Summer 2023 Edition

Photo by Ivan Samkov: https://www.pexels.com/photo/elegant-roses-in-bloom-4899537/

“Bloom Gardens Magazine is a unique regional gardening magazine advocating organic & sustainable practices.”

Unique gardening challenges we experience in Utah

Utah’s has a unique climate with extreme high/low temperatures, alkaline soil, and frequent drought. Considering it’s the second driest and fourth fastest growing state in the U.S. presents additional challenges of pollution, water shortages, and depleted soil.

Did you know that environmental illnesses could be prevented? Only 0.7% of farms are organic vs. traditional farms. Over 82,000 chemicals are allowed on the market without safety testing, and we use them in our daily lives.

I have seen firsthand the damaging effects this chemically filled world has on all of us. On September 24, 2013, my husband, Kevin was diagnosed with YoungOnset Parkinson’s disease (age 47), caused from his exposure to pesticides during his work career.

What’s the solution?

This is where Bloom Gardens journey begins. Our goal is to create an educational venue, which teaches how to garden & landscape without harmful pesticides, create sustainable gardens, and to help improve the environment within our communities.

What is meant by sustainable gardening?

Sustainable gardening combines organic gardening practices with resource conservation. Generally, sustainable gardening is forward-thinking, it values ecosystem support over aesthetics, makes as little negative impact on the earth as possible, and works with nature instead of against it.

Ramona Borkman Magazine Editor

Magazine Contributors

Localscapes was developed by a team of horticulturists, landscape designers, maintenance pros, irrigation experts and members of the water industry. The goal was simple: create a landscaping approach that takes all the complex and confusing science behind landscape design and simplify it to create landscapes that thrive in Utah. The result was five basic pattern pieces that are easy to understand and apply.

Cynthia Bee works to translate the technical nature of water conservation into publicfriendly messaging as the Outreach Coordinator for the Jordan Valley Water Conservancy District. She holds a Bachelor’s degree in Landscape Architecture from Utah State University. Cynthia is one of the developers of the Localscapes method and has spent the last decade teaching thousands of Utah homeowners how to create landscapes that fit, rather than fight, our challenging climate.

PBS Utah's Modern Gardener is a YouTube channel that celebrates and supports the people, organizations, and communities committed to educating and enlightening Utahns about gardening and landscaping in our unique region.

Modern Gardener host, Cynthia Stringham, brings years of gardening experience to the show. As a master gardener and gardening social influencer, she loves sharing gardening tips and information and learning how others garden. She values the garden journey and understands the diversity in gardening techniques. Join us on Modern Gardener YouTube Channel, Instagram, and Facebook to find inspiration and learn more about gardening in Utah.

The Utah Associated Garden Clubs, Inc. are part of the National Garden Clubs, Inc., sharing its mission to provide education, resources, and networking opportunities for our members, and to promote the love of gardening, floral design, and civic and environmental responsibility. We currently have 10 member clubs in the state of Utah, with 285 individual members.

Progressive Plants

is the largest production nursery in Utah, providing plant material for professional landscapers, developers, and homeowners throughout the Intermountain West. Each year they grow hundreds of thousands of trees, shrubs, and perennials right here in the Salt Lake Valley, and have loads of plants available for purchase year-round. They are also wellconnected with growers throughout the Western United States, so they can provide almost anything you need for your outdoor projects. With more than 35 years of growing experience, they know what will grow in your area and how to ensure its success.

The Intermountain region can be a challenging place to grow a beautiful landscape with its extreme temperatures, tough soil conditions, and limited water supply. In fact, irrigation water from Utah Lake is loaded with dissolved solids that will actually kill many of your favorite plants. Even so, with the right plants and just a little knowledge, you can have an outstanding outdoor escape no matter where you live in this region. At Progressive Plants you’ll find both thousands of plants perfectly suited for your yard and, a staff filled with experienced horticulturalists eager to share their knowledge with you! Learn more at Progressiveplants.com

Skylar Christensen is a seed specialist and brand manager at the Lehi-based seed company, Nature’s Seed (www.naturesseed.com). With an educational background in agricultural communications and plant science from Utah State University, he’s spent most of his life involved in landscaping, lawncare, and the seed industry. He lives in Saratoga Springs with his wife Sarah and daughter Isla. When he’s not pushing the limits of his HOA or disregarding plant hardiness zones, he can be found snowboarding and exploring the mountains of the Wasatch Front.

Magazine Contributors

Amanda Hammond began her floral career at a small local shop in 1998. In 2005, she joined the Harmons Floral Shop team and took advantage of ways to progress in the floral industry.

Her mentor and trainer, Alma Filipovic, sought ways to educate and sought unique ways to educate and train associates, and with her help and the support of Harmons, Hammond became one of few Certified Floral Designers in Utah, now fulfilling her role as Harmons Floral Production Manager. Hammond has competed and placed in competitions with Utah Floral Association, including Art in Bloom and Designer of the Year.

Hammond and Harmons are working to rebuild the floral industry network in Utah along with other extremely talented floral designers and shop owners, reigniting the passion among the Utah Floral Industry.

I started gardening long before moving to Utah two decades ago (from Sweden). Little did I know about some of the challenges I would be faced with in my own garden. About a decade ago, I started and ran a small landscaping company for a few years.

I saw and experienced some of the major challenges that many homeowners faced in their own landscape.

The number one problem was plant choice. They either had to replace plants that were struggling due to climate related issues or the wrong plant that was planted in the wrong place. Meanwhile I enrolled in horticulture classes, and certified as a Master Gardener and started volunteering in community gardens to have a better understanding of plants in harsh conditions.

As I continue my personal journey of education and training, I have discovered a passion within sustainable gardening practices.

With more than 120 faculty located in more than 30 offices scattered throughout the state, USU Extension has never been more prepared to provide unbiased research and educational resources and programs to meet the needs of Utahns. Our most important goal is to help improve the lives of individuals and families in every corner of our great state.

Climate changes are requiring gardeners to make needed adjustments.

The Utah Native Plant Society was formed in late 1978 specifically out of a growing concern for imperiled rare plant species. Some of those original ideals and concerns were expressed in Goals and Objectives of the Utah Native Plant Society presented by Stanley Welsh, one of the co-founders of the organization, in September of 1978. (Co-founder and long time former board member Dick Hildreth was honored by us with a lifetime service and achievement award in March, 2005, see UNPS recognizes co-founder Dick Hildreth. See also UNPS recognizes Duane Atwood with Lifetime Achievement Award in March, 2008).

At its core UNPS is a conservation and educational organization with programs and committees focused around the protection of Utah rare native plants, Utah native plant conservation including anything that threatens the well-being of Utah native plant species and communities (not the least of which relates to invasive species), the use of Utah native plants for landscaping and restoration and research relating to Utah native plant species. www.unps.org

Kevin Borkman has worked in the green industry for over 40 years, beginning at the age of 12, by mowing neighbor’s lawns. He has a Bachelor of Science degree in Horticulture and a Master of Public Administration degree from Brigham Young University. Some of Kevin’s career highlights include: Grounds Manager at the Oakland, California Temple and Sports Field Supervisor at Brigham Young University. Kevin loves plants and enjoys offering free gardening advice to his family and friends.

By John Stireman, Co-editor of the UNPS newsletter, the Sego Lily

Ramona Borkman has developed a passion for gardening as she has spent time and effort caring for her own garden. Flowers are her true love, but she also enjoys growing vegetables and fruit organically to improve she and her family’s health. Ramona desires to inspire others to grow nutritious food for better health and self-sufficiency. She has earned her Master Gardener certification and continues to educate herself as she learns through trial and error, so she can share that knowledge with others. She has also earned her Bachelor of Science degree in Education from Brigham Young University.

Design Your Yard with Confidence

You have questions. We have answers, and more plants than you can imagine!

You can bring the healing, rejuvenating power of nature into your yard simply by surrounding yourself with trees, shrubs, and perennials. It’s almost magical.

Knowing which plants will work best in your yard, however, can be tricky without years of experience or horticultural training. However, after just a few minutes with us, you’ll have a much better understanding of what will grow best in your area, how your water source will affect your plants, and which plants will best deliver the ambiance you’re looking for in your yard.

At Progressive Plants.com You Can:

• Browse our online catalog by category: waterwise, deer resistant, ornamentals, etc.

• Order plants online for easy pick up or delivery

• Chat directly with a horticulturalist

• Schedule a FREE tour on a golf cart.

• Contact amazing landscape designers

• Sign up for our newsletter

SAVE 15% on orders of $450 or more with promo code BLOOM15 (Offer ends 7/30/2023)

Progressive Plants

10252 South Bacchus Hwy Copperton, UT 84006 801.565.7333

Localscapes

Utah’s Statewide Landscape Incentive Program

By Cynthia Bee, Jordan Valley Water Conservancy District

Utah got a much-needed breather this spring after the challenges presented by historic drought the past few years. As we see the high volume of spring runoff and flooding, it’s tempting to think that our water problems are solved, but the benefits of one historic year of high-volume snowpack will melt away without our continued commitment to conservation. Our supply isn’t only about how much we “get” but rather how much of it we can “keep.”

Thousands of Utah homeowners from all over the state have already “Localscaped” and their results prove that we don’t have to choose between water-efficiency and attractive landscapes, we can enjoy both. As a result of the success of these early-adopters, funding to help more Utahns achieve similar results has followed. Thanks to action from the Utah State Legislature and water districts, the first statewide landscape incentive programs in the United States, managed through Utah Water Savers, is now available in qualified communities. If you’re hoping to complete a landscape project, and receive cash back for your efforts, here’s what you need to know:

1) Incentives are offered to transform existing landscapes in communities that have taken proactive measures to ensure long-term sustainability. To be a “qualifying community,” the city or unincorporated county must adopt water-efficiency standards for new construction. Standards ensure that new growth bears more of the responsibility for its own impact on our shared water supply. Find out if you live in a qualified community here: Conserve Water Utah.

2) Is your city not on the list of qualified communities? Contact the Community Development Department to find out if they are currently in the process of adopting water-efficiency standards for new construction. Many additional cities are currently considering these changes, your support matters.

3) The Landscape Incentive program is designed to provide participants with a cash-back incentive for the permanent removal and replacement of lawn with water-efficient landscaping. The exact plant coverage requirements and percentage of lawn allowed vary by region and are based on the best practices for each region.

Incentive Program Continued

Santa Clara - Localscapes design without lawn

Incentive Program Continued

4) Incentives cannot be paid out retroactively thus potential participants must wait until the project is approved to begin work. Lawn to be removed must be actively growing to qualify.

5) Participants are required to attend a free landscape class offered either online or in person to learn the proper implementation and landscape management techniques for long-term project success. Both the required and optional support classes are offered through Localscapes.

6) Exact incentive amounts will vary based on location and project parameters. Interested property owners should visit Utah Water Savers and follow the promptings to input information that will generate an estimated payout before applying. Incentives are up to $3 per square foot.

7) Larger projects will require a basic project plan that is drawn to scale. This plan can be created by a professional or a homeowner. Our online Localscapes Design Workshop is available to help those who wish to create their own plan but require some assistance to do so. Access our free, online Design Workshop to create your design.

8) Projects must be completed within a year. We recommend planning for your ultimate project area, even if you’ll complete the work in multi-year phases. Minimum project size is 200 square feet.

You may decide to do your landscape projects yourself, but you don’t have to do them alone. Free resources are available to help you create your ideal Utah yard every step of the way!

Incentive Program Continued

West Jordan - Localscapes design (planted in 2016, now 7 years later)

Draper - Localscapes lawnless design (planted in 2021, now 2 years later)

Photo by monicore: https://www.pexels.com/photo/purple-petaled-flower-134063/

Nature’s Seed

Utah Treasures: Native Penstemon

Wildflowers in the Landscape

By Skylar Christensen, Nature’s Seed

My fascination with penstemon wildflowers began with an unintentional massacre. Growing up in the foothills of rural northern Utah, I remember a particular patch of electric blue penstemons growing along the roadside near my home. I called them “bluebells” at the time, oblivious to their more common name of “beardtongue”. I remember my mother often commenting as we drove past, wishing she could have such beautiful blue flowers in her garden.

Wasatch penstemon

One day I decided to surprise my mother by fulfilling her wish. I attached a small trailer to our four -wheeler and drove to the penstemon patch. There in my youthful ignorance, I proceeded to dig up every last plant, leaving nothing behind but scars in the ground as evidence of my floral theft. I then drove home with my trailer full of pilfered penstemon and transplanted them into the garden. Mom would be so thrilled!

My memory is fuzzy recalling how my mother reacted, but I do remember what followed. For the first couple days the garden was spectacular. I really thought I’d pulled it off. But after a while the leaves shriveled, the blooms faded, and eventually every one of those beautiful vibrant blue wildflowers died. What I failed to understand at the time was their reliance on their taproot; a survival tool common to many of our native perennial wildflowers. By digging up fully established penstemon, I had severed them from their life-sustaining tether.

Later in life I would learn how to successfully transplant penstemon while still in their first-year rosette form, but this experience has always stuck with me.

Penstemon, or beardtongue, is a uniquely North American genus containing over 270 species. Their range stretches from Alaska to Guatemala, but most are native to the Intermountain West with Utah being the epicenter of penstemon diversity. Over 100 species of penstemon can be found here, from mountain tops to valley floors. While the sego lily’s status of state flower may be untouchable thanks to its legendary role in Utah history, I would argue that penstemons are actually more Utahn than the beloved but rarely seen lily. As for what penstemon species would be the top candidate for a theoretical state flower replacement, that’s up for debate.

One of my favorite aspects of penstemon wildflowers is their ability to thrive with neglect. As a somewhat lazy gardener, this is probably why I’ ve always had good success with them in the landscape.

Utah Treasures Continued

Unlike other ornamentals that require rich soils, regular moisture, mulching, fertilizer, and the occasional pep talk, penstemons couldn’t care less. If fact, too much attention will kill them faster than anything else. But be prepared to play the long game. Growing and establishing penstemon wildflowers from seed is a lesson in patience. Most seeds require stratification (exposure to moisture and cold) for a period of time in order to break dormancy. I find it’s easiest to direct sow seeds in the fall, let them overwinter in the soil, and germinate in the spring. They’ll spend their first year in rosette form, growing their taproot and biding their time. If you’re hoping for any successful transplanting, it’ s during the very early rosette stage where you’ll want to make your attempt. Wait too long and it will be too late as I found out as a child.

Here are my top three native penstemons to grow in the garden:

Mountain Penstemon

Easy to establish and long-lived, Penstemon strictus is probably the most well-known and commonly encountered species around the Intermountain West. In fact, Rocky Mountain penstemon has been known to establish a little too easily in some conditions, so be sure to remove the spent flower stalks after blooming if you’d like to avoid creep. Unlike other penstemon species, Rocky Mountain seems to handle a bit more shade and moisture. Colors range from purple, violet, pink, and blue with purple being the most common.

Rocky

Penstemon palmeri, commonly called Palmer’s penstemon, has always been a top performer in my landscapes. It’ s also one of the few fragrant species, filling the June air with a sweet smelling perfume. Some folks describe the scent as rose-like while others compare it to grapes. The Palmer can grow quite tall too. I’ ve grown specimens that have reached six feet, but 3-4 feet seems to be the most common height. But what interests me the most about the Palmer is its cheerful, puffy clusters of pale pink flowers jutting up from the base on tall spikes. Look closer and you’ll spot a fuzzy yellow staminode, or

“beardtongue”, sitting just inside the snapdragon-like blossom. As a bonus, gardens containing Palmer’ s penstemon will attract the biggest bumblebees you’ ve ever seen.

Firecracker penstemon, Penstemon eatonii, is another staple in my landscapes. This is a species that truly lives up to its common name. Every June I look forward to its vivid scarlet-red flower spikes contrasted by dark, glossy evergreen foliage. Unlike the more puffed-up blossoms of the Palmer, firecracker penstemon features long, tubular flowers that hummingbirds find particularly attractive. I prefer to plant this species in masses rather than individually. The effect can be stunning, especially when paired with other dark green plants for a complementary color scheme. Rock gardens are also a great location for the firecracker. Scatter the seeds into soil pockets around boulders where irrigation doesn’t reach.

Palmer’s Penstemon

Firecracker Penstemon

As for the penstemon that first grabbed my attention as a child, I’ve since found more growing in the area and have identified it as Penstemon cyananthus, or Wasatch penstemon. This higher elevation penstemon seems to glow with a bright, electric blue rarely found in nature. I consider it my favorite penstemon, but it’s actually one I’ve never grown... yet. When I do, I’ll try not to murder them this time.

Penstemon wildflowers are a delight when spotted in their native environment or when cultivated in our ornamental gardens. They symbolize the tough, resilient spirit of all Utahns: prospering in harsh environments, forming thriving communities, and showcasing diverse backgrounds and strengths. Sow these native treasures in your garden this year!

“Money can’t buy happiness. But it can buy plants, and that’s the same thing.”

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Five Ways to Maximize

By Maria Fox, Time2Grow Garden Coach & Consultant

As a Garden Coach and a Consultant, I get around quite a bit (Northern Utah area). I believe I have seen everything from very expensive high-end gardens to humble smaller gardens. Today I want to address how we can design a landscape that is beautiful and yet budget friendly.

Our homes will always be one of the biggest investments we will make during our lifetime. That said, as much as a yard is part of that investment, it can be painful to spend thousands of dollars for curb appeal and a backyard. I usually tell people, just as there is no such thing as ‘No maintenance yard’, there is no such thing as a cheap landscape. However, there is such a thing as ‘low maintenance’ and budget friendly landscape.

So here are five suggestions on how to maximize and stretch your budget in your personal green space.

Your Garden Budget

Write Down Your priorities

Identifying your needs and wants is crucial if you’re on a budget.

Do you need a vegetable garden? Do you need a play area for the kids? How about fencing and some outdoor furniture? Truly the list of needs and wants can get long. That is why making a priority list is important. If you are on a budget, accept the fact that it will not all get done in one year. Remember, gardening is a journey and it’s okay to enjoy the slow ride. Writing down and making a plan will provide you with a guideline and you will avoid costly mistakes and regrets.

2 – Do Your Homework

Consider your soil, climate, and weather. There is nothing more frustrating than to install a landscape only to have half the plants die within the first two years (no joke I see this often). This is the opposite of budget friendly. Unfortunately, it is a fact that Utah is NOT an ideal place to have a landscape or to garden. You can have the greenest thumb in the world, but Utah climate, soil and water will throw you for a loop. But don’t get discouraged, just do your homework.

3 – Hardscape

We all know that hardscape can get pricey, and the sky is the limit of options. I think we all can agree most of us would love a sitting area (preferably covered). How about gazebo, trellises, firepits, garden beds, playsets, water feature and so on? After Robert and I bought our current home, we quickly discovered that a new deck would never be in our budget. After some consideration we decided to DIY our patio by our kitchen door with pavers and chat for literally a tenth of the cost. I wanted a gazebo but having one custom made was not in the budget, so we purchased a kit and built it ourselves. Landscape lights and ornaments such as benches and birdbaths, consider checking online such as FB Marketplace or KSL, it will truly surprise you what people will sell for cheap or give away. Take advantage of all the hardscape resources that are available for free.

Garden Budget Continued

4 – Plants

Buying plants can seem really expensive part of a landscape, but it does not have to be that way. I know from experience, including many of my garden friends who have shared cuttings, started flowers from seed, divided perennials or purchased plants on end of season sale in the Fall. If you were to visit my garden, you probably wouldn’t notice the small imperfections that some of my shrubs and trees have (My husband calls them character). Buying at the end of season doesn’t always help with advance planning, but if you have an idea of what you want, you can find some amazing deals (like my Kwanza tree that I bought three years ago for $27). Look for deals not just at your nearby nursery or box stores but be willing to drive a little if it means saving money (even after gas is considered). Robert and I call these “joyrides”. We love driving up north from where we live where plants are at times 30% less.

Saving Water

If we are talking about saving money in landscaping, we might as well talk about being water-wise. Mulching is an excellent way to not only enhance the look of our landscape but also a great way to cut back on water usage. Mulching with organic matter helps with retaining moisture around plants. Ask around for local city green waste landfills that compost and sell to the public. We have always bought our mulch from the local green waste plant. Another big-ticket item in our landscape are our lawns. The less the better.

Lawns require a lot of water and feed to stay lush and green, instead choose native plants that thrive and need minimal water. All this water saving is not only beneficial for our survival in our desert called Utah, but in the long run will save on our water bills.

Conclusion

As I am writing this, I realize that it’s taken my husband and I four years to get our landscape to a place where we feel comfortable with. But it has taken hundreds of hours literally. Use your skills and be willing to learn some new ones. Some say DIY is time and time is money too, that is true for sure, but if your budget is tight and you have the time, then go for it, dare to create your personal oasis, AND don’t forget to have fun!!!

How to Properly Plant a Tree

By Ashley Swansong and Christina Van Otterloo of PBS Utah’s Modern Gardener

Looking to spruce up your outdoor experience? Ignore decor and turn to the trees. Trees do wonders for your outdoors; quieting environmental noises, cooling off your property, filtering the air, and providing habitat for birds and other wildlife. But planting a tree takes some planning and preparation especially when planting it correctly.

We met with master arborist Will Pruitt, of TreeMendous Arbor Care, to learn how to correctly plant a tree so it will grow and thrive for years to come. “I’d say 9 out of 10 trees I see are planted incorrectly,” said Pruitt, whose specialty is tree diagnostics, but whose passion is tree planting.

Pruitt has seen too many improperly planted trees across Utah, which he says will ultimately result in the tree dying sooner than later. But with a little guidance, he says anyone can have a healthy, long-lasting tree. This step-by-step guide will show you just how to correctly plant a tree.

Cynthia Stringham (L) of Modern Gardener and Will Pruitt of TreeMendous Arbor Care with a newly planted tree.

Before You Plant

A few things to consider before planting a tree: season, type of tree, and location.

In Utah, it’s best to plant in the spring or fall, when the ground is thawing and it isn’t too cold.

And when choosing your tree and its location, consider factors like the tree’s estimated size, the amount of shade it will provide, and whether its growth could cause any structural damage. 811 is the national “call-before-you-dig” number to call to make sure you won't be hitting any utility lines.

Once you have those settled, it’ s time to prep.

Start by Exposing the Root Flare

Contrary to popular practice, “don’t start by digging the hole!” says Pruitt. The first thing you’ll need to do is expose the tree’s root flare and measure the root ball to

learn just how big your hole needs to be. The size of the hole is crucial to the tree's development and it’ s usually a lot smaller than the container the tree came in.

The root flare is the basal area of the tree where it begins to flare out below the trunk, just above the main branching roots. It’s usually buried about 6-8 inches below the surface of the soil your tree came in. This excess soil is added at the nursery, especially if they had to replant the tree in a larger pot.

Pruitt describes root flare as the heart of the tree, pumping water up and down the arbor and providing it with oxygen.

To expose the root flare, remove the tree from the container and cut off the excess soil at the top using a tool like a sod knife.

Sever Girdling Roots and Loosen Root Ball

While you’re exposing the root flare, you’re likely to come across girdling roots. They’re often only the diameter of a grain of rice! Using snips, sever any girdling roots. If left, they could grow around the base of the tree's trunk or around its main roots and essentially strangle the tree.

Once the flare is exposed, make two to three incisions down the sides of the root ball to sever the roots encircling it. This directs the roots to grow out in search of water, which will establish a strong foundation.

Finally, tip the tree to massage and loosen the bottom of the root ball.

Final treated root ball with root flare exposed, girdling roots severed, and root ball loosened.

Tree Planting Continued

Measure the Root Ball

Before digging the hole, start by measuring the width of the root ball from across the top. Your hole needs to be twice the diameter of your root ball. In our case, the diameter of our root ball was 10 inches, so our hole’s diameter was 20 inches wide. Considerably smaller than the container the tree came in!

The depth of your root ball is important. You don’t want your hole to be too deep. Pruitt stresses that your tree should be sitting on undisturbed soil. That way your tree isn’t sitting in a “bowl of water” which can cause root rot. Your root flare should sit 1 inch above your finished grade, or the final surface area of your planted tree.

Will Pruitt and Cynthia Stringham measuring the treated root ball to determine the size of the tree's hole.

Measuring

the hole

Dig Your Tree’s Hole

Take a shovel and make a circle the size of your hole. Start by removing only half the depth of your hole with the shovel. Carefully set aside the soil you're removing so you can later use it to backfill the hole.

After digging halfway to three quarters down with the shovel, use a hand tool to dig the rest of your hole by hand. Pruitt used a Japanese hand hoe and tiller. By digging the remainder of the hole by hand you're less likely to dig the hole too deep. A tool like a hand rake also prevents glazing; the smooth, hard edge created by the spade of a shovel. Glazing of a hole restricts the growth of roots and the flow of water.

Nourishing Your Tree

Before planting your tree, Pruitt recommends taking a few handfuls of biochar and sprinkling them in the hole. This high-carbon soil amendment helps retain water and nutrients in the soil.

Next, place your tree in the hole and backfill it using the native soil. Pruitt highly recommends using the same soil you dug from your hole. Roots may not establish a strong system in potting soil from a nursery because they’re less likely to start to grow outward in search of nutrients in the native soil. You can alternate backfilling with soil and amending with biochar as you continue to fill your hole.

Ensure roots aren’t encircling the root ball, but try to direct them outward. Halfway through filling the hole, pour 1.5 to 2 gallons of water around the root ball.

Using your hands and upper body weight, gently pack the soil. Pruitt said to not step or stomp on the soil.

If the soil is too compacted it can restrict the roots and slow water seepage.

Once planted, generously add compost and wood chips around your tree, about twice the size of your hole. The wood chips will retain moisture, while the compost will encourage the roots to reach for nutrients.

Watering Your Tree

Depending on the weather and moisture, a newly planted tree should only need 5 to 7 gallons of water every two weeks.

And voilà! Your newly planted tree is ready to grow into a beautiful arbor.

Step-by-step Video

For a step-by-step tree planting demonstration and our complete interview with Will Pruitt, Watch our Modern Gardener episode “How to Properly Plant a Tree” https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=sg1LWzd1JnQ

Know What’s Below Before You Dig!

Blue Stakes of Utah 811 is issuing a safety reminder to Utah Residence.

“Call 811 Before You DIG” this not only applies to the professional contractor but to all homeowners.

Anyone who wants to put a shovel, or any other kind of digging equipment in the ground is required by law to Call 811 or contact bluestakes.org to “Submit a Ticket” to have the underground utility lines located and marked with paint and/or flags. This is for everyone’s safety. It’s a FREE service and remember, It’s the LAW!

Protecting the underground facilities that we all rely on every day is a shared responsibility.

Please do your part and remember to contact Blue Stakes at least two full business days before beginning your digging project. Check out our website for more information

https://www.bluestakes.org and to download our APP and Excavators’ Guidebook.

Planted tree showing root flare (about 7 inches) above final grade and woodchips.

Progressive Plants

Creating an outstanding landscape in the wake of the Emerald Ash Borer

By Progressive Plants

It sounds like a scene from a science fiction novel. Sometime around 1990, a small, green, alien invader entered the U.S. undetected. Quietly, it attached to a host and gnawed the life out of it as it multiplied. Spreading from host to host, its numbers grew exponentially. From its early beginnings in a small area near the Great Lakes, it spread eastward to the coast. From there, it turned south, north, and west, leaving death and destruction in its wake. It has invaded much of North America, and now these emerald green invaders are drawing dangerously close to home.

The trouble is, this isn’t fiction. This alien invader is called the Emerald Ash Borer. It’s so small, you can fit a half-dozen of them on a penny, and yet, researchers have found nothing that can stop it.

Emerald Ash Borer (Agrilus planipennis) on a leaf.

Photo by Debbie Miller USDA Forest Service.

The Emerald Ash Borer is native to Russia and Northern China. The initial infestation most likely started from a small number of beetles that came to the U.S. via hardwood packing materials. By 2002, many ash trees in southeastern Michigan were dead or dying. By October 2018, it was found in 35 states, and five Canadian provinces and it’s still spreading. Native ash trees in North America have little or no resistance to Emerald Ash Borer, and natural enemies, such as woodpeckers and the Pilose Checkered Beetle, have little effect when borer populations are high. (The Pilose Checkered Beetle only exists east of Minnesota, so they have even fewer predators here in the west.)

So, what can we do?

Often we can prevent borer infestations by maintaining healthy trees, but the Emerald Ash Borer will infect all ash trees. All varieties. Healthy or sick. Forest Service officials are monitoring and trapping invasive insects throughout the state and have not yet found any Emerald Ash Borers in Utah. We want it to stay that way.

Emerald Ash Borer (Agrilus planipennis) galleries and size comparison.

Photo by Eric R Day Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University.

Emerald Ash Borer Continued

The horticultural community is still searching for an effective way to retaliate against this invader, so for now, all we can do is work to slow its spread. This nasty creature has been carried to other locations through the transport of infested trees and wood (particularly firewood). Because we have native Ash trees growing in most of our wilderness areas that would be obliterated by this insect, state officials have closed the door to ash tree sales of all kinds, and they do not allow wood (including fire wood) to come over our border from infested locations.

Ash trees are beautiful shade trees beloved for their growth habit and outstanding fall color, but if you had plans for an ash tree in your landscape, you’ll need to find other options. They are simply not for sale here. Luckily, there are several amazing trees that will fit beautifully in your landscape in place of an ash. We’ll share some of our favorites with you today.

Emerald Ash Borer Larva have no legs, just protruding nubs along their long, segmented bodies. They bore sshaped galleries in the cambium layer of ash trees that destroy the tree within a very short period of time.

Photo by Houping Liu, Michigan State University.

Zelkova

We feel like the Zelkova tree is underutilized in Utah landscapes. It’ s a beautifully shaped, low maintenance tree that offers quick shade. Zelkova's leaf structure is similar to an ash tree and their fall color varies from green (or no change) to yellow, bronze, orange, and red, depending on the cultivar. They grow easily in Utah and require little water once they’re established. Plus, from what we’ve observed so far, they’re fairly resistant to pests. There are several varieties of Zelkova trees with varying growth habits to suit your landscape. Most are upright and vase-shaped.

Zelkova will provide you with shade fairly quickly along with a really nicely shaped tree. Most cultivars have outstanding fall color. Photo by Progressive Plants.

For great fall color, small, persistent, edible fruits, and a variety of sizes and shapes, It’s hard to beat hackberry trees. Photo by Progressive Plants.

Hackberry

Hackberry is a hardy shade tree. Its growth habit ranges from a neatly upright oval crown to broad and loose, and there’s even a narrow, columnar option, depending on the cultivar you choose. Hackberry bark develops an interesting, warty appearance with age. It’s highly tolerant of urban conditions and not particular about soil type. Once established, it's drought tolerant and salt tolerant, so it can handle water from Utah Lake. It also does fine with occasional standing water. Its inconspicuous green flowers attract pollinators, and its teardrop shaped leaves become yellow in the fall.

Small, dark purple fruit is persistent into the winter months, attracting birds to your landscape almost year round. Hackberries have a thin, very sweet purple skin surrounding a crunchy shell with a tiny nut inside. All hackberries are edible and highly nutritious. They have been consumed by humans for millennia and are, actually, one of the first known foods that humans have eaten and stored.

Maackia amurensis

This is one of the few trees that doesn’t have a common name. It’s actually related to the pea family, similar to honeylocust and Kentucky Coffee Tree.

Maackia MaacNificent is the most vigorous Maackia we have seen so far, with upright branching that forms a beautiful, symmetrical vase shape. Spike-like racemes of white flowers decorate the tree in early summer and its green foliage has a silvery glow in spring. It’s a slower-growing tree that will eventually reach around 30 feet high in your landscape. Prune it in the summer after flowering. Pruning in winter causes excessive bleeding and the wounds heal more slowly. Maackia are resistant to pests and diseases.

Maackia MaacNificent has a little bit of everything spring flowers, deep green foliage, a nice size, and interesting structure. Leaves don’t have a notable fall color, but mature trees will develop exfoliating bark. Photo by J Frank schmidt.

Oak trees

Yes, oak trees are slow-growing and certain varieties hold on to their brown leaves throughout the winter. But that's also what makes them unique. They provide shade and a focal point for your landscape with year-round interest. They also attract birds and other wildlife to your yard by offering food and shelter. There are so many varieties of oak trees that you’re sure to find one perfectly suited for your yard. Oak leaves vary greatly from cultivar to cultivar, so you can have a lot of variety simply by switching up the oaks in your yard. Some of our favorites include Columnar

English Oak, Crimson Spire, Chinkapin Oak, and Kindred Spirit, but all of them will do well in the right situation.

Elm Trees

The Siberian Elm gives elm trees a bad name, but not all elm trees are invasive. In fact, many elms are stunning landscape trees. The Frontier Elm is a deciduous upright, pyramidal tree with proven superior resistance to Dutch elm disease. It features smooth, gray-green bark and remarkable red to purple fall foliage. Accolade Elm is a vase-shaped, medium to large, deciduous tree with glossy dark green foliage and strong yellow color in the fall. Another favorite is the Allee Elm. This lacebark Elm is very resistant to Dutch Elm disease and elm leaf beetle. Its upright, spreading shape is similar to the American Elm, but Allee features ornamental exfoliating bark for yearround interest. It’s a good urban street tree with glossy leaves that turn orange to rust red in autumn.

Kindred Spirit, Crimson Spire, and Chinkapin Oak trees all have leaves that are quite different. Photo by Progressive Plants.

Accolade Elm, shown here, is a fantastic tree for Utah landscapes.

Photo by Progressive Plants.

Honeylocust

Honeylocust trees are common in Utah for a variety of reasons. They grow well in our soil, don’t require a lot of water, and tolerate irrigation water from any source, even Utah Lake water with its nasty dissolved solids. Their compound leaves are green from spring until fall when they turn bright golden yellow. They’re a great shade tree for filtered shade. Older cultivars of this tree sport some impressive thorns, but most nursery varieties nowadays are thornless. You can even find honeylocust trees with ruby-tinted leaves!

Hornbeam

This beautiful tree is a vigorous grower that’s easy to care for. It has a well-defined shape with a strong central leader. The serrated edged green leaves turn yellow, orange, or red in the fall, depending on the cultivar. It’s an excellent small shade tree that prefers full sun to part shade. Most cultivars (but not all) prefer a little shade, especially in the afternoon.

So, even though we’re fighting a serious battle to save our ash trees from the Emerald Ash Borer, we can be grateful that this invader is host-specific. We can still enjoy a fantastic landscape by loading our yards with trees they don’t like to eat.

The Emerald Ash Borer is now considered the most destructive forest pest ever seen in North America. The scope of this problem has reached billions of dollars. To learn more about it, visit the USDA Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service. If you believe you have sighted Emerald Ash Borer in your area, contact your county extension office or the nearest Department of Agriculture office. You may also contact the USDA Emerald Ash Borer Hotline toll-free at (866) 322-4512.

Honeyocusts, like the Skyline Honeylocust shown here, have a beautiful shape and bring dappled shade to your yard.

Photo by Progressive Plants.

Hornbeam trees are a fantastic option if you’re looking for a tree that will be happy in an area with partial shade.

Photo by Progressive Plants.

Utah Native Plant Society

Grow the Native Sundancer Daisy, Tetraneuris ivesiana

Also known as Perky Sue, Angelita daisy, or Ives' four-nerved daisy

By John Stireman, Co-editor of the

UNPS newsletter, the Sego Lily

Tetraneuris ivesiana in habitat. The species ranges through Arizona, Colorado, New Mexico, and Utah. The image for Tetraneuris acaulis v. ivesiana at High Country Gardens online appears to be T. acaulis v. arizonica. https://www.highcountrygardens.com/perennial-plants/ unique-plants/hymenoxys-acaulis-ivesiana Habitat photo courtesy of Andre Zharkikh.

The garden nursery offering of ‘Sundancer Daisy’ is a medium size perennial of about eight to twelve inches tall in flower and spreading at the base up to about eight inches wide with narrow, almost grass-like leaves in a tuft only a few inches high. Flower stems are long, thin, and almost leafless, each topped with a bright yellow daisy that is easily animated by a breeze, making Sundancer Daisy a fitting name. And those stems never flop. Flowering can begin in early summer and I have had my plants in flower well into November.

This is an excellent landscaping perennial and an easy plant to grow, reveling in full sunlight and requiring little water once established and requiring minimal maintenance. In my garden, the foliage dies down completely by mid-winter and, in early spring, the dry remains can be cut completely to the ground without fear of damaging the plant since new growth appears in late spring. The nursery trade appears to have settled upon ‘Sundancer Daisy’ as a common name for Tetraneuris ivesiana. It can also be found in garden literature, and possibly at nurseries, as Tetraneuris acaulis v. ivesiana or Hymenoxys acaulis v. ivesiana. The similar, but smaller and highly variable in nature, Tetraneuris acaulis is often offered and differs in stature as well as usually having shorter and wider leaves and, unlike T. ivesiana, maintains a compact rosette of evergreen leaves through winter.

https://conservationgardenpark.org/plants/1735/western-sundancer-daisy

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tetraneuris_ivesiana

https://www.swcoloradowildflowers.com/Yellow%20Enlarged%20Photo%20Pages/tetraneuris%20ivesiana.htm

Tetraneuris acaulis in a garden setting. This is a taller form with long leaves. Some forms are hardly two inches in height.

The “What To Do’ s” for Fresh-cut Flowers

By Amanda Hammond, Harmons Floral Production Manager and Certified Florist

Who doesn’t love adding a burst of color and fragrance in the form of fresh-cut flowers? Whether you've received a beautiful bouquet as a gift or picked up some blooms at your local Harmons, it's important to know how to care for them. Here are some easy tips to help you keep your cut flowers looking fresh and vibrant:

Trim the stems diagonally: Before putting your flowers in water, trim about an inch off the bottom of each stem at a diagonal angle. This helps the flowers absorb water more easily.

Use the right vase: Choose a vase that is the right size and shape for your bouquet. Make sure it is clean and filled with fresh water.

Change the water: Every two to three days, change the water in your vase and trim the stems again. This helps to prevent bacteria from building up and prolongs the life of your flowers.

Keep them cool: Cut flowers do best in a cool environment, so keep them away from direct sunlight, heat sources, and drafts.

Add flower food: Many floral shops include packets of flower food with their bouquets, which can help to nourish the flowers and extend their lifespan. Follow the instructions on the packet for best results. Or, if you don’t have flower food, add one teaspoon of sugar instead.

By following these simple steps, you can keep your Harmons flowers looking beautiful and fresh for longer, bringing a touch of nature and beauty into your home.

Photo by Karolina Grabowska: https://www.pexels.com/photo/crop-florist-arranging-flowers-in-shop-

Bellevue Botanical Garden

By Ramona Borkman, Magazine Editor

A few years ago, my husband and I planned a trip to Seattle, Washington and Victoria, British Columbia, Canada. As we were making our itinerary and contemplating what we wanted to see and do in those areas, our son-in-law suggested that we visit Bellevue Botanical Garden in Bellevue, Washington. He knew how much we enjoy touring beautiful gardens and love being in nature. He had visited the gardens while living in the area a few years prior and felt like it would be worth our time to visit.

Bellevue Botanical Garden is a 53acre urban refuge in the heart of Bellevue, Washington. The land on which Bellevue Botanical Garden is located is the ancestral homelands of the Coast Salish people, the traditional home of all tribes and bands within the Duwamish and Snoqualmie Indian Tribe.

They honor and respect the original caretakers of the land and strive to honor their heritage.

The garden is comprised of multiple gardens which give it character and interest as you experience each unique area. Each garden has a natural flow as you meander through it, and it highlights the plant varieties growing there. The Fuchsia Garden, Lost Meadow Trail, Native Discovery Garden, Perennial Border, Rhododendron Glen, Rock Garden and Iris Rain Garden, Tateuchi Loop Trail, The Ravine Experience, The Urban Meadow, Waterwise Garden, Yao Garden, and Dahlia Display are some of the gardens to see. There is a little gift shop and coffee bar so visitors can relax and enjoy the whole garden experience. Although admission is free, this garden ranks as one of the top botanical gardens I have toured.

Seasonal Gardening Tips

Spring Summer

• Consider taking soil samples to determine fertilizer needs.

• Plant seeds of cool-season vegetables as soon as garden soil is workable.

• Add organic matter to the garden.

• Consider backyard composting.

• Plant bare-root trees and shrubs. Keep the exposed roots moist until planted.

• Fertilize spring-flowering bulbs.

• Plant cold-hardy pansies and primrose.

• Apply horticulture oils at bud break (delayed dormant) in fruit trees to control overwintering insect pests.

• Protect fruit blossoms and tender garden plants from late critical freezing temperatures.

• Wait to prune roses until buds begin to swell to avoid late-frost damage to new growth.

• Plant warm-season vegetables and annual flowers once the threat of the last frost has passed.

• Plant summer-blooming bulbs including gladiola, begonia, dahlia, and canna.

• Consider drip irrigation in the garden to conserve water.

• Consider planting sweet corn in the garden every other week (until early July) to extend the harvest.

• Prune spring flowering shrubs (those that bloom before June) after they have bloomed to encourage new flower buds for next season.

• Deadhead (cut off) spent blossoms of perennial and annual flowers.

• Thin the fruit of apples, peaches, and apricots to approximately one fruit every 5-6 inches.

• Start enjoying the tomato harvest.

• Harvest summer squash and zucchini when they are still small and tender.

• Deep water established trees and shrubs about once per month during the heat of summer.

• .Consider planting cover crops to provide "green manure" to the garden.

• Collect and store seeds from your garden.

https://extension.usu.edu/yardandgarden/monthly

Fall Winter

• Deadhead (cut off) spent blossoms of perennial and annual flowers.

• Deep water established trees and shrubs about once per month during the heat of summer.

• Plant garlic cloves from mid-October through early November.

• Remove vegetable plants from the garden once harvest is complete to reduce overwintering sites for insect pests.

• Protect tomatoes from early frost by covering the plants.

• Plant spring blooming bulbs through early November.

• Plant trees and shrubs in the fall to enhance root establishment.

• Mow grass to a height of 1-to-1½ inches at the end of the season to minimize disease problems.

• Cut back ornamental grasses in snow prone areas.

• Blow out irrigation systems.

• If natural precipitation is sparse and ground is not frozen, water evergreen trees and shrubs to ensure they are well hydrated heading into winter.

• Try your hand at forcing amaryllis to bloom indoors for the holidays.

• Peruse garden/seed catalogs for new vegetable varieties to try in the garden.

• Plan and design the vegetable garden. Rotate vegetable families to reduce disease buildup.

• Consider growing herbs and/or microgreens indoors to add fresh greens to your diet.

• If storing bulbs, check their condition to ensure they are firm.

• Perform routine maintenance on small engine garden equipment.

• Try starting vegetables indoors from seed.

• Prune grapes and fruit trees in late February to early March.

• Fertilize fruit trees trees at least 6 weeks before they bloom.