Swatch Reference Guide for Fashion Fabrics - Fabric Chart by Bloomsbury Publishing

Fabric Name

Count

Stage of Dye or Print

Weight Oz/Sq Yd

Greige goods Yarn dyed*

3.09 3.73

Spun*

Jacquard*

Damask*

96×60

Color-grown

7.02

Spun Spun Spun Spun Spun Spun

Basket weave* Plain weave Twill weave* Weft knit* Weft knit Weft knit

Oxford* Linen shirting Twill weave* Jersey* Jersey Jersey

160×60 48×48* 35×28* 40x40* 30x36* 38×38

Piece dyed Direct print* Natural white Greige goods* Piece dyed Piece dyed

1.54 5.31 7.64 4.85 5.64 5.17

Singeing

Cashmere / wool

Spun*

Twill weave

Flannel

68x54

Stock dyed*

5.79

Napping

Cultivated silk

Filament*

Plain weave

China silk

128×112

Discharge Print*

1.03

Wild silk

Twill weave

Herringbone

54×50

Yarn dyed*

5.42

Silk noil

Spun* Thick and thin spun yarns*

Plain weave

54×50

Piece dyed

6.15

Dupioni silk

Warp: Filament Weft: Slub filament

Plain weave

Shantung

102×78

Yarn dyed

2.7

Spun*

Twill

Gabardine

84×63

Piece dyed

4.19

Filament*

Plain weave

128×100

Piece dyed

4.16

Spun

Weft knit

Jersey

38×47

Piece dyed

4.12

Spun

Weft knit

Jersey

44×55

Greige goods

5.93

Rayon Bemberg® cuprammonium rayon Micromodal® Bamboo / spandex Tencel® Lyocell

Spun

Twill*

108×66

Piece dyed

7.14

Acetate

Filament

Plain weave

Gabardine* Plain weave lining fabric

92×58

Piece dyed*

2.7

Cocona® Polyester /coconut

Filament*

Plain weave

128×104

Piece dyed

2.04

Polyester

4 5

7 8 9 10 11 12

Cotton Cotton Organic colorgrown cotton Pima cotton Flax Ramie Hemp Wool Merino wool

19 20 21

Visible Finishes

Fabric Structure

80×52 88x75

Raw cotton Cotton

Yarn Contruction

Muslin Hampton twill*

Fiber Content

Plain weave Twill weave*

Swatch Number

Two-ply spun Single multifilament Spun Spun

1 2

Beetled

33 34 35

Spun

Weft knit

Jersey*

42×72

Piece dyed

5.72

Filament Warp: Monofilament Weft: Split film*

Plain weave

34×13*

Natural color

5.23

Plain weave

Tissue lamé

88×65

Yarn dyed

1.06

Rib knit

Brushed back wickaway

50x44

Piece dyed

5.45

Napped

Ripstop

96×94

Piece dyed

1.95

Ciré

Jersey Charmeuse*

22x36* 250×120

Piece dyed Piece dyed

6.34 2.56

X-static® wickaway

40x54

Piece dyed

5.81

Plain weave

44×16

Piece dyed

11.5

Poplin* Challis* Plain weave lining fabric

70×50 80×64

Piece dyed Bleached

4.21 3.3

130×84

Bleached

2.84

Minerale / Textured filament recycled polyester

Nylon Plain Filament* weave/dobby (polyamide) Acrylic Spun Weft knit Polyester Filament* Satin weave* Polyester / Textured filament* Pointelle jersey spandex Filament & Novelty Olefin Plain weave (polypropylene) yarns* Nomex® aramid Spun Rib weave* Rayon Spun Plain weave*

Rayon

Filament

Plain weave

Polyester

Warp: Filament Weft: Two-ply spun

Rib weave

Ottoman

216×50

Piece dyed

6.47

Cotton / microfiber poly

Microfilament & spun

Rib weave

Poplin

80x70

Piece dyed

4.21

Polyester

Novelty yarns: Bouclé, flake, ratine', filament, single & 2ply spun

Plain weave

Chanel type tweed

42×32

Yarn dyed

7.05

Rayon / spandex

Chenille

Plain weave

Chenille

21×18

Piece dyed

12.05

Polyester

Filament and eyelash

Jersey

Eyelash jersey

13×17

Piece dyed

7.27

Wool / acrylic

Spun & slub

Plain weave

Polyester

Filament

Rayon

Filament

Plain weave

Plain weave tweed Chiffon

100×80

Yarn & Stock dyed Direct print

Plain weave

Georgette

90×74

Discharge print*

35×28

6.18 1.76 2.86

Visible Finishes

Weight Oz/Sq Yd

Stage of Dye or Print

30 31

Count

Fabric Name

Metallic/poly/ nylon

Fabric Structure

Yarn Contruction

Fiber Content

Swatch Number 25

47.5% soy 47.5% organic cotton 5% spandex Glass

Emerized

Fiber Content

Yarn Contruction

Fabric Structure

Fabric Name

Count

Stage of Dye or Print

Weight Oz/Sq Yd

Visible Finishes

Warp: Monofilament* Weft: Multifilament

Plain weave

Organza

104×86

Piece dyed

0.99

Stiffened

Spun Spun Spun Spun* Spun

Plain weave Plain weave Plain weave Plain weave Plain weave

Organdy Voile Batiste / Lawn Gauze Gingham

94x64 76×74 124×92 48×36 102×68

Piece dyed Direct print* Piece dyed Blotch print Yarn dyed

1.49 1.65 1.63 1.95 2.86

Stiffened

Spun

Plain weave

Madras

78×74

Yarn dyed

2.91

Spun Spun Warp: Filament Weft: Textured filament and slub

Plain weave Plain weave

Chambray Challis

56×50 76×70

Yarn dyed Blotch print*

3.23 2.95

Plain weave

Shantung

100×62

Yarn dyed

2.86

Flax

Spun

Plain weave

Handkerchief linen

64×56

Piece dyed

3.34

Cotton

Spun

Half Basket weave

Canvas

80×30

Direct print*

8.81

Cotton

Spun

Basket weave

Sportswear or apparel canvas

92×60

Direct print

6.61

Cotton / spandex

Spun

Oxford

106×54

Piece bleached*

4.67

Cotton / polyester

Spun

Acetate

Filament*

Half basket weave Half basket weave Rib weave

Polyester

Filament

Rib weave

Cotton / spandex

Spun

Cotton /spandex

Spun

Acetate / cotton

Warp: Filament Spun*

Swatch Number

Polyester

45 46 47 48 49 50

52 53

Cotton Cotton Cotton Cotton Cotton 98% cotton 2% spandex Flax Rayon

Polyester

64 65

Weft:

Warp: Filament Weft:

Polyester / cotton Filament & 2 ply spun*

Polyester

Rayon

Filament Warp: Filament Weft: Overtwisted S & Z filaments

Oxford chambray Taffeta Iridescent tissue taffeta

96×38

Yarn dyed

4.69

160×60

Yarn dyed*

3.18

112x78

Yarn dyed

2.56

Rib weave

Broadcloth

144×64

Piece dyed

3.39

Rib weave

Poplin

104×54

Piece dyed

5.51

Rib weave

Bengaline

160×36

Piece dyed

6.02

Rib weave

Ottoman

128×56

Piece dyed

4.92

Rib weave

Tissue faille

154×72

Piece dyed

4.6

Rib weave

Crepe faille

122×62

Blotch print

3.11

Beetled

Fabric Name

Count

Stage of Dye or Print

Weight Oz/Sq Yd

188×88

Piece dyed

3.55

Pincord

112×60

Yarn dyed

4.85

Dimity

110×82

Piece dyed

2.86

Cotton ripstop

96x56

Piece dyed

5.61

96×72

Yarn dyed

4.53

72×56*

Yarn dyed

12.26

112×76

Yarn dyed*

11.3

Chino

168×72

Piece dyed

5.86

Mercerized

Uneven Twill

Hampton twill

90×78

Piece dyed

4.81

Mercerized

Spun

2:1 Twill

Gabardine

108×60

Piece dyed

6.11

Singed

Polyester

Textured filament*

2:2 Twill

Gabardine

80×52

Piece dyed

5.7

Cotton

Spun

Uneven Twill

90×48

Piece dyed

8.12

Cotton

Spun

Uneven Twill

Cavalry twill Drill or bull denim

80×48

Piece dyed

11.3

Rayon/polyester

2 ply spun*

Reversing twill

Herringbone

72×42*

Yarn dyed

5.15

Acrylic

2 ply spun*

Broken twill

Houndstooth

39×28

Yarn dyed

5.54

Acrylic / spandex

Filament

Twill

Glen plaid

102x74

Yarn dyed

5.72

84 85 86

Silk Polyester Silk

Filament Filament* Filament

Twill Satin weave Satin weave

Surah Bridal satin Charmeuse

176x104 400×62 340x130

Blotch print* Piece dyed Blotch print

2.08 4.32 2.04

Acetate / rayon

Warp: Untwisted filament Weft: Overtwisted filament*

Satin weave

Crepe-back satin

305x61

Piece dyed

4.26

Polyester

Warp: Filament Weft: Spun and slub

Satin weave

Antique satin

220×92

Piece dyed

3.11

Swatch Number

Fiber Content Polyester

Cotton/polyester

Cotton

Cotton / spandex

Spun

Cotton / spandex

Spun & Slub

Twill

Cotton / spandex

Spun

3:1 Twill

Cotton / spandex Spun and corespun

Cotton / spandex

Spun

Uneven Twill

Cotton / spandex

Spun

Wool / spandex

Warp: Filament Weft: S & Z filaments Spun (2 ply in the rib) Spun (2 ply in the rib)

Vertical rib weave Vertical rib weave Rib weave (dobby)

Jacquard

Colored Slub denim Microherringbon e Denim "Denim" Damask

Visible Finishes

Fabric Structure

Crepe de chine

Yarn Contruction

Rib weave

Spun

Silk / cotton

Visible Finishes

Cotton/polyester

Weight Oz/Sq Yd

Stage of Dye or Print

Cotton

Count

Warp: Filament Weft: Spun Spun

Fabric Name

Polyester / cotton

Fabric Structure

Fiber Content

Yarn Contruction

Swatch Number 89

230×130

Piece dyed

3.18

Napped

210×114

Blotch print

3.3

Satin weave

Flannel-back satin Sateen

Slack tension

Seersucker

78×62

Yarn dyed

2.82

Satin weave

Dobby weave

Dobby shirting

120×116

Piece bleached

1.81

Cotton

Warp: Filament* Weft: Spun Spun

Dobby weave

Dobby suiting

100×66

Yarn dyed

5.93

Cotton / spandex

Spun

Dobby weave

Bird's-eye piqué

168×56

Piece dyed

6.68

Cotton / spandex

Spun

Dobby weave

Waffle cloth

126×98

Piece bleached

3.78

Wool

Spun

Momie weave

Crepe suiting

88×52

Piece dyed

5.79

Worsted wool

Spun

Extra-yarn weave

82×76 (ground weave)

Yarn dyed

5.1

Cotton

Spun

Clip spot

84x72

Piece dyed

2.75

Polyester*

Filament*

Dotted swiss

84x74

Piece dyed

2.02

100

Polyester

Warp: filament Weft: Spun

Jacquard

Tapestry

144×96

Yarn dyed

7.05

101

Polyester

Filament

Jacquard

Filament damask

136×126

Yarn dyed

3.48

102

Cotton

Spun

Jacquard

190×100

Bleached

3.71

103

Polyester

Filament

Jacquard

160x120

Yarn dyed

5.45

104

Cotton

Spun

Double weave

114×68

Yarn dyed

1.99

Extra-yarn weave Extra-yarn weave

Tablecloth damask Brocade Double-weave gauze

Filament

Double weave

Double-weave satin

400x80

Piece dyed

7.46

106 107

Triacetate/ polyester/ spandex Silk Cotton

Filament Spun

Double weave Pile weave

Matelassé Terry cloth

168×160 64×46

2.38 9.23

108

Cotton / spandex

Spun

Pile weave

Velveteen

120×56

Piece bleached Piece dyed Overprint Paisley*

109

Cotton

Spun

Pile weave

Widewale corduroy

92×76

Piece dyed

8.81

110

Nylon

Filament

Pile weave

Velvet

82×72

Piece dyed

3.83

105

8.1

Bleached

Sheared and napped Sheared and napped Sheared and napped

Swatch Number

Fiber Content

Yarn Contruction

Fabric Structure

Fabric Name

Count

Stage of Dye or Print

Weight Oz/Sq Yd

Visible Finishes

111

Rayon

Filament

Pile weave

Panné velvet

180×96

Piece dyed

8.69

Sheared, napped and calendered

112

Rayon

Spun

Weft knit

Lingerie or tissue jersey

36×33

Piece dyed

2.22

113

Rayon/polyester /spandex

Spun

Weft knit

T-shirt jersey

42×43

Yarn dyed

5.34

114

Acrylic

Spun

Weft knit

16×16

Blotch print

4.71

115

Rayon

Spun and slub

Weft knit

38×42

Piece dyed*

3.69

116

95% polyester 5% spandex

Microdenier filament

Jersey

62×60

Blotch print

6.14

Filament

Jersey

50x68

Blotch print*

6.02

32x43

Yarn dyed

5.58

28×22

Yarn dyed

5.01

Brushed sweater jersey Slub jersey ITY (intertwist textured yarn)

119

Polyester /spandex Cotton/polyester/s pandex Polyester

120

Cotton/polyester

Spun

Rib knit

1×1 rib knit

30x42

Stock dyed

5.38

121

Rayon / spandex

Spun

Rib knit

2×2 rib knit

42x42

Stock dyed

5.31

122 123 124

Cotton Cotton Polyester

Spun Spun Spun

Jersey Rib knit Jersey

Piqué Thermal knit Pointelle

26×23 40×40 23x33

Yarn dyed Direct print Piece dyed

7.14 3.66 4.19

125

Acetate / spandex

Filament

1x1 Rib knit

Slinky

68×55

Flock print*

8.76

126

Polyester

Filament (tight and loosely twisted)

1x1 Rib knit

Onionskin

32×42

Direct print

3.89

127

Polyester

1x1 Rib knit

Matte jersey

68x36

Piece dyed

7.3

128

Polyester

68×50

Blotch print

2.98

129 130

Cotton* Polyester

Overtwisted filament Overtwisted filament* Spun Spun

12×18 12x13

Piece dyed Piece dyed

9.09 13.26

131

Rayon

Filament

Interlock

84x50

Piece dyed

3.75

132

Cotton

Spun

Interlock

72×40

Piece dyed

6.11

133

Silk

Filament

"Silk Jersey"

80x54

Overprint

4.9

117 118

Spun Spun

Polyspan

Jersey with miss "Denim" jersey stitches Weft knit Fair Isle jersey

1x1 Rib knit Jersey Purl knit Rib knit/double knit Rib knit/double knit Interlock

Sheer matte jersey Cable variation Purl-knit fabric

Napped

Weight Oz/Sq Yd 6.29

Yarn dyed

7.09

37×40

Yarn dyed*

5.46

Velour

30×40

Piece dyed

7.91

Pile knit

Knit velvet

48×46

Piece dyed

9.24

Double knit

135

Polyester/rayon

Spun & filament

Double knit

136

Rayon/spandex

Spun

Double knit

137

Nylon / spandex

138

Cotton

Filament (textured & flat) Spun

139

Cotton / polyester

Spun

Pile knit

Spun

Pile knit

Filament

140 141

80% Cotton / 20% Polyester Polyester /spandex

Double knit Pile knit

Double knit jacquard Argyle double knit Ponte di Roma Double-knit matelassé Knit terry Baby French terry

33x30 (each face) 26x18 (each face) 36x40 (each face) 56x94 (each face) 26×22

142

Polyester / spandex

Filament

Pile knit

Crushed knit velvet

38x48

Piece dyed

7.89

143

Polyester

Filament

Pile knit

Fleece

32×24

6.13

144

Polyester/cotton

Spun

Pile knit

Sweatshirt fleece

21x40

Stock dyed*

7.53

145

Nylon

Filament

40x47

Piece dyed

0.99

146

Polyester

Filament

46x35

Piece dyed

4.74

147

Polyester

Filament & sliver

24x34

Sliver & stock dyed

10.93

148

Nylon

Filament

80x68

Piece dyed

3.96

149

Nylon / spandex

Filament

60×70

Blotch print

5.58

150

Nylon / spandex

Filament

40x74

Piece dyed

4.08

151

Polyester

Filament

17x22

Piece dyed

0.58

152

Polyester

Filament

17x30

Piece dyed

1.49

153

Polyester / metallic

Filament & slit film*

24x11

Yarn dyed

3.07

Warp knit Tricot tricot Warp knit Sueded tricot tricot Warp knit Sliver knit (faux tricot - pile knit fur) Warp knit Satin tricot tricot Warp knit Swimwear tricot tricot Warp knit Athletic mesh tricot Warp knitTulle raschel Warp knit Raschel lace raschel Warp knit Cut press raschel

Visible Finishes

Stage of Dye or Print Piece dyed

Spun

Count

10.68

Polyester/rayon

Fabric Name

Piece dyed

Fabric Structure

5.49

Yarn Contruction

Yarn dyed

Fiber Content

6.2

Swatch Number

Yarn dyed

134

Sheared and napped Sheared and napped Sheared, napped and crushed Napped (both sides) Napped (one side only)

Sueded or emerized

Stiffened

Count

Stage of Dye or Print

Weight Oz/Sq Yd

Triple mesh

60x40

Blotch print

2.27

Power mesh

35×32

Piece dyed

2.15

Fishnet

26x60

Blotch print

2.79

Raschel crochet

38x41

Piece dyed

5.38

Point d’esprit

24×23

Piece dyed

2.79

26x21

Piece dyed

1.51

Resin dot coating

N/A

Stock dyed

0.76

Resin dot coating

N/A

Piece dyed

6.11

Embossed

N/A

Piece dyed

4.69

Pleather

52x38

Solution dyed

5.1

Sherpa

30x32

Piece dyed

13.35

Softshell

68x48

Stock dyed

9.1

Quilt

44x42 face

Piece dyed

8.14

Plain weave

Embroidered eyelet

70x74

Piece bleached

2.29

Filament

Tufted pile

Tufted chenille

25x28

Piece dyed

7.27

Filament N/A

Lace Film

Venise lace Film

N/A N/A

Bleached Print

9.86 16.1

Filament

155

Polyester

Textured filament

156

82% nylon 18% spandex

Filament

157

Nylon / spandex

Textured filament

158

Polyester

Spun

159

Nylon

Filament

160

Polyester

Filament

161

Polyester

N/A

Non-woven

162

Polyester

N/A

Non-woven

163

Polyester

N/A

Non-woven

164

Vinyl / polyester / spandex

None on front, filament on back

165

Polyester / acrylic

Filament

166

Polyester

Spun

167

Polyester

Filament

168

Cotton

Spun

169

Polyester / nylon

170 171

Polyester Vinyl

Fabric Structure

Nylon

Warp knit raschel Warp knit raschel Warp knit raschel Warp knit raschel Warp knit raschel Warp knit raschel Warp knit tricot

Bonded film on face, jersey on back Bonded pile knit, sueded tricot on back Bonded: Twill on face, nonwoven on back Fabric combination: knit face and back

Fusible tricot Interfacing Fusible nonwoven interfacing Imitation suede Needle-punched felt

Visible Finishes

Fabric Name

1.88

Yarn Contruction

Blotch print

Fiber Content

48×30

Swatch Number

Hex net

154

Embossing

173 174 175 176 177 178

Face: 81% nylon / 19% spandex Center: rubber Pig Pig/Lamb Polyester / metallic / spandex Cotton Cuprammonium Rayon

Weight Oz/Sq Yd

Gore-Tex®

140x70 (face)

Yarn dyed on face

5.01

Neoprene

1.5mm

67x112

Solution dyed

13.06

Leather Suede

N/A N/A

Piece dyed Piece dyed

7.85 6.98

Jersey

38×48

Stock dyed

4.03

Spun

Plain weave*

Madras*

128x76

Yarn dyed

2.69

Filament

Jacquard*

144x96

Piece dyed

3.23

Re-embroidered hex net (Point D'Esprit)

36×32

Cross dyed

1.83

90×46

Duplex print

2.15

92×84

Blotch print

3.52

66×61* 37x34 38x38 40x38 104×76

Blotch print Direct print Blotch print Overprint Discharge print Heat-transfer print

5.38 4.42 3.43 3.55 3.71

179

80% nylon 20% rayon

Filament and textured filament

Raschel

180

Polyester

Spun

Plain weave

181

Rayon

Spun

Plain weave / Challis

182 183 184 185 186

Spun Spun Spun Spun Filament

Plain weave* Weft knit Weft knit Weft knit Rib weave

Filament

Warp knit*

N/A

189 190

Cotton Polyester/rayon Rayon Rayon/cotton Rayon Polyester / spandex Heat-transfer paper Polyester Silk / Rayon

Filament* Filament

Rib weave Pile weave

Taffeta Burnout velvet

112x66 126×108

Flock print Burnout

2.82 3.18

191

Cotton / polyester

Corespun

Plain weave

Batiste burnout

104x74

Burnout

2.13

192

Cotton / polyester

Corespun

Jersey

Jersey burnout

36×44

Random burnout

2.22

193

Polyester / spandex

Filament

Jersey

Knit foil "Liquid lamé"

64×50

Foil print

5.45

187 188

Voile* Ditzy print (aka calico or liberty print) Toile du Jouy Jersey Slub jersey Jersey Crepe faille Swimwear tricot*

56×56

5.74

Visible Finishes

Stage of Dye or Print

Spun

Filament

Count

Fabric Structure

N/A N/A

Filament

Fabric Name

Nylon

Yarn Contruction

Fiber Content

Swatch Number 172

3 layer bonded film (herringbone bonded to a tricot) Bonded S foam (super light weight) Skin Skin

Tanned Tanned

Fabric Structure

Fabric Name

Count

Plain weave

Laser-printed batiste

73×65

195 196 197 198 199

Silk Cotton Cotton Cotton Cotton

Filament Spun Spun Spun Spun

Chiffon Plain weave Plain weave Twill Plain weave

Tie-dye Batik Ikat Flannel Flannelette

200

Polyester

Filament

Interlock

201

Polyester / spandex

Filament

202

Polyester*

203

Visible Finishes

Yarn Contruction Spun

Weight Oz/Sq Yd

Fiber Content Cotton

Stage of Dye or Print

Swatch Number 194

124x94 95x82 72x58 88x72 53x46

Laser print, pigment overprint Tie-dye Batik Ikat Yarn dyed Blotch print*

0.78 3.64 3.04 4.71 5.03

Sueded interlock

46x74

Piece dyed

5.26

Satin weave

Moleskin

350x100

Overprint*

7.23

Filament

Rib weave

Peachskin

176x70

Piece dyed

4.44

Acetate

Filament

Rib weave

192×52

Piece dyed

3.46

204

Polyester / rubber

Filament

Interlock

Moiré Taffeta Embossed interlock

Napped Napped Sueded / emerized Sueded / emerized Sueded / emerized Embossed

44x50

Piece dyed*

6.5

Embossed

205

Polyester

Filament

Hex Net

Pleated Hex Net

22x30

Piece dyed

1.65

Pleating

206

Polyester 65% Polyester 35% Cotton

Filament

Plain weave

Yoryu

112x68

2.2

Pleating

Spun

Plain weave

Plissé

120x78

Piece dyed

3.09

Embossed

Wool

Spun

Jersey

Fulled jersey (knitted melton)

N/A

Stock dyed*

6.91

Fulling

207 208

*Swatch facts with an asterisk are deliberately left out of the book for assignments and in-class experiments.

2.7