Fashion & Culture

Edited by Sarah Cheang, Royal College of Art, UK, Erica de Greef, African Fashion Research Institute, South Africa & Yoko Takagi, Bunka Gakuen University, Japan This edited collection draws together original, diverse, and richly refl ective critiques of the fashion system from both established and emerging fashion scholars, researchers and creative practitioners. Chapters straddle current calls for decolonization and inclusion, as well as refl ections on de-westernization, post-colonialism, sustainability, transnationalism, national identities, social activism, global fashion narratives, diversity, and more.

UK August 2021 • US August 2021 • 256 pages • 91 bw illus PB 9781350180062 • £24.99 / $34.95 • HB 9781350180055 • £75.00 / $100.00 ePub 9781350181304 • £22.49 / $28.32 ePdf 9781350180079 • £22.49 / $28.32 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Contemporary Indonesian Fashion

Through the Looking Glass

Alessandra Lopez y Royo, SOAS University of London, UK This book explores how contemporary Indonesian fashion has moved away from ‘national dress’ and ‘colonial fashion’ to claim its own distinct identity. Challenging the dominant Eurocentric model of fashion and beauty discourses, it explores the diversity and complexity of the Indonesia’s sartorial offerings, from traditional ikat-weaving to contemporary fashion blogging. Exploring clothing on the streets and in shopping malls, on the catwalk, in magazines, and online, the book examines how Indonesian fashion is made, presented, and consumed. Beautifully illustrated and deeply researched, it offers a new perspective on a rapidly developing new fashion capital.

UK July 2021 • US July 2021 • 256 pages • 40 bw illus PB 9781350237957 • £28.99 / $39.95 Previously published in HB 9781350061309 ePub 9781350061323 • £76.50 / $94.85 ePdf 9781350061316 • £76.50 / $94.85 Series: Dress and Fashion Research • Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Dress Cultures

Reina Lewis, London College of Fashion, UK and Elizabeth Wilson

Fashioning Indie

Popular Fashion, Music and Gender

Rachel Lifter, Parsons School of Design, The New School, New York, USA When indie rocker Pete Doherty began a relationship with supermodel Kate Moss in 2005, the indie music scene and its signature look reached the height of popular fashion. Fashioning Indie charts this rise and the subsequent emergence of 'festival fashion', an indie-inspired trend that became a persuasive fashion trope and lucrative marketing tool for British and American high streets. Lifter argues that, amidst these changes, the ideal indie fi gure transformed from the slender, white, guitar-playing man into the festival fashionista. It was she who negotiated the blurred lines of alternative and mainstream style, a blurring that defi nes 21st-century popular culture.

UK July 2021 • US July 2021 • 224 pages • 15 bw illus PB 9781350238077 • £28.99 / $39.95 Previously published in HB 9781350126329 ePub 9781350126343 • £67.50 / $83.76 ePdf 9781350126336 • £67.50 / $83.76 Series: Dress Cultures • Bloomsbury Visual Arts The Thin Ideal and the Segregation of Plus-Size Bodies

Paolo Volonté, Politecnico di Milano, Italy Average body mass in many Western cultures is getting larger and yet the fashion system seems mostly unchanged. Major fashion houses still limit their output to small sizes and the dominant ideal of the female body in fashion imagery is still thin. In the fi rst systematic study of fatness and thinness in the fashion industry, Paolo Volonté draws on infl uential literature on the body, beauty standards and the roles of clothing in society to explore the nature of the segregation of fat bodies in fashion and considers what the future may hold for consumers, designers and marketers alike.

UK September 2021 • US September 2021 • 256 pages • 15 bw illus PB 9781350126930 • £23.99 / $32.95 • HB 9781350126923 • £75.00 / $100.00 ePub 9781350126916 • £21.59 / $27.09 ePdf 9781350126954 • £21.59 / $27.09 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

The Psychopolitics of Fashion

Confl ict and Courage Under the Current State of Fashion

Otto von Busch, Parsons, The New School for Design, USA In this book Otto von Busch imagines fashion as a political state and reveals the acts of aesthetic superiority, micro-aggression and bullying which characterise getting dressed. Through four case studies, Von Busch suggests that it is in fact these experiences, and concurrent feelings of inclusion, adoration and power, which make fashion so pleasurable. Through these explorations, The Psychopolitics of Fashion offers new perspectives on fashion through the lens of politics, policing, affect and statehood, and even investigates the implications of these fi ndings for fashion designers.

UK August 2021 • US August 2021 • 200 pages • 49 bw illus PB 9781350242814 • £28.99 / $39.95 Previously published in HB 9781350102309 ePub 9781350102316 • £76.50 / $94.85 ePdf 9781350102323 • £76.50 / $94.85 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Wearing the Cheongsam

Dress and Culture in a Chinese Diaspora

Cheryl Sim, Phi Foundation for Contemporary Art, Montreal, Canada Associations between the cheongsam dress and Chinese cultural identity are well known but what are the meanings of the cheongsam for members of the Chinese diaspora? In a study grounded in fi rst-hand accounts of wearing, Cheryl Sim explores the practices and experiences of women in Canada, a major Chinese diaspora, and carries out the fi rst in-depth study of the cheongsam from this critical point of view. Covering issues such as heritage, ethnic identity, authenticity, nationalism, patriarchy and assimilation, Sim reveals the many meanings of the cheongsam. This book is the entry-point into discussions of Chinese dress and diaspora.

UK March 2021 • US March 2021 • 216 pages • 29 bw illus PB 9781350238060 • £28.99 / $39.95 Previously published in HB 9781788310819 ePub 9781350109872 • £76.50 / $94.85 ePdf 9781350109865 • £76.50 / $94.85 Series: Dress Cultures • Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Inventing the Display of Dress

Julia Petrov, Royal Alberta Museum, Canada The last decade has seen an explosion in the visibility of fashion as a cultural product, including its growing presence in museum exhibitions. This book delves into the history of fashion curating, highlighting historical continuities and developments in curatorial practices. Comparing exhibitions from different museums and decades – from the 1900 Paris Exposition Universelle to 2011’s Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty show at the Met – it makes connections between museum fashion and the wider fashion industry. By analyzing curation in the 20th and 21st centuries, Petrov defi nes the varied representations of historical fashion within British and North American exhibitions. This book is

available as open access through the Bloomsbury Open Access programme and is available on www.bloomsburycollections.com.

UK February 2021 • US February 2021 • 248 pages • 8 color and 61 bw illus PB 9781350229662 • £27.99 / $37.95 Previously published in HB 9781350048997 ePub 9781350049017 • £25.19 / $32.02 ePdf 9781350049000 • £25.19 / $32.02 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Fashion and Materiality

Cultural Practices in Global Contexts

Edited by Heike Jenss, Parsons School of Design, The New School, USA & Viola Hofmann, Institute of Arts and Material Culture, TU Dortmund University, Germany This cutting-edge study offers new insights into the relationships between fashion, bodies, and material culture, focusing on diverse cultural practices. Drawing on a series of historical and contemporary case studies, the collection explores how fashion and clothing shape our sense of body and self, and our social relationships. With contributions from leading international scholars, Fashion and Materiality takes the reader from Chinoiserie clothing in 18th century Europe to fast fashion in today’s China. Illustrated with 40 images, the book shows how dress and cultural identity are part of everyday actions like buying, wearing, and making clothing.

UK April 2021 • US April 2021 • 312 pages • 40 bw illus PB 9781350228078 • £28.99 / $39.95 Previously published in HB 9781350057814 ePub 9781350057838 • £76.50 / $94.85 ePdf 9781350057821 • £76.50 / $94.85 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Fashion Remains

Rethinking Ephemera in the Archive

Marco Pecorari, Parsons Paris, The New School, France Fashion ephemera – from catalogs and invitations to press releases – have long been overlooked by the fashion industry. This book redresses the balance, considering these objects not as disposable promotional devices, but as windows into hidden networks of collaboration and inspiration. Fashion Remains explores the unseen fashion ephemera produced by today’s international fashion designers. This book focuses on Antwerp’s avant-garde fashion scene and takes us from Maison Margiela to Dries Van Noten. With over 100 color images, Fashion Remains illuminates the far-fromfl eeting signifi cance of fashion ephemera as collaborative spaces for designers, stylists, art directors, and photographers.

UK February 2021 • US March 2021 • 256 pages • 102 colour illus HB 9781350074767 • £85.00 / $115.00 ePub 9781350074781 • £76.50 / $94.85 ePdf 9781350074774 • £76.50 / $94.85 Bloomsbury Visual Arts Archives, Dialogues, Fabrications

Edited by Katherine Townsend, Nottingham Trent University, UK, Rhian Solomon, Practising Artist, UK & Amanda Briggs-Goode, Nottingham Trent University, UK With contributions from a multidisciplinary range of scholars and researchers, Crafting Anatomies examines how new technologies have become integrated with traditional fashion and textiles techniques, bringing together art, science and biomedical approaches. Traversing the cutting-edge of design research, the chapters take us from the forgotten lives of historical garments to the potential of biofabrication to cross the boundaries between skin and textile.

UK August 2021 • US August 2021 • 344 pages • 120 color illus PB 9781350242432 • £28.99 / $39.95 Previously published in HB 9781350075474 ePub 9781350075498 • £76.50 / $94.85 ePdf 9781350075481 • £76.50 / $94.85 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Fashion Crimes

Dressing for Deviance

Edited by Joanne Turney, Winchester School of Art, University of Southampton, UK Both revealing and concealing, fashionable clothing is an excellent communicator of identity and in turn assumes social and moral signifi cance by coding wearers as ‘respectable’ or ‘deviant’. This interdisciplinary book develops new ways of seeing everyday dress and the individual body in public space. Exploring hoodies and trench-coats, knitted Norwegian Lustkoffe sweaters and lowslung trousers, it reveals how innocuous objects have been coded as deviant, both socially and in the media. Fashion Crimes shows where morality, social control and criminality meet, demonstrating how dress codes and terms such as ‘suitability’ or ‘glamour’ can be renegotiated.

UK January 2021 • US January 2021 • 256 pages • 27 b&w illus PB 9781350227217 • £28.99 / $39.95 Previously published in HB 9781780766980 ePub 9781788315647 • £26.09 / $33.25 ePdf 9781788315630 • £26.09 / $33.25 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Picturing the Woman-Child

Fashion, Feminism and the Female Gaze

Morna Laing, Chelsea College of Arts, UAL, UK The childlike character of ideal femininity has long been critiqued by feminists from Mary Wollstonecraft to Simone de Beauvoir. Exploring the ways this model has cemented inequality between the sexes, Picturing the Woman-Child interrogates the centrality of childlike women in the Western fashion media from 1990 and 2015, despite successive waves of feminism.

UK February 2021 • US February 2021 • 320 pages • 60 bw illus HB 9781350059580 • £85.00 / $115.00 ePub 9781350059603 • £76.50 / $94.85 ePdf 9781350059610 • £76.50 / $94.85 Bloomsbury Visual Arts