Special Features - Vancouver Island North Tourism Guide 2015

Vancouver Island North 2015 Official Guide

Escape into Nature.

nature

adventure

history

Whale Watch telegraph cove northern VancouVer island

www.stubbs-island.com British ColumBia’s 1st Whale WatChing Company – Founded 1980

reserVations 1-800-665-3066 Stubbs Island Whale Watching is dedicated to ethical wildlife viewing, education and conservation.

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rated “excellent”

Black Bear Resort & Spa Newest resort & spa on northern Vancouver Island

Spectacular ocean view rooms West Coast cabins Deluxe continental breakfast Free wireless internet No smoking/no pets Wheelchair accessible rooms BBQ area Kitchenette suites Meeting room Adult only spa facility and pool area Fitness centre 25 minutes from BC Ferries terminal to Prince Rupert BC

Port McNeill - British Columbia 1-866-956-4900 info@blackbearresort.net BlackBearResort.net www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

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Welcome to Vancouver Island North

V

ancouver Island North is the first word and last stop in western Canada for relaxed and spontaneous eco-adventure.

The upper third of North America’s largest island is unspoiled and largely undiscovered yet just a day’s travel from Vancouver, Victoria and Seattle. It offers a breathtaking palette of parks, forests, lakes, saltwater inlets and jigsaw-puzzle coastline. Black bears forage for berries, whales splash at sea and eagles glide overhead. The region also stretches past the shores of Vancouver Island to include magnificent Knight Inlet and a swath of the Great Bear Rainforest on the mainland of British Columbia.

Our friendly towns and villages are charmingly relaxed, pleasingly civilized and within easy reach of the area’s many special wild places. Once unpacked, you’re free to experience the North Island at your own pace. Spend your days out at sea, exploring magical coastlines, or immersed in our inland wilderness. Meet and mingle with the friendly locals at cultural, seasonal and community festivals. Shop for crafts created on the North Island.

Experience First Nations traditions, art, and living culture. Dine on the day’s catch around a campfire or treat yourself to a meal at one of our restaurants.

As the sun sinks in the west, relax with your traveling companions wherever you’ve settled – wilderness campground, B&B, cabin, cottage, hotel or resort. Trade stories, flip through digital snapshots and plan tomorrow’s new adventure. After all the fresh air and active playtime, you’ll sleep well and awake refreshed, revitalized and ready for more.

Explore the North Island on your own with go-anywhere impulsiveness. Or hand the reins to expert guides and charter operators. Troll for salmon in Queen Charlotte Strait or steelhead and trout in inland lakes. Watch as orcas power their way to the ocean surface. Ski world-class powder at crowd-free Mount Cain.

Photograph black bears on the Island and their grizzly counterparts in the Great Bear Rainforest on the adjacent mainland coast. Run the world’s fastest navigable tidal rapids. Try scuba diving at God’s Pocket Marine Park, surfing at Raft Cove or kayaking on the sheltered east or wild west coasts. Perhaps best of all, strap on a backpack for a trek to windswept, impossibly scenic Cape Scott Provincial Park at the island’s northern tip.

The Kwakwaka’wakw peoples have called this region home for thousands of years. Alert Bay is internationally known for its First Nations cultural centre, public dance performances and the world’s tallest totem pole. Gain a deeper connection to the land and the people by taking a guided cultural tour.

Fishing, logging and mining drew the first European settlers north in the 1860s, and their history is documented in a good selection of local museums. Telegraph Cove is a virtual museum in itself with its wooden buildings, boardwalk and whale interpretive centre. Peaceful oceanfront communities like Sointula, Sayward and Quatsino remain havens for the same getaway-from-it-all dreams that drew their original homesteaders.

Find yourself while getting lost in nature. Enjoy the amenities of our towns and villages. And visit during summer festival season for a taste of authentic community spirit. Whether you’re seeking adventure or relaxation, this remote yet accessible corner of British Columbia serves up outdoor pleasures with a satisfying dash of comfort.

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Cover: San Joseph Bay and above Images © Boomer Jerritt.

ACTI V ITIES

youtube.com/VancouverIslandNorth

twitter.com/vinorthtourism

facebook.com/vancouverislandnorth.ca 2015 Vancouver Island North Guide Published by the North Island Gazette www.northislandgazette.com Box 458, Port Hardy BC V0N 2P0 Phone 250-949-6225 Design & Production publisher@northislandgazette.com Publisher: Dave Hamilton Sales: Rachel Tam Graphic Design: Marnie Neaves In partenership with: Vancouver Island Tourism www.vancouverislandnorth.ca ©2014 North Island Gazette No portion of the magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of the North Island Gazette.

WHALE WATCHING

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WILDLIFE VIEWING

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SPORT FISHING

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HIKING

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CAPE SCOTT PROVINCIAL PARK

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COMMUNITIES

DIVING

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HOLBERG & WINTER HARBOUR

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FIRST NATIONS

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PORT ALICE

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MUSEUMS & CULTURAL CENTRES

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ALERT BAY

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COAL HARBOUR

29

QUATSINO

29

CAVING

- KAYAKING

FACILITIES

&

INFO

ACCOMMODATIONS

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PORT HARDY

30

CAMPING & RECREATION SITES

19

PORT MCNEILL

36

CHARTERS

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BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGO

38

DINING

16

TELEGRAPH COVE

39

FUN & RELAXATION

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SAYWARD

42

TRAVELLING

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SOINTULA

43

2015 EVENTS CALENDAR

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WOSS & NIMPKISH VALLEY

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REGIONAL MAP

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ZEBALLOS

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www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

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Orca sighting in Johnstone Strait.

BE WHALE WISE. The following guidelines apply to all tour operators, commercial and pleasure craft, as well as kayaks and other self-propelled vessels: •

Be cautious and courteous, approaching known areas of marine wildlife activity with extreme caution

•

Reduce speed to less than 7 knots when within 400 meters of the nearest whale

•

Keep clear of the whales’ path of travel

•

Do not approach whales from the front or behind, always approach and depart from the side

•

Do not approach or position your vessel closer than 100 meters to any whale

•

Stay on the offshore side of the whales when they are travelling close to shore

•

Do not swim with, touch or feed marine wildlife

Whale Watching V

ancouver Island North’s most celebrated residents are its marine mammals.

Members of a population of some 260 fisheating orcas known as the “northern residents” are often in the area in pursuit of salmon. The more stealthy mammal-eating population of orca known as “Transients” or “Bigg’s killer whales” are also often hunting in the area.

Back from the brink of extinction, humpback whales are now also a regular sighting and

make this area all the more remarkable for its marine mammal diversity. Sightseeing trips may also encounter Pacific harbour seals, Dall’s and harbour porpoise, Minke whales and a prodigious array of seabirds. Acrobatic Pacific white-sided dolphins and the world’s largest sea lion species, the Steller sea lion, are in the area year-round, though spring and fall are the most predictable times to see large numbers of both. The sight of dozens of sea lions lazing on the rocks and growling loudly is unforgettable.

Vancouver Island North tour operators view all of these magnificent creatures with respect.

The small community of operators here is dedicated to ensuring safe, sustainable encounters that serve marine mammals and sightseers in equal measure. Captains closely adhere to “Be Whale Wise” guidelines that dictate that boats stay at least 100 meters away from any whales. That’s not to say these remarkable mammals won’t make a memorable encounter on their own terms.

IN ADDITION with the return of humpback whales to the area, for the sake of both human and whale safety, extra measures are required to avoid collision:

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•

Humpbacks are large, can surface suddenly and be very unaware of boats.

•

Be on the lookout for blows at all times. Go slow if you see a blow.

•

If you see the Whale Watch Flag raised on boats, slow down as this means whales are near.

•

See the Marine Education and Research Society’s page for known areas of known whale density and further information on safe boater behaviour around whales www.mersociety.org/ blowgoslow.htm

•

Please report incidents e.g. disturbance, collision and entanglement to: DFO’s Reporting Line 1-800-465-4336.

Seasmoke Whale Watching in Johnstone Strait. © Boomer Jerritt

To stay safe and make the most of these rare photo opportunities, please be aware of the following when encountering wildlife:

DID YOU KNOW: The wildlife viewing community on Northern Vancouver Island cares so much about the whales that they initiated a program to inform boaters how to do what’s right for the whales. When you see the Whale Watch Flag raised on a nearby vessel, it means whales are in the area - Slow down and watch for blows. See www. nimmsa.org for more information on this program.

•

Always travel in a group and keep a close eye on small children and pets for safety when hiking in the woods

•

Talk, sing, whistle or wear a bell when hiking in order to avoid startling a wild animal

•

If you encounter a wild animal, stay back a respectful distance so that they do not feel threatened

•

Do not feed wild animals

•

If confronted by a wild animal, pick up small children, make yourself look as large as possible, back away slowly and leave the area

•

Never run from a wild animal

•

The safest encounter (for both you and the animal) is an encounter that is avoided

Sail with the Whales Eco Friendly Tours Our tours depart from Alder Bay Resort located on Vancouver Island near Port McNeill and Telegraph Cove, and from Alert Bay on Cormorant Island.

Wildlife Viewing W

ild things roam here. Expect your first sightings to be majestic bald eagles riding the updrafts overhead or perhaps a black bear munching on sweet grass at the edge of Highway 19 (locally known as “bear alley”). The Roosevelt Elk and Vancouver Island Marmot are unique to the region. Great blue herons fish at the edge of estuaries that echo with the sweet call of songbirds.

The Vancouver Island North region includes a section of the mainland coast that is renowned as one of the world’s finest destinations for grizzly bear sightseeing. Day tours depart from Telegraph Cove to Knight Inlet by boat, and multi-day tours (including accommodation at a floating wilderness lodge) head to the Great Bear Rainforest from Port Hardy by floatplane.

Our highlights include a Devonshire Tea served on board since 1986!

Seasmoke Whale Watching 250.974.5225 | 1.800.668.ORCA www.seasmokewhalewatching.com/highlights www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

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North Island Sport Fishing. © Boomer Jerritt

DID YOU KNOW: All recreational sport fishing license are now delivered electronically through the National Recreational Licensing System, www-ops2.pac. dfo-mpo.gc.ca/nrls-sndpp/ index-eng.cfm – Purchase yours in advance of your fishing trip to save this step upon your arrival.

Charters Nakwakto Rapids Tour Guided by native storytellers and seasoned skippers, visit the world’s fastest navigable tidal rapids and explore coastal wilderness.

250.230.3574 www.nakwaktorapidstours.com Departing from the Art Shack, Seagate Dock Port Hardy

Sport Fishing I

mmerse yourself in one of the North Island’s most enjoyable pastimes. Cast a line as you motor past postcard maritime scenery.

30+ years experience Rumble Beach Wait patiently for the big ones to bite while enjoying the camaraderie in local waters.

Fishing Charters & Sightseeing Tours of fellow passengers and the good humour of the laid-back guides Come enjoy a day on our 20 foot Bayliner Trophy equipped with all the who lead charter expeditions. Then get set to reel in the catch of the rs te a w l necessary safety gear as well as any a c day, soon to be cleaned and readied for either the evening campfire or lo nce in e ri e p x e fishing gear that is needed. s” professionally prepared, frozen or vacuum-packed, for the trip home. ars plu “30 ye250.284.6204 Regan Hickling com r. te r a h c g in All five varieties of Pacific salmon run fast on migration routes that hfish 250.209.2779 79 down the west and east side of the Island, occasionally detouring umblebeacCell 09-27travel -2 0 5 www.rwww.rumblebeachfishingcharters.com 2 : ll e c r o 4 0 2 -6 4 8 BC V0N 2N0 0-2Alice on tides and currents out into the Queen Charlotte Strait. That gives 25Port N0Box• 1, , BC V0N 2 e c li A North Island fishing enthusiasts first dibs on these members of the rt o P Box 1, genus known as Oncorhynchus (aka the big pink ones) as they head south to their spawning grounds.

Regan Hick

ling

Port McNeill 250-956-FISH(3474) C: 250.230.0579 TF: 1.855.805. FISH(3474)

wwww.vanislefishing.com

8 | www.northislandgazette.com

Float your own boat at one of the many convenient ramps in our waterfront communities. Or hire a qualified charter operator. Local guides supply all the gear and advice necessary to reel in prize catches.

Comfortable fishing boats are available by the half-day or day (be sure to book in advance). And you don’t have to go far from shore since the fish are typically biting within the length of a fishing line cast from any available dock.

Visitor Information Centers have leads on guides and useful tips on what’s biting when and where. Also available are maps of the logging roads that head to steelhead and trout-filled wilderness lakes and

TOP 10 FISHING HOLES SALTWATER

Fly Fishing at Cluxewe Beach © Boomer Jerritt

FRESHWATER BLACKFISH SOUND........ Nimpkish Lake DUVAL POINT.............

Schoen Lake GORDON GROUP...........

Roberts Lake MASTERMAN ISLAND......

Victoria Lake TELEGRAPH COVE..........

Woss Lake CORMORANT ISLAND...... O’Connor Lake CLUXEWE RIVER MOUTH Quatse River WELLS PASSAGE............ Nahwitti River HADDINGTON ISLAND.....

Keogh River QUATSINO SOUND.........

Cluxewe River

You caught the big one... + LOCALS KNOW: In early September the boat is optional! An incredible fishing experience can be had right from the dock or the seashore near the mouth North Island rivers as the salmon start returning during the spawning season.

streams. These routes are bumpy, and a solid four-wheel drive vehicle is recommended (but not essential provided one drives slow and easy).

...what are you going to do with it?

We can help with:

Custom Smoking Custom filleting & vacuum packaging Shipping services available, some restrictions apply.

To pre-arrange any of these services call

1-877-949-8781

www.hardybuoys.com

9300 Trustee Road, Port Hardy • 250-949-8781 (in the North Island Mall)

North Coast Trail Shuttle Cape Scott Water Taxi Port Hardy to the Cape Scott North Coast Trail

Be sure to time your visit for when the fish are running. Salmon tend to migrate from May through September, and their numbers peak in the summer and fall. Halibut are abundant from March to September. Red snapper and ling cod are also caught locally, as are crab, prawns, oysters and mussels. Ask around at dockside or visit the Fisheries and Oceans Canada website, www.dfo-mpo.gc.ca, for tips about regulations, licenses and conservation areas.

ONE STOP LAND & WATER TRANSPORTATION. The Cape Scott North Coast Trail Shuttle

Runs from May 1 – Sept.15

Larry Weber 250-902-9493

larry@leisuresuitcharters.com www.leisuresuitcharters.com

Specializing in fishing trips for salmon, halibut & steelhead.

Cells: 250-902-8208 • 250-902-8202

www.northcoasttrailshuttle.com www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

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+ LOCALS KNOW:

Cape Scott Trail © Boomer Jerritt

The North Coast Trail in Cape Scott Provincial Park is a 58 km multi-day hiking route that opened in 2008 and is already considered by many to be one of the best backcountry adventures in the world.

Hiking www.vinmap.ca Every day on Vancouver Island North dawns with fresh possibilities for those eager to explore the region on foot. Take it easy with short, scenic loop routes. Spend the day hiking there and back to a postcard picnic spot by lake, river or ocean. Or go long on overnight and multi-day backpacking treks into the heart of nature.

C

asual hikers can map out the day’s agenda over breakfast, then embark on a series of diverse trails. Dedicated trails and abandoned logging roads penetrate deep into the landscape. Many seaside communities are lined with wheelchair-accessible seawalls and boardwalks perfect for family outings and sunset strolls prior to an evening meal. Local Visitor Centres can provide details on such hiking options as the following: Port Hardy’s Quatse Loop and Estuary Trail lead from the fisherman’s wharf and oceanfront hotels. The Quatse Estuary is home to eagles, herons and all kinds of bird life. The

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forested 2.5 km Quatse Loop trail veers off and follows the river past the Quatse Salmon Stewardship Centre with its interpretive displays and hatchery.

Beachcombers flock to Storey’s Beach, an inviting stretch of sand near Fort Rupert just south of Port Hardy. Wade in the gentle tides or tackle the rugged 11 km out-and-back Tex Lyon Trail. The beach is one terminus of the lovely Fort Rupert Trail, a newly upgraded route that follows an ancient First Nations pathway through the forest and past a lake to Bear Cove road.

All the First Nations must-sees of Alert Bay on Cormorant Island are within an easy hike of the ferry terminal. There’s an uphill climb (or relaxed drive) to the Ecological Park with its marsh boardwalk, excellent bird-watching and network of forested trails. Otherwise more relaxed strolling can be had at sea level along the restored boardwalk and oceanfront seawall.

Follow in the footsteps of Sointula’s pioneers along Malcolm Island’s historic Mateoja Heritage Trail, a 6-km return trip. Or watch for orcas when hiking the aptly named Beautiful Bay Trail (10-km return).

The Port McNeill Rotary Trail is a wide, smooth, crushed gravel pathway that runs along Highway 19 and into the Town of Port McNeill. A short distance north of Port McNeill the Cluxewe Salt Marsh Trail offers a sweet 45-minute return trip to the beach.

The Sayward Futures Society manages a series of lovely wilderness hiking trails, including the two-hour forested Cottonwood Loop and, for those with the four-wheel drive vehicles necessary to access it, the Stowe Creek Trail leading to the peak of H’Kusam Mountain.

Find a forest walk along the road to Port Alice where the Marble River Trail offers hikers two destinations, Emerald Pools or Bear Falls especially exciting during the spawning season when the salmon leap through the air in order to pass the falls on their upstream journey.

For a truly unique west coast experience, head past the community of Holberg accessed via gravel logging road from Port Hardy. Look for the signs to Raft Cove, a provincial park with a moderately challenging, 2.5 km trail leading through the coastal rainforest out to the open Pacific Ocean.

North Coast Trail © Steven Fines – www.natureone.ca

Cape Scott Provincial Park www.capescottpark.com Travel is a journey, not a destination, and it’s a memorable one when taken step by remarkable step in exploring the northern tip of Vancouver Island.

Still relatively undiscovered, the sweeping tidal flats, forested trails and ocean-slammed headlands of Cape Scott Provincial Park are increasingly showing up on the radar of the international backpacking community.

D

ay hikers and family groups can get a satisfying taste of the larger possibilities by taking the 90-minute return trail to San Josef Bay’s sandy beach on a well-groomed gravel path from the trailhead parking lot. Backpackers seeking a tougher challenge take the original Cape Scott Trail along 16 km of varied terrain to incredible beach camping at Nels Bight.

The hardiest adventurers, meanwhile, find the ultimate backcountry experience on the North Coast Trail. This is a gloriously challenging grind suitable for experienced hikers capable of tackling steep headlands, muddy sections and gorges with the aid of fixed ropes, boardwalks and cable cars. The 58 km one-way trip requires a minimum of five days.

Travel to the Cape Scott trailhead by driving past Holberg on the gravel logging road or arrange a shuttle from Port Hardy. Water access to Shushartie Bay, the other end of the North Coast Trail, is also available from Port Hardy by water taxi. Shuttle and boat services provided by Cape Scott Water Taxi www. capescottwatertaxi.com.

Many backpackers who want a taste of this park’s rugged beauty without the multi-day trek of the North Coast Trail embark from the Cape Scott trailhead to Nissen Bight, Nels Bight and Guise Bay, all within a day’s hike out.

In 2014 a new Ranger Cabin was constructed at Nels Bight. With 100% off-the-grid construction and facilities, it is outfitted with solar power and LED lighting, a water catchment system, gray water dispersal, and propane appliances. The cabin is staffed during the summer and will function as an emergency shelter for the public during the off season. Please respect this space if visiting during the winter.

Those who head to Cape Scott itself are invited to sign the guest book at the lighthouse. Expect to see trace evidence along the trail of the late 19th century Danish settlers who tried to make this beautiful area their new home in the new world.

Always come prepared! The weather is highly changeable, and layered clothing topped by sturdy rain gear is essential. Overnight campsites are dotted along these routes. Be sure to check out the Virtual Hike of the park by visiting www.capescottpark.com.

www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

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© Boomer Jerritt

Little Huson Caves Regional Park © Boomer Jerritt

Caving S

eeking an accessible yet thrillingly unique new experience?

Vancouver Island North boasts the highest concentration of caves in Canada. Water has worked its alchemical magic on the rugged landscape for hundreds of thousands of years. Result: The relatively soft karst (limestone) topography is riddled with networks of subterranean getaways – some suitable for beginners, others only for the most expert cavers.

Rookies of all ages can explore at Little Huson Caves Regional Park, a 45-minute drive south of Port McNeill, off the Zeballos road. A self-guided tour here includes stops at a natural rock bridge and walk-in, cathedral-style cave.

Everyone can get an easy access look at some of Canada’s finest karst formations from viewing platforms set up along the Alice Lake Loop. It includes stops at the Eternal Fountain with its soothing waterfall, and the

DID YOU KNOW: Killer whale watching from a kayak in Johnstone Strait was rated #2 in the Lonely Planet’s Top 10 list of Canadian Adventures.

Devil’s Bath, a very good example of a cenote, much the same as those found in the Yucatan.

For their part, experienced cavers can explore some of the longest, deepest karst caves in Canada. On the north Island, several of these caves are concentrated in two areas rich in limestone, the Quatsino formation and the Parsons Bay formations – the later is not exclusive to the north Island region as it stretches farther south on Vancouver Island. When exploring underground always have at least two sources of light and a helmet, and let someone know where you are going and when to expect your return. Guides are strongly recommended for the more difficult treks, and regional authorities ask that cavers steer clear of any unmapped caves. Information about the sport on Vancouver Island can be found through the Canadian Caver website at www.cancaver.ca.

+ LOCALS KNOW: There is more to Little Huson Caves Regional Park than the main land bridge feature. There are a number of other caves to explore, a crystal clear river with a unique limestone riverbank, and Little Huson Lake is a short hike upstream. Bring a flashlight and remember that caution should always be used when exploring caves.

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Kayaking E

njoy your on-the-water experience at your own pace. Paddle into shallow coves, up narrow creeks and across lakes while appreciating a silence broken only by the soft smack of paddle against water. Hug the coastline or strike out for a nearby island to picnic on a deserted sandy beach. Since technique and balance are more important than sheer strength, this is one sport that’s increasingly popular with men, women and kids alike.

Strap your own transportation to a roof rack, rent from a local outfitter, or sign up for a guided tour in this world-class paddling destination.

View intertidal life in the clear, cold waters. Seals, sea lions, orcas and maybe even humpback whales are happy to welcome respectful, low-impact visitors to their aquatic playground. The Lonely Planet travel guide ranked killer whale watching from a kayak in Johnstone Strait #2 in their Top 10 list of Canadian Adventures.

Guides and fellow kayakers become fast friends on day trips or longer excursions that might include sleepovers in rustic campgrounds, comfortable base camps or luxurious resorts hidden away on remote islands. Weather and sea conditions can change quickly, so be prepared and travel in a group. A number of local kayaking companies offer tours, lessons and rentals.

E x p e r i e n c e d, l o n g - d i s t a n c e kayakers tackle the West Coast Vancouver Island North Marine Trail, a newly designated route that traces the coastline from Port Hardy past Cape Scott Provincial Park and all the way to Tofino (www. bcmarinetrails.org). After exploring the local waters, kayakers heading north to the spectacular Great Bear Rainforest and Haida Gwaii sail via BC Ferries from Port Hardy’s Bear Cove terminal.

Octopus © Jackie Hildering - www.themarinedetective.com

A million dollar view....

GLEN LYON INN & SUITES Port Hardy Modern Port Hardy Accommodations

with Nature at Its Best!

Diving www.themarinedetective.com

Z

ip up a dry suit, strap on a scuba cylinder and sink below the surface into an incredible marine wonderland. Vancouver Island North is world-renowned for its scuba diving. These cold (around 10°C), clear, current-fed waters are home to an extraordinary diversity of life in jaw-dropping density and colour.

In these rich waters, species often exceed the limits given in field guides and unlike many tropical areas, virtually no surface is left uninhabited. You are truly visiting another world of amazingly mysterious and diverse organisms.

It is common to encounter more than ten species of nudibranch on a single dive. Giant Pacific octopuses and wolf eels might be spotted around their dens. And rockfish may school around you. The rock walls are brightly painted with red

soft coral, multi-hued sponges and vibrant anemones and sea stars.

It’s an underwater photographer’s dreamscape.

Seemingly endless stretches of coastline provide equally endless dive opportunities. Favorite spots in the area include the concentration of dive sites in the Broughton and Blackfish Archipelagos; the gardens of Zeballos; the expansive walls of Browning Pass near God’s Pocket Marine Provincial Park; and the vibrant life of Quatsino Narrows.

Choose to rent gear (dry suits are a must) and join a local operator on guided trips out to prime locations; opt for a live-aboard adventure; or settle into the comfort of a dive resort. Whichever way you get your feet wet in this addictive pastime, you’re sure to want to explore all that this cold-water diver’s paradise has to offer.

44 deluxe rooms with spectacular ocean views Business suites and family rooms | Pub and restaurant on premises | Close to town and ferry terminal Free wireless internet Small meeting room (10-12 people)

DID YOU KNOW: The reason you can’t see to the bottom in these cold, dark waters is because there is so much life! When you can see to the bottom, there is far less plankton which fuels the food web. For more on this see The Marine Detective’s video clip by Googling “The Reason You Can’t See to the Bottom...”

www.glenlyoninn.com 6435 Hardy Bay Rd, Port Hardy

250-949-7115 | 1.877.949.7115 www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

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Accommodation Options Alert Bay Resort

Retreats - Groups- Weddings - Potlatches Whale Watching, Fishing or wildlife viewing; all of our guests receive VIP rates and access to our 34ft yacht Orca ll 390 Poplar Rd, Box 470, Alert Bay, BC (250)974.5457 1.877.974.5457 www.AlertBayResort.com info@alertbayresort.com

Upgraded rooms | Competitive rates Kitchenettes, non-smoking. Fridge microwave & coffee maker in each room. Free WIFI. Cafe, Dining room & Pub. Cold beer & wine store onsite.

1.800.956.3373 | 1.250.956.3373 1817 Campbell Way, Port McNeill www.pmhotels.com

Scotia Bay Resort

Oceanside RV Parking Fully services sites Suite rentals | Boat Moorage 250.949.6484 Fax 250.949.8486 515 Scotia Bay, Port Hardy masales@telus.net www.scotiabayresort.com

Ecoscape Cabins, Port Hardy. Š Boomer Jerritt

Haida-Way Motor Inn

AN OCEAN STORM BED & BREAKFAST Luxury Oceanfront Accommodations with beach access

The Hotel with Heart

YOUR HOSTS

Dave & Michele Andrews TEL: 250.949.9611 CELL: 250.949.0358 www.anoceanstormbb.com | anoceanstormbb@cablerocket.com 5885 Beaver Harbour Rd. Storeys Beach, Port Hardy B.C.

r a ting b e l e C 1964 - 2014

50 Years

NORTH ISLAND

Mention this ad when booking your reservation and receive

10% OFF!

Centrally located in downtown Port Hardy Complimentary WiFi in rooms Microwave, fridge, coffeemaker & cable TV Free extended & oversize vehicle parking Pet friendly | Banquet & meeting rooms 2 blocks from the ocean

www.providenceplace.ca 250-949-8899 | email info@providenceplace.ca

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Escape B & B

Cluxewe Resort

A Natural Wonder on Beautiful North Vancouver Island

Come camping or stay in our fully equipped cottage by the sea and eat in our oceanside cafe.

GET HERE!! Go fly fishing right on our beach, go kayaking, birdwatching, hiking, barbecuing and play in our playground. “ A must do” come to the Cluxewe Cafe. Come enjoy our delicious food, relaxing atmosphere right on the ocean.

Call the Cafe today at 1-250-230-1006.

Cluxewe Resort

A Natural Wonder on Beautiful North Vancouver Island

Book your stay with us today at 1-250-949-0378 Email us at relax@cluxewe.com Check out our website www.cluxewe.com www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

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Regional Dining Options Eat take outorordrive drive thru Eat in, in, take out thru A&W A&W in, take out or EatEat in, take out or Drive thruthru Drive

Something Something Something for Everyone!

Something for Everyone! for everyone! for everyone!

250.949.2345

250.949.2345

8950 Granville Street 250-949-2345 8950 Granville Street 250-949-2345

Thunderbird Mall, Port Hardy 8950 Granville St. Thunderbird Mall, Port Hardy 8950 Granville (Thunderbird Mall) St.

(Thunderbird Mall)

Eat, relax and enjoy Telegraph Cove Resort’s beautiful Killer Whale Café or Old Saltery Pub Great food. Great service. Beautiful view.

Located in the heart of Port Hardy DINING ROOM I LOUNGE I TAKE-OUT TAKE CATERING I BANQUETS I MEETING ROOMS

1.250.928.3155

www.telegraphcoveresort.com

Located on the historic Telegraph Cove boardwalk

Fun & Relaxation Cove

Enjoy the Water?

Surfboard rentals are available.

Check out our largest selection of summer apparel.

9040 GRANVILLE ST. PORT HARDY INN

250-949-8381 More than Chinese food! We make our own burgers, homemade soups, appies, wings and char broiled steaks.

Find us on our Fac ebook Page: S eto’s W ok & G rill

7053B Market St, Port Hardy

250.949.7553

The Hobby Nook Need something to do?

We have craft & art supplies!

Have your vacation photo on a mug or shirt!

We are your one stop shop for all your custom Port Hardy souvenirs.

5685 Hardy Bay Road, Port Hardy

250.949.6544

Something for Everyone.

Great daily lunch and dinner specials 7800 Market Street, Port Hardy BC 250.949.7811 16 | www.northislandgazette.com

Cafe Guido & Co.

Enjoy joy our Delicious Selection of Espressos, Teas Teas, Italian Sodas, Paninis, Salads, Scones & Cheesecakes.

Find additional seating as well as Local Guides, AwardWinning Books, Unique Gifts & Clothing downstairs in The Book Nook.

And visit us upstairs at the West Coast Community Craft Shop to browse our Arts & Crafts Gallery featuring Local Artisans. www.cafeguido.com | 250-949-9808 Street, Port Hardy BC V0N 2P0 7135 Market Street

Free WIFI

the book �

Cafe Guido

IT’S BEEN A LONG DAY...

you deserve a little pampering.

Quatse Salmon Stewardship Centre, Port Hardy © Boomer Jerritt

Drop anchor in Port Hardy & refresh at

Fun & Relaxation With a wealth of recreational, entertaining, and educational alternatives, the towns of Vancouver Island North offer numerous options for go-yourown-way activities.

C

heck Visitor Centres, coffee shop bulletin boards or the “Hot Spots” section of the North Island Gazette for the latest on festivals, concerts, special events, exhibits and other fun activities.

Visiti: www.vancouverislandnorth. ca/events.

Pamper yourself with our full service menu: Facials - Manicures - Pedicures - Hair essentials Waxing - Spray Tans & Tanning beds

250-949-5905 Creative Edge Salon & Spa ~ 7035 Market Street, Port Hardy

Shop for art, crafts, fashion and edible goodies (like locally made smoked and candied salmon).

Galleries, retail outlets and museum gift shops sell the splendid, nature-inspired work of local artisans and First Nations artists – jewelers, carvers, painters, sculptors, photographers and textile workers included.

Enjoy a drop-in workout, yoga class and much more at recreation centres in the region. Pamper yourself with a spa treatment or a massage from skilled bodyworkers.

Make a splash at the indoor pool in Port Hardy, then relax in the hot tub and sauna. Swim in Port McNeill’s outdoor pool from May through August. Or take a refreshing dip in the ocean or one of our many cold, crystal clear lakes and rivers.

Plan a tour of museums found in Alert Bay, Coal Harbour, Port Hardy, Port McNeill, Port Alice, Quatsino, Telegraph Cove, Sointula and even tiny Echo Bay, each with their own unique focus and stories to share.

Details on page 20.

Experience First Nations culture and traditional dances (July and August only) at the ‘Namgis Big House in Alert Bay. Just down the hill is the U’mista Cultural Centre and its world-renowned collection of potlatch regalia.

Learn about marine mammal conservation and the diverse ecology of Johnstone Strait at Telegraph Cove’s Whale Interpretive Centre. Children’s games and interactive displays make this a popular spot for youngsters.

Check out Port Hardy’s Quatse River Hatchery and the Salmon Stewardship Centre to view and learn more about the lifecycle of these long-distance swimmers and their importance to the local economy.

www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

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Travelling www.drivebc.ca BC ROAD REPORT

1.800.550.4997

A

Alert Bay © Boomer Jerritt

ll roads on the North Island lead to Hwy 19. Routes into communities like Sayward, Port Alice and Coal Harbour are modern, paved thoroughfares. Other wilderness retreats and camping areas are only accessible via gravel logging roads. Visibility along these often very dusty roads can be restricted, so extreme caution is recommended. Remember: Logging trucks always have the right of way. See the Resource Road User Safety Guide at www. bcforestsafe.org/files/tk_pdfs/gde_resrd.pdf.

Ferries and water taxis are vital transportation links. Sointula (25 minute sailing) and Alert Bay (45 minute sailing) are a short ferry ride from Port McNeill. Port Hardy’s Bear Cove terminal is the gateway for sailings to Prince Rupert and connections to the Central Coast. Contact www.BCFerries.com, or phone 1-888-2233779. If you are looking to charter a boat to a coastal destination check at the Visitor Centres for assistance in selecting a water taxi service provider.

For more than 8000 years, Canada’s First Nations people have shared this wild coastal region with eagles, black bears, orca and salmon. After a long period of cultural repression, ancient traditions are again thriving as the Kwakwaka’wakw First Nations preserve and celebrate their culture through art, dance, music, language and a sustainable day-to-day relationship with the natural world.

When travelling by water, Channel 16 is strictly reserved for emergency communications.

Weather information is available by calling 250-949-7148, or by tuning into Channels 21B or Wx 1, 2, or 3 on your VHF radio. Harbour Authorities, marina resorts, and fuel docks monitor Channel 66.

First Nations

A

lert Bay on Cormorant Island is internationally renowned for its storytelling, summertime dance performances and the potlatch treasures housed inside the must-see U’mista Cultural Centre. The world’s tallest totem pole stands vigil outside the ‘Namgis Big House. Take a canoe trip or enjoy a salmon barbeque with First Nations guides. And visit an oceanfront graveyard filled with majestic memorial poles (please view respectfully from the road). Enjoy the colourful displays of traditional and contemporary artwork in many locations throughout the village – keep your eye out for a favourite piece to add to your personal collection.

Fort Rupert on the southern outskirts of Port Hardy is home to the Kwakiutl First Nation. Take a walking tour of this friendly enclave by the sea and watch for internationally renowned carvers creating magnificent art from chunks of timber.

Climb aboard in Port Hardy for a culturally inspired adventure to the world’s fastest navigable tidal rapids where your guide will help you visualize this area as it was years ago through stories of their traditional territory. Or launch your marine based cultural adventure from Telegraph Cove to connect with the past, present, and future of the Kwakwaka’wakw people on a tour to the Village of Alert Bay, or Yukusam (Hanson) Island.

Nakwakto Rapids Tours Guided by native storytellers and seasoned skippers, visit the world’s fastest navigable tidal rapids and explore coastal wilderness.

Departing from the Art Shack, Seagate Dock Port Hardy

www.nakwaktorapidstours.com 250-230-3574 A GNN Marine Service www.gnnmarine.com

18 | www.northislandgazette.com

Port Hardy airport has scheduled daily service to Vancouver and beyond. Charter companies in Port McNeill, Alert Bay and Port Hardy offer scenic flights and service to smaller communities. Seaplanes and helicopters can be booked for flightseeing trips while also dropping off passengers at wilderness fishing lodges.

Greyhound’s daily scheduled bus service connects the North Island with mid and south Island destinations with the main terminal located in Port Hardy (250-949-6300) www. greyhound.ca. During July and August IslandLink offers express bus service every other day www. islandlinkbus.com. Local transit links North Island communities and is wheelchair accessible.

For scheduling and fare information, contact Mount Waddington Transit (250-956-3151) www. transitbc.com/regions/mtw.

DID YOU KNOW: It only takes 2 ½ hours to drive from the Comox Valley to Port McNeill. The communities of Vancouver Island North are closer than you might think!

San Josef Heritage Park Link River Regional Park www.rdmw.bc.ca

250.288.3682

250.956.3301

Marble River Provincial Park www.bcparks.ca Port Alice RV & Campground 1201 Marine Drive

250.284.3422

PORT HARDY

Georgie Lake www.sitesandtrailsbc.ca Port Hardy RV Resort & Campground www.porthardyrvresort.com

855.949.8188

Quatse River Campground www.quatsecampground.ca

866.949.2395

Scotia Bay Resort www.scotiabayresort.com

250.949.6484

Seven Hills Golf & RV Park

250.949.9818

PORT McNEILL

Stryker Bay RV Park stryker@cablerocket.com

888.839.8022

Wildwoods Campsite www.wildwoodscampsite.com

250.949.6753

Broughton Strait Campground broughtonstrait@hotmail.com

250.956.3224

Cedar Park Resort & Golfing www. cedarparkresort-rv.com

250.902.9346

Cluxewe Resort www.cluxeweresort.com

250.949.0378

SOINTULA

Nahwitti Lake www.sitesandtrailsbc.ca

othing says summer like tent camping. Vancouver Island North caters to those who enjoy sleeping under the stars with options ranging from full-service family friendly spots to basic wilderness sites. Campgrounds in the region are provided by a mix of operators: forest companies, the Regional District of Mount Waddington, BC Provincial Parks, the Ministry of Natural Resource Operations, and private owners. The list here is only a partial summary of regional recreation sites. Please check at local Visitor Centres for further information.

TELEGRAPH COVE

Cape Scott Provincial Park www.bcparks.ca | www.capescottpark.com

N

WEST COAST

250.974.5213

WINTER HARBOUR

Alert Bay Campground www.alertbay.ca

Clint Beek (Keogh Lake) www.sitesandtrailsbc.ca

250 956-3301

Harmony Shores Campground www.sointulainfo.ca

250.973.6793

Alder Bay Resort www.alderbayresort.com

888.956.4117

Telegraph Cove Resort www.telegraphcoveresort.com

800.200.4665

Telegraph Cove Marina & RV Park www.telegraphcove.ca

844.835.2683

Cape Scott Provincial Park www.bcparks.ca Raft Cove Provincial Park www.bcparks.ca San Josef Heritage Park

250.282.3682

Kwaksistah Campground www.rdmw.bc.ca

250.956.3301

Outpost at Winter Harbour www.winterharbour.ca

250.969.4333

Winter Harbour Marina & RV www.winterharbourlodge.ca

250.969.4293

Schoen Lake Provincial Park www.bcparks.ca Vernon Lake www.sitesandtrailsbc.ca Woss Lake www.sitesandtrailsbc.ca Lower Klaklakama www.sitesandtrailsbc.ca

Ida Lake www.sitesandtrailsbc.ca

Atluck Lake Via Atluck Rd, off the main road to Zeballos

Elk Creek Forest Recreation Site

250.282.0018

Kelsey Bay RV & Campground

250.282.3762

Sayward Valley Resort Resort Office

250.282.3204

Village Centre Campground Info at Village Office

250.282.5512

ZEBALLOS & ZEBALLOS ROAD

Kathleen Lake www.sitesandtrailsbc.ca

SAYWARD

Bere Point www.rdmw.bc.ca

Bonanza Lake www.sitesandtrailsbc.ca WOSS / NIMPKISH

PORT ALICE

HOLBERG

ALERT BAY

Camping & Recreation Sites

Anutz Lake On River Main Rd, off the main road to Zeballos Cevallos Campsite www.zeballos.com

250.761.4229

Fair Harbour Campsite 29km NW of Zeballos, via logging road Resolution Campsite 4km from Zeballos, on Fair Harbour Road Swan Song In Zeballos Zeballos RV Park www.zeballos.com

250.761.4229

www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

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U’mista Cultural Centre in Alert Bay. © Boomer Jerritt

Museums & Cultural Centres Cultural explorers can dig deep into the ancient, recent and living histories of Vancouver Island North when visiting a surprisingly diverse range of cultural treasure boxes packed with colorful displays and exhibits.

G

o back to the source at the Port Hardy Museum and Archives, which houses artifacts from a local archeological dig at Bear Cove – the oldest known site of human habitation on Vancouver Island (circa 5850 BCE). Exhibits change regularly while shining thematic lights on First Nations history, the Hudson’s Bay Company and European settlement.

The U’mista Cultural Centre in Alert Bay is respected far and wide as one of Canada’s finest First Nations museums with its unparalleled collection of potlatch regalia. Modeled after a big house, it is dedicated to preserving the heritage of the Kwakwaka’wakw. The gift shop features superb jewelry, carvings, textiles and more.

Forestry has been a leading commercial activity on the North Island since European settlers arrived in the 1860s. Based in a sturdy log house, the Port McNeill Heritage Museum tracks local history with archival photos, exhibits and vintage logging equipment.

20 | www.northislandgazette.com

An easy walk from the ferry landing, the Sointula Museum is home to artifacts, archival records and displays related to the colourful history of Malcolm Island. A primary focus is on the Finnish immigrants who arrived here in the 1880s to launch a short-lived utopian commune.

Boaters heading northwest across Johnstone Strait and Blackfish Sound are advised to linger in Echo Bay and visit Billy Procter’s Museum and Gift Shop. The author and life-long area resident has collected fascinating memorabilia from the logging, fishing and trapping eras.

Telegraph Cove’s family friendly W hale Interpretive Centre is dedicated to raising public awareness about the fragile ecosystem and migrator y inhabitants of Johnstone Strait. Highlights include interactive displays, a kid’s corner, educational films and the skeletal remains of whales, dolphins and other wildlife.

Discover the rich history of Coal Harbour as a whaling station and military base thanks to resident Joel Eilertsen, who welcomes visitors to his collection in the town’s old Air Force hangar.

Artifacts and archival material are stored and displayed in the Quatsino Museum across from the government dock. It’s open daily in July and August in the early afternoon, and throughout the year during weekend lunch hours. Email curator Gwen Hansen for a private showing: quatsino.museum@recn.ca.

Take a look back at the unique story of a remote coastal community. The Winter Harbour historical photo collection is open to the public in the museum room near the Government Wharf Monday, Wednesday and Friday 9 AM – 1 PM or by appointment 250 969-4331.

Learn about the perilous journey of salmon and their incredible survival stories at the Quatse Salmon Stewardship Centre in Port Hardy.

Located beside a working hatchery, the centre features interactive exhibits, games and a family theatre.

The Port Alice Heritage Centre, above the fire hall, offers a look at the town’s intriguing history. It’s also the site of the Visitor Information Centre and a gift shop that sells locally made art, crafts and greeting cards.

Whale Interpretive Centre © Boomer Jerritt

© Boomer Jerritt

Scarlet Ibis Holberg Restaurant & Pub & Winter Harbour Last stop going in ... first stop coming choes and evidence of boom times in a classic west-coast rainforest environment can be found on journeys to what was once the site of the world’s largest floating logging camp. Holberg is an hour’s drive northwest of Port Hardy and the last stop before Cape Scott Provincial Park. The gravel logging road that takes you there is part of the fun, especially when stopping at the Shoe Tree – started as a joke by a local resident and now a Vancouver Island legend thanks to the hundreds of boots, sandals and shoes on its trunk and slung across its branches.

The village is worth a long linger, and not strictly to enjoy the pub food and welcoming ambience at the renowned Scarlet Ibis. Pick up provisions for the hiking, surfing or kayaking adventures ahead. And visit Ronning’s Garden, a circa 1910 homestead on the old San Josef Wagon Road whose vast and exotic grounds sit in the middle of the rainforest. This unique garden, started by pioneering settler Bernt Ronning, complete with monkey puzzle trees and fascinating plants from around the world, almost disappeared when he left his homestead, but has now been restored.

Outdoor adventure is top priority for most visitors. Cape Scott Provincial Park is an unspoiled wonderland with its deserted beaches, sculpted coastline and marathon hiking trails. Raft Cove Provincial Park attracts daytrippers and campers who set up their tents on the sandy beach. And please keep it quiet, but surfers who prize seclusion and best-kept-secret beachfronts have rediscovered Raft Cove’s big waves.

From Holberg, the gravel road ends at Winter Harbour. This tiny and historic fishing village offers safe year-round anchorage, a seaside boardwalk and access to oceanfront hikes along Botel Park Trail and out to the prime beachcombing at Grant Bay. Expect to head home with harbour photos of the playful sea otters that pop their curious heads above water and float on their backs. Kayakers will also put their waterproof digital cameras to good use when exploring the many paddling adventures available in Quatsino Sound via a Winter Harbour launch.

out for Cape Scott Provincial Park.

Good food, good friends & Good times for the entire family Open Tuesday through Saturday 12pm - 10pm Sunday & Monday 12pm - 9pm 250.288.3386

Downtown Holberg

Winter Harbour. © Boomer Jerritt

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www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

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By logging road or boat, outdoor adventurers can access prime West Coast recreation sites such as Side Bay, Gooding Cove, Harvey Cove, Brooks Peninsula, Winter Harbour, Alice Lake, Link River, Victoria Lake and more!

Activities      

Fishing Kayaking Mountain Biking Hiking Golf Scuba Diving

Services            

Accommodations & Campground Restaurants & Groceries Boat Launch & Fuel Services Gas Station & Fishing Bank & ATM Post Office Liquor Store Tourism Centre Fishing & Sightseeing Charters Health Centre Library Free Sani-Dump

Photos by Darrell McIntosh

22 | www.northislandgazette.com

www.portalice.ca info@portalice.ca 250-284-3391

Walkout Island, Port Alice Waterfront © Darrell McIntosh

Port Alice Gateway to the Wild and Wonderful Coast WWW . PORTALICE . CA

VILLAGE OFFICE 250.284.3391

D

o-it-yourself adventurers find peace, lovely west-coast scenery and crowd-free access to the great outdoors in Port Alice. Perched on a pretty hillside facing the Neroutsos Inlet, this thriving community is the most southerly access point to Quatsino Sound and invites kayakers, scuba divers and charter fishing crews bound for the open Pacific.

The town is a base camp for expeditions via boat or logging road to such remote getaways as Side Bay, Gooding Cove, Harvey Cove, Brooks Peninsula and Klaskino Inlet. Inquire at the Tourism Centre beside the town office for directions before heading out on the back roads.

Public launch facilities in town offer ocean access for travelers towing their own boat or kayak. Or get out on the water with a charter fishing or wildlife-viewing guide.

Link River and Spruce Bay campgrounds at nearby Alice and Victoria Lakes are both favorite spots for freshwater fishing and outdoor recreation. The newly developed Alice Lake Loop Recreational Corridor provides easy access to view geological wonders like Devil’s Bath and the Eternal Fountain, part of the vast stretches

of limestone that make Vancouver Island North The Tourism & Heritage Center offers information for travelers, a small gift shop stocked with prime caving country. souvenirs made by local artisans, and a wellWilderness hiking is at its best along the Marble documented look into Port Alice’s past. The River Trail leading to Bear Falls and Emerald town’s history dates back to the opening of Pools. Access the trail at Marble River Park and a pulp mill circa World War I. It became the campsite along scenic Hwy 30 to Port Alice. province’s first instant municipality in 1965 when In town, stroll the Sea Walk, a wheelchair- the town was relocated from the mill site to its accessible pathway that follows the community’s present location a short distance north of the mill coastline. Have a picnic, hike the short distance along Neroutsos Inlet. Today it is home to many to Walk-out Island when the tide is low, and don’t of the workers at Neucel Specialty Cellulose Pulp forget your binoculars! Hundreds of species of Mill, one of the North Island’s leading employers. birds visit Neroutsos Inlet throughout the year. 2015 is the 50th anniversary of ‘new’ Port Alice, These same waters are home to orca, humpback, watch the online events calendar for more details and grey whales, seals, sea otters, California and on the celebration at www.vancouverislandnorth. ca/events.

Steller sea lions, and migrating salmon.

Cyclists of all skill levels tackle the trails of the Rumble Mountain. Golfers head for the Port Alice Golf and Country Club, a challenging ninehole course set against glorious mountain and ocean vistas; it once earned recognition from Ripley’s Believe It Or Not! as the only course in the world requiring golfers to play around or over an Anglican church (which has since been removed).

Visitors to Port Alice will find beautiful and modern B&B’s, vacation rental homes, a hotel, and a full-service campground. Services in town include a gas station, grocery, convenience and liquor stores, a bank, community centre, two restaurants and a new marina with moorage.

www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

23

Don’t leave town without it!

The great thing about having a Save-onMore card is that its benefits travel with you. But don’t worry if you don’t have a card. Just sign up in store and start taking advantage of the benefits right away.

Thunderbird Mall Port Hardy 250-949-6455 Hours: 8am-9pm everyday

www.overwaitea.com B.C.’s very own 24 | www.northislandgazette.com

food people.

www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

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Alert Bay Ecological Park © Heather Nelson-Smith

Alert Bay Home of the Killer Whale WWW . ALERTBAY . CA

VISITOR CENTRE 250.974.5024

A

lert Bay is a rare, precious and unique First Nation cultural tourism experience. Said to be one of the last authentic fishing villages on Canada’s west coast, it’s easily accessible via a scenic 35-minute ferry ride from Port McNeill.

Alert Bay offers visitors museums, art galleries, a bustling marina, friendly locals and cozy accommodations and restaurants set within an unparalleled northern Pacific wilderness environment. The town centre, with its colorful heritage buildings dating back to the late 1800’s, sits on the sheltered western coastline of Cormorant Island. ‘Yalis is home to the ‘Namgis of the Kwakwaka’wakw (Kwakwala speaking people).

U’mista cultural centre, an internationally-renowned cultural centre, showcases the famed “Potlatch Collection” of ceremonial regalia, confiscated from the Kwakwaka’wakw in 1922 and reclaimed from various institutions and private collections around the world. U’mista is a great place to start a remarkable First Nation cultural experience.

Don’t miss the Alert Bay Library-Museum located at 116 Fir Street. The museum offers additional First Nation pieces and artifacts found during the early settlement of Alert Bay. Towering above the traditional Big House in ‘Yalis is the world’s tallest totem pole, carved in two sections by six Kwakwaka’wakw artists (it was originally 53m/173 feet, but the top 10 feet of the pole fell to the ground during a storm in 2007). Watch a traditional dance performance by the T’sasala Cultural Group in the Big House, the only time the Big House is open for viewing. Regular performances take place Thursday

26 | www.northislandgazette.com

© Boomer Jerritt

to Saturday in July and until the third weekend in August. Visit the original ‘Namgis Burial Grounds to see memorial and other totem poles (please view respectfully from the road only) as well as other Totem Poles and Archways spread throughout the Island. Join in unique adventures such as canoe trips, salmon barbecues and island tours provided by local guides.

Cormorant Island has more than 10 km (6 miles) of hiking and

biking trails. The Ecological Park above town features a marshland boardwalk (a favorite spot for bald eagles and other birds) and an easy forest trail network marked with interpretive signage. Embark from the community of Alert Bay for a whale watching, fishing or kayak expedition. Steep climbs may make parts of the island a challenge, so it is recommended that visitors bring their vehicles.

Namgis Awak’was along the Alert Bay waterfront © Boomer Jerritt

Alert Bay Big House © Boomer Jerritt

Sail with the Whales ➤Whale Watching, Fishing or wildlife viewing; all of our guests receive VIP rates and access to our 34ft yacht Orca ll ➤ Edible Garden for all the guests to enjoy ➤ Hanging Chairs ➤ Authentic Smoke House ➤ Easy Access to Historic Ecological Nature Trail

Eco Friendly Tours

Our tours depart from Alert Bay on Cormorant Island, and from Alder Bay Resort located on Vancouver Island near Port McNeill and Telegraph Cove.

Our Services: Weddings & Elopements, Retreats, Groups, Potlatches, Keys to the Cabins All of our 14 Cabins are Built for Privacy. They include a kitchen and provide a truly west coast ambiance with breathtaking ocean view.

390 Poplar Rd, Box 470, Alert Bay, BC

www.AlertBayResort.com Email: info@alertbayresort.com (250) 974.5457 Toll Free:1.877.974.5457

Our highlights include a Devonshire Tea served on board since 1986!

Seasmoke Whale Watching 250.974.5225 | 1.800.668.ORCA www.seasmokewhalewatching.com/highlights www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

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Alert Bay Discover our World Arts | Culture | Heritage U’Mista Cultural Centre Alert Bay Visitor Centre and Art Gallery Alert Bay Museum Big House & World’s Tallest Totem Pole ‘Namgis Burial Ground with stand of totems

Activities

Whale watching Fishing Nature Trails Traditional Canoes Tennis Courts

Health

Hospital and Health Centre Personal Care Services

Business Full service Marina Accommodations Hotels, B&B’s Cabins Campground Bike Rentals Grocery store | Pharmacy Restaurants | Pubs Liquor Store | Post Office Churches | Banking | Hair Salon

For general inquiries: Alert Bay Visitor Centre

For your cultural planning contact: U’Mista Cultural Centre Phone: (250) 974-5403 Fax: (250) 974-5499 Toll Free: 1-800-690-8222 E-mail: info@umista.ca www.umista.ca 28 | www.northislandgazette.com

Phone: (250) 974-5024 Fax: (250) 974-5026 E-mail: info@alertbay.ca

www.alertbay.ca

Quatsino © Boomer Jerritt

WWW . QUATSINO . ORG

Coal Harbour R

oad trips on the North Island are a treat for those who relish leisurely, spontaneous explorations that deliver memorable vistas, dozens of digital snapshots and many surprising rewards. One such detour off the highway just south of Port Hardy leads to Coal Harbour, a marine hub providing access to the fertile fishing grounds of Quatsino Sound.

Over the last century Coal Harbour has been a mining town, military base and whaling station. Today it’s the perfect launch point for fishing charters, boaters, kayakers and campers heading into the scenic coastal waters and old-growth forests of Vancouver Island North’s wilderness areas. Explore Coal Harbour itself to learn the history and meet some of the locals, among whom is a growing community of artisans.

Step back in time and take a look into the history of Coal Harbour. There is a small space at the Aircab float plane hangar, near the marina, that is filled with a private collection of local artifacts from the town’s logging and whaling periods as well as its time during the Second World War as a Royal Canadian Air Force base. On the grounds is the mammoth 6m/20 ft jawbone of a blue whale – evidence that Canada’s last whaling station operated here until the mid-1960s.

Something old is new again in Coal Harbour. The Hornsby Steam Crawler, a one-of-a-kind, custom build steam crawler tractor has returned to the community for public display. This unique piece of machinery was inspired by the Yukon Gold Rush and customized for use in the forest industry on the British Columbia Coast.

Boaters get provisions, coffee and sandwiches at the Whale’s Reach community store. Quatsino First Nations operate a marina in Coal Harbour that has serviced moorage, public washrooms, showers and a laundromat.

I

n 1894 Norwegian colonists arrived in Quatsino Sound aboard the steamship Mischief, with shared dreams of a prosperous life in this remote North Island wilderness. They chose an idyllic stretch of sunny shoreline and began work to build their new community. The land, forest and sea provided an income for these hardy souls and the town soon became a central hub for the Quatsino Sound area, providing goods and services to support the influx of settlers and job seekers.

Nestled near the government wharf is historic St. Olaf’s Anglican Church.

Dating back to 1897 and originally built as a small one room school, it is one of the oldest buildings still in use on northern Vancouver Island. The ‘new’ Quatsino Elementary School was built in 1933 overlooking the government wharf, is one of the last one-room schools in BC. With a minimum enrollment of just six students, it offers a unique and fantastic educational opportunity. The community’s “Bergh Cove Organic Schoolyard Garden” now shares this site and provides fresh produce during the harvest season.

The Quatsino Museum & Archives, just across from the government dock, provides free high-speed internet access and light snacks in addition to offering a glimpse at Quatsino’s rich and diverse 118-year history.

Today the tiny hamlet of Quatsino, which is still accessible only by water and air, is a quiet place where change comes slowly. With just 8 km of gravel road connecting homes, fishing lodges and retreats that stretch single file along the shoreline, residents and visitors alike take pleasure in a breath of fresh air as they step back to a simpler way of life still linked to the land, forest and sea amidst the solitude and natural beauty of Quatsino Sound.

Come & Explore the Beauty of North Vancouver Island TwOceans Apartments Coal Harbour, BC 2 bedroom apartments available Oceanviews - Newly Renovated

250-949-8855

twoceansbc@gmail.com | www.twoceans.com

Come stay with us....

Whales Reach Lodge is located in Coal Harbour on the north end of Vancouver Island, 15km west of Port Hardy.

The Lodge offers a variety of fishing, including Salmon, Halibut, Snapper and Ling Cod.

WHALE’S REACH LODGE

1-604-315-9420 or 1-250-949-6681 General Store | 6 Lodging Rooms | Restaurant | Ice Machine | Self Serve Laundry Facilities

salmon.fishing@whalesreach.com www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

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© Steven Fines – www.natureone.ca

Port Hardy Live the Adventure WWW . VISITPORTHARDY . COM VISITOR CENTRE 1.866.427.3901

E

asy access to the great outdoors, creature comforts, shopping and dining, cooperative and First Nations art galleries, plenty of accommodation options and ancient archeological finds. It’s all available in Vancouver Island North’s largest centre (population: 4,000), a friendly town with developing cultural and eco-tourism industries that sits pretty at the very edge of the coastal wilderness.

pleasure craft. Orcas, humpbacks and dolphins frolic offshore in Queen Charlotte Strait while longer treks out to sea head to grizzly bear country in Smith and Knight Inlets along the mainland coast.

Pa r k . Cu r i o u s a d v e n t u r e r s meanwhile, can get a taste of an eerie subterranean world at Devil’s Bath, one geological wonder in a series of them included in the Alice Lake Loop tour.

BC Ferries’ famous “Inside Passage” long-haul sailing to Prince Rupert on the mainland arrives and departs from nearby Bear Cove, as do summeronly sailings on the “Discovery Coast” connector route. The Inside Passage journey was recently rated as one of the most beautiful ferry trips in the world by the discerning editors of Travel+Leisure magazine. Port Hardy is also the main departure point for water taxis and land shuttles destined for Cape Scott Provincial Park’s magnificent North Coast Trail.

Also nearby is the big-wave surfing at Raft Cove, world-class scuba diving at God’s Pocket Provincial Marine Park, and freshwater fishing in local lakes and river systems. Coal Harbour, just 20 minutes away by car, provides boaters and kayakers with a convenient launch point for trips to the wild west coast via Quatsino Sound. A bumpy ride of less than an hour past the village of Holberg leads to the windswept, see-forever beaches of Cape Scott Provincial

Another pleasurable option is to simply hang out in Port Hardy and relish the myriad of diversions found within town limits. Picnic with the family on stretches of sand at Storey’s Beach. Shop for locally produced art, crafts, and seafood (the town is famous for its smoked and candied salmon).

Snap pictures of the chainsaw carvings at Carrot Park. Thrill to stock car and motocross races in the summer. Step back into the past at the Port Hardy Museum

“Live the Adventure” is Port Hardy’s motto, and many ferry passengers wisely book rooms and explore this remote yet civilized part of the world for a few fascinating days before or after their sailings. Land-based adventurers discover hiking, caving and wildlife such as bald eagles and black bears, the latter frequently seen grazing alongside local roads and wandering the banks of the Quatse River. Wildlife-watching daytrips depart from a bustling town marina packed with fishing vessels and visiting

30 | www.northislandgazette.com

and Archives. Check out the work of local artists at the cooperative art gallery. Or take a pleasant, forest-shaded riverside stroll from the marina to the Quatse Salmon Stewardship Centre, an interpretive exhibition space and hatchery rolled into one modern facility.

Totem poles dotted throughout Port Hardy are a tribute to the people who have lived off the resources of land and sea here for over 8,000 years. Today’s Kwakiutl First Nation resides in Fort Rupert, a few minutes south of town with its colourful murals, totems, cemetery, and white shell beach.

Internationally renowned carvers demonstrate their skills, crack jokes and share stories at the Copper Maker Gallery, a favorite stop for art collectors.

The town’s roots are saluted annually during FILOMI Days on the third weekend in July. FILOMI stands for ‘fishing-logging-mining,’ and its namesake festival has become Port Hardy’s signature summer event. The festivities include a salmon derby, boat-

building contest, street hockey and volleyball tournaments, the Tri-Port Dragon Boat Society Regatta, a parade, and spectacular fireworks display. Summer gets underway in June with Oceans Day. In the fall, costumed kids spill out on to Market Street for trick-or-treating during the Costume Crawl, while grinning jack-o’-lanterns and a haunted house highlight family friendly Halloween fun during the Pumpkin Patch Walk. And Christmas is heralded with a Santa Claus parade in early December.

Hiking is one of Port Hardy’s most popular pastimes, and there are trails galore for all fitness levels in town and within a short drive. The newest is the Fort Rupert Trail, which follows an ancient First Nations path from Bear Cove Road to Storey’s Beach; the hour-long one-way ramble winds through the forest, across a boardwalk and alongside a sparkling lake. Far more rugged and challenging is the 11 km out-and-back Tex Lyon Trail, which can be accessed from Storey’s Beach. The Marble River

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Exploring sea life at Storey’s Beach in Port Hardy. © Boomer Jerritt

...cont’d from previous page. trail off the road to Port Alice offers an easy hike out to salmon-spawning viewing areas at Bear Falls. The Nahwitti Trail near Holberg is another gentle route through old-growth giants to Nahwitti Lake. And day hikers get a teaser of the marathon hiking possibilities in Cape Scott Provincial Park by driving west past the Shoe Tree to the park’s trailhead and walking the 2.5 km out to breathtaking San Josef Bay, the trail takes about 45 minutes on a well groomed trail to get to the beach where you will walk out onto a huge stretch of white sand. The trail to San Josef Bay is accessible for high clearance “BOB” style strollers and power assisted wheelchairs equipped for gravel trails with some sloping sections.

The staff at the Visitor Centre is happy to assist with information on local attractions and activities. It’s open year-round in the heart of town on Market Street. Make your choice here from a diverse slate of accommodations that includes hotels, B&Bs, cabins, cottages, hostels and campgrounds.

As a local business we support local people and local business.

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North Island

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- Internationally Recognized - Nationally Supported 32 | www.northislandgazette.com

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North Island

Serving the Above: Grizzly bears on the mainland coast, tours depart from Port Hardy. © Boomer Jerritt

+ LOCALS KNOW: To check out the “Hot Spots” feature in every issue of the North Island Gazette newspaper, distributed weekly on Thursday’s, for a listing of upcoming events and activities happening in North Island communities.

For all your real estate needs… call Merrilee “I’ll travel the island for you” www.merrileetognela.com

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Five minutes from BC Ferries | Clean, safe & family friendly environment www.porthardyrvresort.com Toll Free:sites 1-855-949-8118 Many easy pull through 8080 Goodspeed Road, Porttenting Hardy, British Columbia Beautifully treed area

North Coast Trail Shuttle Cape Scott Water Taxi ONE STOP LAND & WATER TRANSPORTATION.

Free hot showers and firewood Laundry facilities A scenic 9 hole course nested in the NorthBC IslandFerries forest and rated as one of BC’s Five minutes from best 9 hole courses.

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Port Hardy to the Cape Scott North Coast Trail North Coast Trail Shuttle runs from May 1 – Sept.15 Cells: 250-902-8208 • 250-902-8202

www.northcoasttrailshuttle.com

Hills Goodspeed British Seven Columbia • 8080 Par 35 rating 68.7/slope Road, 128 • Port RV sitesHardy, - full hook-up Golf & Country Club • Pro Shop | Restaurant (fully licensed) • Driving range Power cart rentals | Club rentals Take Port Alice Hwy turnoff, only 2 minutes away.

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PORT HARDY Rugged, rich, resilient.

Photos, top clockwise: Kwakiutl canoe at Fort Rupert, kayaking at Storey’s Beach, surf and camping trip at Grant Bay, float plane scenic flight, Hardy Bay. Family Fishing Wharf, Salmon fishing in Hardy Bay, Bald Eagle at Beaver Harbour.

Photography: Angela Smith, Fish Photo: Leisure Suit Charters

PORT HARDY VISITOR CENTRE 7250 Market Street, Port Hardy BC 34 | www.northislandgazette.com

VISITOR INFO LINE: LIVE AGENTS 1-866-427-3901

WWW.VISITPORTHARDY.COM #visitporthardy

PORT HARDY Campbell River

Vancouver Island Nanaimo

Victoria

Live the Adventure...

Across time immemorial, Pacific storms have moved the sands of hidden beaches and brought life-giving rain to evergreen forests. The summer sun fills the raincoast with a flurry of life, culminating in the crescendo of the great Pacific Salmon runs which fill the rivers and the waters of Hardy Bay. These salmon and all the creatures that depend on them demonstrate an intricate, interconnected natural beauty seldom seen in the modern world.

Hardy people inhabit this remote place; from the descendants of ancient First Nations civilizations to the great grandchildren of Hudson Bay Company traders to the current day residents who live here working the land, sea and commerce in a manner steeped in tradition. Visit Port Hardy. Live the adventure, see the tradition: dress warm, pick up a lunch and step into a rugged, rich, resilient world that will live in your thoughts forever.

PORT HARDY VISITOR CENTRE: 7250 MARKET STREET, PORT HARDY - WWW.VISITPORTHARDY.COM Hike Cape Scott & the North Coast Trail, sport fish, wildlife view, boat, scuba, experience culture & more! www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

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Harbour, Port McNeill © Boomer Jerritt

Port McNeill Gateway to the Broughton Archipelago WWW . PORTMCNEILL . NET VISITOR CENTRE 1.888.956.3131

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his friendly, unpretentious and welcoming ecotourism capital is two hours north of Campbell River and four hours drive from BC Ferries terminals in Nanaimo. That’s not far given that the town provides direct access to the pristine channels, mazy waterways and sheltered moorages of the world-renowned Broughton Archipelago Provincial Marine Park.

Better still, its central location on Vancouver Island’s northeast coastline makes it a great spot for spontaneous and unplanned jaunts around the region as a whole, especially with Alert Bay and Sointula short sails away from Port McNeill’s own BC Ferries dock.

One favorite destination in town is the seawall and newly expanded harbour area. Drink in the ocean views here along with a cup of baristaprepared coffee as bald eagles circle above a busy waterfront dotted with pleasure craft, fishing boats and float planes. The marina is especially busy from May to September as boaters pull in to refuel and pick up provisions before heading back out into one of the planet’s most beautiful and pristine maritime environments.

The postcard Johnstone Strait and Broughton Archipelago, with dozens of small, undeveloped islands, is world-renowned for whale watching, sea kayaking and scuba diving. Each of these pastimes is expertly served by an array of guides, suppliers and rental operations – all of them providing ready access to the region’s spectacular offshore wildlife. The area is famed for killer whales, humpback whales, Pacific white-sided dolphins, Steller sea lions, Minke whales, harbour seals, Dall’s porpoise and a who’s

Haida-Way Motor Inn

Many visitors settle in for multi-night stays by booking local accommodations, pitching tents or parking RVs, then checking out the town’s amenities. Learn about the area’s ancient and contemporary history at the Port McNeill Heritage Museum, which houses a rich collection of artifacts inside a rustic log building. Catch a movie or concert at the Gate House Theatre (check for schedule). Play a round or two with an ocean view at the par-three golf course. Dine on wide array of seafood or a range of ethnic fare – Greek, Mexican, Italian and Chinese included. Or take photos of friends and loved ones dwarfed by the world’s largest Sitka Spruce burl. (A burl is the unique outgrowth of wood that grows from the trunks of big trees).

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36 | www.northislandgazette.com

+ LOCALS KNOW: Port McNeill is a great home base for all North Island activities whether by land or sea. Its central location makes it convenient for all tourist experiences and adventures.

who of seabirds. Local guides offer everything from daytrips to week-long adventures. There’s also a host of fishing charter operations here whose expertise includes finding halibut and the five Pacific salmon species - chinook, sockeye, pink, chum and coho. Port McNeill truly is where the wild things are!

Northern Gulf Island explorers take BC Ferries sailings to nearby Alert Bay and Sointula, two wonderful destinations with plenty of heritage, history and natural splendor of their own.

Back on terra firma in Port McNeill, hikers enjoy striding along the Schoolhouse Creek trail next to a salmon enhancement stream

that runs through town. The Port McNeill Rotary Trail reaching out from Port McNeill and along Highway 19 is excellent for those extra-long walks or distance jogging. The forest surrounding the town features a network of mountain bike trails for the two-wheeled adventurers - maps can be found at the local visitor centre, these also make for lovely forest hiking trails as well.

The town’s population swells in August for the annual Orcafest, a weekend bonanza featuring an open-air market, parade, and slo-pitch baseball tournament. Drag-racing enthusiasts take in the heart-pounding action

at the Rumble on the Runway series in the summer. And those who want to get away from it all can strap in for flightseeing excursions via plane or helicopter. The whirlybirds can also do drop-off and pick-up runs to the region’s remote and wild backcountry. But summer isn’t the only prime-time for a visit to Port McNeill and the north Island. Outdoor enthusiasts will find hunting opportunities during the fall and spring seasons with steelhead and trout fishing in nearby rivers and lakes when winter rough seas are too much. Mount Cain, Vancouver Island North’s local ski hill near the community of Woss, is a super-scenic winter getaway for powder-lovers and downhill sliders.

Complete Shopping Port McNeill 1705 Campbell Way

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Morning in the Broughton Archipelago with Mothership Adventures. © Boomer Jerritt

Broughton Archipelago T

his is one of the most b r e a thta k in gl y b e a u ti f ul spots on the planet with a relaxed pace that is a thing of envy. The unimaginable natural beauty and the solitude of being one of the only vessels in sight are just a couple of the things that make this region such an attractive marine destination. Visitors with goanywhere freedom can immerse themselves in the midst of it all at water level - either by kayak, pleasure boat or on guided wildlife expeditions.

The region’s legendary sailing and paddling expeditions head deep into the Broughton Archipelago, a mazy region of waterways and numerous islands large and small clustered northeast of Port McNeill beyond Sointula and Alert Bay. Every traveller’s experience here will be unique yet it’s sure to include deep lungsful of crisp ocean air, open-water adventures, long stretches of shoreline exploration and a few tricky tidal crossings.

Paddle or sail where you choose into impossibly scenic inlets or onto white-shell beaches. Camp under the stars or fall asleep while rocking gently in a secluded moorage.

Wilderness enthusiasts looking for eco-friendly adventures will find luxuriously remote floating lodge accommodation here capped by access to health services such as acupressure massage amid spectacular wilderness scenery.

Most memorably of all, there’s sure to be surprise encounters with seals, orcas or even humpback whales.

Waterproof digital cameras will get a serious workout, guaranteed.

Echo Bay on Gilford Island is the region’s one main port of call, either by water or floatplane. It’s home to a full-service marina as well as a remarkable museum and replica hand-loggers shack created by author, naturalist and retired fisherman Billy Proctor. Shop for art, dine at a pig roast, take a wilderness painting class and head into the forest on guided forays for wild food. While exploring this wild Island archipelago be aware of the growing population of cougars, once seen rarely, now much more prevalent. Marinas, affordable lodgings and oceanside campgrounds can also be found up Tribune Channel, past the narrows into Drury Inlet and throughout this postcard region.

38 | www.northislandgazette.com

Those seeking a more solitary communion with nature can easily find it in one of the many secluded coves noted in any of the half-dozen boaters’ guides to the Broughton Archipelago. In every way, the Broughton Archipelago welcomes your visit and can enrich your life.

broughton archipelago

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Telegraph Cove S

tep back in time and set sail into a marine wonderland at Telegraph Cove. This historic and picturesque water front village is perched at the entrance to Johnstone Strait, the Broughton Archipelago Marine Park and the Blackfish Archipelago. A top-10 winner of best towns to visit in a poll of Canadian travel writers, it’s among the last surviving boardwalk communities on the west coast.

Kayakers, wildlife viewers, pleasure boaters, scuba divers and sportsfishing enthusiasts clearly agree as they book early to avoid disappointment and magnetically return to this secluded, truly magical dot on the Vancouver Island North map.

Whale watching vessels set out on daytrips and multi-day adventures

during the May to October season.

Visitors here have the opportunity to enter into a rare, precious and respectful experience in wildlife viewing. The density and abundance of marine mammals in this area is truly astonishing. It is common to have the privilege of spotting killer whales (orca), humpback whales, Minke whales, Steller sea lions, Dall’s and harbour porpoise, harbour seals and Pacific white-sided dolphins.

River otters and black bears are also often sighted.

These waters are one of most predicable places to see killer whales in the wild. The area is frequented by both the mammaleating killer whale population known as “Bigg’s killer whales” (or “transients”) and the inshore

One of the very best times of the year to view the whales and marine life is during the month of September. With Salmon running, small fish schooling and tidal exchanges concentrating their food source, whales and many other marine mammals are attracted to this area.

Spotting an orca on Johnstone Strait with Stubbs Island Whale Watching © Boomer Jerritt

+ LOCALS KNOW:

fish-eating killer whale population known as the “Northern Residents.”

The latter come to the area to feed on salmon and to rub their bellies on “rubbing beaches”. They are the only population of killer whales in the world known to have this rubbing behaviour. The beaches they most often use have been recognized as critical habitat and are protected as a sanctuary known as the Dr. Michael Bigg Ecological Reserve at Robson Bight. Both the land and water areas of the Reserve are not open to the public.

The Whale Interpretive Centre (WIC) in Telegraph Cove provides an additional opportunity to learn about local marine life. This wonderful facility offers a highly educational and engaging experience that focuses on the biology of local marine mammals, the threats they face, and how we can all work toward their conservation. The WIC is home to a fascinating collection of marine mammal skeletons and interactive displays. The feature skeleton is that of a 60’ (17 meter) fin whale.

The number of marine mammals is testament to the productivity of this current rich area and the resulting large numbers of salmon and other fish on which the marine mammals feed. This means that this is one of the best areas on Vancouver Island for sport fishermen to haul in a prize catch.

Telegraph Cove’s history is embodied in its restored wooden buildings

www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

39

© Boomer Jerritt

and boardwalk. In 1912, it was chosen as the northern terminus for the telegraph line from Campbell River and earned a name in the process. A lumber mill and salmon saltery followed. During the Second World War the village served as a military relay station. Its genesis into a whale-watching mecca began in 1980 with the launch of BC’s first such enterprise.

A 20-minute drive south of Port McNeill and yet still a world away, Telegraph Cove is home to a resort with historic cabins along the boardwalk, condo-style lodging, two campgrounds, RV parks, vacation

Your Gateway to

rental homes and a pair of full-service marinas. The town’s small array of businesses includes its tour operators (whale watching, kayak adventures/ rentals, fishing-charters, aboriginal cultural tours and grizzly bear viewing daytrips) along with a restaurant and pub, a general store and two patio cafés. Result: It’s a pleasure to unwind here in comfort after a day on the water, trading stories about spectacular sightings over a good meal before enjoying a deep sleep in this peaceful getaway destination.

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TELEGRAPH

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Salmon Barbeques on Wednesday & Saturday evenings at the restaurant.

Great Sport Fishing Area Fishing Charters for Salmon & Halibut available.

www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

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H’kusam Kilmb © Boomer Jerritt

+ LOCALS KNOW: Lovely White River Provincial Park (aka the Cathedral Grove of the North Island) was saved for posterity in May 1990 when three local loggers refused to cut down this remarkable stand of giant trees.

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D

killer-whale, dolphin, and porpoise sightings.

Get oriented for unscripted, doit-yourself outdoor adventure by checking in at two spots – Highway 19 at the Sayward turnoff or the wharf at the end of the Sayward Road in Kelsey Bay. Here you’ll find maps, accommodation information and friendly advice on area hiking, walking, bicycling, fishing, canoeing, kayaking, camping (by the village pond or oceanside), wildlife/bird watching and

Backpackers and casual hikers explore a trail network that follows ancient First Nations trade routes in criss-crossing what’s aptly named as the Valley of Trails. The Dalrymple Forest Interpretive Trail offers a gentle self-guided stroll to a shaded, mossscented glade. Test stamina and strength on the challenging H’kusam Klimb, a day-long ascent and return; awe-inspiring valley views and lush alpine picnic spots reward those who reach the mile-high summit.

White River Provincial Park is a small, undeveloped wilderness area that offers excellent fishing opportunities and protection for important Roosevelt elk and black bear habitat.

This scenic park and its old-growth forest were stunning enough for Hollywood to take notice – portions of

etour off the fast track and take a deep, invigorating breath of clean west coast air as you enter a land of forests, mountains and winding hiking trails on the edge of peaceful Johnston Strait. Sayward is the gateway to Vancouver Island North’s rich bounty of outdoor pleasures. The quaint and rustic village is an hour’s scenic highway drive north of Campbell River and 90 minutes south of Port McNeill.

A short loop trail through the forest leads down to the White River. Along the way, visitors will be rewarded with views of some massive Douglas fir and western red cedar trees – giants which, no doubt, helped White River earn the nickname, “the Cathedral Grove of the North Island.”

Three unserviced campsites serve those who trek off the grid. Yet the wilderness has also been tamed in beautiful fashion in a few easily accessible spots. Nature buffs, couples and family groups wander acres of woodland trails at Victorian Garden Gate Manor. Birdwatchers eager for sightings of trumpeter swans, herons, bald eagles and more head for the estuary at the Salmon River Wildlife Reserve or the wheelchair-accessible Kelly’s Trail. Local guides can be hired for fishing expeditions and wildlife viewing.

Sayward’s wharfs and community life as a whole gets busy in the summer. Artists display their works during summer weekends at Ocean View Gifts in Al’s Room, on the Wharf in Kelsey Bay. This wharf is owned and operated by Sayward Futures Society, a not for profit organization whose volunteers not only look after the wharf, but also work in the Gift store/ Tourist Info Centre. The store carries not only local artwork, but some groceries and snacks along with fishing tackle.

An annual vintage car show is held in June. Artists, including world-renowned wood carver Glenn Greensides, display their work at Art in the Park in July.

August is bookended by the Oscar Daze slo-pitch baseball tournament and the Tour de Rock Fishing Derby, a fundraiser for Cops for Cancer. Fresh produce and good food are great reasons to visit the weekend market before relaxing in Heritage Park in the shade of an oak tree planted in 1936 to mark the coronation of England’s King George IV. Watch for a mysterious steamy ring round the peak of Hkusam Mountain - the Kwakwaka’wakw People called it Hiatsee Saklekum: “Where the breath of the sea lion gathers at the blow-hole”.

Passionate about ethical viewing & conservation!

Museum, Sointula © Boomer Jerritt

White River were used as a film site for the movie The Scarlet Letter, filmed here in 1994. Visitors to the park today will find remnants of the film set, including wide boardwalks designed to accommodate horse-drawn carriages.

Sointula A Place of Harmony WWW . SOINTULAINFO . CA VISITOR CENTRE 250.973.2001

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fascinating history, free bike rentals, a historic co-operative store and plenty of rural charm and character makes Sointula on sprawling Malcolm Island a memorable getaway from the already remote pleasures of Vancouver Island North. The town’s name means “place of harmony” in Finnish. It was established in the late 19th century when a colony of Scandinavian settlers arrived with utopian dreams.

While their ambitious plans were derailed within a decade, visitors will quickly learn that these visionaries chose the right place for a fresh air and salt water paradise on earth.

Most visitors today arrive via a 25-minute BC Ferries sailing from Port McNeill. Many park their cars and travel either as pedestrians or cyclists.

From May to September, those without bikes can borrow one for the day by checking in at the Sointula Resource Centre right off the ferry dock.

The island invites exploration, and a car is helpful when heading to popular destinations like Bere Point, Mitchell Bay or the Pulteney Point Lighthouse. Boaters utilize the good moorage in the Malcolm Island Lions Harbour.

Hikers rack up the mileage on the Mateoja Heritage trail, meandering back in time to an early 1900’s homestead. Ocean breezes and easy strolling are in store on the Kaleva Road Walkway, a 3 km seaside interpretive trail overlooking Broughton Strait. Bere Point Regional Park is the island’s only public campground. It’s the starting point for the Beautiful Bay trail, which winds along a rocky ridge that offers breathtaking ocean glimpses. Some hikers are lucky enough to witness killer whales rubbing on the pebble beaches below the viewing platform at the start of the trail.

rated “excellent”

Wir sprechen Deutsch!

contact us for group tours & custom charters whale watching & grizzly bear excursions

1-866-501-6722 or 250-286-7008

adventurewhalewatching.com campbell river across from fisherman’s Wharf

Visit the local museum, one of the best for its size, to learn about the island’s unique history. Drop into BC’s longest running cooperative store, formed as the Sointula Co-operative Store Association in 1909.

A bistro, bakery and deli provide a good range of food options, and it’s possible to shop for island made art and crafts at a few shops and home studios. The Sointula Resource Centre Society’s visitor information staff can point the way to the island’s B&B establishments and other accommodation options.

www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

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location

JAN

Sat & Sun, January 17 - 18 Sat, January 24

Women’s Weekend Cain Cup

Mount Cain Ski Area Mount Cain Ski Area

FEB

Sat & Sun, February 7 - 8 Sat, February 14 Sat & Sun, February 14 - 15 Sat & Sun, February 21 - 22

Backcountry Festival North Island Concert Society presents Six Guitars Snowboard Festival Telefest

Mount Cain Ski Area Port Hardy Mount Cain Ski Area Mount Cain Ski Area

MAR

Sat, March 21 Sat, March 28

Kid’s Fest North Island Concert Society presents Grupo America

Mount Cain Ski Area Port Hardy

Sun, April 5 Sat, April 18

Alert Bay

Fri, Sat & Sun, April 24 - 26

Breakfast with the Easter Bunny North Island Concert Society presents The Amazing & Impermeable Cromoli Brothers Doug Innes Memorial Spring Bird Count

Port Hardy Sointula

MAY

Sun, May 10 Fri – Mon, May 15 - 18

Mothers Day Tea Sointula Baseball Tournament

Alert Bay Sointula

JUNE

Sun, June 7 Sun, June 7 Mon, June 8 Thurs – Sun, June 18 - 21 Fri, Sat & Sun, Jun 19 - 21 Sat & Sun, June 20 - 21 Sun, June 21 Sat, Jun 27

Tri-Port Speedway Race Day Oceans Day Celebration Oceans Day Celebration 57th Annual June Sports BC’s Family Fishing Weekend 1/8 Mile Drag Racing Tri-Port Speedway Race Day (Dads get free admission) Port McNeill Logger Sports

Port Hardy Sointula Port Hardy Alert Bay BC Port McNeill Airport Port Hardy Port McNeill

Tues, July 1 Tues, July 1 Every Thurs, Fri & Sat July 2 thru August 29

Canada Day Regatta Canada Day Celebrations

Sointula Port Hardy, Port McNeill & Port Alice

T’sasala Cultural Group Traditional Native Dance Performances Tri-Port Speedway Race Day FILOMI Days 1/8 Mile Drag Racing Tri-Port Speedway Race Day 33rd Annual Alert Bay Seafest

Alert Bay Port Hardy Port Hardy Port McNeill Airport Port Hardy Alert Bay

8th Annual Alert Bay ArtFest

Alert Bay

Sat, August 1 Sat, August 1 Sun, August 2 Sun, August 2 Sat, August 8 Sat, August 15 Sat & Sun, August 22 - 23 Sat & Sun, August 22 - 23 Fri, Sat & Sun, August 28 - 30

T’sasala Cultural Group Traditional Native Dance Performances 14th Annual Alert Bay Music Fest Telegraph Cove Boardwalk Craft Fair 7th Annual Alert Bay 360 Eco Paddle Telegraph Cove Fishing Derby Tri-Port Speedway Race Day OrcaFest Tri-Port Speedway Dust Bowl Weekend 1/8 Mile Drag Racing Salmon Days

Alert Bay Alert Bay Telegraph Cove Alert Bay Telegraph Cove Port Hardy Port McNeill Port Hardy Port McNeill Airport Sointula

Sat & Sun, September 5 - 6 Sat, September 12 Sun, September 27

Mount Waddington Regional Fall Fair Tri-Port Speedway Race Day Rivers Day

Port McNeill Port Hardy Port Hardy

Sat, October 31 Sat October 31

Halloween Costume Crawl Halloween Fireworks

Port Hardy Port Hardy

Sun, November 1

Pumpkin Patch Walk

Port Hardy

Sun, December 6 Fri, January 1 (2016)

Santa Claus Parade Polar Bear Swim

Port Hardy Port Hardy & Port McNeill

JULY

APRIL

event

Sat, July 11 Fri, Sat & Sun, July 17 - 19 Sat & Sun, July 18 - 19 Sat, July 25 Fri, July 31 Fri, Sat & Sun July 31 - August 2 Every Thurs, Fri & Sat July 2 thru August 29

DEC

NOV OCT

SEPT

AUGUST

2015 Events - Vancouver Island North

date

All events are subject to change, please visit www.vancouverislandnorth.ca/events for most current listing.

44 | www.northislandgazette.com

© Kate Brown

Mount Cain © Boomer Jerritt

Zeballos WWW . ZEBALLOS . COM

Z

Woss & Nimpkish Valley O

ne of BC’s best-kept secret ski hills, plentiful hiking trails, watersports-friendly lakes, intriguing local history and a largely unspoiled natural landscape: It’s all part of the adventure that awaits active explorers who turn off Highway 19 at Woss, some 130 km north of Campbell River.

Logging has been a mainstay occupation here in the Nimpkish Valley since European settlers first arrived. In fact, Woss is the site of the only operational railroad logging enterprise in Canada.

Steam Locomotive 113, built in 1920 for rail logging, is a historic local treasure that honours the community’s heritage and is now a registered Heritage Site along with the Woss Fire Lookout located just north of the community.

Beyond the logging zones are emerald-green parks and b ackco untr y w ilder n ess. T h e Nimpkish Valley Ecological Reserve protects the oldest trees in the region. Schoen means “beautiful” in German, and it’s exactly the right word for Schoen Lake Provincial Park (open March to October).

Boaters launch from its gravel beaches, and climbers head for the heights via the trail network at Schoen. Pinder Peak and Rugged Mountain also have trail networks for adventuresome climbers.

North of Woss is Nimpkish Lake, a breezy favourite with windsurfers and kiteboarders. Get a taste of the caving experience at Little Huson Regional Park’s “walk-in” limestone caves and unique land formations.

Powder blues aren’t an issue for North Island skiers. Open on weekends and select Mondays, Mount Cain is a funky, communityrun, family-oriented resort virtually free of line-ups. With room aplenty to carve sweeping ‘s’ patterns into the snow that’s piled up during the week, enthusiasts ride the t-bar lifts, inhale pure oxygen and test themselves on 18 runs and 457 metres of vertical drop. Café-style meals, slope-side accommodations and affordable lift prices contribute to the relaxed vibes. Off-season, Mount Cain’s high alpine meadows attract hikers and wildlife watchers.

eballos is pure gold as an outdoor adventure destination on the sheltered inland Pacific coastline of Vancouver Island North. It’s a perfect jumpingoff point for Kyuquot Sound and the marine getaways at Catala and Nuchatlitz provincial parks.

Hire maritime guides and their boats in town or bring your own transportation. To get here, head north for 15 minutes from Woss on Highway 19, then travel west for about an hour on a gravel logging road. The scenery, rewarding vistas and remote beauty of the place fully justifies the trip.

This was once booming gold-rush country. Between 1938 and 1942, a bustling town rose practically overnight as the fever peaked with the extraction of $13 million in claims. Production halted postWorld War II when the price of gold dropped and material and labour costs spiked, leaving stores of the precious metal in the ground. Those who remained turned to forestry

and fish processing, key industries to this day. Explore regional history at the family-friendly Zeballos Heritage Museum.

Sport fishing is a favorite way to get out on the water in pursuit of salmon, halibut, red snapper and rockfish. Troll in the relatively sheltered Zeballos Inlet. Cruise towards the Esperanza Inlet and the wilder waters of the open Pacific.

Or cast lines for cut-throat and rainbow trout in the Zeballos and Kaouk rivers. Scuba divers explore the rock walls at Tahsis Narrows, surfers head for Nootka Island, and birdwatchers congregate in local estuaries.

After enjoying the relaxed pace of Zeballos, motorists can follow the gravel road to Fair Harbour, a great launching point for marine adventures. Gorgeous, beach-lined Rugged Point Marine Park is an easy day paddle from the shoreline.

Come, Explore & Discover There’s Gold In Them Hills!

Heritage Buildings, Self GuidedWalking Tours, Heritage Museum Outdoor Recreation Paradise Sportfishing, Kayaking, Walking Trails, Birdwatching, Diving, Rock Climbing Visitor Services Restaurants, Accommodations, Camping and RV Sites, Boat Launch, Store, Fuel

Call us at (250) 761-4229 between 8:30-4:30 Mon. to Fri. or check us out online at www.zeballos.com

www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

45

Grizzly Bears of Knight inlet

1-888-643-9319 • 1-250-928-3090 contact@tiderip.com www.grizzlycanada.com

46 | www.northislandgazette.com

Let us package your experience of a lifetime!

Deluxe facilities • 40 ocean view rooms • 150-slip marina with power & water Fuel dock & propane • Showers & laundry Tackle Shop and Convenience items • Meeting room Quarterdeck Pub & Restaurant • Liquor store

Enjoy our Daily Drink & Food Specials served from 11am-11pm Let us serve you in the restaurant, banquet room or your favorite outdoor or indoor spot.

6555 Hardy Bay Rd, Port Hardy, BC • 250-949-6922 | 1.877.902.0459

www.quarterdeckresort.net www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

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V A N C O U V E R

I S L A N D

N O R T H

Port M Neill

SuperValu Groceries 7 Days A Week #2-311 Hemlock Street 250-956-2881 North Island Kayak Whale & Wildlife Kayak Tours 2 hours to 8 days - Telegraph Cove, Johnstone Strait & the Broughton Archipelago info@kayakbc.com 1-877-949-7707 www.KayakBC.ca Tide Rip Tours Grizzly Bears of Knight Inlet tiderip@telus.net 250-928-3090 • 1-888-643-9319 www.grizzlycanada.com Dalewood Inn Gym Facilities • Liquor Store Oceanview Restaurant 1703 Broughton Blvd. stay@dalewoodinn.com 1-855-956-3304 www.dalewoodinn.com Alert Bay Resort Cabins, Wildlife tours, gathering place Breathtaking Ocean views (250) 974.5457 TF 1.877.974.5457 info@alertbayresort www.alertbayresort.com Sea Rose Studio Paintings • Pottery • Art Getaways Echo Bay, Broughton Archipelago Yvonne Maximchuk 250.974.8134 searosestudio@hotmail.com www.yvonnemaximchuk.com

c

The Heart of Your North Island Adventure!

Kayaking, Caving, Hiking, Biking, Diving, Birding, Golf, Skiing, Marine Tours & Charters, Saltwater & Freshwater Fishing, Whale Watching, Grizzly Tours, Museums, RVing & Camping, Nature Tours, Scenic Flights, Galleries & Studios, Photography, Hunting

Tourism Port McNeill P.O. Box 728, Port McNeill, BC V0N 2R0 Port McNeill & District Chamber of Commerce & Visitor Centre P.O. Box 129 1594 Beach Drive, Port McNeill Toll Free in Canada & USA: 1-888-956-3131

www.portmcneill.net | portmcneillchamber@telus.net