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Guac Tease Who makes Bangkok's best guacamole? Anti-Plastic Preteens The middle-schoolers fighting plastic waste Eco Island Low-carbon getaways on laid-back Koh Mak Get Trashed Zero waste cocktails arrive at Bangkok bars
Is it winter yet? NO. 771 SEPTEMBER 27, 2019. www.bkmagazine.com
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page 3 Who's in charge? Managing Director & Publisher Andrew Hiransomboon Managing Editor Craig Sauers Associate Editor Willy Thorn Digital Editor Angela Symons Senior Digital Content Coordinator Nontaya Kumyat Digital Content Coordinator Pakchira Bunphol Junior Digital Content Coordinator Kawee Jarach Senior Writer Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley Writers Suthivas Tanphaibul, Reika Kobayashi Nidhiprabha
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 27, 2019
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Recycle this BK
upfront
Crusading against plastic waste
Fun fact: Thailand produces over 27 million tons of solid waste each year, and about half of that heads to the landfill. Here’s another one: a single person creates 1.14 kg of waste per day. If neither of these stats has triggered your anxiety, consider this: Thailand, the sixth-largest producer of plastic waste in the world, is for some reason importing plastic waste from other countries to use in the manufacture of new plastic products, because our own is unfit to use. How many dugongs have to die before we enact sustainable waste management strategies? Don’t answer that—you’ll just end up crying into your bottle of Nestlé. The point is we produce an awful lot of waste, and we don’t do a great job of reusing things when we’re done with them. To play our own small part in addressing this issue, we’re providing you with some clever ways to extend the lifespan of your BK Magazine.
Art Director Ratchprapha Sunthornprasat Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Senior Designer Assaya Dejkong Graphic Designers Anunya Chobnitas, Wirankan Saiyasombut Photographer Poonsawat Suttama Junior Videographers Jaruwan Suwandee, Tham Rodjananaudomvutigul Junior Video Editor Jakphet Potisarn Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai Sales Managers Tipkritta Chiraporncharas, Orajira Sukkasem Senior Sales Associates Tassanee Mahamad, Nattaya Bovornsettanon, Orakarn Laohakanjanasiri Sales Associate Parinda Dermsripoom Junior Marketing Executive Katthaleeya Tamkittigul ASIA CITY STUDIO Managing Editor Dietrich Neu Associate Editor Sureepak Janyapat Event Projects Manager Chayanap Tongdadas Event Coordinator Thanawat Buddhichewin Project Coordinator Sirinart Panyasricharoen Junior Project Coordinator Sawanya Chantarakana Senior Developers Prawee Wiangin, Wasan Wangrach Developer Nopanun Laochunanun Branded Content Writer Chakariya Cheewatara
06 cover
Challenging throwaway culture
SOIMILK Editor Nathapong Suppavatee Senior Writer Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan Writers Atiwat Uton, Sarin Songkriengkrai Junior Graphic Designer Wathinee Srithongchuai Brand Manager Onwara Sittirug Senior Sales Associate Kornkanok Sriwaranant Sales Associate Palita Nueangnit, Assistant Brand Manager Prawpraew Pairohg Finance Manager Supaporn Bangmoung Assistant Finance Manager Anchalee Limkhamduang Senior Accountant Maneeya Kanthongdang Accountant Manita Bangmoung Admin Executive Yaovaluck Srisermsri Interns Jesse Day, Kunthara Poonjaruwat, Wutthipat Jirabooncharoen, Jarupa Kiattipong, Puwanart Laddawan
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Create a rain hat No plastic? No problem. Mold your BK into a bonnet—a la “The Handmaid’s Tale”—and pop it on your head to shield yourself from the rain and the rhinovirus it’s been scientifically proven to carry.
Practice origami
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Cut your BK into squares and try to fold them into the shape of your favorite political figure. Another popular choice is the paper tiger. If folded correctly, this too should resemble your favorite political figure.
open doors
Ivy 47
Contributors Kathy MacLeod, Megan Leon
Make cat litter
Asia City Media Group
When your BK no longer sparks joy, don’t just throw it out— tear it into strips and set them in the litter box. The cat that your landlord and condo definitely allow you to have, approves.
Chief Executive Officer Greg Duncan (gduncan@asiacity.net) Director Gretchen Worth (gworth@asia-city.co.th)
Use it for documentation Bring your BK to Khao San and ask to have it repurposed into the official document of your choosing. Master’s degrees, PhDs, criminal background checks—you name it.
Where to find us!
The Asia City Media Group Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower 100 North Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 Email: bkmagazine@asia-city.co.th
BK “Asia City Living” Magazine is edited by Andrew Hiransomboon and published 24 times a year, twice a month by Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. Copyright ©2019 Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. The titles “BK Magazine,” “BK ‘Asia City Living’ Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of BK “Asia City Living” Magazine are the property of Asia City (Thailand) Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. Article reprints are available for B50 each. The magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Media Group (Thailand) Ltd. Contact the Advertising Department for ad rates and specifications. All advertising must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Comform Co.,Ltd. 212 Moo 13 Krungthepkreetha Rd., Saphansoong, Bangkok 10250
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taste test
neighborhood
Guacamole
MRT Wat Mangkon
Turn it into wrapping paper
Stash it away for “emergencies” No, your BK isn’t super soft, nor is it infused with aloe vera, but if nature calls when you’re strolling through Lumphini or dining out at your neighborhood Isaan joint, you’ll be thankful you have it.
Create jewelry or decor
get in the loop
With a little ingenuity and elbow grease, you can turn your BK into lucrative artwork. If you get enough copies, you can turn them into lampshades, decorative beads and rings. Set up the stall in JJ you’ve always dreamed of having, mark up those prices and watch the profits roll in.
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The holiday season in Bangkok—running from roughly September to March—is always just around the corner. Hold onto your BK and use it as wrapping paper for the hamper you purchase for that special someone in your life.
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Zero waste cocktails
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upfront
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SETPEMBER 27, 2019
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HOT OR NOT
ACTIVISM Watchdog Facebook group CSI LA—the same that exposed Prawit Wongsuwon’s luxury wristwatch collection—is now claiming Deputy Agriculture and Cooperatives Minister Thammanat Prompow’s PhD—earned from something called California University FCE—is bogus. Thammanat, meanwhile, has threatened to sue all the doubters. Fake it until you make it, we guess.
Meet the preteen activists fighting for a greener Bangkok Why were you inspired you to act now? My family has always been very environmentally active. I knew from a young age that something was wrong. Wherever you go in Thailand, you always see plastic. You can’t avoid it. My mom has always taught me that everything has feelings. When people or animals get hurt or something bad happens to the environment, I feel like it’s our fault and we need to act. INTERVIEW
Spearheaded by 12-year-old Ralyn “Lilly” Satidtanasarn— Thailand’s answer to Greta Thunberg—Bye Bye Plastic Bags Thailand is pushing for action against climate change at the highest levels. This growing group of middleschoolers has organized a citywide march, pressed businesses to ditch single-use plastics, and even gotten in the ear of the Prime Minister. Lilly talks about how they’re leading the fight for change.
THAT’S WHAT SHE SAID
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What’s the biggest problem Thailand faces right now?
How did you get a meeting with the Prime Minister?
Pressure from hundreds of civic and consumer groups has led the National Hazardous Substances Committee (NHSC) to explore a ban on three toxic agrochemicals by the end of this year. Those include paraquat—known to savage vital organs and banned in the EU since 2007—and glyphosate, the active chemical in Roundup, a weedkiller at the center of several multi-million dollar lawsuits. Better late than never?
We went to a meeting, kind of—more like a big event held by SCG. So many people were there, and we were trying to spread the word. The Prime Minister was there in the afternoon, and I got to speak with him a little about what we’re all doing and how we can change Thailand. What did you tell him?
Less than nine percent of waste in Thailand gets recycled. As you know, there are the three Rs—reduce, reuse and recycle. It’s in that order for a reason. We have to reduce first, then reuse and then recycle. If we still produce and create and just recycle, nothing is going to change. We have to cut this problem at the root.
That we have to stop everything that we’re doing wrong. At school, we’re always told that we shouldn’t be afraid of our mistakes. So why are we afraid of acting now? Even if we lose money because of it, we have to choose our planet over profit. He told me, “Yes, we’ll try.” Then I heard on the news that he had a big meeting with other ministers about addressing climate change.
What can we all be doing better?
What changes have resulted from your work?
We can urge companies to stop producing single-use plastics. Everyone has to stand up together—retailers, customers, producers— because companies don’t want to do it alone. It takes teamwork to create change.
Most companies have stopped using plastic once or twice a month. We’re slowly pushing them to one week, two weeks, three weeks.
Who have you met with so far?
Culture is one of the main avenues for change. It’s not okay to cut a line or walk out into the street without clothes. We have to make single-use plastics socially unacceptable. My grandma didn’t have them when she was growing up. If she didn’t need plastic, why do we? Craig Sauers
Central, the Mall Group, Tesco, Big C, Villa, the Minister of Natural Resources and the Environment, the Prime Minister [Prayuth Chan-o-cha]. My mom has a lot of connections. If we know a friend who works for a certain company, we ask him or her for the contact information for the highest-ranking person that they know in the company. We request a meeting until they accept it. We keep on emailing, keep on asking for meetings until they change their policies.
CHEMICALS
What will it take to turn sustainability into more than just a trend?
ALCOHOL As warnings against unregistered pharmacies shoot up on billboards across the city, Bangkok’s old apothecaries are changing their tune—with not one but two recently transforming into bars. Uncle Tim hasn’t left its roots entirely, offering Chinese medicine-laced cocktails, while Tai Soon Bar doles out craft beer from a counter resembling an old drug cabinet. Both are located in the Old Town.
SINGLE-USE PLASTICS We’re finally, maybe, possibly bagging the bag. According to the environment minister, several large retailers—including Central Group, The Mall Group, Big C and CP All, franchisor of 7-Eleven in Thailand— have agreed to stop doling out plastic bags to customers as of January 2020. The landmark agreement comes before a ban on single-use plastics and Styrofoam packaging takes effect in 2022.
by Kathy MacLeod (IG: @kathy_macleod)
9/20/19 6:00 PM
DISCOVER BANGKOK’S BEST BARS FOR LESS!
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THE LAST STRAW
cover | eco warriors
Thailand has promised to ban seven kinds of plastics between now and 2025. As we struggle to overcome our polyethylene love affair, these Bangkok businesses are helping to pave the way to a greener future. By Dhipkawee Sriyananda Selley
Bangkok Soap Opera Run by Ukrainian Maria Kalita, Bangkok Soap Opera recycles old cooking oil and everyday kitchen ingredients—anything that can become harmful waste—into eye-catching artisanal, handcrafted soaps and other skincare products, from sea salt scrubs to pink clay and rosella anti-aging masks.
Why did you start the business?
What do you use?
It was never planned as a business—it was literally a passion that I couldn’t stop doing. Many years ago in Poland, I learned how to formulate natural cosmetics. My background is in holistic medicine; I was excited to apply old-fashioned herbal medicine to everyday products. Back then, no one wanted my soap or really understood what I was doing. But I was so passionate that I barely cared. Moving to Bangkok, my husband and I noticed a lack of quality affordable organic cosmetics. We weren’t sure if Bangkok was a good place to start. We just had a feeling that we could give [people here] something different.
Our main ingredients are botanicals, fruits and vegetables—in powder or dry form. These include turmeric, roselle and lotus roots, carrots, pumpkin, papaya, strawberries, lemongrass and coffee. All soap is made from oil—we use sweet almond, apricot, avocado and jojoba oils. We don’t use synthetic fragrances or colors, so everything in the store is what nature gave us.
What's your message? I find it heartbreaking that a huge part of the community doesn’t have access to affordable, natural products. The only options are chemicals, which are harmful to health and to the environment. When we apply them to our bodies, they soak into our skin. When we take a shower, the chemicals get rinsed off into the city drains to the Chao Phraya, to the Gulf of Thailand, and then they return to us through the country’s harvest and drinking water. We offer an alternative. We make affordable products that are safe for our skin and planet. But we also know that producing good stuff is not enough—so we teach people how to produce natural things with simple, edible ingredients at home.
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What challenges have you faced? We were different, and we didn’t speak Thai. That was strange to Thai customers. Some would say, “How do you know our local ingredients? Are you really good at what you do?” We’d explain and they still wouldn’t buy anything, because they weren’t convinced. But we’re active on social media. We also do free events and workshops so people understand we’re not just a brand or a business. We produce stuff from scratch, by hand, and we can explain every product from A to Z. Who are your customers? You’d think expats, but 80 percent are Thai. I’d separate them into three groups. Welleducated people who know how to treat themselves well, have a healthy lifestyle and diet, and are turning to healthier cosmetics. Another group has sensitive skin and is looking for alternatives. The third would be zero waste people. We cut all the bars by hand, which means every single bar is different in size. That lets
us avoid unnecessary packaging, and that’s how zero waste customers found us. How often do you host workshops? We host workshops on a weekly basis. The first weekend of each month, we lead workshops on recycling cooking oil into natural soap. We also do free monthly community events at The Commons, where you can learn to make soap in a fun and sustainable way. We use waste cooking oil donated by Roast at The Commons. We take the leftover oil and recycle it into liquid soap, which we then give back to The Commons for them to use in their bathrooms. What's next for you? We have branches in Kuala Lumpur, New Delhi and Ukraine. By the end of this year, we plan to expand to Singapore, the Philippines and Myanmar. We teach in countries around Southeast Asia and have many talented students helping us expand. In Bangkok, we want to open a workshop space in our store for making natural products. Online, we’re planning to launch soap subscriptions. We’ll send monthly soaps with seasonal ingredients. 46/3 Soi Phum Chit, 085-348-9791. Open Mon-Fri 11am-7pm; Sat-Sun 10am-2pm. BTS Phra Khanong. fb.com/bangkoksoapopera
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Cheww.co Launched in March this year, Cheww.co is Thailand’s first plastic-free toothpaste tablet brand. Its mission? To see more Thais going tube-free with their toothpaste. The company is run by a team of five—two pharmacists, one logistics manager, one design researcher and one marketer, Kevalin “Liu” Saksiamkul. Liu talks to us about the ideas behind Cheww.co.
Refill Station Refill Station is Thailand’s first bulk store where you can refill your empty containers of shampoo, shower gel, detergent and more. Three friends are behind the project: Supatchaya “Ann” Techachoochert, a PhD candidate in biology at Mahidol University; Chanin “Nammon” Srisuman, a renewable energy project manager; and Papawee “Pear” Pongthanavaranon, co-founder of Better Moon cafe and guesthouse. Pear talks about how Refill Station was born.
Why did you start the business?
What do you think of Bangkok’s plastic use?
The idea came to us around two years ago. My friends and I have always been involved in environmental activities and thought, “Why can’t we all start somewhere small?” When it comes to helping the environment, why do we always have to go to camps or join activities that are far away? We wanted it to be something of an everyday habit, so we were looking for several ideas that would work best. We saw how popular bulk stores are in many other countries. Nobody here had done one yet, so we decided to open our own.
Most of our customers live the same way we do, which we think is fantastic. But the country as a whole is a completely different story. Reducing plastic use, recycling, educating, infrastructure—that’s where we as a country are still behind.
What’s your message? Little things make great change. We used to get comments from people saying things like, “Not using just one plastic straw or one plastic bottle isn’t going to change anything.” We disagree. If we start making small changes every day, they will eventually lead to much bigger change. What products do you carry? When people think of Refill Station, they think dishwashing liquid, laundry detergent and floor cleaners. But we have more variety. Reusable straws, silicone food bags, straw sleeves, foldable water bottles, bamboo toothbrushes and vegetable net bags— anything that curbs plastic use. We carry products from other brands, too, especially zero waste products. What are your bestsellers? Our collapsible coffee cups and brushes for reusable straws are quite popular. We also get regular customers coming in to refill their bottles.
What else can people do to help? Everyone can do something small. For example, at offices, there should be multiple bins for different types of trash, including a place where you can throw away the ice before tossing the plastic cups into recycling bins. It’s the little things that count. The problem is some people think that what they do won’t make a difference. We need to stop that way of thinking. We need to raise awareness and [build] knowledge, because that’s what Thailand lacks right now. What’s next for you? Besides running the store, I want to do more community and educational projects to change people’s plastic consumption habits. My true goal is to help the community reduce the use of plastic. Other than that, I’m also open to give support and advice for people who want to open their own bulk store. Right now we have supplies to help you jumpstart your business.
Why did you start the business? My background is in design, but I still believe product design alone won’t solve problems as complex as environmental issues. By applying systems design, I wanted to create a product to curb daily plastic use. There are already reusable straws, coffee cups, tote bags and bamboo toothbrushes on the market, but no toothpaste tubes. I looked at what resources I had around me and formed a team. That’s how Cheww.co was born. What’s your message? Solving waste problems requires whole systems thinking. We communicate through the three pillars of sustainability—economic, environmental and social. Our toothpaste tablets are made from ingredients that can only be produced in Thailand. We use water-free production processes to reduce wasted resources and recyclable glass containers as packaging, so our customers can reuse them. We also encourage customers to bring in their own containers to refill. What are your products made of? Our main ingredients are natural—sweeteners like sorbitol and mannitol, which can be found in root vegetables and berries; mint essential oils, which have antibacterial properties in the mouth; salt, which helps soothe your gums, and foaming agents extracted from coconuts. These ingredients come in powder form, and are then compressed into tablets by a GMP-certified manufacturer in Thailand. What challenges have you faced? Creating a paradigm shift among the general public. As a brand, we know we can’t do this alone, so we’re partnering with eco- entrepreneurs and eco-friendly stores, as well as media. I believe we can have a sustainable future if we all work together. What has feedback been? We’re very small and niche, and we’ve had some difficulty reaching new groups, but we’re on the right path and growing. We’re still learning and adjusting, too—we’ve only been open six months. What’s next for you? Currently, I’m [working on] a master’s degree in Leadership to Sustainability at Malmo University in Sweden, but Cheww.co’s team in Bangkok is still very active, and we’re finding new ways to create a more sustainable future for Thai consumers. We’re also in the middle of developing new products, which should be ready early next year. 51/75 Viphawadi Soi 66, 094-441-4622. Open Mon-Sat 9am-8pm. fb.com/chewwco
Better Moon, Sukhumvit Soi 77/1, 062-4915324. Open daily 8am-9:30pm. BTS Onnut. fb.com/refillstationbkk
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What are some challenges you’ve faced? In the beginning our idea was new and there was no one like us on the market. People didn’t really understand what we were doing, so they would ask us, “So you’re selling liquid pumps?” or “Why are your products not 100 percent organic?” Even my family wondered whether this was a good idea. Now people want bulk stores and ask if we’re going to open a franchise.
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food & drink
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 27, 2019
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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 27, 2019
Why did you start the business?
Swap ‘Til You Drop! American expats Jessica Teal and Carla Soledad Rivera organized Swap ‘Til You Drop to encourage women to trade clothes they no longer wear. Their message? For women to be mindful about fast fashion and more aware of how much waste we create.
Jessica: Six years ago, I went to a clothing swap at Attic Studios and thought, “This is so amazing!” I’m originally from California, and there are so many secondhand shops there. I’ve always loved the concept of clothes swapping and thought I could try it from my house and see how it goes. I had a clothing swap right after the Nepal earthquake in 2015, where we donated most of the collections to Nepal for the victims. A few days later, Carla contacted me about the donation and we made a connection. Eventually, the swap became too large to handle at my house, so I moved it to The Home BKK, which Carla had founded. Personally, starting the swap was a way to meet other like-minded individuals. It was also a way for me to have more access to Western sizes and decrease my own shopping. It’s almost too easy to shop in Bangkok. Before, I shopped four to six times per month; now it’s four to six times per year. It’s a more sustainable way of life, and it’s mindful of the fast fashion industry and the effects it has on our environment. What’s your message? Carla: Creating consciousness on consumption and awareness of how much waste we create. My philosophy has changed as a fashion designer. My design perspective became more service-based over product-based. I started asking, where do the clothes go afterwards if they’re not bought? Jessica: It’s also about not contributing to consumerism. It’s hard to avoid it, but this is one way that you can contribute to a more sustainable society and circular economy. How does the clothes swap work? Jessica: It’s all very casual. You show up with your items, follow the signs and exchange whatever you want. Clothing, shoes, accessories—there’s no limit. One time, 60 girls came and we had 144 kg of leftover clothes. You’ll always find something to take home. We also do free-flow sangria.
What happens after the swap? Jessica: We’ve experimented with different situations. We got excited for leftover fabrics and started making bags, dreamcatchers and accessories. But that was too much to keep up. So now, after every swap, the Scholars of Sustenance charity picks things up. Na Projects also redistributes the collected items to less fortunate neighborhoods. What challenges have you faced? Jessica: The number of people. Sometimes the area gets overcrowded, and so we’re always troubleshooting on the spot. Another problem is getting people to bring the right items. Carla: Some people misinterpret swapping as dumping. You don’t want to know what we’ve seen! Jessica: We’re not a dumpsite. Clothes swapping is not for you to get rid of stuff you can’t use anymore. It’s a place to bring things that you can exchange with other people, to keep life going in that item. How often do you host swaps? Jessica: We do it on the third week of every month from 7pm-10pm [the day varies]. In October, we’ll swap at Aesop’s Greek restaurant the day before Halloween. We’re telling people to bring purples, blacks and oranges, so they can create Halloween looks from the swap. What’s next for you? Jessica: Swaps at different locations to test different scenarios. I’d like to bring in more men and do swaps for holidays like Halloween. I’d also like to collaborate with more organizations and charities to bring life to leftover items. We’re connected with Eco Beasts (ecobeastsbkk.com), a sustainability campaign program that connects international schools in Bangkok. I’m designing a mini swap, so students can run their own at the end of the year. I’d love a secondhand shop as an affordable and accessible version of the swap. Maybe do swaps for furniture and home decor. I could base my whole life on hand-me-downs. Carla: As a designer, definitely continue to utilize waste through workshops. I want to focus more on the service side, and work towards upcycling and recycling through design. The Home BKK, 120/18 Sukhumvit Soi 23 (Soi Prasanmit), 082-495-2121. Open MonFri 11am-6pm. BTS Asok. fb.com/swaptilyoudropbkk
BULK UP Zero waste shopping is the way forward. Here are four more bulk stores and refilleries to kick your plastic habit to the curb
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ZEROMOMENT REFILLERY
TOST & FOUND
ATNEST HOSTEL
NORMAL SHOP
@Home Residence, Ramkhamhaeng Soi 24, 082-465-9262. Open TueSun 10am-7pm. fb.com/ zeromomentrefillery
Seenspace, Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2728. Open daily 11am-10pm. fb.com/ seenspace13
Silom Soi 21, 02-227-0905. Open daily 9am-5pm. fb.com/atnesthostel
Nanglinchee Rd. Open Tue-Sat 8am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. fb.com/ NormalshopRefill
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BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 27, 2019
BK’s BAD Awards celebrate the very best of Bangkok when the sun goes down, from cocktail lounges to buzzing clubs and local dives. Book your ad in the print guide within Sep 30 and get
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hit list | 22 new reasons to love bangkok
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 27, 2019
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01
Mandarin Oriental unveils 52 luxurious floors at IconSiam
ATTRACTION
Bangkok welcomes yet another ultra-luxury condominium, this time with sweeping views of the Chao Phraya River. The new Residences at the Mandarin Oriental stands alongside IconSiam, which opened last November. A joint venture between IconSiam Superlux Residence Corporation Ltd and Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group, the 52-story, B11-billion development features 146 waterfront-facing rooms. It features two-bedroom and three-bedroom options ranging from 130-230 sq-meters and swanky 380-710 sq-meter penthouses. For a fully-furnished room, prices range from an eye-watering B550,000 per sq-meter for a two-bedroom unit to B750,000 per sq-meter for a seven-bedroom penthouse. Ready to do the math? The cheapest apartment available—127.87 sq-meters, with two bedrooms—runs B70.3 million. The most expensive penthouse—707.28 sq-meters—costs B530.4 million. Mandarin Oriental’s residences are world-renowned, though, and the facilities here are nothing short of impeccable. Thanks to the interior work of Hong Kong’s award-winning designer Joyce Wang, residents can expect sumptuous spaces, gleaming Italian marble, custom furniture and fixtures, sought-after rare antiques, and artisanal crafts sourced from around the world. Throw in celebrity neighbors, and it’s like living in the pages of socialite magazines.
GO GREEN
Bring your reusable cups to these coffee shops to get a discount:
SHOPPING
CINEMA
TECH
02 Stussy opens its first
03 Binge on over 150 indie
04 Behold Apple’s triple-
Bangkok pop-up store Coffeelism stand (B5) Sathorn Soi 8, 095-5682690. Open Mon-Fri 8am3pm; Sat 9am-3pm
Flow Coffee Roasters (B5) Silom Connect, Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra Rd., 086531-3229. Open daily 9:30am-4:30pm
Still your hearts, Stussy fans. The OG streetwear brand has opened its first pop-up store in Bangkok, offering a cool lineup of striking prints and rich autumnal hues to jazz up your wardrobe. Head there to cop the Fall 2019 collection, which features style staples in classic patterns like argyle, paisley, checker and camouflage. Standouts include the panel track jacket (B6,700) and the Stussy stripe crew tee (B3,600). Also exclusive to the pop-up store is the brand’s showcase of vintage archival pieces. 5/F, Siwilai Store, Central Embassy; through Oct 15.
flicks at House Samyan’s film buffet
House Samyan is slated for a late September opening in Samyan Mitrtown, and the new venue is already giving Bangkok cinephiles plenty to be excited about. From Oct 7-31, it will host a “Film Buffet” featuring over 150 international indie films, each for one showing only. To get access to all 150 become a House member (B500) by dropping a message at fb.com/housesamyan. Other membership perks include free limited-edition merchandise and free entry to special activities and events.
camera Pro iPhone
What: iPhone 11 Pro Price: From B35,900 Why? Despite its trypophobia-triggering multilens back, the iPhone 11 Pro has one of the best camera sets of any smartphone. Boasting a normal camera, a 2x telephoto and a 120-degree ultra wide, it will make photography nerds everywhere sing with joy. Other highlights include an improved battery (with four more hours of life than the iPhone XS) and a so-called “Super Retina XDR” OLED display that makes photos, videos and movies even more impressive. Oh, and that matte finish in Midnight Green? We dig it. Sale date TBA.
Gallery Drip Coffee (B5) 1/F, Bangkok Art and Culture Center (BACC), 939 Rama 1 Rd., 081989-5244. Open Tue-Sun 10:30am-8:30pm
Roots Coffee Roaster (B10) The Commons, Thonglor Soi 17, 097-059-4517. Open Mon-Thu 8am-8pm; Fri-Sun 8am-9pm
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Shop Talk How to spend your hardearned baht.
BUY IT VEJA “ESPLAR” LEATHER WHITE SNEAKERS The perfect pair of shoes to slip on for any occasion (B4,500). Available at Siam Discovery.
BIN IT BALENCIAGA MARKET TOTE A copy of the Sampeng market bag for B50,000? Seriously?
BARGAIN CENTRAL EMBASSY “THE BIG GIVEAWAY” Spend B5,000 at Central Embassy for a chance to win a two-night luxury stay at Raya Heritage, Chiang Mai; through Nov 10.
9/20/19 4:40 PM
hit list | calendar
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 27, 2019
13
NIGHTLIFE
AFRODEESIAC 2019 Light up the dance floor up with blazing Afro-Latin DJs—Tango Kizz, Kizomba, Semba and more. Oct 3-7, 8pm. The Westin Grande Sukhumvit, 259 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-207-8000. B3,050/ regular; B6,100/Festival Pass.
05
Indie legend Bon Iver comes to Bangkok
WATERZONIC 2019 It’s only six months to Songran. Start celebrating now at this massive water festival headlined by renowned DJs Excision, Nicky Romero and Yellow Claw. Oct 4-5, 6pm. Show DC, 99/6-9 Rim Klong Bangkapi Rd., 02-203-1888. B3,500/regular, B4,800/VIP via Ticketmajor.
KOH: LAB AT LUNA A mammoth set of electronic and techno music, starring a DJ duo born-and-raised in India. Oct 4, 11:59pm. Luna Lounge, 6/1 Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-040-3385. Free.
CONCERT
Ground-breaking indie collective Bon Iver is coming to Bangkok for the first time on Jan 15, performing in roomy, sonicallyideal Moonstar Studios. Founded by Wisconsin-native Justin Vernon, the group rocketed to fame after the release of its debut album For Emma, Forever Ago. Driven by Vernon’s haunting falsetto and a willingness to experiment with synthesizers and effects pedals, the band has graduated from early folk songs like “Skinny Love” to more inventive cuts like “22 (OVER S∞∞N)” and “Hey, Ma,” off 2019 album i,i. B2,230 via Ticketmelon.
VIBE MEETS KARMA RHYME SOUNDSYSTEM Mad jungle and reggae sounds. Oct 5, 9pm. De Commune, 1/F, Liberty Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 088-419-7380. B200. MUSTACHE TAKEOVER The local DJ crew invades a rooftop with melodic techno and deep house. Oct 6, 4pm. Spectrum Lounge & Bar, Sukhumvit Soi 13, 02-0981234. B400 includes one drink via Eventpop. OKTOBERFEST 2019 Celebrate the autumn beer festival with a techno-house pool party. Oct 12, 2pm. DoubleTree by Hilton Sukhumvit, 18/1 Sukhumvit Soi 26. Tickets start at B400 via Eventpop.
LIVE MUSIC
CONCERT
CONCERT
06 American rock band Nothing to make Thailand debut
07 Catch A$AP Ferg in Bangkok this October
On Oct 12, Nothing will make their Thailand debut at Thonglor’s live music venue Speakerbox. The band’s second studio album, Tired of Tomorrow (2016), earned a coveted spot in Pitchfork’s 50 Best Shoegaze Albums of All Time, thanks to its perfect balance of hardcore-punk and shimmering, melancholic shoegaze. Tickets start at B1,000 via Eventpop.
Harlem rapper and A$AP Mob star A$AP Ferg will make his Bangkok debut at Airport Link Makkasan on Oct 11. Since winning Rookie of the Year at 2013’s BET Hip Hop Awards, his energetic beats have lit up dancefloors worldwide with club hits like “Plain Jane” and “Work”—the latter of which has topped 100 million YouTube views. From B2,300 via Ticketmelon.
AMAZING BUSINESS TRIP & FRIENDS Taiwanese pop-rock act Sunset Rollercoaster joins local chillwave group Gym and Swim. Oct 5, 7pm. Voice Space, 197 BBD Building, Viphawadi Rangsit Rd., 02-650-6000. B1,500 via Ticketmelon. THE BLACK SKIRTS [THIRSTY] ASIA TOUR Jo Hyu-il, aka The Black Skirts, brings his laid-back, romantic stylings to Bangkok. Oct 6, 8pm. De Commune, 088-419-7380. B1,800 via Eventpop.
THEATER
What to catch at Bangkok’s International Festival of Dance and Music
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BUDAPEST SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA One of Europe’s finest; the Hungarian orchestra has been in operation for over a century. Oct 13, 7:30pm. Tickets start at B1,200 via Thaiticketmajor.
LADY ZHAOJUN Chinas’s legendary performer Li Yugang, earned the Outstanding Asian Artist Award for nan dan roles—female characters played by men. The story is based on a Han Dynasty legend, about the extraordinarily beautiful Wang Zhaojun. Oct 5-6, 7:30pm. Tickets start at B1,500 via Thaiticketmajor.
INTRODANS Riveting performances of creative choreography from dance virtuosos in one of Holland’s leading modern ballet companies. Oct 11 and Oct 13, 7:30pm. Tickets start at B1,200 via Thaiticketmajor. Thailand Cultural Center (TCC) 14 Thiam Ruam Mit Rd., 02-247-0028
SOFT PINE The Bangkok indie rockers celebrate their debut with a live gig. Oct 12, 8:30pm. De Commune, 088-419-7380. B150 includes one drink.
ART
MAYA ART OPENING Tan Kositpipat’s first solo exhibition is a collection of dark and heavy, rough-sketched realism. Through Oct 14, Lhong 1919, 248 Chiang Mai Rd., 091-187-1919. Free. FIGURATIVELY SPEAKING An oil-painting exhibition of brilliant nudes; Mathus Tuachob studied Classical Realism at the Los Angeles Academy of Figurative Art. Through Nov 5. Midnice Gallery, Chockchai 4 Soi 18 (Ladprao), 086-282-0282. Free. PLACES & TRACES An interactive storytelling exhibition by a local illustrator and artist who discovered her natural talents traveling the world. Through Dec 2, 5pm. Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, 188 Silom Rd., 02-3524000. Free.
SCREEN
IRISH FILM 2019 Short and feature films with Irish cultural themes. Oct 4-6, 8:30pm. Bangkok Screening Room, 2/F, Woof Pack Building, 1/3-9 Sala Daeng Soi 1. B90/student and B120/ member.
WORKSHOP
FLORAL WORKSHOP Craft pretty floral hearts for your loved ones. Ten percent of proceeds go to The Heart Foundation of Thailand. Sep 29, 2pm. Naiipa Art Complex, 46 Sukhumvit Soi 46, 062-553-5345. B2,500/ person.
TALK
POETRY SLAM A spoken-word tournament with daring, bold and creative poetry presented loud and live on stage. Oct 4, 7pm. Live Lounge Bangkok, 10/47 Trendy Building, Sukhumvit Soi 13. Free for members; B300 general admission.
FAIR
ONE NIGHT ONLY WITH KIM KOH KON Jennifer Kim sings accompanied by Koh Mr. Saxman and Kong Saharat. Oct 5. Spectrum, 30-31/F, Hyatt Regency Bangkok Sukhumvit, 1 Sukhumvit Soi 13, 02-0981234. B3,500 for standing with tapas and free-flow drinks.
ARTS AND TECH FAIR Kraft Kraft Market offers film photography gear, art supplies, design items and eco-friendly crafts at Siam Square’s hipster rendezvous Lido Connect. Sep 27-29, 256 Rama I Rd. Free.
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travel | trat
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 27, 2019
14
Peace Out
Ditch fire shows and buckets for bike rides and early nights on Koh Mak. By Angela Symons If you’re looking to get away from the droves of tourists on Thailand’s southern islands, then a visit to the eastern province of Trat should top your list. Billed as Thailand’s “eco island,” Trat’s Koh Mak is the type of island paradise that you thought was lost to the history books. Here, islanders actively discourage the partygoers that frequent the likes of Koh Phangan and Koh Tao, instead hoping to attract those seeking nature, culture and tranquility.
Koh Mak Museum To understand Koh Mak, you must first delve into the island’s history. Koh Mak Museum (Ao Nid Pier. Open daily 10:30am-5pm. Free entry) takes over the charming, century-old, rickety wooden home of one of Koh Mak’s five wealthy founding families, who still own 90 percent of the island to this day. The eclectic mix of local artefacts—tablewares, photographs, retro telephones—is brought to life in Thai-language tours led by owner and family member Tanin Suttitanakool, punctuated with personal anecdotes. Coco Cape Bridge
One such story tells of the first westerners to visit the island in the late ‘60s—a group of Germans who heard about Koh Mak through islanders studying abroad. On arrival, they found the island devoid of electricity—ergo, devoid of their lifeblood: cold beer. To rectify the situation, Tanin’s father embarked on what was in those days a 14-hour mission to the mainland and back. Over the years to come, the Germans would arrive with ever larger groups of travelers eager to discover what they’d dubbed the “Lost World,” thanks to Koh Mak’s absence from world maps at the time. After you’ve had your fill of history, head to the family’s neighboring Koh Mak Seafood (089833-4474. Open daily 10am-9pm) for a feast of pla neung manao (steamed fish with chili and lime, B390) and gaeng pa Koh Mak (hot seafood curry with coconut milk, B180).
Low Carbon Initiative Seavana Beach Resort
Though these days Koh Mak welcomes around 120,000 visitors per year, the island feels secluded even during high season (Oct-May) thanks to limited development along its coastlines. This is something the locals are fighting hard for through the sustainability-driven Local One Project. On top of promoting renewable energy, recycling and efficient use of water, the initiative fosters sustainable tourism, embraces traditional ways of life and fights the larger resorts’ wishes to extend high season. Through the low carbon project, the locals hope to attract visitors who share their vision rather than succumbing to mass tourism. Following 10 years of debate, the island’s inhabitants agreed to a set of rules, which include the prohibition of foam packaging; the discouragement of engine-powered water sports such as jet skis and banana boats; opposition to tourists bringing vehicles to the island; avoidance of agricultural chemicals; and a ban on 24-hour convenience stores (that’s right, no 7-Eleven!). They’re also seeking to expand renewable energy—at
present, under 10 percent of the island’s power comes from solar.
Get Involved Organic garden – Visit Koh Mak Resort’s organic garden (089-600-9597) to see orchards filled with chemical-free fruits, elaborate vegetable patches and sustainable honey farms—all put to use in the resort’s restaurant. Cycling – Thanks to Koh Mak’s relatively flat terrain, the island is easily explored by bicycle (rental from B150/day), so ditch the moped for a breezy ride through shaded rubber plantations, golden temple grounds and strikingly verdant greenery. Be sure to end your journey at sunset at Coco Cape Bridge—a ramshackle wooden pier jutting into the ocean with a bar at the end (Chang, B80). Kayak to Koh Kham – Rather than take a longtail boat, hire a kayak from Seavana or Koh Mak Resort (Ao Suan Yai) and paddle 30 minutes to the small private island of Koh Kham (B100 entry), where white sand beaches are punctuated by striking black volcanic rock, surrounded by crystal clear waters ripe for snorkeling. Pick up trash – An official trash collection group, Trash Hero (www.trashhero.org), meets at 9am every Saturday at Coco Market. BYOB! – If history’s taught us anything, it’s to bring our own beer. Jokes aside, there are convenience stores on the island, but these close by 9pm—so be sure to stock up ahead of time. Though the island is not prone to partying, most resorts have on-site bars that serve well into the night.
Getting There Bangkok Airways flights to Trat cost upwards of B4,000 return, though you can reach the province in as little as four hours by car. For a greener way, brave the five-hour bus from Ekkamai to Laem Ngop Pier (B250 one-way), where boats to Koh Mak run regularly from 10:30am to 4pm in high season (B450 one-way for one-hour speedboat, or B200 for three-hour slow boat). Check ahead for the schedule during low season (Jun-Oct).
Where to Stay Located on the quiet and pristine Ao Suan Yai beach, Seavana Beach Resort Koh Mak’s palmfringed boutique accommodations and beachfront infinity pool offer the perfect place to kick back. A superior double costs B3,300 including breakfast, while the beachfront suite features a private sea view garden and outdoor hot tub for B5,900.
Mainland Trat Once back on terra firma, take a tour of Ban Tha Ranae community (B300/person; call Khun Saichon Sunet 08-11616694 to book). Traditional weaving and natural tie-dying demonstrations are followed by a fairytale-like journey into the
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mangrove forest, where you’ll walk across a seemingly endless bed of roots laying across the forest like snakes. To add to the fun, the locals have set up a natural 10-pin bowling alley in the forest. Finish by sampling rare local delicacies such as
fried mangrove leaves and life-lengthening tea made from the rare herb hydnophytum formicarum. You can also spend the night at the homestay, which includes a tour and three meals (from B890/person).
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travel | news
15
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 27, 2019
CHIANG RAI
09 Declutter your mind
08
at this weekend wellness retreat
Take an Insta-worthy bath at Nan’s hottest homestay
09
Tired of doing your downward-facing dog in a cramped Bangkok yoga studio? Museflower’s weekend wellness festival in Chiang Rai might be the chakra-aligning experience you need. The fifth Museflower Life Festival, hosted by Museflower Retreat & Spa Chiang Rai, runs Oct 11-14. Nourish your soul with a range of New Age-y activities, including Kaoshikii dances, crystal singing bowl meditation, forest bathing, soul writing, sacred fires, vegetarian buffets featuring produce picked from the onsite organic farm and—yes—yoga. One-day passes are B1,200, with single classes priced at B600/60 minutes, B900/90 minutes and B1,200/120 minutes. musefloweretreat.com
11
NAN
Posing in bathtubs in front of scenic windowscapes is suddenly a thing on Instagram, but if you’re looking to bare (mostly) all in a locale a little more rustic than the beachfront, check out Srinaman. Located 30 minutes from Nan’s center, in Santi Suk District’s hills, this hideaway offers privacy and natural landscapes, including bathtubs in front of windows that look out onto vivid green rice paddies. All five lodges—priced at B2,990/ night—are kitted out with Lanna furnishings, polished concrete, nipa palm canopies and shallow mosaic bathtubs. Wholesome activities include Lanna khantoke breakfasts on trays and fresh produce from the lodge’s organic farm. There’s an outdoor pool, too, if you need more photos for your feed. fb.com/srinaman.nan
KORAT
AYUTTHAYA
10 This cottage cafe
11 Camp amid rice
belongs in Germany’s Black Forest
paddies at this back-to-nature retreat
Surrounded by well-manicured flower gardens, Mom’s Cottage brings a decidedly European aesthetic to Nakhon Ratchasima’s rolling meadows. From the outside, the charming stone house looks like it belongs in the Black Forest—all beige stone walls surrounded by purple verbenas and mountains. Inside, a giant fireplace, wood rafters accenting white walls, sliding barn doors and faded framed pictures make for cozy surroundings while sipping a cup of coffee. In other words, expect to have to jostle for positioning when trying to snap that perfectly framed photo of your latte. .fb.com/momcottage
Forget everything you know about camping—and coffee culture, for that matter. Ecofriendly camp-slash-cafe Horm Glin Ya puts you right in the thick of Ayutthaya’s natural bounty, offering five camping tents—equipped with air-con and two floor mattresses each— set on elevated walkways in the rice paddies (from B1,200/night, with special barbeque dinner parties available Sat, Sun, holidays and by reservation). If tenting isn’t your thing, you can still pop into the cafe for a coffee, take a stroll on the bamboo bridges or plonk down for a nap in one of the canalside hammocks. fb.com/hormglinya.ayutthaya
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8/16/19 2:43 PM
9/20/19 4:50 PM
food & drink | open doors
12 Thai premiership footballers preside over Ivy 47 The buzz: Take defunct modern bistro Freebird, put it in the hands of a pair of Bangkok United stars, revamp the menu with a French-leaning list of grilled proteins, and you’ve got Phrom Phong’s latest place to be seen. The decor: Maybe it’s the glamorous clientele, or maybe it’s the crisp white linens, monochrome aesthetic and dripping mood lighting, but this place feels like money. In the backyard, you’ll find a big staircase leading up to a glamorous yet downbeat bar. The food: Think Cocotte but more upscale. Head chef Francois Lecouvez (formerly of Alliance Française’s Cafe 1912) hits all bases with his concise menu. To start, order the fresh, zingy Scottish salmon tartare with yuzu ponzu and truffle dressing, sweet soya and apple jelly, punchy wasabi mayo and creamy guacamole (B450) or the plump Hokkaido scallops with sunchoke and chorizo foam (B650), followed by glazed Maine lobster in ginger and port wine jus (B1,300) or succulent 270-day grain-fed Australian Angus rib eye (B1,200/250g). Finish off with the refreshing Melon Bergamot—Japanese melon, elderflower, bergamot meringue
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and tangy honey Greek yogurt ice cream (B350). The drinks: Curated by Sommelier Jordan Cortes Alvares (L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon), the diverse wine list charts Qba Trocken, Weingut Wittmann Riesling (B2,300), La Grange de Peres Rouge 2014 (B8,900), and a handful of options by the glass (from B320). Upstairs is a sleek yet funky bar, where an upbeat playlist accompanies cocktails designed by Vogue Lounge’s Francesco Moretti. Try the Lost in Thailand—Matusalem rum, coconut, galangal, kaffir lime, lemongrass, passion fruit, pineapple, all spice and Perrier (B350). The bar also serves fancy snacks like oysters (B350/three) and cold cuts (B450). The crowd: Don’t be alarmed if you encounter a dressy crowd. Owner Sam Nordine used to be a pro soccer player, and co-owner Tristan Do still plays for Bangkok United. This might become the new hangout for Thai Premier League groupies. Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj and Angela Symons
28 Sukhumvit Soi 47, 02-116-5253. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight
9/24/19 3:45 PM
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 27, 2019
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Mahasan Burnt & Bowl
NEW AND NOTED
13 Charoenkrung's popular steakhouse gets a bigger home
14 Thonglor’s new cafe-gallery makes art super accessible
15 More pedigreed Japanese coffee hits Bangkok
Charoenkrung’s perpetually booked Mahasan Burnt & Bowl (2016/4647 Chan Soi 23/1. fb.com/mahasanmeatyou) has finally opened its new venue. The original debuted in late 2018 and rocketed to fame with pocket-friendly steaks—e.g., a 500-gram T-bone cooked to order for just B580—served in a simple, homey room with just four tables. The steakhouse quickly resorted to a regimented, timed email booking system to handle reservations in the thousands. The new Yannawa location is basically double the size. It has eight tables, which can accommodate four-to-six diners each; the kitchen is twice as large and has two stoves. Now we’ll just be competing for tables against hundreds.
Located literal steps from BTS Thonglor BTS, Palette Artspace (1055-57 Sukhumvit Soi 55, 064587-6788) is a four-story gallery with a Muji-esque white-washed cafe on the ground floor. Grab a coffee (B64) and cupcake—carrot, toffee latte or red velvet (all B95)—from Palette Milk Bar before venturing upstairs to browse rotating exhibitions by Thai and international artists. The building also includes workshop spaces. The project is run by Watjanasin “Note” Charuwattanakitti and his three siblings—the family also owns and operates the Karmavijitra Museum of erotica (Sukhumvit Soi 38) and nearby Green Lantern gallery and bar.
Kyoto’s Kurasu began as an online store selling Japanese coffee products. Now, it's roasting and serving coffee around the world—including Bangkok (Bambini Villa 18, 1 Soi Athakravi). Here, specialist blends are served in a minimalist open space, with brewing guides and equipment, tasting notes, custom drip bags and coffee kettles (you read that right) also available. The matcha latte espresso is made with home-brewed coffee and artisanal matcha from Japan (B160), and it's only available in Thailand. The anko red bean butter toast (B150) is also a Thai-only menu item.
TABLE TALK
Hokkai-Don 6/F, The Helix Emquatier, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-6036200. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong Hokkai-Don presents a quality sushi bar without the painful price tags. Its energetic staff lift the atmosphere with their cheerful spirits and attentive service, offering an impressive menu of sushi, sashimi, and rice bowls alongside fusion dishes like the unagi cheese roll (grilled eel topped with cheese on riceberry rolls). There are some interesting beverages, too, like the Nigorishu—unfiltered sake that tastes sweet and mild, with a slight fruity note.
Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get 10% discount when spending THB 2,000 or more / sales slip 01 Sep ’19 – 29 Feb ’20
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TABLE TALK
Sushi Cyu 3/F, CentralWorld, 999/9 Rama I Rd., 065-731-4844. Open daily 11am-10pm The sushi arm of this sushi and yakiniku specialist lets you try the omakase experience for under B3,000. The restaurant also frequently invites pedigreed chefs into the kitchen for premium culinary events, such as this Edo-style omakase dinner taking place between Oct 5-6, 8-13, and 15 with chef-owner of Fukuoka's Sushi Gyoten, Kenji Gyoten—the youngest chef in Japan to be awarded 3 Michelin stars. His restaurant is known for its six-month wait lists, so best book before it's too late.
Exclusively for Citi credit card members Get a complimentary Appetizer valued THB 200 when ordering Omakase 13 Courses (limit 1 dish /card /table / sales slip) 01 Oct ’19 – 31 Mar ’20 Get a complimentary Welcome Drink valued THB 350 when ordering 3*Michelin Chef Kenji Gyoten Course (limit 1 glass /card /table /sales slip) 5-6, 8-13 and 15 Oct ’19
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Kokopan
Serial Laughter
NEW AND NOTED
16 Japanese minimalism abounds at this sleek bakery
17 This hidden bar wants you to lighten up a little
18 Gaggan and Mark Wiens are taking it to the street
There’s something satisfying about effortless minimalism, and Kokopan (60/22-23 Silom Rd., 095-654-4560) offers just that. The name translates to ‘bread is here’ in Japanese, and the bakery-slash-cafe was inspired by the three owners’ hometown. Located at the newly-opened Vive Silom hotel, the venue is rife with picturesque corners, perfect for your Instagram feed. Try the kinako (roasted soybean flour) toast with kuromitsu (black honey) syrup and vanilla ice cream (B185) with a yuzu citrus coffee (B90), or get the Kokopan Set—homemade mini-croissants DIY toasted on a grill at your table (B285).
Conversation with the bartenders might be good for a laugh, but when it comes to drinks, there’s no funny business happening at this hidden bar in Phrom Phong. Serial Laughter (51 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-005-0226) comes from the team behind The Key Room No. 72, a speakeasy hidden inside Ari’s Josh Hotel. This bar is likewise located within another venue. In this case, that’s new southern Thai restaurant Marigold. Expect spirit-forward signatures like Find Me Under The Coconut Tree (B340) and well-balanced, fruitier concoctions like the pineapple-infused Act Like Summer (B380), served in a space embellished with Art Deco interiors and lots of jade green.
Tied together by foodie investor Itan (Kittidech Vimolratana), YouTube star Mark Wiens and Gaggan Anand have announced that they’ll be collaborating on an experimental street food project. According to an Instagram post by Gaggan, starting Sep 30, the pair will take over street food locations with a selection of Indian-inspired burgers—offering 500 portions at B300 a pop—with all profits going to the stall owners. Watch out on Gaggan’s Insta (@gaggan_anand) for details of exact locations. In related news, Wiens has begun taking Lineman orders a day in advance for his upcoming restaurant, Phed Mark.
9/24/19 3:45 PM
food & drink | taste test
Who makes the best... guacamole? A green treat for our green issue. The ultimate Mexican sidekick: guacamole (sorry, tequila). Perfect guac can take your meal from “meh” to muy bueno. We put eight offerings from popular local restaurants to the test, using plain tortilla chips for all. By BK Staff
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 27, 2019
La Monita Taqueria
The place: One of Bangkok’s goBK Pick! to Mexican joints; known for its vivid decor and flavorful food. The taste: Fresh and creamy. It starts strong, then mysteriously falls off the flavor cliff due to a lack of seasoning. But it kept us going back for second dips. Verdict: Dip you dip we dip. The price: B165 888/25-26 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-651-5605. Open Mon-Fri 11am-10pm; Sat-Sun 10am-10pm
Mexicano
So
The place: Formerly Senor Pico; Close! one of Bangkok’s originals. The taste: Fresh and chunky; the look, smell, texture and consistency were all no.1. If only there were more kick and a little salt, this would’ve won, chips down. Verdict: Guac tease. The price: B175 1/F, Rembrandt Hotel Bangkok, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18. Opendaily 6pm-midnight, plus Sat-Sun 12-3pm
Sunrise Tacos
The place: The food at this oldRunner school Mexican haunt is not much Up! to write home about, but the burritos are huge and margarita pitchers are B485. The taste: Creamy and well blended with a balanced taste (though the tomatoes were a little sweet for some). Verdict: We eat our words. The price: B95 114/19-20 Silom Soi 4, 02-632-8588. Open daily 11am-2am. Other branches: Terminal 21; Sukhumvit Soi 54; Sukhumvit Soi 33/1
The Hass Bistro
The place: An all-avocado cafe. The taste: This one arrived with separate DIY components to mix ourselves. No joke. We ended up adding too many chilis, making it hard to measure the flavor. Verdict: Can we get some service? The price: B195
19
Cali-Mex Bar & Grill
The place: A Hong Kong-based franchise with Mexican food done California-style. The taste: Basically like eating chunks of plain avocado, minced up, with just a touch of powdered chili. Verdict: Just avo. The price: B69 G/F, Holiday Inn Bangkok, Sukhumvit Soi 22, 020103-135. Open daily 10-2am. Other branches: Sukhumvit Soi 11; Holiday Inn Silom
Charley Browns Mexicana
The place: Tex-Mex favorites served amid vibrant decor. The taste: Is that fake lime? And… fish sauce, maybe? We ain’t got time for that! Verdict: No substitute. The price: B95 G/F, iCheck Inn Hotel, 19/9-10 Sukhumvit Soi 19. Open daily midday-11pm
Tacos & Salsa
The place: Bright and bold surrounds meet authentic, home-cooked food. The taste: This kinda looks like Japanese potato salad. And no wonder, since it’s basically a ton of tomatoes and onions with about five percent avocado thrown in as a token gesture. Verdict: Where’s the avo? The price: B160 21/3 Sukhumvit Soi 18, 02-663-6366. Open daily noon-midnight
El Diablo
The place: This colorful, tuckedYikes! away cantina offers home cooked food using the owner’s personal recipes. The taste: Vinegary and fishy with a slight wasabi-like smell. We’re not sure this was freshly made. It looks like baby food and pickles mixed up in a blender. Verdict: What the? The price: B100 330 Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-663-8646
1/6 Klang Alley, Sukhumvit Soi 49. Open daily 9am-9pm
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9/24/19 3:45 PM
food & drink | news
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 27, 2019
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HOT OFF THE PASS
19
Dusit brings a leafy cafe to Sala Daeng
OFF THE CURB Thonglor’s “street-food shelter” Saphan 55 is now in soft opening, so far featuring four food vendors selling pocket friendly grub, drinks, coffee, a Thai restaurant upstairs and—our favorite—an old-school grandpa shop touting nostalgic snacks and toys.
ON TROPIC
Dusit Thani Bangkok’s hotel days are on hiatus, but now the flagship hotel has opened Dusit Gourmet—a cozy tropicalcolonial-style cafe on Sala Daeng Road (patterned flooring, forest green tiled walls, padded armchairs, plenty of wood). Veggiefilled Korean rice bowls (broccoli, avocado, kimchi, chicken and mango; B270) and colorful acai bowls (B240) offer a healthy route, but we recommend indulging in the afternoon tea set (B390), with scones, homemade pastries and organic teas from northern Thailand’s Monsoon Tea Company. Come evening, craft beers, organic wines and Asian-inspired cocktails come into play.
LAO DOWN Great news for those too lazy to trek to Lao Dtom Lao’s hip but far-out former Old Town haunt—the restaurant has moved to new, central digs in Thonglor’s Seenspace. The Old Town space is permanently closed.
HOLY COW
FINAL CALL
TWO’S COMPANY
20 Bangkok is gearing up for jay fest with plant-based menus
21 Your last chance to book BK Restaurant Week
22 Ku Bar and the Sugar Ray crew have joined forces
Over the past fortnight, BK Restaurant Week has been doling out awesome dining deals at over 60 restaurants across Bangkok. If you haven’t taken advantage yet, all is not lost! You’ve got two more days to sink your teeth into multi-course feasts at special fixed prices of B750++ (B883) and B1,000++ (B1,177), with an extra course for any diner who books using a Citi credit card. Always wanted to try the nose-to-tail dishes at 100 Mahaseth, eager to indulge in chef Chet Atkin’s Japanese creations at Jua? Then act fast—BK Restaurant Week ends on Sep 29. Book now at www.bkrestaurantweek. com/bkrw
A joint venture between the teams behind Ku Bar and the rapidly expanding Sugar Ray empire (Q&A, Thaipioka, Sugar Ray, Sugarray Apartment), the two-story, speakeasy-like Alonetogether (29 Sukhumvit 31, 02-163-4778) keeps it classy with stiff cocktails, live jazz and cigars. The bar team uses local ingredients to give classics a subtle twist—the Frozen Screwdriver (B420), for instance, incorporates pomelo into the build while the Cold Fashioned (B420) features black cardamom. Jazz bands perform four nights a week on the ground floor, while the soon-to-open second-floor cigar lounge will double as a vinyl listening room.
Good news for vegans: Grand Hyatt Erawan (494 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-254-1234) is now serving meat-free dishes that utilise Beyond Meat—head to The Dining Room and Bar@494 to try the Beyond Som Tum Burger (Beyond Meat burger patty, dairy-free cheddar cheese, green papaya salad, lettuce and lime-garlic mayonnaise in a brioche bun; B450) and Beyond Curry Sausage (B290). Meanwhile, The Authors’ Lounge at Mandarin Oriental (48 Oriental Avenue, 02-6599000) is gearing up to launch the city’s first vegan afternoon tea (B1,766), available from Sep 28.
NEVERENDING STORY Breakfast Story has been curing hangovers in Phrom Phong since 2017. Now the American pancake powerhouse has moved in on Phloen Chit with a second branch located in Mahatun Plaza, open since Sep 21. Keep ‘em coming!
YOU SAID WHAT?
The news in online foodie posts
“Guess what? Little Hideout deserves to be here too, their patisseries are amazing!” FACEBOOK USER NAPASSAKARN PFEIFFER ON BK’S DESSERT CAFE ROUND-UP.
“This is easily on my list of favorite burgers in Bangkok. It’s very reasonably priced but honestly that has nothing to do with it for me - this is just good quality food.” JOE GUILMETTE ON
“Lovely place with great live jazz.” FACEBOOK USER KOSAPAN DISTILLERY ON ALONETOGETHER.
ON NUT’S EASY BURGER.
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9/20/19 6:51 PM
dining reviews
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AUTUMN AFTERNOON TEA AT THE OKURA PRESTIGE BANGKOK 1 October - 31 December 2019 | Daily 14:00 - 17:00 Prices start from Baht 1,290 with coffee or tea for 2 persons. Up & Above Bar is located on the 24th floor of The Okura Prestige Bangkok. For more information and reservations, please call 02 687 9000 or email upandabove@okurabangkok.com Prices are subject to 10% service charge and 7% government tax.
Olta HHHH 101/11 Suanphlu Rd., 094-656-2159. Open daily 6pm-midnight. BBB
It’s not every day you see a successful Phuket restaurateur expanding his empire to Bangkok. Then again, not every Phuket restaurateur is Jamie Wakeford. The fast-rising culinary figure behind Cherngtalay’s Bampot Kitchen & Bar— and former stagiaire at Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck and Gordon Ramsay’s Maze in the UK—is now bringing his modern British bent to Suan Phlu. Modern British, for those stuck on the term, is the metaphorical equivalent to “new American” or “contemporary Australian”—a catch-all that boils down to the chef using fresh, predominantly local produce and drawing heavily on foreign influences to reinterpret classic Western dishes. Here that means a decadent blue crab tart with shaved apple and dill (B400) and sautéed wild Thai mushrooms (B130) served in a space that straddles the line between upscale-casual date-night venue and let-your-hair-down, after-work haunt. On our last visit, the crowd featured young couples, mom-and-daughter duos and singles mingling at the centerpiece bar in the downstairs dining room, while the soundtrack flitted from A Tribe Called Quest to The Strokes. It’s cool, alright, and the ocean-blue banquettes offsetting marble tile floors and grayscale artwork do nothing to diminish the effect. The food, mercifully, complements this vibe.
Price guide Under B500 B500-1,000 B1,000-2,000 B2,000-3,000 BBBBB Over B3,000
Local ingredients form the backbone of seasonally-rotating sharing plates. Take, for instance, Thai camembert served with honey-like fig jam and thin, toasted rye bread (B200), or the BBQ trevally (B550)—a firm whitefish tailor-made for the open flame. Its flavor won’t blow you away, but the sous-vide egg yolk-speckled potato salad it’s served with provides some pop. Just don’t expect this to stay on the menu forever—the fish selection changes depending on what’s available. Braised beef cheek served atop Thai blue cheese polenta (B600), meanwhile, offers a heftier portion. Unfortunately, that polenta has a texture like crunchy peanut butter and an in-your-face saltiness that leaves you reaching for a glass of house water (only B30—and that includes bottomless refills). That slip-up aside, it’s hard to fault what’s coming out of the kitchen. Or the bar, for that matter. Boasting equally strong cocktail and culinary games, Olta is a rarity in these parts. Cocktails like the Cucumber Fizz (Old Tom gin, elderflower, cucumber and tonic, B350) and the Suan Phlu Mule (vodka, honey, ginger, apricot and bitters, B350) are dangerously easy-drinking. Altogether, Olta is the kind of place you might find yourself returning to time and again without even realizing it.
Ratings H Forget it HH Only if you’re in the neighborhood HHH A pleasant dining experience HHHH Not to be missed HHHHH Flawless
B BB BBB BBBB
BK pays for its meal and does not call ahead or sit with the chef.
Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.
Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Road, Bangkok 10330 T. 02 687 9000 F. 02 687 9001 E. info@okurabangkok.com okurabangkok.com facebook.com/theokuraprestigebangkok
Symbols Reservations recommended Parking Dress requirements Live music
H F E G
INTERN WITH US! (MARKETING, EDITORIAL, ART AND VIDEO DEPARTMENTS.) You must be at least 18-years-old You must send in a cover letter and resume. Specify which department you are applying for.
Open to Thai and foreign nationals Internships are full-time, unpaid and last 3 months.
Candidates should be fluent in both Thai and English. Send your resume and a cover letter to jobs@asia-city.co.th
DiningReview-BK#771-27SEP2019.indd 21
9/20/19 6:13 PM
drink | cocktail hour
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 27, 2019
Get Trashed
How to turn trash into treasure at home
Here’s why bars across Bangkok are incorporating wouldbe waste into their cocktails. By Reika Kobayashi Nidhiprabha
INFUSION Utilize the parts of fruit you’d usually throw out (apple cores, peels, etc) to transform a cheap bottle of gin into gold dust. Just put them in a jar of gin, shake it up and leave it in a cool, dark place for a month. Strain it for tasty shots or to make some fruity G&Ts.
Cocktails in Bangkok often trail global trends. With sustainability suddenly topping the agenda, a handful of Bangkok bars are now jumping on the zero waste bandwagon. We did some digging to find out how and why they’re creating concoctions from products most of us would throw in the trash.
DEHYDRATION Dehydrated fruits last for ages and make bar-quality garnishes. Just cut your unused fruit into quarter-inch slices, put them in the oven on the lowest setting for six-to-eight hours and voila.
“When I first came here three years ago... no one cared about waste.”
“Zero waste cocktails are a great marketing mechanism.”
“People are lazy. It’s easy to take the shortcut.”
Mark Lloyd, a chemist turned mixologist and F&B consultant who’s been bartending for over 20 years in the UK, New York and Europe, is spreading the zero waste ethos across Asia by designing menus for bars and boutique hotels in the region. At last year’s Wonderfruit festival, he ran a “zero waste” bar that utilized trash from other vendors. Although “zero waste” might be a misnomer—is it really zero waste when there’s still compostable waste produced and ice used in the build?—Lloyd’s pop-up bar gave us cocktails like “All About the Pineapple,” which made use of the entire fruit—juice, pulp, skin and all. Lloyd’s other pearls of wisdom offer solutions to common wastage issues. “Citrus is the biggest waste item at any bar,” he tells us. To avoid this, he suggests replacing the sourness from citrus with a shrub—a vinegar-based syrup made from fruit, like pineapple cores. For another ingenious homemade mixer, he suggests roasting watermelon skin and blending it into juice. “It results in a grassy flavor that works really well with gin,” he says. “You can also take the seeds, roast them and grind them into powder, which can be infused into vodka for a savory taste.”
Aaron Feder, an F&B consultant who until recently managed the bar at Phrom Phong’s new Ivy 47, hits the nail on the head here. How much of the “zero waste” approach is all show and no substance? As he acknowledges, we’re fighting against an unerring tide of waste from big businesses. “You save 10 kilos of trash in a bar and use bamboo straws, but there’s Foodpanda, where you send out 3,000 plastic boxes every day,” he says. Yet the approach, he notes, has deep roots in kitchen culture. “In any good French kitchen, there will be what’s called a ‘utilization shelf,’ where any byproduct that might be usable is placed,” Feder tells us. “Good restaurants have always turned waste into profit. It’s a modern name applied to a very old culinary technique. At Ivy 47, for example, the egg whites are used for drinks, while the egg yolks are sent to the kitchen on the floor below.” Zero waste, it seems, is great for business, and the environment happens to benefit from it, too.
Fabio Brugnolaro, formerly of SulBKK and Vogue Lounge, shared with us the influence that zero waste has had on his new opening, Copper Bar Bangkok. After recently competing in Thailand’s first ever zero waste cocktail competition, his eyes were opened to new opportunities. “After the competition, I was super happy because I discovered how to save money,” he tells us with unusual candor. But being green doesn’t just refer to the extra cash the globe-trotting Brugnolaro is pocketing. “As with food, everything tastes better fresh. For example, the crème de menthe you buy at stores can sometimes taste manufactured. But if you make it fresh, using the mint stems, the smell is stronger and better.”
Zero in on these wasteconscious Bangkok bars
Liberation
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He also notes that mint is something you can grow at home, “but people are lazy. It’s easy to take the shortcut. But for people who own their bar, it can save money and reduce trash. You can take sparkling wine that’s expired or lost its bubbles and mix it with vodka, mint sticks, leftover ginger cuts, orange and apple peels to make it into vermouth. The options are endless,” he says. Zero waste cocktails are fresher, they yield a little extra spending money and, hey, they’re good for the planet. Wins across the board.
COPPER BAR At his new experimental bar, craft cocktail guru Fabio Brugnolaro creates a plethora of elements—spirits, vermouths, syrups, garnishes, liquors, you name it—from just one ingredient, ensuring nothing goes to waste. Watch out for the new menu coming in October, which Fabio promises will be packed with complex zero waste creations. A sneak peek: “Undead #2” (a twist on a classic Corpse Reviver #2) will mix zero waste amber vermouth made from flat sparkling wine and tonic and the remainder of unused red and white wines, “fake absinthe”—a blend of herbs and spices that would usually be thrown out—and homemade orange Curacao.
FERMENTATION With just a few days, a jar and some water, you can turn pineapple tops, cores and skins into Mexican tepache—a mildly alcoholic fermented drink.
HOMEMADE VINEGAR Play reverse Jesus (or something like that) by turning your off wine into vinegar and reductions for drinks or sauces.
LIBERATION A collab with ties to familiar names like Rabbit Hole, Canvas, Backstage and Tropic City, this bar is ahead of the curve when it comes to creativity. The second section of their menu is dedicated entirely to byproducts from the first section. For example, Sao Rong Ngarn (B390) blends the shells of cacao beans and corn husks into vermouth.
9/20/19 6:41 PM
neighborhood | wat mangkon
BK MAGAZINE FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 27, 2019
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23 Bar
Jing Jing
Lhong Tou
Ba Hao
Organized Chaos Chinatown means bustling markets, grungechic shophouses and great food. With the Wat Mangkon MRT extension now open, all the action is more accessible than ever. By Jesse Day
Coffee & Breakfast Start off at Hong Huat (41 Charoenkrung Soi 12, 02-223-9672) for toast and tea, or 92-year-old Eiah-Sae (1103 Yaowarat Rd., 081-868-9891) for Thai coffee and kaya toast (B25 each). Urai Han Palo Songwat (Song Wat Rd., 02-221-4413) serves incredible Teochew-style goose that often sells out before noon. Lhong Tou Cafe (538 Yaowarat Rd., 085-824-6934) also has a delicious Chinese breakfast set (B129). For something sweeter, try the chocolate and matcha AMA Signature (B120) at AMA Cafe (191 Chakkrawat Rd., 02-221-0463).
Lunch & Dinner Rice and curry (B40) on the red stools at Jek Pui (19 25 Mangkon Rd., 02-222-5229) is a must. Hit up Kong Prasert (304-6 Charoenkrung Soi 27, 02-238-3587) for incredible moo krob (crispy roasted pork belly, B30) or seek out the perfect fish balls at Guay Tiew Luk Chin
Teens of Thailand
Krae (Yaowarat Rd., in front of the Lieng Seng Heng gold shop) or Yoo Fishball (433 Yaowarat Rd., 089782-7777). For dinner, find classic Thai-Chinese fare like braised goose (from B120) at Lao Tang (467/1 Yaowarat Rd., 02-221-6070) or visit Tang Jai Yoo (85-89 Soi Yaowapanich, Yaowarat Rd., 02-224-2167) or Yim Yim (89 Yaowaphanit Rd., 02224-2203) for next-level dim sum.
Dessert Stop by Jing Jing (154 Charoenkrung 14 Soi, 081-974-1929) for quality coconut ice cream (B50/scoop), or satisfy two vices at once with an alcohol-infused sorbet. Nearby, the folks at Ba Hao Tian Mi (8 Phadung Dao Rd., 097-995-4543) can feed your Chinese pudding addiction.
Drinks Relax with midday sangria (B150) at Spanish haunt El Chiringuito (221 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd., 086-340-4791). Come nightfall, channel your inner Wong Kar-wai
at Ba Hao (8 Soi Nana, 064-6351989) with excellent Chinese inspired cocktails (around B290). Hit up Wallflowers Upstairs (3739-41 Soi Nana, 096-727-6789) for the enchanting ambience; rub elbows with the in-crowd at Teens of Thailand (76 Soi Nana, 096-846-0506) and Tep Bar (6971 Soi Nana, 098-467-2944); and end the night belting out indie anthems after one Singha (B100) too many at 23 Bar and Gallery (92 Soi Nana, 080-264-4471.) Venture off Soi Nana to find laid-back vibes at Shanghai Terrace (479 481 Yaowarat Rd., 02-221-2121), breathtaking views at Sky View 360 (215 Yaowarat Rd., 02-2249977) and local craft beer at Let the Boy Die (542 Luang Rd., 099493-9909).
Transport MRT Wat Mangkon.
Accommodation
Chinatown on Charoenkrung Rd. are in the works, it’s still slim pickings in Chinatown, but Condo One Soho (2070-72 Khao Lam Rd.) is just a five-minute walk from MRT Hua Lamphong and features 48 units from B10,00014,0000/month. Architect and designer Florian Gypser rents out his stylish, 65 sq-meter studio on Airbnb (B31,500/month), while Ba Hao offers staycations on its two impeccably designed upper floors (B3,000/night).
Visit/Do Get cultural at Wai Traimit Temple (661 Charoenkrung Rd.), home to the world’s largest gold Buddha; revel in the beautiful decor at MRT Wat Mangkon; and then shop for random goods on Sampeng Lane. Weave through the backalleys with a Co Van Kessel (Charoenkrung Rd., beside River City) bike tour.
While projects like Station One
BK ASKS
What’s great about Chinatown?
Neighbourhood-BK#771-27SEP2019.indd 23
CHUTINAT THASANANUPHAN, OWNER OF JING JING ICE CREAM BAR AND CAFÉ “The unique mixture of Chinese and Thai culture, both old and new. Chinese immigrants can go back to their roots and find home comforts.”
NIKS ANUMAN, OWNER OF TEENS OF THAILAND “It’s raw. It’s real. It’s not a place to be pretentious.”
THANAPOLPOJ ROCHNATTAKUL, CO-FOUNDER/ARCHITECT OF BA HAO “It’s the past, the present, and the future all coming together and continuously evolving as one unique entity.”
9/23/19 11:27 AM