
9/21/18 5:10 PM
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2018
05
Spotify is hosting a pop star-studded music event in Bangkok
11
Nightlife
Food & Drink
DARIUS AND KARTELL French house artist Darius showcases his new album Utopia, accompanied by the unique house, nu-disco and R’n’B blends of young producer Kartell. Powered by Blaq Lyte. Oct 4, 9pm. Susie Q, Khaosan Rd., 098-253-9356. B600 on Ticketmelon / B700 at the door.
BK Pick BEERVANA CARNIVAL Beervana to celebrate its sixth birthday with a huge craft beer event, showcasing over 100 labels from 20 breweries, plus games, music and food. Sep 29, 6pm. The Link Asoke-Makkasan, 1643/5,7 New Petchaburi Rd. Free.
BK Pick HED KANDI POOL PARTY This 12-hour day-and-night pool party by the pioneering UK dance record label promises a killer female DJ lineup. Oct 6, 1pm. So Sofitel, Sathorn Rd., 02-624-0000. B1,500-4,800 on Thaiticketmajor.
BK Pick AUSTRIAN WINE WEEK Wine Garage and Tastes of Austria are collaborate with 20 leading restaurants like Le Du and Bo.lan, to offer exclusive Austrian wine tastings and pairing. Oct 1-5. For full list of participating restaurants, visit bit.ly/2xnqHGy.
Film
Live Music SIMONE SALA The multi-award-winning Italian pianist will perform a repertoire ranging from classical to Latin jazz. Sep 28 and 29, 8pm. The Living Room, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 02-649-8353. Free.
MUSIC
THE EYE OF TIME French experimental electronic musician Marc Euvrie, AKA The Eye of Time, will showcase his latest album Myth II: A Need To Survive. Oct 2, 8pm. JAM, Charoen Rat Soi 1, 089-889-8059. B200.
It’s been barely a year since Spotify officially entered our lives; now, the music-streaming giant is gearing up host its first live music event in Thailand—and it’s very pop-friendly. Taking over Bangkok’s Centerpoint Studio on Oct 20, Spotify on Stage will be headlined by Alan Walker, the hoodie-loving Norwegian-British producer of the 2015 mega-smash single “Faded,” and British pop singer Anne-Marie, whose nostalgia-laced earworm “2002” is pretty much inescapable at the moment. They’ll be joined by K-Pop sensation Eric Nam and Thailand’s own Slot Machine and Wonderframe. Tickets are a genuine steal: B300 for Spotify Premium subscribers and B500 for users of the free service via www.spotifyonstage. com. Spotify will also email the “biggest fans” of the performing artists with the chance to purchase tickets before general release. Eric Nam
FILM
NIGHTLIFE
06 Journey through
07 Thonglor’s
northern Europe with this film festival
Nordic Film Festival Bangkok 2018
Beam
Between Sep 28-30, Quartier CineArt will host the Nordic Film Festival Bangkok 2018, with free screenings of eight Northern European films (with English subtitles), courtesy of the embassies of Denmark, Finland, Norway and Sweden. Highlights include Denmark’s Land of Mine (Sep 30)—the story of German POWs who were sent to clear landmines following WWII—and Norway’s Kon-Tiki (Sep 28), the epic true story of an adventurer’s 1947 raft expedition. From Finland, the popular cartoon Moomins on the Riviera (Sep 30) makes an appearance, alongside Tom of Finland (Sep 29), the story of Finnish homoerotic artist Touko Laaksonen Sweden celebrates female directors with A Serious Game (Sep 30), based on the romantic novel by Hjalmar Söderberg, and Martha & Niki (Sep 29), a documentary of two dreamers with a passion for dance. Quartier CineArt, 4/F The EmQuartier, Sukhumvit Rd. Tickets available at the venue half an hour before screening. Free.
game-changing nightclub is back with a fresh new look
Thonglor nightlife institution Beam has been given a revamp courtesy of New Yorkbased design firm Snarkitecture. Lounge on the Main Room’s new communal sofas or watch lasers bounce off the Dalmatian Room’s melted disco balls at Wednesdays’ new resident night, Bangkok Flava, hosted by the Bangkok Invaders crew. Head there for Blaq Thursdays, by the team from Blaq Lyte (R.I.P.), for upcoming international artist lineups like Soul Clap (Oct 5), Swing Ting (Oct 6) and Bad Gyal (Oct 31). Oh, and there are 22 new ways to get your drink on, including sharing buckets of plum sangria, mai tai and pina colada. Beam, 72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor). Open Wed-Sat 8pm-2am.
BENNY GREB’S MOVING PARTS Prolific German drummer Benny Greb will perform live along with Chris Montague (guitar) and Kit Downes (keyboard). Oct 4, 5.30pm. Nakarin Space, Srinakarin Rd. B1,600 on bit.ly/2PuFwOR.
KYLE FALCONER The ex-lead singer of Scottish indie-rock band The View, who recently toured with Liam Gallagher, performs solo on the back of his No Thank You album. Oct 6, 9pm. Play Yard by Studio Bar, Lad Phrao Soi 8, 085-146-8017. B300.
JAMNIGHT LIVE! WITH SNAIL MAIL Teenage guitarist and singer-songwriter Lindsey Jordan will take to the stage with hits like “Heat Wave” and “Pristine,” from her 2018 debut album Lush. Oct 11, 8:30pm. Rockademy, A Square, Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-261-3833. B1,200-1,400 on Ticketmelon.
Classical UPCOMING
DON’T MISS SHOWS BY THESE ARTISTS AT THE BANGKOK ART BIENNALE It’s just two week’s until Bangkok’s cultural event of the decade (Oct 19, 2018 - Feb 3, 2019). Here’s three exhibitions not to miss.
New_Calendar 747_Sep 28_18.indd 11
YAYOI KUSAMA The polka-dot loving voluntary ward of a psychiatric asylum’s recent show in Singapore caused an absolute sensation on the Island State. Here’s our chance to get a taste of why both art and luxury worlds go crazy for her.
MARINA ABRAMOVIC The Golden Lion winner and subject of New York MoMA’s biggest ever performance art exhibition has created groundbreaking shows whose influence has touched three generations. She’s also about the only ever performance artist with a video game made about them.
JEAN-MICHEL BASQUIAT Today, the posthumous megabuck maker of international auction houses. In the past, New York’s genre-bending sub-culture poster child who merged the pop-art world with punk, hip-hop and new wave before dying age 27. www.bkkartbiennale.com
BK Pick BANGKOK UNDERGROUND FILM FESTIVAL 2018 Outdoor screening celebrating local indie cinema as part of Bangkok Biennial. Film lineup TBA, see www./bit. ly/2PSyVgK. Sep 29, 7pm. Gallery VER carpark, Narathiwas Ratchanakarin Soi 22. Free.
Art BEYOND THE MIRROR BY BRUNO TANQUEREL Taking inspiration from Buddhist culture, French artist Bruno Tanquerel showcases a series of portrait paintings in honor of His Majesty the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej. Through Oct 20, The Siam, Khao Rd., 02-206-6999. Free.
WANDERING IN PORTUGAL Portuguese photographer Rui Palha exhibits his street shots. Oct 4-31, 6pm. House of Lucie, Ekkamai Soi 8, 095478-9987. Free. I SEE Jaroenthong Kangnoy’s first solo exhibition expresses his struggle with mental disorders through art. Through Oct 13, 6pm. Shayne Hostel & Art Space, Phra Sumen Rd., 098-665-7136. Free.
ART ME Admire Michael Kvium’s lifesize oil paintings of bizarre characters, which explore the dark side of humanity through contrast, ridicule, and distortion. Through Nov 17, 6pm. Tang Contemporary Art, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-6522732. Free.
Sports
HANGZHOU PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA One of China’s leading orchestras will perform under conductor Yang Yang, featuring 80 talented musicians including award-winning violinist Ning Feng. Oct 1, 7.30pm. Main hall, Thailand Cultural Centre, Ratchadaphisek Rd. B1,0003,000 on Thaiticketmajor.
MUANG THAI MARATHON Offering five, 10, 21 and 42km distance runs. Oct 7, Rama 8 Bridge. B400-1,200 at www. muangthaimarathon.com ASICS RELAY Relay run offering 21 and 42km distances for teams of four people. Oct 6, Grand Palace. B1,800-2,600 at www. asicsrelay.com
9/21/18 5:13 PM
travel | spin the globe
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2018
12
No visa? No problem Ten countries you can visit with just your Thai passport. By Kankanok Wichiantanon
Bromo, Indonesia
• AFRICA •
Seychelles Free 30-day visa Located to the east of Africa’s mainland, just above Madagascar, the Seychelles’ ultra-chilled 115-island archipelago is home to the pristine white sands of Anse Lazio beach, the cartoonishly pretty cove of Anse Source d’Argent, and a Creole cuisine that bursts with spice. Stay here: The gorgeous Six Senses Zil Pasyon takes over one third of the Granitic islands, which gives each of its 30 villas plenty of room amid the dense forest. Prices start at B37,679 a night. Bangkok Airways and Air Seychelles from B30,445 round-trip.
South Africa Free 30-day visa You don’t have to be a wildlife fanatic to put South Africa on your bucket list. Its diverse landscape spans the shimmering red Kalahari Desert, stunning coastlines, countless dense forests, and the striking coastal city of Cape Town with its mountainous backdrop. Stay here: Much like a private residence without the noise of the city, Cape Town’s Compass House sits on the cliffside, offering majestic views of sparkling blue ocean. Prices start at B5,826 a night. Kenya Airways from B29,622 round-trip.
• CENTRAL AMERICA • Peru Free 90-day visa
Paradisiacal Peru’s amazing energy can be felt in the chica and reggaeton music that seems to blast from every corner. Food is also the lifeblood here and, with such a biodiverse landscape, there’s always something in season. Stay here: Set in Lima’s fancy center, JW Marriott Hotel Lima is by far the grandest hotel in town—and the most convenient. Sitting atop the cliff, there’s nothing to block the vast Pacific Ocean view. Prices start at B7,044.
Travel 745_Aug 24_18_NEW.indd 12
Travel in this country is usually relatively cheap, with most things costing around the same as Thailand. Unfortunately, the same can’t be said for the flights, which are rarely below B50,000—the cheapest we could find is B47,023 (gulp) with British Airways.
bizarre yet sophisticated architecture, and scour the many museums before adventuring to lesser known places, like the world’s biggest and deepest lake, Lake Baikal in Irkutsk, or Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky with its gigantic white volcano backdrop.
Stay here: Enjoy a night of paradise at the small boutique resort of The Havannah (www. thehavannah.com) on the Havannah Harbour waterfront. The adults-only policy ensures total relaxation. Prices start at B20,327.
Chile Free 90-day visa
Stay here: Live like a royal at St Petersburg’s palace-like Belmond Grand Hotel Europe, where every little detail is exquisitely crafted. Prices start at B8,637.
• MIDDLE EAST •
If you’re braving the 30-plus hour flight to Peru, it’s a no-brainer to extend your trip to nearby Chile. Start off in Santiago for some city-sightseeing before venturing south for a hiking trip along the snow-capped mountains, turquoise lakes and glaciers of Torres del Paine National Park. Finish off with a trip to the Patagonian Desert. Stay here: Patagonia is one of the world’s natural wonders, and at Noi Indigo Patagonia, you can take in the beauty of the mountains while looking out over the Last Hope Fjord. Prices start at B3,931. British Airways from B60,529 round-trip.
Panama Free 180-day visa One of the most developed economies in Central America also comes with a beautiful landscape of dense jungles, UNESCO World Heritage sites like Panama City’s Casco Viejo, and a unique blend of cultures, from Spanish and Central American to African. Stay here: The vibrant 203-room W Panama hotel (www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/ptywh-w-panama) sits right in the center of the city, making it a great base from which to explore. Prices start at B5,133 a night. Emirates for B51,479 round-trip.
• EURASIA •
Russia Free 30-day visa A free 30-day visa won’t get you that far in the world’s largest country, so spend it wisely. Start your trip in Moscow to soak up the
Aeroflot from B14,433.
Turkey Free 30-day visa Experience an exotic blend of European and Eastern cultures in the former Ottoman Empire’s capital, Istanbul. Start your day with a leisurely Turkish breakfast in one of the local markets, then go and check out the city’s iconic architecture, from the gigantic blue mosque of Sultan Ahmed to the sixth century Haiga Sophia Museum—regarded by some as the eighth wonder of the world. Finish off your day with a juicy street-corner kebab followed by a sweet slice of baklava pastry. Stay here: It’s not hard to stumble upon glamorous, historic hotels in this city of former Sultan palaces, which is exactly what the Cigaran Palace Kepinski (www.kempinski. com/en/istanbul/ciragan-palace) used to be. Prices start at B12,817. Kuwait Airways from B18,727 round-trip.
• SOUTH PACIFIC • Vanuatu Free 90-day visa
Throw on your swimsuit and enjoy island life like you’ve never known in Vanuatu, an archipelago to the east of Australia that’s all about turquoise waters, deserted sandy beaches, beautiful sleepy towns and diving. There’s also plenty of room for adventure here, from walking up Mount Yasur volcano to get within 150 meters of its bubbling lava, to trekking through the jungles in search of Millennium Cave.
Qantas Airways from B34,136 round-trip.
Bahrain Free 14-day visa
Much like its neighboring countries, Bahrain is wealthy from its rich oil resources, which explains the towering buildings and modern architecture. Find out why the country is regarded as the original Garden of Eden at its many historical sites: Bahrain National Museum and the oldest mosque, Al Khamis. Top it off by watching the sunset at the gigantic Bahrain Fort as the whole country descends into a deep red color. Stay here: Downright simple and elegant style at Palace Boutique Hotel (www.thepalace.com.bh), an oasis that sits right in the heart of the ever-bustling capital of Manama. Prices start at B3,968 a night. Oman Air from B14,687.
• ASIA •
Indonesia Free 30-day visa Who could resist when it sits right on our doorstep, offering sights on par with far-flung Peru or Chile? With its gigantic volcanoes and green jungles, this country is bursting with opportunities for adventure, like trailing along the forest lines and hiking up close to the craters. Just make sure you check the weather in advance and buy travel insurance. Stay here: A dizzying array of original artworks bring the Raffles Jakarta (www.raffles.com/jakarta) to life. Sitting in Jakarta’s business district of Mega Kuningan, shops and entertainment are all within walking distance. Prices start at B6,769. Thai Lion Air from B6,093.
9/21/18 5:15 PM
travel | news
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2018
13
PHUKET
02 You have a new must-check-out treetop restaurant on Phuket
01
This stunning private island resort sits just off the coast of Samui
02
03
SAMUI
VIETNAM
03 Stay lean in island
04 Check out the giant
Wild Tribe Cafe (wildtribecafe.com) makes it that little bit easier to stick to your health regime while on holiday. The passionate vegan crew behind this new venture on bustling Lamai Street are on a mission to educate people on nutrition and plant-based eating. The peaceful, light-filled cafe keeps things casual with an open-plan space, decked out with potted plants and rough wooden tables. The smoothie bowls come in various flavors and toppings (B220) but for more indulgence go for the sourdough French toast (B180) with caramelized pineapple and creamy coconut sauce. Savory options include a jungle curry made with lychee and chickpeas.
With over 500 rooms, there’s no missing the new Radisson Blu Resort Phu Quoc (www. radissonblu.com/en/resort-phuquoc) on the island’s Bai Dai beach—home to azure waters, bountiful seafood and dense forests. The cheapest of those rooms (45 sq meters) starts at B5,353/night, decked out with neutral tones, high ceilings and floor-to-ceiling windows. For B42,363/night, the Beachfront Pool Villa is basically a house, complete with a full kitchen, dining room, private pool and garden. Though there’s only one restaurant on-site, they have three bars—props on the no plastic straws policy (they use their own bamboo instead).
paradise with this sexy new health cafe
SAMUI
Following the launch of the ultra-luxe Ritz-Carlton, the Cape & Kantary Hotel chain has brought the competition with Cape Fahn Hotel (capefahhotel.com). Taking over a small private island, the project’s 22 pool villas are bordered by a long stretch of white sand, which connects with Samui’s Choeng Mon Beach at low tide. Interiors are all light woods, high ceilings and earthy tones, with splashes of blue providing some added flair. The Ocean View Pool villa is where you want to stay with rooms opening out to a private plunge pool (B24,431/night). The hotel is an hour’s ferry ride from mainland Surat Thani, or a few-minutes’ boat ride from Choeng Mon.
Here’s the treetop Phuket sushi-slash-southernThai restaurant your Instagram’s been craving. Spread out beneath a canopy of palm leaves, Three Monkeys (www.fb.com/threemonkeysphuket) is like a chic version of Tarzan’s treehouse. In the dining room upstairs, low coffee tables make for a sit-on-the-floor kind of a meal. If that’s not your thing, take a spot in the industrial-style dining hall downstairs. The space triples as a bar, a restaurant and a cafe with a menu that sees sushi rolls, sashimi and western dishes support traditional southern food. There are no twists here, just chunky prawn dips served with vegetables and coconut milk, and succulent chunks of charcoal-grilled pork neck— an absolute joy. There’s quite a selection of cocktails and house-roasted coffee, too.
new Radisson Blu on Phu Quoc
INTERN WITH US! (MARKETING, EDITORIAL, ART AND VIDEO DEPARTMENTS.) You must be at least 18-years-old You must send in a cover letter and resume. Specify which department you are applying for.
Open to Thai and foreign nationals Internships are full-time, unpaid and last 3 months.
Candidates should be fluent in both Thai and English. Send your resume and a cover letter to jobs@asia-city.co.th
Hitlist Travel BK747 Sep 28_18_02.indd 13
9/21/18 5:18 PM
food & drink | news
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2018
14
HOT OFF THE PASS
Notes from the Bangkok food scene
01
Sukhumvit Soi 20’s sleek new spot for Korean barbecue
BBQUEUE
K-TOWN
The latest venture from the forces behind Banjoo, Charm offers classic Korean barbecue—no frills, no bragging—in a contemporary-rustic hotel setting. An uncomplicated approach to Korean barbecue lets the meat shine—beautiful marbled wagyu striploin from Japan and thick wagyu tenderloin from Australia (B1,450/180g) both come out succulent and juicy after a short stint on the grill. These wouldn’t be complete without the restaurant’s special housemade miso sauce and smoky Korean salt. Don’t forget to order a big slab of Korean pancake and a hot plate of japchae (Korean stir-fried noodles)—both make excellent sides. At the bar, there’s a special selection of imported Korean premium soju and Hite Korean beer (B160). G/F, Novotel Bangkok Hotel, 19/9 Sukhumvit Soi 20, 02-009-4999. Open daily noon-3pm, 5-11pm
NETFLIX & CHILL
FASCINATORS ON
U-S-A!
02 Chef’s Table TV series gives another nod to Bangkok talent
03 Bangkok’s most extravagant afternoon tea yet?
04 New speakeasy proves Soi 36 is where it’s at
Far from your standard cakes-on-a-stand affair, fivestar Siam Kempinski’s “Afternoon Tea Reimagined” (B999/person) offers total gluttony in five courses. Exquisite presentation makes irresistible the parade of sweet and savory custom-made tea trolley offering 24 blends. A traditional picnic-like pinto (Thai lunch box) unscrews to reveal nine tiny treats (and this is only course one). It’s followed by a quilted presentation box filled with mini eclairs; scones served with tropical passion fruit curd; and (the piece de resistance) a mini tree adorned with glistening luk chup fruits. Hanuman Bar, Siam Kempinski, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. Available Sat-Sun 2-5pm.
Take one of Thonglor’s better coffee joints, Blue Dye, transform its upper floor with some old-time USA bric-a-brac, stock up an impressive back bar and you have Middle Bar, the neighborhood’s coolest new speakeasy. Apart from all the classic cocktails, the bar also offers 10 signatures named from No.1No.10. Start with No.1 (B380), a triple-strength Negroni featuring gin, sweet vermouth and Campari, topped with a bitter Angostura-flavor candy. With its tan-leather armchairs and wooden counter, this little gem adds to the growing sense that across the street from Thonglor is where it’s at these days. 2/F, Blue Dye Cafe, Sukhumvit Soi 36, 094-156-6166.
David Gelb’s Chef’s Table returns for its fifth season on Sep 28, and there’s a happy surprise in store for Bangkok. Following Gaggan Anand’s appearance in season two, Chef Duangporn “Bo” Songvisava of Bo.lan will be the second Bangkok-based chef to feature on the acclaimed Netflix series, which profiles a different world-renowned chef in each episode. Since 2009, chef Bo and her husband Dylan Jones have constantly pushed Thai fine dining to uncompromising extremes with a focus on sustainability, resulting in their recent Michelin star, and No. 37 spot on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list.
After California-raised Billy Bautista (of Osito Unique Spanish and La Monita) revealed his plans take on barbecue back in August, Billy’s Smokehouse is finally open, promising to “mix things up” with Texas short ribs, BBQ pork tacos, Mexican shortbread, and even smoked edamame. Find it in Phloen Chit’s Mahatun Plaza alongside the other Bautista restaurants.
GO DOTTY The younger sibling of Thonglor’s pasta joint has been born on Sukhumvit 19. La Dotta La Grassa launched on Sep 21 in all of its royal blue and baby pink glory, and boasting and an entire bar dedicated to oozing bomboloni (Italian filled donuts)— sorry, Sukhumvit crowd, those bellies are about to get a whole lot bigger.
SWEET LIKE CHOCOLATE Thai chocolate is on its way up in the world, with two local players placing high in the International Chocolate Awards’ Asia-Pacific Competition. Kad Kokoa’s Chiang Mai offerings won bronze in the dark chocolate bar category, while Paradai snagged silver, beaten only by Japan— we’ll take it.
YOU SAID WHAT?
The news in online foodie posts
New_Hit lists food and drink_BK747 Sep 28_18.indd 14
“Let’s not hype these, they ain’t that good... this place is famous because the pancakes look good in pictures that’s all”
“@dam_muscat highly diasgree the pabcakes [sic] are delicate and fluffy.. anyone can make ur generic pancakes but this is something new which i will always respect”
IG USER @DAM_MUSCAT TAKES DOWN GRAM PANCAKES
@KISHANVEDIA FIGHTS BACK IN THE NAME OF JIGGLY “PABCAKES”
“Clinton’s Street Bakery! Hands down!!” @AMBERGARSEE WON’T LET THE JIGGLE CLOUD HER LOYALTIES
9/21/18 5:20 PM
dining reviews
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2018
15
Momotarou Ramen
Momotarou Ramen HHH
Japanese. 19-21 Soi Thaniya, 02-235-0108. Open daily 11am-2am. BB.
Running a ramen restaurant in Silom’s Soi Taniya is tough business. With the likes of Ramentei and Hokkaido Ramen Gantetsu nearby, it’s not surprising a place like Momotarou has flown under the radar for most. For years, the restaurant hid behind a rickety wooden door without so much as a menu outside, barely noticeable amid the Thaniya lunch chaos. You either found it by chance or on a friend’s recommendation, which gave it a charming, hidden feel. Today, it bears the marks of a typical attention-grabbing Thaniya dive—bright red signage, menus out front and waitresses beckoning you inside. This definitely dulls the excitement of a secret spot, but the core of the restaurant remains the same. Most of the diners are still Japanese salarymen, reading crinkled newspapers and watching Tokyo baseball or sumo wrestling on the overhead TV while digging into plates of gormoku yakisoba (fried noodles with seafood and veggies, B220) or smashing back big glasses of Singha draft (B99) in the middle of the afternoon. The plastic-laminated menus list over 100 dishes,
Ko Kung HHH
Korean. 74 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-261-0560. Open daily 10am-10pm. BB-BBB
Unless you happened to catch the the energetic servers popping their heads out with a harmonized “anyoung haseyo!,” you may well have passed this not-so-tiny Korean restaurant on Sukhumvit 26 without noticing. Inside, the two-story space is a very casual affair—beige walls and wooden tables with barbecue stoves—all the elements you would expect from a traditional Korean restaurant. The menu sees a long list of classic Korean dishes and barbecue ingredients, whereas the drinks side isn’t overloaded with crazy varieties of soju like many other places. They recommend a bottle of Chum Churum Soju (B280), which has a clean taste and mild flavor that goes down effortlessly with the meal. As for the grill, the plates of sirloin (B650/200g), marinated beef (B650/150g) and prime ribs (B550/150g) are pretty flavorful, whether enjoyed plain, dipped in sauces or wrapped in lettuce. We like the smoky, slightly spicy ssamjang, a thick and flavorful dip made from soybean paste, hot pepper paste, onion, garlic and sesame oil that goes great with just about everything. The bi-
some of them great, some not. First-timers should start with the restaurant’s best, a steaming bowl of savory chashumen (shoyu ramen with pork belly, B260). With 5-6 slices of tender, thick-cut pork inside each bowl, it’s an all-you-need-to-order portion that blows the likes of Ramentei out of the water. The piping hot, flavorful broth deserves a nod as a hangover destroyer, too. The gyoza (5 pieces/B100, 10 pieces/B190) is as good as most we’ve had, as is the teba gyoza (same filling, this time stuffed inside a fried chicken wing, 3 pieces/B160)—crispy, salty and bursting with juicy filling. Some of the other ramen options, like the shio (a saltier chicken-based broth with pork, B200) and wantanmen (with wontons, B250), get it right while others, like the stodgy, sloppy curry ramen (B250), are best avoided. For our money, the yakisoba offerings are less than exciting—bland and rubbery—but seem like the go-to for most regulars. We wouldn’t booze here, either, but it’s worth noting happy hour runs from 5pm to 1:30am, and the walls are lined with bottles of shochu (from B149/glass) and whiskey (from B129/glass) for those that fancy, but we suspect they don’t sell much. Nothing about Momotarou is flashy. It’s nicked up, cramped and quiet, but proves delicious ramen, novelty Japanese TV and cheap beer can go a long way.
bimbap (mixed rice topped with carrot, spinach, pickled radish and egg, B250) features the perfect balance of salty and sweet flavors—we were a little surprised by the unconventional addition of shredded crab sticks, but it tasted fine when it was all mixed together. The spicy stir-fried pork in bright orange sauce (B300) is satisfyingly thick and flavorful on its pillow of crisp lettuce leaves, if unfortunately a tad too sweet. Same comment goes to the tteokbokki (stir-fried rice cakes, B300)—rich but too sweet—served sizzling on a hot stone. And, of course, a Korean meal wouldn’t be complete without the presence of kimchijjigae (kimchi soup, B250); here, the flavors are pretty well-rounded, just not quite as aromatic and powerful as we hoped for. To finish, a plate of sliced watermelon and a tiny mug of sweet ginger-cinnamon tea are served to help both refresh the palate and satisfy that sweet-treat craving. The attentive staff are led by the caring Korean chef/owner, who walks around to greet the customers and genially ask whether the food is okay. Does this restaurant have anything that particularly stands out? Probably not, but if you’re looking for a great place that’ll hit the spot for Korean comfort food without venturing into Korean Town, this could be it.
Ratings P Forget it PP Only if you’re in the neighborhood PPP A pleasant dining experience PPPP Not to be missed PPPPP Flawless
B BB BBB BBBB
BK pays for its meal and does not call ahead or sit with the chef.
Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.
Dining reviews_BK 747_Sep 28_18.indd 15
Price guide Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up
Symbols Reservations recommended Parking Dress requirements Live music
H F E G
9/21/18 5:23 PM
food & drink | open doors
Sorn remedies Bangkok’s hunger for southern Thai fine dining The buzz: There are two types of Bangkokians. Those who have dined at Sorn, the new 20-seat southern Thai restaurant from Baan Ice founder Supaksorn Jongsiri, and those who haven’t. Supaksorn’s five-course sharing menus are causing a hi-so sensation thanks to bold flavors, traditional techniques—fermentation, coconut milk squeezed on-site daily—and a decadent, exclusive dining room. The vibe: The sleek interiors reference Thailand’s southern rainforests, with arched-metal works reflective of slender palm blades adorning the windows, and wood accents, earthy tones and lush green plants permeating throughout the various Art Deco-style dining rooms. The house itself is 90 years old and retains much of its original structure, making the space feel more akin to a home than a restaurant. The food: The menu offers five courses (B2,700) which take on the customary Thai sharing style; the yellow curry with young mangosteen and gu fish is fresh and fragrant, while the morning glory with coconut rice and baby shrimp is a must-try. The minute attention to detail in each dish shines with the process seeming
NNOD_BK 747_Sep 28_18.indd 16
closer to a construction project than simple cookery—the fish is lightly charcoal-grilled for a touch of smoky flavor, and the soup is stewed for hours with beef bones before being combined with grilled vegetables. Does it really need to be this fussy? Perhaps not, but it is this complexity that results in dishes that truly nourish the soul. The drink: As recommended by the chef, a sweet and subtle white wine—such as the Albert Bichot, Chablis Village Dom, Long-Depaquit 2015 (B2,100)—is the best accompaniment to the pungent southern flavors, but a selection of red is on offer, too, if you’re one for combining intense tastes. Right now, there are only full bottles, although they have plans to offer wine by the glass in the future. Why we’d come back: It’s clear that the cuisine here is driven by passionate chefs (they spent a season living down south, meeting suppliers and finding produce prior to opening) and you can really taste it on the plate. Kankanok Wichiantanon
56 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 099-0811119. Open Tue-Sun noon-2pm, 6-11pm
9/21/18 7:51 PM
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2018
17
17
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JULY 13, 2018
Karmakamet Conveyance
TABLE TALK
NEW AND NOTED: RIVERSIDE SPECIAL
01 Karmakamet takes fine dining to the riverside
02 Chill out with cocktails on the Chao Phraya
03 No-nonsense French food comes to Charoenkrung
From local aromatherapy brand to cute cafe purveyor to full-blown diner, Karmakamet’s latest opening at Lhong 1919’s riverside Chinese complex comes with yet another new concept. Karmakamet Conveyance (248 Chiang Mai Rd., Khlong San 02-116-3990) goes for fine dining: minimal whites, gold accents, tables adorned with single white orchids, and head chef Jutamas Theantae’s seven-course menu (B2,500). Jutamas’ food journeys through Asia, from the Philippines-inspired pulled pork adobo in a light rice cake bun topped with roasted coconut and galangal, to the southern Thai-spiced coconut crab with fried cempedak fruit. The wine pairing costs an additional B1,800.
Offering a more laid-back riverside hangout to the five-star hotels, the recently reopened Barbon (Hostel Urby, 1222, 1 Song Wat Rd., 02-0436358) sits atop Son Wat’s playful Hostel Urby, offering cocktails with a view. Pink and blue neon signage coaxes patrons to get drunk—“on peut aussi rester se souler.” Cocktails like the whiskey-based Kaku Berries Sour and Gin and yuzu (that’s a Japanese citrus fruit) Cloud Atlas (B280) are given a creamy thickness by the addition of egg yolk. Crash out on one of the large cushions on the deck for a chilled-out drinking sesh.
A new and more central incarnation of Changchui’s popular Raan Nye Sohn, Sonny’s (next to Jewelry Hub, just before Charoenkrung Soi 47, 086-516-2965) is making a stir on Charoenkrung Road for its well-executed and affordable French cuisine. The unpretentious interiors—checkered tablecloths and net curtains— match the gimmick-free, ever-changing chalkboard menu starring dishes like beef bourguignon (B480) and creme brulee (B160), with a heavy focus on local ingredients. If you’re lucky, you may even catch the eponymous chef, owner and member of Sleepy Eye Slim blues band busting out some tunes.
NNOD_BK 747_Sep 28_18.indd 17
Bar Storia del Caffe Sukhumvit Soi 57, 098-886-1645. Open Sun-Thu 5:30am-11pm, Fri-Sat 5:30am-midnight. BTS Thong Lo. Mahatun Plaza, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-036-3636. Open Mon-Fri 7am-11pm, Sat-Sun 9am-11pm. BTS Phloen Chit. Ari Soi 4, 02-057-9448. Open Sun-Thu 9am-11pm, Fri-Sat 9-12am. BTS Ari Classic vintage style gets worked to good effect in this cozy coffee bar, where wonderfully poured piccolo lattes, cappuccinos and espressos, are served alongside tasty lunch and dinner offerings, like truffle soup (B230), spaghetti with Italian sausage A.O.P. (B280), kurobuta pork chops with green peppercorn sauce (B420), and even tastier desserts. Try the waffle with mixed fruits (B220), or fresh strawberry cheese tart with red berry sauce (B230). Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get a complimentary Apple Crumble with Vanilla Sauce when spending THB 1,000 or more /sales slip (limit 1 dish /card /table /sales slip and after discount) Today – 31 Dec 18
9/21/18 7:51 PM
food & drink | taste test
18
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2018
Thaan
Al Dente
NEW AND NOTED TABLE TALK
Chunky 110/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 091-742-4094. Open Tue-Sun 11am-10pm Chunky throws a brioche-shaped punch at Bangkok’s healthy-eating trend with a lineup of decadent burgers and much more. Those in-the-know get the Chunky’s Wife Burger with firey nahm prik orng (northern chilli dip) and bacon jam blended together. Here, around 90-percent of the ingredients are grown locally by villagers, like cheese sauce made with salted eggs from Chaiya and cured mackerel caesar sauce from Song Khla. The result is a line of East-meet-West burgers you’ll be hard-pressed to find elsewhere. Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 10% discount on food only when spending THB 800 or more /sales slip Today - 31 Dec 18
Taste test_ BK 747_Sep 28_18_NEW.indd 18
04 Ekkamai has a retro all-day hangout Cafe Thieves & Bar (40/25 Ekkamai Soi 12, 0962-426-165) offers all-day dining as well as coffees, cocktails and Freeze frozen yogurt. Identified by its cinema-style lightbox sign, the facade’s Venetian green tiles extend to the peach-dominated interior, where vintage brass shell lamps, booth seating and an abundance of ferns and cacti make for a retro American diner feel. Start with salted caramel, Nutella and banana pancakes (B275) for brunch, followed by crispy soft-shell crab pasta (B380) for dinner, before heading upstairs to the cocktail bar. Exclusively for Citi credit card members: Get a complimentary Thieves’ Refreshment valued up to THB 160 when spending THB 1,000 or more /sales slip (limit 1 drink /card /table /sales slip)
05 The charcoal grill to satisfy your carnivorous cravings
06 The Commons gives La Dotta a run for its money
New among the heavy-hitters of Sukhumvit Soi 31, Thaan (68/6 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 086-303-1211), is all about the natural Thai eucalyptus charcoal that it’s named after. Everything here is treated to a charcoal grill session, with a primary focus on locally-sourced meats, like the Crying Tiger’s (B300) thinly sliced Thai wagyu with its addictively spicy jaew, and a select few imports like the Australian wagyu tomahawk (B450/100g). Veggies get a look in too, with dishes like the charred Triple Corn (B250), served with burnt butter and feta cheese.
Amid brushed concrete walls and bright hanging lamps, pull up a seat at Al Dente’s (The Commons, 335 Thonglor Soi 17, 097-078-1968) open kitchen counter for a front-row view of chefs churning out fresh pasta. Italian treats include the spaghetti “Bottagara,” featuring garlic chili, parsley, rock lobster, dried gray mullet and pesto (B390) and the Bigoli “Al Ragu’ D’anitra” braised duck meat ragout. It’s not all about pasta—salads are also on offer (from B250) alongside dishes like tuna tartare (B350), crab cakes (B550), and sweets like the classic tiramisu (B250).
9/21/18 8:02 PM
food & drink | taste test
Who makes Bangkok’s best... New York cheesecake? What makes a good New York cheesecake? It should be rich, sweet and creamy, yet still allow the tasty tang of cream cheese to shine through. With just a simple base mixture of eggs, sugar and cream cheese, once baked the treat is transformed into one of the most indulgent desserts out there. Now a worldwide favorite, here’s who makes it best in Bangkok. By BK Staff
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2018
Clinton Street Baking Company
BK Pick!
The perfectly golden top of this lusciously thick cheesecake gives way to an amazingly rich and creamy cheese filling. Thanks to the pleasant tang of cream cheese, the overall taste is neither too powerful nor too sugary, making it the most well-rounded contender. Verdict: Just the way it should be. Price: B200 G/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-129-4861. www.clintonstreetbangkok.com
Holey This is a cheesecake that feels truly rustic. Its generous size and slightly imperfect look give it a comforting feel, while its buttery filling and smoky cinnamon aroma are irresistible. Although the filling is a little dry, its rich and smooth texture combined with the perfect ratio of sweet to tang won our hearts over. Verdict: A homespun slice. Price: B200 Two branches. Try 245/12 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-101-1427. www.holeybread.com
Cheesecake Factory This slice has almost the exact same qualities as Clinton’s, which means it’s good, except that its pale filling lacks the caramelized top and is slightly too sweet. The smell, however, is heavenly, with hints of citrus suggesting lemon has been infused into the filling. Verdict: The humble slice. Price: B189 Three branches. Try G/F, Siam Paragon, 02-862-3331. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.fb.com/TheCheesecakeTH
19
Amor At first glance, this is the tiniest and palest of all the contenders with no evidence of having been baked. But don’t judge a book by its cover: the taste and texture are pretty impressive—a surprisingly rich and thick filling that expertly balances sweetness with a mellow tang. With a little bit of added oomph and thickness, this slice would certainly match up to Cheesecake Factory. Verdict: Small but packs a punch. Price: B67 29 branches. Try 191 Silom Rd., 02231-3185. www.amorbangkok.com
Dean & Deluca This satisfyingly thick slice of cheesecake is by far the moistest and most buttery of the bunch—so much so that when it’s left at room-temperature the biscuit base literally leaks butter (in a good way). When paired with the slightly loose yet still rich and creamy filling, it’s almost like a cross between tres leches (milk cake) and New York cheesecake— pretty good if you like your cheesecake on the wetter side. Verdict: The cross-breed slice. Price: B145 11 branches. Try G/F, Mahanakhon Cube, Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-234-1434. www.deandeluca.co.th
Chikalicious This slice lacks the richYuck! ness and tanginess we expect from a cheesecake. It’s got this soft, almost cake-like texture that’s completely the opposite of the lusciously dense New York cheesecake of our dreams, and we can barely taste the tang of cream cheese over the heavy sweetening. Verdict: Cheese-fake. Price: B130 5/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5892. www.fb.com/ ChikaLiciousAsia
Taste test_ BK 747_Sep 28_18_NEW.indd 19
9/21/18 8:02 PM
trending | head strong
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2018
Mind Games
20
EXPERT ADVICE
Asara Vasupanrajit, a clinical psychologist at Siriraj Hospital with nine years’ experience
Bangkok needs to talk about mental health. By Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj
T
he impactful suicides of Kate Spade and Anthony Bourdain earlier this year have shone an international light on mental health issues. Closer to home, Thai rockstar Sek Loso has also been hospitalized with late-stage bipolar disorder. The world has been waking up to the too often untalked-about topic of mental health, but is Bangkok keeping up? Do we know when and, just as importantly, where to get help? Here, Bangkokians speak out about their own mental health struggles.
Lily, 28, restaurant owner
Suchart, 28, English teacher
Chompuu, 21, student
Since I was very young, I constantly wondered why I was different from others, quieter. Then I saw something on TV about depression, and that was when it started to make sense. I went to a doctor who diagnosed me with severe depression. Saying things like, “it’ll be OK,” “I’ve got it worse,” “it happened to me, too” actually doesn’t help. It is not a competition. It doesn’t make me feel better knowing it also happened to you. Telling people with depression, “don’t think about it,” “don’t stress over it,” is like you telling people with cancer, “stop having cancer.” Thai society doesn’t take this issue seriously because people can’t see it physically. Those with brains that function normally always compare us to themselves and think we are just incredibly weak or overreacting. I wish people would understand that, and I quote Chester Bennington [Linkin Park’s late lead singer], “just because you don’t see it, doesn’t mean it isn’t there.” We are not overreacting. More than suggestions or advice, we need understanding.
I kept hearing weird noises whispering in my ears, telling me that I would be better off dead. It was as if I had developed another persona. I did seek help from my family, before I attempted my first suicide, but no one believed me. My friends started avoiding me when I talked about this topic. One of them told me that if I were sad all the time, I would make other people sad, too. He said I should just get over it as everyone’s got their own issues. I wasn’t the one who decided to talk to a professional. After I overdosed myself, my mom found my body on the floor and took me to the hospital. After that, they sent me to a mental health clinic. I think most people who have mental issues don’t want any special treatment from others. When people do that, it is a constant reminder of us being abnormal—that stigma makes us feel more uncomfortable than anything could. It’s not going to be easy, I won’t lie to you. Appreciate every small step that you make. No one can help you if you don’t open yourself up to them first.
One time when I was very stressed, I was so busy with my studies and away from my mother, I had a panic attack. I made a cut on my wrist to make the panic attack stop. That was when I realized I had a problem. When I told my mother, she didn’t speak to me for two days straight. She was probably angry and didn’t know how to handle it, but eventually she took me to see a doctor. I had wanted to see a doctor for so long but it would cost a lot of money. Then finally when I did go, I was already at a very bad stage. Medication and medical help can only help up to a certain level. I did mention to my mom briefly before that I may have a problem, but she just said, “it will go away.” As mental health isn’t something that people can physically see, people don’t take it seriously; they often see depression as just a sadness that will go away by itself. I don’t like it when people tell me that I just overthink things or how they don’t take it seriously when I’m just trying to heal.
Does Bangkok’s medical culture take mental health issues as seriously as the rest of the world? People everywhere pay more attention to their mental health these days, including in Thailand. We care more about how to look after ourselves mentally, to support our inner well-being and happiness. However, that doesn’t mean people understand mental health properly yet. Is any particular social group most at risk of mental health issues? Research from the Department of Mental Health Thailand in 2010 shows that people in Bangkok aged 15-24 have the highest risk of having mental health issues, especially males. How aware are Thai people when it comes to mental health? There’s a good amount of people that pay attention to this. We have mental health awareness week in November each year, which helps Thai people to understand that mental health doesn’t equate to the “crazy person” they see on TV soaps. What could make people in Bangkok more aware of mental health issues? I personally think awareness is not as big a concern as the ability to access good quality treatment.Thai people have increasingly been using the Internet to learn about mental health but despite having this information on hand there is still a lack of proper treatment.The treatment for mental health is actually covered by Thai social security, so if you ever feel like there’s something off, you can go and speak to the doctor straight away. Please always remember that the things you read on the Internet are not the same as a diagnosis. It’s important that you let a professional diagnose your well-being. What’s the one thing that you would advise never to do or say to someone with mental health problems? Don’t be quick to judge another person’s difficulties based on your own point of view. Everyone looks at the world differently and it’s impossible to try to make someone look at the world from your own eyes.Therefore, saying things like,“don’t stress,”“don’t think too much,” or “other people have it harder than you” should be totally forbidden. Friends and family should remember there’s no right or wrong when it comes to how they feel. Keep an open mind. If you notice a friend or a family member acting differently for longer than two weeks, you might want to talk to them about seeing a professional.
GET HELP
These mental health organizations are there for you
• The Cabin Bangkok Specializing in mental health issues and drug addiction, the Cabin Bangkok offers professional and practical consultations. As part of the Cabin Addiction Service Group, they have several outlets around the world.
• Khun Foundation Khun Foundation is devoted to promoting awareness of current social issues, including mental wellness. www.fb.com/khunfoundation
• Helpline 1323 Run by the Department of Mental Health at the Ministry of Public Health, this helpline provides 24-hour support to those suffering from mental health issues.
• The Center for Psychological Wellness, CU Founded by the Faculty of Psychology at Chulalongkorn University, this center offers mental health counselling for both groups and individuals.
www.fb.com/helpline1323
www.fb.com/WellnessPsyCU
• p2h foundation P2h’s mission is to generate equal access to healthcare across all of society, for both physical and mental health.
• Social Security If the hospital associated with your Thai social security has a psychology unit, you can get treatment for free.
www.path2health.or.th
www.thecabinbangkok.co.th
Feature Mental Health 746_Sep 07_18_01_NEW.indd 20
9/21/18 5:31 PM
neighborhood | phra sumen road
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2018
21
Kanom Chan
Ku Bar
Dialogue Coffee and Gallery
Khaosan’s quieter neighbor Tucked-away behind buzzing Phra Athit Road, Phra Sumen’s peaceful Old City vibe is often enlivened by stragglers from neighboring Khaosan. With no shortage of historic temples, art galleries, museums, book shops, cool cafes, restaurants, and bars to explore, you certainly won’t get bored here. By Petpailin Kirdsaeng
Coffee & Breakfast Artsy coffee lovers can check out Dialogue Coffee and Gallery (533 Phra Sumen Rd., 084-754-8799) for rotating art exhibitions and espresso (B55). If chocolate’s more your thing, try Na Bowon’s (361 Phra Sumen Rd., 02-003-5361) signature brownie (B70). For a full breakfast, go for the pan-fried egg set with sausage (B85) at 60-yearold Kope Hye Tai Kee (526-528 Phra Sumen Rd., 026-290-646). If you’re in hurry, stop by Patonggo Cafe (1 Phra Sumen Rd., 02-2819754) for soybean milk (B30) and creative takes on patongko (Chinese doughnuts)—think chicken gravy, roasted sesame pork, or Thai-style seafood (B40-60).
Lunch & Dinner Newly-launched rooftop haunt Kanom Chan Thai Dessert Bar (5/F, 133, Na Banglamphu Hotel, Phra Sumen Rd., 085-484-4044), offers craft beers and traditional
Thai mains and desserts, like tong muan krob I-tim ga-ti (coconut ice cream in a crispy wafer, B120). The industrial-style restaurant and motorcycle showroom, Life and Kuisine (589 Phra Sumen Rd., 092919-4656), serves hearty American fusions like pad-cha back ribs spaghetti (B280), while the legendary 80-year-old Hainanese chicken-rice specialist Phanfa Restaurant (550-4 Phra Sumen Rd., 02-2816890) is also nearby. If the night’s wearing on, head to Fah Mui (587 Phra Sumen Rd., 02-282-1206) for a comforting bowl of khao tom (rice porridge), open till 3am. Chains like Hachiban (240 Phra Sumen Rd., 02-281-0387) and Hongkong Noodle (Phra Sumen Rd., 02-6291323) can also be found.
Drinks Forget frenetic Khaosan, as Phra Sumen houses hidden gems like Ku Bar (469 Phra Sumen Rd., 02-0676731), with its monthly-rotating cocktails (from B380) and down-
Head in the Clouds Art Space
stairs’ natural and organic wine specialist, Kang Kao (02-067-6731). Head downstairs for great live jazz at Brown Sugar (469 Phra Sumen Rd., 089-499-1378), or to the rooftop at Jhamjun Bar & Bristro (5/F, Phra Sumen Rd., 02-282-3932) for a must-try phra jan tem jai (B180)— orange liqueur, lime juice, and syrup. The emerging Sape Bar BKK (Phra Sumen Rd., 098-956-0088) offers creative signature drinks like the ngo pa (B180)—black jelly paired with Kahlua (coffee-flavored liqueur) and Baileys.
Transport With BTS Ratchathewi and MRT Hua Lamphong the closest at four kilometers away, buses and win motosai are where it’s at. Many of the local cafes also offer pushbike rental.
Accommodation Here, apartment and condo rentals are few and far between. Instead, it’s
all about old-style shophouse buildings, a few of which offer hostel and homestays (from B15,000/month).
Community This neighborhood retains its unique and independent Old Town charm and warm and friendly local atmosphere, with market stalls prevailing over big brands. Santi Chai Prakan (Phra Athit Rd.) public park, close to Phra Sumen Fort, is a popular spot to chill and workout.
Visit Admire the King Rama IV’s historic Wat Bowon Niwet Wiharn before gallery hopping between the Queen Sirikit Gallery (101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-281-5360), Foto United Art Gallery (519 Phra Sumen Rd., 02-629-2841), and Head in the Clouds Art Space (365/9 Phra Sumen Rd., 064-9929619). Bookworms shouldn’t miss Passport bookshop (523 Prasumeru Rd., 02-629-0694).
BK ASKS
How has Phra Sumen changed?
New_Neighborhood_BK 747 Sep 28_18.indd 21
KOM TEPPRECHASAKUL, OWNER OF KANOM CHAN THAI DESSERT BAR “Our store only opened around three months ago, but the friendliness and warmth can be felt from the locals around here. Brown Sugar is my recommendation for live jazz.”
SOMSAK DAMRONGSUNTHORNCHAI, CO-OWNER OF DIALOGUE COFFEE AND GALLERY “In the past, it was just a lonely road but now there’s so much to discover here—long-established stores like New Orleans Restaurant or Phanfa, the Passport bookshop, Bamsha cafe, Brown Sugar. Phra Sumen has transformed into a diverse community.”
AMNAT RATTANAMANEE, OWNER OF PASSPORT BOOKSHOP “Phra Sumen is a perfect place to take some rest. It’s charming and full of variety for people of all ages, like art galleries to admire and restaurants from the high-end western cuisine of Life and Kuisine to outdoor street food like Fa Mui, plus secret bars like Ku Bar.”
9/21/18 5:34 PM
IND U S T R I A L
I N N OVAT IV E FA S HION
FURNITURE
GRAPHI C
DEMARK WINNER PACKAGING
BK 265x375 mm.indd 1
L I FE S TY LE
2018
9/19/2561 BE 5:50 PM