REEDS COOKING AT SEA HANDBOOK On-board eating made healthy and delicious
Sonja Brodie
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Thomas Reed An imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc 50 Bedford Square London WC1B 3DP UK
1385 Broadway New York NY 10018 USA
www.bloomsbury.com www.adlardcoles.com REEDS, ADLARD COLES NAUTICAL and the Buoy logo are trademarks of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc This electronic edition published in 2017 by Bloomsbury Publishing Plc
First published 2017 © Sonja Brodie 2017 Sonja Brodie has asserted her right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988, to be identified as Author of this work. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage or retrieval system, without prior permission in writing from the publishers. No responsibility for loss caused to any individual or organization acting on or refraining from action as a result of the material in this publication can be accepted by Bloomsbury or the author. British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. Library of Congress Cataloguing-in-Publication data has been applied for. ISBN: PB: 978-1-4729-2779-8 ePDF: 978-1-4729-4450-4 ePub: 978-1-4729-4449-8 Typeset in 9 on 11 pt Myriad Light by Margaret Brain Bloomsbury Publishing Plc makes every effort to ensure that the papers used in the manufacture of our books are natural, recyclable products made from wood grown in well-managed forests. Our manufacturing processes conform to the environmental regulations of the country of origin. The author Sonja Brodie is a journalist and experienced sailor, who spent two years cruising on a yacht equipped with a single paraffin burner – and cooked ‘proper’ meals on board every day. She lives in Scotland. To find out more about our authors and books visit www.bloomsbury.com. Here you will find extracts, author interviews, details of forthcoming events and the option to sign up for our newsletters.
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Introduction
5
Pressure cooking
The galley
7
Benefits Selecting a pressure cooker How to cook with it
Safety Modifications Equipment
Underway
Butane/propane/LPG Paraffin/kerosene Methylated spirits/alcohol Other options In-port alternatives
Passage preparation Heavy weather Baking bread Dealing with freshly caught fish Tropical ingredients Regional variety
Boat pantry
Water
Cooking fuels
19
29
Canned goods Dry goods Fresh fruit and veg Meat and eggs Vegetarian considerations Herbs, spices, oils and vinegars Treats and snacks Drinks Heavy-weather larder
Food storage and preservation
44
51
CONTENTS
CONTENTS
57
70
Improving water quality on board Usage Storage Washing up
Foraging
81
Seaweed Greens Shellfish Herbs and spices, fruit and veg
Storage Preservation Pest proofing
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CONTENTS
Recipes Bread Breakfasts Cakes Couscous and other grains Curries Egg dishes Fish options Legumes Marinades Pan-fried breads and pancakes Potato ideas Rice options Salads Soups
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87
Further reading
139
Acknowledgements 140 Photo credits
141
Index
142
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Introduction
introduction Food on board even a small boat can be as exciting, varied and nutritious as anywhere else. Tales of the inevitability of monotonous cooking at sea have been greatly exaggerated! All it takes to eat well on board is a bit of organisation, use of common sense and a minimum of cooking effort. Even on an Atlantic crossing, for example, there is no reason not to enjoy fresh produce every day. It may be only an onion or a potato, but even that will raise the game compared with canned fare alone. Quite a lot of preparation should be done at home before any major sailing trip. One skill well worth polishing up is ‘speed cooking’. By this I mean knowing how to cook a range of dishes in less than 30 minutes – handy on land and even more so at sea (for some suggestions, see pages 87–138). You can adjust most recipes for on-board use by substituting a few ingredients, such as using oil instead of butter or powdered milk instead of fresh or UHT. 5
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INTRODUCTION
Introduction Adopting and familiarising yourself with the pressure cooker (see pages 51–56) is another skill that can be practised at home before you set out. And, of course, you can optimise your galley (see pages 12–17) and do your water-tank maintenance (see pages 70–77) while the boat is laid up in the off season. Don’t ignore safety issues (see pages 7–11); with just a few additions you can make on-board meals more comfortable for both cook and crew. It doesn’t really matter which fuel type your cooker uses; each has its fans and detractors. You can turn out tasty and nutritious meals on any of them. It’s just a question of getting used to your own setup and figuring out the best – and safest – operating techniques (see pages 19–26). Some cookers will take longer than others to boil the kettle, but boil it will. In general, keep things simple and take what you like to eat – and also be willing actively to seek out and try new foods in the regions you visit. Local foods are usually easier on the pocket and, of course, they are generally the freshest available. Some tips on stocking up your boat pantry can be found on pages 29–43. Also included are some methods of preservation (pages 46–50) and wild-food foraging tips (pages 81–86). Good stowage is paramount (see pages 44–45). You must not only be able to find your provisions easily and quickly; you also want them to remain secure in heavy weather and keep fresh as long as possible. Many find cruising in their own boat one of life’s most enjoyable experiences – and it is even better with good food. Fair winds and bon appétit! Sonja Brodie
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Safety
THE GALLEY
A lot of galleys are quite rudimentary. They have been designed with weekend sailing in mind or perhaps a week’s holiday, when you use it mainly to make cups of tea and when you tend to eat out more frequently than on a longer cruise. Hence such galleys need some adjusting for proper living aboard. Although space will always be tight, it can be thoughtfully maximised to store the equipment you’ll need. Likewise, the standard galley is not necessarily set up to withstand heavy weather, and some attention should be given to fastenings and covers.
Safety Safety is one of the primary concerns when you’re cooking underway. You may be cooking in challenging circumstances, with the boat rocking and rolling or at a steep angle of heel. Work surfaces are usually at some sort of angle (unless you’re on a multihull), and simple tasks such as draining hot water from a pot can become hazardous if there’s a sudden lurch.
Safety checklist ◆ Is fire-fighting equipment (extinguishers and blanket) easily accessible near the cooker? ◆ Does your cooker swing freely on its gimbals? ◆ Can you clamp your pots and pans securely on the hob? ◆ Would the cook benefit from a safety strap? ◆ Have you checked your gas installation? ◆ Do you have a plan for treating minor burns? ◆ Have you storm-proofed your galley?
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THE GALLEY
Safety Fire safety Other than the engine compartment, the cooker is the main risk for a fire on board. An up-to-date fire extinguisher should be easily accessible from the cooker, ideally on the way out to the cockpit. A fire blanket is a quick, effective and non-messy method of dousing a small fire and you should have one ready to hand in the galley. Other than the engine compartment, the cooker is the main risk for a fire on board.
Gimbals, clamps and safety straps Unlike on a weekend cruise, when you’ll be cooking mainly when stationary at the end of the day, on a longer cruise, perhaps with ocean passages, you’ll have to cook underway. That means you’ll want the cooker on gimbals, keeping it level as the boat swings under it and minimising the danger of pots being launched into the cabin. It is also useful to have a gimballed (i.e. level) work surface on which to put utensils and ingredients during meal preparations. Any rigid work surface will need to have substantial fiddle rails round it to keep things from drifting off. Another way of preventing equipment from sliding around while you’re cooking is by having some nonslip matting on
Nonslip matting is useful in your food preparation area. 8
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Safety
Retro-fitting gimbals Gimbals are normally easy to retro-fit. Many cooker models come with a separate gimbal kit; if yours doesn’t, ask a local metal fabricator or welder to make some to size. It’s a very good idea to include a mechanism that will give you the option of locking the cooker in the upright position so that it doesn’t swing when you lean against it in port.
THE GALLEY
work surfaces. However, this can be difficult to keep clean and is effective only up to a certain angle of heel.
Pot clamps will keep your pots and pans securely on the cooker; you’ll need a pair for each burner. They usually attach to the cooker frame and have big thumb screws to secure their position. Check that every pot and pan you’re planning to take fits snugly inside the clamps. If there are any that don’t, leave them behind. You can buy pot clamps for most cooker models. If the ones that fit your cooker are not available, don’t worry: they are simple things to have custom-made, or you might be able to fit/adapt pot restraints from another model with similar dimensions.
Pot clamps are essential. 9
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THE GALLEY
Safety Have a good look at your galley space from the cook’s perspective: ◆ Are there good handholds? ◆ Can the cook easily wedge himself in for those times when both hands are needed? ◆ If not, the cook might benefit from a safety strap that clips round him and holds him firmly by the cooker.
Gas check The main disadvantage of using gas as a cooking fuel is the danger of gas leaks, leading to gas accumulating in the bilges and potentially to an explosion. It is therefore vital to give the gas installation a good once-over or, even better, to have a registered gas installer do this. Points to check are: ◆ Is the gas locker properly vented? ◆ Is the gas bottle securely stowed? ◆ Are all hoses and connections in good order?
Gas leaks alert If you’re cooking with gas it may be worth your while installing a gas-leak detector, or bubble tester. This is installed near the outlet side of the regulator, providing a visible check for leaks in the form of a bubble. Another useful piece of kit is an automatic cut-off valve.
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Safety Burns from hot water spills are a real risk on board and need to be dealt with immediately. If you get a minor scald: ◆ Turn off the cooker. ◆ Get someone to pull you up a bucket of cool sea water. ◆ Cool the affected area for about 15 minutes. ◆ Apply 100 per cent aloe vera gel. ◆ Take painkillers if necessary.
THE GALLEY
Burn treatment
Pure aloe vera gel is an old herbal remedy for scalds and sunburn. Keep a bottle near the cooker, for instant cooling. It really works!
Storm-proofing A knockdown at sea is a possibility that must be prepared for; all it takes is a large steep wave striking the vessel broadside in heavy weather. The last thing you want when this happens is heavy, sharp or fragile objects from the galley flying about and injuring crew, or causing other damage or mess.
Making your vessel storm-proof Have a look around the cabin and imagine the boat at a 90-degree angle: ◆ Which lockers are potentially vulnerable? ◆ What would tumble out? ◆ How can items at risk be secured? ◆ What would definitely stay put and why? ◆ Can this be applied to other shelves/lockers? 11
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THE GALLEY
Modifications Once you’ve identified all of the above, storm-proofing the cabin is relatively straightforward and doesn’t need to be very expensive: ◆ Make storm covers for any open shelving. ◆ Install special fittings to floorboards and horizontal locker lids to keep them ‘locked’ down. ◆ Replace any cupboard/drawer fittings that don’t lock with fittings that have a secure catch. ◆ Secure any sliding doors with stoppers or replace them altogether. One thing to consider is that these covers and fittings should not impede day-to-day use of the galley or lockers. For example, snap-on storm covers made from heavy-duty canvas can be left attached at one end and rolled up when you’re not underway or conditions are mild. When underway with the covers in situ, you can still easily access galley equipment behind them by just undoing one or two snaps. Similarly, cam-type fasteners on floorboards or horizontal locker lids make equipment stowed underneath easily accessible while securing it neatly.
Modifications It takes only a few simple modifications to really improve a galley space. For example, a lot of the bulkheads and the upper part of the saloon are usually open space that could be used for food or equipment storage. Consider installing the following: ◆ Spice racks: spices are very important on board to make meals more interesting. A spice rack on a free bit of bulkhead might be the neatest solution to keeping a large variety near the cooker. It makes 12
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Modifications
THE GALLEY
the jars easy to find, for starters. Just make sure the rack is designed to keep the jars securely in place; they should be enclosed top and bottom, with an extra removable slat across the shelf; you can make a snap-on storm cover for the entire rack for extra security. Foam cut-outs placed round the jars are useful to prevent any rattling. ◆ Mug holders: since hot drinks are a crucial com ponent of any watch, a shelf near the companionway that holds all your mugs is extremely convenient. Again, make sure the mugs are securely held in place; if they’re not a snug fit in their holders, use foam cut-outs or tea towels to prevent rattling and, for added security, make a storm cover for the entire shelf.
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THE GALLEY
Modifications ◆ Additional lighting: add some extra LED lights to your galley to make cooking after dark easier and safer. A red LED light near the cooker is very useful so that you don’t lose your night vision when making a cuppa on night watch. ◆ Vegetable hammocks or netting: vegetable nets can be fitted to either bulkheads or the cabin ceiling. Depending on your headroom, the ceiling may be the ideal place to put them. These nets or hammocks are useful not only for fruit and veg storage, but also for a host of other items you may like to keep handy, such as binoc ulars, hats and gloves, sail ties, Thermos flasks etc. When they’re not needed, they are easy to tie out of the way or take down altogether. ◆ Extra handholds: these can be lacking on bigger boats but are crucial for the cook (not to mention any other crew making their way round the cabin in a seaway). It should always be possible to grab the next handhold before you let go of the previous one. ◆ Sea water in your sink: a sea-water intake will allow you to switch to using sea water for your washing up when you’re at sea or in an unspoilt anchorage, rather than having to use limited fresh-water supplies. Make sure the stopcock to switch between tank water and sea water is easily accessible.
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Equipment
THE GALLEY
Customise wherever you can so that the storage space fits your equipment. For example, customise the insides of your cupboards with plate and glass holders to fit your particular plates, bowls and glasses. This will minimise movement and rattling. Similarly, if you like a well-stocked liquor cabinet, consider bottle-holder inserts. Otherwise you’ll need a lot of tea towels!
Equipment It’s a good idea to spend a bit of time thinking about what you really need and use on board before equipping your vessel. Rather than just using old plates you’ve got lying around at home or buying a plastic picnic hampertype set, it might make sense to buy new equipment to fit the available space in materials that work well in the marine environment. It makes sense to buy new equipment that is designed for the marine environment.
Materials You can use china or glass, provided they’re properly stored. In fact, china plates may last longer than thin plastic plates which can be prone to UV degradation. And a lot of people consider that drinks taste better from glass than from plastic. When it comes to metals, they have to be able to withstand the salty environment. No mild steel – not on kitchen equipment, nor on fasteners; it will just rust in no time at all unless kept scrupulously oiled. Stainless steel is the preferred material here. Although aluminium also works, there are potential concerns about it leaching into foodstuffs. 15
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THE GALLEY
Equipment For knives and peelers, ceramic is a good nonmetal alternative to stainless steel. Ceramic knives can be washed in salt water with no danger of rust at all, though care must be taken to avoid chipping them. Food-grade silicone is another useful material to consider, especially for bowls and bakeware. Silicone bowls don’t take up a lot of space since they can be squished together and, even better, they don’t slide around or clank. Should one of them come flying at you, it’ll bounce off harmlessly. Silicone bakeware is easy to clean and needs only to be lightly greased – an advantage if you have an oven and plan to do your own baking.
What do you really need? Generally you need fewer of most things on board since you have no option but to wash up your dishes pretty much immediately. One mug/bowl/plate/glass per crew member should do, plus some extra ones for visitors. One size fits all Rather than bothering with all kinds of different glasses, including fragile wineglasses that are just begging to be smashed, go for one sturdy tumbler type that can be used for everything from water and juice to beer, wine and spirits. Bowls rather than plates Deep breakfast bowls are much more useful than flat plates on board; there is less risk of spillage, they are easy to hold with one hand and you can serve most dishes in them. Keep a few normal plates, though, for that well-deserved steak when you come into port after a long passage. 16
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Equipment
THE GALLEY
Embrace one-utensil eating Forget about using knife and fork; you’ll need one hand for the boat. A spoon is the most practical utensil for eating on board. Take extra spoons – you’ll be using lots of them and they have an unfortunate habit of disappearing overboard in a silver flash. Minimise your pots and pans Either figure out which pots and pans you’re most likely to use and leave the rest at home or, if you’d like to have the full range of options, buy a nesting set, which often comes with a detachable handle. Take an extra pot lid that fits the pressure cooker so that it can double as a large pot for pasta etc.
Useful equipment on board ◆ Thermos flasks (one for tea, one for coffee, one for food) ◆ Large lidded plastic bowl for baking or salads ◆ Bread board with crumb-catcher ◆ Whistling stovetop kettle ◆ Pressure cooker (see pages 51–56) ◆ Fish filleting knife ◆ Spare can opener ◆ Plastic pot scraper ◆ Microfibre dish towels and cloths ◆ Oven gloves ◆ Oven thermometer (if you have an oven) ◆ Stovetop oven (if you don’t have an oven)
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THE GALLEY
Equipment Oven and grill alternatives Don’t worry if you don’t have space in your galley for an oven or if none is fitted and your budget doesn’t stretch to it. Get what’s known as a stovetop oven instead. You can bake cake and bread in it and even make lasagne. Similarly, if you miss having a grill, you can get a stovetop toasting rack.
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An essential pocket reference for anyone who wants to eat better on board— especially if they are the one who ends up doing most of the cooking!
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