Pa u l H o l ly w o o d Photography by Peter Cassidy
Pa u l H o l ly w o o d Photography by Peter Cassidy
4
Kneadi n g As well as mixing the ingredients thoroughly together, kneading is crucial in developing the gluten in the flour in order to create a smooth, elaÌic dough. There are no hard-and-faÌ rules to kneading – how you do it is up to you. Start by learning how to simply fold the dough. You do this by tucking the top into the middle, turning the dough 45 degrees and repeating again and again. Ten minutes of this repetitive aÀion will give you soÓ, malleable dough. The other usual method is to Ìretch the dough by pushing the top of it away from you before folding it back into the middle, turning it 45 degrees and repeating, going over and over until the dough is smooth. You will get better at this as you make more bread: praÀice makes perfeÀ. It is important to knead the dough for at leaÌ five minutes – oÓen more like 10. As you work, you will see and feel the consiÌency of the dough changing. As the gluten develops, the dough will become more smooth, more elaÌic and more cogent: you will find that it wants to hold itself together in a ball, rather than Ìick to you and the work surface, and it develops a soÓ, smooth skin. As you make more bread, you will soon come to recognise that point when the dough has been kneaded suÇciently and is ready to reÌ and begin rising. You will find the consiÌency of many of my doughs, initially, to be pretty wet and Ìicky. This will give you better bread: lighter, more open-textured and altogether more delicious. As you knead, the dough should become less wet and Ìicky, but it should remain very soÓ. Kneading a soÓ dough does take a bit of confidence, but please do persevere. If you add much less water than I suggeÌ, or keep adding flour to the dough as you knead, you will end up with a Ìiff dough and a brick-like loaf of bread. That is why I advise that you 1
2
16
how to bake
3
4
Kneadi n g As well as mixing the ingredients thoroughly together, kneading is crucial in developing the gluten in the flour in order to create a smooth, elaÌic dough. There are no hard-and-faÌ rules to kneading – how you do it is up to you. Start by learning how to simply fold the dough. You do this by tucking the top into the middle, turning the dough 45 degrees and repeating again and again. Ten minutes of this repetitive aÀion will give you soÓ, malleable dough. The other usual method is to Ìretch the dough by pushing the top of it away from you before folding it back into the middle, turning it 45 degrees and repeating, going over and over until the dough is smooth. You will get better at this as you make more bread: praÀice makes perfeÀ. It is important to knead the dough for at leaÌ five minutes – oÓen more like 10. As you work, you will see and feel the consiÌency of the dough changing. As the gluten develops, the dough will become more smooth, more elaÌic and more cogent: you will find that it wants to hold itself together in a ball, rather than Ìick to you and the work surface, and it develops a soÓ, smooth skin. As you make more bread, you will soon come to recognise that point when the dough has been kneaded suÇciently and is ready to reÌ and begin rising. You will find the consiÌency of many of my doughs, initially, to be pretty wet and Ìicky. This will give you better bread: lighter, more open-textured and altogether more delicious. As you knead, the dough should become less wet and Ìicky, but it should remain very soÓ. Kneading a soÓ dough does take a bit of confidence, but please do persevere. If you add much less water than I suggeÌ, or keep adding flour to the dough as you knead, you will end up with a Ìiff dough and a brick-like loaf of bread. That is why I advise that you 1
2
16
how to bake
3
Plait Plaited loaves look beautiful, and the plaiting technique increases the surface area of the loaf, so you get lots of lovely cruÌ. When you shape these loaves, it is important to make sure that each Ìrand of your plait is the same size and length (weigh them if you need to), and to press the ends of the Ìrands together well to secure them when you Ìart and finish plaiting. To shape the moÌ ambitious eight-Ìrand plait (as for the variation on page 38), divide the dough into 8 pieces. Roll each out to a sausage , about 40cm in length – longer if you are feeling bold. Lay the long rolls out on a lightly floured surface and tack the gathered ends to the table with your thumb to form a sort of oÀopus . You are now ready to follow the sequence. As they are laid out in front of you, number the lengths of dough 1–8. Remember that every time you move the Ìrand the numbers will Ìill be 1–8 in front of you. FirÌ, take 8 under 7 and over 1 (you only do this once at the Ìart). Then repeat the following moves until the plait is finished: Take 8 over 5 Take 2 under 3 and over 8 Take 1 over 4 Take 7 under 6 and over 1 As you weave the Ìrands, keep the plait as even as possible , so the Ìrands are roughly the same length. When you have finished, secure the ends. You should have a pretty Ìraight, even plait . It is now ready to be placed on a baking sheet for proving.
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G E TTING S TA R TE D
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CHOLLA LOAF MAKES
1 loaf / PREP 3 hours / BAKE 20–25 minutes
The recÔe for this classic Jewish loaf was given to me by an old family friend, Sylvia Woolf. DeÍite the richness of the dough, the bread is very light, with a delicate sweetness from the sugar and milk. Traditionally served at Passover, it is good at any time of the year for breakfaÌ or tea, juÌ sliced and buttered. 500g Ìrong white bread flour, plus extra for duÌing 10g salt 25g caÌer sugar 10g inÌant yeaÌ 30g unsalted butter, soÓened 2 medium eggs, lightly beaten, plus an extra egg for glazing 50ml warm milk 180ml cool water
1. TÔ the flour into a large mixing bowl and add the salt and sugar to one side of the bowl and the yeaÌ to the other. Add the butter, the 2 beaten eggs and the milk, then half the water. Turn the mixture round with your fingers. Continue to add water, a little at a time, until you’ve picked up all the flour from the sides of the bowl. You may not need to add all the water, or you may need to add a little more – you want dough that is soÓ, but not soggy. Use the mixture to clean the inside of the bowl and keep going until the mixture forms a rough dough. 2. Lightly flour the work surface, then tÔ the dough onto it and begin to knead. Keep kneading for 5–10 minutes. Work through the initial wet Ìage until the dough Ìarts to form a soÓ, smooth skin. Add a little flour if you need to, but don’t overdo it. 3. When your dough feels smooth and silky, put it into a lightly oiled large bowl. Cover with a tea towel and leave to rise until at leaÌ doubled in size – at leaÌ 1 hour, but it’s fine to leave it for 2 or even 3 hours. 4. Line a baking tray with baking parchment or silicone paper. 5. TÔ the dough onto a lightly floured surface. Fold it inwards repeatedly until all the air is knocked out and the dough is smooth. Divide it into 3 equal pieces. Roll each piece out to a sausage, about 22cm long. Join the 3 pieces together at one end, ready to plait the Ìrands. Start with the outer piece on the right and liÓ it over the middle piece, then liÓ the piece on the leÓ over the middle, then the right over the middle and leÓ over the middle. Repeat this sequence until you reach the end. Tuck the ends underneath to neaten. LiÓ the dough onto the prepared baking tray. Beat the remaining egg and brush over the top of the loaf. 6. Put the tray inside a clean plaÌic bag, making sure the bag doesn’t touch the dough. Leave to prove for about 1 hour, or until the dough is at leaÌ doubled in size and Írings back quickly if you prod it lightly with your finger. Meanwhile, heat your oven to 200˚C. 7. Bake the loaf for 20–25 minutes or until it sounds hollow when tapped on the base. The loaf will colour quickly due to the sugar and egg, so keep an eye on it. Leave to cool on a wire rack.
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S TIL TON A ND G R AP E F L A TBREADS MAKES
12 / PREP 2 hours / COOK 5–6 minutes per flatbread
The layer of melted cheese in these delicious and unusual flatbreads gives them a rich, slightly flaky texture. I often serve them, Ìill warm, with a seleÀion of dÔs, such as tzatziki, guacamole and an aubergine dÔ. 500g Ìrong white bread flour, plus extra for duÌing 10g salt 10g inÌant yeaÌ 30g unsalted butter, soÓened 310ml cool water 250g Stilton, crumbled 24 seedless green grapes, halved Olive oil for cooking
1. Put the flour into a large bowl and add the salt to one side and the yeaÌ to the other. Add the butter and half of the water and mix with your fingers to bring the ingredients together. Gradually add the remaining water, a little at a time, until you’ve picked up all the flour from the sides of the bowl. You may not need to add all the water, or you may need to add a little more – you want dough that is soÓ, but not soggy. Use the mixture to clean the inside of the bowl and keep going until the mixture forms a rough dough. 2. TÔ the dough onto a lightly floured surface and begin to knead. Keep kneading for about 5 minutes. Work through the initial wet Ìage until the dough Ìarts to form a soÓ, smooth skin. 3. When your dough feels smooth and silky, put it into a lightly oiled bowl. Cover with a tea towel and leave to rise until at leaÌ doubled in size – at least half an hour, but it’s fine to leave it for 1, 2 or even 3 hours. 4. TÔ the dough onto a lightly floured surface. Fold it inwards repeatedly until all the air is knocked out and the dough is smooth. Divide the dough into 12 pieces and roll each piece into a ball. 5. Make an indentation in each ball and put about 20g of crumbled Stilton and 4 grape halves inside . Pinch the dough together over the filling to seal it in. 6. Press each filled dough ball gently with your hands then roll it out with a rolling pin to a circle, about 18cm in diameter. The grapes will burÌ and leak a little juice as you do this but don’t worry; use a little more flour to Ìop the dough Ìicking. 7. Heat a frying pan with a little olive oil over a medium-high heat. Fry each flatbread for 2–3 minutes on each side, until golden brown and puffy. Leave them to cool slightly on a wire rack, then serve.
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5. Make an indentation in each ball and put about 20g of crumbled Stilton and 4 grape halves inside . Pinch the dough together over the filling to seal it in. 6. Press each filled dough ball gently with your hands then roll it out with a rolling pin to a circle, about 18cm in diameter. The grapes will burÌ and leak a little juice as you do this but don’t worry; use a little more flour to Ìop the dough Ìicking. 7. Heat a frying pan with a little olive oil over a medium-high heat. Fry each flatbread for 2–3 minutes on each side, until golden brown and puffy. Leave them to cool slightly on a wire rack, then serve. FLAVOURED BREADS
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PASSION FRUIT SOUFFLES MAKES
6 / PREP 40 minutes / BAKE 10–12 minutes
These light, delicate souÜés have a superb flavour and make a very elegant dessert. Serve them as soon as they come out of the oven, without delay, as they will quickly Ìart to subside. They’re surprisingly easy to make. Melted unsalted butter for greasing 140g caÌer sugar, plus extra for duÌing 6 medium egg whites and 2 egg yolks 300ml passion fruit juice (sieved from 20–25 fruits, or good-quality passion fruit juice/smoothie from a carton) Icing sugar for duÌing
1. Heat your oven to 220˚C. Brush 6 deep ramekins with melted butter and duÌ with caÌer sugar. 2. In a large bowl, using an eleÀric hand-held whisk, whisk the 2 egg yolks with 70g of the sugar for at leaÌ 5 minutes until the mixture is pale and thick and holds a trail when the beaters are liÓed. 3. In another clean bowl, whisk the egg whites until they hold soÓ peaks, then whisk in the remaining 70g sugar. 4. Add 60ml of the passion fruit juice to the egg yolk mixture and mix well. Stir one-third of the whisked whites into the yolk mixture, then carefully fold in the remaining whites. 5. Fill the ramekins almoÌ to the top with the souÜé mixture and run your finger around the edge to liÓ the mixture away from the side slightly (this helps it to rise evenly). Bake for 10–12 minutes until well risen and golden on top. 6. Immediately duÌ the souÜés with icing sugar and serve. Use the remaining passion fruit juice as a sauce – I like to break into a souÜé with a Íoon and pour passion fruit juice inside.
BISCUITS, PUDDINGS & CAKES
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Ra spberr y Danis h makes
28 / prep 3 hours / bake 20 minutes
Good raÍberries should have a deep flavour to Ìart with and when baked, this intensifies even further, making them really wonderful on a paÌry. Enhanced with a trickle of lemony icing, these are among my favourite Danish – and the recÔe is easy to adapt for other fruit too (see variations, below). 1 quantity Danish paÌry dough (page 000) Flour, for duÌing 250g raÍberries, plus extra to finish if you like 1 quantity crème patissiere (page 000) 2 medium eggs, beaten with a Ílash of milk 150g sieved apricot jam For the lemon water icing 200g icing sugar 40ml water 1 lemon, zeÌed
1. Line four or five baking trays with baking parchment or silicone paper. 2. Remove the dough from the fridge and, on a lightly floured work surface, roll it into a reÀangle juÌ over 30cm x 53cm and about 7mm thick. Trim it so it has neat edges, then cut the reÀangle into 7.5cm squares. On each square, make 2.5cm cuts from each corner going diagonally almoÌ to the centre. Fold four of the corners in to the centre on each to make a Ìar shape. 3. Put the Ìars onto the baking trays – six on an average tray is ample. Put each tray inside a clean plaÌic bag and leave to rise at cool room temperature (18–24˚C) until at leaÌ doubled in size – around 2 hours. 4. Heat the oven to 200˚C. 5. Put a tableÍoon of crème patissière into the middle of each paÌry and top with three or four raÍberries. Brush the exposed dough with the egg wash. Bake for 15–20 minutes until golden brown. 6. While the paÌries are baking, put the apricot jam into a small saucepan with a Ílash of water and warm gently, Ìirring occasionally, to thin it down. While the Danish paÌries are Ìill hot, brush them with the apricot jam. You can, if you like, add more fresh raÍberries at this point too. 7. When the paÌries are cooled, make the icing by putting all the ingredients in a bowl and Ìirring them together. DÔ a paÌry brush into the icing and dab around the edges of each paÌry.
bl ue berr y Danis h Use 500g blueberries in place of the raÍberries. Press four blueberries into the crème patissière on each paÌry before baking. Add the remaining raw blueberries once the paÌries have come out of the oven. Glaze and ice as for the raÍberry Danish.
Apr ico t Danis h Use 3 x 220g tins apricot halves in place of the raÍberries. Drain the apricots well and place one half in the centre of each paÌry, on top of the crème patissière, before baking. Glaze and ice as for the raÍberry Danish.
C roi ssant s, dani sh & brioc h e
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Ra spberr y Danis h makes
28 / prep 3 hours / bake 20 minutes
Good raÍberries should have a deep flavour to Ìart with and when baked, this intensifies even further, making them really wonderful on a paÌry. Enhanced with a trickle of lemony icing, these are among my favourite Danish – and the recÔe is easy to adapt for other fruit too (see variations, below). 1 quantity Danish paÌry dough (page 000) Flour, for duÌing 250g raÍberries, plus extra to finish if you like 1 quantity crème patissiere (page 000) 2 medium eggs, beaten with a Ílash of milk 150g sieved apricot jam For the lemon water icing 200g icing sugar 40ml water 1 lemon, zeÌed
1. Line four or five baking trays with baking parchment or silicone paper. 2. Remove the dough from the fridge and, on a lightly floured work surface, roll it into a reÀangle juÌ over 30cm x 53cm and about 7mm thick. Trim it so it has neat edges, then cut the reÀangle into 7.5cm squares. On each square, make 2.5cm cuts from each corner going diagonally almoÌ to the centre. Fold four of the corners in to the centre on each to make a Ìar shape. 3. Put the Ìars onto the baking trays – six on an average tray is ample. Put each tray inside a clean plaÌic bag and leave to rise at cool room temperature (18–24˚C) until at leaÌ doubled in size – around 2 hours. 4. Heat the oven to 200˚C. 5. Put a tableÍoon of crème patissière into the middle of each paÌry and top with three or four raÍberries. Brush the exposed dough with the egg wash. Bake for 15–20 minutes until golden brown. 6. While the paÌries are baking, put the apricot jam into a small saucepan with a Ílash of water and warm gently, Ìirring occasionally, to thin it down. While the Danish paÌries are Ìill hot, brush them with the apricot jam. You can, if you like, add more fresh raÍberries at this point too. 7. When the paÌries are cooled, make the icing by putting all the ingredients in a bowl and Ìirring them together. DÔ a paÌry brush into the icing and dab around the edges of each paÌry.
bl ue berr y Danis h Use 500g blueberries in place of the raÍberries. Press four blueberries into the crème patissière on each paÌry before baking. Add the remaining raw blueberries once the paÌries have come out of the oven. Glaze and ice as for the raÍberry Danish.
Apr ico t Danis h Use 3 x 220g tins apricot halves in place of the raÍberries. Drain the apricots well and place one half in the centre of each paÌry, on top of the crème patissière, before baking. Glaze and ice as for the raÍberry Danish.
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001-005 Prelims HTB.indd 4
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001-005 Prelims HTB.indd 5
Intro ductio n
6
ge t t in g started wi th bread
8
Basic Breads
32
Flavoured Breads
78
Sourd ough
126
Croissa nts, Dani sh & Bri oche
160
Biscuits, Puddi ngs & Cakes
192
Tarts & Pies
260
Directory
298
Index
299
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