6 minute read
Circular Fashion
from Blush Spring 2021
THE ABCS OF CIRCULAR FASHION
A mode for art, expression, liberation, and rebellion, fashion can also help restore humans as full participants in Earth’s cyclic processes of life. Circular fashion is regenerative by design. Just like returning nutrients to the ecosystem at the end useful life, circular fashion is rooted in the continuous flow of resources: a representation of symbiosis whereby fashion mutually benefits people and the planet. All of the industry’s notorious waton plundering of the land, not to mention labor exploitation, often culminates in mass disposal— tens of millions of tons landfilled, annually, to be exact. Despite the mass amounts of existing textiles trashed, more and more is produce... all to be thrown away… again? Here’s the solution: redefine our definition of waste and treat it as a valuable resource, not as garbage. Give these would-be discards a new purpose, using the least amount of resources and turning the vicious linear cycle into a closed-loop, healing one, so fashion is high-impact—but for the right reasons. With a creative ethos, fashion can take on the role of renewal, becoming enduring, timeless, and treasured again.
Biophilic Design
Regenerative design, inspired by nature. Textile innovation and bio- technology embodies this design philosophy, inspired by nature and working in tandem with it. Non-edible food processing byproducts are used to create wearable garments with minimal environmental impact. From vegan leather made with pineapple leaf fibers to yarns made from kelp, one of the most regenerative organisms on the planet, these materials use available resources and can be returned safely back to Earth. Using food waste as a resource embodies balance, channeling the self-sustaining systems found in nature. Beyond waste diversion, circular fashion is defined by its intersectionality, promoting social and ecological justice throughout the fashion life cycle. Engaging in the circular economy means dismantling systemic causes of social and environmental degradation. Keeping things in circulation means less production, and less production means less pollution and resource extraction, inherently improving quality of life: cleaner water, better air quality, and improved health. Let’s take a look at the big picture–the circular model helps fight the climate crisis, protecting biodiversity while amplifying silenced voices in the global fashion industry. Circular fashion’s ethical facet means creating a just space for humanity through social equity, education, income, and health, all of which must be bolstered in this model to drive action in building a better, non-oppressive system.
COMMODIFICATION OF CLOTHING
We’re living in a throwaway culture—but why?! Corporate greed and the produce-more-for-cheap business model persists under the veil of seemingly innocent clothing purchases, coupled with an overt lack of transparency. Simply put, we’ve been wired to expect low prices, but at high costs—and turn over our closets each season to grasp after constantly-fleeting trends. So… now that we understand the ABCs of circular fashion, let’s escape from habitual modes of thought and expression, hold companies accountable, and add value back into the things we once deemed as disposable commodities.
Here’s How to Close the Loop
1. Demand change from corporations and the fashion industry that promote heedless extraction, pollution, and consumption. Reach out by contacting the companies directly and avoid fueling these detriments by buying less. 2. Opt for 100% natural fibers that can safely return back to Earth, avoiding petroleum-based, synthetic textiles like polyester, nylon, and acrylic that also release pervasive microplastics. All the more reason to divert these textiles (that are about as biodegradable as plastic bags) from landfill!
3. Reuse, reduce, repair! Yes, engaging in the circular economy, on an individual level, is as simple as thrifting instead of buying new, reusing instead of replacing, and repairing instead of discarding! Let’s buy things that bring us joy, and not just for a week— why do we have commitment issues with our clothing? Upcycle and swap clothes if you’re in need of a refresh (precisely why we need to treat our clothes with lots of TLC)! It’s all about disrupting the antiquated system and embracing longevity, with a focus on the entire scope of a garment: its inception, our consumption, and the garments’ end of life. This new, dynamic approach to production puts the planet, our future, and frankly our lives back into our hands. Let’s change the destination from in the landfill (or incinerator) to in the loop!
KEEPIN’ IT IN THE LOOP
100 billion garments produced per year. One garbage truck of textile waste produced every second. Companies sitting on billions of dollars worth of unsold textiles. These are all wasteful byproducts of the infamous fast-fashion model, and with a little imagination, we can think outside of these confines to bring continuity to the otherwise finite product life cycle. To transform this linear model, we can bridge the disconnect and “close the loop.” Where does all of this excess inventory and deadstock fabric go in a circular system? The recycled material, “shoddy,” sees circularity in action and embodies the zero-waste ethos: this yarn is made by shredding, grinding, and mixing scraps of textile rejects, regenerated into a useful material for stuffing, insulation, and even clothes. This is just one way that we keep what already exists in circulation instead of wasting and producing more.
isconnect and “closTo d transform t h is l i n ear model , we can bridge the and It’ s time to rethink, reg e the loop . ”
group, and reimag ine every thing . The change has to occur within us f rst. KANTAMANTO & SECOND-HAND-CITY Kantamanto, A.K.A. “second-hand-city,” is a model of what the Global North now calls “sustainability,” the often unrecognized pioneers of the closed-loop ecosystem. They are the recipients of massive amounts of second hand clothing exports, becoming the dumping grounds for the excess of textiles. This global textile hub in Ghana is the largest second hand market in the world, representing a vast ecosystem of people and makers that challenge the constructed notion of disposability. The average Kantamanto shopper has an intimate understanding of how clothing is made and views secondhand as material for customizing. Waste is built into the business model. The different culture and interaction with clothing does not view clothing as a disposable commodity, and it’s integral that we channel this mindset to rewire the cycle. From the product’s conceptualization, materialization and ultimate disposal, there are numerous environmental and social implications that are often ignored for temporary, monetary gain. Circular fashion means redefining the formerly fruitless bottom line, “closing the loop” to decrease the strain on people and the planet—the real stakeholders. The garment’s end of life is introduced in its inception. It’s more than a second-chance, it’s the complete transformation of fashion—claiming its own new, intersectional identity. Closing the loop redefines the industry ecosystem and our place in its dynamic network, linking us together through energy flows, promoting interconnectivity and rejecting disposability. While linear fashion is often associated with excess, circular fashion can be a mode for T H E REAL BOTTOM LINE just systems, and environmental transformation. After all, what is the point of systematically engaging in a vicious cycle, wrought with mindless speed and unfulfilling consumption that seems to only benefit from its own acceleration? It’s time to rethink, regroup, and reimagine everything. The change has to occur within us first.
