1 NO.837 I FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 29, 2024 IT'S FREE! NO.837 I FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 29, 2024
WHO’S IN CHARGE?
BK EDITORIAL
Managing Director Dietrich Neu
Managing Editor Tyler Roney
Senior Lifestyle Writer Vinita Chumsri
Senior Lifestyle Writer Sarisa Pokawattana
Art Director Wirankan Saiyasombut
GROVE: COCONUTS BRAND STUDIO
Managing Editor Andra Nasrie
Associate Thai Editor Pakvipa Rimdusit
Senior Project Manager
Sirinart Panyasricharoen
Senior Digital Account Manager Nuttajuk Kittichailuk
Production Manager Komkrit Klinkaeo
Senior Business Development Manager
Piti Rungrojanaluck
Business Development Manager
Chalida Anuwattanawong
Publisher, Printer, and Editor Tara Rattanaphas
06 by the numbers Underneath the urban chaos
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14 nightlife
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3 NO.837 I FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 29, 2024
cover story
Bangkok: Snakes, birds, bugs, whales, and more
Wild
07 bk in brief Bruno Mars returns to Bangkok for March show
The Cube gets a nightlife bump with Beamcube
review
gets
right
Fishmonger’s Ari space
fish and chips
feature
are 15
style.
Here
Bangkok spots to celebrate your birthday in
door
travel An ambitious 24-hour foodie guide for Hong Kong
open
Phukej brings elevated southern Thai cuisine to Chinatown 20
new & noted Casual new Korean eatery
opens in Donki Mall
Tokki
get in the loop bkmagazine.com latest news and trends @bkmagazine contest, updates, stories facebook.com/ bkmagazine see what’s happening @bkmagazine WHERE TO FIND US! COCONUTS BK LIMITED 111 Room 5A, 5th Floor We Space Building, Soi Thonglor 5 Khlong Tan Neua, Wattana Bangkok, 10110 Tel: 02-041-5755 Email: info@bkmagazine.com BK MAGAZINE IS A COCONUTS MEDIA PUBLICATION. Chairman Byron Perry General Manager Vim Shanmugam Head of Operations Clarissa Cortes coconuts.co Advertise with us advertising@coconuts.co
Quality Products Knowledgeable Staff Top Locations Value for Money See the full list Are you a dispensary owner who wants on the list? Reach out to us at piti@coconuts.co This isn’t just any list, it’s the very best places in Bangkok to find dispensaries, cafes and lounges. BANGKOK WEED MAP EVERY ENTRY CERTIFIED BY COCONUTS
Here be dragons: Cos kicks off Lunar New Year with a collection at EmQuartier
Cos, the London-based retail fashion brand, has released their annual Lunar New Year line up, with special items for sale at the EmQuartier branch.
Representing the Year of the Dragon, the clothing aims to reflect Chinese symbols of strength and fortune by replicating its movements and patterns. The cleancut silhouettes, lightweight textiles, and functionality will keep your movements as sleek as the mythical beast.
The collection employs a digital, hand created technique to print patterns on their cardigans, vests, shirts, skirts, and fitted turtlenecks.
Cos is known for their high-quality craftsmanship and elevated basics. In the past, their Lunar New Year collection tended to focus on vibrant colors, but this year the brand pared it down to neutrals with some vibrant red and baby blues here and there.
The Onitsuka Tiger collab with Astro Boy makes its way to Siam Square One
This year, Onitsuka Tiger turns 75 years and will be working with brand partners at Astro Boy—which actually gained global fame around the same time as the Japanese kicks. The collection features some cool sneakers and unisex fashion and is now available at the Siam Square One Onitsuka Tiger flagship store.
The lineup contains 43 items spanning track suits, skirts, bags, and hats. The iconic Mexico 66 is complete with the logo and Astro Boy prints. Onitsuka also released a red version of their Dentigre puff boots, mimicking the anime’s character’s footwear.
Founded in 1949 by Kihachiro Onitsuka, the Onitsuka brand slowly earned its stripes and garnered a reputation for producing high quality sneakers and branched out into other lifestyle items in 1977.
Italian sportswear brand Fila collaborates with Thai fashion label Gentlewoman
Global sportswear brand Fila teams up with Thai commercial fashion label Gentlewoman in its exclusive “Sportique Serenity” collection, complete with monogram athleisure staples.
How are your New Year’s fitness goals going? Well, if you’ve already fizzled out (like most of us) maybe this could get you back in gear. Founded in 2018, the Thai Gentlewoman’s brand is known for their headbands and tote bags, and it’s hard to walk around Bangkok without spotting a couple of fans slinging the logo over
their shoulder.
Fila’s reputation for creating high quality tennis, golfing, and compression wear since the 70s means there will be some vintage flair injected to these trendy items. Limiting the colorways to a classic rotation of red, blue, white, and black. Gentlewoman’s hit pieces like the headband and tote are given the Fila treatment, with the logo and tricolor stripes wrapped around them.
Other sporty essentials such as boxing shorts, tennis skirts, cropped hoodies, and lightweight knits are available to try out online and in all of Gentlewoman’s brick and mortar stores at Central World, Siam Square, Central Rama 9, and more. ●
5 NO.837 I FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 29, 2024
hit list
BY THE NUMBERS
20 species of butterfly can be found in Bangkok.
450
Bangkok hosts more than species of birds.
Beast of Bangkok
s9
Bryde,s whales were found in the Gulf of Thai land in 2023, including 3 whales that had not been previously recorded.
Firemen and police receive an average of one call every 15 minutes just in Bangkok for snake encounters, 10 percent of which are venomous.
Underneath the urban chaos, Bangkok is a little bit jungle, a little bit swamp. And crawling all around the place are vestiges of a greener (better?) world. But, just how many are left?
Water monitors found throughout Bangkok can be as long as 2 meters
YOU SAID WHAT?
HOT OR NOT
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It is possible that as many as different snake species can be found in Bangkok.
“Must be tasty ,”
— Instagram user @aunpi on a controversially named Cum coffee in Thonglor. “I was just thinking, Bangkok doesn’t have enough speakeasy bars,”
— Facebook user David Williams on the opening of Ang Yi, a bar based on a Chinese secret society.
Chef Pam and Ton
A new Netflix series, “Chefs Uncut,” will be featuring two of Thailand’s favorite celebrity chefs, Pichaya “Pam” Soontornyanakij and Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn. Each episode offers a personal profile of Asia’s six leading chefs, where they delve into conversations about their personal stories.
Chinese Elephants
Elephant pants are a Thailand soft power staple. But, recent efforts from the government are trying to put an end to Chinese made elephant pants, which are undercutting Thai textile companies. It has kicked off an argument about quality and fairness with Chinese goods.
Techno Island
“Dating in Bangkok is not for the weak lol,”
— Instagram user @yourbritishbf on fortune telling and dating in Bangkok.
After Beatforest and Mystic Valley, the destination music festivals just keep on coming. After its successful run in 2018 and 2019, Thaibreak Festival is back for the third round, bringing electronic music to Koh Mak on March 21-24, 2024. The island is a little-visited slice of paradise in the Gulf of Thailand.
MFP Backtrack
Ostensibly the reason the political party was ousted despite their election victory, Move Forward Party removed its policy proposal to amend the lese majeste law from its website. While the move comes after a Constitutional Court ruling forcing the party’s hand, other party members have suggested they stick to their guns even if they face dissolution.
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upfront
Thonglor coffee shop with a cheeky name causes an online stir
The photos of the new space from Go Cafe Pai Reuai have more than 1,600 likes on Facebook in two days. It already has a Reddit thread with more than 250 upvotes and 133 comments, and it just opened. That’s pretty interesting news for a newly opened coffee shop, but it’s not for their beans.
Cum, found outside the new Truth or Dare in Thonglor, is a small coffee stall inside a beverages-cum-coworking space. Understandably, it has driven a good deal of immature humor this week.
The new coffee outlet on Thonglor 10 is indeed named Cum, but it is not a coffee shop; it is one of three stalls—including the yet-to-be-opened Juicies and Popies—by the newly renovated Truth or Dare interior.
The name is stylized as “Cüm,” meaning it would be pronounced “coohm.” The “u” in the logo features two “x” characters acting as an umlaut.
Bruno Mars returns to Bangkok in March for his first show in 6 years
With eight Billboard number ones and over 130 million records sold, Bruno Mars is one of the hottest (and best selling) artists of our time, and the singer-songwriter will be playing Bangkok once again on March 30, 2024.
The artist has been confirmed to be playing Bangkok, and Live Nation Tero announced ticket sales for his one-night show at Rajamangala National Stadium in Bang Kapi district.
Tickets range from B2,000 to B11,000 for the VIP package. Best known for the Mark Ronson hit “Uptown Funk,” Bruno Mars has been making music for more than 20 years.
This will be the superstar’s first Bangkok show since 2018 as part of the “24K Magic World Tour.”
Ed Sheeran’s latest concert came with some Thai treats, including checking out Jai Fai with Gaggan. Wither Bruno?
One knockout and a lot of drama at Bangkok’s biggest slap fight
Soi 4’s Hillary 1 played host to the second SlapDownFight in February, a competition that kicked off to a raucous crowd and live streaming around the world. Involving both women and men and weights from 55-130 kilograms, the slap fights took place over 10 bouts.
“It’s all about putting money in kids’ pockets,” says organizer Dean Bourke. “Not everyone’s a boxer. Not everyone wants to get in the ring and have three minutes of getting the shit punched out of them. This, if you want to have a go, three little bits of pain, and you get paid.” .
The competitors get paid B3,000 for a win, B2,000 for a loss, and this event was sponsored in part by Bangkok Vodka, with some fighters taking shots before their slaps.
For those new to the slap fight etiquette, the rules are rather simple. Each slapper gets three slaps, unless a slappee is knocked out.
Brute Hause is dishing out fine dining for
your four-legged friends
Hey, doggos can be foodies too— apparently. When Brute Hause, a business that caters premium grade dog treats, came up with the pop-up fine dining “Bone a Pet Treat” project, it created something pet lovers didn’t know they needed: a special experience for good boys and girls everywhere.
The six-course tasting menu is set in a private studio. Highlights include roast beef, croquettes, and liver pate on gingerbread (which is a collaboration with Storge, another top notch brand selling baked goods for dogs).
There’s also a photobooth zone where dog parents can dress up their pups and snap some wholesome pics. This started as a Christmas exclusive but due to its popularity, the project is extending the festive edition to the end of March, 2024. Future projects will feature seasonal menus and might include ●
7 NO.837 I FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 29, 2024 BK in brief
Cüm
Bone-a-Pet-Treat
Bruno Mars
sharing Bangkok.
Bangkok’s an old city, but the wildlife is older. It’s not a concrete jungle. It’s a real jungle. Yes, this city is the largest in mainland Southeast Asia, but try telling that to the snakes, birds, and bugs that keep our city alive. In the juggernaut dystopia bearing down on us all, nature is the new luxury, and Bangkok has more than you’d think.
BIRDS
many, that’s all it is: a sound—reminiscent of pulling all-nighters. But it’s not just a sound. It’s a reminder of how birds can momentarily pull us out of the city and into a wilder, simpler world.
Bird watching, to most, seems like an activity for the rich and retired. But it costs next to nothing to start. Really, you just need your eyes.
Growing up amongst lush gardens and coconut plantations in Chumphon, ecologist and academic officer Vatcharavee “Noom” Sriprasertsil at the Bird Conservation Society of Thailand (BCST) picked up the hobby in highschool when he noticed a curious bird perched on top of a branch near his bedpost.
“In Bangkok, you can just start by observing your front porch,” Noom tells BK. “There are already about four to five species to discover.”
Once you’ve mastered your neighborhood, it’s time to brave the wild. The experts at BCST recommend Chatuchak’s Rot Fai Park, Benjakitti Park, and more suburban areas like Suan Luang Rama 9, Kasetsart Park, and Bang Kra Jao.
Most of these locations share similar species that are native to Bangkok, but research shows that a diversity of species are found in larger parks. Clean wetlands, grasslands, and buildings make the world more welcoming for our feathered friends.
For bird watchers, the migration season is exciting. From August to February, you can spot rare breeds like the tiny but regal Indian
flycatchers native to Myanmar and India and the thrush which flocks south from East Asian regions and are known by their dalmatianspotted underbelly. From February to May, you can still find them, along with perhaps a rare sighting of the striking blue winged pittas.
Bird watching is best done in the early morning or late evening. So at 8am, BK picked up some telescopes and binoculars at the BCST office; the equipment is rent free for members (subscription and renewal fee at B500 per year).
We made a ten minute walk to Mahakan Fort Park. This controversial plot of land belonged to a local community since Rama III, but in the government’s attempt to turn this historic ground into a beautified park, the residents were evicted in 2018. While public parks might sound like a good idea on paper, overly manicured plants meant that native vegetation and animals disappear.
That said, this controlled space still yields an easy and fruitful bird watching experience. Nineteen species were observed in an hour. It’s sort of like a game of Pokemon Go— gotta catch ‘em all. But when you’re paying attention, even the most common species can be thrilling. Right out the gate, pigeons, doves, crows, and tiny sparrows that you often spot make the checklist.
Every tiny movement like a gust of wind blowing up leaves can look like fluttering of wings. Craning your neck, whistling and cooing, separating it from the nearby traffic sounds—it can be overwhelming without a guide. Doing a little homework for what you
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starling / BK Magazine ▲
Black-collared
SNAKES
want to find can be helpful.
Start small by distinguishing the four types of mynas found in Bangkok. The stark contrast of yellow beaks against black grayish feathers will make it an easy target. Or keep an eye out for the black and white oriental magpie robin (the bird on the BCST logo) which are extremely common around town.
Further into our journey, we caught a couple of coppersmith barbets flirting as the male fed the female some food. Usually found in the Himalayas, they are easy to make out due to their vibrant multi-colored plumage: a green body with yellow and red on the cheeks and throat.
An innocent looking shrike sits on a branch, carnivorous gray brown birds with a black mask that send rhythmic short notes to signal hunting territory. Typically feeding on frogs, beetles, and lizards, they’re also known for impaling leftover animal carcasses on thorns, spikes, and barbed wires to come back and eat later. Even birds have to mealprep.
On our way out, we sighted a snow white egret with a slender sharp beak as it tried to find something solid to land on in the body of water.
Some birdwatchers like to document their experience with a camera. Old school watchers might prefer watching with their bare eyes or with binoculars and sketch out the species by hand. Telescopes can show you more detail but you have to work quickly because by the time you set it up the birds might be on their way.
If you’re exploring a new hobby, the internet is your friend. Music lovers have Spotify, movie buffs have Letterboxd, and bird watchers have e-bird, an application that informs you about bird sightings in your area and a place where you can log daily discoveries.
Noom recommends Ni Tua Arai Facebook group which has over 600,000 curious followers and experts sharing pictures of everything from creepy crawlies to wild mammals. A board member on BCST and fellow bird watcher, Vattikorn “Bank” Sophonrat points newbies toward the LBJ Lover Group, and The Thai Bird Report group if you want professional data and bird reports.
Hard to believe, but it’s an adrenaline rush—a new sighting, a hunt, a baby bird, a rare species.
“If you take your eyes off the main task for a while, you’ll find that the community of people surrounding the sightings have an interesting of a story,” Noom says. “There’s a lot of crossover between these communities of wildlife watchers. While you’re looking out for birds, you might run into some herping buddies or even more niche communities like fish, moths, and dragonfly enthusiasts.”
City birds are less sensitive to loud noises and other stimulants, but it’s still important to be conscious and responsible. Don’t alter or create a scene just for a couple of cool shots, and wearing clothes with more neutral tones helps you blend in with nature and increases your chances to find birds.
When you get to know these species, learn their names and their quirks. They become less of a stranger, more of a neighbor.
If you can learn to appreciate our local bird life, when you hear birdsong maybe you won’t think of all-nighters. Maybe you’ll remember Mary Oliver’s poem Wild Geese, “Whoever you are, no matter how lonely, the world offers itself to your imagination, calls to you like the wild geese, harsh and exciting over and over announcing your place in the family of things.”
Where the smog hangs heavy, where the megacity meets the trees, there’s a hidden civilization. Slithering through the branches above or dodging the chaotic traffic, reptiles and amphibians carve out a meager existence.
Home to around 250 species of snakes— from highly venomous pit vipers to king cobras and the world’s longest snakes— Bangkok’s slithering world survives on the frogs, rats, birds, fish, and lizards that inhabit our city.
To learn more, BK went on a herping tour in Prawet with Tonton Travels. Prawet, a bit outside the city center, sits among houses and wild areas, and in just one tour, we spotted three different species of snake.
The Asian vine snake is a common sight and one easily spotted on the tour. The slender creature may reach 60 inches long and is under an inch thick. Harmless to humans, frogs, lizards, smaller snakes, and birds are its prey. You can find these adorable little hunters in trees or on tall grass.
Next we spotted the tentacled snake—a much rarer find and an extremely curious one. A water snake found in murky water, this species has twin “tentacles” on the front of its face used to detect fish that swim nearby, which it injects with a mild fishspecific venom.
9 NO.837 I FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 29, 2024
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▲ ▲ Large-eyed pit viper / Tontan Travel White-lipped viper / BKMagazine▲
Pink-necked green pigeon / BCST ▲ Pond heron / BK Magazine
Yellow-rumped flycatcher / BCST
The last one spotted wasn’t harmless. The white-lipped pit viper can grow up to 100 cm long and has a deadly bite that requires immediate hospitalization. This little terror is the cause of the most snake-bite hospitalizations in Thailand. Ambush hunters are, by their nature, hard to spot—so this is not one you want to come upon by surprise.
For one evening of herping, three species is a stark reminder that we aren’t alone in this city. Others, such as the large-eyed pit viper can be found in areas such as Benjakitti Park, another dangerous ambush hunter accounting for 40% of all snakebite hospitalizations. One of the more common snakes you’re likely to run into is the reticulated python, the world’s longest snake and third heaviest. Put simply, they are not hard to spot. They get everywhere—including places they’re not wanted. These nonvenomous constrictors, however, aren’t interested in a human meal.
So, why are there snakes crawling all over our city? Let’s rewind. Bangkok 2.5 million years ago was a marshland of the Chaophraya Delta, a breeding ground for snakes and other reptiles hunting small prey, and it stayed that way until only a few hundred years ago. Now, if a python shows up in a kitchen or a vine snake startles us, we pretend they’re the invader. They’re not. We are.
Around 70% of wildlife hotline or firemen calls are to remove snakes, pythons in particular, followed by cobras, vipers, and kraits, the last three being highly venomous. Despite being one of the most feared animals in the city, snakes aren’t that interested in us.
To find out how we can all learn to live together, BK went to the Red Cross Foundation Snake Farm to learn about the proper measures to take if bitten. Almost all snake bites are caused by picking up a snake, stomping on it, or placing your hand in front of it.
1. Treat every snake bite as a venomous bite.
2. Remove the snake as safely and calmly as you can.
3. Take a picture of the snake to identify it later.
4. Get to the hospital right away or call an ambulance and let a friend or neighbor know.
Reticulated python / TontanTravel
TURTLES
A less maligned reptile, turtles are a common sight in parks, ponds, and certain bodies of water throughout the city. Surprisingly, not many are native to the ecosystem, and the species found in Bangkok today are released into the wild.
5. Try not to move the bitten area.
6. Lie down if possible.
7. If you know the snake was a cobra, krait, or keelback, you need to wrap the bite area from the bottom up.
8. Do not make a tourniquet and stop all blood circulation.
Also, obviously, don’t just kill snakes. If your goal is to wipe out snake-kind, it’s a futile effort. They were here before Bangkok, they’ll be here after. Snakes hunt mice and rats, saving crops and preventing the spread of disease. So, don’t be an enemy of the ecosystem, for goodness snake.
Lumpini Park is one of the most popular areas to spot turtles in Bangkok. Sadly, many turtles are considered endangered or extinct as a result of habitat damage and being hunted for food and for traditional medicine. There are also longstanding cultural practices of releasing turtles into temple ponds, believed to bring blessings to the releasers but often resulting in adverse effects on the welfare of the turtles and ecosystem. Instances of land turtles being found deceased or injured after release into temple ponds are not uncommon.
The Asian box turtle is omnivorous and has a sort of hinging plastron; it can hide inside its shell, but unlike other species, it can close off the ‘entrance.’
The yellow-headed temple turtle is the largest species of hardshelled turtle that can be seen on herping tours. They are also one of the species that are ritually released into ponds in Buddhist temples, hence the name—unfortunately they are critically endangered. Similarly, the black marsh turtle, also endangered, is often released into temple ponds, and some consider them sacred because they think they hold the spirits of those who perished while attempting to save others from drowning.
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▲ Box turtle / Tontan Travel
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WHALE WATCHERS
Despite all the plastic, overfishing, and oil spills, the Gulf of Thailand is host to some of the largest animals ever known to exist: whales—specifically, Bryde’s whales. These surprisingly sleek animals reach 15 meters and weigh up to 40,000 kilos.
Bryde’s whales come so close to Bangkok that on a clear day you can catch them with a view of the city skyline. There aren’t many of these whales, it’s true, but with modern radio cooperation between vessels, your chances of spotting one are better every year; what’s more, the Department of Marine and Coastal Resources spotted three newcomers to the Gulf of Thailand just last year.
So, what could bring gigantic sea monsters so close to the largest city in mainland Southeast Asia? The answer is in the khlongs. The next time you’re having a riverside dinner, notice the strange ripples of hundreds of little fish; these are probably anchovies. After feeding in the Chaophraya and the surrounding rivers, anchovies head back into the sea where around a dozen Bryde’s whales are waiting to scoop them up.
The sight of a Bryde’s whale feeding is majestic—and a little terrifying. You see a big pink, baleen-addled triangle come slowly out of the murky water, surrounded by jumping anchovies and greedy seabirds, and then the maw claps shut. Then, back into the inky depths they go. On a good trip you can see dozens of feedings as well as spouts. Unfortunately, Bryde’s don’t really jump or fluke.
Wild Encounter Thailand is one of the best whale spotting outfits running. Whale season is best from September to December, but you’ll find tours from April to January. And, who knows, maybe you’ll spot some dolphins as well—no promises.
While there are no boats that leave directly from inner-city Bangkok, you can depart from Samut Sakhon around 45 minutes from the downtown—there are tours that will pick you up from your house and take you directly to the dock.
GREEN AND WILD ENTOMOLOGY
Not every weekend can be a safari. Insects inhabit an entirely different reality from our own and do so in every corner. Bangkok is host to dozens of species of butterflies, hundreds of species of bee, and thousands of species of beetle. All you need is a patch of green.
The introduction for many amateur entomologists begins with a macro lens (at least 1:1 magnification), which can be bought for as little as a few hundred baht. You can find stick insects in hotel gardens, assassin bugs in condo shrubbery, and javanese grasshoppers outside your favorite pub—all waiting for their closeup.
Butterflies are notoriously difficult to shoot, so it might be helpful to start out with some more friendly critters, like jumping spiders and lynx spiders or a giant rhinoceros beetle—which you can shoot with any lens you please because they grow to 7 centimeters.
The great thing about amateur entomology is that it introduces you to an alien planet that has been around you this whole time. A single tree in Bangkok can host hundreds of creatures a day, so the key to insect watching is patience.
Lumpini Park
Sure, it’s manicured and often crowded, but it’s your best chance to find water monitors. This park is famous for its fat, lazy water monitor lizards. They’re fun for photography, but also fun for terrifying friends who didn’t know Bangkok had dragons in it.
Benjakitti Park
One of Bangkok’s newest parks, this space is a rare wetland park frequented by birds, lizards, and insects—and it’s only getting better as the park’s ecology evolves. You’ll find various herons, bitterns, Asian open-bills, and plenty of butterflies flitting between the reeds.
Green Lung
Perhaps Bangkok’s best kept natural secret, Bangkachao, aka the Green Lung, is 16 square kilometers of mangrove, forest, and parks just south of Sukhumvit. Take a boat from the Wat Khlong Toei Nok Pier, get a bicycle on the other side, and explore. If you want to spend a weekend among the green, don’t miss a plush stay at Bangkok Tree House. ●
11 NO.837 I FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 29, 2024
▲ Bryde’s whale / BK Magazine
▲ Unidentified Orthoptera / BK Magazine
▲ Jumping spider / BK Magazine
The chef behind Lenzi Tuscan Kitchen opens another classic Italian joint
Lenzi Tuscan Kitchen is one of the first Italian restaurants that comes to mind in Bangkok—a long-time favorite. After opening Nonna Nella, another authentic Italian spot inspired by grandma’s recipes, chef Francesco Lenzi has now launched Casa Lenzi. Using Italian-imported produce from a family farm is something to be expected from all Lenzi establishments, and Casa Lenzi is no exception, featuring award winning cheese and premium meats from Tuscany. Their list of pasta covers everything from seafood risotto to some good ol’ homemade meatball pasta. Though the flavors are familiar, the experimental ingredients add an extra touch to the classics.
Mickey’s Diner returns with a fresh new look at Amarin Gaysorn
Chalee Kader, BK Magazine’s Top Tables Chef of the Year for 2023, has started the new year with another venture. The beloved Mickey’s Diner has received a stylish upgrade. Kader currently operates 100 Mahaseth, Wana Yook, Mahaniyom Cocktail Bar, and Fran’s. Making its new debut at the Amarin Gaysorn on Jan 20th, the venue is more spacious than their previous location at the Portico building, with an added outdoor seating area. This time-warped beauty blends an old-school American diner with a modern twist on the 50s and 60s interiors. There’s a combination of forest green booths, strobe lights on the shelves, stainless steel walls, and distinct chess-board style floor tiles. You can’t miss the open kitchen, and there’s even an old-school style record player and jukebox.
Casual new Korean eatery Tokki opens in Donki Mall
Korean food got a fine dining shot in the arm with Jukskuchae last year. This year Tokki is bringing a more casual creativity to Korean fare, open now at Donki Mall. Tokki, which translates as “rabbit,” appears throughout the restaurant, with rabbit knicknacks and illustrations. The space is cozy and inviting, dimly lit with warm lights, plenty of indoor plants, an olive green and white color scheme, textured cement walls, and did we mention a projector playing Korean cartoons? The menu is fun and shows the playful side of Korean dining. There’s shareable plates like the Corn Kimchi Jeon, which is Korean pizza with kimchi generously covered with cheese and corn for an epic cheese pull; Snow Yukke is fried seaweed with marinated beef, topped with egg yolk and cheese.
12 food & drink new & noted
Mickey’s Diner
Casa Lenzi
Tokki
Coconut Culture recreates the tastes of childhood with their nostalgic new ice cream
Whether it’s a comforting refresher, an afterschool snack, or a cheeky afternoon treat before heading back to the office, if you live in Thailand you know what it’s like chasing after ice cream trolleys. Enter Coconut Culture, a coconut milk-based ice cream shop that’s taking this childhood darling to the next level. The coconut ice cream is ubiquitous, but there hasn’t been a shop that adds something new to this nostalgic favorite in a long time. That’s when co-founders Sasi “Manow” Therdteerakul and Ekawit “Wit” Chepanukroh decided to give it their contemporary spin. When the idea began to take shape, Manow and Wit took a gelato making course using milk as a base. Making it their own, the pair adapted the recipe and switched to a coconut milk base instead.
Kowloon Diner is Phra Khanong’s new hidden spot for dim sum
Kowloon Diner , which debuted in midSeptember of last year, is causing a stir with the Phra Khanong and Ekkamai crowds, with some authentic and affordable dim sum—and you don’t have to go all the way to Yaowarat. The parlor is quaint and inviting, with neon green signage, old-school posters decorating the walls, and lanterns creating a Hong Kong diner ambiance. Dishes on offer include home-made dumplings, large rice noodle rolls, fluffy steamed or pan-fried buns, and other small meals, all of which make up more than three-quarters of the menu. Their xiaolongbao (B80) is a mustorder. Their broth-filled dumplings might seem small, but they’re freshly steamed, ensuring the broth is filled and bursts with flavor with one bite. ●
13 NO.837 I FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 29, 2024
Kowloon Diner
Coconut Culture
PHUKEJ BRINGS ELEVATED SOUTHERN THAI CUISINE TO CHINATOWN
The buzz: Yaowarat isn’t all just street food. It’s becoming a bit of a hotspot for trendy cafes and bars. Phukej stands out with its southern Thai fusion cuisine—written with a “J” and not the “T” as a nod to the southern port city’s retro recipes. The spot is helmed by partners in work and life high-end hotel pastry chef from Pemika “Tong” Ungsongsup and chef Thapakorn “Korn” Lertviriyavit, who previously worked at Michelin star restaurants Nahm, Aksorn, and acclaimed venues in Singapore such as Long Chim and Celavi.
The vibe: Although the food takes a departure from the local scene, Phukej’s exterior is a chameleon, blending its mint green walls with the surrounding shop houses. Inside, what was previously an old warehouse was architecturally preserved to maintain the vintage flair while ceramic tiled floors, dark wood fixtures, and Chinese tea sets add a cozy, elegant feel.
The food: At Phukej, it’s all about the familystyle dining. The menu takes you through multiple categories, covering your salads, grills, stir fries, curry, and other essentials. To open up your palate, go for the photogenic Charcoal Cup Hokkaido Scallop (B350) inspired by the classic Malay and Singaporean snack kueh pie, a thin crispy pastry shell filled with sweet and spicy shredded veggies and shrimp. At Phukej there’s
an added southern twist with seafood dip and notes of pomelo, coconut cream, and cucumber. The finishing bite is a complex bundle of flavors: refreshing, nutty, and has a little kick at the end. If you’re feeling adventurous, go for the Strawberry Tiger Prawn Salad (B320), a rendition of north-eastern papaya salad featuring two pungent ingredients native to the south: bitter beans and salty shrimp paste. The deep fried shrimp legs bring a crispy element of surprise. For heavy hitter sides to go with freshly steamed rice, the Stir Fried Squid in Black Ink (B350) is an instant winner for seafood lovers. Tender pieces of squid are ladled with a rich inky herb broth, topped with sprinkles of salted egg and stir fried garlic balanced out with a squeeze of lime.
The drinks: The venue has a selection of wine, craft beer, and highball cocktails made from Thailand-produced liquor. Apart from their alcoholic bevs, Phukej serves tourists and local faves such as Thai tea and kopi (a southern style coffee).
Why we’d come back: As the new kid on the block, Phukej is still a hidden gem waiting for foodies to discover. The generous portion sizes are perfect if you’re looking to impress friends. 730, Mangkon Rd., 081-983-6650. Open Mon 11:30am3pm and 4:30-10pm, Thu-Sun 11:30am-3pm and 4:30-10pm. ●
14 food & drink open door
Sarisa Pokawattana
FISHMONGER
10, 6 Ari 4 Alley., 092-956-1905, Open Sun-Thurs 12pm-9pm, Fri & Sat 12pm-10pm
In Bangkok, seagulls may not swoop in to steal your chips, but there are plenty of imposters serving up soggy fish batter and bland chips. Since entering the food scene, Fishmonger has been the talk of the town for its OG fish and chippery, and with its second branch recently unveiled in Ari last year, anticipation was high. Fish and chip lovers just can’t resist.
Stepping into Fishmonger, the exterior resembles a quaint boathouse, triggering summer holiday nostalgia. The building’s facade is painted with their huge blue logo, and the casual interior is rustic dark wood and white with a nautical theme. For those preferring al fresco dining, a few patio seats are available. Fishmonger offers a selection of locally sourced fish, ranging from medium to firm, all from Koh Lanta, the owner’s home island. Diners can choose between several prep styles, including fish and chips, grilled fish with salad, and a burger.
First up was the classic Fish and Chips with John’s Snapper at a medium texture (B280)—arriving in just under five minutes. The batter had a good hold on the snapper, with a delicate crunch and crackle. The consistency of the batter was a light golden blanket like tempura batter, compared to the hardened armor you sometimes get with Bangkok battered fish. The chips, too, were fluffy and crunchy. The shine on your fingers reminds you that the fish is fried, and you’ll need reminding because there aren’t any
superfluous drops of oil.
The dish was accompanied by their homemade tartar sauce, and we ordered the Truffle Mayo (B30), a delectable addition to the traditional condiments. The menu would be even further improved if they offered vinegar or chicken salt as a seasoning and if their skin-on chips were roughly hand-cut and crispier.
The fish burger with black kingfish with a firm texture (B210) was next up—like a filet-o-fish, but better. The large piece of battered kingfish was juicy, overflowing from the burger, and generously coated with their tartar sauce. Impressively, the kingfish’s crust remained intact and didn’t go soggy from being wedged between the lettuce and sauce. The fluffy burger buns acted like pillows, not sandbags, and helped keep the focus on the filling.
The Louisiana squid (B170) was wellseasoned, smokey, and juicy. While the mushy peas (B60) lacked the desired mushiness, the smoky essence added a depth of flavor. Though disappointed by the absence of scalloped potatoes, this didn’t rain on the parade, as everything else was spot on. Overall, portions were generous, the food was speedy, and the food was high quality.
It’s safe to say that your hunt for authentic fish and chips can end at Fishmonger. ●
15 NO.837 I FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 29, 2024
food & drink review
★★★★☆
The Mahanakhon Cube gets a nightlife bump with the soft opening of Beamcube
If you don’t know Beam, you should. Currently down for renovation, this favorite nightlife spot was last year’s “Best Nightclub” winner in BK Magazine’s BAD Awards.
Now, the club kings of Thonglor have officially (soft) launched their latest nightlife offering at the Mahanakhon Cube, Beamcube. Pared down from the raucous nightlife on Thonglor, the new address is found at the Mahanakhon CUBE on the sixth floor, providing a fulsome view of one of Bangkok’s most famous landmarks.
The space is divided into an indoor drinking area, an outdoor area, a small but dark and ritzy VIP area, and, the pièce de résistance for audiophiles, a separate club space with a TPI soundsystem handmade in the UK and calibrated by Dave Perry of the Ministry of Sound and David Chow.
New Pickwicks Chronicles bar puts a Dickensian spin on nights out in Langsuan
Named for “The Pickwick Papers,” the first novel from Charles Dickens, Pickwicks Chronicles in Langsuan is hoping to mirror the elegance of Dickens—though hopefully not the squalor, workhouses, and greedy uncles.
The Pickwicks Chronicles features flights of gin, signature cocktails, and wine, with drinks designed by resident cocktail expert Gabriel Robert Gilga.
The gin flights in particular come particularly recommended. With the odd touch of crystal and peacock Victoriana, the new space is set over two floors, with bars on each, making this a spot that could be used for an upscale private party. Pickwicks Chronicles features “Industry Nights” on Mondays and Tuesdays with buy-one-get-one deals, and ladies’ night is held every Thursday with discounts on Prosecco.
This
award-winning mixologist at Thonglor’s latest bar reinvents the classics
Supawit “Palm” Muttarattana is a name that F&B fans will recognize. On the scene since 2009, Palm has supervised favorite Bangkok nightlife spots—including from the enthralling nightclub Fuchsia to the award winning Vesper.
Now, Palm has launched his first solo project at Dry Wave Cocktail Studio. Inside, the venue pulls inspiration from natural elements, particularly the trees and the ocean. Against the warm lighting, the wall patterns create a rippling effect that simulates a picturesque sunset by the sea.
Dry Wave has concocted a “Super Classic” line up, merging two classics into one glass, a signature menu that pays homage to the oldies while keeping things fresh. There are blends of Mai Tai with Tom Collins and Negroni with Espresso Martini. But the 1806-1988 is certainly a highlight, combining the simplicity of oldfashioned with cosmopolitan. ●
16
nightlife
THE PLAYERS FROM VESPER ARE BRINGING CLASSICS BACK AT THE NEWLY LAUNCHED 4TH WALL
Sarisa Pokawattana
The buzz: At the end of last year, the talent behind Vesper birthed the 4th Wall, and the new venture promises to be another instant classic for Bangkokians who know their cocktails. Consistently retaining a spot in Asia’s 50 Best Bars from 2016-2023, Vesper is easily among the city’s most celebrated nightlife venues, running on innovative cocktails and carefree conversation. This new spot is helmed by bar manager Saharat “Mac” Kaewkong.
The vibe: On the second floor of Luxx hotel, guests are greeted with an understated, jade-colored door which opens into a hallway that resembles an airplane aisle, kind of like entering a 60s-inspired spaceage set. The bar is designed by Taste Space, a veteran architectural design company that worked with the likes of Nusara and Iode. The arched shapes, curved furniture, and bauhaus decor are the finishing touches to this retrofuturist look.
The drinks: Proving that the classic cocktail revival trend is alive and thriving in Bangkok, 4th Wall opened without a signature menu last year. Instead, the venue’s signature is their rotation of crowd faves and niche classics that change daily. The liquid du jour is sectioned into three categories. To start off the night, we ordered the Paloma (B420), the lesser known Mexico-origin sister of the Margarita. Paloma is Spanish for “dove” but some say the cocktail got its name from the pomelo which is one of the key ingredients of this summertime drink. The punchiness of the tropical fruit is rounded out with splashes of tequila, soda, and salt on the rim. Then it’s on to the passion
fruit margaritas and lychee martini churning in the slushie machine at the corner of the bar. But don’t let the sweet taste fool you; these cocktails pack a punch. Keeping things fresh, the slushie specials get swapped out on a weekly basis. Upping the stakes, we picked the Scofflaw (B420) for a second glass. Named after those who sneakily sip during prohibition, the tipple is based with rye whiskey, dry vermouth, and a subtle lemon zestiness. To finish the night strong, we opted for the Toronto (B500), another whiskey-forward drink akin to an Old Fashioned.
The food: Since 4th Wall is all about classic drinks, the snacks keep with the theme. Vesper fans who migrated here won’t miss out on the bar’s top notch guacamole because the 4th Wall has as a local fusion of the guac (B200), mixing the avocado dip with a popular Thai seafood sauce, extra lime juice, fish sauce, and chili. It adds a heat to the dish but can be easily offset with a side of rich sour cream and tortillas. Keep an eye out for their cold cuts (B600), which consist of earthy slices of Iberico, spicy salami, truffle cheese, aged parmesan, and some warm sourdough.
Why we’d come back: With a comprehensive classic cocktail menu that changes everyday, 4th Wall is the perfect place for newbies and cocktail lovers to rediscover old favorites. For those who are interested in bar hopping, Langsuan also has its fair share of new bars popping up.
2F, Luxx Langsuan, 828 Renaissance Bangkok Ratchaprasong. Open daily 7pm-2am. ●
17 NO.837 I FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 29, 2024 feature
PLANNING YOUR NEXT BIRTHDAY?
HERE ARE 15 BANGKOK SPOTS TO CELEBRATE IN STYLE.
Whether you’re going for a private room at a plush restaurant or an izakaya, here’s how you get your dinner, drinks, and atmosphere.
You can’t please everyone. But it’s your birthday, and you can cry if you want to. Here are some spaces for large and small groups, set menus, and different budgets, whether you need a room or the whole venue to get rowdy.
Vinita Chumsri
B1,000-2,000/PERSON
The more, the merrier. You won’t break the bank by inviting everyone to these venues—no frills but still welcoming.
Aburi Ishida
Tucked away in Sukhumvit 51, Aburi Ishida serves authentic yakitori with Japanese standards but with Thai prices. This is a spot for a fun, casual birthday with copious cold Asahi and hot off-the-grill yakitori skewers. The gazebo is snug, allowing your birthday group to take up the entire outside space. To add to the authentic charm, the menu is in Japanese (but a quick Google translate works wonders). There’s something for everyone here at this cozy joint, be it onigiri rice balls, skewers, or omakase pasta. But chicken hearts, chicken skin, pork with cheese and tomato skewers, and carbonara omakase pasta should be on your order.
Bornga
It really can’t get any more communal than Bornga. Having started in Korea in 1993, Bornga has created a name for itself by reinventing the iconic woo-samgyup, thinly sliced beef brisket/flank against the grain and lightly marinated in their signature sauce. Wrap
it in lettuce, add some kimchi and garlic, and pop it in your mouth for a flavor explosion. For birthdays, this space features a private room to accommodate up to nine people. Along with refillable banchan (side dishes), drinking games, soju, and the gang huddled around a grill, you’re in for a good night.
Oskar Bistro Bangkok
You can’t forget Oskar’s on Sukhumvit Soi 11. A party restaurant with affordable prices, especially for quality rib eye or flank steak, you might think the menu is ambitious with French, Italian, and Thai dishes, but every cuisine gets a shoutout—pizza, beef bourguignon, and even some seafood tom yum. It’s a spot for fussy eaters and for that one quiet friend that needs a little help socializing. This venue loves celebrating birthdays, bringing the whole shebang—sparklers, singing, music, and dancing. Be sure to order a feast, pre-drink from their wide choice of wine and cocktails, and for guaranteed raucous fun, book on Friday evenings for one of their Dex and Drums nights or Wednesday evenings for Ladies Night.
B2000-3000/PERSON
A little noise, a lot of drinks, and food you’ll remember at your next birthday.
Fatboy Izakaya
Fatboy Izakaya is a more upscale, trendy dining space, a group-friendly venue with modern interiors, creative graphics, and music blasting. For groups, they have traditional communal tatami seating with big tables perfect for small plates and sharing dishes. We recommend the crispy shishamo with spicy dipping sauce (B180), the signature fatboy roll with wagyu, cream cheese, truffle oil with foie gras (B650). Their drinks are innovative and creative, with different flavored highballs like yuzu, passionfruit, elderflower, and umeshu.
Gigi Dining Hall and Bar
Celebrating at Gigi’s is an all-round good time, with its extensive list of booze and warm interior. It’s casual and cool and a place to rally your friends for a chill party—before going to get sloppy at Sing Sing. Their scalable set menus are ideal for a group dinner and include crowd favorites. For a la carte, give their specials a go, or opt for classics like a bowl of their holy vongole, their pappardelle al lamb ragu, or order a bunch of wood-fired pizzettes like the mortadella and straccatella (B310). Come to this restaurant hungry, or don’t come at all.
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feature
Gigi Dining Hall and Bar
Lily Fu’s
An Asian fusion eatery in an eclectic setting, this trendy joint is a scene in itself, especially for birthdays, complete with loud music and a constant full house. You can also sit at a table and order a whole poached seabass. For dim sum, there’s Lily’s Purse (B160); that’s three different kinds of dumplings filled with shrimp, black truffle, and spinach. They also have a few different baos, from five-spice pork belly, beef meatballs to tiger prawns and grilled mixed mushrooms. For drinks, pick from what they call Lily’s Poison, most of these cocktails are refreshing with a tropical twist, such as the watermelon and mango margaritas, coconut mojitos and the spicy lychee martini. Once the clock strikes nine o’clock, this spot transforms into a dance floor with rotating DJs and plenty of room to move about.
B3000-4000/PERSON
“It’s my birthday, and I’ll do what I want” — for when you want to make it rain food and drinks at a swank venue.
Aesop’s
Aesop’s is unapologetically extra. After relocating to Sukhumvit 16 atop the Column Bangkok Hotel, Aesop’s has become the to-beat of a place for celebratory dinners. With large, majestic columns and plinths, marble accents, sculptures, and an eight-meter travertine table, all interiors are reminiscent of Ancient Greece, so get ready for your best selfie. There’s Mediterranean food, cocktails, DJs, acrobats, fire performances, and an emphasis on plate smashing that are all part of the experience. The dishes are Greek classics like mezze plates, flaming cheese saganaki, mixed grills, pork souvlaki, and meatball soutzoukakia, and 12hour roasted slow-cooked lamb kleftiko.
Pastel
Pastel Rooftop Bar & Mediterranean Dining
Pastel is the ideal spot for that dazzling (overpriced) outfit you’ve been wanting to wear. The glamorous venue has high-painted ceilings, mosaic walls, plush velvet seating, and an outdoor balcony overlooking Bangkok’s skyline. Most places like this aren’t really for group dinners, but Pastel welcomes group celebrations. Their team can also work closely with you on party planning so you can include your own unique style. This restaurant serves what seems like an endless meal, including mezze platters, prime ribs, Iberico cold cuts, and seafood platters with caviar and entire lobsters.
Zuma
Like the other Zumas around the world, they’ve built a name for themselves as an izakaya that can party—with open kitchens, robata grills, and sushi counters. They have a signature (B3,250) odaikoku tasting menu with a selection of a la carte and seasonal dishes, making the deciding process easier for large groups. They also have private rooms for six up to sixteen people to celebrate your b-day or other event in seclusion from the hurleyburley. The tasting menu includes their iconic sushi platters and black miso cod fish. Watch the bar come alive in the evenings when the DJs and drummers take the decks, putting a whole new spin on this spot.
Ojo
Every weekend, Ojo fills with groups of friends who know the scene—the scene being a view at Thailand’s highest restaurant. The interiors are nothing short of grand (with a little Wes Anderson inspiration thrown in), filled with curved archways, gold and coral pink color schemes, and floor-to-ceiling windows. They serve up a fine-dining Mexican feast that’s highend without being pretentious. Order the bone marrow with tortillas, chiles toreados, and the khao khua brulee to sprinkle a little Thai flavor. For a birthday group, there’s a chance you’ll be able to score the best seats with the best view in the house, so the earlier the reservation, the better.
B4000+/PERSON
Go big or go home. Private, fine-dining restaurants with a room for all your besties.
Nusara
Dining at Nusara’s with views of Wat Pho Temple is like stepping back in time. Their intimate private dining room seats 11 people and is opulent with crimson red and olive green accents, ancient interiors, and oldschool Thai designs that are contemporary and timeless. The 12-course dinner set menu serves authentic Thai dishes—no twists, no fusions—that take you back. The set menu includes their signature crab curry dish, served on a crispy betel leaf and garnished with horseshoe crab roe, and the pad kra pow with wagyu is cooked authentically like it was dug up from an ancient cookbook.
Baan Tepa
Baan Tepa, BK Magazine’s Top Tables 2023 winner, can accommodate up to fourteen people in their Garden Wing room for private
dinners. The 12-course meal, customized by Chef Tam and influenced by her travels from north, south, and central Thailand, takes place in a dimly lit but elegant room with earthy color tones and oak hardwood flooring. Zero waste and sustainability are the guiding principles of the menu. “Crab, Crab, Crab” is on the menu year-round despite many dishes changing with the seasons. It consists of three types of crab as well as lightly fried soft-shell crab, egg custard, and a Southern bamboo curry.
Mia Restaurant
A private dining room with seating for ten people is among the many themed rooms in the venue. With an eight-course seasonal tasting menu whipped up by Chef Top and Michelle. The menu is European with Asian influences, think quirky, fun, and innovative in structure, like their chili crab mochi for a snack or their smoked eel with bone marrow and ikura as a hot starter. Their snack of sourdough brioche with shallot butter and onion ash has always been a highlight. There are also vegan and vegetarian tasting menus available to accommodate everyone. Room for dessert? Don’t forget “Behind The Curtain,” a cocktail bar on the ground level of Mia, where they bring you an intimate omakase dessert bar with both sweet and savory desserts paired with cocktails.
Siri Mahannop
All aboard! Feel like going a bit extra for your birthday? Why not have a boat party? Head over to Asiatique Riverfront and dock the Siri Mahannop vessel, a model of a Royal Thai Navy ship used during the nineteen hundreds. On the Siri Mahannop you’ll be sailing along the Chao Phraya River, and you can choose to dine in the indoor restaurant or the outdoor alfresco dining with a sunset view. The borderless menu focuses on freshly caught seafood, a selection of oysters from France and the Netherlands, and some small sharing plates.
Potong
Since opening in 2021, Potong has been on every foodie’s radar, and if you haven’t visited, what better time to go than on a special occasion like this. The structure at Potong is unique and rich with history. The multi-storey heritage building was once the family home of celebrity chef Pichaya “Pam” Utharntharm and dates back 120 years. The interior is based on Thai-Chinese decor that stretches up to the third and fourth levels with hand-painted murals and golden shrines. For the private rooms for your b-day or other celebratory shindig, guests can also have cocktails made by their personal bartender. ●
19 NO.837 I FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 29, 2024
AN AMBITIOUS 24-HOUR FOODIE GUIDE FOR HONG KONG
A whole day of Hong Kong breakfast, lunch, coffee, dinner, dessert, drinks, and clubbing (if you’re not in a food coma).
It’s less than three hours from Bangkok, and the moment you step out of the airport, this glittering city sucks you in. No other city fills up its real estate quite as efficiently as this harbor metropolis, and if you want to get in a solid 24 hours of food and drink, you’re going to need to hustle. Sitting on a wooden stool on the street, slurping noodles, fine dining with a panoramic view—Hong Kong’s well-established food scene caters to every palate. With this diverse culinary landscape in mind, we’ve crafted a condensed one-day guide highlighting a few must-visit spots to eat and dance to your heart’s content. Ready, set, go.
BREAKFAST
Australia Dairy Company
It’s got some hype, but the Australia Dairy Company is an experience you don’t want to miss. This local cha chaan teng (a Hong-Kong style diner) gained fame for its scrambled eggs that have captured foodies’ hearts all over the world. And there are plenty of online theories and Reddit threads trying to decipher the recipe. It’s also why people line up for hours for a 10-minute window to order and chow it down. The name is a nod to the founder’s past, having worked on an Australian farm in the 1940s. The diner was founded in the 1970s and still survives (very rare in Hong Kong). Over the years, it has become an icon on the Hong Kong restaurant scene. The diner is also renowned for its efficiency and speedy service. This, however, comes at a cost, as the establishment has earned a reputation for its less-than-appealing customer service. Word of advice: Know what to order before being seated.
47, Parkes St, Jordan., +852-2730-1356. Fri-Wed 7:30am-10pm.
LUNCH
Sun Hing Restaurant
With factory-made dim sum dominating Hong Kong’s food scene, it’s tough to come across a handmade dim sum joint. Sun Hing’s dim sum is made by hand in a parlor that
operates in the wee hours of 3 am to 4 pm. Having been open for 50 years, it still never fails to gather a queue by 5am. The joint is self-service, where customers place orders and wait for their dumplings to be freshly steamed. Give the fung jow (chicken feet) a try, and indulge in classics like ha gow, BBQ pork buns, and Cantonese-style sponge cake. Oh, and don’t miss their golden lava buns, a signature at Sun Hing.
Shop C, G/F, 8, Smithfield Rd., +852-2816-0616, Open daily 3am-4pm.
COFFEE
% Arabica
Why a chain? If you’re trying to fit as much as possible, you’ll find nearly a dozen of this chain from Repulse Bay to Tsim Sha Tsui. %Arabica has become one of the world’s fastest-growing specialty coffee brands, known for its signature clean, simple, and direct menu, complemented by its minimalist decor. The brand draws inspiration from a Japanese ethos of precision. This is present in every aspect of %Arabica, creating a customer experience entirely focused on the coffee and the consistency of the 100s of branches worldwide. The Kennedy Town location is our favorite. The shop is two stories and is strategically positioned on the waterfront with a picturesque view over the water.
Shop 4, G/F, Grand Fortune Mansion, No. 1, Davis St., +852-2326-4578, Open daily 9am-7pm.
20 travel news
Vinita Chumsri
Australia Dairy Company / City Foodsters
Hong Kong
DINNER
House of Culture
Photo: House of Cultures / Facebook House of Culture integrates different cuisines while remaining heavily influenced by the Chef’s Australian heritage. Upon entry, you’d think you’d landed on Mars, but instead they’re going for the landscapes of the Margaret River in Western Australia. The apricot and peachy color palette mimics the region’s tones, while the textured walls and blue lights are like water flowing into caves. For food, there’s inventive starters like Grandma’s Focaccia with a twist of added lao lan ma (chili sauce) and preserved lemon and the Prawn Donut, bathed in laksa broth and infused with coffee oil. For mains, there’s the 12-hour slow-cooked Rendang short rib or Jajang katsu—pork katsu with gochujang and pickles. Drinks feature a selection of cocktails and Australian wines. The Milk Punch is a milk-washed mixture of brown butter rum, oolong, peach, and lime; the Old Fashioned comes with lamb fat-washed whiskey, chestnut, walnut, and cacao.
G/F, Kenbo Commerical Building, 335-339, Queen’s Road West Sai Ying Pun, +852-2886-9689. Open MonSat 6pm-late.
DESSERT
Shari Shari Kakigori
Shari Shari Kakigori is crafted by kakigori masters trained in making kakigori for years. If done well, a kakigori is not just shaved ice; it’s like eating fresh snow that melts in your mouth, and this place lives up to these expectations. For starters, the shop imports almost all of its equipment and ingredients from Japan. Even the ice blocks are sourced from Hokkaido, imparting a cleaner and silkier taste to the kakigori. They have signature flavors like the Kyoto Uji Kin Tokyo, which features matcha with azuki (red bean) paste and mochi. For something fruity, there’s the Strawberry Special with fresh strawberries and milk syrup. Expect to queue for at least half an hour—but it’s worth the wait. There are three locations, but the Causeway Bay shop is open daily.
13, Caroline Hill Rd., Causeway Bay., Open daily 1pm9:30pm.
DRINKS
The Diplomat
You’ve had your brekkie, coffee, dessert, and plenty to soak up the booze, so now it’s time to get real. The Diplomat is an allAmerican-themed bar paying homage to the classics with a nod to influential political and diplomatic figures in the States. The dimly lit and intimate ambiance exudes an old-school charm with leather seats, a curved
corner bar, and matte gold trimmings. Drinks include the Irish coffee, a classic with Irish whiskey, cognac tensaito (Japanese sugar), coffee, and cold cream. For a unique Daisy twist, try the Taling, a drink featuring pandan gin, baking spices, orange juice, and coconut water. And, of course, before you hit the club, don’t forget the food. Their quarter-pounder Wagyu is a crowd favorite. And, when the clock strikes midnight, guests are treated to complimentary freshly baked chocolatechip cookies, a perfect pairing with the Irish Coffee.
Shop 1, LG/F, 45 Pottinger St, Central., +852-36190302, Open Mon-Sat 6pm - till late
CLUB
Minh
Minh is not your ordinary club experience. It’s a carefully designed underground sanctuary focusing on simplicity, with no seats or tables, no phones, no dress code, and vending machines for drinks. It encourages you to connect with your friends and dance to the well-executed house and techno beats from their Funktion One sound system. It’s an emphasis on a return to basics. And with frequent international acts, every night is different at Minh.
4/F, Loon Kee Building, 279 Des Voeux Rd Central, Sheung Wan, +852-5918-3870. Open Fri and Sat 11pm-5am. ●
21 NO.837 I FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 29, 2024
House of Cultures
The Diplomat
Minh
DIMITRIOS MOUDIOS TALKS
RESTAURANTS, LIVING IN BANGKOK, AND TAKING RISKS
Since arriving in Bangkok, Dimitrios Moudios has captivated culinary enthusiasts with a string of guest chef appearances, becoming executive chef of Lahnyai and opening his restaurant Ore earlier this year. In the culinary scene since he was 14, BK spoke with Dimitrios about his impressive career and what lies ahead.
Can you tell us about your background?
I’ve been cooking for 14 years, so since the age of 14. I’m from Greece, originally. I moved to Germany and started cooking at a three-Michelin-starred restaurant, Atelier, in Munich. I enjoyed it, but it was hard because I wasn’t ready for it. It was my first job.
Did you know at 14 you wanted to be a chef?
No. I went to Germany for football and quickly realized I didn’t quite meet the German standards. After that, I didn’t know what to do, and this restaurant opportunity came up, so I went for it. While growing up, I did look at what my mom was doing in the kitchen, but I never really wanted to become a chef or anything. In Germany, the education system is very different. It’s more about finding a job first and then attending school once a week. After Munich, I went to live in Copenhagen, Switzerland, Netherlands, and Chile, and right before I moved to Thailand, I lived in Berlin for a year and a half.
Why did you decide to settle in Bangkok?
So I didn’t plan to settle or have this longing of wanting to move to Bangkok. It wasn’t until Chef Ton approached me and offered me an investment opportunity for Ore. It was an opportunity too good to say no.
How did the process of planning Ore start?
For Ore, everything from the interior to the pottery to the chairs was either designed or co-designed by me. So, while the restaurant was building, designing and finding the right artists took a lot of my time. But luckily we managed to find all our designers in Thailand. During the two years of planning Ore, I looked at different opportunities to keep myself engaged. One opportunity came up with Lahnyai; at the time, it was a restaurant where Chef Ton and I weren’t entirely happy with its direction. Chef Ton then encouraged me to take the concept and shape it according to what I wanted, offering me an executive chef position.
Where does the name Ore come from?
While the designs were underway, I still didn’t have a name for the restaurant, which I found was the most challenging part of the restaurant. Everything that was coming to my mind was very lame. So I called my mom, and she said why don’t you call it ‘Ore.’ The name Ore derives from the Greek term “something you like.” It’s funny how we brainstormed for so long and this name came out of nowhere within seconds.
22 last word
Vinita Chumsri
Ore is rethinking the boundaries of minimalist cooking.
What’s the concept behind Ore?
I’ve always been drawn to the simplicity and elegance of a minimalist Japanese lifestyle, and that philosophy influenced my vision for Ore. But in Thailand, it’s very tough to do something minimal because people don’t really like vegetables, and I wanted to center Ore’s menu around vegetables. The main focus of the restaurant is the water. So, every two days, we bring fresh spring water sourced from Sai Yok that’s untouched by machinery or any metallic parts, ensuring a pure base for cooking and serving guests. This water is very plain, and there is almost no taste. For instance, one of our dishes is just sweet potato cooked in water and nothing else, and we get the cooking liquid of the sweet potato reduced. So the sauce tastes a lot like sweet potato because the water doesn’t have an actual taste. This creates a minimalist way of cooking that is easier because you start with an extremely pure base. And all our vegetables are organic because you need good quality vegetables to cook this way. This minimalist concept extends beyond the menu to the restaurant’s design. Uniforms are by Issey Miyake. I know that Ore’s minimalism may polarize opinions. It evokes strong reactions, with guests either loving or hating it; there’s no in-between.
What do you think people will hate?
Because you either see the beauty of it or you don’t. Many people could say, ‘I can cook a sweet potato in water at home.’ But you
can’t cook this sweet potato with this water at home, and that’s the difference. So you either see the beauty in its simplicity or not. But I’m okay with both because I’m trying to do something new in the culinary world. That doesn’t really exist, and I’m okay with people saying ‘it’s not my thing’ because I’d rather pursue my passion and push boundaries in this industry. So if it fails, it’s all on me. I don’t want to do something that’s just in between or just existing. I also feel fortunate to have this opportunity because I came from a country with many economic challenges. And to get this opportunity to do whatever I want. Only a few people get this opportunity.
You’re also doing something very different with the drink pairings. Thai spirit and beverage pairings were done by teaming up with Dominik Jurasz. We didn’t want to do wine pairings because so many restaurants are doing it, and the wine pairings are usually imported. The guests that come to Ore have the money to go to France or Spain for good wine. So, we’ve done an alcohol pairing based only on spirits and beverages produced in Thailand, and it’s nice to push small businesses.
What else would you like our readers to know?
Ore has a very minimal approach to everything, and I want this concept to stand out because, right now, we’re entering a new era where we’re always thinking about what we can add to a dish to make it nicer.
That’s the goal of Lahnyai and most famous restaurants around the world. But for Ore, I think the exact opposite; I’m thinking about what I can take away for it to look nicer. I want to make it as simple as possible so everyone can focus on just one ingredient to put on a plate. I want people to know that my team and I researched where to find produce, how to source it, and the best place to get it. To reduce it to the absolute minimum.
This is beautiful but very hard to do.
It is very hard! For instance, Lahnyai takes more of a trendy approach to dishes; for Ore, it is way more difficult for me to handle because it is hard to cook just one ingredient and do it well because you can’t hide behind anything. Covering the dish with plenty of ingredients makes it easier to make it look and taste good. If we take away those accessories, they will have to surprise their guests in other ways: vegetables take center stage, and herbs become the main attraction.
What’s next for you? Are there any plans you can share with us?
Dylan (owner of restaurant Haawm) and I hope to do a permanent place later this year, building on our pop-up Krung—something more relaxed and enjoyable. We’re looking at somewhere around Charoenkrung or Yaowarat, somewhere with a bigger space, because Haawm can take only 16 guests, Ore can take eight guests, and Lahnyai can take 14, so definitely something bigger. ●
23 NO.837 I FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 29, 2024
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