Maps: Their Untold Stories

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P R E FAC E

MAPS

out of the archives

Our aim in writing this book was to share more widely some of the remarkable maps here at The National Archives, and also to relate some of the fascinating t ales that lie behind them. We have selected 10 0 maps from among the many possibilities, with a broad range of dates, places and contexts. These maps are not a represent ative sample but chosen to convey something of the diversit y of maps in the archives. We have arranged them into eight themed chapters, although many of our choices could have f it ted more than one theme and there are many overlaps in subject mat ter bet ween maps in dif ferent chapters.

We have then placed the maps in their historical and document ar y context , as par t of the of f icial government archives of the United Kingdom. However, this is to some extent our personal view of them, and we hope that you will perceive some of them dif ferently from us. Above all, we hope that you will enjoy looking at and reading about our maps as much as we have enjoyed writing about them.

Rose Mitchell and Andrew Janes Map archivists Kew, London, April 2014 For fur ther information about maps in The National Archives, please visit w w w.nationalarchives.gov.uk /maps

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Contents

E

E ARLY MAP S

16

› View from a medieval monastery: Cher tsey Abbey, Surrey c.1430

20

› Bells, bridges and bog plants: Inclesmoor, Yorkshire,

MAPPING THE ME TROPOLI S

46

› The Knights of St John: Valletta, Malta, c.1635–1643

50

› Old Father Thames: London, 1662

52

› Out of propor tion: Willemstad, Curaçao, c.mid to late

15th century

22

17th century

54

› A deser ted hamlet: near Tunbridge Wells, Kent, c.1519

24

› At home on the Main: Frankfur t am Main, Germany 1682

56

› A ring of bright water: Mantua, Italy, early 18th century

58

› I saw three ships: New York City, 1765

60

› Town and country: London, 1803

62

› Fine wine: Cape Town, Cape Colony (South Africa), 1833

64

› A city fit for a queen: Adelaide, South Australia, 1837

66

› Eastern capital: Edo (Tokyo), c.1853

68

› The tur tle and the missionaries: Chengdu, China, 1906

70

› Castles and commons in a Welsh valley: St Bride’s Major, Glamorgan, before 1540

26

› A border line case: the Debateable Land between England and Scotland, 1552

28

› In the shadow of a long-lost palace: Cheam, Malden, Morden and Nonsuch, Surrey, 1553

30

› Beast on the battlements: Knaresborough Castle, Yorkshire, 1561

32

› Separate and unequal: Nairobi, East Africa Protectorate

› Sea monsters, galleons and misty mountains: Ireland in the 16th century

34

› Sea change: a receding coastline: Rye, Sussex, 1572

36

› Summer on the lake: Sturmer Mere, Essex, 1571

38

› Rabbits galore! Methwold Warren, Norfolk, 1580

40

(Kenya), c.1914

72

› Bombed out: London, 1940

74

› The theatre of sky and ear th: celestial and terrestrial map, 1602

42

› Around France: Nior t and western France, 1636

44

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76

THE ATRES OF WAR : MILITARY MAP S

10 4

› ‘All such necessarie things’: Aldbourne Chase, Wiltshire, 1608

80

› Saints and sinners: Saint-Denis, France, 1567

108

› The dangers of decoration: The Fens, East Anglia, 1658

82

› A siege and a spy: Neuhäusel (Nové Zámky), Kingdom

T

THE COU NTRYS IDE: L ANDSC APES IN TIME

of Hungary, 1663

› Across four centuries; triumphs and disasters: Audley End, near Saffron Walden, Essex, 1666

84

› George Washington – surveyor: Eastern Ohio Country, 1753–1754

› A confiscated Jacobite estate: Woodhall,

110

112

Nor thumberland, 1736

86

› The greatest for tification in Europe: St Philip’s Castle,

› Going Dutch: Plegt Ankker, Berbice, Guiana, 1768

88

Minorca, 1754

114

› A swamp in time: South Altamaha River, Georgia, 1771

90

› ‘The best for t in America’: Niagara, 1759

116

› Towards a national survey: Sussex, 1778

92

› Balloon debate: Brest, France, c.1800

118

› ‘Low Land’: Basse-Terre, Guadeloupe, 1793

94

› ‘Forward, the Light Brigade!’: Balaklava, Russian Empire, 1854

120

› Escape plan: Dar tmoor, Devon, 1812

96

› Ambush at the ford: Mangapiko Stream, Waikato, New Zealand, 1864

› The obelisk, the pheasantry and the blacksmith: Boconnoc, Cornwall, 1838

98

› A-hunting we will go: Campo de Gibraltar, Spain, 1873

100

› Seats with a view: British Isles, 1899

102

122

› Trench warfare: Environs of Beaumont-Hamel and Serre, France, 1916

124

› Contours of conflict: Environs of Bulaybil, Transjordan, 1918

126

› The escapee’s most impor tant accessory’: Germany

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and neighbours, c.1940–1942

128

› Neptune comes ashore: English Channel, 1944

130

› A new type of weapon: Nagasaki, Japan, 1945

132

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C

CHARTING THE S E A S

134

› A medieval mariner’s compass: Eastern Mediterranean

N E W WORLDS: E XPLOR ATION AND THE COLONIES 16 4 › Land of great red grapes: the lost colony of Roanoke, c.1585

168

and Black Sea, 14th century

138

› Elephant and castle: West Africa, c.1680

170

› Confined to cabin: Cadiz, Spain, 1587

140

› ‘Journey to the five Indian Nations’: Iroquois Country, 1700

172

› The dowry of a queen: Tangier, 1675

142

› ‘An Indian a Hunting’: Carolina, c.1721

174

› Seas of the midnight sun: Arctic Ocean, c.1675

144

› A slave for t: James Island, River Gambia, 1755

176

› Rescued by Indians: Georgia and Alabama, 1757

178

› Wildlife on the border: Lake Champlain, 1767

180

› Kidnap, kauri trees and the underworld: New Zealand, 1793

182

› ‘Where ye Fire & Smoake cometh out’: Vesuvius, Bay of Naples, Italy, 1678

146

› A shocking shipwreck: Isles of Scilly, 1707

148

› Coffee with sugar: a captured French captain’s map: Mar tinique, 1757

150

› Sailing Wolfe to Quebec: St Lawrence River, New France, 1759

152

› Discoveries of the Resolution: Southern hemisphere, 1772–1775

154

› After the Mutiny: Bligh’s Islands (Fiji), c.1790

156

› Kangaroo and campfire: King George Sound, Western Australia, 1833

184

› ‘No white man had ever traversed the country before’: River Shire and Lake Nyasa, East Africa, 1859

186

› Journeys to the centre of the ear th: highways of empire, 1926

188

› East of Aden: Indian subcontinent, 1948

190

› Battles of the Nile: Aboukir and Alexandria, Egypt, c.1800, 1840

158

› White on white: Parry Channel, the Nor th-West Passage, 1819–1820

160

› Gates to St Petersburg: Kronstadt, Russia, 1851

162

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192

WORLDS OF IMAGINATION

220

› A murder mystery: Kirk O’Field, Edinburgh, 1567

196

› Brave New World: The Americas, c.1700

224

› Lost beneath the waves: Por t Royal, Jamaica, 1692–1870

198

› A royal scandal: ‘Green Bag Land’, 1820

226

› Realm of the Romanovs: Russia in Europe, 1763–1836

200

› Geography at your finger tips: Great Britain and Ireland, 1839

228

› An emperor in exile: St Helena, 1815

202

› Perfect for a park: Alber t Park, East London, 1845

230

› In the palm of your hand: London, 1851

232

› The measure of Melbourne: Australia and New Zealand, 1875

234

› An imaginary continent: Africa, 1886

236

› Cool as a cucumber: Central London Railway, 1911

238

› Race across the Atlantic: Nor th Atlantic Ocean, 1912

240

› Make do and mend? Europe, c.1939

242

› Welcome to Smoky Cove: Reykjavík, Iceland, 1940

244

› ‘X’ marks the spot: Treasure Island, 1946

247

List of maps

248

M

MAP S THAT WITN ES S ED HI STORY

› Steaming ahead: The Stockton & Darlington Railway, County Durham, 1822

204

› At a curious angle: Lake of the Woods, United States of America and Canada, 1872–1876

206

› New territories: Hong Kong, 1898

208

› An evil empire? The British Empire, 1915

210

› The land of the dead: The Valley of the Kings, Egypt, 1926

212

› ‘Peace for our time’: Czechoslovakia, 1938

214

› ‘Gas chambers in a wood’: Oświęcim (Auschwitz), Poland, c.1942

216

› The last place on Ear th: Antarctica, 1953–1957

218

Index 252

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I

I NTRODUC TION

MAPS

for everyone There is an old saying that ever y pic ture tells a

or the air are proper ly called char ts . Whatever we

s tor y. We believe that this is even tr uer of maps

choose to call them, maps are in essence a means of

than of ordinar y pic tures . Maps capture and convey

under s tanding places and mak ing sense of the wor ld.

k nowledge and ideas about places succinc tly. It is

Old maps are a for m of his tor ical evidence that

of ten easier and more intuitive to make sense of

of fer a dis tinc tive per spec tive on the pas t . They

spatial relationships visually from a map than from

reveal much about the relationships bet ween

a descr iption in words alone. Maps also incor por ate

places and people and they ref lec t the values ,

dif ferent layer s of meaning. As well as geogr aphical

preoccupations and wor ld views of their creator s

infor mation such as the layout of a cit y or a piece of

and the contex t from which they or iginally emer ged.

land, they of ten communicate in more subtle ways ,

Some maps show how people have lef t their mar k

such as through their decor ation.

on the environment , by developing land for houses ,

Although mos t people can recognise a map when

far ming or mining, or simply by tr avelling from place

they see one, scholar s of car togr aphy disagree

to place. They may record disputes over land –

about exac tly what the def ining char ac ter is tics of

whether bet ween the inhabitants of neighbour ing

maps are. It is gener ally accepted, however, that

cot tages or the gover nments of neighbour ing

maps are not completely realis tic in the way that

countr ies – and how they were resolved. O ther

photogr aphs are. Ins tead they represent places

maps ref lec t the his tor y of how people have

selec tively and symbolically. They are not always

explored the wor ld and the discover ies that they

dr awn accur ately to scale, nor do they invar iably

have made. They por tr ay how places and landscapes

por tr ay real places . Not ever y thing that is map -

have been owned, set tled, exploited, at tacked

like is necessar ily called a map. Maps of smaller

and defended, and how empires rose and fell. We

areas are of ten called plans , and maps of the sea

can also enjoy and appreciate maps for their own

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1

1 N UC LE AR N ATION : This 1950s poster

expressing pride in British scientific achievement includes a map as part of its overall design.

2

2 W H IC H WAY I S U P? Compass indicators

3

like this one are decorative features with a practical purpose.

3 M A PPI NG TH E BO U N DAR I E S: Simple

lines on a map can matter a great deal to the people affected by their equivalent on the ground. This example shows the new boundaries of Turkey, agreed under the Treaty of Lausanne in 1923.

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sake, because they are intr insically interes ting in

gover nment has needed maps mos t commonly

themselves .

in relation to war fare and defence, inter national

Our map collec tion at The National Archives is

relations , diplomacy, and the impac t of the s tate

one of the f ines t and mos t remar k able in the wor ld.

on the physical environment , but it has used maps

It is also one of the lar ges t , containing more than six

for many other pur poses too. From the asser tion of

million maps and similar items , such as topogr aphical

land owner ship to the deter mination of boundar ies ,

views and architec tur al dr awings . To descr ibe it as

and from ta x assessment to the adminis tr ation

a ‘collec tion’ is ac tually something of a misnomer,

of jus tice, maps have made his tor y by inf luencing

because our maps are treated not as a separ ate

gover nment decisions , both great and small.

entit y but as an integr al par t of the archives .

Our maps show ever y cor ner of the B r itish Isles

They of ten accompany and illus tr ate documents

and places all around the globe. Their geogr aphical

such as let ter s or repor ts , to which they may be

spread ref lec ts the B r itish gover nment’s s tr ategic,

intellec tually and sometimes physically at tached.

political and adminis tr ative interes ts and pr ior ities .

Infor mation from these related records helps us to

For ins tance, we have many more maps of Guyana ,

inter pret the maps and to under s tand the s tor ies

which was for mer ly a B r itish colony, than we do of

that lie behind them.

Par aguay, which has few his tor ical ties to B r itain.

Jus t like the other his tor ical records in the

Even within the United K ingdom, cer tain places

archives , the maps now in our care were created

– such as Crown Es tate land and impor tant naval

or used by the gover nment of the United K ingdom.

bases – are represented more frequently than

They illus tr ate the great themes of his tor y

other s . Cover age is equally uneven in ter ms of date.

from the B r itish per spec tive, as well as day-to-

Although the oldes t of our maps were dr awn dur ing

day adminis tr ation at home and over seas . The

the 14th centur y, the vas t major it y date from the

12 MAPS FOR EVERYONE

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4

4 PIC TU R E TH I S: Some maps are very

abstract and others more pictorial. This view of Walland Marsh in Sussex, probably drawn in 1536, has as much in common with a painting as it does with a modern map.

5 PA PE R L AN DSC A PE : Fort Albert and its

surroundings on the tiny Channel Island of Alderney come vividly to life in this handdrawn map dating from 1869.

5

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18th, 19 th and 20 th centur ies . Many areas of

items annotated by hand. Manuscr ipt and pr inted

the wor ld – including some par ts of England –

maps co- exis t among our records from the 16th

were not mapped accur ately in detail until

centur y onwards . Even in the 20 th centur y, maps

the 19 th centur y, or in some ins tances even

were s till sometimes entirely hand- dr awn where

more recently.

few or no additional copies would be required.

The mapmaker s whose wor k is found in the

It became increasingly common, however, for the

archives were exceptionally diver se. Many were

gover nment to amend or cus tomise an exis ting

professional sur veyor s , car togr apher s or pr inter s ,

published map – of ten one produced by its own

some employed by the gover nment itself (either

Ordnance Sur vey or ar med forces – in preference

as civilians or in the ar med ser vices) and other s

to creating an entirely new one.

wor k ing for commercial enter pr ises . Maps were

Although the archives were accumulated by the

also dr awn by amateur s , such as B r itish of f icials

gover nment of the United K ingdom, they include

or tr aveller s over seas . Some of the maps included

far more than jus t the s tor ies of the power ful and

were created by people from other countr ies who

the gover ning elite. Our records encompass a broad

came into contac t with B r itish colonis ts , diplomats

var iet y of human exper ience, from great events

or explorer s .

to the challenges and achievements of ever yday

The maps themselves are no less var ied than their

life. They also contain the his tor ies of longer -ter m

maker s and the places that they por tr ay. Some are

forces , such as social and political change and the

colour ful and imaginative, other s quite plain. Ver y

evolution of the landscape. These are the s tor ies of

many are unique, either because they are or iginal

people and places throughout B r itain and the wor ld,

manuscr ipt creations or because they are pr inted

and they are also the s tor ies of our maps .

14 MAPS FOR EVERYONE

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6

7

6 U N I Q U E A DDITION S: This Ordnance

7 DECOR ATIV E TO UC H : Fish and

Survey map was annotated as part of the

seashells adorn this cartouche from an

Valuation Office survey, carried out in

18th century estate map. Many landowners

England and Wales shortly before the First

valued maps as much for their beauty and

World War. These records are particularly

prestige as for their utility.

popular with genealogists and local history researchers.

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C

CHAPTER ONE

E A R LY

maps

Maps from ear lier times are dif ferent from the k ind

chapter, showing medieval landscapes in Sur rey and

of maps we are familiar with today. In this chapter

Yor k shire. The number of maps produced increases

we explore a selec tion that illus tr ates the diver sit y

to about 75 for 150 0 –1550, doubled for 1550 –1580,

of maps from the 15th centur y to the 17th centur y,

and with per haps 20 0 fur ther maps for 1580 –160 0

and some of the reasons why they were made. Mos t

when mapmak ing became more widespread.

of these maps were manuscr ipt , dr awn before more

Why did people s tar t mak ing and using maps?

s tandardised pr inted maps became common. They

From the ear ly 16th centur y maps began to be

are of ten colour ful and provide highly individual

increasingly appreciated and used for diplomacy,

views of places , buildings , plant life and coas tlines ,

defence and gover nment adminis tr ation. Map use in

before the genre of B r itish landscape painting

law cour ts was encour aged af ter a map af fec ted the

had begun. Sometimes mapmaker s tr ied to show

verdic t in a case in 1515. Inf luential individuals such

hypothetical places such as a posited souther n

as the s tatesman Lord Bur ghley saw the impor tance

continent of the same size as the Arc tic, and the

of maps and helped to make them common cur rency

map on page 43 even shows the outer edges of

at the cour t of Elizabeth I . The visual nature of

the heavens .

maps was especially helpful in conveying infor mation

Maps gr adually became accepted as a useful and

about far -of f places , when planning militar y

at tr ac tive way to present viewpoints , k nowledge

campaigns abroad, colonising, and for an over view

and infor mation. The oldes t maps in the archives

of foreign s tates , especially those which were likely

date from the 14th centur y, but maps were

to be a threat to England. See, for ins tance, the

relatively r are until the 16th centur y. The archives

French adminis tr ative map on page 45, used for

holds seven maps and one char t dated before

militar y intelligence.

150 0. Two of these maps are included in this

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Ear ly maps were usually made for a specif ic

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1

1 WO LV E S , R A B B IT S AN D W I LD M E N :

2

A scene in the hills above Portrush peninsula, County Antrim, Ireland in 1580.

2 C A S TLE I N TH E SAN D: Camber Castle

near Rye, Sussex (see page 39).

3 L A K E L AN D F E LL S: Dynamic depiction of

hills surrounding the river valley and hamlet of Sadgill, Westmorland, drawn for a court case in 1578.

3

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pur pose, by hand, when needed. They dealt with

not be dr awn to scale, and the mapmaker might

a par ticular issue where multiple copies were not

even emphasise impor tant features by por tr aying

required, or with secret mat ter s such as defence

them dispropor tionately lar ger than their tr ue size.

where they were for the eyes of the r uling elite

Some maps are rough sketches , other s in pic tor ial

alone. What is shown is selec tive, chosen to ref lec t

s t yle. They might be dr awn to make bes t use of

a map’s pur pose. The K naresborough Cas tle plan

the piece of parchment or paper and so nor th may

(page 33), dr awn to show its defensive s tate, reveals

not be at the top. We may need to look at related

lit tle of its sur roundings , while we might wish that

documents to inter pret a map, to tell us who

the map of Cheam’s common f ields (page 31) could

made it , when, why, and what happened to it nex t ,

show more of the near by palace. Maps dr awn for

ques tions which ear ly maps of ten do not answer

opposing par ties in a legal case may show ver y

in themselves .

dif ferent views of the same land. This limited focus

If reading ear ly maps requires sk ill and a fresh

on the mat ter in hand resulted in maps of small

mind, it also of fer s us a window on the wor ld of

places such as remote moor lands but fewer of

centur ies pas t . It can be fascinating to glimpse los t

towns , regions or the whole countr y.

palaces and cas tles , long-fallen ancient crosses

The success of ear ly maps was measured by the

and deser ted villages , in a landscape of ten vas tly

ex tent to which they achieved their pur pose, r ather

changed from the one we see now. Until the las t

than their accur acy in the moder n sense. They may

quar ter of the 16th centur y mapmak ing was an

18 E A R LY M A P S

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4 A TRU E AN D PE R F EC TE PL AT TE :

5 GA LLEON S I N AC TION : These ships in

Manuscript maps were usually called plattes

full sail with cannons ablaze are drawn in the

during the 16th century.

sea on a map of Ireland (see page 35).

4

5

ac tivit y to which any educated man might tur n his hand, with no par ticular tr aining in car togr aphy but a k nowledge of the place that he drew. Mapmaker s used their creativit y to express the point of the map, and added embellishments in the for m of animals , mons ter s and ships . Their maps were made in a profusion of s t yles , shapes and colour s .

The r ise of a class of professional sur veyor s using new techniques and sur vey ins tr uments brought a new er a of mathematically cons tr uc ted wor k . These men were wor k ing to commission and needed to please their employer s and adver tise their sk ills . They included scale bar s and compass indicator s , and titled their creations to explain what they showed and why they were made. Although these new car togr aphic sk ills were not employed consis tently, this per iod tr ansfor med the ar t of mak ing maps towards the k ind we k now today.

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View from a medieval monastery

W

C H E RT S E Y A B B E Y, S U R R E Y c .143 0

Why make a map? In the Middle Ages, reading and writing were

features of the map are in their appropriate position in relation to

rare skills and largely the preserve of monks, who carefully kept

each other, although not to a consistent scale.

copies of important documents such as charters and deeds about

The map has some of the quality of a picture, especially in the

their monastery’s estate bound together in a volume called a

way it shows buildings: houses in the village of Laleham across the

cartulary. Maps such as this one began to be made, as a different

river, the large barn above the church in which grain from the fields

and effective way of showing ownership and rights over land.

would have been stored, and two mills to its right, either side of

After the Benedictine abbey at Chertsey was involved in a

the river, in which grain was ground. The far mill’s wheel is drawn

property dispute in the 1420s, the monks left an account for future

facing the viewer, while just the top of the wheel of the near mill

custodians of the Abbey about its claims and where the lands in

is visible. The Abbey’s cluster of buildings is shown by a detailed

question lay. This map was drawn in the cartulary to illustrate

elevation of its church, with lit interior and open door, and drawn

points made in their text, and readily conveys important features

disproportionately large, as if to emphasise the map’s provenance;

in the case. The wisdom of the monks in creating this record

as the church itself must have towered over the flat landscape.

against future need was borne out when the cartulary was called

The colours on this map have kept their brightness across more

as evidence in later times; a note on the flyleaf states that it was

than half a millennium, through being kept in the dark, enclosed in

deposited in the Exchequer Court in 1637.

the cartulary. The red tile roofs sing out against the grey lead of the

The dispute was about grazing rights on the Abbey’s pastures

church roof, the blue waterways, green vegetation, and the wood

and meadows at certain times of the year, claimed by some of the

of Chertsey Bridge at right. It must have seemed to the monastic

tenants for longer than the Abbey allowed. The map notes the size

mapmaker that the landscape he drew, dominated by the church

and names of these low-lying fields, prone to flooding, and forming

materially and socially, was set to last forever. Yet the church he

an island enclosed by the River Thames. A smaller waterway cut

knew would be swept away in the next century by Henry VIII’s

across the land, dug by the monks to drive the Abbey’s water mills.

Dissolution of the Monasteries, leaving this map, as with so many

The fields are drawn fairly conventionally in plan, and the other

others in the archives, as a record of landscapes and times past.

S E A L O F C H E RT S E Y A B B E Y: This

11th century depiction of the Abbey church on its seal shows a building which differs in detail and angle from that on the map.

DO M E S DAY R ECOR D: The entry for Chertsey Abbey in the Domesday

20 EARLY MAPS

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Book of 1086 shows that it had extensive estates.

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Drawing on 700 years' worth of maps from the National Archives, this stunning and fascinating collection is not just about the history of the maps, but is also an insight into the places—whether cities, countries or the whole world—and the social history of the time that the mapmakers captured.

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Published 2014 by Bloomsbury Publishing Plc, 50 Bedford Square, London WC1B 3DP www.bloomsbury.com Bloomsbury is a trademark of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc The National Archives logo © Crown Copyright 2014 The National Archives logo device is a trade mark of The National Archives and is used under licence.

Text and maps © Crown Copyright 2014 The right of Rose Mitchell and Andrew Janes to be identified as the authors of this work has been asserted by them in accordance with the Copyright , Designs and Patents Act 1988.

ISBN 978 -1408 -1- 8967-2 A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means – photographic, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping or information storage or retrieval systems – without permission of the publishers.

This book is produced using paper that is made from wood grown in managed sustainable forests. It is natural, renewable and recyclable. The logging and manufacturing processes conform to the environmental regulations of the country of origin.

Design: Nicola Liddiard, Nimbus Design Printed in Singapore by Tien Wah Press.

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