BMW Owners News for August 2023

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We’re happy to answer every one, because we know that’s important to you.

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When you carry 45,000 parts, you get a million questions.

40 A RITE OF PASSAGE, PART 2

BY DUSTIN SILVEY #224778

GENUINE MAGIC IN THE SMOKY MOUNTAIN MAGIC TOUR

BY JAMES BELLERJEAU #228297

IN THIS ISSUE

4 | HEADLIGHT What a Rally! by Bill Wiegand

8 | FROM THE BOARD Looking Forward by Brian Dutcher

10 | POSTCARDS FROM THE ROAD

12 | RIDER TO RIDER Letters from our Members

14 | NEWS Get your M on at M’Fest, BMW Motorrad offers a preview of the BMW M 1000 XR prototype, BDR releases Steens Mountain and Alvord Desert Oregon BDR-X, MOA members have saved more than $6,000 with the BMW Parts Rebate, Beat rising MOA Membership Costs with Auto Renewal, BMW Motorrad celebrates one millionth GS with boxer engine, Training, Touring and Getaways.

22 | GEAR The Aerostich Transit 3, One Year Later by Mark Barnes

26 | GEAR Favorite Knives

28 | GEAR Bohn Mesh Armored Shirt by Steven Jacob

30 | GEAR Mosko Moto Reckless 40L Storage System, Part Two and Nomini Tank Bag by Ron Davis

32 | GEAR Rukka Phase Change Shirts by Mark Barnes

36 | GEAR Dis Big Pella Walkabout by Greg Sample

38 | TORQUE OF THE MATTER GPS Positioning and Why Your Bike Might be Smoking by Wes Fleming

58 | SKILLS Bonding through Dirt by Sara Uhlenbrock-Heath

60 | SKILLS A Family that Rides Together, Stays Together by Jason Weilnau

64 | ROAD TALES Howling at the Wind by Dave Cwi

66 | THE RIDE INSIDE 10,000 Curves by Mark Barnes

70 | Welcome our Newest MOA Members

74 | WHEN AND WHERE Rally listings

79 | ADVERTISING INDEX

80 | TAILIGHT

ON THE COVER Phil Stalboerger (#196597) found this mural in downtown Dayton, Ohio, while on his way to Doswell, Virginia, for the MOA’s 50th National Rally.

Morocco, December, 21st – 29th 2023.

This is just a glimpse of how wonderful your Xmas holiday could be. Join us in a beautiful motorcycle tours through the High Atlas, up to the ancient Kasbahs of Ait-Ben Haddou and Ouarzate, riding the Ocean roads until we reach the “end of the world”, where we will spend Christmas!

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“Pass here and go on, you’re on the road to heaven.”

Jack Kerouac, “On the Road”

WHAT A RALLY!

As dedicated volunteers and staff arrived in Virginia to begin setting up in the days before the gates opened for our 50th National Rally, northerly winds pushed smoke from the out-of-control wildfires burning in Canada. With the pollution blanketing much of the midwestern and eastern United States, news reports from major cities to the north showed visibilities of less than a mile and warned listeners of the hazards of prolonged exposure to the dirty air. At the rally site, an eerie haze colored the distant horizon in a reddish hue and with it, a bit of apprehension regarding the event scheduled to take place there later that week. Thankfully, as the week continued, the winds slowly shifted, and by the opening day of the Rally, the once foul and ominous atmosphere was replaced by a beautiful clear blue sky.

If you were one of the nearly 6,000 attendees at this year’s National Rally, you know what a great event you were part of. If you weren’t able to make it to Doswell, Virginia, in June, well, I believe you missed one of the best MOA National Rallies of all time.

The sprawling Meadow Event Park offered rally-goers a superb venue with plenty of space, whether pitching a tent, parking an RV or riding in each day. Each day of the Rally, the vendors, seminars, BMW Demo Truck, food trucks, ADV Thrill Pit, Brewfest and distillery tours kept everyone busy as did the wonderful roads of Virginia. Then, each evening special events like movie and trivia nights and a stellar entertainment lineup kept everybody rocking while Grand Prizes including a motorcycle were given away.

I may be a bit biased in my view of the 2023 Rally, but on the 2023 Rally app’s Message Wall, rally-goers confirmed my thoughts as they offered their own opinions on the event.

Michael Callender posted, “First-timer here, what a great, great experience and time I had this past weekend. Contemplating the cross-country to Redmond next year.”

Stephanie Johnson-Nichols wrote, “I must say, I’ve been to the BMW Rallies many times before, however this was freaking Awesome!! Weather was perfect, the events were interesting,

good entertainment, venues and friendly, helpful vendors. I met new people and saw old friends. It was a fantastic time. Thanks MOA and BMW for such a wonderful event! Planning to attend Redmond, Oregon, for a cross country trip.”

George Kehas continued with the kudos saying, “This was my first BMW rally. Really enjoyed meeting and chatting with new-found friends. Couldn’t ask for a better weather or venue, and the multitude of events was amazing. This coincided with a return to the Blue Ridge Parkway to finish an interrupted trip last year, and Redmond may well coincide with a long-planned bucket list cross-country trip. Thanks to the organizing committees and all the volunteers–you guys and gals did a truly outstanding job.”

Martin Haerter offered similar sentiments with, “Great job MOA, Wes and Paula, volunteers, vendors and fellow riders! This was a great rally. Thank you for making my son’s first rally memorable–he is hooked and is looking forward to riding to Redmond from Connecticut. PS: the ADV track and mud pit were a blast!”

There are many, many more messages offering similar sentiments and to further celebrate our 50th National Rally, a commemorative Rally book is now in the works with information regarding how to get one for yourself coming out in the weeks ahead.

2023 Rally Chairs Wes and Paula Fitzer the have set the Rally bar high, and Sam Garst and Reece Mullins, Chairs of the 2024 MOA National Rally, have promised to make their party next June in Redmond, Oregon, the “Best Rally Ever!” They know they’ve got their work cut out for them but I’m confident they are up for the job. If Redmond is on your radar next June, discounted pricing for the 2024 Rally is available now by visiting bmwmoaf.regfox.com/24 rally.

During a week that began with the woes typical of a Monday, the week of the MOA’s 50th National Rally ended with fireworks and smiles all around. I look forward to seeing you in Redmond next summer.

Color Coordinated

Terence Hamill (#14629) found this beautiful spot to pitch his tent while heading home from the 50th National Rally in Richmond, Virginia.

LOOKING FORWARD

I write this month’s column as we return home after our MOA staff along with an army of volunteers executed an awesome 50th National Rally and celebration of 100 years of BMW Motorrad. Please give a big hand to all those who volunteered to pull off another excellent event.

As is customary, the MOA Board of Directors seated its newly-elected members and elected officers at our National Rally. I’d like to sincerely thank Reece Mullins for his leadership and dedication over the past seven years as secretary, vice president and president. Also, thanks goes to Kelly Kurtz for serving as our treasurer and Jon Kurtz for serving as a director. I would also like to welcome our newly seated directors, Chad Garcia and Mike Pelletier, along with Jean Excell, who was appointed to a one-year term to fulfill the remainder of the term and vacancy left after Kelly requested to step down.

Your newly elected BMW MOA Board officers include myself as president, Adam Chandler as vice president, Phil Stalboerger as treasurer and Chad Garcia as secretary. Please congratulate all of our directors for stepping forward and volunteering their time for the betterment of our organization.

Reflecting upon our 50th National Rally and 51st year in operation, it is amazing how much has changed over the years. As technology continues to deliver new performance highs to our motos and riding demographics continue to evolve, one aspect has remained unchanged: we continue to be a strong group of like-minded riding enthusiasts who are passionate about our bikes, the camaraderie of fellow riders, and traveling on two wheels. I’m confident this will continue to be our foundational bedrock over the next 50 years while riding technology and culture continue to evolve.

A minuscule first step in our journey of the next 50 years will be this column in BMW Owners News. It will transition from the “President’s Column” to our “Executive Committee Column,” where each of the four officers will be able to communicate to the membership the ongoing status, challenges and successes of the programs we oversee. I believe this will allow us to improve communication between the Board of Directors and our membership. Please take the time to read each of their columns and provide questions and feedback, as this is our best indicator of the pulse and health of our membership. We want to know what’s on your mind and how we can improve, so don’t hold back.

Lastly, I was honored to be reelected by our members to my second term and thoroughly humbled to be elected by my fellow directors to be your president. I am excited (and a little nervous) to lead the finest motorcycle enthusiast organization into its next 50 years.

Just like the unknowns of a new road or a long journey, I guarantee there will be a few rough spots and surprises we’ll have to navigate, but the passion and determination this organization exudes will be the driving force for our continued success.

You can always make more money, but you can’t make more time. Get out and ride today.

Each month we publish the great images sent to us by BMW MOA members from their travels around the globe. Send us your best images and you could have your work published in our Postcards from the Road pages. Email your high resolution images, image description and contact information to editor@ bmwmoa.org.

Right, The week after the National Rally offered central Maryland beautiful weather without rain or smoke. Photo by Harry Solomon #180081.

Middle Right, A pair of grizzlies we encountered delayed our journey about 70 miles south of Prudhoe Bay. Shared by Daryll Henrich #165233.

Below Left, Somewhere in the Pennsylvania wilds along the Cross Pennsylvania Adventure Trail. Photo by Mike Grantham #232337.

Below Right, A stop while riding back roads from the Rally site to the coastal village of Urbanna, Virginia. Photo by Peter Krenn #56239.

Left, Riding the Col de la Bonette in France aboard my 2013 F 800 GT. Photo by Mike LoGalbo #155063.

Above, A shot from Montana's Highway 191 about 15 miles south of the Canadian border. Nothing and nobody as far as you can see. Photo by Terry South #135579.

Below, A stop along my commute from Carson City, Nevada, to Fremont, California, south of Lake Tahoe. Photo by Brian Wester #232833.

A Great Rally, but...

Congrats to Wes and Paula Fitzer for a great rally. I’ve ridden to several Nationals since joining the MOA in 1991, including a couple on the west coast. This one was meaningful to me as a ride base, and just 265 miles from home, a day ride.

In 1980, my grandmother, who lived in Richmond, passed. I had just gotten a job in TV news, the career I wanted, and was anxious about being a new employee and immediately asking for time off for her funeral four hours away. I stayed home and have always regretted it. This year, after enjoying Thursday night at the rally, I rode into Richmond, found her grave, and paid my overdue respects. Thank you for that opportunity. Afterward, lunch at Station 2 was great.

Saturday, I had planned a ride to Yorktown, and I-64 turned out to be a first gear sweat fest almost the whole way. But it was worth it to see the visitor center and Surrender Field, where Cornwallis surrendered to Washington and our nation was born. Wow. I had created a backroads return route to the rally, avoided the 64 weekend traffic, and enjoyed corn fields, quaint farm houses and fresh air.

There were excellent food vendors at the rally, especially the German food truck! Pork schnitzel, Lord have mercy!

My only criticisms: paper and portajohns. There has been a slow increase in paper promotions (ads for stuff I don’t want) to the point where now, at the National, we are handed a sack of paper. Tent life has no room for all this stuff. Between the overwhelming paper ads and poor light, I lost my one prize ticket somehow, before I filled it out. Secondly, for future planning, every tent camping area should have at least ONE porta-john. I was in the grassy area near the MEP office and boondock RV. I have never been to a rally with no john within walking distance. It was 250 paces from

my tent to the head (yes, I had nothing else to do so I counted). As soon as it was dark, people were urinating in the grass. (Do you think old guys desperately unzipping their tents at 3 a.m. and barely holding it are going to walk a quarter mile?) May I remind you; this is a basic human need.

All the best, Arch Embler #54122 Denton, North Carolina

Kudos

I finished reading “A Rite of Passage, Part 1” (June 2023 BMW Owners News) by Dustin Silvey. After reading, I watched the YouTube videos that were suggested. What a great enjoyment in both the read and videos. It is great to see such cohesion between a riding couple. The support shown toward each other on such a commanding ride show the joy in life of doing something together you both obviously enjoy and do quite safely.

Kudos to both. Stay safe. Waiting for Part II.

Chuck Ronson #185008 London, Ontario

The Horn Works!

I’ve owned quite a few BMW bikes over the past 20, plus years of riding, and I’ve always thought one day I’d get that RT. Well, I traded my 2015 GS for a 2007 RT–well cared for and farkled exactly as I would have done with an upgraded seat, windscreen, bar backs and auxiliary lights. I’ve never really been a fan of the E-Wire throttle, and I can’t really imagine leaving my fob in my other jacket 30 miles away after a stop. After 1,000 miles on the bike, I really love it, no regrets.

But that’s not the story. Here in Massachusetts, we are required to get a yearly inspection sticker at the beginning of the riding season, so I did.

Pulling up, the technician asked for my registration and told me to stay on the bike, saying we’ll do this outside. OK. Bright lights, Right turn signal, left turn signal, horn–whoops. I forgot to mention the upgraded horn! Holy S#&t as his clipboard went flying.

“Well, you pass,” he said.

As we all know BMW’s OEM horns sound like Leo Kottke’s famous line, “A Goose Fart on a Foggy Day!” I thought you folks would appreciate a little humor.

Craig Schumacher #105460 Belchertown, Massachusetts

Thank You Gridlock Motors

At the behest of some Canadian compadres, I would like to tell about my little experience at the 50th BMW MOA Rally.

I recently purchased an ‘03 R 1150 GS, and since I just bought it, I had to attend to a few things, such as the clutch slave cylinder, rear brake line and rotor. Then I did the fluids, spline and tune up. Waiting for the steel braided brake line was key to me taking the BMW or not to the Rally. I received and installed them—the fronts, well, what are the chances they would go too? So long story short, I arrived in Richmond on Friday and while riding around looking for a place to pitch a tent, sure enough my front brake lines went.

One of my friends went on the magic phone and after two calls with no luck, we finally located a small BMW tech. I knew immediately after talking to him on the phone I had the right person: George Mangicaro of Gridlock Motors in nearby Warrenton, Virginia.

Twenty minutes after calling him he got back to me with an attached photo of a steel braided line. He advised against making the 60-mile trek on a Friday afternoon because of the traffic and told me on Saturday it would be much easier to get there. Saturday it was.

Upon arrival, George told me he would install the lines and because they were used braided steel lines, they were free. Hey, what choice did I have? He then offered me a loaner bike. I didn’t feel the need to borrow a bike, just a walk around the corner to get some coffee would be fine. Very nice on George’s part though.

After repairs were completed, George wanted to take a little test ride and check for leaks. Unfortunately, the bike wouldn’t start. I did have a starting issue when I first got the bike, but I thought it was just a loose battery connection, and I did not have any problems with it for over a month or two. Well as it turns out, I was wrong and the starter was going.

But, could I ask for a better place for the starter to take a dump? George then got on his computer and located one. He then installed the starter and there was no labor cost, just $25 for the used starter. Again, what choice did I have?

So, my guardian angel was looking out for me, and I sure appreciate that. I don’t know who my guardian angel may be, but that weekend he looked a lot like George Mangicaro of Gridlock Motors in Warrenton, Virginia.

Mark Pitsing #66276

Gardiner, New York

Anonymous Book for the Win!

My wife was recently trailering my R 1250 RT and her Indian Scout cross-country from Southern California to the Laconia Rally in New Hampshire. While stopped at a store in Lakewood, Colorado, she noticed my RT was sitting a little crooked. The freeway coming down the Rockies was a little bumpy and the back tire had apparently slipped around on the trailer so now my bike was now listing to starboard.

I grabbed my BMW Owners Anonymous book and made a phone call. An MOA member grabbed a friend and within an hour they got my bike squared away. In keeping with the spirit of the “Anonymous” book I’ll keep his name on the down-low, but I’m hoping he reads this and knows how thankful we are for the help.

Thanks to the fellow from Lakewood and to the MOA for this awesome resource!

George Turner #229858

Palmdale, California

Mark Barnes-Indoor Touring

Mark, I’ve got two words for you: “You are spot on!”

OK, so I can’t count, but the point you made in your “Indoor Touring” article is what many of us have been thinking since BMW moved to franchises in multi-brand dealerships.

For the money this brand charges, the sales staff should be knowledgeable, and you shouldn’t have to walk around behind the parts counter to show the parts people how to locate a bottle of clutch oil, much less have to explain to them what it is and wait for them to order it.

I guess maybe it’s incumbent upon us to engage the management at these ATV dealerships to stock common BMW parts and point out the benefits of hosting weekend get togethers, seminars and rider training.

Otherwise, I guess I’ll just keep buying off the Internet!

Ken Hall #169423 Prescott, Arizona

Great Service

I want to express my appreciation to Patrick Crawley of Morton’s BMW for an

WE WANT TO HEAR FROM YOU!

excellent experience at their National Rally booth.

I first spoke with the Schuberth technician they thoughtfully brought with them about water passing through my helmet’s top seal. He figured out I had a defective visor that had expanded slightly and opened a gap there. While I couldn’t get a warrantied replacement on the spot for my ride home (rain expected), Patrick sold me a new properly fitting visor at a greatly discounted price, making the purchase much less painful and ensuring I had safe vision from that point forward.

I was very glad to get this problem diagnosed and remedied in time for my return trip!

Mark Barnes #222400 Knoxville, Tennessee

Tire Claim Thanks!

Shout out to Wes Fleming for his “Torque of The Matter” column in the December 2022 issue of BMW Owners News

I saved the article–though it may have jinxed me–and I experienced my first ever flat a few weeks ago when the almost new rear tire of my 2022 K 1600 GT picked up a roofing nail somewhere along the byways along the central coast of California.

The MOA Platinum Roadside Assistance and Tire Hazard Protection Plan gives me peace of mind. Once I discovered the nail, I followed Wes’ advice and took it to the BMW service folks at Santa Maria Harley-Davidson where the service rep followed Wes’ instructions, and the claim was successful for $250 and covered over half of the total cost of replacement and service.

Each month, the Rider to Rider pages of BMW Owners News detail the successes, failures, wishes and frustrations we all face as riders, BMW motorcycle owners, customers and individuals. As a BMW MOA member, these are your pages and we want to know what’s on your mind.

Got something to get off your chest? Tell us about it. Know a business that deserves to be recognized? Tell us about it. Got a riding or tech tip that we could all benefit from? Tell us about it. Got a suggestion for BMW Motorrad? You know the drill–Tell us about it! There’s only one rule and that’s to stick to the subject that brings us all here–motorcycling, so save political rants for Facebook!

Send your thoughts to editor@bmwmoa.org and lets all work to build a better community.

Mark Lisa #164912 Paso Robles, California

Get Your M on at M'Fest

The MOA is heading back to Lebanon, Tennessee, and the Wilson County Fairgrounds for M’Fest. You can join the fun on September 8, 9 and 10, 2023. Tent and RV camping will be available onsite for a small fee, and several hotels are located close to the fairgrounds. Spectators are admitted free to M’Fest each day.

MOA members will have several exciting training opportunities at M’Fest provided by the BMW Performance Center’s US Rider Academy. Instructors from the Performance Center will be conducting the popular Authority Skills Training for MOA members. Both morning and afternoon sessions will be available. Information on sessions and registration is available at mfest.bmwmoa.org.

As of press time, an option for off-road training is being developed for M’Fest. Find out more at mfest.bmwmoa.org.

BMW Motorrad offers a preview of the BMW M 1000 XR Prototype

BMW Motorrad is proud to unveil the M 1000 XR prototype, offering a glimpse of the newest model in the M lineup.

“With the M 1000 XR prototype, we are providing a first preview of the third BMW Motorrad M model in our anniversary year. We have developed the M 1000 XR, based on the current S 1000 XR, S 1000 RR and M 1000 RR as a long-distance sportbike with supersports riding dynamics for the road as well as for the track,” said BMW Product Manager Dominik Blass.

The letter M has been synonymous with racing success worldwide for over 50 years, as well as with high-performance BMW road models aimed at customers with high expectations for performance, exclusivity and individuality. BMW Motorrad applied this successful M strategy to motorcycles in 2019 when it began to offer M special equipment and M Performance Parts for existing models. The M 1000 RR and the M 1000 R, the first two independent M models from BMW Motorrad, were introduced in 2020 and 2022 respectively.

The M 1000 XR prototype helps mark not only 100 Years of BMW Motorrad, but also almost 100 years of BMW two-wheeled motorsport competition. The XR prototype offers a preview of a supersports motorcycle that excels in all riding disciplines: winding roads, long-distance touring and track use with equal ability and with a level of performance previously unseen in this segment.

The four-cylinder engine from the BMW S 1000 RR with BMW ShiftCam technology for varying the timing and valve lift is used as the basis for the new XR. With an engine output of more than 200 hp, a fueled weight of only 492 lbs., and chassis technology, aerodynamics and control electronics designed equally for high-performance road use, long-distance touring and fast track lapping, the new M 1000 XR opens up dynamic riding opportunities as a crossover bike in the sports motorcycle segment previously reserved for purebred superbikes. Further weight reduction and increased riding dynamics can be achieved with the available M Competition Package. The top speed of the M 1000 XR prototype is around 174 mph.

In addition to drivetrain and suspension technology, aerodynamics were also a key focus when developing the M 1000 XR prototype. The new M 1000 XR received winglets with the goal of ensuring superior riding stability at higher speeds despite increased engine power. The winglets serve in helping achieve the best possible contact between the tires and the road surface–especially during acceleration. The additional load on the front wheel counteracts the natural tendency to wheelie during acceleration, meaning the traction control system has to intrude less, and more drive power is converted into forward momentum. The forward-leaning seating position ensures better bike control, especially in supersport mode.

Like the M 1000 RR and the M 1000 R, the new M 1000 XR features M brakes. These brakes were developed using experience gained with racing brakes on BMW Motorrad factory racing machines in the Superbike World Championship. The M brake calipers feature a blue anodized coating in conjunction with the famous M logo.

BMW Motorrad will publish further information on the new BMW M 1000 XR in the second half of 2023.

BDR Releases Steens Mountain and Alvord Desert Oregon BDR-X

The adventure motorcycling non-profit, Backcountry Discovery Routes, has released its newest route, the Steens Mountain and Alvord Desert, Oregon, BDR-X. The Steens Mountain and Alvord Desert BDR-X is the organization’s fifteenth route and fourth in the BDR-X series of shorter BDR-style loops. Free GPS tracks, travel resources, and a downloadable/printable map will be available at RideBDR.com/AlvordDesert.

Designed to showcase the striking 5,000-foot elevation transition from the Steens Mountain to the Alvord Desert, this remote BDR-X starts and ends in Fields, Oregon (near section 1 of the Oregon BDR). The 246-mile loop can be accomplished in two days and offers a diverse mix of surface terrain, including gravel roads, rocky double-track, overgrown dirt roads, and open desert playa, making this BDR-X truly unique. This two-day loop is accessible after the snow melts and the roads open in June.

“We created this BDR-X because Steens Mountain has to be seen to be believed. Far different than the Cascades or Rockies, this remote mountain has deep glacier-carved gorges and views down to the vast Alvord Desert that riders get to experience on the second day. It’s an awe-inspiring loop that riders will never forget,” said Bryce Stevens, BDR Co-Founder and Route Architect.

MOA Members have saved more than $6,000 with the BMW Parts Rebate

Since becoming effective on May 1, 2023, BMW MOA members have been approved for more than $6,000 in rebate claims for purchases of BMW parts, gear and accessories. Through a special arrangement with the MOA, every purchase of original BMW apparel, accessories, parts, classic parts, service parts and replacement OEM parts can qualify for a 10% rebate. If it has a BMW part number, MOA members can earn a 10% rebate!

Purchases must be made by MOA members at a BMW Motorrad dealer based in the United States or online at shopbmwmotorcycles.com. Claims for qualifying purchases can be submitted at bmwmoa.org/partsrebate and will be processed within 60 days for payment to the MOA member. Purchasers must be a member at the time of purchase and payment of the rebate to qualify!

Beat Rising MOA Membership Costs with Auto Renewal

BMW MOA members who choose the auto renew feature can keep their membership dues stable. Simply choose the “Annual Auto Renew” option during your renewal period, and the current $49 Primary and $39 Digital membership rates will remain in effect through your membership period. Traditional yearly membership rates without the auto renew feature will increase to $59 for Primary members and $49 for Digital members beginning August 1, 2023.

Roadside rates are also increasing slightly depending upon the level of service. The average roadside contract will increase $9 annually beginning August 1. Roadside plans are also available with an auto renewal feature to help keep membership costs low.

Current memberships will not be affected until their renewal period. If members need assistance determining the best membership plan, the MOA Membership Team is available to provide guidance or assist with membership choices. Call the Membership Team at (864) 438-0962 or contact via email at membership@bmwmoa.org.

BMW Motorrad celebrates One Millionth GS with Boxer Engine

On June 21, 2023, the 1,000,000th GS equipped with a boxer engine rolled off the production line at the BMW Motorrad plant in Berlin-Spandau–a BMW R 1250 GS. BMW motorcycles have been manufactured in Berlin since 1969, and the BMW Motorrad GS models with boxer engines since 1980. The GS models have been revered for their incomparable all-round qualities and spurred countless riders to take trips to distant countries, epic adventure journeys and expeditions to the remotest regions of our planet over the past decades. The latest edition of the now legendary BMW GS with boxer engine–the R 1300 GS–will be presented on September 28, 2023, at the grand opening of the new BMW Motorrad Welt

in Berlin.

Dr. Markus Schramm, Head of BMW Motorrad: “With the R 80 G/S and its unique combination of on-road and off-road suitability, everyday qualities and long-distance touring abilities, BMW Motorrad created the new motorcycle genre of touring enduros in 1980.

The BMW GS with boxer engine became an icon, which achieved global success in this segment. What is more: The BMW GS became a legend and at the same time an indispensable cornerstone in the BMW Motorrad model range. Its outstanding abilities, such as dynamic riding performance, brawny off-road qualities, superior long-distance comfort and enormous robustness, have since

been continuously developed by BMW Motorrad and transferred to other BMW Motorrad model series with great success. I am therefore very pleased that today, and especially in our “100 Years of BMW Motorrad” anniversary year, we are able to contribute a major milestone to the corporate history of the BMW Group with the one millionth BMW GS motorbike with a boxer engine. I am equally pleased that the unique history of BMW Motorrad models with boxer engines will soon be supplemented by an exciting chapter with numerous innovations with the new R 1300 GS.”

The one millionth BMW GS with a boxer engine is an R 1250 GS in Triple Black Style and was celebrated during a

works meeting at the BMW Motorrad plant in Berlin-Spandau.

Coming Soon:

The new BMW R 1300 GS

The celebrations marking the 100th anniversary of BMW Motorrad continue. After the big party at BMW Motorrad Days, where thousands of motorcycle fans arrived from all over the world between July 7th and 9th, BMW Motorrad Welt will officially open its doors on September 28th.

In the new “heart of the brand”–located directly next to the BMW Motorrad plant site in Berlin-Spandau–the eagerly awaited new BMW R 1300 GS will be presented at an exclusive opening event. Interested fans will have the opportunity to follow the opening ceremony via livestream on the BMW Group and BMW Motorrad social media channels. Beginning September 30, BMW Motorrad Welt in Berlin will be open to all visitors.

Relax.

Relax knowing your bike is safe and secure.

Ride the challenging byways of Eureka Springs.

Refuel with a delicious meal at Myrtie Mae’s Cafe.

of

the Ozarks 207

Chair

Hand

from oak wood, aluminium, and Cordura fabric.

TRAINING, TOURING AND GETAWAYS!

The MOA Has It All This Fall!

We've got some great events for MOA members this fall. Whether you want to train, tour or explore new areas, there's a little something for everyone. If you're interested in one of these events, don't wait to register. Space is limited and these events will fill to capacity quickly!

MOA GETAWAY AT VALLEY FORGE

Aug. 4-6 • Valley Forge, Pennsylvania

For a quick weekend escape, we've added Valley Forge to our list of MOA Getaways for August 4-6, 2023. Come experience the epicenter of history in the United States just outside several major metro areas. The ride to Valley Forge is easy, the roads wind forever and the people are friendly. Good times are just around the corner.

WAILIN' WAYNE WEEKEND

The grandaddy of all events has to be Wailin' Wayne Weekend, September 6 - 10, 2023. We have a little something for everyone in the Hocking Hills region of Ohio. WWW features the best ORV area in the Wayne National Forest along with Ohio's Windy 9 for the on-road enthusiast. Whether you tent camp, prefer RVs, or like the comfort of hotels, there are tons of options in Ohio.

Sept. 6-10 • Nelsonville, Ohio

GETAWAYS!TOURING

CRUISIN' CUSTER RALLY

THRILLS IN THE HILLS

Sept. 28-Oct. 1 • Kerrville, Texas

Sept. 14 - 17 • Challis, Idaho

Join us September 14 - 17, 2023 as we partner with Klim to bring you the best motorcycle rally in Idaho, one which combines challenging off-road routes and scenic on-road rides. One of Cruisin' Custer's guided rides will take you to the moon - Craters of the Moon National Park, that is! Add in some off-road adventures and ride the trails around the old mining ghost town of Bayhorse. Each day's ride will be approximately six hours with stops for lunch and sightseeing.

MOA PREMIER TRAINING

Sept. 29, Oct. 27, Nov. 17 • Greer, South Carolina

There may be no better riding in Texas than in Hill Country, and the YO Ranch Hotel will be our base of operations—including for the first time a limited number of RV and camping sites in Schreiner Park. Ride all day Friday and Saturday, or head over to Fredericksburg for shopping, food and museums; no matter where you go, the Three Sisters and miles of fantastic riding beckon you! If you’re motivated, head out with us for some world-class off-road rider training whether you’re a new or experienced rider. Don’t forget our fantastic barbeque dinner Saturday night, complete with live local music and more at the historic Arcadia Theater in downtown Kerrville.

SMOKY MOUNTAIN MAGIC TOUR

We have Premier Training dates at the BMW Performance Center in Greer, South Carolina, on September 29, October 27 and November 17. This all-inclusive training day is an opportunity to receive a half day of on-road and half day of off-road training from the best trainers in the business. Registration includes a full day of riding instruction on BMW motorcycles, two nights at the Greenville Marriott, all meals, transportation to the various events and a guaranteed rebate from the BMW MOA Foundation. A few spots in the fall are still open.

Oct. 9-13 • Fontana Dam, North

Carolina

The inaugural Smoky Mountain Tour in May was wildly popular and we've got a fall date, October 9-13, 2023. Based out of the Fontana Village Lodge in Fontana Dam, North Carolina, a small group of riders and passengers will spend three days exploring the best twisty roads in North Carolina. Another all-inclusive event, if you get yourself to North Carolina, we'll do the rest.

The Aerostich Transit 3–One Year Later

Last year I introduced Aerostich’s remarkable Transit 3 suit, with its unique waterproof leather construction. Interesting details of the suit’s design are too numerous to recount here; see the July ‘22 issue of Owner’s News or my 7/5/22 post on bmwownersnews.com for the full inventory. When I wrote those articles, I’d just begun wearing the Transit 3 and could only relay my first impressions, which included appreciation for the suit’s comfort, admiration of its craftsmanship, and hopeful excitement about its day-to-day functionality. If you only read what follows here, you’ll have a skewed perspective because I’m just going to comment on a few aspects that weren’t immediately apparent or verifiable. Overall, the Transit 3 has lived up to or exceeded the high expectations generated by my initial examination.

I’ve now lived with this artfully crafted garment through all four seasons in widely varying weather conditions, although my sampled range is characteristic of the southeastern US and hasn’t included the colder or more arid environs elsewhere. Another caveat has to do with fitment. Whereas I found the suit in my usual size far too loose for my taste in leather kit, I now recognize the roominess I eschewed for a snugger feel (I dropped down a size) would have allowed more comfort across a broader span of temperatures. I don’t regret this sacrifice because I still prefer a closer fit for the majority of my (virtually year-round) riding season, but those wishing to extend the temp-related parameters described below can probably do so by opting for their usual size instead of going smaller (I strongly recommend talking with Aerostich staff to confirm sizing). The climatic comfort limitations I experienced had more to do with my fitment choice than inadequacies in the suit’s design or construction. Also

potentially of note, most of my riding in the Transit 3 was on a minimally faired bike, an R 1250 RS with the windscreen in its lowest position. More or less wind exposure may impact temp considerations, too. Last in this list of disclosures, I’m not a high-mileage guy, and I rotate through lots of different riding gear, so

of moderate rain without water penetrating (or saturating) the latex-infused, one-way membrane-backed leather. The material does absorb a bit of moisture superficially, but this bears no resemblance to the way regular leather soaks up water and becomes a heavy, sodden mess. I valued the Mandarin collar’s close-fitting (yet soft and pliable) contour, which did a nice job of sealing out rain without feeling tight.

Another noteworthy feature of the Corium+ is its apparent durability. I haven’t crashed in my Transit 3, but I’ve been impressed by its resistance to any visible scuffing from casual contact with abrasive surfaces, such as sitting/ leaning on rough curbs and pavement. Nor does it show any signs of wear and tear from getting wet or being exposed to UV radiation, despite the fact I have yet to clean or condition the leather beyond using a damp cloth to wipe off splattered bugs. This suit has remained luxuriously smooth and supple and has offered a very comfortable–and comforting–counterpoint to my closetful of nylon-based textile gear. Leather’s additional weight and mildly stiffer texture provide the Transit 3 wearer with a reassuringly sturdier, more secure feel (especially with snug fitment) than what one gets from typical synthetics. If it’s been a while since you donned cowhide instead of Cordura, you may have forgotten the ways leather feels better.

my Transit 3 has only covered a few thousand miles so far.

The first question to answer must be, “Is the Corium+ leather really waterproof?” The answer is, “Yes!” Although I haven’t ridden through a day-long deluge in the Transit 3, I have endured lengthy periods

One drawback of leather, however, is its reluctance to fold at the sleeve cuffs. There, its bulk and stiffness (along with that of the waterproof zipper and its gusset) can create an awkward interface with some glove gauntlets, an issue that has persisted despite my use of Aerostich’s recommendation to facilitate break-in by leaving the cuffs in a clamp or vice for a while with a crease in the desired location (which reduces but doesn’t eliminate this quirk). Cinching down the cuffs to accommodate slim gauntlets on

the outside can create an unwelcome lumpy impingement at the wrist. Conversely, the cuffs are restrictive enough, even with their gussets unzipped, to resist the insertion of longer or thicker gauntlets inside the sleeve. Gloves with abbreviated or expandable gauntlets work just fine.

A second downside, related partly to the Corium+ and partly to the Transit 3’s design, is limited ventilation for hot weather riding. As mentioned in my initial review, the visible perforations in the leather are for water vapor egress after it has passed through the one-way membrane laminated to the leather’s interior. Those holes do not admit airflow into the suit’s interior, as that same membrane is windproof (an asset in cold weather). Note that all gear with this type of membrane suffers from the same trade-off: the microscopic holes that allow water vapor to exit while blocking liquid water’s entrance also preclude cooling airflow. The only way to compensate for this is with waterproof zipperequipped vents. The Transit 3 has such vents under each arm and along the upper back (beneath a reflective flap that folds out of the way). The gusseted cuffs can also be left unzipped to funnel some breeze into the sleeves, as long as airflow there isn’t blocked by your gloves.

I found ventilation adequate into the upper-80s, but wanted more once the temperature exceeded 90 degrees–especially in the dreadfully high humidity of a southeastern summer. I tried my usual solution of wearing LD Comfort’s excellent evaporative cooling shirt under the Transit 3 jacket, but achieved little relief (although a wet neck wrap, like one of Aerostich’s silk scarves, helped considerably). My decision to opt for a snug-fitting suit had the unintended consequence of leaving too little room for airflow through the jacket’s interior, given the presence of only three smallish vents. Likewise, I can’t wear thick insulation under my Transit 3 on very cold rides. A couple layers of Merino wool or high-tech synthetic long underwear, along with a warming neck wrap (those silk scarves serve this purpose, too) allowed comfortable riding down to 50 degrees. Adding any more under the suit felt too tight/restrictive. I’m content with the resulting 40-degree range, as I have other gear to wear below 50 and above 90, but those who want extended versatility should choose a looser fitting Transit 3.

One final caution: Although Aerostich is famously generous with cargo capacity, the Transit 3 does not feature the brand’s usual multitude of voluminous pockets. What pockets exist are relatively small

Above Left to Right, Aerostich Transit 3 Collar, Transit 3 cuff cinched and open. Right, Transit 3 Rear Vent flap open. Bottom Right, Transit 3 Underarm Vent

and/or tight. This hasn’t provoked any complaints from me, as I don’t load up my riding suits with lots of stuff and prefer to keep bulky items like my phone, wallet and snack bars in my tankbag. However, when leaving the bike (e.g., to enter a store or restaurant), I carry my valuables with me. The suit’s handwarmer jacket pockets can hold my wallet on one side and my phone on the other while I’m upright, but most stored items press against my torso in the riding position (also true if I use the interior lining pockets). The high exterior chest pocket is tough to access, but the right forearm pocket is handy for earplugs and loose cash/cards. Further down, the pants pockets, while deep, are tight across their horizontal zippered openings, resisting ingress. There are no pass-through zippers (as found on Aerostich’s Roadcrafter models) for accessing pockets in pants worn underneath the suit, nor are there any hip or thigh pockets. Perhaps slash openings would work better. I might attribute these pockets’ tightness to my choice of a tailored fit, except for the fact anything larger would have been prohibitively loose at the waist; even the size I have bunches up a tad there under my belt. Your proportions, and associated experience of these pockets, may vary.

long list of well-engineered features and superlative workmanship. (How many riders own Hi-Viz, waterproof leather?! It really is quite special.) Like most costs over the past year, admission to the elite Transit 3 club has increased, currently $1,187 for the jacket and $1,067 for the pants, with the total discounted $100 if both are purchased together. Top-shelf gear doesn’t come cheap. Again, make sure to read one of those introductory articles to understand the justifications for such pricing.

Most sizes of the Transit 3 are on hand at Aerostich, but due to supply chain complexity (they’re made in Asia with sub-components from many countries) backordered sizes can take months to restock. All the more reason for interested riders to check availability sooner rather than later.

www.eagleriderpittsburgh.com

If you don’t require extensive storage and ventilation, and you have gloves with gauntlets that play well with the Transit 3’s sleeve cuffs, you’ll enjoy all-day comfort and a great sense of safety in this one-of-a-kind outfit. If you’re okay with having your cowhide fit loosely (instead of conjuring fond memories of your old road racing leathers), you’ll also be able to ride in truly cold and seriously hot weather, with no worries about encountering rain. And if you opt for the Hi-Viz yellow jacket (rather than its black counterpart), you’ll get additional conspicuity with the rest of this gear’s

For additional information, visit aerostich.com.

Aerostich Transit 3 pants pocket.

Favorite Knives

If you only have one tool to take with you on your bike, it should probably be a simple pocket knife. Referred to by some as "folders," a basic knife has plenty of uses, enough that many of us consider the pocket knife part of our

Some

Benchmade Barrage

MSRP: $220 benchmade.com

Overall Length 8.45"

Blade Length: 3.6"

"I carry two Benchmade knives—the Barrage is my all-time favorite knife so far."

– Christopher Lopez

Benchmade Bugout®

MSRP: $180

benchmade.com

Overall Length 7.46"

Blade Length: 3.24"

"My Benchmade Bugout is only about 3/8" wide so it lays flat in my pocket. The handle is wicked tough plastic, knurled to give it a good grip. Locking blade, one-hand operation, pocket clip, serrated blade and made in the USA. It's awesome! " – Kelly

Krekel

Kershaw Leek

MSRP: $91.99 kershaw.kaiusa.com

Overall Length: 7"

Blade Length: 3"

"I have several Kershaw Leeks; narrow profile, relatively light, definitely durable!"

– Jim Knepper

"I've carried a Kershaw Leek since I was 13—lightweight and functional."

– Zach Perry

"I've been carrying a Kershaw Leek 1660 for a long time. I like it so much I gifted one to my riding buddies."

– Larry Keith

"I like the size, it's made of good steel and it can take a beating. The tips always become "custom" due to using it in unconventional ways."

– Ben Dragoo

Spyderco Delica®

MSRP: $176

spyderco.com

Overall Length: 7.12"

Blade Length: 2.87"

"My Spyderco Delica never leaves my side; it's one of the few I own."

– Steve Sanchez

Spyderco Shaman®

MSRP: $429

spyderco.com

Overall Length: 8.25"

Blade Length: 3.58"

"The Shaman is a little big, but it can do anything and feels great in the hand."

– Jackson Prescott

of our Members' Favorites... (pictured Left to Right)

Bohn's Mesh Armored Shirt

Like many riders, I sometimes ride in hot and humid conditions, even here in Canada, and I always follow the ATGATT model. I was hoping to find a top jacket which was comfortable in these types of temperatures. After much searching, I opted to give Bohn’s Mesh Armored Shirts a try due to the company’s reputation, the product reviews, and the look and style of these shirts.

I find it difficult sometimes to determine my size when shopping for garments online, and even using Bohn’s helpful sizing chart, I was still unsure, as I am sometimes a medium, and at other times, a large. Bohn offers their phone number and email address to assist with this. I opted to give them a call, and the lady I spoke to was extremely helpful.

After speaking with her, I chose a large, and it fits me just perfectly. I am average build, about 5’10” and 175 lbs. While I was speaking with her, I decided to place my order directly, but you can easily order online as well. As a MOA members, we qualify for a 10% discount on Bohn products, which was calculated immediately.

Now for the real test, riding in hot, humid weather. I first tried my mesh shirt during a four-day camping trip with lots of varied weather. I was riding near cool bodies of water and also in small towns which were quite a bit hotter. In the morning, when the weather was a little cool, I wore a long-sleeved t-shirt under the Bohn shirt and was very comfortable. When the temp increased in the afternoon, I wore a mesh t-shirt under the Bohn shirt and was once again very cool and comfortable. Also, on some of the hot rides, I tried my LD Comfort shirt, which I douse in water, and wore that under the Bohn shirt, along with Kevlar jeans-which also worked very well.

I found the Bohn shirt very good in a variety of temperatures, and people really seem to notice the bright yellow shirt I choose! When I show it to fellow riders, they are always very impressed with the design, look, and light weight of the shirt. Bohn also states one can wear this shirt under your favorite jacket, be it a motorcycle jacket or regular jacket making the shirt very versatile.

For those who want more information on the armor, Bohn provides a link on their website to Motorcycle Gear Hub which offers an in-depth review of Bohn’s CE Level 2 armor, but suffice to say, Bohn did not skimp on the armour they use with this shirt. Their armor meets or exceeds standard CE Level 2 certification but at the same time is extremely light and comfortable–it does

not weigh you down nor make the shirt uncomfortably hot. The armor covers the back, shoulders, and elbows/forearms.

All in all, I really enjoy my Bohn Mesh Armored shirt. It is light, comfortable, versatile, extremely visible, and I feel very protected due to the quality of armor within the shirt. Pricing varies from $193 to $203, and for more information, visit bohnarmor.com/.

Pros: 90-day money back guarantee, Free shipping to USA, 10 colors to choose from Cons: No zippered pockets, Extra duty if shipping to Canada

Steven has been riding for seven years. He started out with a 650 GS and two years ago, traded that for his current R 1200 RT which offers the perfect mix of agility, versatility and power. Steven is a Registered Nurse and currently works as a Nursing Professor at a Community College and at various Universities in Ontario, Canada. Steven is married to a wonderful woman and they have two children. He loves running, punk rock music, drumming, motorcycling and jasmine tea, not necessarily in that order.

Mosko Moto Reckless 40L Storage System, Part Two

A few months ago, I wrote a “first impressions” piece on the Mosko Moto Reckless 40L Luggage System. As I indicated then, I was impressed with the durability, versatility and the evidence it showed of the hands-on testing and design that has become typical of Mosko Moto gear. After using the storage solution this summer on- and off-road, I’ve found little that would keep me from recommending it for ADV riders.

“Bullet proof” may be an over-used adjective by moto writers, but in the case of the Reckless, it certainly applies. The “Bomber Hypalon” that the harness and storage pockets are made of appears indestructible, and I would now judge the components good for the life of the user. The tough fabric used for the side sleeves was very stiff at first, but became more pliable with use over a couple months. The many buckles and straps are also quite brawny, and stainless bolts with nylock nuts hold the sections together. If the twin pairs of storage

sleeves on the “legs” of the system were not protective enough, the two largest sleeves come with heavy vinyl drybags that slide in and offer even more protection from abrasion for your stuff, besides being completely water proof. The two sleeve drybags also make it easier to consolidate your gear and carry it to the tent or motel room and feature see-through windows, so you can remind yourself what you’ve packed in there, a nice touch for someone with a poor excuse for a memory like me.

The Mosko Moto system includes an 8-liter, heavy vinyl stuff sack/tailbag called “The Stinger.” At first, I regarded it as kind of an afterthought, but after seeing how adaptable it is to different configurations, I now use it all the time.

The Stinger can be buckled under the Reckless’s “Beaver Tail” and doubly secured with big hook and loop patches or attached in other spots using Mosko Moto’s ubiquitous Molle panels and straps. When not on camping expeditions, I used the Stinger for short hops to hold jackets, rain gear or other essentials I would want to access easily, and as an added bonus the Stinger stows straps in a pocket that turn it into a backpack. That Beaver Tail worked as an ideal home for my Redverz Atacama tent, and it has an extension flap for buckling it in with a bedroll,pad or trout rod case.

The Reckless luggage was easy to attach to a BMW 310 and a Kawasaki Versys and fits nicely on the rear of the seat or luggage rack; I leave mine on all the time. I think it would work on just about any ADV bike, but Mosko Moto does make the Reckless also in an 80-liter size for longer treks, and it’s probably more suited to something like a 1250 GS. Heavy 3/8” padding is layered on inside

all three sections of the Reckless harness to protect your bike’s seat and metal parts from any chafing, and since there are quite a few straps to secure gear on the Reckless, Mosko Moto has thoughtfully provided hook and loop “keepers” to keep them from flapping around.

One of the reasons I favored the Mosko Moto Reckless setup for carrying my gear was that no rack is needed. If you do drop the bike, the soft luggage just crushes in, nothing to get bent. Though the Reckless system runs more than $500, to buy quality soft bags or hard bags with racks could cost you twice that. For my uses, weekend camping outings or day trips, the 40L Reckless system held just about everything I needed. I’d recommend any rider shopping for luggage to take a look, and I have a feeling Noraly (“Itchy Boots”) Schoenmaker would agree!

Visit moskomoto.com for more information.

Mosko Moto Nomini Tank Bag

Though the Mosko Moto 40L Reckless system provides a lot of storage space, it doesn’t lend itself to quick, ready access to the little stuff that most riders carry. The obvious answer is a tank bag, but on an ADV/dual sport bike, I reasoned I didn’t need one of those expandable, microwave-sized behemoths just to hold ear plugs, sun glasses, license and registration. Ryan Turner at Mosko Moto suggested their “Nomini,” a bag just a little larger than a Jack Reipe book.

With the Nomini’s slim horizontal profile, it doesn’t interfere with standing on the pegs, even on off-road bikes with a high-humped gas tank, or interfere with steering or seeing dash screens. Unbuckle it from its four-strap harness, and it’s small enough to use as a fanny pack (a belt is included) or just tote around with its carry handle. So, the size of the Nomini I like, but some may find it too small to hold all the stuff they’d want ready at hand.

I also like the characteristic quality build that Mosko Moto is known for. It’s constructed with the same high-density, recycled nylon that most of the Mosko Moto gear uses, with a thick, padded base layer. The bag has a water repellent finish and does not come with a rain cover.

The Nomini uses the same harness as all of the Mosko Moto tank bags and seems very secure. When refueling, I just released the top two buckles and flipped the bag out of the way. The front and back straps of the harness can be connected to each other when the bag is off.

A shallow, zippered pocket on the rear of the Nomini is a good place for ear plugs or a multitool, while inside the bag are two more small, zippered pockets, one nylon-lined for documents, and one with see-through mesh. There is also a key clip inside, along with two stretch bands I used to hold a small notebook and slots for a pen or tire pressure gauge. On the outside on top is Mosko Moto’s typical Molle attachment panel for clipping things like a SPOT locator or cell phone case, but I would like to have seen maybe another stretchy band to hold gloves.

At a weight of 0.7 lbs. and a storage capacity of just two liters, I guess you could call the Mosko Moto Nomini a “nominal” tank bag, and truth be told, some may prefer a larger bag for long hauls, but for a rider of a smaller ADV/dual sport, less may just be more. The Nomini sells from Mosko Moto site for $65. For more information, visit moskomoto.com.

Ron Davis has been a rider, off and on, for about 50 years. Over that period, he’s also squeezed in a full-time career as a high school English teacher and later, a university professor while also working as a social media writer for the Northwest Ontario tourism industry and as an Associate Editor for BMW Owners News. His writing has been featured in a host of motorcycle magazines, and his essays have been broadcast frequently on Wisconsin Public Radio’s “Wisconsin Life.” He has also authored two books on motorcycling, Shiny Side Up and Rubber Side Down, published by Road Dog Publications (roaddogpub.com).

Weird Science: Rukka Phase Change shirts

Did you want to be an astronaut when you were little? While your chances of pursuing that career now are probably less than stellar (!), you can still wear something developed by NASA for space mission crews. It’s a textile called Outlast (made by a company of the same name, founded in the United States and now managed from Germany), and it utilizes something called “phase change” technology to regulate temperature over a wider range than is possible with conventional materials.

Recall from your eighth-grade science class that a change of phase refers to transitions between temperature-related states: water changes phase between solid and liquid at 0-degrees Celsius, and between liquid and gas at 100-degrees C. Part of the phase change process is the absorption or emission of energy as molecular bonds are formed or broken. Moving up the temperature scale, energy is required from the environment to break bonds. In the example of water, the crystalline structure of ice is

disrupted by the application of heat, which energizes the water molecules such that they no longer “sit still” in a frozen state. Further heating excites them to the point they bounce apart from each other so vigorously they expand into their surroundings in gaseous form. At each of these points, heat energy is transferred from the nearby environment to the water molecules. Going down the temperature scale, heat energy travels in the opposite direction, leaving gaseous water molecules as they settle back into a liquid state, and then even more so as they reach the quiescently solid form of ice. We experience these phenomena in everyday life. For example, the evaporation of our sweat carries heat away from our bodies and we feel cooler. More relevant to the mechanism employed by Outlast, holding an ice cube against our hot forehead melts the ice and relieves our overheating. Again, energy is transferred from our body to the solid H2O, transforming it into its liquid phase.

Outlast fabric doesn’t actually change back and forth between solid and liquid forms—that would make for a rather messy wardrobe malfunction! However, paraffin (the wax used in all sorts of things, from candles to cosmetics to jet fuel) microencapsulated within its fibers does change phase in response to surrounding temperatures. Outlast utilizes paraffin made from grapeseed oil, rather than the petroleum often used in other applications. While wearing an Outlast garment, body heat can be transferred to the paraffin, changing it from solid to liquid form. Think about the spike in body temperature that accompanies physical exertion as an energy emission and think of the paraffin as a battery that absorbs and stores that energy. Once the period of physical exertion ends, the body cools back down. Now the paraffin releases its stored energy, giving it back to the body while returning from liquid form to solid. Such temperature buffering helps the wearer remain comfortable through numerous cycles of exertion and rest, with a cooling effect as body temperature rises and a warming effect as body temperature falls. This reduces the amount of sweat produced (up to 48%, according to Outlast), as well as vulnerability to catching a chill after a temperature spike. Moto-travelers take note: Outlast clothing not only contributes to wearer comfort, but also requires less frequent washing, since it will be less soiled by fewer bodily secretions.

This is a quite different strategy than the use of “wicking” fabrics to transport sweat away from the skin. Outlast reduces the amount of perspiration to begin with, rather

Rukka Outlast in short sleeve.

than just moving it away after it’s been excreted. The advantages are two-fold. First, less water is lost from the body, reducing the risk of dehydration. Secondly, there’s no water to get rid of after being wicked away from the skin; what good is wicking if the transported water can’t evaporate because it’s behind additional layers of clothing? Even though Gore-Tex and similar textiles allow the release of water vapor from within a garment to the outside environment, rather than leaving the wearer sealed in an ultrahumidified “baggie,” this process is neither fast nor complete. People can look at the compelling graphics showing moist vapor flowing out through a permeable membrane and imagine it feels like ventilation. It does not. While definitely better than conventional textiles lacking such provision, Gore-Tex and its cousins can still hold considerable amounts of moisture inside as those water molecules queue up for their turn to exit via microscopic pores. This is especially true when a lot of moisture has been introduced suddenly, as it is during a surge of exertion and the associated sweating.

To the extent sweat is simply wicked away from the skin without further movement into the atmosphere via cooling evaporation, the wearer is still stuck inside a warm, swampy garment, which will feel wet against the skin wherever it’s pressed, like a damp sponge. Think about how your wicking shirt sticks to your skin underneath your back protector; it can’t shed the moisture/heat, so it remains wet and the skin under it stays hot. Wouldn’t it be better to just sweat less—or not at all—right from the start? Although nonriders frequently imagine motorcycling as a physically passive activity, like driving a car, it can actually be quite vigorous. Obviously, off-road riding makes serious demands on strength and endurance, and sport riding on the street can require considerable exertion while hustling a machine through the twisties. Also, it’s not just muscular activity that generates body heat and sweat—stress can do the same thing, and there are plenty of sources of that, even in mundane riding scenarios. The temperature buffer provided by Outlast doesn’t only work in one direction; fluctuations in ambient temps are mediated, too. A sudden drop or rise in the heat energy of the wearer’s surroundings will be regulated by the same principles in play on the garment’s interior, reducing the abruptness and extent of the impact of such changes on the body. Because the paraffin is permanently encapsulated, Outlast’s phase change properties don’t wear out or wash away over time.

Rukka Outlast fleece.

Rukka Outlast in long sleeve.

Finnish premium gear manufacturer Rukka saw the value of applying Outlast’s phase change properties to motorcycling garments (which, of course, can also be worn in all sorts of other endeavors wherein a person may generate or encounter significant temperature shifts). I bought three of their Outlast-equipped shirts: one lined inside with microfleece for colder conditions, and two without any added insulation, one long- and one short-sleeved. Keep in mind one of the worst contributors to hypothermia is sweat. A common mistake made by folks bundling up for frigid weather is dressing for warmth at rest, then saturating their clothes with sweat during physical exertion, and finally experiencing problematic heat loss because they remain wet after their activity level drops. I’m going to go out on a limb here, but I imagine people in Finland know a little something about the need to stay warm and dry.

Simply examining the Outlast fabric reveals nothing out of the ordinary. It looks and feels like a conventional, stretchy, breathable, synthetic base layer, and lists the expected polyester and elastane components—along with the invisible addition of the semi-synthetic viscose rayon comprising Outlast. A quick note on sizing: these shirts fit very differently, despite all being the same size. The thicker fleecy version, with its quarter-zip neck, is close-fitting, but relaxed, and can be worn over a tee-shirt or by itself. The thinner, lighter, uninsulated versions are quite snug, though not at all restrictive, due to the ease with which they stretch; they’re clearly meant to be the layer closest to your skin. Nevertheless, those at the larger edge of a standard size may want to go up one notch. Both long-sleeved shirts feature high collars to extend their effectiveness up around the neck, where temperature differentials can have outsized effects because of how much blood flows close to the surface there.

Upon donning one of these shirts, something feels a bit strange almost immediately, although it’s difficult to put into words. You might not notice this unless you pay close attention, but it’s slightly cool against the skin. I assume this is the paraffin absorbing the initial wave of energy from bodily contact. When outside in cold temps, it never feels particularly warm, but rather its ongoing coolness is incongruous with external conditions—it seems to just stay a little cooler than your skin without becoming cold. In warmer settings and during physical exertion, it just continues to feel slightly cool next to the skin, which stays dry longer because body temp doesn’t climb as you’d expect. It’s kind of eerie, really. Although you can definitely exceed the fabric’s performance

parameters and break a sweat, it’s also definitely more of a challenge to do so—the threshold is raised significantly. Likewise, these shirts are not an invincible barrier against extreme cold, but the outside temperature has to be lower— and stay lower—for the cold to reach your body. I estimate these shirts provide comfort in temps 5-8 degrees warmer and cooler than would a conventional synthetic fabric of equal thickness; that’s a total of 10-16 degrees of additional range, basically what you’d get from adding another layer.

Brief fluctuations that are readily sensed by exposed skin or even conventionally clad extremities, either never register inside the shirts or arrive in a delayed and muted manner. Of course, the additional insulation in the microfleece version shifts these thresholds down the thermometer, but the effects are the same for all three shirts. Also, don’t expect the fabric to stiffen up when cold. Somehow, the paraffin’s relative solidity/ liquidity doesn’t translate into any perceptible difference in texture. Flatlock seams ensure all points of bodily contact feel silky smooth, and the material glides easily in and out of jacket sleeves.

Compared to other wicking synthetics, Rukka’s Outlast shirts offer genuine advantages in regulating body temperature, especially when a) you’re dealing with heat and perspiration generated by bursts of physical exertion in cool or cold conditions (space travel involves more threat of hypothermia than hyperthermia), and/or b) you’re unable to quickly and efficiently evacuate heat and moisture from within layers of clothing (I’m guessing space suits don’t “breathe”). These garments also guard against dehydration by minimizing fluid loss (sweating). The wearer remains in a comfortably moderated temperature range throughout broad changes in ambient and bodily generated heat levels. Whatever sweat ends up being wicked away from the body by the Rukka shirts still needs a means of evaporative escape, so summer riding will require vented gear, albeit starting at a higher temp.

These remarkable qualities don’t come cheap. MSRP on the three shirts evaluated here are $119 (with microfleece), $69 (without), and $59 (tee). Pants are available for $69 and a one-piece full bodysuit is $99, both without microfleece. There’s also a snug-fit, full-zip, fleece jacket option for $149 and fleece pants for $99. Rukka’s Outlast lineup is available in any color you want, as long as its black, and sizing ranges from XS to 3XL. Despite its exotic technology, no special laundering is required. Rukka warranties their gear for two years against defects in materials or workmanship. See their website for a list of select retailers in the United States at rukka-usa.com.

Dis Big Pella Walkabout

It’s no secret that the last several years has seen a small explosion in the number of books written about “journeys around the world,” and such. Dr. Greg Frasier was among the first, later we had Sam Manicom and his girlfriend, Birgit, then the “Long Way Round” duo of Charley Long and Ewan McGregor wrote their story. Lastly, one of the most recent is Elspeth Beard telling of her trip in the early ‘80s on a R 60/6.

To be honest, I’d never read anyone’s story about a transnational/trans-continental trip until I saw Dis Big Pella Walkabout. When it comes to “around the world travel,” for me, frankly, there’s still too much of North America that I’ve not seen that prevents me from entertaining the thought of packing up a big GS to traipse across another continent or two. That, and I could never get the vacation time or the blessing of my wife to do something like that, let alone screw up the courage to do it alone or with perhaps one other. Plus, I’m in the risk management business, and while I happily embrace the risk of riding the blacktop of the USA, the thought of third world roads and drivers gives me the willies. But, when my friend, David Woodburn, decided to finally tell his tale to preserve it for his daughter and her children, I knew I had to take the time to read his story.

David is a carpenter by trade and a BMW rider/expert wrench by doing. Writing is not something he’s ever studied in school, and the creation of his book was done over four years, David writing it out longhand, and his wife, Emy, typing it up. Given that, you might think reading a self-published book by someone you’ve likely never heard of would be laborious. David’s book is most certainly not that.

After spending years crossing southeast Asia, across the sub-continent and on into Europe, David, Emy, and their daughter, Mattea, finally set off from Norway in 1998 on a homemade R 80G/S sidecar rig to cross from Morocco to South Africa. Mattea was ten years old. The book is about this portion of that long journey. Along the way, they experienced the gamut of human behaviors from thievery, extortion, and threats of violence to examples of hospitality that make you pause to consider the gift you’ve been given in relation to the poverty of the giver.

What sets David’s book apart from the others, aside from the fact that I consider him a friend, is that he did this with his wife and small daughter in tow through some clearly “not perfectly safe” portions of Africa. At over 300 plus pages, filled with photos and maps, the adventure is palpable, and David does a great job of painting a picture of both the immense struggle and the profound joy and peace that can accompany you through a physical and mental journey of this sort. In my mind, the differentiator of this book is that its half Africa adventure, half biography in which David discusses his ancestry, growing up without a father in Australia, meeting his Filipino wife, and ultimately winding up in

a town that’s not much more than a wide spot in the road in rural Georgia where he farms and repairs air cooled motorbikes.

David’s book is an adventure book, to be sure, but it’s also much more. He delves into many deeper topics than just the day-to-day slog of getting through the African mud to the next village. This book will make you stop to consider yourself in relation to the wider world, how you see people (good ones and bad ones), and most importantly, how you see yourself. I highly recommend it. You can get your copy by requesting it via David’s business’s Facebook page, Barnsley Motor Werks. The cost is $25 plus shipping.

Greg has been riding BMWs since he acquired his second motorcycle in 1988, a silver 1971 R 60/5. In the ensuing 35 years, he’s owned a smattering of classic K and Airhead R bikes, finally deciding he’s an Airhead forever. He rides a 1984 R 100, is the Airhead Club’s Airmarshal for Tennessee, and lives in Murfreesboro with his wife Mary and too many cats.

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GPS Positioning and Why Your Bike Might Be Smoking

Q: There have been many posts about repositioning the GPS unit from the lower position at the handlebars to the more forward position by the windscreen for easier viewing. I’m just wondering which is safer in the event of a crash? Yes, be alert, always have an exit point, ride within your limits, etc., and if unavoidable, lay the bike down and hope for the best. A lot of scenarios, but as an example, a deer can run into your path in an instant with no time to react. I just have this vision of one’s body sliding forward with nothing between the mounting unit and one’s groin.

I’m sure the most common answer will be, “If it really worries you then just take the darn thing off!” It doesn’t worry me, I just like to think through scenarios and how to best set up and ride a bike in the safest manner. —David

A.

A: First and foremost, “Lay the bike down and hope for the best” is always—repeat, ALWAYS—avoidable. Get trained, and sooner is better. Proper training plus practice and renewing your skills

periodically will prevent you from ever “having” to “lay the bike down.” The rubber tires on your bike have way more traction than the plastic, aluminum and steel that will contact the street if you “lay the bike down.” It’s unfortunate how persistent this “I had to lay ‘er down” myth is.

Having said that, putting the GPS higher on the bike puts it more in your natural line of sight, and since you asked, that is always a good thing in my book. The photo below of my cockpit shows both of my GPS units (don’t ask), and you can see the main one is dead center and high up, right where it’s most useful. This is to hopefully help prevent a crash exacerbated or even caused by looking away from the road ahead.

You might be worried about catching a high-mounted GPS unit with a rib or something on your way over the handlebar in case of a bad crash—my opinion there is that’s likely to be the least of your worries, so don’t worry about it. Put your GPS up where you can

see it at a glance without moving your head.

Q: After my 2017 R 1200 GS has been sitting for a few days, a large amount of smoke comes out of the exhaust for about 10 seconds. Does this seem normal? I’ve had the bike since it was new and don’t recall this early on. My Harley lives on the side stand and doesn’t smoke. –Shawn G.

A: “Normal” is relative. For example, what is normal for a 1975 R 90/6 is not likely normal for a 2017 R 1200 GS in a lot of respects. We might also differ on what “a large amount of smoke” is, based on our different backgrounds and experiences. There are several reasons why you might be seeing smoke from your exhaust when you first start your bike—and not all of them are necessarily cause for concern.

If it’s white smoke, that’s probably a normal byproduct of the combustion process when starting a cold engine; as the system rapidly heats up, it creates water vapor, which comes out the tail pipe as white smoke. You say it clears up in about 10 seconds, which makes me think this is the most likely case.

Another possibility—and not a good one—is only likely if the smoke continues well after the bike has warmed up. If that was the case, I’d recommend you have the cylinder head gaskets checked, and check for cracks in the cylinder head while you’re at it, as that could be a sign coolant is getting into one or both of the combustion chambers.

Black smoke indicates a too-rich fuel-air mixture; since your bike’s fuel/air/spark system is computer-controlled, this isn’t terribly likely unless you’ve made changes to the fuel mapping (and left that detail out in your description) or if the computer has gone wonky. This is far more likely with carbureted bikes than fuel-injected ones, but it’s still a possibility. You can check for a

rich mixture by pulling out your spark plugs and looking at the tip—if it’s black with soot, you’re running too rich. You want to see a nice, even brown on the business end of your spark plugs.

Seeing blue/gray smoke is getting into scary areas. This is usually an indicator that oil is getting into the combustion chamber, where only fuel and air should be. If this is the case, my first thought would be bad piston rings, but since your bike is less than 10 years old, I don’t think that’s likely. Another unlikely cause could be worn valve seats, but again, with a 2017, not terribly likely—this is something you’re more likely to see on an Airhead with high miles. Even less likely is that you’ve put the incorrect oil—weight or type—into your engine. It’s worth changing the oil after checking your owner’s manual for the correct spec and purchasing exactly the right oil. My thinking on this last one is that if you’d done that, you’d be having problems shifting, as putting regular car oil into a 2017 R bike would quickly be obvious due to the wet clutch.

No matter what, good luck and please follow up and let us know if you found an issue. If you like, take some video on startup and send that to me, you can reach me at wes@bmwmoa.org.

Wes Fleming tried being a rock star for 25 years, but gave all that up to focus on motorcycles. His mother still hasn’t forgiven him. The first new motorcycle he ever bought got run over by a car – with him still in the saddle. He discovered BMWs thanks to a friend in 2001 and has been riding trendy, not-so-trendy and sidecarequipped BMWs ever since. Wes currently holds down multiple jobs, including freelance guitar consultant and history professor; when he's not pacing around his empty nest, he's out looking for a great deal on a used motorcycle.

A Rite of Passage Part 2

BY DUSTIN SILVEY #224778

On a road trip lasting four months and more than 24,000 kilometers (15,000 miles) it can be difficult to really get to know the places one visits. When you are on the tourist trail of top-rated site after site, are you really spending time getting to know the real people and their culture? Yes, Janel and I only spent our trip in Canada; however, Canada is a mosaic of different cultures, traditions and languages that are dispersed across its vast landscape. Finding a place that demonstrates the history and a true story of its people is priceless to me. After taking on what would be the most difficult section of our cross Canada trip, we stumbled upon a place that not only gave us some rest and relaxation, it also taught us the unique and special history of the people who inhabit Labrador. We still, however, had to get there.

With Route 389 behind us and 533 km (330 miles) of the Labrador Highway completed, our spirits were riding high. We spent two nights at the Royal Inn and Suites in Happy Valley-Goose Bay hoping to explore the area and learn about the region. Other than a beautiful hike on the Birch Island Boardwalk, however, the rain (once again) kept us rather sheltered in our hotel. I spent the time instead preparing our bikes for the 404 km (251 miles) stretch of highway that connected Happy-Valley-Goose Bay and Port Hope Simpson. This barren stretch of highway is well known for its lack of facilities; for this length of the journey there are no towns, no gas stations, no rest stops, no cell service; just trees, muskeg (swamp), and likely moose. Traffic as well is limited on this road; thus, a breakdown is not recommended. With this in mind, I set to checking our chains, tire pressure and oil, and gave the bikes a bit of a cleaning under the hotel overhang. With the bikes in peak condition, the next day we filled up our jerry cans with premium fuel and started what I was confident would be the last real challenging part of our journey.

The weather forecast for the day was cloudy and around 14 degrees Celsius (57 Fahrenheit), which for July was a little on the colder side. We bundled up (something we were very accustomed to at this point) and hoped the clouds would hold the rain back. Our first challenge came quickly; to leave Happy Valley-Goose Bay we had to cross over the Churchill River via the 360-metre grated bridge. For those of you who have not ridden over a grated bridge, it really isn’t a pleasant experience as the bike doesn’t feel stable and the tires slide around a bit. On this day, the bridge was also damp from the previous day’s rain, which just added insult to injury. So far on this trip I had been the calm team member when things got difficult, but not

on this day. With each swerve of the bike my butt checks clenched hard enough to break steel, my knees squeezed the bike as I kept repeating the mantra “look where you want to go,” and I tried to keep my hands loose on the handle bars. After what felt like hours, my front tire came off the bridge onto the flat asphalt, and the tenseness in my body was finally released when I saw Janel make it across the bridge safely in my rear-view mirror. With a laugh and a sigh, we both hoped this was not a sign of things to come.

Leaving civilization behind us, we journeyed into the vast wilderness that is Labrador. The muskeg hugged the road tightly, and as we came up over hills, we could see the empty road stretching for miles out in front of us. We had made a plan that we would stop every 100 km (62 miles) to stretch and rest our bodies to prevent us from getting too tired. The engineers in Labrador planned well; there were several pullouts for us to stop at to take breaks, have a walk and enjoy a snack. At our second stop, I was pulling out some cookies we bought in Happy Valley-Goose Bay, and as I turned around, I noticed Janel was pulling off some dance moves next to her bike.

“You are in a good mood,” I said while observing this beautiful woman break down some pretty awesome moves in her Sidi Adventure boots.

“I am freezing!” Janel replied, as she continued to bust a move. “I have to warm up somehow!”

I went back to the bike and grabbed her some hot water. After a few sips the dance party ended.

“We are halfway and at least it isn’t raining,” I told her. So far, the clouds had held, and I could only hope they would continue to hold for a few more hours.

When we hit the 300 km (186 mile) mark, we crossed a bridge and found a little rest stop next to a river. It was a lovely spot, and we thought it would be a perfect place to refuel the bikes. Taking off our helmets, we noticed an information sign and were able to see how far we had come. Actually seeing on the map the distance we had already travelled reinvigorated our stamina. We were already feeling the rush of accomplishment. This wonderful feeling was dampened at this exact moment as blackflies discovered our presence. The swarm attacked us from all angles, they ravaged my face as I tried to fuel the bikes. Janel continued to dance to not only warm up, but to keep the little menaces off her. With only a little fuel wasted as I swatted the flies away, we had full tanks and tore out of our makeshift fuel station much quicker than when we arrived. (Note for anyone hoping to do this trip, don’t stop near a river to refuel.)

Dancing to stay warm.

“If you aren't over your head, how do you know how tall you are?”

~ T.S. Eliot

The rest of the ride was uneventful. For the length of the barren road the rain never came. We passed 17 oncoming vehicles (three of which were motorcycles) and did not have a single issue with our bikes. We searched Port Hope Simpson for Campbell’s Place Inn where we would rest our heads that night, while our stomachs rumbled with the thought of a hot meal. Once we arrived, I started unloading the bikes and that was when the clouds broke open and rained poured down from the heavens. Getting everything inside as quickly as possible, I was pleasantly surprised by the washer and dryer in the common room. Being able to do laundry for free on a four-month road trip is always a blessing. After a hamburger and some fries at the hotel restaurant, we did some laundry and fell asleep listening to the rain drops outside.

The next morning, we were in for a short 50 km (30 mile) ride to Mary’s Harbour where we would take a ferry to the remote fishing community of Battle Harbour. It was an uneventful, short ride. We turned off the Labrador Highway towards Mary’s Harbour and to my excitement we hit a rough and potholed dirt road. The heavy rains of the year had done some real damage to some of the dirt roads that branched off from the Labrador Highway, and this gave us another opportunity to put our skills and Motoz tires to the test. Janel followed my lines as we switched from one side of the road to the other trying to avoid getting into ruts for the one-kilometre ride into town. Arriving in town, we had a bit of extra time before our sailing, so we headed to the Great Caribou Studio and Café. Charlene

Rumbolt was there to greet us with smiles, coffee and stories of the area. One of the most interesting stories was the fact that Great Caribou Island, which is located just across a small section of ocean from Battle Harbour called a “tickle.” has caribou on it for the first time in many decades. The caribou have been declining for many years in Labrador due to climate change and over hunting, and their resurgence was seen as a sign of positive change. After some more coffee and stories, we rode the bikes to the harbour to catch our ferry to Battle Harbour.

Not being near the bikes for three days was going to be strange: as we left them in the parking lot, I felt as though I left my dog sitting on the side of the dock. I could almost hear the bikes revving in sad melancholy tones, missing us as much as I missed them. With reassurances from the staff that the bikes left there would be well looked after while they awaited their owners’ return, I turned my focus instead to our ferry ride into the Atlantic Ocean.

Sailing to Battle Harbour, the clouds were low in the sky and the wind was picking up making the boat sway and crash among the waves. Nelson, a long-term resident of Battle Harbour and Peter, the Executive Director, showed us a map of the area and gave us a short summary of what to expect when we arrived. Nelson had a thick east coast accent that could be difficult to follow if you didn’t listen carefully along with a dry sense of humor that you really had to watch in order to avoid getting caught being gullible. The stories made the sailing go by quickly and as we came into the tickle that separates Battle Harbour from

The ferry ride to Battle Harbour.

Great Caribou Island, Janel and I were both shocked at the beauty of the place. The rocky island devoid of any trees or vegetation higher than a person’s waist was dotted with several old east coast fishing homes built on stilts climbing from the ocean up to a rocky cliff; fog and mist drifted between the homes, while a small amount of rain added a slight chill to the air. In the middle of all the homes sat a red and white church, and further down the island near the narrowest point of the tickle was the dock and some staff patiently awaiting our ferry.

After a quick orientation of the area, a staff member walked us the short way to the traditional fishing home where we would be staying. Entering the house, we were welcomed by a modern meets classical home design: a wood stove was burning in the dining room/kitchen which instantly took away the chill from the boat ride; beautiful photographs of the area adorned the walls; upstairs we had a plush queen bed with a small window that looked out onto the ocean, and in another room two twin beds (I think Peter might have been concerned we had spent too much time together). More than pleased with our accommodations and with camera in hand, we followed the many boardwalks to the

dining house for our first meal on the island.

As there are no shops on the island, and all meals are prepared for guests. Cooking up traditional Labrador meals, the cooks dedicate time to ensure each meal is one to be remembered. One of our favorite items were the traditional biscuits. When I mentioned this to Daphne, one of the cooks and another long-term resident, she invited Janel to come and make some biscuits with her. With apron on, Janel dug her hands into the dough, getting a solid arm workout, while Daphne told us stories of growing up on the island with her more than ten siblings. This was one of the most interesting parts of Battle Harbour; the majority of people that work there used to live there when the place was still a fishing community. Now most residents only come out for the summer months and live in Mary’s Harbour or other remote communities for the rest of the year.

After a tour of the museum (again with Nelson and his dry humor), Janel and I headed back to have a quick rest before

dinner and socializing with other guests and residents. On our way, we saw a small grey arctic fox scurrying around the houses. I pulled my camera up and started snapping photographs,

Making biscuits.

thinking I would only have seconds to capture some images of this little critter. Instead, I followed him for about 20 minutes while he stopped to pose, stare at me, stretch and just take it easy. Later, when Nelson took me on a boat ride to find some icebergs and whales, I asked him about the foxes, and he informed me that the animals are very familiar with the residents and often try to get into the homes to rest near the fires. The little rascal was probably hoping I was going to feed him.

After three days of learning about the history and hiking around Battler Harbour and Great Caribou Island, we packed up our bags and started our journey back to the mainland and the motorcycles. On our last day, the sun came out and we sailed away from the sunrise towards the last 1100 km (680 miles) of our trip out east. Janel continually speaks about how much she loved Battle Harbour and wants to go back. It was so interesting to really get to know the people, culture and landscape there. A place as special as Battle Harbour isn’t often found while travelling and it is definitely worth the stop. Overall, it was a fantastic break from the bikes, but now, it was time to carry on.

Next up, the island of Newfoundland, a bit of COVID-19, and France!

If you want to see some footage from our time riding to or at Battle Harbour you can on YouTube at “Lost in Gear,” or view images on Instagram @ lostingear.

Below, Battle Harbour. Top right, A small, grey arctic fox entertained us. Center and bottom right, An iceberg and one of the whales seen near the island.

An abandoned boat stranded on the shoreline of Battle Harbour.

Things to do and places to stay along this section of the Labrador Highway:

Battle Harbour: I can’t sell this place much more than I already have. It really is a cultural experience that should not be missed by anyone visiting Labrador. Since our visit, Battle Harbour has started a Trans-Labrador Highway Motorcycle Special. The special includes people keeping an eye on your bikes, a place to store your gear in the back room (just ask when you check in), the ferry voyage, guided tours, six meals and one night accommodation; however, you can always extend this (I do recommend staying a minimum of two nights). The cost is about $825 ($625 USD) for two people and more information can be found at battleharbour.com.

Great Caribou Studio and Café: While you are waiting for you ferry to Battle Harbour, be sure to check out Great Caribou Studio and Café. For a quick coffee or to check out the many crafts. Janel bought a lovely home sweater there that she wears all the time. Contact number (709) 921-6311.

Royal Inn and Suites: Located in Happy Valley-Goose Bay, this hotel is newly renovated and has great staff and fantastic rooms. You will get a good night’s sleep here, which you will need for the long empty highway stretch that awaits you the next day (or after that stretch if you are coming east to west). Prices range from $170 to $285 for the suite ($130 to $216 USD) and more information can be found at royalinnandsuites.ca.

Campbell’s Place Inn: There are only two places to stay in Port Hope Simpson, and in my opinion, this is the better of the two. With only a few rooms, a common room, restaurant connected and free laundry, you just can’t go wrong here. Rooms are $115 ($88 USD) per night for two people and include breakfast. You really can’t beat that. To book give them a call at (709) 960-0291.

Dustin grew up in Quesnel, British Columbia, and began riding on the back of his father's motorcycle many years ago. He has a doctorate of Community Health with a speciality in Indigenous health. He currently works several contract positions with Indigenous organizations across Canada. Dustin's publication credits include The Globe and Mail, CBC, and Vice News, along with several extreme sport magazines such as Explore, Sidetracked, Canoe and Kayak, and Paddle Magazine Dustin and Janel currently live in Powell River, British Columbia.

LIFESTYLE COLLECTION

Thanks to everyone that stopped by our booth at the National Rally! Visit moalifestyle.org for more.

In our continuing efforts to bring innovative products and services to our membership, the MOA is excited to offer The Lifestyle Collection. For the first time, the MOA and Klim are offering co-branded apparel. Klim is the global leader in designing, developing and manufacturing, the most advanced technical riding gear and motor sports apparel for motorcycle riders.

Genuine Magic on the SMOKY MOUNTAIN MAGIC TOUR

By James Bellerjeau #228297

Photos by Pam and Tom Werstler #84761

How long does it take a group of strangers to become friends? The answer might help you decide if the Smoky Mountain Magic Tour is something you’d like yourself.

At first glance, our group had little in common. Different ages, backgrounds, educations, and occupations. Some had ridden hundreds of thousands of miles and toured around the world. Others were new to BMW, new to touring, or even new to on-road riding.

We did have two things in common. The first was reading emails from the BMW Motorcycle Owners Association, and the second was being quick to decide on trying a new kind of adventure. The tour was quickly sold out and waitlisted.

The adventure felt special from the first moment.

Imagine you’ve been invited to join a comfortable family reunion that collects relatives together across time and distance. Now imagine a few personalities larger than life holding court and re-telling stories delighting old-timers and newcomers alike.

From the moment we arrived, our hosts made us feel just like we made it to that sprawling family reunion. Smiles and genuine pleasure at seeing us again even though it was the first time we met.

I’ll tell you about how the inaugural Smoky Mountain Magic Tour worked and what we did. I feel confident predicting this will be one of BMW MOA’s most popular tours of all time.

Whether it’s something you’d like to try is for you to decide.

The Setup and Format

To set the stage, here are a few excerpts from the tour description:

On this tour, not only will you ride the iconic roads of the Smokys, you will also have a chance to discover the side roads and places off the beaten path in the heart of the mountains.

We rode some of the best-known roads for biking in the country, together with a number of hidden gems that only locals traverse.

We will ride at a relaxed pace averaging 150 miles each day with regular breaks. If you and your passenger have always wanted to ride in the mountains, but don’t want to worry about “keeping up” with a fast group pace, this is the tour for you!

It turns out not everyone is a racer at heart. Or maybe it’s been a while since you saddled up for a multi-day tour. Or you’re riding with a pillion who’s new to touring. Whatever your reason, the tour’s friendly pace explicitly acknowledged that sometimes it’s better to travel than to arrive.

This is an “all-inclusive” tour that includes your lodging, meals, and even your gas during the tour. All you need to do is check in on the first night and we’ll take it from there!

The ultimate in convenience, with the organizers taking care of every detail. Riders need only show up and enjoy the experience.

You arrive at the resort within a generous window on the first day, the evening of which consists of a group dinner and an overview of the tour. You take day trips from the resort for the next three days, combining riding, dining, and sightseeing.

What turned out to be the real highlights of each day were the evening drinks and dinner when we compared notes, shared stories and became fast friends.

Our Hosts

Four names made for an unforgettable experience: Vance and Mari Harrelson, and Bob and Sue Aldridge. Long-time BMW MOA members may recognize those names.

If so, you might be thinking of words like kind, thoughtful, welcoming, and funny ambassadors for the brand, sure, but also a ton of fun to spend time with.

Here’s an example to give you an idea of what I mean. One night our group sat around the fire pit at the resort. It was a lovely evening, and we were both tired and relieved at having the first day of touring behind us, including the amazing Tail of the Dragon.

Although the fire pit had been reserved for our group, there was already a couple there when we arrived. Another person would have mentioned this, but instead, Vance engaged them in friendly conversation, effortlessly making them part of the group.

Bob had us all laughing uproariously as he told a tale of a shortcut that ended rather more abruptly than planned. It was a lovely evening, made more so by virtue of being so relaxed and welcoming.

From our morning breakfasts to our evening briefings, it was clear our hosts had carefully considered ways to make the tour the best they could. They drew upon their own experience touring, adopting best practices, and smoothing out hassles.

With Vance and Mari in the lead and setting the “speed limit” pace, Bob and Sue brought up the rear of our convoy each day, with Sue in the support truck.

The Riding

There’s a reason the Blue Ridge Mountains are the most visited National Park in the United States. Sadly, I suspect it’s because it’s so easy to drive there via the Blue Ridge Parkway. Many never step outside their cars as they “visit” this area of natural splendor.

On a motorcycle tour, the experience of the Blue Ridge Mountains is altogether different and wonderful. Your pillion enjoys unending vistas of softly forested mountains stretching off into the hazy distance. You see low fog lying on still waters and rivers in the cool mornings.

And the roads! Hundreds of miles of sweeping, curving, twisting two-lane roads winding through forests amid dappled sunlight. From gentle switchbacks to gut-wrenching decreasing radius turns, this is nothing like chewing up the interstate miles.

For everyone wondering how 150 miles a day can take eight hours, try to picture what a road with 318 turns in 11 miles must look like and you’ll have an idea. Here are some of the fine roads we rode: US 129, the Cherohala Skyway, and the Tail of the Dragon, Moonshiner 28, the Nantahala Gorge and US 64 to Highlands and back. The Great Smoky Mountain Expressway to Cherokee, Maggie Valley and the Road to Nowhere.

The Smoky Mountain Magic Tour includes hundreds of miles of sweeping, curving, twisting two-lane roads winding through forests amid dappled sunlight.

Above, The curves never end in the Smokys. Below, It doesn't take long for strangers to become frriends on the Smoky Mountain Magic Tour.

The Attractions

Riding through the Smoky Mountains is no doubt the main attraction. That said, every tour is a staccato of riding and stopping, stretching and fueling. Our organizers gave thought to the pause that refreshes.

We alternated between taking in the natural beauty and some manmade attractions. The area is dotted with water features, resulting from many rivers and the Tennessee Valley Authority projects to create hydroelectric dams. On one day we took in the Cheoah Dam, Tapoco Lake, Santeetlah Gap, and Bald River Falls.

Another day we made our way to downtown Highlands, where we combined a lunch break with a chance to sightsee and shop. Many bikers will have heard of the Wheels Through Time museum in Maggie Valley, and the tour deposited us there with time to visit.

We enjoyed carefully planned fuel stops for riders and bikes each day. Our meals were uniformly excellent.

And while gas is gas, not every station sells premium gas (who knew?), and not every restroom has multiple stalls. Although we lined up in pit stop fashion, 11 bikes in an orderly row for efficient fueling, everyone had time for a bio break as needed.

The Riders

How long it takes for strangers to become friends depends, of course. It depends on the setting they’re in, and on the people themselves. Our group of 18 people included seven couples and four solo riders.

For our group, a big part of the magic was the welcoming environment that Vance, Bob, Mari, and Sue created. It simply was not possible to be shy or uncomfortable for long.

Each night we talked about highlights from the day. At some point, Bob would loudly proclaim in an Australian accent “It’s awards time!” before handing out awards for amusing events that happened during the day. No one was spared, meaning everyone won an award for something before the tour finished.

Alongside steady banter between Vance (aka Foghorn Leghorn, “somebody GOT to be in management”) and Bob (aka the Showman, “when you ain’t the lead dog, the scenery never changes”), look at some of the words that riders used to describe their days: gratitude, awesome, twisty , fellowship, camaraderie, community, easy friendships, memories and trusting.

The MOA is a community of people like us, making friends around the world. It is built around the motorcycle, but it is personal and thrives because of the people.

The fabric of our lives can be fragile and built from solitary threads. Or it can be woven from multiple strands, gaining strength from the people we meet. On the Smoky Mountain Magic Tour, we laughed and joked more each night and pretty much had a fantastic time together.

If that isn’t magic, I don’t know what is.  Ride well and be well.

For information about the Smoky Mountain Magic Tour scheduled for October, visit bmwmoa.org/event/fallsmoky

James was General Counsel of an S&P 500 company for two decades, and later Head of its Global Sustainability Program. He served as President of the Association of Corporate Counsel Europe and writes the Career Path column for the ACC Docket, the magazine for in-house lawyers. He teaches at the University of Zurich and is an executive coach for newly promoted general counsels.

Bonding through Dirt: A Mother and Daughter Journey through Rider Training

About five years ago, I was invited to join a women’s dirt riding group. I’ve never been one to dive headfirst into physical challenges, and the thought of strapping on a helmet and hopping on a dirt bike would have been a hard no for me. But buried deep down, I felt like there was a smidge of untapped adventure.

This led me to Wailin’ Wayne, the western Ohio rally that kickstarted my off-road adventures. Armed with a used Suzuki DR200, any riding advice that was offered and admittedly not a clue in my head, I took to the trails. While at Wailin’ Wayne, I took a DAART class taught by Zeke Sikich and David Knight. Little did I know that this was the beginning of new thrills, a fantastic community, and an unexpected journey with my daughter.

As I continued to ride, attend rallies, and hang out with my new community, I noticed my daughter Vivy was intrigued by my newfound love for dirt riding and the confidence I was slowly building. So, I decided to sit her on a friend’s little 80. Although initially nervous, I had her ride in flat fields, and she soon caught the adventure bug; just like Ricky Bobby, she wanted to go fast! But I’m no moto instructor, so as she got older, taking instructions from mom and stepdad became more of a chore than a joy, if you know what I mean. Her riding took a backseat for a while until fate intervened once again.

About a year ago, I was still super nervous on a bike, even though I’d switched to a Honda CRF230, and I almost

gave up. I knew Vivy could see that, and I didn’t want her to be discouraged. That’s when my hubby, Mike, had me try out our friend’s TTR 125. It was like finding the perfect pair of riding boots. With a lower seat height and a lighter frame, I finally felt more in control, and my confidence soared. The thrill of the ride, the camaraderie with my community, and the breathtaking views became such a unique and important part of my life that I really wanted to share that magic with Vivy.

Enter Cory Samuell with Sprocket Sisters. Cory invited Vivy and me to take their all-female riding class together at last year’s Wailin’ Wayne, taught by Shalmarie with SheADV. I wanted to get back to the basics with my new bike and

Mom and Vivy riding together in the beginning.

improve my skills and confidence, while Vivy needed help navigating the basics and conquering her fear of falling and standing on the bike pegs. It was the perfect opportunity to spend quality time with my daughter, sharing something I love and hoped she could love, too. Learning alongside a group of fun and encouraging women created an atmosphere that made Vivy feel more comfortable.

On the first day of class, Vivy clung to the comfort of sitting firmly on her bike and refused to stand, no matter the coaxing from this fantastic group of ladies. With gentle persistence and the patience of a saint, Shalmarie worked her magic. By day two, Vivy finally decided to stand! It was such a proud mama moment to witness her overcome that fear and find that spark of

self-confidence while these women celebrated her victory. We both left that class with a new belief in our skills!

The class taught by Zeke and David five years ago was a turning point for me. Then a few years later, the Sprocket Sisters training became a turning point for us both. With a little more practice and a bike that’s a bit more her size, together we get to share this spirit of adventure, the camaraderie of our riding community and the belief that we’re capable of more on a dirt bike than we’d been giving ourselves credit for.

Sara Uhlenbrock-Heath lives in rural Indiana with her husband, Mike, whom she serendipitously met at her very first rally—the 2018 Wailin’ Wayne Rally, and her 15-year-old mini me, Viviana. When not riding her beloved TTR 125 through the trails or spending time with her family, Sara channels her energy into her business, Uhlsee Branding & Design, where she creates brand identities and strategies for small businesses and job seekers.

Ivy finally standing on the pegs following Sprocket Sisters training.

Vivy and Mom while training with the Sprocket Sisters.

A Family that Rides Together Stays Together

Riding a motorcycle is a great hobby to enjoy alone or with friends, but what about riding with loved ones such as your spouse, son, daughter, sibling, or even your own father or mother? Sharing your passion of motorcycling with your immediate family definitely has it upsides as well as a few potential downsides.

First, let’s talk about some of the positive aspects of riding with your immediate family members. Riding with a family may actually increase your time in the saddle by not making you choose between riding or spending time with your family. By bringing them along for the ride, you can spend quality time together making long lasting memories for years to come. By sharing your riding passion with your family, you also open the doors for potentially more interesting and exciting vacations. A family road trip can now be taken with your motorcycle instead of car. The possibilities are endless when you think outside the box, especially if that box is paved and you’re inclined to move some adventures off-road. Why stay in a hotel every night when you can find that amazing campsite next to a beautiful waterfall along a trail while moto camping? I think you’re seeing where this is going. There truly are no closed doors when it comes to seeing the world behind the bars of a motorcycle.

Now that I have your attention, what are some potential downsides of riding with family? Perhaps you find throwing your leg over the saddle is your escape

from the family. While this is may be true for some, others might argue that riding is their escape from the stresses of work and that bringing the family along only makes it better. The big question is how to bring those family members along if they have an interest in joining your passion of motorcycling?

An easy and most obvious solution is to start utilizing the pillion seat. But first, getting your family properly protected is

your family member is your spouse, though it could be your daughter, son, etc. Imagine now that your spouse doesn’t want to ride on the back with you, but instead wants to be in the saddle directly behind the bars and in control of her own motorcycle. She wants to feel that independence of the open road before her and the feeling of the motorcycle in her control. If you are thinking YES, the excitement begins!

Shopping for a new or new to her motorcycle offers so many choices. Does she want a different brand of motorcycle? What will her taste in a motorcycle be? How will she learn to ride? Now you might be thinking that you may not have thought this all the way through, but she’s excited to learn a new skill and to share your passion with you. What’s your next step?

important, which can be an expensive endeavor. Second, are you ready for a passenger? Filling that passenger seat takes your responsibility to another level. You need to ask yourself if you have the riding skills to ensure a passenger’s safety. Understand that your motorcycle will handle differently with the added weight and that weight is dynamic, meaning it can and will move behind you. This will change the way your motorcycle handles from parking lot speeds to highway speeds, especially during an emergency maneuver. So how do you prepare yourself?

In my example, I’m going to assume

Step one is to get her signed up for an MSF class. I say this for several reasons, with the first being that she might find that motorcycling is more involved mentally and physically than she originally imagined and may not be for her after all. I also suggest enrolling her in an MSF class because I believe it could save your relationship or marriage.

Once she’s a newly licensed rider, it’s time to get her a motorcycle. My recommendation is for you to let her pick it out because she’ll be the one riding it, not you. Let the motorcycle represent her and how she wants to be represented. When I went through this process, I recommended my wife could choose any motorcycle that she wanted with only

Jason and Angel Weilnau.

one stipulation, that it had to have ABS.

Watching your wife shop for a motorcycle can be a fun experience as you visit different dealers and watch her sit on and pick out what she wants. You might even find a new side of your wife that you were previously unaware of. Be open during this experience and let her explore motorcycling to its fullest.

Congratulations! Your wife is licensed and has found her motorcycle. It’s finally time to go for her inaugural ride. But wait, you’ve realized you missed something, and it is bigger than you ever imagined. During that first ride you’re asking yourself over and over, how did I miss this? How did I miss that my wife, the person that you love and will protect even if your life is in danger, is now riding a motorcycle in front of you. She’s a new rider, and you wonder if she will negotiate the sharp turn ahead, the truck that could pull out in front of her, or the rain storm that you are riding into. Suddenly, your enjoyable ride has turned stressful and the stresses that you try to escape are now with you on the motorcycle. What do you do now?

Though you invited the family member to share your hobby, you may have found yourself in a conundrum. Offering to add a family member onto the pillion seat offers a new responsibility that you may not have been prepared for. Adding a new rider to the family may add a layer of stress that you were trying to escape. How does your new riding member prepare for the inevitable when that situation arises? You realize that your new rider needs proper training beyond a basic MSF class to ensure their safety and your sanity.

When it comes to your safety and the safety of your family, I recommend seeking a professional training provider that you can count on for proper education. Now, ask yourself, do I myself need professional training? Perhaps you

believe that since you’ve been riding for more than 30 years and have put thousands and possibly hundreds of thousands of miles on a motorcycle, you don’t need it. But, have you been riding a motorcycle for 29 of those years as a first-year novice rider? This is a great opportunity for you and your new rider to make your first motorcycle memory by taking a defensive riding class together.

I say that because you and your loved one’s lives may depend on it. I suggest you look for a reputable school that has positive reviews and a good track record. You want professional instruction that will get you out of your comfort zone and be able to provide feedback after each exercise to help you succeed. Education like this is not cheap, so be prepared to look at it as an investment that your life depends on. Feel free to ask for discounts, look for scholarships, and ask your insurance agent what type of premium discount you can expect once you’ve

completed your training.

Look at rider training as an opportunity to bond with that new rider and to further your own skills. I say this because I’ve had riders come into my class and tell me they are there to support their new rider and that I probably won’t teach them something they don’t already know. They’ll go on to say they’ve been riding for 30 years and have over 500,000 miles covered on two wheels.

My reply is always; “I’m happy to see you at the school to support your new rider. Please be open to the instruction and that you can possibly learn something or maybe teach me something.” Without fail, by the end of the first or second day, they’ll pull me aside to say, “I can’t believe what I didn’t know” or “I’ve been riding like a first-year rider for 29 years.”

Once you’ve found a school, you’ll most likely have options on the course to take. Be honest with yourself; as fun as a

super bike school may sound, you are most likely riding on the street. You will want to look for a defensive riding class or a street tactical class that will focus on more on how to operate a motorcycle and how to react in an emergency situation. You could also take an off-road class as well if you want to go that route. Whatever school you choose, you’ll want to ensure that you and your new rider become comfortable handling the motorcycle during an emergency or when an evasive action is needed.

I wrote part of this article as my wife was taking a class. She had been off her bike for the past year as she was pregnant with our son and had been nursing him for his first six months. Once she had recuperated and the weather was inviting, she was ready to be back in the saddle and behind the bars again. She really wanted to take the Two-Day Off-Road course at the BMW Rider Academy in Greer, South Carolina, since

Watching my wife choose proper lane position and lean into each corner is pure joy for me.

she had so much fun in that class before. Instead, I signed her up for the Two-Day Street Survival class and put her on a F 750 GS as she requested. I wanted her to be safe on the street and prepared for the inevitable danger that comes with motorcycling.

She came out of the class thoroughly impressed with what she learned and the new tools she had in her tool belt. A couple days after she finished the course, we had the pleasure to take our first ride together. It was very comforting knowing that she was even more safe and confident than she was just over a year earlier. Together we rode into the mountains along some great twisty roads. Watching her choose the proper lane position and lean properly into each corner was pure joy for me.

I look forward to many miles and smiles sharing my passion of motorcycling with my wife and, sometime in the future, with my son.

BMW has a great slogan, “Make Life A Ride.” I plan to live by that.

I’ve enjoyed Ron Davis’s columns and stories for a long time…he does what all the best motorcycle writing does: he makes you wonder why you aren’t out there riding your own bike, right now, except during the long Wisconsin winter, when his work simply helps you stay sane until spring.”

—Peter

Egan, Author of Leanings 1, 2 & 3

ISBN 978-1-890623-74-6, Softcover 252 pages, $19.99 SRP

Jason Weilnau is fortunate to have turned his love of motorcycles and helping people into his career. After 15 years as an Occupational Therapist, helping people through some of the toughest challenges in their life, he frequently found himself wanting to heal people more than the system or sometimes even the patients themselves allowed. While talking with the chief moto instructor at The U.S. Rider Academy at The BMW Performance Center in Greer, South Carolina,while at an event, he was invited to participate as a potential instructor. After four months of dedicated training Jason was able to become a certified instructor there.

Howling at the Wind

I’m not sure I get it. I mean I’ve always thought I did, but now, maybe it’s too late. I suddenly wonder if the whole BMW scene passed me by while I was in my lane. At the MOA National Rally, the scene was on full display. In fact, some elements were sitting around me at the Raider Rally dinner I put together each year.

My own journey started innocently enough. It’s a bit weird, but when I was a kid I tried to conceive of infinity—space going outward forever and my place in it. I got a headache trying to picture this. It became clear to me at that early age that somehow, I wanted to experience things rather than read about them, relying on the words of others that did not fully capture reality. Being one with space was clearly of interest to that ten-year-old.

My first foray in space, I suppose, was when I started running each day as a pre-teenager on a beat-up school track near my home. I can still hear the track surface crunching under my feet. Walk, then run, then gasp, then stop and repeat. Listen to the birds. Smell the air. I felt certain there was a zone and that I could get to it and escape. Nothing digital about it. You were simultaneously with the wind and part of it as it, gasp, went through you. I am guessing that ultimately led me to wanting to be one with a fast motorcycle able to launch me to zones I could not experience on foot. Maybe that’s it.

When I got into my 20s I got schooled on bikes as a result of I blowing up a beat-up car going the 1,000 miles to Baltimore. That led me to buy my roommate’s sister’s Honda Dream with the knurled oil plug (meaning it never came out which meant the oil had never been changed). Eventually, I ended up at Motor Sport Center where they were selling Kawasakis and got to know the family who ran it and who stayed my lifelong friends. Somehow, they got me on a “dirt bike” running hare scrambles. I

sucked.

Living in the city I never could practice, and after one race through a wooded muddy section and over a stream, the mud killed my sprocket carrier bearing, and the chain came off. At least I was not alone as others had a similar fate. The organizers winched us out and got us back to base. That was it for me and ever afterward. I never understood the love of dirt. My only success back then was one event on a dirt oval where the course ran into the infield and then back onto the track. In that event, I was smarter about changing counter shaft sprockets and got more speed than some others.

But I got a new taste of the dirt during June’s rally dinner. Jerry was there, riding all the way on his “tiny” 310 GS and gleefully talking about playing in the ADV pit where training courses were held. He also related how he got to the rally by spending days on Backcountry Discovery Routes trails. When on tarmac, Jerry knew of this particular web site specializing in finding the curviest roads.

I wanted to call him the Dirty Raider and realized there was a whole world I missed because I had given up dirt too soon. I pictured myself as one with that tiny machine, flicking and bouncing through the terrain. Maybe he should be called mountain goat—one with the bike and the terrain and in a fly-over-it-all zone.

The National got me thinking about what else I had missed in my glee to merge with the scene around me. There were old bikes there that looked like new, even better than new. I wondered if the owners kept the bikes on display in their living room. Did they treat them the way I treat my dogs? Touching them each day and knowing with a simple look if something was wrong with them?

The bike display resonated with me in part because after my dirt bike experiment, I had a Slash 2 with its Earles Fork leading-link front suspension. It moved

you down the road in a gentle wave of motion like no other, but I let the bike go as it was old and slow and shoe brakes had given way to discs and other updates. But I regret now that I had not kept it. Some folks can relive or imagine anew the experience these bikes of each era created while marveling at their technical details. Not being a technical nerd, I was more in awe of their paint jobs. I finally got it, as to why folks collect them.

As you can no doubt see, I am trying to sort out my addiction and understand it by coming to grips with others and their connection to bikes in general and BMWs in particular. Why do all that they can to keep them alive and themselves alive so they can ride them? Then at the dinner table I hear this from Ed and Linda: “There is no better way to see another country than by riding a motorcycle,” followed by comments about Norway and Africa and other locales they have visited two-up via tour companies and their rented bikes.

I realize that in their case, it is a shared experience, and I appreciate that even more after dinner when I see the ease with which they take off two-up and they lean into the left turn out of the stop light. They are both in their happy place.

That gets me wondering about the solo crowd. At one time that included me, but not really. There is solo like the faux solo riding adventuring touring crowd with off-road bikes that never really go off-road, and then there are those of us who like a shared extreme touring ride experience. But I digress, as at the table was Jesse, who is a track day guy.

I tried a track day once up in Canada at the National held there. I could not get over the fear of dropping my bike in a corner. As fate would have it, while riding back to the rally I got hit by a guy racing a stolen car. I decided after the internal bleeding finally stopped and they rebuilt my right hand, that I was done with track

days.

But three of my guys have track-specific bikes in addition to their road bikes. The nearest I have come to experiencing the joy of gears and braking in sync with turns and apexes carved perfectly was when Susan Galpin attempted to demo for me what my touring bike could do with me on the back.

The scene was her class on conquering corners before they conquer you. There is a picture of me kissing the ground when we got back to base area. To this day on great technical roads, I know which gear goes with which rated corner speed. But I also have an inkling of what it must be like to be totally in tune with the machine. You are the flow. I wonder if sometimes it feels like the road is coming to you and not vice versa. That would be cool. I wish it could be me just once.

I rolled back alone from the National wishing I was with the riders leaving on the annual RST adventure ride. Five RST riders left the rally on Saturday and went to Ocean City, Maryland, intending to leave there on Sunday and ride cross country on old US 50 to Sacramento and then back. Dale would be coming out of Mexico to meet them in Kansas. Then each of them would go home by different routes. For the first time, I am not along on a major Raider Ride.

But I kinda sorta am. It is a bit of a chore figuring out the REAL US 50 as it does get a bit tricky in some towns. That had to be accounted for and .GPX files created, and that, in turn, led to some errors, as routing tools can make a straight line where US 50 does not. So, I had a role in creating the routing, and over the years, I have been in the areas they are riding so could envision chunks of it. I asked the guys to take pictures, and I managed to catch two of them at their hotel as they left. To my surprise, I started to tear up while wishing them a great and safe ride.

They will have shared experiences.

They will ride fast in technical sections and flow in others. They will learn to “stick and pick” to get the group of five through traffic. They will learn the personalities of the new guys. They will leave any issues that beset them pre-ride behind as they flow into the horizon until they eventually stop for a cold one at end of day. I cannot wait to hear about what they encounter.

I am now, it seems, a pack animal. Like my dogs I like to run fast in a group and play along the way. But not today. Sorry if I missed you at the National. See you down the road.

Dancin’ Dave Cwi is a Life Member of the MOA as well as a Premier Member of the Iron Butt Association. He’s owned every series of BMW motorcycle from the Slash 2 to the modern RT, and has burned out his wife, who once loved motorcycling but sold her bikes after two trips with Dave. He pays for his riding addiction via marketing stints, including work in powersports. You will see him down the road.

DAVID CWI #28490

10,000 CURVES

The idea it takes 10,000 hours of practice to achieve expert status was popularized in Malcolm Gladwell’s bestselling book, Outliers: The Story of Success. It’s a misleading oversimplification to reduce his message to this one element, but he highlights the absolute necessity of long-term immersion in an endeavor to become a virtuoso, even for people with extraordinary talent and all sorts of other converging advantages.

During my recent tour with IMTBike (see “Trip of a Lifetime,” July Owners News), we spent ten of our 13 days riding the sinewy rural roads of Central Spain, the Portuguese coast and multiple mountain ranges in between three “rest days” which allowed exploration of major cities on foot. Many stretches involved non-stop cornering; curves of every variety were connected to each other without any straights. Tortuously tight switchbacks, endless S-curves with increasing and decreasing radii, and long, lazy sweepers, were all laid out over equally diverse changes in elevation; imagine a rollercoaster ride that lasts for hours. I couldn’t possibly keep count, but I have no doubt we averaged well over a thousand corners per riding day.

For comparison, Deal’s Gap (US 129 on the Tennessee/North Carolina border, a.k.a. “Tail of the Dragon”) is in my backyard. Its 318 corners in 11 miles can be traversed at a sedate pace in under half an hour. It only takes a few passes to reach the thousand-curve tally in about 90 minutes, stamina permitting. The IMTBike tour regularly had us on roads more densely packed with corners than Deal’s Gap, and we rode them briskly all day, day after day. An estimate of 10,000 total tour curves would be extremely

conservative. Obviously, we didn’t spend 10,000 hours riding, but there’s no question we gained substantial experience cornering a motorcycle. We’re all definitely closer to expert-level proficiency, right?

Well, probably.

One of the caveats in Gladwell’s book is the additional requirement of a certain quality of time. It’s critically important for the pursuit of skill to include accurate guidance and deliberate effort toward the right goals. Practice doesn’t make perfect, it just makes permanent. As Vince

our guides and peers offered helpful tips upon request, and we were always able to watch each other’s approach and learn from direct observation. I expected to gain knowledge about geography, history, culture and ancient architecture, but it hadn’t occurred to me this trip would contain so much education about riding, itself.

Once it registered, I was determined to extract as much as possible from this dimension of the tour. I studied each rider I followed (all of them, many times over during the two weeks involved), watching their lines, shifting and braking points, use of engine braking or actual brakes, body positioning, and anything else visible from behind. I also pulled up memory files from various training experiences in my past, recalling didactic portions of track schools, personalized input from riding coaches, and technique descriptions from books and videos.

Lombardi once suggested, only perfect practice makes perfect. It’s quite possible—in fact it’s probably most prevalent—for people to practice the wrong techniques and cement them in place with lots of misguided repetition (whether done deliberately or simply as a matter of habit). Just consider the lousy performance of most drivers and how many years they’ve spent “mastering” their art. Given the good riding technique displayed by my fellow tour participants, I’m sure they all wore in deeper grooves of corner attack strategy and muscle memory that will serve them quite well going forward. While we didn’t receive any formal instruction as part of the tour,

While these had plenty of overlap, they also contained significant differences. The multitude of corners available for experimentation allowed me to pick an approach (e.g., trail-braking a la Jim Ford) and test it for an extended period, trying my best to faithfully execute the selected method and assess its strengths and weaknesses only after I’d demonstrated some ability to implement it consistently in a wide variety of situations. While the racetrack offers one kind of laboratory for applying tactics repeatedly and systematically in a fixed setting, a day of constantly changing demands provides illumination from a different angle. Both can be extremely valuable, but the additional factor of riding so many days back-to-back took learning to a whole new level on the tour.

I certainly felt like a better rider by the time I left Europe, but I got independent

confirmation of this when one of my most adept riding buddies spontaneously commented on my increased smoothness and speed through the twisties back home. I also have new experiential reference points for comparison in my own self-assessment. Two aspects have stood out so far. First, the profound power of quantity time is vividly salient. Those levels of confidence and competence to which I became accustomed on tour have been impossible to sustain with my typical pattern of weekly rides. Anyone who has ever been devoted to a program of regular exercise knows the shockingly precipitous losses that follow even brief lapses in training. Sadly, the same principle applies to riding, although the contrast isn’t apparent without sustained periods of consistently frequent investment as benchmarks. It’s not that I’ve lost all the gains I made on tour, but some decay has definitely been apparent, even as soon as a single week after my return. Conversely, an all-day ride now delivers a more noticeable recharging of those benefits; I recognize how much more I feel like I did on the tour after racking up continuous hours in the saddle.

Secondly, there’s the phenomenon of “becoming one with the bike.” I mainly ride an R 1250 RS at home, but I chose the GS version as my tour mount out of curiosity and in response to several others’ recommendations. Although I felt surprisingly at home on this machine within the tour’s first hour (!), I was very deeply bonded with it by the end of two weeks. It’s not an exaggeration to say I felt more in-tune with my borrowed Gelände/Straße than any other bike I’ve ever ridden, even those I’ve owned for many years. The concentration of saddle time wasn’t the only reason for this, as evidenced by how quickly I felt at home on the GS, but there’s no question our connection benefited tremendously from the sheer volume of uninterrupted time

Great to see so many customers in Doswell, VA at the recent BMW MOA Rally. Looking forward to seeing everyone again at next year’s Rally in Redmond, OR!

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spent negotiating a vast array of riding conditions together. I have loved my RS dearly, more than any motorcycle in my 30-some bike history. Yet returning to it has been undeniably disappointing. How much of this is superiority of the other bike’s design? Or a matter of personal fit? Or a function of continuous time spent riding one and not the other?

It remains to be seen how much of my affection for the RS can be restored. After our demoralizing first afternoon reunited, I’ve been encouraged by how much better it has felt at the end of several longer outings. I also remember how much more in-sync with the RS I felt after my one prior week-long trip on it. Perhaps I’d be just as enthralled with the RennSport as I was with the GS if I could take it out for another two weeks of ecstatic riding! Conversely, I might be crushed by regret if I endured the financial pain of replacing my RS with a

GS, only to find the latter’s allure greatly diminished by my limited time to ride it. As a kindness to my wallet, and because I know I can be overly impulsive about such things, I’ll log more hours on my RS before trading – perhaps an extended “staycation” spent running back and forth on Deal’s Gap every day until I’ve hit the 10,000-curve mark within a compressed timeframe. How much more might I appreciate about the RS with enough repetition?

If you’re considering the potential value of a lengthy tour—especially a guided one wherein you can focus on riding and needn’t worry about routes, arrangements, or mechanical issues— keep in mind the fantastic opportunity for skill development such an adventure includes at no extra charge. For me, it was an unexpected game-changer. I just hope it doesn’t necessitate an unexpected bike change, too.

Mark Barnes is a clinical psychologist and motojournalist. To read more of his writings, check out his book Why We Ride: A Psychologist Explains the Motorcyclist’s Mind and the Love Affair Between Rider, Bike and Road, currently available in paperback through Amazon and other retailers.

Also check out Mark’s podcast version of The Ride Inside, with essays and interviews, available through your favorite podcast app or online at BMWOwnersNews.com.

This scenic 355-mile loop weaves together rugged two-track with some of the most incredible pavement you’ll ever ride. Ranging from wide-open prairies to dense aspen forests and filled with historical points of interest and abundant wildlife, the Black Hills BDR-X offers a perfect introduction to what riding BDR is all about.

Welcome our newest MOA members

Ricardo Carlini Cliffside Park, NJ

Kelly Perrin Abbotsford, BC

James Abbott Pickering. ON

Lowell Abney Pensacola, FL

Gary Adams Santa Fe, NM

Victor Adascalitei Vaudreuil-Dorion, QC

Martin Albert Bensenville, IL

Tiago Almeida Coral Springs, FL

Eduardo Alvarez Lake Villa, IL

Robert Ameo Warren, NJ

Kathy Anderson Pilot, VA

William Anderson Dedham, ME

Thomas Andrejcak Columbus, OH

Jerra Antonovic Lacombe, LA

Anthony Aris Freeport, IL

Riley Armstrong Middleton, WI

Matt Ash Listowel, ON

Dale Aucoin Livingston, LA

Patrick Ault Newark, OH

David Ayer Kittery Point, ME

Jon Bailey APO, AE

David Baker Murfreesboro, TN

Emily Baker Thornton, CO

Anes Balic Denver, CO

Jean Yves Bari Rouyn-Noranda, QC

Karl Barner Marcellus, NY

Pat Barrigar Clarkston, MI

Joseph Bartlett Opelika, AL

Grant Bassett Rochester Hills, MI

Andrew Bauer Doylestown, PA

David Bearden Gambrills, MD

Nathan Beasley Castle Rock, CO

Gary Benham Buffalo, NY

Graham Bennett Cambridge, ON

Eric Bensen Orlando, FL

Greg Benson Pell City, AL

Mike Berlinger Prosper, TX

Tony Berman Clearwater, FL

Ryan Bernardo Reno, NV

Marlon Bernstein Ringoes, NJ

Cathy Bissett Boalsburg, PA

Jim Black Vero Beach, FL

Bryan Blades Panama City Beach, FL

Rocky Bloesser Colorado Springs, CO

Jonathan Bloodworth Hendersonville, TN

Richard Boling Richmond, IL

Dietrich Bonawitz Rochester Hills, MI

Joan Bonilla Rockville, MD

Shelvin Booher Franklin, KY

Steve Botelho Middleboro, MA

Patrick Boucher Sherbrooke, QC

Stanley Bourdon Augusta, WI

Travis Boutwell Cataula, GA

Kenneth Boyer Hartselle, AL

Angela Bozinov Cypress, TX

James Branch Sims, NC

Ben Brody Southampton, MA

Todd Brooks Charlotte Hall, MD

Patrick Brooks Towson, MD

Scott Brown Williamsburg, OH

Gregory Buckley Portage La Prairie, MB

G Bunch Newnan, GA

Brian Burdick Kinta. OK

Matthew Burlison Clawson, MI

Tom Byron Arlington, VA

Joel Cain Saint Paris, OH

John Calhoun Issaquah, WA

Arturo Campero Gonzalez Greensboro, NC

Sam Carne Tiverton, DEV

William Carr Lynn Haven, FL

Juan Carrasco Oakland Park, FL

Carol Castellani Kenmore, WA

Christopher Castillo Mary Ester, FL

Roland Cavanagh Napa, CA

Craig Cella Loganton, PA

Ramya Chalamalla Morton, IL

Oleksandr Chernyshev Bartlett, IL

Dan Chiesa Bridgeville, PA

Courtney Churry Millersport, OH

Bryan Clark Casa Grande, AZ

Donal Cline Chesterfield, IN

Bill Collyer Hermitage, TN

Amy Comstock Chicago, IL

Aimee Conklin Penn Yan, NY

Steven Consolo East Lyme, CT

Kyle Cook Norman, OK

Scott Cornelius Baker, FL

David Courtney Algonquin, IL

Robert Craft Lusby, MD

Kristen Craft Lusby, MD

Christopher Crews Ava, MO

Martin Crow Los Alamos, NM

Darren Curl Castle Rock, CO

Daniel Curry Johnstown, CO

Bodhi D Salem, OR

Christian Daniels King George, VA

Peter Danielson Cape Coral, FL

Benton Daugherty Richmond, VA

Mike Daum Palos Verdes Estates, CA

Rusty David Stephens City, VA

Edward Day Rockville, MD

David Deep ASPEN, CO

Richard Delarosa Sun Prairie, WI

Ralph DeLuco Simsbury, CT

Blake Despain Taylorsville, UT

James Dickey Middleton, WI

Charli Dobrowski Janesville, WI

Humberto Dovalina Eagle Pass, TX

Jorg Dronia Reston, VA

Al Dupuy Camp Verde, AZ

Shavone Earls Fairfield, AL

Bjorn Edstrom Chicago, IL

Ken Edwards Palo Alto, CA

Timothy Emery Cheyenne, WY

Yesenia Esparza Moorpark, CA

Guadalupe Esquivel Chicago Heights, IL

Scott Evans Denver, CO

David Fairman Boulder, CO

Robert Falvey Charlestown, RI

Michael Farley Fayetteville, AR

Jason Farley Nolensville, TN

Clay Farnet New Orleans, LA

James Feaster Palmer, AK

Jeffrey Fell Johnsburg, IL

Al Ferguson Phoenix, AZ

Mark Fincham Ashburn, VA

Thomas Fink Homosassa, FL

Charles Fisher West Seneca, NY

Dan Fiskum Rockford, MN

James Fletcher Glencoe, IL

Eric Flynn Gettysburg, PA

Jay Fogleman Carolina, RI

Steven Foiles Seattle, WA

Steve Foster Moore, OK

Mamie Frank Spotsylvania, VA

Mark Galek Westminster, CO

Wayne Gaulzetti Port St Lucie, FL

John Gaydos Fall River, WI

Jenna Gayhart Buffalo Grove, IL

Mitch Geller Carp, ON

Robert Gerlach Greensburg, PA

Jon Geweke Maryville, TN

Jennifer Giannunzio Manistique, MI

Brian Good Sechelt, BC

Tina Goodman Wolcott, NY

Greg Gormley Mount Pleasant, SC

Stephen Goss Denver, CO

Yvonne Gray Highlands Ranch, CO

Michael Grosso Kankakee, IL

Gabriel Gutierrez Glendale Heights, IL

Michael Haas Richmond, VA

Max Haerter Granby, CT

Timothy Haight Los Alamos, NM

Brian Hanson Eden Prairie, MN

Bill Hantjis Pelzer, SC

Gregory Harper Fort Worth, TX

Darin Hawkins Schaumburg, IL

Kevin Hayes Danville, VA

Rory Heijnen Milwaukee, WI

Robert Henry Atlant, GA

Nathan Henry Batavia, IL

John Henry Arlington, TX

Jenella Herring Elgin, TX

Alex Higgins Augusta , GA

Kent Hightower La Crosse, VA

Jesse Hill Fairfax, VA

Dwayne Hillier Kirkfield, ON

Larry Hixson Warrenton, VA

Nathan Hobbs Hanahan, SC

Andrew Hoffman Rixeyville, VA

Daniel Hong Centreville, VA

Stephen Houk Lewis Center, OH

Ed Howell Lebanon, IN

Lee Hudson Broomfield, CO

Julie Humpal Rockford, IL

Tom Humpal Rockford, IL

Dale Huston Peyton, CO

Michael Hutchinson Deforest, WI

Matt Ivanoff Denver, CO

Jerry Jackson Upper Black Eddy, PA

Jeff Jackson Smiths Station, AL

Haley Jacques Lathrup Village, MI

Frank Jarrell Marietta, GA

Patrick Jazwiecki Highland, WI

Kristian Jennings Monterey, VA

Charles Jennings Sandwich, IL

Jack Jensen Grangeville, ID

Peter Jensen Milton, VT

David Jobe Greensboro, NC

Peter Johnsen Hanna City, IL

Holly Johnson Round Hill, VA

John Johnson Naselle, WA

Bobby Johnston Moneta, VA

Sean Joyner Reston, VA

Erica Juert Surrey, BC

John Kahler Norwalk, CT

Paulius Kalniunas Lincolnshire, IL

Matt Kearns Kingman, AZ

James Keefover Morgantown, WV

Alexis Keenan Fredericksburg, VA

Jay Keh Stafford, VA

Kevin Kelley Springboro, OH

Robert Kelly Los Angeles, CA

Ahmed Khedr Winnipeg, MB

James Kieding Bay Village, OH

Pete Kiolbassa Lake In The Hills, IL

Doug Kirby Saint Louis, MO

Mark Kitchen Aurora, CO

Fabien Klimsza Vineland, NJ

Gene Knight Raeford, NC

Greg Knott Glenwood Springs, CO

Rich Knudson Lake Stevens, WA

Peter Kopper Englewood, CO

Slobodan Kovacevic Lake Zurich, IL

Timothy Krull Elmhurst, IL

Miroslav Kucera Des Plaines, IL

Rajan Kumar Jamaica, NY

Santosh Kumar Columbus, IN

Peter Kuttke Reston, VA

Hung-Chi Kwok Hampton Cove, AL

William La Belle Lake Lure, NC

Dhiraj Lamichhane Des Plaines, IL

James Lamont Spotsylvania, VA

Brian Landreth Kansas City, MO

Todd Larson Pensacola, FL

Loren Larson Crawford, CO

Todd Lau Saint Cloud, MN

Gerald LaValley Feeding Hills, MA

Mark Layten Downs, IL

Josh Lederman Davenport, IA

Charles Lee Germantown, TN

Mike Lescarbeau Minnetonka, MN

Eric Leung Snohomish, WA

Dennis Lew Columbia, MD

Roger Lewis Stow, OH

Timothy Litschgi Fairfax, VA

Mark Lomax Woodbridge, VA

David Long Medfield, MA

Bob Long Troutman, NC

Jeffrey Loso Bloomington, MN

Mark Ludwig Chesterfield, VA

Lucas Lundgren Minco, OK

Thomas Lynch Sanbornton, NH

Frederick MacKinnon Barss Corner, NS

Ian MacKinnon Leander, TX

Steve Mahl Fort Worth, TX

Emil Makin Gaffney, SC

James Malles Carol Stream, IL

Michael Maloney New York, NY

Gary Mankey Duncansville, PA

Kevin Maris Nederland, CO

Joao Marquez Naperville, IL

Jessica Martin Rincon, GA

Albert Martos Morton, IL

Richard Massic Livonia, MI

Ty Materson Vail, CO

Francisco Matheus Tega Cay, SC

Michael Mattern Lakewood, CO

Kurian Matthew Plainview, NY

Michael McCauley Richmond, VA

Danny McDonald Newport News, VA

John P Mcgrath Annapolis, MD

Arlen McMurray Englewood, CO

James McQuaid Weatherford, TX

Sotirios Menegas Phoenix, AZ

James Merchant Hoboken, NJ

Peter Meyer Allendale, NJ

“ I’m new to motorcycling but always wanted one. Looking forward to many adventures with my R 1250 GS and being connected to other like minded people through the MOA!”

– Andras Balassy #233119

sw miller Quinton, VA

Aaron Miller Qualicum Beach, BC

Brandon Miller Mapleton, UT

Pat Miser Lone Tree, CO

Leandro Monteiro Deerfield Beach, FL

Lucas Monteiro Littleton CO

Kenneth Mulac Brighton, CO

James Munroe Noonan, NB

Constantin Muradu Hoffman Estates, IL

Jack Murphy Cartersville, GA

Colin Murray Lebanon, NJ

Yehor Mykhaylov Arlington Heights, IL

Lawrence Nadel Buford, GA

William Nelson Kansas City, MO

Daniel Nemirsky Lamont, AB

Mark Newby Platte City, MO

Keith Nichols Chattanooga, TN

Jouni Niiranen Alpharetta, GA

Lisa Niner Fallston, MD

Susan North Madison, WI

Gregg Noud Albers, IL

Robert Novarino Brinnon, WA

Jim O’Neill Cedar Key, FL

James Obenshain Blanchard, OK

Eric Obrecht Norton Shores, MI

Chris Offutt Yuma, AZ

Shawn OGrady Osceola, IN

Alan Olson New London, MN

Kenneth Olson Prescott, AZ

David Painter Hamilton, OH

Joseph Pannell Fairfield, AL

Hitul Patel Mount Prospect, IL

Sotos Patistas King William, VA

Joseph Payne Charlotte, NC

Christopher Payne Denver, CO

Christy Payne Livingston, TN

Linda Pearce Rileyville, VA

Chris Peluso Cumming, GA

Mitchell Peronto Joliet, IL

Greg Peterson Vancouver, WA

Tedd Phillips Gold Beach, OR

Nathan Phillips Wooster, OH

Rade Pierce Conroe, TX

Virgil Pippens Stafford, VA

Andrei Pislari Bolingbrook, IL

Katherine Pogorzelski Parker, CO

Steve Powrie Bradenton, FL

Raul Pretto Somerset, NJ

Roger Pryor Roswell, GA

Sandev Purewal Oakville, ON

Milan Rakic Streamwood, IL

Joseph Ralph La Rue, OH

Joe Rednour London, KY

Michelle Reeves Memphis, TN

James Reiman Hawthorne, NY

Alan Rein Rodeo, NM

Tony Reinholz Bloomington, MN

Terry Reinholz Bloomington, MN

Dale Reisenbigler Morrison, IL

Jim Remer Mount Horeb, WI

Steve Renner Burlington, NC

Rafael Renteria Westminster, CO

Matt Rhoads Oxford, PA

Sandi Ringle Fremont, NE

John Ringle Fremont, NE

Christopher Robertson Camden, NC

Ian Robertson Camden, NC

Brandon Rock Evergreen, CO

William Roesener West Olive, MI

Steve Rogers Denver, CO

Dalton Rose Forest Grove, OR

Mike Rose Kingston, ON

Jeff Ross Knoxville, TN

Alex Rux Salem, OR

Karthik Sainath Lafayette, CA

Jeferson Salazar Silver Spring, MD

Jason Sams North Augusta, SC

Radames Santiago Deltona, FL

Jace Santner Pensacola, FL

Les Saunders Oshawa, ON

Michael Schaefer Princeton, IL

Peter Schallmoser Lake Barrington, IL

Michael Schaublin Rochester Hills, MI

Daniel Schexnayder Bradenton, FL

Jon Schuler Prescott, AZ

William T. Schwandt Waldorf, MD

John Sebastian Elmhurst, IL

Michael Seniuk Enfield, NS

Tom Shaffer Grampian, PA

Ally Shah Pittsburgh, PA

Kenneth Shanks Wrightsville Beach, NC

Vladyslav Shataliuk Island Lake, IL

Thomas Shimizu Des Plaines, IL

Dan Shyne Selkirk, NY

Andrii Sidlak Chicago, IL

Carla Sinclair Cranbrook, BC

Bikramjit Singh Delaware, OH

Leon Skinner Whitney Point, NY

Michael Slinkard Grand Junction, CO

Michael Smith Accokeek, MD

Patrick Smith Edmond, OK

John Smith Brown Deer, WI

Brenda Smith Aurora, CO

Dale Snead Media, PA

Dan Solomon Monterey, VA

James Solomon Ames, IA

Craig Somberg San Jose, CA

Justin Spitznogle Carmichaels, PA

Perry Sprachmann N Ridgeville, OH

Marc St. Denis Henderson, NV

Blaine Stahlman Castle Rock, CO

Philip Strauss Fallbrook, CA

Jeff Stump San Rafael, CA

David Sturgis Jacksonville, FL

Baljit Sull San Ramon, CA

Brett Swanson Wauwatosa, WI

Larry Tate Napanee, ON

William Taylor Sutton, MA

Dane Taylor Richmond, TX

Mark Theriault Windsor Junction, NS

Travis Thomas Oxford, PA

Darrel Thornberry Franklin, NC

Gary Tomolonius Collinsville, CT

Chris Towne Epping, NH

James Townley Vienna, VA

Charles Townsend Niagara Falls, NY

Sam Travis Oxford, IA

Frank Treece Naperville, IL

Todd Turner Mint Hill, NC

David Tuttle Aurora, CO

Andre Van Wyk Coquitlam, BC

Steve Vanderlinden Hillsborough, NC

Eric Vassar Norman, OK

Antonio Vernacchia Wall Township, NJ

Nick Videtich Fredericksburg, VA

Oscar Villarreal Waukegan, IL

David Vogelsberg South Weber, UT

Yefim Voloshin Skokie, IL

Elio Volpentesta Old Mill Creek, IL

Joshua Voorhis Fairplay, CO

Cody Voris Pleasanton, CA

Ventsislav Vragov Elk Grove Village, IL

Richard Wagner Woodstock, IL

Amber Walker Colorado Springs, CO

Deborah Walsh Hancock, ME

Chuck Walters Piketon, OH

Jared Wambaugh Browns Valley, CA

Charlie Waskey Lantana, TX

Stephen Wegener Batavia, IL

Eric Weiner Colorado Springs, CO

Matthew Weiser Waconia, MN

Bret Weiss Minneapolis, MN

Nicolas Weissberger Saint-Leonard, QC

Jeffrey weissman San Antonio, TX

Marko Westphal Herndon, VA

Joeri Weyenberg Weston, FL

Kirk Wheeler Benton, AR

Richard Williams Wilmington, NC

Daniel Wimer Garfield, AR

Oscar Winger Madison, WI

Erika Winn Everett, WA

Gary Witbeck Savannah, GA

Anthony Wocken Saint Paul, MN

Ryan Wolfe Milford, MI

William Woodman Kenosha, WI

Katie Wooley Saint Petersburg, FL

Tommy Wyatt Warsaw, VA

Greg Zapp Brambleton, VA

Gerry Zell Brookhaven, PA

Jack Zemp Ashland, VA

Find an Event near You

8/1/2023 – 8/4/2023

THE GREAT EASTERN ADVENTURE

Bishop’s Falls, Newfoundland & Labrador moores@horizonsunlimited.com

8/4/2023 – 8/6/2023

MOA GETAWAY AT VALLEY FORGE King of Prussia, Pennsylvania membership@bmwmoa.org

8/4/2023 – 8/7/2023

INTERNATIONAL ROLLING BROCOLLI Vassar, Michigan J. J. Dostal 810-624-5987

8/11/2023 – 8/12/2023

30TH BLUE BUTT RALLY Virginia City, Nevada bluebuttrally@gmail.com

8/11/2023 – 8/14/2023

KASLO CAMP-N-RIDE

Kaslo, British Columbia events@valleybmwriders.com

8/17/2023 – 8/19/2023

MIKE MCPEAK MEMORIAL RALY Village of Nakusp, British Columbia milkemcpeakrally@hotmail.com

8/17/2023 – 8/19/2023

25TH ANNUAL BEARTOOTH BEEMERS RENDEZVOUS Red Lodge, Montana registrar@beartoothbeemers.org

8/17/2023 – 8/20/2023

57TH ANNUAL 4WINDS BMW RALLY Fairmont City, Pennsylvania jmarnell@mac.com

8/19/2023 – 8/20/2023

MS RIVER ROAD RUN Monticello, Minnesota lee@hamlineconstruction.com

8/25/2023 – 8/27/2023

9TH HOPEWELL ROAD RALLY Athens, Ohio samrbooth@yahoo.com

8/26/2023 to 8/27/2023

CAMPOUT AT BADGER FLATS Lakeshore, California tourcaptain@bmwnorcal.org

9/1/2023 to 9/4/2023

RANGE OF LIGHT GYPSY TOUR Colusa, California tourcaptain@bmwnorcal.org

9/1/2023 to 9/4/2023

THREE FLAGS CLASSIC Begins in Puerto Peñasco, Mexico and Ends in Calgary, Canada emailmotopippi@gmail.com

9/6/2023 to 9/10/2023

10TH ANNUAL WAILIN’ WAYNE WEEKEND Nelsonville, Ohio chad@bmwmoa.org

9/7/2023 to 9/10/2023

MIDWAY CAMP-N-RIDE Midway, British Columbia events@valleybmwriders.com

9/8/2023 – 9/10/2023

52ND ANNUAL WISCONSIN DELLS RALLY

Wisconsin Dells, Wisconsin barnrazer@yahoo.com

9/8/2023 – 9/10/2023

KENTUCKY STATE BMW RALLY Pineville, Kentucky prorepoms@aol.com

9/8/2023 – 9/10/2023

TUG HILL TURNOUT Lowville, New York camdengroup@icloud.com

9/14/2023 – 9/17/2023

CRUISIN’ CUSTER RALLY Challis, Idaho chad@bmwmoa.org

9/21/2023 – 9/24/2023

2023 PURE STODGE IOWA RALLY Elkader, Iowa pstarally@gmail.com

9/21/2023 – 9/24/2023

3RD ANNUAL LAUREL HIGHLANDS WEEKEND SPONSORED BY THE BMW MOA Somerset, Pennsylvania gsjay@kaplitz.com

9/22/2023 – 9/24/2023

19TH THUNDER MOUNTAIN RENDEZVOUS Hotchkiss, Colorado aesurvey@aol.com

9/22/2023 – 9/24/2023

36TH ANNUAL HOOSIER BEEMER RALLY North Vernon, Indiana k12lts@gmail.com

9/28/2023 – 10/1/2023

LAST CHANCE TO CAMP-N-RIDE Oroville, Washington events@valleybmwriders.com

9/28/2023 – 10/1/2023

THRILLS IN THE HILLS, TEXAS HOEDOWN Kerrville, Texas chad@bmwmoa.org

9/29/2023 – 10/1/2023

“BACK TO JAMAICA” CAMPOUT Jamaica, Vermont kz1000@hotmail.com

9/29/2023 – 10/1/2023

41ST ANNUAL LAST CHANCE RALLY Wading River, New Jersey pjliskojr@gmail.com

9/29/2023 – 10/1/2023

CENTRAL OKLAHOMA BMW ROAD RIDERS ANNUAL CAMPOUT Talihina, Oklahoma tburull@hotmail.com

For complete details on any event listed, please visit bmwmoa.org and click on the Rallies & Events tab

Mike McPeak Memorial Rally

57th Annual Rally

Aug 18 – 20, 2023

America’s longest running BMW rally

Escape to the scenic western PA countryside and enjoy a relaxing time that will remind you of rallies from long ago. Great Friends, Good Food, and the Best Stories!

Early arrivals and all bike brands welcome.

Sat. catered dinner, on-site food concession, paved and adventure rides, local attractions, field games, prizes, seminars, movies, demo rides, bonfire, 2 nights tent camping under large shade trees, open grass or indoor covered shelters, RV spaces, free coffee and drinks, Sun. morning donuts.

Pre-register $45 – Gate $55 • Youth pre-register $20 – Gate $30

www.4WindsBMW.org

Sponsored By

For more information, contact: 4WindsBMW@comcast.net or Joe.Burns@bmwmoa.org

BMW Motorcycle Owner s of Vermont 39th Annual Green Mountain R ally

September 8-10, 2023

Registration opens June 1

Come join us to carve the sweepers and streamside shaded twisties of Vermont. Enjoy cool mountain air as you soak up music from Snake Mountain Bluegrass Friday night and Vermont Blues Saturday.. Dine comfortably on home-cooked meals in the screened hall or fire-lit pavilion. Self-guided gap rides and tons of gravel roads in and near national forest. Free hot showers, bonfire, and great rally prizes from our sponsors: Max BMW Motorcycles, Aerostich, BMW MOA, and BMW RA

F or More Inf ormation email: greenmtnrally@gmail.com

Jim Goss, Co-Chair jsgoss@roadrunner.com

Erin Ackerman-Leist; Co-Chair

Regi strati on informati on a vailable at https://bmwmov.club

B MW Motor cy cle Owners of Vermo nt #1 15

WHEN & WHERE

10/6/2023 – 10/8/2023

BMW MOTORRAD DAYS AMERICAS 2023

Leeds, Alabama

bmwmotorcycles.com/en/ experience/100years

10/9/2023 – 10/13/2023

FALL SMOKY MOUNTAIN MAGIC TOUR

Fontana Dam, North Carolina becky.smith@bmwmoa.org

10/13/2023 – 10/15/2023

48TH FALLING LEAF RALLY

Steelville, Missouri rally-coordinator@gatewayriders.com

10/28/2023 – 10/29/2023

OCTOBERFEST

Manchaster, California tourcaptain@bmwnorcal.org

11/3/2023 – 11/5/2023

53RD SOUTH-CENTRAL BMW OWNERS REUNION

Fayetteville, Texas vp@bmwclubofhouston.com

2024

4/14/2024 – 4/28/2024

IMTBIKE CELEBRATION TOUR OF SPAIN FOR BMW MOA MEMBERS

Madrid, Spain tours@imtbike.com

6/13/2024 – 6/16/2024

RIDIN’ TO REDMOND NATIONAL RALLY Redmond, Oregon membership@bmwmoa.org

IMTBIKE CELEBRATION TOUR OF SPAIN FOR BMW MOA MEMBERS

This motorcycle tour combines IMTBike’s “Best All Round” Castles & Mountains Tour with Portugal, a little country with a big heart!  Portugal never ceases to impress with its warm welcoming people, fertile lands and seafood rich coast. There are plenty of mountain twisties and sweepers all throughout this motorcycle tour through Central Spain and Portugal. In addition to great riding this tour boasts stunning historical cities like Toledo, Avila, Lisbon, Porto, Óbidos and Cuenca. Tour prices start at $5,645 Euros, and space is extremely limited. Visit imtbike.com/tours for more details and registration.

EDITORIAL

Managing Editor BILL WIEGAND | bill@bmwmoa.org

Art Director KARIN HALKER | karin@bmwmoa.org

Digital Media Editor WES FLEMING | wes@bmwmoa.org

Associate Editor RON DAVIS

A ssociate Editor JOSE ABILES

CONTRIBUTORS

Terence Hamill, Harry Soloman, Daryll Henrich, Mike Grantham, Peter Krenn, Mike LoGalbo, Terry South, Brian Wester, Mark Barnes, Steven Jacobs, Ron Davis, Greg Sample, Wes Fleming, Dustin Silvey, James Bellerjeau, Sara Uhlenbrock-Heath, Jason Weilnau, David Cwi and Paul Betthauser

SALES & MARKETING MEMBER SERVICES

Advertising Director CHRIS HUGHES | chris@bmwmoa.org

Business Development Director CHAD WARNER | chad@bmwmoa.org

Executive Director TED MOYER | ted@bmwmoa.org

Membership Associate TONYA MCMEANS | tonya@bmwmoa.org

Digital Marketing Manager RAY TUBBS | ray@bmwmoa.org

Membership Manager PAULA FITZER | paula.fitzer@bmwmoa.org

Chief Operating Officer BECKY SMITH | becky.smith@bmwmoa.org

MEMBERSHIP

BMW MOA Headquarters 2350 Hwy. 101 South, Greer, SC 29651 (864) 438-0962

Membership in the BMW Motorcycle Owners of America is open to all riders, regardless of brand affiliation. Although we are united by the BMW marque, adventure-minded motorcyclists will find a home here. Join today by visiting bmwmoa.org or call one of our friendly membership associates at 864-438-0962. BMWMOA.ORG

BMW ON (ISSN:1080-5729) (USPS: 735-590) (BMW Owners News) is published monthly by BMW Motorcycle Owners of America Inc., 2350 Hwy 101 South, Greer, SC 29651. Periodicals postage paid at Pewaukee, Wisconsin and additional mailing offices. Opinions and positions stated in materials/articles herein are those of the authors and not by the fact of publication necessarily those of BMW MOA; publication of advertising material is not an endorsement by BMW MOA of the advertised product or service. The material is presented as information for the reader. BMW MOA does not perform independent research on submitted articles or advertising.

POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO BMW ON, 2350 Hwy 101 South, Greer, SC 29651 ©2023 by BMW Motorcycle Owners of America Inc. All information furnished herein is provided by and for the members of BMW Motorcycle Owners of America, Inc. Unless otherwise stated, none of the information (including technical material) printed herein necessarily bears endorsement or approval by BMW MOA, BMW NA, the factory or the editors. The editors and publisher cannot be held liable for its accuracy. Printed in the USA. Volume 53, Number 8

Anticipation

A recently paved section of road between US 40 and US 6 southeast of Heber City, Utah, promises a fantastic ride.

Photo by Paul Betthauser #63874

“

I joined specifically, to connect with the BMW Motorrad community. I want to know when events are happening, what is happening with old and new hardware, places to ride and share the experiences of others, knowledge of hardware, riding places and techniques.”

– John Sweeney #232537

Do you know someone who would like to join?

Scan the code and give them their first year of membership free.

Enter the activation code 50YRSON.

* First year free membership offer available to new MOA members only.