BLACK LUNG SPRING FASHION ISSUE

BLACK LUNG

SPRING

BLACK LUNG

SPRING Price $5.00 USD

100 Limited Edition Print

ISSUE ONE: FASHION

INDEX † ARTIST CREDITS and CONTRIBUTORS 02 Illustrations + Interview: Natalia Czajkiewicz, Seattle 05 Interview: Model Jennifer Bobbin, New York <<SPRING FASHION>> 08 Bones + Heads + Steven Meisel, Untitled 10 Advice From Color Experts.

11 Designers To Watch or not.

12 Make A Gucci.

14 Become Rodarte.

15 Snowflake + Heads 16 Interview: Designer Tanya Min Jee Ellis, Seattle <<THERE IS...>> 21 Photograph: April Lea, Montreal 22 A Shaded View On Fashion.

23 Illustration: Steph Chard, Brisbane 24 London's Bones.

25 London's Ghost.

26 Get it + Goodbye

Cover: Kim Holland for BLACK LUNG Opposite: Helmut Newton, Fingernail Story Curated + Edited by Kim Holland for BLACK LUNG LIMITED †Rights owned by above listed artists. Say it when you play it.

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ILLUSTRATOR Natalia Czajkiewicz Although the illustrations of Natalia Czajkiewicz are not fashion-based, it is

easy to see her eye for detailed style. Hand made typography, the colors of a professional make-up palette, and geometric webbing showcase her collection of women beautifully. Some wonderful thoughts on her work: I think I am captivated by the human spirit and resiliency. When I people watch I almost always notice the people lost in thought or that seem worried in some way. I for some reason am more captivated by darker emotions, maybe I find them more mysterious. I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t see it as a negative thing though. I think it is also very reflective of me having struggled with anxiety issues for most of my adult life. Fear and what it can do to people is an interesting topic to me.

Fashion and expressing yourself through makeup, clothing, shoes, hair has always been inspiring to me. I think the greatest is when you see people walking down the street in some crazy outfit they probably made or found in an attic. I love all the young fashion bloggers out there that are just taking it to the next level. Tavi at Style Rookie of course is a huge inspiration; that girl is going to rule the fashion world in like 10 years.

There are so many ways to answer that question. In the art world it certainly can be at times. Since I have only ever been a woman I would say that is all I can relate to. I think in many ways it is difficult just to be human, being on Earth is crazy and amazing! I love being a woman and have never thought my life would be better if I wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t one.

To contact Natalia, or to see more of her work, visit lostteeth.net.

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Page two : Who Lives In The House You Died In, 11x14â&#x20AC;? pencil + ink + acrylic on paper 2010 Above : Possibility, 8x10" pencil + digital color 2010

INTERVIEW MODEL Jennifer Bobbin, New York, New York The last time we spoke, you landed a job with a firm in New York, and moved there. When did you decide to model?

Modeling was something I always dreamed of doing, but there was never the time, or the opportunity, to do it.

Most models start when they're in their teens, but during those years my parents were all about me getting an education, and wouldn't allow me to take time away from school to pursue modeling. So, after graduating college I moved to NYC "for a business career," but secretly hoped to be able to pursue my modeling dream.

Not too long after moving here I started to get into it little by little.

How did you get your start?

Part of me was afraid to try modeling and fail, or find out I had zero potential. When you're a tall girl, people always ask if you either play basketball, or, if you're relatively thin, are a model. I started out doing some small shows for a boutique in the Lower East Side, then had the opportunity to model weekly for a summer series at the exclusive Soho House in the Meat Packing District. The series featured high-end designers and established professional models. That was a great summer for me.

Photo by Diana Sonis

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How difficult is it to keep up with the industry? Any websites/blogs that give you the inside scoop?

The industry is always changing, and there's really no one "look" in modeling or in fashion. Sure, there are trends, but everyone has his or her opinion of what's "in." That's the nice thing about modeling, and what helps you from taking rejection too personally. One agency or designer may not like you, but to the next you are the best thing to ever walk through the door. Modelinia.com is a favorite site of mine for keeping up with the modeling industry. It is a great resource for learning who's who and putting a name with a face. For fashion, I LOVE The Sartorialist (http:// www.thesartorialist.blogspot.com/). His photographs are so amazing and inspiring. He has a gift for creating images you can relate to emotionally.

What music do you put on for getting ready to go out? Best music for the runway?

My pump up music for going out varies, but the go-to's are Michael Jackson and David Bowie. I hate to admit it, but Top 40 dance music, Britney, Beyonce and Rihanna, usually has that addicting beat that you can't resist no matter how hard you try, and I really do try! As far as the runway goes, it's all about the beat and it's gotta have a beat that you can look badass to. One of my favorite modeling stories goes back to the fact that my mom was a huge David Bowie fan. Because of her, I listened to Bowie a lot growing up and ultimately became a fan myself. As a little girl I'd listen to "Fashion" and pretend I was a model. For my very last walk of the final summer show, I turned back from the end of the runway and "Fashion" started to play. It was a perfect moment and the ideal culmination to modeling that summer. I only wish it was on for the whole time I was walking!

Prime shopping in NYC? One of the best things about shopping in NYC is the sample sales! I got a very unique DVF dress at a sample sale for a fraction of its original price, while it was still current. Walk around the Fashion District and you'll be sure to have fliers shoved at you advertising a designer's sample sale. Many of the newspapers run ads notifying the public of upcoming sales. These sales are a great way to experience the cycle of the industry that consumers don't typically get to take part in outside of NYC.

What are your favorite looks for Spring?

I'm excited for metallics, as well as interested to see how the cutouts/ mesh/slit trend pans out. It can either go really bad, or be a great alternative to letting it all hang out there. I'm glad to see that boyfriend blazers are still on the scene because I love their versatility.

Matthew Williamson Autumn 2009

Thanks Jenn!

Be on the lookout for her face on the cover of VOGUE Magazine!

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SPRING

FASHION

Creating a season will last throughout the year Spring Color Season. The French call it, Printemps. We recognize it as the season of fresh, clean, and tender new leaves.

You will illuminate the visual effect of this, light refreshing yourself and the world around you by what you wear.

Ever wondered why some people "have it", and others don't? It's a fine combination of the right colors, the right cosmetics, and the right wardrobe that is bound to inspire confidence in anyone. And luckily, its not as difficult to discover as you might think.

It is important to understand that a person is usually not just one season.

Most people are blends. A seasonal blend means that you are influenced by more than one season.

For complete collection visit blancanddelta.com.

Photos oak.com

Emerging Brisbane fashion label blanc + delta is conceived on delicate designs and a palette of classic colors to create a distinct collection.

The Spring/Summer 09/10 collection, “Into the Twilight” features designs that draw on the current trend of soaring mid-thigh lengths and contrasted colors reminiscent of Givenchy’s Spring 2010 collection in Paris. Blanc + delta’s designs are unreservedly feminine with their signature frills and soft hues of silver, beige, apricot and black. The young designer behind the label, Bianca Daly is one to watch down under. STEPH CHARD

"if i had to say we stood for any colors it would be the non colors black and white."

Seattle design team CMR TYZ create impressive, labor intensive shredded street wear for those who don't necessarily listen to advice on first impressions.

Found at Blackbird in Seattle and Oak in New York. KH Let 'em know at cmrtyz.com.

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MAKE A GUCCI. 1. Shop your closet, thrift or discount store. Aim for tight, one size too small, in white, grey or black.

2. Turn garment inside out, try on and sketch asymmetrical lines across the body, or draw snowflake-inspired cutouts on front and back.

3. Slice and sew straps, hem where necessary. ((Leave tattered edges for a Fendi feel)) 4. Part and slick back hair.

5. Use fabric remnants over stilettos to design matching pattern.

Not as sleek as you had envisioned?

YOU ARE RODARTE. BECOME THE STORY of "this girl who kind of became part of a ravaged landscape, and then, for some reason, she burns alive and is reborn as a California condor."

BECOME RODARTE: 1. Burn, stain, shred and sandpaper fabric.

2. Wrap long bands of ruined fabric around torso, shoulders, and let ends hang freely to floor.

3. Paint arms and run fingers through hair.

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INTERVIEW FASHION DESIGNER Tanya Min Jee Ellis, Seattle, WA Seattle Fashion Designer Tanya Min Jee Ellis is steadily making a name for herself with remarkably well-crafted, thought provoking ready-to-wear for a woman who shares her easy coolness of inner confidence. We met at one of her favorite local cafes in Seattle's Wallingford neighborhood, the dark woods and rich scents of coffee a perfect backdrop to discuss the vision for her line, Tanya Min Jee. Ellis, who uses a challenging 25 pieces in her patterns, "produces a really graphic garment without changing too much of the body where people don't get it."

The influences for her completed Spring 2010 collection seep out in the details, in a "quieter approach" as she puts it. The black and white band divisions are purely aesthetic, a trait she points out in a photograph of local architecture. The building, a 1908 historic landmark in the Pike-Pine triangle, boasts the masculinity, classicism and simplicity of her work. The next

day, I received an image from her of a home designed by the Buenos Airesbased firm AndrĂŠs Remy Arquitectos, easily dovetailing her love of "straight lines and breaking up of stuff", and the original Modern home designs of Los Angeles, CA. As much attention as Ellis gives to detailed construction, she gives just as much to its marketability. I was slightly surprised at how well Ellis talks shop, until she mentions her retail experience on a nationally-branded sales floor. She casually references the attitudes of her educated clientele, who "want something new and are willing to pay for it." Her aim is to create a "timeless piece forever in your closet" and would much prefer a client buying one go-to piece, than wear it only once for a special occasion. A Tanya Min Jee garment sells for $185$465 USD, a considerable asking price for a student designer, which she acknowledges. She does not hesitate to say that she enjoys publicity, good or

bad. It is uncommon to hear a designer state: â&#x20AC;&#x153;I enjoy listening to both positive and negative feedback because it only strengthens my skills as a designer,â&#x20AC;? but that is what you can expect from Ellis.

From early childhood, Ellis contends that technical design was her goal. She thoughtfully notes the skilled ease of her family's talents. Her sister, an interior designer, "she's got it." As the daughter of an established architect, she assisted in the building of their family beach house and grew to understand the patience and reward of true craftsmanship. Later enrolled in the University of Washington's fiber arts program, Ellis focused on surface design:"I did a lot a of weaving, I did all of what old ladies supposedly do, if old ladies had done it, I'd done it" and explains that for her it takes work, work that she gratifies in and deeply enjoys.

By way of her sketches, she was encouraged to pursue fashion design as a career. Several times during our meeting, Ellis attributed her recent success to the direction of Terry Horlamus, The New York Fashion Academy, Seattle. Horlamus, formerly of VOGUE, "teaches differently than

how I have seen people get taught" in the sense that she instructs a specialized, skills-based program, enabling her graduates to excel in fashion as a vocation. According to the school's website, NYFA offers the only comprehensive high-fashion curriculum in the Northwest. After seeing Ellis' work, it would be hard to argue that claim.

Satoko Coat Pattern, Spring 2010

In the midst of creating her untitled Fall/Winter 2010 collection due this summer, she will hold true to her rooted influences. Ellis began the design process with her fabrics: black, white, cream. This collection will include what sounds to be a lavish classic irregular weave, paired with her

signature banding in monochromatic, rather than contrasting, colors. My advice, if you are fashionista in search of a stunning piece of ready-to-wear with couture-like qualities, order a piece now. When asked what is in store for her and Tanya Min Jee in this decade, she did not doubt the thought that this collection may be her last. Ellis could see herself working under an established label, enabling her to continue gaining respect as an industry business woman.

Watch out for what lies ahead of Tanya Min Jee Ellis, as she will easily accomplish her set goals to create positive relationships, continuously improve her already sincere and passionate character, and establish life-changing connections in the fashion world.

Connect with Tanya Min Jee Ellis at .

tanyaminjee.com

Designs : Tanya Min Jee Ellis Photography : Peter Gaan Makeup : Stace Quach Hair : Kaycie Baker Models : Alyssa Knowling, Gabriela Yanitz (last image)

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Marc by Marc Jacobs

Luella

THERE IS SOMETHING ON YOUR HEAD...

BOWS. NEON OR GO‡H MAKE-UP.

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TIMELESSNESS. VEILS, DISKS, HATS, FLOWERS.

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BUNS, BONES, PALENESS, HALLOW EYES, LIGHT OR NO BROWS.

Lavin, Spring 2010 Beauty’s Lot, London 1778

GHOSTS.

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BLACK LUNG SPRING ISSUE ONE: FASHION SEE ALL THE GLORIOUS COLORS ONLINE FOR FREE NOW! issuu.com/blacklung ORDER A LIMITED EDITION COPY! blacklunglimited.etsy.com Write to us: 24 Roy St #178 Seattle, WA 98109 Email us: magazine@blacklunglimited.com © BLACK LUNG 2010