NO.833 I FRIDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2023
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IT'S FREE!
NO.833 I FRIDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2023
Git gud.
NO.833 I FRIDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2023
GAME ON:
A gamer’s guide to Bangkok Grinding in the Bangkok sandbox.
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WHO’S IN CHARGE? BK EDITORIAL Managing Director Dietrich Neu Managing Editor Tyler Roney Senior Lifestyle Writer Vinita Chumsri Senior Lifestyle Writer Sarisa Pokawattana Art Director Wirankan Saiyasombut GROVE: COCONUTS BRAND STUDIO Managing Editor Andra Nasrie Associate Thai Editor Pakvipa Rimdusit Branded Content Writer Moe Thet War
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bk in brief
nightlife
cover story
Thai hip-hop festival from Twopee Southside hits Phuket
new & noted
Aesop’s relocates to rooftop venue on Sukhumvit Soi 16
Art Director Tan Kar Liang Production Manager Komkrit Klinkaeo
Publisher, Printer, and Editor Tara Rattanaphas
13 new & noted
Phuket’s burnt butter toast from Phuketique now available in Thonglor
14 open door BK MAGAZINE IS A COCONUTS MEDIA PUBLICATION. Chairman Byron Perry General Manager Vim Shanmugam Head of Operations Clarissa Cortes coconuts.co Advertise with us advertising@coconuts.co
WHERE TO FIND US! COCONUTS BK LIMITED 111 Room 5A, 5th Floor We Space Building, Soi Thonglor 5 Khlong Tan Neua, Wattana Bangkok, 10110 Tel: 02-041-5755 Email: info@bkmagazine.com
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Git gud: Everything you wanted to know about gaming in Bangkok
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Senior Project Manager Sirinart Panyasricharoen Senior Account Manager Hafiz Rasid Senior Digital Account Manager Nuttajuk Kittichailuk
Head of Business Development Elizabeth Chua Senior Business Development Manager Piti Rungrojanaluck Business Development Manager Chalida Anuwattanawong Business Development Executives Joel Chua, Anna Dumont, and Liyana Juhari
New nightclub Fuchsia brings underground Parisian vibes to Silom
David Thompson opens Chop Chop Cook Shop in Chinatown
20 travel
Motosai to Mustang: A dangerous road to a plush Himalayan hotel
15 review
Baan Tepa is worth all the hype and more
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hit list
last word
Ikea Sukhumvit to open at Emsphere this December
Chef Black’s new book puts 120 types of Thai fish in a new light
NO.833 I FRIDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2023
upfront
UNDER THE GUN Bangkok is reeling from a mass shooting event at Siam Paragon that left two dead, more than a dozen injured, and the city reeling. The illegally obtained gun has Thailand wondering about guns, gun laws, and security in public spaces.
There are more than 7,000,000 registered guns in Thailand. The total number of privately owned guns is estimated to be more than 10,000,000 and as much as 18,000,000.
Illegal firearm possession carries a prison sentence of up to 10 years and a fine of up to B20,000.
In Thailand, administrative and import fees associated with owning a gun can be as much as B40,000.
Thailand has 15.1 firearms per 100 inhabitants, one of the highest rates in Southeast Asia.
“Guns Are Everywhere in Thailand. Could the Country’s Deadliest Mass Shooting Change That?” Time. 06/10/22
Geneva: Small Arms Survey, 2018
Buyers must be older than 20 years old to legally purchase a gun.
Thailand experienced 1,300 gun deaths in 2019, the latest year data is available; Vietnam, which has a 40% larger population had only 130.
Gun related crime is on the rise, with around 24,000 cases in 2018 to over 87,000 in 2022 “One Year After Nursery Massacre, Thailand Waiting for Gun Reform,” VOA. 10/10/23
“Deadly Thai mall shooting reignites gun control questions,” AFP. 04/10/32
YOU SAID WHAT? “I’m not sure if there’s more smash burger shops or weed shops in Bangkok. A combo weedsmash shop would be the ideal stop ,” — Facebook user Dave Zeus on the new Smizzle Burger opening.
“Sad news, though having been at the grindcore night a few months back I do have certain sympathy with the neighbours ,” —
Facebook user Tim Russell on the news that music venue would no longer be able to host events.
“We all hope it doesn’t involve the dishes he learned at the show ‘Gordon’s Great Escape’ ,” — Instagram user @arleilima.foto on the announcement Gordon Ramsay would be opening 14 restaurants in Thailand.
HOT OR NOT
Got Me Started
Cold Reception
The Youtube sensation turned actor, LGBTQ icon, and pop star Troye Sivan released a music video to his latest single “Got Me Started” showcasing Thai fashion labels. In addition to the bangkok backdrop, Sivan also linked up with local stylists to feature pieces from homegrown designers.
A purported restaurant owner live-streamed himself chasing Porntip Rojanasunan of the unelected Upper House out of an Iceland venue, presumably for betraying the results of Thailand’s recent election. The senator, who missed a recent meeting, was also seen lounging on ecologically protected moss in Iceland.
That Hourglass
Which Wallet
The fashionistas at Poem have introduced their fall/winter 2023 collection “Oriental Ethereal’ with a catwalk in Shanghai, the Thai label’s first solo show on foreign soil. The brand was established nearly two decades ago and has garnered loyal followers for its classic tailoring and innovative focus on an hour-glass figure.
It was one of Pheu Thai’s most recognizable campaign pledges: the digital wallet. The B10,000 to every Thai over age 18 is an attractive promise, but lately opinion has begun to turn on the scheme, questioning whether it will actually be a boon to the economy and whether it really needs an app. 5
BK in brief
Jay Fai
Jay Fai collabs with Shin Ramyun for a new instant noodle near you Jay Fai, the iconic Bangkok street food queen, is collaborating with South Korea’s beloved instant noodle brand, Shin Ramyun by Nongshim. The new flavor has yet to be released, but Shin Ramyun is one of South Korea’s bestselling instant noodle brands, with an iconic red packet that’s ubiquitous in supermarkets and a staple of the university days. Crafted by the company Nongshim, who are known for their flavourful, drool-worthy seasoning, some reports claim that it will be some sort of tom yum flavor—which is a bit off of Jay Fai’s normal fare—but there’s stir-fry mentioned in some early press photos. Stay up to date with Nongshim Thailand for updates. Since becoming Bangkok’s first street food stall to grab a Michelin star in 2018, Supinya “Jay Fai” Junsuta has become a prominent figure in the city’s culinary scene. Recognized by her apron, beanie, and ski goggles, Jay Fai has garnered numerous awards, including a spot on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list.
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Atarashii Gakko join Maho Rasop as more acts are announced for December festival A J-pop girl group known for their sailor outfits and elaborate dance choreographies will be making their Thailand debut at this year’s Maho Rasop Festival. Atarashii Gakko is just one of the second wave of artists announced for the two-day international music festival in early December. The four-member girl group are best known for donning their iconic sailor-style school uniforms, super catchy tunes, and elaborate dance performances. Their name literally translates as “New School Leaders” and they consist of four members, Mizyu, Rin, Suzuka, and Kanon. Their varied personalities and high-energy dance routines have garnered a large following online. In 2021, the band signed onto Asian-American label 88rising, joining a roster of globallyrecognized Asian artists such as Rich Brian, Joji, Niki, and Thailand’s very own Milli. Other second phase artists announced for the festival include Japanese-American singer Michael Kaneko, Taiwanese percussionist L8ching, and UK jazz musician Kamaal Williams.
Atarashii Gakko
Legendary music venue Jam has been banned from hosting live performances
Thai hip-hop festival from Twopee Southside hits Phuket in November
For over a decade Jam has been one of the city’s most beloved dive bars. Now, the local district office has prohibited the venue from hosting live performances, according to a Facebook post from the venue’s owners and the bar is currently looking for new owners.
Twopee Southside will be heading to Thailand’s biggest island to put on a local hip-hop event at Andamanda, Phuket’s largest water park, on November 18.
When Jam mysteriously canceled its entire weekend lineup of shows and did not announce any new events for nearly two weeks, rumors began swirling, and it was later announced the bar had been stopped from hosting live muse. In October, owner Martin Nilsson announced the bar was looking for a new owner, but the space continues to operate as a bar in the meantime. “We’ve been further in contact with the district office regarding the possibility to continue with events as before. There’s a path towards that, but will likely involve some work for whoever takes over, which we are more than happy to share more details to potential buyers,” a Facebook post from Jam read on Oct 6.
The rapper and now festival organizer Pitawat “Twopee” Pruksakit will be putting on his first big event with the Southside members gathering to headline this Thai hip-hop event. Fans of Thai hip-hop can also look forward to the likes of recent hits at Rolling Loud Thaitanium, F Hero, Tua Jeed, Young Gu, Diamond, Fiixd, Gunner Network, and a whole host of new and upand-coming talent alongside DJs like DJAY Buddha, Ono, and TOB. The party goes from 3pm to midnight at Andamanda Water Park, and details are still being announced for what is sure to be one of the biggest hip-hop events of the year. TwoPee became a national sensation as a coach on The Rapper TV series, and he is bringing hiphop back to where his passion for rhymes began more than a decade ago in Phuket. ●
food&drink nightlife
NO.833 I FRIDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2023
Bar Na
Sundry Bar
Burmese beers join the Bangkok microbrew boom These days, Bangkok is bursting with microbreweries full of locally made craft beers to gulp down, and now the city now has another one: Burbrit. Opening earlier this month, the venue’s name is a portmanteau of “Burmese” and “British,” which are the nationalities of the four founders. As you might guess it specializes in craft beers from neighboring Myanmar. You’ll find it in the same building as the Holiday Inn at the edge of Sukhumvit 22, next to the bright and large Kush House dispensary. The neighborhood’s new booze den offers six craft beers on tap from Myanmar with more on the way, according to the staff. There are already four Burbrit locations in the brand’s native Myanmar, three in Yangon and one in Naypyidaw, but this is its first expansion into another country.
Sundry Bar’s multi-terrace concept in Silom is inspired by sunlight In a city that never sleeps, Sundry makes you feel like the sun’s always out. Nestled in a four-story orange building, Sundry’s
Fuschia
multi-terrace space draws inspiration from the colors of sunrise and sunset. Each floor of Sundry serves a different purpose. The first floor, aptly named the Sunrise Room, hosts rotating art exhibitions, combining culture with cocktails. Ascend to the second floor, the Sunkiss Room, which will soon house a Thai tapas restaurant. The third floor is the Studio Bar, which represents the twilight period. Here, you can enjoy drinks, watch bartenders craft cocktails, and listen to hi-fi DJ tunes. For those seeking a more laid-back atmosphere, the fourth floor, known as the Soleil Lounge, is a room that is a work of art in itself.
Newly opened Bar Na combines drinking and philanthropy Want additional motivation for downing cocktails? This new kid on the block makes guilt-free drinks. Bar Na by Na Project has launched their soft opening in Phra Nakhon, with the guiding principle “Stirring Change” that transcends the traditional role of a bar. They’re forging a brighter future for communities by connecting the dots between drinks and generosity. The primary focus here is on social and skill development for underserved and at-risk
youths, urban refugees, and migrant workers who have been lacking one crucial thing: an opportunity. Bar Na provides a platform to learn valuable skills, offering them a path to personal growth and development by equipping them with comprehensive training in the hospitality industry.
New nightclub Fuchsia brings underground Parisian vibes to Silom Silom’s Decho road is now home to a new retro-futuristic nightclub, Fuchsia. The venue, which focuses on deep house and techno tunes, comes from some of the city’s best F&B minds, Watermelon Group, which count Rabbit Hole, Crimson Room, Bar Marco, and Canvas under their umbrella. The interior feels like stepping into a retro-futuristic paradise that pays homage to old Parisian underground aesthetics with opulent iron fixtures, stained glass windows, neon-lit saloons, plush velvet booths, and inviting seats crammed pretty much everywhere you look. It’s not all pretty fixtures for the pictures, either. The club is bringing some serious music firepower for its launch. ●
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cover story
GAME ON: A gamer’s guide to Bangkok Grinding in the Bangkok sandbox.
Imagine you’re sperm. Just one. One little spermatozoon. And you have the ambition, drive, and wherewithal to want to become a human being. This is the plot of Asuji: The Legend of You, a Thailand-made 2D platformerstyle game from the Bangkok-based indie developers at Somnolent Team. “In January, I gathered my friends and we hired a junior, and that’s how it started,” says Niphon Prasopphol who began making games when he was 17, with the hope of making the type of games his friends like to play. “I think people come to develop games more and more in the community. People have started sharing more in the past few years. “ Not all their games are sperm-based. You can also try their Encoded War, a low graphics morse code-based game, or their upcoming blackand-white sound-based Trust Your Ears, a first-person shooter. “There are many popular indies like Timelie, that’s a leading game that introduced a lot of people in Thailand to developing,” Niphon Prasopphol says. “Right now there are a lot of universities that are doing game development classes. Before, it was only two. Now I see more and more.” Somnolent Team is just one of the many indie game developers trying to get a leg up in what has become a more than B50 billion industry in Southeast Asia, and Thailand is right at the center. Kingdoms Reborn from Earthshine, a city builder-type game, is Thailand’s indie game developer success story, with nearly half a million users and worldwide acclaim. Ever since the first console (Atari 2600) dropped in Bangkok in 1977, this town has loved to game—and game hard. 8 8
NO.833 I FRIDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2023
E-sport mania
“So, have you ever even played this game before?” Bangkok native Siraporn asked a BK Magazine reporter at the first ever UFC 4 competition at Bamboo E-sports Center in Ekkamai. “No.” “Then I’m really sorry about this.”
Nineteen seconds later poor Khabib Abdulmanapovich is rolling around on the ground suffering very serious digital injuries to the laughs and groans of spectators. For a long time, E-sports have been associated with spaces like the AIS E-sports Studio in Samyam Mitrtown, where the PC Master Race competes for followers, live streams, and just to be the best. Things are a little different at Bamboo. Bamboo E-Sports only opened their doors in April of this year, but they’ve already received such a positive response that they opened their second location in Sathorn this month. “After just six months to open another branch, we are very happy. We need to expand and develop our business,” Benjamin Aime tells BK Magazine. “We get a lot of expats and locals here, a lot of Asian expats. I’d say it’s 50/50 foreigner Thai. The community seems to like it.”
popular weekend FIFA tournaments. More than 40 participants can show up to this well-designed, comfy Ekkamai space for their FIFA tourneys. Button mashers need not apply. In October, one of the country’s biggest gaming events, Thailand Game Show 2023, landed at the Queen Sirikit Convention Center, bringing with it the latest in games, gear, and cosplay for the city’s gamers. The TGS 2023’s Zone Zean Game, which has previously taken on retro games like Mario Maker 2, pits hopefuls against one of the biggest names in Thailand gaming, Book Talon—which is a gamer handle if we’ve ever heard one. Book Talon is a Tekken 7 master, winner of the SEA Game 2019 and Evo Japan 2020 Champion and a local legend. More than that, Apex Legends, the worldwide free-to-play shooter, hosted a walk-in competition in which noobs take on pro players for a chance at free merch, and at the AIMLAB Challenge from Razor where the top scorer took home B20,000. Today there are dozens of E-sports stops around the city, all boasting serious crowds and even more serious gamers—all decked out in ergonomic chairs. But, if you like to game buzzed, there’s space for that too.
This space comes from three avid French gamers—Romain Noel, Ilyes Aoudia, and Benjamin Aime—where noobs and leet can play in comfort. Here you’ll find some of the most fun and accessible gaming competitions in town, including their wildly
Casual drinking—or gaming
In Phra Khanong, Todd Ruiz has the hottest barcade in town at Arcadia Barcade. The arcade machines are unique. They ought to be. He built them himself. No, he didn’t get a kit. He built them with power tools and own-coding stickto-itiveness—and they’re damned impressive. This is a far cry from the arcades and internet cafes that used to pepper the city. Here you can slam kratom and craft beer and get into an argument while playing one of the 1,236 games offered on these machines. Arcadia’s bringing Blade Runner geek chic to Phra Khanong, and every night you’ll find agro fatalities and quick draws on the self-installed light guns. It’s a bright idea done well—and not alone. For three years, the party crowd have been hitting up projector-based combat and co-op along with classic consoles at the 100-Bit Barcade in Charoenkrung.
More is on the way. In fact, it’s coming to you. November will see the start of the city’s first gamer truck, complete with internal gaming and a huge screen on the outside for spectators. “Initially, we intended to only use it as a gaming truck for children’s parties,” says owner David Oxland who started the project with his wife Angela and partner Virachai Boontaveekit. “But are also thinking of locations such as bars, football stadiums, et cetera. We are due to be at the Ploenchit Fair on November 25th running gaming competitions, so we hope to do this in other prominent locations too in the future.” Not all of today’s gamers are sitting in their house reading up on how to best beat Malenia in Elden Ring (you run at her when she does her flower nuke thing). Bangkokians are out there creating, competing, drinking, and making gaming cool again. 99
cover story
Bamboo E-sport Center
Gamer Guide E-sports Example:
Bamboo E-sport Center (Ekkamai) The space: The ultimate Bangkok stop for the console addict, this chic, neon spot serves snacks and booze to serious gamers who are there to have fun. Competitions take place side by side on comfy sofas or beanbag chairs if that’s your thing. Be a good sport. The gear: Post up at the state of the art VR facilities or take your pick from the PS5s lining the wall or the Nintendo Switch area. The games are whatever you want. Multiplayers expect the likes of Apex Legends, Call of Duty: Warzone, FIFA 23, Fall Guys, PUBG, Genshin Impact, Rocket League, Fortnite, Mortal Kombat 11, and Among Us. But, back in April they said they’ll download whatever game you request. So take a shot. The price: B200 for an hour on all consoles; B300 for two hours; B400 for 7pm-2am; B500 for a full-day pass; competition entry prices to be announced. 22 Ekkamai, Khlong Tan Nuea., 065-039-3924, Open daily 2pm-2am
Bamboo E-sport Center
AIS Esports Center The space: A large modern sleek Esports competition center in the heart of Bangkok with advanced luminous light, color and sound, where the gaming experience is second to none. Giving off a futuristic ambiance. There are multiple spaces, a stage and arena zone, a gaming zone, 2 studios and a caster and production zone. The gear: Take a seat at one of their wizard gaming chairs with high performance core i9 computers, private studio with 10 sets of computers and gaming gear offering you the set up to conquer virtual worlds. There is also a high-end battle arena for competitive gamers to prove your skills. The price: For the gaming zone: B50 for an hour or B40 for AIS eSports Studio Members. B500 for an hour in the studio, B5000 for 1 day (12 hours) 2/F Samyam Mitrtown, 944 Rama IV Rd, Pathum Wan., 062-245-1919, Open daily 24 hours
Thailand E-Sport Arena The space: Step into the future of competitive gaming at our grand eSports arena, spanning over 1,000 square meters. It’s not just an area; it’s a digital sport battlefield where your passion for gaming can pave the way to becoming a Thai eSports athlete, taking on regional and global tournaments. The gear: It can accommodate up to 700 people, complete with state of the art lighting, sound, stage, large LED screen and internet systems, sets the stage for intense competitions. Suitable for all types of competitive games.
AIS Esports Center
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5/F, The Street Ratchada Shopping Center.
Casual Gaming
NO.833 I FRIDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2023
Arcadia The space: Follow the neon dragon inside for games or climb your way up to the rooftop for movies, DJs, and events. It’s a sci-fi noir dive bar for old school gamers, lovers of craft beer, and the 420-friendly. If you’re off the sauce, try their kratom from OG kratom. Keep checking in for competitive gaming, and events in the rooms and on the rooftop. The gear: Three handmade arcade machines, two classic stand-up games and one tabletop arcade machine. Don’t forget their Switch parties. 24, Soi Sukhmvit Plus, Phra Khanong., Open Tues-Sun 10am-12am
100-Bit Barcade The space: Thailand’s first barcade and retro gaming console shop. Look for the pixelated artwork on the outside wall, and you’re there. It’s an 80’s-90’s vibe. The drinks are named after classic games; there’s the Tonic Sonic, Nintendo Tango, and X-Buster, the Mario Sour is a fun one with a mix of strawberry, lime, and whiskey. All cocktails and Suntree beer is B200, and Leo beers are B100. The gear: Retro gaming consoles from Sega to Nintendo 64 with a few stand up arcade machines. There’s also a projector where you can take the battle to the big screen. Talat Noi, Samphanthawong., 099-614-9980. Open TuesSun 6pm-12am
Bangkok Gaming Truck (coming in November)
The space: As of printing time, this rolling gamer den is not yet on the road, but expect to see this truck out and about at big events, and inside you’ll get seven screens along with aircon and wifi. They also plan to have an onsite games coordinator to make sure everything runs smoothly. The gear: PS5s, a PS4, Nintendo Switches, an Oculus, and an Xbox Series X. The owner also tells BK they might cooperate with certain developers for marketing new games.
Zero Latency
VR or Altered Reality Total VR Arcade
The space: Welcome to the first VR arcade in Bangkok. This venue offers you a cutting edge gaming experience where there are no wires or cables to tether you. Choose from a diverse range of adventures, from battling hordes of zombies in post-apocalyptic landscapes to enjoying family-friendly escapades. The gear: With their high-end VR headsets and precision-designed controllers to complete the immersive gaming experience. With more that 60 games to choose like VR art, top games, multiplayer, horror, kids, beginners, escape rooms, and more. 3/F, Gateway Ekamai., 095-948-8968. Open daily 10am-10pm
Gamesmith The space: Gamesmiths expansive venue houses a laser tage arena, cutting-edge virtual reality adventures, a variety of console gaming platforms and classic and modern arcade games. Catered to solo players, teams, and families alike. Get ready to level up your gaming experience. The gear: Laser tag, VR, PS4, Xbox One, Wwitch, arcade games, board games, golf simulator, racing simulator, flight simulator, just dance (Xbox Kinect). Ratchaphruek rd, Bang Ramat., 083-074-7760. Open Tues-Fri 2pm-12am, Sat-Sun 2pm-12am
Zero Latency The space: Zero Latency is one of the world’s greatest free roam virtual reality experiences where there are no wires or cables to tether you. Choose from a diverse range of adventures, from battling hordes of zombies in post apocalyptic landscapes to enjoying family-friendly escapades, competing in thrilling VR eSports, or diving into an exclusive Far Cry experience. With their high-end VR headsets and precisiondesigned controllers to complete the immersive gaming experience. The gear: VR games (Far Cry VR, Outbreak, Undead Arena, Singularity, Sol Raiders, Engineerium)
Arcadia
4/F, The Emquartier, B The Glass Quartier., 065-526-2420. Open Mon-Fri 11am to 8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm
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food & drink new & noted
Phuketique
Watanabe
Phuket’s burnt butter toast from Phuketique now available in Thonglor Travelers with a sweet tooth will know the old Phuketique in Phuket Old Town, but now, rather than a plane and a taxi scam from the Phuket airport, you can have their decadent burnt butter toast right here in Thonglor. Known for their kitsch shop house in Phuket, now they’re in a ground floor stall at the Saphan 55 spot at the end of Thonglor. It’s a simple menu at a simple venue—made simpler by the fact that Saphan 55 hasn’t really recovered yet. With the Saphan 55 Cafe (where you also order your coffee), this is the main shop you’ll spot as you walk in for your saccharine fix of toast and ice cream.The simplest dish here is, of course, the burnt butter toast topped with a dollop of Hokkaido milk ice cream (B200), but you can also choose earl grey ice cream, honeycomb toffee ice cream, Thai tea ice cream, and more. 12
Smizzle
Premium truffle soba omakase shop opens in Thonglor
Smizzle’s smash burgers are now available at Central Embassy
This restaurant has a reputation of being difficult to book and claims to have the best soba in Japan—a lot of visitors don’t tend to argue. Watanabe is open at Nihonmura Mall for the Thonglor crowd. Chef Nakagawa Kiyotaka, combines soba with premium ingredients, including truffle, and the soba flour is imported from Japan, made in-house at their restaurant in Osaka. Not only did they bring their soba, but they’ve also carted over their bowls, chopsticks, cutlery, and other materials.The menu is divided into three courses: standard (B3,500), gold (B4,500), and diamond (B5,500), including delicacies such as the toryufu to hotate no aburi, a grilled scallop topped with shoyu, truffle oil, and truffle sprinkles. The toryufu wagyu sukiyaki, features wagyu dipped in a 72-hour fermented soup and then a bowl of truffle-infused egg yolk.
Bangkok takes its smash burgers seriously, and Smizzle Burger has been in that vanguard at Bambini Villa since 2021. Now they’re expanding to a space at the plush Central Embassy. If you know Central Embassy, you’ll know that top floor full of art books, classy eats, and the uber upscale Embassy Diplomat Screens. Now, you’ll find a small shop housing Khlong Toei’s favoirte smash burger. Smizzle popped on to the scene using locally sourced beef—300-day grain-fed, hormone-free, never-frozen Charolais. They have long been a favorite in Grab from Onnut to Sukhumvit and the new store will be a godsend for the Ploenchit crew. Opening at Central Embassy earlier, the new space is quite similar in style to the Bambini Villa space, but fits in the more sleek style of the hi-so mall.
NO.833 I FRIDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2023
Aesop
Aesop’s relocates to rooftop venue on Sukhumvit Soi 16
Aglio
Aesop’s, the high-energy Greek dining spot—known for its plate smashing party atmosphere—has migrated from its original Saladaeng district spot to Column Bangkok Hotel. The new location promises a view over Benjakitti park on the 25th floor rooftop, with interior design taking a cue from Athens. Pop around to check out the high ceilings, marble accents, Greek-style columns, and statues throughout. The space stays true to John Gamvros’ Greek style and still encourages a dynamic dining experience. Already known for its parties, Aesop’s ups the ante with live performances Fri-Sat from 9pm onwards with spectacles that include acrobatics and fire shows. The staff are dressed on theme, clad in ancient Greek-like digs.
Gordon Ramsay to open 14 restaurants in Thailand
Newly opened Aglio Store serves up pizza and wine on Sukhumvit Soi 39
Gordon Ramsay’s restaurant group has announced plans to open 14 venues in Thailand over the coming years in a partnership with Tanachira Group—a Thailand-based lifestyle and retail brand. Two of them will launch in December at the soon-to-be-completed Emsphere mega-mall in Phrom Phong. The remaining 12 venues are confirmed to also be in Thailand but the dates of those openings, and what kind of restaurants they will be, are yet to be made public. The two venues launching at Emsphere in December are Bread Street Kitchen & Bar and Street Pizza, part of the group’s casual dining line-up. Bread Street Kitchen & Bar focuses largely on classic British dishes like beef Wellington, fish and chips, and specific Gordon-branded specials like macaroni cheese and sticky toffee pudding.
The Aglio Store, originally started in 2021 as a renowned sauce brand, launched its restaurant in mid-September within the Degree Square Project. The eatery has a Nordic-inspired interior, designed with minimalist warm white hues and light brown wood accents. The glass house is high and transparent, illuminated during the day with natural light. The shop layout combines group tables and sharing tables, giving off chic cafeteria vibes. For mains, they focus on Neapolitan-style pizza, known for its softer, fluffier dough compared to its Roman-style cousin. Yet, what sets the store apart are its unconventional toppings such as the mentaiko ikura (B450), which is a fusion of Japanese flavors consisting of salt-cured roe of Alaskan pollock, cream, butter, and parmesan. The result? One word: umami. ● 13
food & drink open door
DAVID THOMPSON OPENS CHOP CHOP COOK SHOP IN THE HEART OF CHINATOWN G/F, 328 Chakkrawat, Samphanthawong, 097-008-0519. Open Mon-Fri 3pm-9:30pm; Sat-Sun 12pm-9:30pm
Vinita Chumsri
The buzz: David Thompson’s much-anticipated opening of Chop Chop Cook Shop has generated significant buzz among food enthusiasts here. It’s the latest Bangkok restaurant to take a stab at the age-old, Thailand-specific “cookshop” cuisine that thrived from the ’20s to ’70s but is survived by only a handful of restaurants today. The vibe: You’ll find Chop Chop on the ground floor of a five-story art deco building called Goldsmith just off Yaowarat road. The building was originally built by a goldsmith as a place to show off his wares, and the restaurant pays homage to these golden years. Thompson and Apirak Leenharattanarak from Bensley Design Studio created an atmosphere reminiscent of a mid-twentieth-century gold shop. The terrazzo floors and pastel booths also add a dash of American diner and hamburger joint feel. The food: Classic cookshop eateries were often a blend of Teochew, Chinese, Thai, and western food traditions. They were known for their honest, comforting, and well-prepared dishes that aimed to please with simplicity and affordability. A good way to start a meal here is with a pair of twin starters, “Devil on Horseback” (B160) and “Angel on Horseback” (B280), both British classics. Don’t let the sinister name throw you, the “Devil” features prunes soaked in armagnac and stuffed with a blend of chicken liver and almonds, all wrapped
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in bacon. The result is an interplay of smoky and salty notes against the caramelized prunes. On the good side of your shoulder, the “Angel” showcases oysters cooked with tarragon butter and prosciutto to create comforting and rich flavors. The crab cocktail with marie rose sauce (B480) is fresh and pleasantly acidic, with a pared-down addition of chopped scallions and iceberg lettuce to add extra crunch. The real star of the show is the buttered prawns (B550), which come sitting in a pool of fragrant butter, soy and szechuan peppers that balance out the sweetness of the shellfish nicely. For a heartier fare, try the debal curried sausages (B450), generously smothered in a rich gravy sauce with chili and onions. One of the more inventive veggie dishes on the menu is the “Chop Chop Mash” (B190), which is prepared using a mortar and pestle to create a chewy and springy texture. Then, the cooks smear it across a hot wok until smoky goodness permeates its center. The second level of the building is where you’ll find the Goldsmith Bar, designed by the team at Jim Thompson with decorative dragon motifs combined with traditional decorations and Chinoiserie wall art. Why we’d come back: The folks at Chop Chop also leaked some plans for a third-floor finedining restaurant in the Goldsmith building— to open next year—so there’s plenty on the horizon. Be there. ●
food & drink review
NO.833 I FRIDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2023
BAAN TEPA ★★★★★
2369, Ramkhamhaeng Rd., 098-696-9074. Open Wed-Sun 5pm-late.
Over the past three years, few restaurants in Bangkok have grown and evolved to the same degree as Baan Tepa. What started as a humble 12-seat chef’s table in a previously abandoned ancestral house is now a sprawling, sleek urban farm, cafe, and fine-dining restaurant with a 40-person cooking team. Chef Chudaree “Tam” Debhakam’s almost zealous approach to zero waste and local produce (much of it sourced from the backyard urban garden, more still from farms around Thailand), combined with a menu that is both unique and familiar, put her restaurant in a category of one. You expect Baan Tepa to be good, but what you get is great. The setting matches the theme just as much as the food. The old family house has been reborn with sleek polished woods, soft lighting and splashes of green accents to hint at the urban farm philosophy. Vintage knick-knacks rub shoulders with bold abstract paintings as a mix of old and new pop tunes fill the air. It’s a rejuvenated, cozy space that isn’t afraid to blend old and new worlds. Neither is the menu. The core objective of Tam’s food, whether you order the introductory six-course (B4,500) offering or the full nine-course experience (B5,500), is to give diners a taste of Thailand top to bottom—and let the flavors do the heavy lifting. Tangy noom chili relish topped with tiny bits of pork cracking and fermented mushrooms immediately bring your palate to Northern Thailand. The thick Senna
Siamea curry with delicately fried pomfret fish instantly evokes Isaan. While most of the current menu appears to be a seasonal rotation, some guest favorites, like the “Crab, Crab, Crab” remain. The three-part dish sees Japanese-style egg custard mixed with crab roe paired alongside a glazed and delicate soft shell crab and served with a generous spoon of punchy and thick Southern curry. It incorporates basically every texture and flavor balance you would want on a plate of food: crunchy, soft, spicy, rich and potent. The drink pairing, a longan blossom honey wine from Chiang Mai-based Day Drinkers collective, cuts through some of the crab entree’s richness so well that we’re not sure it’s right to eat the dish without it. For that matter, all of the drink pairings (4 glasses/B2,900, 6 glasses/B3,900)— which include the likes of mead, cocktails, and orange wine—felt like true purpose-chosen companions to their dishes rather than flexes on the expensive European varietals. Even when the menu falters, the harshest criticism we can levy is that the food is good but not great, like the black squid ink dong dong noodles that come off uniform and bland in both flavor and texture compared to the menu’s other offerings. These criticisms are minor and few in number—really the victims of a menu so outstanding that anything without wow factor stands out more than it should. The restaurant is firing on all cylinders right now, and you will be hard pressed to find a better fine dining experience in Bangkok. ● 15
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travel feature
MOTOSAI TO MUSTANG: A DANGEROUS ROAD TO THE HIMALAYAN HOTEL EVERYONE’S TALKING ABOUT Tyler Roney
Direct flights to Nepal for Bangkokians are back. You can be in Kathmandu in 3.5 hours with Thai Smile Airways. From there it’s rhinos in Chitwan, Everest if you’ve got the dosh, or you can just walk around and make the “Mo’ momos, Mo’ problems” joke as much as you want. But, there is another reason to be in Nepal these days: Shinta Mani Mustang. Star-chitect and designer Bill Bensley— known for his eccentric, infectious personality as much for his world class design—is something of a local celebrity in his adopted Bangkok home. Even his studio at Sukhumvit Soi 61 is something of a landmark.
Getting to Jomsom, home to Shinta Mani Mustang, however, isn’t so easy. It’s two flights, a helicopter, or an 18-hour bus ride. There is, however, a more fun—and much, much more insane—way to get there: by motorcycle. 20
My wife and I tore out of Kathmandu on Royal Enfield 350 Classics with combined decades of motorcycle riding experience on Asia roads. Sometimes, though, the Himalayas don’t really “do” roads. If you have a Thailand motorcycle license like us—which includes a practical test that’s so easy it could be passed by three dogs in a trench coat—consider that this is an off-road trip that includes extreme and dangerous terrain. An experienced driver may walk away with a few bumps and bruises, but an inexperienced driver may not walk away at all. The first obstacle is statistically the deadliest part of the journey: the Prithvi Highway. It is a 200-kilometer pot hole between Nepal’s biggest cities currently undergoing construction throughout. As soon as we leave the mania of Kathmandu with a seasoned guide, we are thrust into hairpin bends packed with trucks, unfinished diversions with foot-high rocks, and tourist buses belching black diesel in our faces seemingly on purpose.
Even for those accustomed to roads in Bangkok, Beijing, and elsewhere in hectic Asian cities, Nepal’s Prithvi Highway is a rough, wild ride. “Highway” this ain’t. But along the way we descend more than a kilometer from the capital through lush but dusty riverine forests to the small hilltop settlement of Bandipur. Here, after climbing yet more hairpin bends, we would take our first night’s break at the friendly and photogenic Sunshine Hotel perched above the gently sloping, foggy foothills. Bandipur from Hotel Sunshine
Last month, Bill Bensley opened up Shinta Mani Mustang, taking his Southeast Asia brand and bright bohemian style to Nepal. Now, every travel journalist, TikTok star, and influencer is trying to find their way to Mustang to show off Nepal’s hottest hotel opening.
Day 1: From Kathmandu
NO.833 I FRIDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2023
Streets of Lalitpur in Kathmandu
Streets of Lalitpur in Kathmandu
Day 3: Beni-Jomsom Highway The goal for the next day was to make it to a quiet Himalayan town called Kalopani before making the push to Jomsom, Shinta Mani Mustang’s new home. This day would be hard. The ride to the hot springs town of Tatopani is a dream of misty hills and waterfalls spritzing riders with spray over flat black top roads—every rider’s dream. Then you hit the Beni-Jomsom “Highway.” Ten years ago, this stretch of road didn’t even exist. The only way to get to Jomsom was to fly or to trek for nearly a week.
View from the lodge at Tiger Mountain Lodge in Pokhara
Day 2: Tiger Mountain Lodge Waking at dawn, we veer off the Prithvi Highway and toward Pokhara, Nepal’s second most populous city. It is here that the Himalayas of the Annapurna range first hove into view—barely. The Himalayas, the shrewdest among you may have sussed, are quite big. To the dismay of many tourists, however, clouds around the glacier-capped giants make them difficult to spot. For a real chance at seeing the Annapurna range, we head toward Pokhara’s best possible venue for Himalaya spotting: Tiger Mountain Lodge. Tiger Mountain Lodge has been treating Pokhara travelers to views of the Himalayas for more than a quarter of a century. It’s also your last chance at real comfort before hitting the treacherous Beni-Jomsom highway. The food is pleasantly authentic—think delectable thali sets with a selection of chutney and curries—but a favorite, especially for people who’ve been shaking their bones on the road, is the pool. It’s an
oasis of calm in the right weather, with chairs facing the white Himalayas. At night, the many lights of Pokhara shine beneath the empty, quiet skies, as the hills dive in and out of the illuminated city. The peaceful, green space of Tiger Mountain Lodge comes with well-appointed rooms, and, weather permitting, a fulsome view of the snow-capped Himalayas. This is a space that takes its responsibility to the environment seriously. Pokhara below changes, grows, and puts a temple or tower on every hillock; Tiger Mountain Lodge Pokhara remains a dark, quiet corner for serious travelers looking for a little solace. The favorite thing to do here is to wake early and take breakfast in the lodge for a view of those jagged, unforgiving monsters in the sky. The doors and windows open to postcard-worthy vistas just for you.
Even today, “road” is a bit of a haughty term for the black mud, scree, newly fallen boulders, and 45 degree rock-strewn climbs that, on an Enfield, seem to defy physics. There are hundred-meterlong stretches of good asphalt to remind you what roads feel like before you’re thrown back into shaking your hind quarters into disrepair—the Mustang massage, we call it. In monsoon season, this pass can be closed altogether, and earth movers struggle day and night to keep the eroding mountains from the paved and unpaved sections. To your right is a sheer drop hundreds of meters and the angry Kali Gandaki river raging gray and white below. To your left, rocks and boulders, some as big as cars knocking out the entire road, fall from the sky. T h o u g h t re a ch e ro u s a n d n o t t o b e underestimated, the pass can be traversed by any competent off-roader. It’s not some sort of impassable Herculean feat or a death-defying drive. As long as it doesn’t rain. It rained. The bad luck weather hit at the worst time. Roads of dry rock became running creeks of gravel as we ascended at a snail’s pace to climb after climb after climb. Exhaustion after more than ten hours of driving took its toll. Bikes were dropped. Tantrums were thrown. Slowly the sun began to set as we scrambled up the final hills. After a whole day of banging off of rocks, one bike’s foot brake broke off. The other started leaking oil into the air filter. The decision was made to drive one bike to Kalopani just a few kilometers away before sunset. One driver was left stranded with the remaining bike in the pitch black of night, watching a slow motion landslide until a jeep could be sent for help. It took just over three hours. 21
travel feature Shinta Mani Mustang exterior at night
Avocado toast at Shinta Mani Mustang with a view of the Annapurna range
Day 4: To Shinta Mani Mustang We wake with Kalopani’s green hills and gray stones brushed in white fog and the good news that our bikes would be driveable. Coincidentally, it was also a holiday for Vishwakarma, the Hindu God of Machines. The faithful decorated their cars, trucks, and motorbikes with red and yellow dye and ribbons. Considering the state of our bikes, we were in no mood for any of Vishwakarma’s nonsense. What have you done for me lately, Vishwakarma? Today would be the greatest reason to take bikes to Mustang. In one three hour drive, the highland forests turn to pine trees clinging to cliffs in vistas reminiscent of Swiss alps. Within an hour, the landscape morphs again into desiccated, stark mountains decorated in tawny stones and small patches of green clinging to life on a whole new planet. We had made it to the windy valley, to Jomsom. Bikes shaking with wear, bodies shocked from temperature change and altitude, we crossed 2,700 meters above sea level to get to our goal: Shinta Mani Mustang. GM Pradyot Rana tells BK that around 40% of guests will arrive at this lush hotel by helicopter, the rest by plane. We arrived caked in dried mud of four different hues, chugging our bikes up the six sharp bends to the stupa and golden yak at the entrance. Nothing like this hotel has ever existed in Jomsom—or for that matter the whole of the Annapurna range. It’s a design-forward luxury hotel boasting perhaps the greatest view (weather permitting) in the whole of South Asia. The mountains that in Pokhara seemed to be almost on the moon are now 22
the whole horizon, almost like you can reach out and touch them.
Morning in Kalopani in Mustang
Some features here will be familiar to guests at Bensley’s Shinta Mani properties in Cambodia—a Bensley butler, the Tim Burton-like parallel lines, the wild throws and pillows—but this is a toned down, neutral aesthetic. A long outdoor corridor slices down to the lobby, flanked on both sides by the 29 rooms. Inside, guests will find the only dining venue, Nilgiri, and the bar, Aara Bar. The temperature will plummet in the winter months, but the property comes equipped with a fashionable fire pit, and the mountains are still visible, even at night, from indoors. The building is made from local stone, reminiscent of the soft grays that run through the Kali Gandaki River below, and traditional touches are found in every corner: yak fur on the mini-bar, Tibetan mantras etched in stone, local logs of prosperity in the wall, and floor to ceiling windows that let the true star of the location—the Himalayas—into your room. You wake to blue skies, apple orchards, and the mighty Annapurna peaks in a luxurious room designed to make Earth’s largest mountain range into window dressing. The menu comes from Chef Krishna who builds a fruit-heavy tasting menu from local ingredients, including what we thought would be Hokkaido scallops that turned out to be local radishes. This is not an easy part of the world to live in. For a few months of the year, many in higher Mustang subsist on only a few dishes. With this, Shinta Mani Mustang makes a bounty.
The landscape shifts to the dry, windy Jomsom area
It’s a holistic resort. Everything from wellness facilities to excursions are available here. From archery and horse riding to yoga and the famous Mustang caves, Shinta Mani Mustang. Our journey continued to Lupra and Muktinath temple at 3,700 meters above sea level, just a few hours’ drive from the Shinta Mani Mustang. Jomsom, for trekkers or leisure travelers, has always been a jumping off point for something more. Now that’s changed. Shinta Mani Mustang is a destination unto itself. The landscape will always be the star of Lower Mustang. But now there’s more reason to drive—and drive faster. ●
BANGKOK
NO.833 I FRIDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2023
WEED MAP
This isn’t just any list, it’s the very best places in Bangkok to find dispensaries, cafes and lounges.
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NO.833 I FRIDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2023
hit list
Visit a piece of Thai history at the world’s first Muay Thai stadium When it comes to Muay Thai, there’s no venue more iconic than Bangkok’s Rajadamnern Stadium. Offering seven days a week of non-stop Muay Thai action, it’s the only combat sports stadium where every night is a fight night. Built in 1945, the stadium is an extraordinary reflection of the evolution of Muay Thai over the years, to the point where one could argue that the sport as we know it today would not exist without the venue. From the grand architecture to the electrifying atmosphere every night, experience 78 years of living history for yourself and find out why Rajadamnern is referred to as the birthplace of Muay Thai.
Ikea Sukhumvit to open at Emsphere this December
8, Ratchadamnoen Nok Road, 02-281-4205. Open Mon-Tues, 7-9pm; Wed-Thurs, 6-10pm; Fri-Sat, 7-9pm; Sun, 10am-noon, 6-10pm
On Dec 1, the Swedish born furniture chain store IKEA will be launching its fourth location in Thailand. Situated in the soon to be opened The Emsphere mall, this new branch will be the first in Southeast Asia to implement the City Center Store concept—meaning the location will be more accessible and will take a lifestyle approach to urban living. The new showroom is centered in Sukhumvit, making it easily accessible by public transport. It’s good news for shoppers who don’t want to go all the way to Mega Bangna or Bangyai for Ikea for flatpack furniture. What’s more, fans of the Ikea Restaurant meatballs to pasta bolognese won’t miss out at this location, and the eatery will include a view over Benjasiri park. For convenience, Ikea also offers Market Hall Self Service for hungry visitors.
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Bearbrick world tour travels to King Power Mahanakhon this month
Popular perfumery Copenn opens second store on Sukhumvit 24
King Power Mahanakhon will host the Be@rbrick World Wide Tour 3 from Oct 5-Nov 5, featuring the cult collectables at one of Bangkok’s most famous addresses. Since its debut in 2001, the Medicom Bearbrick (or Be@rbrick), an iconic teddy bear-shaped figurine, has evolved from kitsch to highly acclaimed contemporary fashion statement, earning its place as one of the most coveted collectibles around the world. Highly limited, the figurine has a thriving cult following that includes Pharrell Williams, Ben Baller and Steve Aoiki. The event will showcase Bearbrick designs by top world creators who have used the bears as a canvas, also featuring the oversized 1000% Bearbrick scaled bears. At the exhibition, each visionary designer will infuse their creativity and craftsmanship into the collection. ●
Thai perfumery Copenn has expanded to a new location on Sukhumvit 24— and fans are loving it. The brand is known for its unique blend of house-made perfumes, sleek concept stores, and deep storytelling—at least for a retail fragrance outlet. Much of what is discussed at these stores revolves around the impact scents have on people’s moods and emotions, and dedicates a large portion of its brand identity to storytelling elements that accompany each release. In 2021, it launched its inaugural line “Chapter One: Term of Cultivate” where soil and metal play a central role in the scents and design of the store. After a year, the store closed down and underwent a renovation specifically for the release of its next line, “Chapter Two: Evolutionis Magna,” which is dedicated to observing, monitoring, and sensing the environment as it changed over time. 25
last word
CHEF BLACK’S NEW BOOK PUTS 120 TYPES OF THAI FISH IN A NEW LIGHT Vinita Chumsri
Phanuphon ‘Black’ Bulsuwan is more than a chef. He’s a restaurateur, an author, and a face on TV and TEDx talks. His culinary journey started a decade ago with the Blackitch Artisan Kitchen in Chiang Mai. This 16-seated restaurant is known to serve holistic localized artisan cuisine with Black’s expert curing methods, and now Black turns his attention to putting a whole new light on Thai fish. BK speaks to Black about his new book the “Thai Fishes Book: Cooking Experience and Techniques.”
Blackitch has come a long way from its beginnings. How did you get here? Blackitch Artisan Kitchen started 10 years ago, and it started as a chef’s table, offering a tasting menu that placed a strong emphasis on the wealth of local produce and ingredients available in Thailand. Our goal was to shine a spotlight on seasonal ingredients, including some that were exceptionally rare, and to tell a story behind each one to foster a deeper connection between our diners and the suppliers and producers. Let’s talk about your new book. The book contains around 120 different types of Thai fish. Why did you choose to write about Thai fish? The first reason is that I want people to know the names of Thai fish. I believe it’s essential for people to know the names of the fish they’re eating. We’re quite familiar with the names of fish from other countries, like Japan and those that are commonly imported. However, when it comes to fish from our own country, we often fall short in identifying them or even knowing their names. When we know the names of these fish, it demystifies them, making us less hesitant to buy them, try different preparations, or even ask for guidance on how to cook and pair them
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… Many lesser-known fish species are underutilized and end up being used for fish balls and animal food, which is such a waste. The unfamiliar appearance of some of these fish might be why people are hesitant to buy them, decreasing their value. The second reason is to empower individuals with diverse cooking techniques. I’ve included different recipes for the various fish species listed. By offering a range of cooking methods, I hope to give people the confidence to experiment with these fish in their own kitchens. This book provides detailed information about each fish: their origin, characteristics. I also cover practical aspects like how to properly handle and prepare the fish, from how to kill and pack them to deboning. You collaborated with two other chefs, Orb Vasinopas and New Saruthanajarern. Could you tell us more about this collaboration and your reasons for working together? Orb and New are both highly skilled chefs from Kensaku Sushi, a renowned Japanese restaurant. We’ve had a longstanding friendship, and we all share a deep understanding of fish. Our collaboration was born from a shared goal: to showcase that Thai fish is not just good, but exceptional.
NO.833 I FRIDAY, OCTOBER 27, 2023
Writing a book is often a challenging but rewarding journey. Can you share some of the key lessons or insights you’ve gained during the process? The first lesson is how enjoyable the experience has been. I embarked on this project with the intention of exploring Thai fish, and I discovered that I was learning alongside my readers. Some of the fish featured in the book were previously unfamiliar to me, and being able to experiment with them, try out different cooking techniques, and share these experiences with others has been a delight. It’s important to emphasize that this book isn’t just a cookbook; it’s a platform for sharing experiences and ideas with people who are equally curious. We’re all on this journey together, and I don’t claim to be a fish guru or the ultimate expert in cooking fish. I’m simply someone who is starting a conversation and encouraging others to join in. My hope is to provide readers with a foundational knowledge of fish, inspiring them to explore and experiment with these ingredients, which, in turn, can contribute to the recognition of the fish and seafood industry in Thailand. You talk a lot about your interests in food security and sustainability. As a chef, how do you see your role in that? Sustainability is a concept that extends far beyond what ends up on your plate. It’s a holistic approach that involves everyone
in the food supply chain, from producers to consumers. As a chef, my role is to act as a bridge between these components. I see my role as that of a communicator and an advocate for sustainability. It’s about informing and educating diners about what they’re eating and the story behind their meals. It’s not just about taste; it’s about understanding the value and mission of the producers who supply the food. For instance, when it comes to seafood, I educate my customers on how to select quality seafood, what to look for, and what to avoid. It’s not just about the aesthetics, like the color or appearance of the meat. The most critical aspect is that it’s well-sourced and sustainable. This means ensuring that there are no added hormones or preservatives and that the animal or plant has been raised or farmed in an environmentally responsible way. The most important role of a chef for me is that we are given these fresh ingredients and how we can make the best dish we can with it. It must be difficult to tick all the boxes when it comes to sourcing the “best” ingredients for sustainability and ensuring they also taste good. Can you share how you find this balance? It is not as difficult as it might seem. I firmly believe that the most delicious food is what’s in season. It’s not only affordable and flavorful but also safe to eat because
in-season produce tends to be naturally grown without heavy pesticide use. Take, for example, something that might seem a bit too sour, but in its own way, it’s perfect. My role as a chef is to help people understand the intrinsic value of these ingredients, to show them that it’s truly the best of what nature has to offer. I believe that everything on this planet has its unique worth and meaning, and it’s our responsibility to uncover and appreciate that value. Can you share more about what’s on the horizon for you? In November, we have an exciting new venture. We’re opening a restaurant in Phang Nga, situated at the port leaving Koh Surin and Koh Similan. This restaurant will be an extension of the ideas explored in my fish book. The fish for our dishes will be coming fresh from the boat, right behind where we’ll be cooking. It’ll be called “Cath and Coal,” and it will feature a diverse menu from the recipes in the book. You can expect a variety of cuisines, from ceviche to fish and chips, fish burgers, and the catch of the day special. Next year, we have plans for a second fish book, as the first book has only recorded fish from 2022-2023. I’ll also be working on a fermentation book in collaboration with Chef Weerawat ‘Num’ Triyasenawat from Samuay and Sons. This book aims to demystify fermentation, showing that it’s not as complicated as it might seem. ● 27
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