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Demi Overall - Zero Black Available now at neuwdenim.com
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KIA OR A AND WELCOME TO ISSUE 12 OF BLKONBLK. THIS ISSUE CALLED ‘UNAPOLOGETICALLY BL ACK’ IS IMPORTANT AND RESONATES DEEPLY WITH US. BECAUSE WE ARE A CREATIVE WHANAU THAT BELIEVE IN WHO WE ARE, OUR CR AF T AND WE OWN OUR OWN CORNER. WE ARE UNAPOLOGETICALLY OURSELVES, WE DO NOT COMPROMISE. I HAVE CHOSEN TO RE -WRITE AN ASPECT FROM A FORWARD GR ANT FELL MY BELOVED HUSBAND AND EDITOR-IN- CHIEF WROTE IN BL ACK PRINT ISSUE #19. THIS RINGS TRUE TO THIS DAY FOR US HERE AT BLKONBLK AND BL ACK MAGA ZINE. “ WHEN WE STARTED THIS MAGA ZINE A FRIEND IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY ASKED US WHO ARE YOU MAKING THIS MAGA ZINE FOR? OUR ANSWER CAME FREELY - FOR PEOPLE LIKE US. NOTHING HAS CHANGED, IN FACT THAT APHORISM IS MORE TRUE THAN EVER. BL ACK MAGA ZINE AND BLKONBLK IS FOR PEOPLE LIKE US WHO ARE, IN TURN, MOST LIKELY PEOPLE LIKE YOU. TO COIN ANOTHER MA XIM WHICH HAS REVERBER ATED WITHIN OUR ETHOS SINCE WE STARTED; RULES ARE – NO RULES AND WE FOLLOW THIS BELIEF IN OUR BUSINESS WHICH REQUIRES FREE THINKING AND AN ABILIT Y TO ACT QUICKLY WITH A CONSTANT E YE TO THE FUTURE. YET THERE IS NO FUTURE WITHOUT A PAST AND WE STRONGLY BELIEVE THAT THE ESSENCE OF A POSITIVE FUTURE INCLUDES A BROAD UNDERSTANDING OF THE PAST. IT SADDENS US THAT A CONSIDER ABLE NUMBER OF PEOPLE LIVE IN A TR ASHY, VAPID WORLD OF CELEBRIT Y, REALIT Y T V, FAKE AND OVER INFL ATED NUMBER - SOCIAL MEDIA PL ATFORMS AND KNOW LIT TLE, IF ANY THING OF WHAT HAS GONE BEFORE. THEN AGAIN, IT IS LIKELY THOSE PEOPLE WON’T BE READING THIS – ONLY PEOPLE LIKE US, PEOPLE LIKE YOU – THOSE WITH ENQUIRING MINDS.” SO CONTINUING THE VISION AND THE FUTURE GR ANT WROTE OF, WE AGAIN DELIVER WITH GREAT PRIDE OUR DIGITAL ISSUE AND CONTINUE OUR GOAL AS AN ESTABLISHED INTERNATIONAL FASHION, BEAUT Y AND LIFEST YLE MAGA ZINE FOUNDED IN AOTEAROA, NEW ZEAL AND THAT PERFORMS ON THE WORLD STAGE.
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R ACHAEL CHURCHWARD AND ETHAN BUTLER EDITORS R.I.P GR ANT FELL
www.workshop.co.nz
Publishers + Founders Grant Fell (R.I.P) Rachael Churchward Editors Rachael Churchward Ethan Butler Creative, Fashion + Beauty Director Rachael Churchward Fashion Editor Ethan Butler International Editor- at-Large Paul Empson Australasian Editor- at-Large David K Shields Australian Editor Melbourne / Senior Hair + Beauty Editor Justin Henry Australian Fashion Editors Chris Lorimer Sarah Birchley Kelvin Harries New Zealand Hair Editor Greg Murrell at Ryder Salon Features Editors Sarah Birchley Chris Lorimer NYC Fashion Editor Heathermary Jackson Online Fashion Editor NZ Lenard Johnston Design Direction Tom Munday
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Advertising Management: Ethan Butler Rachael Churchward ethan@blackmagazine.co.nz rachael@blackmagazine.co.nz Online Management Ethan Butler David K Shields Business Development + Distribution Manager Stuart Shepherd BLKONBLK is published bi- annually by BLK NZ Ltd 1/34 Nordon Place, Remuera, Auckland 1050 +(64) 277514684 Printing by Soar Print Ltd www.soarprint.co.nz Print Distribution in NZ & Australia by Gordon & Gotch Ltd. International distribution by 8 Point Media The views expressed in Black Magazine are not necessarily those of the publishers and editors. No part of this digital publication may be reproduced in any way without permission. Thank you. Please note all editorial and features are commissioned by our teams. We do not accept unsolicited submissions. Please consider the enviroment before printing this digital magazine. Special thanks to Andrea Plowwright at 62 Models, Jordan Daniels, Jordan Vickors, Bally, Shemi Alovic, Kenza Parente, Toni Tittleton, Heathermary Jackson, Charles Howells + White Studios ISSN 1177-2603 ŠBLK NZ LTD, 2019
PHOTOGR APHY CHARLES HOWELS DIRECTION R ACHAEL CHURCHWARD AND ETHAN BUTLER MAKEUP KIEKIE STANNERS AT M.A .C COSMETICS HAIR BENJAMIN JAMES AT RYDER JORDAN VICKORS WEARS EYEWEAR BY K AREN WALKER 22
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Woman Holding a Tortoise-shell Hair-comb. Kitagawa Utamaro. 1790 – 1801. The Art Institute of Chicago
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A creative space to make your mark.
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Photography Luke Foley-Martin. Fashion Rachael Churchward. Makeup and hair Carolyn Haslett using M.A.C Cosmetics and Kevin Murphy. Model Polly at Unique Model Management. Boots by Beau Coops. Thanks to White Studios.
HANDS UP AGAIN! FOR NOM*d’S ‘HANDS UP’ 2019 WINTER COLLECTION BY ROCKING A MULTI LAYERED PRINT ENSEMBLE. SHOP THE NOM*D WINTER COLLECTION HERE 30
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SLIP Photography Luke Foley-Martin. Fashion Rachael Churchward. Hair and makeup Carolyn Haslett using Kevin Murphy and M.A.C Cosmetics. Model Polly at Unique Model Management. Slides by Slydes. Earrings by Zora Bell Boyd Jewellery. Thanks to White Studios.
SLIP ON NOM*d’S PANELLED OVERDRESS FROM AW19, PAIR IT WITH YOUR SOCKS AND SLIDES BY SLYDES THEN THAT’S A WRAP FOR STYLISH AND COMFORTABLE THIS WINTER. SHOP THE SLYDES FOOTWEAR RANGE HERE 32
33 Sabre Corporation | Australia 1300 764 437 | New Zealand 0800 456 426 | info@sabre-group.com
HEARTS Photography Luke Foley-Martin. Direction Ethan Butler. Model Ayan at N Model Management. Bodysuit by Raven and Rose from The Shelter. Thanks to White Studios.
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THIS TITTLETON GLASS STUDIO MASK SCULPTURE IS A PERFECT MATCH FOR KAREN WALKER’S MONUMENTAL ‘SIDNEY’ FRAME. INTERVIEW WITH GLASS ARTIST TONI TITTLETON COMING SOON IN PRINT ISSUE 31. MASK AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE HERE
@slydesco slydes.co.uk
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IN THE FOREST OF MOONLIGHT KAREN WALKER’S LATEST JEWELLERY COLLECTION ENTITLED ‘FOREST’ PLAYS ON A SENSE OF SUPERNATURALISM, GREEK GODS ROMANTICISM, BOUND UP IN AN ANCIENT MIDNIGHT TRIBUTE TO THE MYTHIC POWER OF THE FOREST. SO IT MAKES SENSE TO FEATURE THE KW MINIATURE OAK LEAF RING WITH THIS MINIATURE GLASS SCULPTURE BY TITTLETON GLASS STUDIO WHICH CREATES A PRISM OF WHIMSICAL LIGHT. ARTWORK AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE HERE Photography Taylor Prichard. Creative direction Ethan Butler, Rachael Churchward and Toni Tittleton Thanks to White Studios. 36
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Photography Luke Foley-Martin. Fashion Ethan Butler. Makeup Abbie Gardner using M.A.C Cosmetics. Model Ayan at N Model Management. Hat by Marmalade Hats from The Shelter. Thanks to White Studios.
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SCREW THE DISCO BALL! CATCH THE LIGHT AND HUSTLE YOUR WAY TO THE CENTRE OF THE FLOOR IN ISABEL MARANT’S OLIVIA SEQUIN TOP, ODIZ SEQUIN TROUSERS AND LURREY BOOTS FROM WORKSHOP. GIVE ‘EM A SPIN AND MAKE SURE TO LEAVE A TWINKLE IN EVERYONE’S EYE - HOWEVER, AVOID SPINNING TOO FAST, BLKONBLK WONT TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY SLIPS, TRIPS OR FALLS. SHOP THE ISABEL MARANT RANGE HERE
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HEARTS Photography Luke Foley-Martin. Fashion Ethan Butler. Makeup Abbie Gardner using M.A.C Cosmetics. Model Ayan at N Model Management. Boots by Beau Coops. Broach by Zora Bell Boyd Jewellery. Thanks to White Studios.
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LAST PERIOD IS OVER AND IT’S TIME TO HIT THE STREET WITH HELEN CHERRY’S AW RANGE, WHICH CREATES A LUX UNIFORM FROM WORKSHOP. WHO NEEDS AN EDUCATION WHEN YOU CAN BEND THE RULES BY SIMPLY LOOKING THIS FRESH - JUST BE SURE TO AVOID THE BACK OF THE BIKE SHEDS. SHOP HELEN CHERRY HERE
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Photography Luke Foley-Martin. Fashion Rachael Churchward. Makeup Abbie Gardner using M.A.C Cosmetics. Model Ayan at N Model Management. Shoes by Beau Coops. Broach by Zora Bell Boyd Jewellery. Thanks to White Studios.
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IF LITTLE RED RIDING HOOD WAS OPTING FOR A NEW CAPE IN BLACK TO AVOID BEING STALKED BY THE BIG BAD WOLF, SHE WOULD INDEED INVEST IN THE SALASAI ‘DREAMSCAPE’ AUTUMN WINTER 2019 SCIFI MERINO PONCHO. SHOP THE SALASAI COLLECTION HERE
Available at
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Photography Luke Foley-Martin. Fashion Rachael Churchward. Makeup Carolyn Haslett using M.A.C Cosmetics. Model Polly at Unique Model Management. Thanks to White Studios, ThreebyOne and Service Denim.
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IF YOU’RE WANTING TO PUT A SPIN ON YOUR HOODIE AND OVERALLS, THEN UPGRADE TO THIS HIGH END HOMIE VIBE. TEAM THE ROLLA’S ‘TRADE OVERALLS’ AND NEUW ‘HEAVY HOOD’ WITH A POSSUM BEANIE BY LELA JACOBS AND GLAMORAMA WORN AROUND HEAD BY JIMMY D - SHOP BOTH ROLLA’S AND NEUW DENIM HERE
MONSTER HIT THE ANIBELLE ROCCIA BOOT BY BEAU COOPS FROM AW19 IS A MONSTER HIT HERE AT BLKONBLK, WITH IT’S SQUARE TOE AND SELF COVERED BLOCK HEEL IT IS SET TO POLISH OFF YOUR LOOK AND IT’S CLEARLY CONFIRMED BY MR MONSTER HIMSELF.
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HEARTS Previous page, this and following page: Photography Taylor Prichard. Creative direction Ethan Butler and Rachael Churchward. Thanks to White Studios. Special thanks to Alisha Sinclair from 9 Lives Orphanage for supplying Mr Monster.
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THE BEAU COOPS AW19 FRANA ANGUILLA NERO LOAFER FEELS LIKE THE PAST HAS BEEN DELVED INTO IN ORDER TO MOVE FORWARD. WITH ITS BOLD SQUARE TOE AND BLOCKED CUBAN HEEL IT’S DEFINITELY A FASHION STATEMENT THIS SEASON, WE ADORE. SO TO ADAPT AN OLD FLORAL ADAGE, NOTHING SAYS ‘I LOVE YOU’ QUITE LIKE FLOWERS
THE VERY FIBRE OF NEUW DENIM IS BUILT AROUND THE CONCEPT OF HERITAGE AND DENIM HISTORY. A 21ST CENTURY MEN’S AND WOMEN’S BRAND. BUILT ON FOUNDATIONS BASED IN MUSIC, CREATORS AND ORIGINATORS. I WILL TAKE MY JACKET OFF TO THAT! SHOP NEUW FROM SERVICE DENIM
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PHOTOGRAPHY CHARLES HOWELLS DIRECTION ETHAN BUTLER AND RACHAEL CHURCHWARD HAIR BENJAMIN JAMES AT RYDER MAKEUP KIEKIE STANNERS AT M.A.C COSMETICS INTERVIEW CHRIS LORIMER
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FROM SMALL TOWN BOY TO A GLOBETROTTING STYLE ARBITER, JORDAN VICKORS HAS QUICKLY COME UP THROUGH FASHION’S RANKS. FALLING IN WITH THE RENOWNED INTERNATIONAL STÜSSY TRIBE IN 2016, JORDAN IS MAKING HIS NAME BY BRINGING HIS PERSONAL BRAND OF LONDON COOL TO THE GLOBAL STREET WEAR GAME. HE SPOKE WITH CHRIS LORIMER ABOUT HIS RISE UP THROUGH THE SCENE, LIFE BEFORE INSTAGRAM AND WHEN PEER PRESSURE IS A GOOD THING. WHILST IN AUCKLAND, JORDAN JOINED US WITH LOCAL STAR ON THE RISE, MODEL AND PARTNER JORDAN DANIELS.
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“STYLE CAN’T BE BOUGHT THAT’S FOR SURE”
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In your own words, what is it that you do? I’m a creative consultant, freelance stylist and casting director. And how did you first get involved with Stüssy and the London Tribe? My good friend and mentor Tremaine Emory, when he wasn’t busy sneaking me into parties, had me help out on some Stüssy editorials and events. The first thing we did together was a Stüssy X Alpha Industries shoot and then he got me to feature and cast the Autumn 2016 look-book featuring London MC, Jesse James Solomon. What does Stüssy mean to you? It’s my new home, I travel the world with the tribe, work with the best creatives in the world and we throw the best parties. It’s close to my heart. What’s kept the brand relevant? I think with the amount of talent we have at Stüssy it’s impossible for us to fail. We make great product and we have an even better way of connecting to our community. Is that connection via social media? And how do you think it has influenced this current generation? I mean, work wise it’s helped a lot. It’s good to have a concentration of images we can reference and consume. I only want to focus on the positives. It’s a tool that has been a great addition to our generation. It’s given kids from out of town a way to be able to learn and understand about other cultures and people. Can you remember life before Instagram? Of course, I climbed trees and played video games when I was younger. I felt free. Social media is a positive thing if it’s used correctly. Communication is key. Where are you originally from? Ampthill, Bedfordshire in the UK. What was it like growing up there? I played a lot of football and video games and watched endless Eminem and
Pharrell videos in my summers. Nothing happens there but it was a perfect start for someone with big goals. It made me hungry to leave. You’re now well travelled, what are some of the favourite places you’ve been to? Our recent Stüssy tribe gathering in Bali, Indonesia was up there with the best but by far my favourite place to be is New York City. That’s my home away from home. You’ve just been in Sydney to help open the new Stüssy chapter, how did you like the city? Sydney is cool, I thought it felt like LA: relaxed and slowed down. Streetwear is a big thing for the kids there, which was nice to see. How was your time in NZ? What discoveries did you make? Never in my life did I think I would make it all the way to New Zealand and it was a magical place. I met my girlfriend’s parents, ate amazing food and really slipped into the way of life over there. It was really refreshing. What does style mean to you? It can’t be bought that’s for sure. What’s your current favourite piece of clothing you own? Do you have anything you always carry or wear when travelling? I have some Comme des Garçons x Speedo trousers that I always travel in. And I have some Needles sandals that haven’t left my feet in a month. What are you listening to at the moment? I really only listen to leaked Cart snippets & Peggy Gou. Who and what keeps you inspired and why? The people I work with and things I see online. My peers push me to think differently and achieve more but also the future picture keeps me super focused. So, what does the future hold? Where do you see yourself 10 years from now? I’ll continue my ride with the Stüssy Tribe but also my vision will become bigger and more inclusive.
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Previous page: Eyewear by Karen Walker and top by Vivienne Westwood This page: Tracksuit by Stussy. Opposite: Jacket by Stussy and eyewear by Gentle Monster Special thanks to Andrea Plowright at 62 Management, Jordan Daniels and White Studios
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PHOTOGRAPHY TANJA BRUCKNER INTERVIEW AND FASHION EDITOR CHRIS LORIMER, SHOT ON LOCATION AT CEMENT FONDU GALLERY SYDNEY AUSTRALIA
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MUSICIAN, PRODUCER, ACADEMIC, TEACHER AND ARTIST, RAINBOW CHAN [AND YES, IT’S HER REAL NAME] USES POP MUSIC AS HER SURREPTITIOUS SPRINGBOARD TO DISCUSS WIDER ISSUES. SHE SAT DOWN WITH CHRIS LORIMER IN SYDNEY, SURROUNDED BY HER ART, TO NAVIGATE HIM THROUGH HER MULTI-FACETED BODY OF WORK, DIGITAL INTIMACY, AND HOW BEING A SLASHIE IS CREATIVE SURVIVAL. 67
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not to hide exactly, but create a bit of space for you to exist outside of the work. Having started in the industry in my early twenties, I’ve thought a lot about image culture. Social media was really blowing up then and although now people are more accustomed to over-sharing for me it was quite strange to sing my heart out and to have an audience feel like they knew me so personally. Where are you at with it now, a bit later in your career? Now I do feel better about that as I’ve set up a buffer zone for myself with these many different projects. When you give and give, and you invest yourself in the work, you can burn out after a while and it can also be hard to figure out where the performance ends and where you begin. With my pop stuff now, I feel there is a separation there. It allows me to still be genuine and tell the stories I want to tell but it’s less convoluted. I know how much I want to give, and then I can just draw a line. My songs now also about a lot of other different topics and aren’t so autobiographical. I’m looking at the idea of community and stories that have been passed on from different generations. Looking at the world outside of myself. You’ve just released a new pop track as Rainbow Chan, tell me about that? The song is called “Love Isn’t Easy” and lyrically it was just one of those moments where I’d had a fight with someone and I just wanted to get these words down. In the last few years, I’ve been travelling a bit more back to Hong Kong where I was born. I also went to China last year for an artist’s residency and to Seoul, Korea for a holiday. In discovering the vibrant musical undergrounds in those places I got really inspired, so the production on this
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First up, let’s talk about how all these things that you do intertwine, can you talk me through? I love looking at the power of pop music and its way of reflecting cultural and social contexts through a very enjoyable innocuous form. In any kind of interaction, there’s a transfer of power, and I’m examining some of the ways power works even if it’s “just’ via a pop song. My Rainbow Chan project has always had a pop sensibility. I started off as a folk-inspired singer/songwriter but quickly I moved toward electronic music, and really got into production. As my music started to be heard and as I started to navigate the music industry I found I had to validate myself a lot not only as a vocalist but as a producer as well. Not being just a “pretty” face? Exactly, so the purely electronic and experimental side of things has stemmed out of that. My musical work split into different steams as I was looking to challenge and question some of those genre conventions and constructs. I have another project, Chun Yin, where there is no singing whatsoever and I don’t use my face for that project. It is more about sound. And also I’m in a duo called Din with Alex Ward and that one is house/dance/club music. Alex is a solo female artist, under the name Moon Holiday, and we shared some of the same frustrations in resisting certain industry expectations and assumptions. Did the electronic scene feel like a better fit in terms of visibility and validation as well as the type of music you wanted to make? I don’t necessarily think that electronic music is more authentic or more real. But I think that it has a language that is a bit more abstract. You’re allowed to have a layer of mediation,
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Opening: Jacket by COS, and shirt Christopher Esber Previous page: Dress by Lonely This page: Coat by Kate Sylvester
and performance allowed me to explore music in a more complex way. I don’t feel that I’m someone who necessarily fits into any one genre or strict discipline. And it’s super fun, it helps me to not be complacent and the two sides feed each other. So let’s talk about Gloss, your interdisciplinary show at the Cement Fondu Project Space where we’re actually conducting the interview right now. It’s centred on Chamele, which is actually a real fragrance, a readymade, a found object from a local $2 Store. To me, it reveals a very complicated space of global economy and the way that certain brands are fetishised, the prestige that they give you and then how that can be disrupted by knockoffs. There’s also a listening station where I created a jingle for the fake perfume that uses certain musical techniques that subvert what you’d think would be a typical ad. I used a lot of online translation tools so things don’t really make sense and the vocal quality is low so it sounds abrasive in your ear. And then also within the show, I portray a character that is super feminine, referencing how the advertising industry portrays “being a woman”, in a tongue-in-cheek very selfreferential way. She came to me when I found a pair of sandals when I was in Guangzhou, China, a place where you see lots of counterfeit items in the markets. There are lots of different designer logos printed onto them. To me, they had a dystopian cyberpunk vibe. When I put the shoes on I started to feel a bit different and realised I could create a character. So I made the dress that also carries the pattern and I added a long hair wig. I’m obsessed with hair, what hair means femininity, identity and belonging. And in Chinese culture, you’re not meant to cut your hair. As I started to play with this persona I found her to be really fun, super over the top, a caricature. I started to understand Cosplay [laughs]. My work is always offset by something that is strange, a dissonance or ambivalence where you could look a bit deeper if you wish; get in under the top layer. I think this is a really nice place for the Chamele figure to rest for now, but who knows maybe there’ll be another bootleg version of her! [laughs] After all this, dare I ask, do you have anything more coming up? [laughs] Yes! I’m independently releasing my new Rainbow Chan album in the middle of the year. I’ll be touring that, and I’m really excited to get out and share it with everyone. Shot on location at Clement Fondu Gallery, Sydney.
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track leans towards the modern Asian pop aesthetic but it’s also quite trappy as well. I also wanted to have some Chinese in my lyrics so the main hook is “love isn’t easy“ in Mandarin. It’s been really nice to play this song live. It’s all in English and suddenly there’s that one different sounding line. When I was growing up it’s what I would listen to Cantonese pop songs with a sudden two lines of English and I’d learn little phrases in that way. So I wanted to do that but reverse it. Hopefully, some kid out there will hear me diversifying the standard White mediascape. I feel that there’s a social change towards this language hybridity, which is exciting. You also have Seoul rapper Moldy guesting on the track, how did that come about? I’d always envisioned that there’d be a rap in the song. When I discovered Moldy on Instagram, I got in touch with him. It’s uncanny and weird how the Internet connects us with people from all over the world. I sent him the backing track and I asked him to rap within it. Two days later he’d replied with a vocal that I could copy and paste straight in. It was a really interesting process, something I’ve not done much before. So I went back into the studio with his audio track and worked with it for hours on end, mixing and cutting it up to get to sit right. We were in conversation but without ever having met each other in person. It’s really digital intimacy. That’s the thing if you send your voice or image away, giving someone else access to that raw file and they can do whatever they want with it really. I could have made something he hated! [laughs] I felt like I’d sussed out his vibe, he’d been on my radar for a little bit already and I sent him music that I thought would match his flow. It was definitely an informed decision. Alongside music another aspect of your creative work is art: installation and performance, what are you doing in that realm currently? My two main things growing up were music and art. So many of the spaces now where people are creative are so interdisciplinary. The slashie! [laughs]. If you’re making music, you’re probably going to have to make a video to go with it, so it makes sense to search Google with ‘how to make videos” or “how to do a photo shoot”. It’s a survival mechanism for control in this very saturated industry. For me, art making came out of knowing that Pop music has only limited space to say what I want to say and that my deep liner notes might not be read at all! Shifting my ideas into the forms of installation, long-form writing,
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ROCCO MASCITELLI IS MANAGING DIRECTOR OF SYDNEY BASED FASHION AGENCY N.M.I, A UNIQUE FAMILY OWNED BUSINESS THAT OPERATES IN THE SPHERES OF FASHION AND FOOTWEAR, ACROSS SALES, MARKETING, DESIGN AND PRODUCTION.
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AUSTRALIAN FEATURES EDITOR, SARAH BIRCHLEY, SPOKE TO ROCCO ABOUT THE PRODUCTION AND ETHICS INVOLVED IN THE FOOTWEAR MAKING PROCESS N.M.I was founded by Rocco’s father, Nick Mascitelli, so he and his siblings were to grow up surrounded by the creative industries. Rocco recalls relocating to Italy from Sydney as a teenager as a formative moment in what would eventually become his career, ’ This is where I acquired my passion for footwear. I remember spending my summer holidays in shoe factories learning all about leather, pattern work and last development. The hand nature of footwear manufacturing is what is central to the beauty of this art.’ House of Last is the department of N.M.I that takes care of design, development, production and supply for footwear and leather goods. It operates as a full service resource for footwear brands at N.M.I, such as Beau Coops, Sempre Di and Brando to name but a few. What is the process that you follow when you are developing footwear for a brand through House of Last? Developing footwear is quite complex and has a lot more elements involved than clothing. We always started with the last or shape as it is better known in laymen’s terms. Choosing a last is central to all the development process. Once this is done we choose the heel and the sole unit that we would like to use. Next is the pattern work. This is the process by which all designs on paper are drawn onto the last with the proper proportions. From there, it’s all about choosing materials and colours and putting it all together in what we call a prototype. Once we are happy with the elements of this process and necessary modifications have been carried out, we produce our sales sample which we use in the showroom to sell. How has footwear production developed with time and technology? Are there techniques and processes that you now have access to that weren’t available when NMI first started? Progress and the need to advance ones knowledge is something that will always be part of human nature. Today you can cut leather with a laser machine and produce a 3D image of a shoe before you even develop the first prototype. Nevertheless, it is the very nature of shoe making by hand which characterises quality made footwear and the human element is central to this. So, some things cannot be bettered by technology
. It’s like creating a Picasso. It can’t be done without Picasso. What part does sustainability and ecoawareness play in the footwear industry? Is this something that is considered in production for the brands under House of Last? This is a very important point for us. Sourcing sustainable materials such as veg tan leathers (that use tree bark, leaves and some fruits in the tanning process as opposed to chrome based tanning) has always been part of the development process. Making sure that we leave the smallest possible footprint in our quest to offer quality footwear which is both good for the environment and for our clients, will always be central to our way of doing business. Beau Coops is a brand that you have developed in collaboration with New Zealander Carrie Cooper. Can you tell us about this partnership and how the brand has developed with House of Last? 8 years ago I met this N.Z designer that had just moved back from London to embark in a new adventure with a wellknown Australian fashion brand. NMI was engaged to make the footwear and to cut a long story short after every thing went pear shaped with the Aussie’s, Carrie ended up working for some crazy Italians. Beau Coops is the result of this association . Beau Coops was originally the name of a style that then became beau5. House of Last has worked on footwear collaborations with many different Australian fashion brands. How do you feel about the industry here in Australia? I think in the last 10 years Australia has developed its own identity and hand writing, both in fashion and footwear. That’s why we are now recognised and appreciated not only here but also abroad. It’s great to see this new creative burst of young talented designers making their mark. Are there any local brands that you are excited to work with in future? At the moment we are collaborating with Luke Sales and Anna Plunkett from Romance was Born; I must say they are a really talented pair. Their vibrant prints and brocades have made many fashion commentators sit up and notice. Really looking forward to seeing what they come up with next. Photography by and special thanks to Carla Torrance. 75
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DEFINITIVE GAZE PHOTOGRAPHY CHARLES HOWELLS FASHION RACHAEL CHURCHWARD HAIR GREG MURRELL AT RYDER MAKEUP SHARLENE CASSIDY USING M.A.C COSMETICS MODELS SHANNON AT RPD MODELS POLLY AND ERIN AT UNIQUE MODELS BECKY AND SOPHIA AT CLYNE MODELS
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Opening: Tops by MM6 Maison Margiela from The Shelter Opposite: Jacket by Stolen Girlfriends Club This page: Dress by Kiri Nathan
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PHOTOGRAPHY CAROLYN HASLETT FASHION RACHAEL CHURCHWARD HAIR CAROLYN HASLETT USING KEVIN MURPHY MAKEUP SHARLENE CASSIDY USING M.A.C COSMETICS MODEL HANNAH LEE AT CLYNE MODEL MANAGEMENT
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SHE HANGS BRIGHTLY PHOTOGRAPHY CAROLYN HASLETT FASHION RACHAEL CHURCHWARD HAIR AND MAKEUP CAROLYN HASLETT USING M.A.C COSMETICS AND KEVIN MURPHY PRODUCTS MODEL HANNAH LEE AT CLYNE WORDS CAROLYN HASLETT
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OVERLOADED COLOUR, CHALKY LIPS, PIGMENTED EYES, I LOVE THE CONTRAST AGAINST PALE LUMINESCENT SKIN AND A WHITE TEE SHIRT. M.A.C COSMETIC PIGMENTS ARE MADE TO BE SEEN. BE UNAFRAID. PAR BACK SKIN, MAKE IT ALL ABOUT THE LIPS AND EYES. MIX PIGMENTS WITH LIPSTICK, TO CREATE SWEEPS OF COLOUR THAT SCREAM, AND DEMAND TO BE NOTICED. 94
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CHARACTERS OF BALLY SPRING SUMMER 19 PHOTOGRAPHY CHARLES HOWELLS FASHION RACHAEL CHURCHWARD HAIR GREG MURRELL AND BENJAMIN JAMES AT RYDER MAKEUP KIEKIE STANNERS AT M.A.C.COSMETICS MODELS SOPHIA AT CLYNE MODELS MICHAEL AND MOBY AT RED11 ANNA AT 62 MANAGEMENT AND HANNAH AT UNIQUE MODELS
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ASSISTANT FASHION EDITOR: ETHAN BUTER HAIR ASSISTANT: SHELDEN HADLAND AT RYDER SPECIAL THANKS TO WHITE STUDIOS, BALLY, SHEMI ALOVIC AND KENZA PARENTE
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ALL UNDER ONE ROOF RAVING PHOTOGRAPHY WADED FASHION KELVIN HARRIES HAIR RORY CALASSE MAKEUP ANNETTE MCKENZIE FOR NARS AT MECCA COSMETICA MODEL EVA VARLAMOVA AT IMG
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Opening: Top by Balenciaga, jeans by Karen Walker. Opposite: Top and skirt by Romance Was Born, earrings by Karen Walker, belt by Prada This page: Dress by Romance Was Born, jeans and earrings by Karen Walker
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Previous page: Hoodie by Balenciaga, skirt and pants by Bianca Spender and sneakers by Acne Studios This page: Dress by Prada, pants by Paris Georgia, sneakers by Acne Studios, earings by Karen Walker Opposite: Stocking jumpsuit, briefs and bra by Dior, coat by Bianca Spender, boots by Alexander Wang and earrings by Karen Walker
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Previous page: Top by Balenciaga worn under dress by MSGM, jeans by Karen Walker and boots by Alexander Wang This page: Hoodie by Acne Studios, top underneath by Balenciaga, jeans and earrings by Karen Walker Opposite: Puffer by MSGM, briefs by Dior and sneakers by Acne Studios Retouching: Jaclyn Treu Photo Assistants: Ravin Seanayake and Talia Binki
IGNORE THE DOOR PHOTOGRAPHY DAVID K SHIELDS FASHION KELVIN HARRIES HAIR RAE BORIBOUN MODELS ANTHONY AT FIVE TWENTY MANAGEMENT, NAT AT PRISCILLAS MODELS AND LONDON BORIBOUN
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Opening: Top by Comme des Garcon from matchesfashion.com, jeans by Beams, belt by Off White from mrporter. com, boots by Calvin Klein This page: Shirt, pants and belt bag by Heron Preston and sneakers by Balenciaga, all from mrporter.com Opposite page: Shirt and pants by Dior, sunglasses and belt by Heron Preston for Nike from mrporter.com
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Opposite: Turtleneck, t-shirt, pants and sneakers by Prada This page: Anorak and shorts by Emporio Armani, turtleneck by Calvin Klein and backpack by Off White from mrporter.com
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This page: Turtleneck, t-shirt, shorts, socks and sneakers by Prada Opposite page: Jumper, shirt,pants, belt and crossbody bag by Acne Studios
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This page: Shirt by Dior, sunglasses by Heron Preston for Nike from mrporter. com Opposite page: T-shirt by Heron Preston from mrporter.com over top by Prada, pants and belt by Acne Studios
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This page: Suit by Dior, scarf stylists own, necklace models own Opposite: Turtleneck, jacket, jeans and boots by Calvin Klein Song title: Destiny Street
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THE NEW WORLD PHOTOGRAPHY HECTOR CLARK FASHION BRITTNI MORRISON HAIR AND MAKEUP JUSTIN HENRY USING M.A.C COSMETICS AND ORIBE HAIR STYLING PRODUCTS MODELS GERON AT CHADWICKS ELLE BRITTAIN, OMONDI NICKITAR AND ZACHARY BORZOVOY AT DUVAL AGENCY, GEMMA AT PEOPLE AGENCY
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Opening page: Vintage Courreges sunglasses from Shag, dress by Rixo and boots by Ellery Opposite page: Scarf by Burberry jacket by A.P.C brooches from Global Vintage Clothing This page: Top by Double Rainbow, kilt by Woolmark Company, belt by Vivienne Westwood and earrings by Heart of Bone
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This page: Top by Nagnata from INCU, jeans by Alexander Wang, shoes by Christian Louboutin Opposite page: Full look by A.P.C Paris
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This page:Turtleneck by Uniglo, top by Acne Studios, pants by Stan Ray from Incu, belt by Theirry Mugler, hat by Gucci Opposite page: Jacket by MSGM from INCU and necklace by Heart of Bone
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This page: Hat by Ami from Incu, jumpsuit from Shag Opposite page: Jumper by Calvin Klein and pants from Shag
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This page: Jacket by Proenza Schouler from INCU Opposite page: Top by We11done, jumper by MSGM and earrings by Ella Knight Fashion Assistant: Laura Valquero
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SECOND HAND DAYLIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY ELISABETH WILLIS FASHION SARAH BIRCHLEY HAIR KEIREN STREET AT VIVIENS CREATIVE USING WELLA PROFESSIONALS MAKEUP CAROL MACKIE AT M.A.C COSMETICS MODEL CELINE BETHMANN AT VIVIENS MODEL MANAGEMENT
Opening page: Dress by Michael Lo Sordo, swimsuit by ABYSSE and headband by Prada This page and opposite: Playsuit by Bally, shirt by Matteau and bag by Louis Vuitton
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Opposite: Dress by Coach, slides by Bally and sunglasses by Adam Selman x Le Specs This page: Dress and shorts by Miu Miu and shoes by Prada
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Opposite page: Dress by Armani and shoes by Prada This page: Dress by Prada and bag by Kate Spade Following page: Shirt by Christopher Esber, bikini bottoms by ABYSSE, bag by Prada and sneakers by Bally
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Opposite page: Shirt by Christopher Esber and bag by Prada This page: Bikini by Matteau, shirt by Armani, bomber jacket by Coach and sunglasses by Adam Selman x Le Specs
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Opposite page: Sequinned t shirt by Romance was Born, bike shorts by Michael Lo Sordo and sunglasses by Sun Buddies This page: Wetsuit top by ABYSSE, dress by Dior and slides by Bally Fashion Assistant: Isabella Mamas Song title: Magazine
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MID NIGHT IN MOSCOW PHOTOGRAPHY LUKE FOLEY MARTIN FASHION EDITORS ETHAN BUTLER AND RACHAEL CHURCHWARD HAIR SARA ALSOP USING JOICO MAKEUP ABBIE GARDINER USING M.A.C COSMETICS MODEL KELVIN KONOPLYASOVA AT CLYNE MODELS
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Opening: Jumper by Henrik Vibskov from The Shelter over dress by Kate Sylvester, shoes by Isabel Marant from Workshop This page: Earring by Isabel Marant from Workshop, top and boots by Kate Sylvester, trackpants by Checks over jeans by Abrand Opposite: Jacket by Abrand, jeans by Rollas, shoes by MM6 Maison Margiela from The Shelter, top by Nom*d, socks by Bad Things, dress by RMARU and hat by Kayla Jean
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Opposite: Top by Ganni and earring by Isabel Marant from Workshop, sweater by Henrik Vibskov from The Shelter. This page: Jacket by Henrik Vibskov from The Shelter, skirt by Kate Sylvester, denim jacket by Abrand, socks by Nom*d, shoes by Isabel Marant from 171 Workshop
This page: Jacket by Abrand, polo by Kate Sylvester under top by Nom*d, jeans by Neuw Opposite: Top by Ganni from Workshop over shirt by Kate Sylvester, overalls by Checks, boots by R.M. Williams and socks by Bad Things
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This page: Vest by Rolla’s over top by Kate Sylvester, shorts by Abrand, boots by Ganni from Workshop Opposite: Skirt by See by Chloe, sneakers by Acne Studios and mesh top by Ganni, all from Workshop, hoodie by Checks Thanks to White Studios
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PHOTOGRAPHY DIDIER KASJAN FASHION BRITTNI MORRISON HAIR AND MAKEUP JUSTIN HENRY USING MRSMITH HAIR PRODUCTS AND KOH GEN DOH COSMETICS MODEL VALENTINA SHEMELINA AT CHADWHICK MODELS
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Opening page: Jacket by Bird Skina and earrings by Lucy Folk This page: Sunglasses by Poppy Lissiman, top by Kristen Frewen, skirt by Paris Georgia and heels by Moschino
Opposite page: Glasses by Poppy Lissiman, top and skirt by Christopher Esber, gloves by Habbot and bag by Isabel Marant from INCU This page: Top by Kristen Frewen, skirt by Bird Skin, heels by The Palatines and earrings by Lucy Folk Following page: Dress by Kate Sylvester and corsage from Shag
Opposite page: Sunglasses by Celine, suit by Acne Studios from INCU, bags by Poppy Lissiman, shoes by Senso This page: Scarf by Ganni from INCU, dress by Sir the Label, gloves by Habbot and bag by Staud Following page: Suit by INCU, top and suitcase by Kristen Frewen, tights by Voodoo and heels by Manning Cartell Song title: Buzzcocks
THE LIGHT POURS OUT OF ME PHOTOGRAPHY CHRISTY BUSH FASHION HEATHERMARY JACKSON HAIR AND MAKEUP DENNIS DEVOY AT ION STUDIO NYC AND ART DEPT USING R+CO HAIR PRODUCTS MODEL MAGGIE LAINE AT IMG
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Opening page: Sweater by Aritzia and shorts by Araks This page: Parka by Plan C
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This page: Stylist’s own vintage robes and Adidas sneakers, swimsuit by Araks Opposite page: Bucket hat by Sandy Liang, bra by Araks and shorts by Collina Strada
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This page: Tank by Araks Opposite page: Shirt by Plan C and jeans by Levi’s
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Opposite page: Tank by Araks, shorts by Sandy Liang, stylist’s own vintage Adidas sneakers This page: Sunglasses by Oakley, tank by Araks, shorts by Sandy Liang
This page and opposite: Coat, sweater, and pants by Max Mara Following page: William in hoodie by Sandy Liang, his own cap and bag; Maggie in coat, sweater, and pants by Max Mara
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This page: Bodysuit by Araks Opposite: Sweater by Zadig & Voltaire, panties by Araks
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Opposite page: Blazer by Tibi, shirt by Plan C This page: Sunglasses by Oakley, tank by Araks
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Opposite page: Top by Michael Kors Collection, shorts by Sandy Liang, stylist’s own vintage The North Face jacket and Adidas sneakers This page: Maggie’s own earrings and necklace, bodysuit by Araks Fashion Assistant: Quan Nguyen Song title: Magazine
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ABOUT THE WEATHER PHOTOGRAPHY JASON HENLEY AT TALENTLAND FASHION CHRIS LORIMER HAIR AND MAKEUP CHRIS ARAI USING DE LORENZO MAKEUP FOREVER AND UTOWA MODEL JENNA AT CHADWICKS
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Opening page: Jacket by H Brand, swimsuit by Matteau, stylist’s own vintage Miu Miu shoes Opposite page: Dress and leotard by Christian Dior This page: Headband, dress, belt and socks by Prada
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This page: Coat by Akira Isogawa Opposite page: Top, shirtdress and coat by Akira Isogawa, shoes by COS
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Opposite page: Dress by COS, scarf by Bess This page: Jacket, shirt, belt and socks by Miu Miu
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Opposite page: Shirt, scarf and trousers by Karen Walker This page: Shirt by Miu Miu Fashion Assistant: Tomasz Sierakowski Song title:
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MANIPULATING WOMAN PHOTOGRAPHY JOHNLEVY ROCREO FASHION LENARD JOHNSTON HAIR LENARD JOHNSTON USING JOICO STYLING PRODUCTS MAKEUP ABBIE AHMED USING PAT MCGRATH MAKEUP MODEL CHARLEE AT CLYNE MODELS WEARS DRESSES BY HELEN CHERRY AUTUMN WINTER 2019
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SOMBREROS Y VIDA HUGE, BEAUTIFUL AND MUSICALLY MONSTEROUS. EMINENTLY DADAIST IN ITS CHARACTER. MEXICO CITY IS BORN OF MULTICULTURALISM, THE DIVERSE IDENTITIES DRAWN FROM AN ENDLESS SPREAD OF NEIGHBORHOODS THAT COULD CONFUSE EVEN THE MOST COMPETENT GPS. IT’S A MARVELOUS THING TO DANCE WITH A LEVIATHAN OF THESE DIMENSIONS, SO LONG AS YOU TAKE CARE THAT THE CITY DOESN’T STEP ON YOU. CONTRIBUTING BLACK MAGAZINE PHOTOGRAPHER LUKE FOLEY MARTIN TAKES ON PHOTOGRAPHIC JOURNEY THROUGH ONE OF EARTHS MOST EXCITING CITIES. MADE POSSIBLE THANKS TO AMERICAN AIRLINES.
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“COLOURS PEOPLE AND CDMX”
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“LIMA LIMON”
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“SUPER TACOS”
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PHOTOGRAPHER AND VIDEOGRAPHER CHARLES HOWELLS TAKES US BEHIND THE SCENES OF OUR BALLY SPRING SUMMER 2019 EXCLUSIVE. THANKS TO SHEMI ALOVIC AND KENZA PARENTE
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“I LIKE LARGE PARTIES. THEY’RE SO INTIMATE. AT SMALL PARTIES, THERE ISN’T ANY PRIVACY” - F. SCOTT FITZGERALD AUCKLAND BASED VIDEOGRAPHER JACKSON DOUDNEY TAKES US BEHIND THE SCENES OF OUR HELEN CHERRY AW19 EXCLUSIVE. A FEATURE FROM BLK FASHION 253
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WWW. BLACK MAG AZINE. CO.NZ INSTA GRAM @BLACK _MAG
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