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P R E FAC E
MAPS
out of the archives
Our aim in writing this book was to share more widely some of the remarkable maps here at The National Archives, and also to relate some of the fascinating t ales that lie behind them. We have selected 10 0 maps from among the many possibilities, with a broad range of dates, places and contexts. These maps are not a represent ative sample but chosen to convey something of the diversit y of maps in the archives. We have arranged them into eight themed chapters, although many of our choices could have f it ted more than one theme and there are many overlaps in subject mat ter bet ween maps in dif ferent chapters. We have then placed the maps in their historical and document ar y context , as par t of the of f icial government archives of the United Kingdom. However, this is to some extent our personal view of them, and we hope that you will perceive some of them dif ferently from us. Above all, we hope that you will enjoy looking at and reading about our maps as much as we have enjoyed writing about them. Rose Mitchell and Andrew Janes Map archivists Kew, London, April 2014 For fur ther information about maps in The National Archives, please visit w w w.nationalarchives.gov.uk /maps
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Contents
E
E ARLY MAP S
16
› View from a medieval monastery: Cher tsey Abbey, Surrey c.1430
20
› Bells, bridges and bog plants: Inclesmoor, Yorkshire,
MAPPING THE ME TROPOLI S
46
› The Knights of St John: Valletta, Malta, c.1635–1643
50
› Old Father Thames: London, 1662
52
› Out of propor tion: Willemstad, Curaçao, c.mid to late
15th century
22
17th century
54
› A deser ted hamlet: near Tunbridge Wells, Kent, c.1519
24
› At home on the Main: Frankfur t am Main, Germany 1682
56
› A ring of bright water: Mantua, Italy, early 18th century
58
› I saw three ships: New York City, 1765
60
› Town and country: London, 1803
62
› Fine wine: Cape Town, Cape Colony (South Africa), 1833
64
› A city fit for a queen: Adelaide, South Australia, 1837
66
› Eastern capital: Edo (Tokyo), c.1853
68
› The tur tle and the missionaries: Chengdu, China, 1906
70
› Castles and commons in a Welsh valley: St Bride’s Major, Glamorgan, before 1540
26
› A border line case: the Debateable Land between England and Scotland, 1552
28
› In the shadow of a long-lost palace: Cheam, Malden, Morden and Nonsuch, Surrey, 1553
30
› Beast on the battlements: Knaresborough Castle, Yorkshire, 1561
32
› Separate and unequal: Nairobi, East Africa Protectorate
› Sea monsters, galleons and misty mountains: Ireland in the 16th century
34
› Sea change: a receding coastline: Rye, Sussex, 1572
36
› Summer on the lake: Sturmer Mere, Essex, 1571
38
› Rabbits galore! Methwold Warren, Norfolk, 1580
40
(Kenya), c.1914
72
› Bombed out: London, 1940
74
› The theatre of sky and ear th: celestial and terrestrial map, 1602
42
› Around France: Nior t and western France, 1636
44
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76
THE ATRES OF WAR : MILITARY MAP S
10 4
› ‘All such necessarie things’: Aldbourne Chase, Wiltshire, 1608
80
› Saints and sinners: Saint-Denis, France, 1567
108
› The dangers of decoration: The Fens, East Anglia, 1658
82
› A siege and a spy: Neuhäusel (Nové Zámky), Kingdom
T
THE COU NTRYS IDE: L ANDSC APES IN TIME
of Hungary, 1663
› Across four centuries; triumphs and disasters: Audley End, near Saffron Walden, Essex, 1666
84
› George Washington – surveyor: Eastern Ohio Country, 1753–1754
› A confiscated Jacobite estate: Woodhall,
110
112
Nor thumberland, 1736
86
› The greatest for tification in Europe: St Philip’s Castle,
› Going Dutch: Plegt Ankker, Berbice, Guiana, 1768
88
Minorca, 1754
114
› A swamp in time: South Altamaha River, Georgia, 1771
90
› ‘The best for t in America’: Niagara, 1759
116
› Towards a national survey: Sussex, 1778
92
› Balloon debate: Brest, France, c.1800
118
› ‘Low Land’: Basse-Terre, Guadeloupe, 1793
94
› ‘Forward, the Light Brigade!’: Balaklava, Russian Empire, 1854
120
› Escape plan: Dar tmoor, Devon, 1812
96
› Ambush at the ford: Mangapiko Stream, Waikato, New Zealand, 1864
› The obelisk, the pheasantry and the blacksmith: Boconnoc, Cornwall, 1838
98
› A-hunting we will go: Campo de Gibraltar, Spain, 1873
100
› Seats with a view: British Isles, 1899
102
122
› Trench warfare: Environs of Beaumont-Hamel and Serre, France, 1916
124
› Contours of conflict: Environs of Bulaybil, Transjordan, 1918
126
› The escapee’s most impor tant accessory’: Germany
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and neighbours, c.1940–1942
128
› Neptune comes ashore: English Channel, 1944
130
› A new type of weapon: Nagasaki, Japan, 1945
132
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C
CHARTING THE S E A S
134
› A medieval mariner’s compass: Eastern Mediterranean
N E W WORLDS: E XPLOR ATION AND THE COLONIES 16 4 › Land of great red grapes: the lost colony of Roanoke, c.1585
168
and Black Sea, 14th century
138
› Elephant and castle: West Africa, c.1680
170
› Confined to cabin: Cadiz, Spain, 1587
140
› ‘Journey to the five Indian Nations’: Iroquois Country, 1700
172
› The dowry of a queen: Tangier, 1675
142
› ‘An Indian a Hunting’: Carolina, c.1721
174
› Seas of the midnight sun: Arctic Ocean, c.1675
144
› A slave for t: James Island, River Gambia, 1755
176
› Rescued by Indians: Georgia and Alabama, 1757
178
› Wildlife on the border: Lake Champlain, 1767
180
› Kidnap, kauri trees and the underworld: New Zealand, 1793
182
› ‘Where ye Fire & Smoake cometh out’: Vesuvius, Bay of Naples, Italy, 1678
146
› A shocking shipwreck: Isles of Scilly, 1707
148
› Coffee with sugar: a captured French captain’s map: Mar tinique, 1757
150
› Sailing Wolfe to Quebec: St Lawrence River, New France, 1759
152
› Discoveries of the Resolution: Southern hemisphere, 1772–1775
154
› After the Mutiny: Bligh’s Islands (Fiji), c.1790
156
› Kangaroo and campfire: King George Sound, Western Australia, 1833
184
› ‘No white man had ever traversed the country before’: River Shire and Lake Nyasa, East Africa, 1859
186
› Journeys to the centre of the ear th: highways of empire, 1926
188
› East of Aden: Indian subcontinent, 1948
190
› Battles of the Nile: Aboukir and Alexandria, Egypt, c.1800, 1840
158
› White on white: Parry Channel, the Nor th-West Passage, 1819–1820
160
› Gates to St Petersburg: Kronstadt, Russia, 1851
162
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192
WORLDS OF IMAGINATION
220
› A murder mystery: Kirk O’Field, Edinburgh, 1567
196
› Brave New World: The Americas, c.1700
224
› Lost beneath the waves: Por t Royal, Jamaica, 1692–1870
198
› A royal scandal: ‘Green Bag Land’, 1820
226
› Realm of the Romanovs: Russia in Europe, 1763–1836
200
› Geography at your finger tips: Great Britain and Ireland, 1839
228
› An emperor in exile: St Helena, 1815
202
› Perfect for a park: Alber t Park, East London, 1845
230
› In the palm of your hand: London, 1851
232
› The measure of Melbourne: Australia and New Zealand, 1875
234
› An imaginary continent: Africa, 1886
236
› Cool as a cucumber: Central London Railway, 1911
238
› Race across the Atlantic: Nor th Atlantic Ocean, 1912
240
› Make do and mend? Europe, c.1939
242
› Welcome to Smoky Cove: Reykjavík, Iceland, 1940
244
› ‘X’ marks the spot: Treasure Island, 1946
247
List of maps
248
M
MAP S THAT WITN ES S ED HI STORY
› Steaming ahead: The Stockton & Darlington Railway, County Durham, 1822
204
› At a curious angle: Lake of the Woods, United States of America and Canada, 1872–1876
206
› New territories: Hong Kong, 1898
208
› An evil empire? The British Empire, 1915
210
› The land of the dead: The Valley of the Kings, Egypt, 1926
212
› ‘Peace for our time’: Czechoslovakia, 1938
214
› ‘Gas chambers in a wood’: Oświęcim (Auschwitz), Poland, c.1942
216
› The last place on Ear th: Antarctica, 1953–1957
218
Index 252
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I
I NTRODUC TION
MAPS
for everyone There is an old saying that ever y pic ture tells a
or the air are proper ly called char ts . Whatever we
s tor y. We believe that this is even tr uer of maps
choose to call them, maps are in essence a means of
than of ordinar y pic tures . Maps capture and convey
under s tanding places and mak ing sense of the wor ld.
k nowledge and ideas about places succinc tly. It is
Old maps are a for m of his tor ical evidence that
of ten easier and more intuitive to make sense of
of fer a dis tinc tive per spec tive on the pas t . They
spatial relationships visually from a map than from
reveal much about the relationships bet ween
a descr iption in words alone. Maps also incor por ate
places and people and they ref lec t the values ,
dif ferent layer s of meaning. As well as geogr aphical
preoccupations and wor ld views of their creator s
infor mation such as the layout of a cit y or a piece of
and the contex t from which they or iginally emer ged.
land, they of ten communicate in more subtle ways ,
Some maps show how people have lef t their mar k
such as through their decor ation.
on the environment , by developing land for houses ,
Although mos t people can recognise a map when
far ming or mining, or simply by tr avelling from place
they see one, scholar s of car togr aphy disagree
to place. They may record disputes over land –
about exac tly what the def ining char ac ter is tics of
whether bet ween the inhabitants of neighbour ing
maps are. It is gener ally accepted, however, that
cot tages or the gover nments of neighbour ing
maps are not completely realis tic in the way that
countr ies – and how they were resolved. O ther
photogr aphs are. Ins tead they represent places
maps ref lec t the his tor y of how people have
selec tively and symbolically. They are not always
explored the wor ld and the discover ies that they
dr awn accur ately to scale, nor do they invar iably
have made. They por tr ay how places and landscapes
por tr ay real places . Not ever y thing that is map -
have been owned, set tled, exploited, at tacked
like is necessar ily called a map. Maps of smaller
and defended, and how empires rose and fell. We
areas are of ten called plans , and maps of the sea
can also enjoy and appreciate maps for their own
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1
1 N UC LE AR N ATION : This 1950s poster
expressing pride in British scientific achievement includes a map as part of its overall design.
2
2 W H IC H WAY I S U P? Compass indicators
3
like this one are decorative features with a practical purpose.
3 M A PPI NG TH E BO U N DAR I E S: Simple
lines on a map can matter a great deal to the people affected by their equivalent on the ground. This example shows the new boundaries of Turkey, agreed under the Treaty of Lausanne in 1923.
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sake, because they are intr insically interes ting in
gover nment has needed maps mos t commonly
themselves .
in relation to war fare and defence, inter national
Our map collec tion at The National Archives is
relations , diplomacy, and the impac t of the s tate
one of the f ines t and mos t remar k able in the wor ld.
on the physical environment , but it has used maps
It is also one of the lar ges t , containing more than six
for many other pur poses too. From the asser tion of
million maps and similar items , such as topogr aphical
land owner ship to the deter mination of boundar ies ,
views and architec tur al dr awings . To descr ibe it as
and from ta x assessment to the adminis tr ation
a ‘collec tion’ is ac tually something of a misnomer,
of jus tice, maps have made his tor y by inf luencing
because our maps are treated not as a separ ate
gover nment decisions , both great and small.
entit y but as an integr al par t of the archives .
Our maps show ever y cor ner of the B r itish Isles
They of ten accompany and illus tr ate documents
and places all around the globe. Their geogr aphical
such as let ter s or repor ts , to which they may be
spread ref lec ts the B r itish gover nment’s s tr ategic,
intellec tually and sometimes physically at tached.
political and adminis tr ative interes ts and pr ior ities .
Infor mation from these related records helps us to
For ins tance, we have many more maps of Guyana ,
inter pret the maps and to under s tand the s tor ies
which was for mer ly a B r itish colony, than we do of
that lie behind them.
Par aguay, which has few his tor ical ties to B r itain.
Jus t like the other his tor ical records in the
Even within the United K ingdom, cer tain places
archives , the maps now in our care were created
– such as Crown Es tate land and impor tant naval
or used by the gover nment of the United K ingdom.
bases – are represented more frequently than
They illus tr ate the great themes of his tor y
other s . Cover age is equally uneven in ter ms of date.
from the B r itish per spec tive, as well as day-to-
Although the oldes t of our maps were dr awn dur ing
day adminis tr ation at home and over seas . The
the 14th centur y, the vas t major it y date from the
12 MAPS FOR EVERYONE
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4
4 PIC TU R E TH I S: Some maps are very
abstract and others more pictorial. This view of Walland Marsh in Sussex, probably drawn in 1536, has as much in common with a painting as it does with a modern map.
5 PA PE R L AN DSC A PE : Fort Albert and its
surroundings on the tiny Channel Island of Alderney come vividly to life in this handdrawn map dating from 1869.
5
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18th, 19 th and 20 th centur ies . Many areas of
items annotated by hand. Manuscr ipt and pr inted
the wor ld – including some par ts of England –
maps co- exis t among our records from the 16th
were not mapped accur ately in detail until
centur y onwards . Even in the 20 th centur y, maps
the 19 th centur y, or in some ins tances even
were s till sometimes entirely hand- dr awn where
more recently.
few or no additional copies would be required.
The mapmaker s whose wor k is found in the
It became increasingly common, however, for the
archives were exceptionally diver se. Many were
gover nment to amend or cus tomise an exis ting
professional sur veyor s , car togr apher s or pr inter s ,
published map – of ten one produced by its own
some employed by the gover nment itself (either
Ordnance Sur vey or ar med forces – in preference
as civilians or in the ar med ser vices) and other s
to creating an entirely new one.
wor k ing for commercial enter pr ises . Maps were
Although the archives were accumulated by the
also dr awn by amateur s , such as B r itish of f icials
gover nment of the United K ingdom, they include
or tr aveller s over seas . Some of the maps included
far more than jus t the s tor ies of the power ful and
were created by people from other countr ies who
the gover ning elite. Our records encompass a broad
came into contac t with B r itish colonis ts , diplomats
var iet y of human exper ience, from great events
or explorer s .
to the challenges and achievements of ever yday
The maps themselves are no less var ied than their
life. They also contain the his tor ies of longer -ter m
maker s and the places that they por tr ay. Some are
forces , such as social and political change and the
colour ful and imaginative, other s quite plain. Ver y
evolution of the landscape. These are the s tor ies of
many are unique, either because they are or iginal
people and places throughout B r itain and the wor ld,
manuscr ipt creations or because they are pr inted
and they are also the s tor ies of our maps .
14 MAPS FOR EVERYONE
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6
7
6 U N I Q U E A DDITION S: This Ordnance
7 DECOR ATIV E TO UC H : Fish and
Survey map was annotated as part of the
seashells adorn this cartouche from an
Valuation Office survey, carried out in
18th century estate map. Many landowners
England and Wales shortly before the First
valued maps as much for their beauty and
World War. These records are particularly
prestige as for their utility.
popular with genealogists and local history researchers.
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C
CHAPTER ONE
E A R LY
maps
Maps from ear lier times are dif ferent from the k ind
chapter, showing medieval landscapes in Sur rey and
of maps we are familiar with today. In this chapter
Yor k shire. The number of maps produced increases
we explore a selec tion that illus tr ates the diver sit y
to about 75 for 150 0 –1550, doubled for 1550 –1580,
of maps from the 15th centur y to the 17th centur y,
and with per haps 20 0 fur ther maps for 1580 –160 0
and some of the reasons why they were made. Mos t
when mapmak ing became more widespread.
of these maps were manuscr ipt , dr awn before more
Why did people s tar t mak ing and using maps?
s tandardised pr inted maps became common. They
From the ear ly 16th centur y maps began to be
are of ten colour ful and provide highly individual
increasingly appreciated and used for diplomacy,
views of places , buildings , plant life and coas tlines ,
defence and gover nment adminis tr ation. Map use in
before the genre of B r itish landscape painting
law cour ts was encour aged af ter a map af fec ted the
had begun. Sometimes mapmaker s tr ied to show
verdic t in a case in 1515. Inf luential individuals such
hypothetical places such as a posited souther n
as the s tatesman Lord Bur ghley saw the impor tance
continent of the same size as the Arc tic, and the
of maps and helped to make them common cur rency
map on page 43 even shows the outer edges of
at the cour t of Elizabeth I . The visual nature of
the heavens .
maps was especially helpful in conveying infor mation
Maps gr adually became accepted as a useful and
about far -of f places , when planning militar y
at tr ac tive way to present viewpoints , k nowledge
campaigns abroad, colonising, and for an over view
and infor mation. The oldes t maps in the archives
of foreign s tates , especially those which were likely
date from the 14th centur y, but maps were
to be a threat to England. See, for ins tance, the
relatively r are until the 16th centur y. The archives
French adminis tr ative map on page 45, used for
holds seven maps and one char t dated before
militar y intelligence.
150 0. Two of these maps are included in this
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Ear ly maps were usually made for a specif ic
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1
1 WO LV E S , R A B B IT S AN D W I LD M E N :
2
A scene in the hills above Portrush peninsula, County Antrim, Ireland in 1580. 2 C A S TLE I N TH E SAN D: Camber Castle
near Rye, Sussex (see page 39). 3 L A K E L AN D F E LL S: Dynamic depiction of
hills surrounding the river valley and hamlet of Sadgill, Westmorland, drawn for a court case in 1578.
3
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pur pose, by hand, when needed. They dealt with
not be dr awn to scale, and the mapmaker might
a par ticular issue where multiple copies were not
even emphasise impor tant features by por tr aying
required, or with secret mat ter s such as defence
them dispropor tionately lar ger than their tr ue size.
where they were for the eyes of the r uling elite
Some maps are rough sketches , other s in pic tor ial
alone. What is shown is selec tive, chosen to ref lec t
s t yle. They might be dr awn to make bes t use of
a map’s pur pose. The K naresborough Cas tle plan
the piece of parchment or paper and so nor th may
(page 33), dr awn to show its defensive s tate, reveals
not be at the top. We may need to look at related
lit tle of its sur roundings , while we might wish that
documents to inter pret a map, to tell us who
the map of Cheam’s common f ields (page 31) could
made it , when, why, and what happened to it nex t ,
show more of the near by palace. Maps dr awn for
ques tions which ear ly maps of ten do not answer
opposing par ties in a legal case may show ver y
in themselves .
dif ferent views of the same land. This limited focus
If reading ear ly maps requires sk ill and a fresh
on the mat ter in hand resulted in maps of small
mind, it also of fer s us a window on the wor ld of
places such as remote moor lands but fewer of
centur ies pas t . It can be fascinating to glimpse los t
towns , regions or the whole countr y.
palaces and cas tles , long-fallen ancient crosses
The success of ear ly maps was measured by the
and deser ted villages , in a landscape of ten vas tly
ex tent to which they achieved their pur pose, r ather
changed from the one we see now. Until the las t
than their accur acy in the moder n sense. They may
quar ter of the 16th centur y mapmak ing was an
18 E A R LY M A P S
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4 A TRU E AN D PE R F EC TE PL AT TE :
5 GA LLEON S I N AC TION : These ships in
Manuscript maps were usually called plattes
full sail with cannons ablaze are drawn in the
during the 16th century.
sea on a map of Ireland (see page 35).
4
5
ac tivit y to which any educated man might tur n his hand, with no par ticular tr aining in car togr aphy but a k nowledge of the place that he drew. Mapmaker s used their creativit y to express the point of the map, and added embellishments in the for m of animals , mons ter s and ships . Their maps were made in a profusion of s t yles , shapes and colour s . The r ise of a class of professional sur veyor s using new techniques and sur vey ins tr uments brought a new er a of mathematically cons tr uc ted wor k . These men were wor k ing to commission and needed to please their employer s and adver tise their sk ills . They included scale bar s and compass indicator s , and titled their creations to explain what they showed and why they were made. Although these new car togr aphic sk ills were not employed consis tently, this per iod tr ansfor med the ar t of mak ing maps towards the k ind we k now today.
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View from a medieval monastery
W
C H E RT S E Y A B B E Y, S U R R E Y c .143 0
Why make a map? In the Middle Ages, reading and writing were
features of the map are in their appropriate position in relation to
rare skills and largely the preserve of monks, who carefully kept
each other, although not to a consistent scale.
copies of important documents such as charters and deeds about
The map has some of the quality of a picture, especially in the
their monastery’s estate bound together in a volume called a
way it shows buildings: houses in the village of Laleham across the
cartulary. Maps such as this one began to be made, as a different
river, the large barn above the church in which grain from the fields
and effective way of showing ownership and rights over land.
would have been stored, and two mills to its right, either side of
After the Benedictine abbey at Chertsey was involved in a
the river, in which grain was ground. The far mill’s wheel is drawn
property dispute in the 1420s, the monks left an account for future
facing the viewer, while just the top of the wheel of the near mill
custodians of the Abbey about its claims and where the lands in
is visible. The Abbey’s cluster of buildings is shown by a detailed
question lay. This map was drawn in the cartulary to illustrate
elevation of its church, with lit interior and open door, and drawn
points made in their text, and readily conveys important features
disproportionately large, as if to emphasise the map’s provenance;
in the case. The wisdom of the monks in creating this record
as the church itself must have towered over the flat landscape.
against future need was borne out when the cartulary was called
The colours on this map have kept their brightness across more
as evidence in later times; a note on the flyleaf states that it was
than half a millennium, through being kept in the dark, enclosed in
deposited in the Exchequer Court in 1637.
the cartulary. The red tile roofs sing out against the grey lead of the
The dispute was about grazing rights on the Abbey’s pastures
church roof, the blue waterways, green vegetation, and the wood
and meadows at certain times of the year, claimed by some of the
of Chertsey Bridge at right. It must have seemed to the monastic
tenants for longer than the Abbey allowed. The map notes the size
mapmaker that the landscape he drew, dominated by the church
and names of these low-lying fields, prone to flooding, and forming
materially and socially, was set to last forever. Yet the church he
an island enclosed by the River Thames. A smaller waterway cut
knew would be swept away in the next century by Henry VIII’s
across the land, dug by the monks to drive the Abbey’s water mills.
Dissolution of the Monasteries, leaving this map, as with so many
The fields are drawn fairly conventionally in plan, and the other
others in the archives, as a record of landscapes and times past.
S E A L O F C H E RT S E Y A B B E Y: This
11th century depiction of the Abbey church on its seal shows a building which differs in detail and angle from that on the map. DO M E S DAY R ECOR D: The entry for Chertsey Abbey in the Domesday
20 EARLY MAPS
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Book of 1086 shows that it had extensive estates.
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Drawing on 700 years' worth of maps from the National Archives, this stunning and fascinating collection is not just about the history of the maps, but is also an insight into the places—whether cities, countries or the whole world—and the social history of the time that the mapmakers captured.
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Published 2014 by Bloomsbury Publishing Plc, 50 Bedford Square, London WC1B 3DP www.bloomsbury.com Bloomsbury is a trademark of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc The National Archives logo © Crown Copyright 2014 The National Archives logo device is a trade mark of The National Archives and is used under licence. Text and maps © Crown Copyright 2014 The right of Rose Mitchell and Andrew Janes to be identified as the authors of this work has been asserted by them in accordance with the Copyright , Designs and Patents Act 1988. ISBN 978 -1408 -1- 8967-2 A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means – photographic, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping or information storage or retrieval systems – without permission of the publishers. This book is produced using paper that is made from wood grown in managed sustainable forests. It is natural, renewable and recyclable. The logging and manufacturing processes conform to the environmental regulations of the country of origin. Design: Nicola Liddiard, Nimbus Design Printed in Singapore by Tien Wah Press. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
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