Rocky Mountaineer

A golden ticket on the rocky mountaineer

Luxury on Canada’s premier train jourmey arrives in many forms, discovers Steve Hartridge on the two-day Passage to the West itinerary

Look to your right, there is a pair of ospreys nesting on top of an electricity pylon,” bellows Kevin, our train host-cum-onboard naturalist.

The utility poles are a favourite resting ground for the birds, their snow-capped heads and yellow eyes visible above a huge pile of twigs and leaves draped over the power lines – an avian tower fire waiting to happen

Seat with a view

Later, Kevin – who I discover wears several ‘hats’’ including geologist, archaeologist, historian and even sommelier – has a bigger prize to point out to us. For there on the other side of the slow-foaming Thompson River is a black bear, lumbering down to the water’s edge for some midday refreshment.

While others rush to the outside viewing platform, one of the features of this GoldLeaf carriage, I don’t bother fumbling to open the camera on my phone but instead just relish the moment as I watch the bear dip his brown snout into the rock-strewn water.

The Rocky Mountaineer travels at a top speed of 35mph but the driver is happy to slow the train down when wildlife come into view.

Gold star memories

It is an unforgettable moment and, over the course of the two-day Passage to the West trip from Vancouver to Banff – one of several routes the Rocky Mountaineer travels – I have trouble ranking my top ‘luxurious’ experiences and priceless memories.

Where should I place the red carpet welcome that ushered us onto the polished blue-andgold coloured carriages in Vancouver or rank the changing cast of wildlife (we also see longhorned sheep and elk)?

Perhaps my most enduring memory will be of the ever-changing scenic backdrop: from the lush green fields of the Fraser Valley to the river canyons to the waterfalls that hurtle down ancient rock-faces (camera at the ready for Hell’s Gate). Then there is the stark arid

Five-star dining on the rocky mountaineer

Book it with...Canadian Affair

The operator has a 15-day Rockies & Alaska Cruise, The Complete Western Adventure! - Gold Leaf” holiday that includes the two-day Passage to the West Rocky Mountaineer trip, from Vancouver to Banff, in GoldLeaf. Prices are £4,279pp, for a May 19 2023 departure. Flights are with WestJet from London Gatwick. canadianaffair.com

mount robson looms large over the rocky mountaineer

desert of British Columbia’s interior and the majestic peaks of the Canadian Rockies.

Or perhaps it’s the sumptuous five-star service, comfort and cuisine on offer in GoldLeaf? For whether it was enjoying a breakfast of spinach and cheese soufflé or a lunch of Lois Lake Steelhead salmon accompanied by fine Canadian wines from the Okanagan, the GoldLeaf dining experience never falls short of being sumptuous.

A soaring experience

There is also something immeasurably luxurious about the GoldLeaf bi-level dome’s glass-windows and roof. Those 180-degree uninterrupted views really come into their own when the peaks of the Rockies begin to cluster on the second day of the trip. Most impressive is Mount Robson, at nearly 1,300 feet the highest point in the Canadian Rockies.

In 2023 the Rocky Mountaineer will depart Vancouver for Banff and Lake Louise each Monday and Friday beginning on April 17, 2023 and ending October 13, 2023. rockymountaineer.com

KAT CRAATS

Highlights in OAK BAY

This charming little enclave on Vancouver Island will have clients living like a local in no time, says Charlotte Flach

Kick back at the Oak Bay Beach

Hotel: Nestled on the shores of the Pacifi c Ocean near Victoria, BC, Oak Bay Beach Hotel provides the perfect base to explore the area. A home away from home, the property features modern comforts but with the added bonus of views across the rocky bay. A focus on wellness complements the property’s natural surroundings, with sunrise yoga sessions held in the garden and dips in the seaside mineral pools guaranteed to relax the mind. Clients can also pamper themselves at the Boathouse Spa and fi nish off with a sumptuous dinner at The Snug. Wine-paired dinners are held frequently. oakbaybeachhotel.com Indulge in afternoon tea: Much like in the UK, afternoon tea is an event in Oak Bay. For a quintessentially British experience head to the White Heather Tea Room which off ers the fi nest sweet treats, or sip a steaming cup amongst colourful blooms at Abkhazi Garden. There’s also freshly baked goods at Windsor Cafe to try or head to The Oaks Restaurant and Tea Room for a real locals experience. oaksrestaurant.ca Take a tour of Salish Sea: A visit to Oak Bay isn’t complete without taking to the sparkling waters. Whether its kayaking, paddleboarding, fi shing or a boat trip to a private beach, there’s a tour to suit all water enthusiasts. Ecosphere Tours off ers a custom itinerary on a zero-emissions landing craft while Oak Bay Tours reveals the area’s history whilst looking for sea birds, seals, otters and playful sea lions. Keen angles can hook themselves halibut, salmon and maybe rockfi sh or lingcod on a fi shing trip with King Size Adventures. oakbaytours.com Head for the beach: From the craggy rocks of McNeill Bay to the sandy haven of Willows Beach, Oak Bay is blessed with accessible beaches year-round. Visitors can enjoy barefoot beach strolls, wildlife viewing, boating, fi shing and gentle paddling along the shoreline or head to Oak Bay Marina to watch the boats come and go. As the sun begins to set grab some authentic fi sh and chips wrapped up in newspaper at Willows Galley and enjoy a dinner on the beach to a soundtrack of the waves. oceanriver.com Meet the locals: Oak Bay may be small but it’s certainly not sleepy. Residents like to keep things lively with night markets, music nights, movie nights, picnics, festivals and more. Community events run throughout the year and off er the chance to share stories with the locals. In summer, visit the Oak Bay Night Markets where you’ll fi nd treasures and treats, vibe to live music at Willow’s Beach, or drop in to Oak Bay Tea Party in June, complete with fl oating tea cup challenge. In winter, Hallowe’en on the

JESSICA BURTNICK

Avenue or Christmas in Oak Bay are seasonal favourites that draw the crowds. oakbay.ca/explore-oak-bay/festivals-events Retail therapy: Shoppers on the hunt for a bargain can rely on Oak Bay’s two main shopping districts, featuring an eclectic mix of boutique shops, cafes and art galleries to browse. Head over to Oak Bay Avenue to grab a coff ee and fuel up at Ottavio or Hide & Seek, then check out its galleries and shops. For antiques and nik naks, seek out the quaint shops at Estevan Village where you will fi nd a treasure or two to bring home. oakbaytourism.com/shop Admire the art: Creativity is celebrated in Oak Bay’s art galleries and throughout the community. See paintings, sculptors and glass and jewellery art on an Arts and Culture walking tour. Look out for art installations that are part of Arts Alive, an annual public art programme where artwork is selected to be displayed at outdoor sites for a year. You can also listen out for a tune on one of fi ve outdoor painted pianos that are placed all around town as part of the public painted piano programme. ccpacanada.com Go exploring: Oak Bay is steeped in rich history, which can be seen in its Tudor-style houses and historic sites. Wander the streets and admire heritage designated homes. Nature enthusiasts can hike around Anderson Hill Park for panoramic ocean views or explore Uplands Park which has one of the greatest concentrations of rare plant species in Canada. Other ways to explore include boat tours, walking tours, bicycle rides or cruising along on the Hop-on-Hop-Off bus. sightseeingvictoria.com

Sample culinary delights:

Oak Bay’s restaurants pride themselves on using fresh, local ingredients. Vis-a-Vis on the Avenue off ers a fi ne dining concept, while The Penny Farthing Public House serves up hearty pub grub and pints of local beer. Or maximise the seafront views over seafood or sushi at Marina Restaurant. Once a month from June to September a European-style street market has local produce and hot-n-ready street food. visavisoakbay.com Expand your horizons: Oak Bay is less than 5km to the Inner Harbour in Victoria, where famous landmarks include the Legislative Buildings, the Empress Hotel and the Royal BC Museum. There’s also the chance to join whale watching tours, ride on fl oat planes, or experience the iconic pickle boats. WildPlay Element Parks, with its gravity-defying high ropes courses and ziplines, is 11km away and the famous Butchart Gardens is just 20km away for a more relaxing encounter with nature. tourismvictoria.com