5 Acknowledgements 8 Introduction
Part One: Commentators
Visual Centrepiece
Part Two: Designers
16 GLENN ADAMSON The slogan T-shirt as a postmodernist device
48 NEIL BOORMAN The slogan T-shirt’s relationship to branding
74 PHILIP DE MESQUITA T-shirt entrepreneur and former Camden Market vendor
102 The Gendered
114 Katharine Hamnett
104 The Technological
117 Barnzley Armitage
19 SAM BULLY John Lennon and Yoko Ono’s use of slogans on T-shirts
50 SCOTT MADDUX The cult value of the slogan T-shirt
76 ROBIN BENNETT at A-non Brand The slogan T-shirt’s presence on the festival circuit
106 The Questionable
120 Vexed Generation
108 The Marvellous ‘n’ The Miscellaneous
124 6876
23 JON SAVAGE and JAMIE REID Punk’s use of slogans on T-shirts 30 DR MATTHEW WORLEY The slogan T-shirt as a subcultural tactic 33 SHEHNAZ SUTERWALLA The slogan T-shirt as a site of resistance 35 ERIC ROSE Vivienne Westwood enthusiast 40 HOLLY JOHNSON Frankie Goes To Hollywood frontman 42 CHRIS SANDERSON at The Future Laboratory The slogan T-shirt as a lifestyle tool 44
CHRIS COLEMAN at WGSN The slogan T-shirt’s relationship to trends and appropriation
46
JULIAN VOGEL at Modus PR The slogan T-shirt as a marketing tool
52
SIMON LEE at Simon Lee Gallery The relationship between the slogan T-shirt and high art
54 LARISSA CLARK at Environmental Justice Foundation The slogan T-shirt as a campaign tool 57 SHUMON BASAR The slogan T-shirt as a political tool 59 HOWARD BESSER Political slogan T-shirt collector 63 DR MATT COOK The slogan T-shirt’s relationship to queer culture 66 DR CLARE ROSE The morals of language on slogan T-shirts 69 FIONA CARTLEDGE The presence of female empowerment on slogan T-shirts during the ’90s 72 DANIEL PEMBERTON The presence of dance music on slogan T-shirts during the ’90s
128 YMC 80 MARK WIGAN The slogan T-shirt’s relationship to club culture
130 Jeremy Deller 132 Scott King
84 ROGER BURTON at Contemporary Wardrobe The vintage value of the slogan T-shirt
135 Gerard Saint at Big Active
87 MICHAEL KOPELMAN at Gimme 5 Stüssy T-shirts
138 Experimental Jetset
89 NAMALEE BOLLE at SUPERSUPER! BOY T-shirts
144 Iain R Webb
92 NAVAZ BATIWALLA at Disneyrollergirl Martin Margiela T-shirts
151 Toby Mott
95 ALEX FURY and PAUL HETHERINGTON at SHOWstudio The downloadable T-shirt project
158 I Love Boxie
98 ZACHARY PULMAN The Tourist T-shirt 100 MATT SNOW A visual chronicle of the screenprinting process
164 Dr Noki
141 2k By Gingham
147 Antoni & Alison
155 Karen Savage
161 Cassette Playa
169 Ian Warner and Oliver Miller at SLAB Magazine 171 Delay No More 174 Topshop