BMW Owners News for September 2023

We’re happy to answer every one, because we know that’s important to you.

Our parts staff fulfills orders every day from within our service department, not from a warehouse or remote call center. This means if you ever have a question, you can count on talking with a talented professional who works on and around BMW Motorycles all the time. With an unparalleled inventory and dedicated parts staff that ships orders 6 days a week, MAX BMW is here to make ordering parts for your motorcycle convenient and easy!

Shop our parts catalog at www.maxbmw.com Questions? Call us at 203-740-1270 or send an e-mail to francis@maxbmw.com

When you carry 45,000 parts, you get a million questions.

40 THE 2023 ISLE OF MAN TT

BY PAUL PHILLIPS #89196

48

THE RITE OF PASSAGE, PART 3

BY DUSTIN SILVEY #224778 AND JANEL SILVEY #226338

IN THIS ISSUE

4 | HEADLIGHT We Want You! by Bill Wiegand

8 | FROM THE BOARD Treasured Experiences by Phil Stalboerger

10 | POSTCARDS FROM THE ROAD

12 | RIDER TO RIDER Letters from our Members

14 | NEWS Win the Bike of Your Dreams with the MOA Foundation’s “One Ticket & You Pick It” Fundraiser, Rev It Up on an Appalachian Backroad, BMW Motorrad Releases ConnectedRide Smartglasses, Rally Raid-inspired design meets leading Road Tire technology, Touring the BMW Zentrum Museum, U.S. GS Trophy Qualifier Dates Announced.

24 | GEAR Redverz’s Limited Edition Atacama Expedition Tent by Ron Davis

28 | GEAR Camp Chairs

30 | GEAR Klim’s Krios Pro Helmet, Part 2 and Switchback Cargo Pants by Ron Davis

56 TIME TRAVELERS

BY ROBERT MCISAAC #10494

34 | GEAR Airhead 247 Survivor Series, David Duke’s ’73 Grenada Red R 75/5 by Daren Dortin

36 | TORQUE OF THE MATTER Q&A: Should I Buy a Low Mileage Police Bike by Wes Fleming

60 | SHINY SIDE UP Only on a Bike, Part 3 by Ron Davis

62 | JACK THE RIEPE A Perfectly Believable Story with a Happy Ending by Jack Riepe

68 | THE RIDE INSIDE Cheap Thrills by Mark Barnes

72 | Welcome our Newest MOA Members

76 | WHEN AND WHERE Rally listings

79 | ADVERTISING INDEX

80 | TAILIGHT

ON THE COVER Aboard his 2023 BMW M 1000 RR, 51-year-old Michael Rutter averages more than 125 mph riding the challenging Isle of Man TT course. Photo by Paul Phillips #189196

WE WANT YOU!

There’s a small poster on my office wall depicting a commanding image of Uncle Sam pointing his finger, with the caption, “I Want You for the U.S. Army.” I’m sure everyone has seen the poster, initially used as an Army recruiting tool before U.S. involvement in World War I.

While I believe I’ve been blessed with the honor of working with a great team of dedicated and passionate colleagues, I know the greater blessing is the collaboration I enjoy each month working on BMW Owners News with our member contributors. Just as the MOA is an organization built upon the backs of selfless volunteers offering their time and talent for nothing more than the satisfaction of knowing their work made a difference, BMW Owners News is no different. Each month, it’s the work of volunteer writers and photographers that grace these pages for all of us to enjoy.

As a poor and hungry college student, I still vividly remember the excitement I felt the first time I saw my name published with a story and photographs I sent to Cycle News. While I wasn’t racing anymore, many friends were, and as a journalism student looking to build a portfolio and remain involved in the sport I loved, I traveled Wisconsin and Upper Michigan covering motocross within the AMA’s District 16. As exciting as seeing my name printed in Cycle News was, the $25 check I’d receive a few weeks after each article was published was equally compelling. Though the check didn’t cover my gas, food and film expenses, seeing my work published was payment enough. I think the work of the writers and photographers we publish in BMW Owners News each month feel a similar sentiment. It’s not about the money, but it’s sharing a story or photograph with a group of BMW motorcycle enthusiasts we’re all connected to through our love of riding BMW motorcycles.

The mission of BMW Owners News is to publish the stories of everyday BMW riders searching for their own version of adventure. Perhaps it’s a trip across their state or an epic ride across several continents. Maybe it’s a tale of a trip gone awry, the rebuilding of a classic bike or a review of a product fellow members would enjoy. We aim to share these stories and photographs with our BMW-riding sisters and brothers.

Glancing back at the poster on the wall, the words “I Want You” are screaming at me. If I squint a little, I can almost see a helmeted Uncle Sam commanding, “BMW Owners News Wants You!”

The BMW MOA membership is a fantastic resource, and our typical BMW rider is well-educated, successful, hardworking, articulate and opinionated. We all come from different walks of life, travel widely and enjoy helping other BMW riders whenever possible. If I’ve learned anything from all of the BMW MOA events I’ve attended, it’s that we’ve all also got a good story and don’t mind sharing it.

Contributors to BMW Owners News don’t have to be published writers or photographers, just members with a story or photograph they’d like to share. I know writing can be intimidating and may not come easy for all of us. The good news is we’re here to help and can help guide our members interested in contributing through the process.

Do you have a great photo or an idea for a story you’d like to share with us but don’t know how to proceed? If so, email me at bill@bmwmoa.org, and I would be happy to work with you to begin the process.

Unfortunately, your contribution will not make you rich monetarily. Instead, it’ll fill you with the pleasure and joy of knowing you’ve made a difference for the members of the BMW Motorcycle Owners of America.

I look forward to hearing from you.

What a View!

On the roads he grew up riding, Manx native and former Manx Grand Prix Champion, Michael Evans, pilots his Aprilia 660 twin on the second lap of the Supertwin Race at the 2023 Isle of Man TT. Averaging 114 mph, Michael flies by his hometown crowd with an amazing view of the Irish Sea. Photo by Paul Phillips #189196

TREASURED EXPERIENCES

In 1980, The Knack sang “You Can’t Put a Price on Love.”

There are many of us that might consider this phrase to be about our membership and relationships within the MOA. One of the many highlights for me at the MOA’s 50th National Rally in Richmond was celebrating with and getting to meet a few of our MOA Pioneers who have been members since our inception in 1972. I was fortunate to have dinner with Norm Phoenix, Susan McCallister, Sue Atria and some family members of other Pioneers.

Norm has made every single rally since the beginning. What an absolute treat it was to talk about the first rally, how the rally has grown into such an amazing event which includes so many new and different things each year. When Norm was hit with a few roadblocks to attend the 50th, he said, “There was no way I was gonna miss this one.”

MOA dues back in 1972 were $5. As Norm pointed out, the club was truly in its infant stages back then and didn’t have the amazing things we all enjoy today, such as BMW Owners News magazine, podcasts, logo gear, discounts on motorcycle parts and accessories, training opportunities, the BMW Owners Anonymous book and so many of the things we all enjoy and expect today. The MOA and the Rally have become a way to build a family of enthusiasts able to learn about all things BMW motorcycles, rider safety, gear and so much more.

The MOA probably means something different for many of us. As we categorize our monthly or annual spending, one must ask the question: Where do the MOA dues fall? Is it continued education, entertainment, social or charitable contribution?

Certainly, our 50th Rally was a success. Personally, it was a record year for me in the number of things I purchased for myself and my bikes. On this tour, my R 1250 RT welcomed a new seat, more lights, crash bars and other farkels, and I took advantage of training opportunities offered at the rally. Being a music lover, I am continuously impressed with the quality of musicians who have performed at our last few rallies. So, when I categorize my MOA dues, it probably hits all of those aforementioned buckets for me.

But in thinking about dues and what we get for our money, I have to revert back to a comment Norm made at the Pioneer dinner. He said that it would be hard for him to put a price tag on the experiences, friendships and the countless ways he and we all interact with people we might not otherwise get to know. That night, I felt as though I was at a family dinner, listening to siblings reminisce about their experiences they have enjoyed over the past 50 years.

When it comes to family, my budget tends to swell in terms of how much time, effort and resources I put into the “family” bucket. At this dinner, I realized that I was in fact witnessing the Pioneers’ love for the MOA family.

Shortly after I returned home from the Rally, I was asked to introduce the legendary world traveler and author Sam Manicom at Moon Motorsports here in Minnesota. When I showed up to the event, I was greeted by a new MOA member, volunteer and first time Rally attendee, Rachel Stienstra as well as the legendary and longtime Minnesota Club member, Linda Theisen. I was struck by their energy, enthusiasm and willingness to volunteer and help make the event a success. We shared our excitement left over from having attended the Rally in Richmond and for future travels to Redmond, Oregon, next year.

From Norm to Linda and Rachel, I was witnessing how our collective efforts will help shape the next 50 years of the MOA. I believe the experiences, things we have learned, and the friends I have made along the way have been absolutely priceless.

As we move farther away from paying $5 in dues, I think we all have to remember, “You Can’t Put a Price on Love.”

PHIL STALBOERGER #196597

BMW MOA Treasurer

Right, A photo taken on the Sherman Pass Scenic Byway, a high mountain pass crossing the Kettle River Range in Washington State. Photo by Ed von Euw #129934.

Below Left, My K 1300 S photographed while out doing some "urban exploring" in the Tremont neighborhood of downtown Cleveland. Photo by Collin Stannard #229603.

Below Right, Dodging storm cells while riding the Cross Pennsylvania Adventure Trail. Photo by Mike Grantham #232337.

Bottom, A photo taken near the farm formerly owned by Jim Hoellerich which housed his private Museum of Vintage Trail Bikes in Cheshire, Massachusetts. Photo by Ross R. Bentz #232012.

Each month we publish the great images sent to us by BMW MOA members from their travels around the globe. Send us your best images and you could have your work published in our Postcards from the Road pages. Email your high resolution images, image description and contact information to editor@ bmwmoa.org.

Top, My 1979 R 100 RS photographed during an evening ride near Galisteo, New Mexico. Photo by Gregory Johnson #224569.

Above, John Kagan (#207411) left his 2017 R 1200 GS in the garage and took his new Ducati Desert X out to ride the Colorado Backcountry Discovery Route outside of Telluride, Colorado.

Right, A stop along Alaska's Glenn Highway between Tok and Glennallen during my ride from Austin, Texas, to Prudhoe Bay on my 2016 R 1200 GS. Photo by Olaf Roepke #200565.

RIDERTORIDER

Four Fantastic 50s!

The 2023 50th BMW MOA National Rally was a really special event for me.

In 1973, just before the First National in Morgan Hill, California, my wife and I had just purchased a matching pair of R 75/5s from a dealer in Salinas, California. We were new to BMWs so he told us we should check out the BMW Club of Northern California and a BMW event to be held in Morgan Hill. Since my family and I were going right through Morgan Hill on our way to San Jose anyway, we stopped off to check it out.

There I was at BMWMOA National Meet #1 and hooked for life! During the past 50 years, I’ve also attended numbers 3, 5, 40, 49 and now 50! 2023 marks 50 years as a BMW MOA member.

I still ride one of those first R 75/5s which is now 50 years old. I trailered it from Kansas to within 50 miles of Doswell and rode it those last 50 miles to enjoy the 50th National Rally with a week of the most beautiful weather imaginable.

With these four 50s accomplished, I’m officially now a brand-new member of the Airheads. Thank you, MOA.

Mike Miller #2666 Manhattan,

Thank You Euro Cycles

KS

It was June 28th, and I was competing in the 2023 Iron Butt Rally on the third leg of what was a very tightly contested event. My chosen route had me headed to Key West, Florida, to bag a big points bonus before turning north to grab east coast points on my way to the finish in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania.

After briskly crossing the desert southwest in triple digit heat, it became clear that the Dunlop TrailMax Mission rear tire on my 2017 R 1200 GSA was not going to get me to the finish line. I was loathing the prospect of sitting at a

dealer for a few hours while they tried to squeeze me into what would be a jammed summer service schedule. My chosen route would not allow that kind of downtime, and losing points at the scoring table for being late was something I could not afford. I knew there were three big BMW Motorrad dealers in Florida which are subsidiaries of Motos America–owner of several BMW/Ducati/ Triumph dealerships across the U.S. I am a salesman at Hermy’s BMW in Port Clinton, Pennsylvnia, where I spent eight years working with one Bobby Brown who left Hermy’s to pursue a management role with Motos America. Talk about a lucky break for me!

I called Bobby and explained the situation, and he knew the tight timeline Iron Butt Rally competitors face while trying to achieve a top finish and knew I was usually in the hunt for a top ten finish. Bobby called Euro Cycles of Tampa Bay—a dealer I’d literally be passing on my way to Key West—and spoke with their service manager, Mark Bowling, who then called me back to say “They’ll

be waiting for you.”

When I say the guys at Euro Cycles pulled off a miracle, I mean, a NASCAR style rear tire change in about 20 minutes! Mark and service writer John Lucas were waiting on my arrival and had a lift cleared and technician Beau Wilson waiting with tools in hand.

Once there, I literally had time to wash my hands and have a drink of water before Bowling said, “You’re ready to go!”

I was able to finish the Iron Butt Rally in 6th place, an achievement made possible by the unbelievable service by the guys at Euro Cycles of Tampa Bay. I can’t thank Bobby Brown of and the crew at Euro Cycles of Tampa Bay enough. This is clearly an organization that is willing to go out of their way to assist out-of-town riders who find themselves in a jam.

Bob Lilley #106590 Easton, Pennsylvania

Long Distance Comfort

Your recent article describing opinions for aftermarket, custom made motorcycle seats was very interesting. While some riders love their steed, many find it necessary to make their rump more comfortable. The seat options are many and are usually very expensive. There are other alternatives.

A few years ago, I purchased a pair of Moto Skiveez underwear and have found them absolutely fantastic. Let me explain. Last fall, I joined a small, guided group of seven motorcyclists and rode a rented BMW for 11 days touring in the European Alps. By chance, I met the person who had been riding my specific BMW on the last tour, and he reported that he liked the bike but at the end of each day he could not wait to get off it, saying the seat was too hard and uncomfortable.

My experience was completely different. I was enjoying the experience so much my rump was never on my mind. I was never uncomfortable and never once was dying to have the riding day end. I was comfortable throughout the 11 days, and I credit that to my choice of undergarments–at a fraction of the price of an alternative seat.

As they say, think outside the box. There are options which are more reasonable but equally effective to achieve a satisfactory comfort level.

James Stokes-Rees #230156 Saint John, New Brunswick

Well Done, Jack

I have never knowingly written a letter to an editor, although the urge has occurred a time or two. The July issue was very nicely done. I may have been in a special mood when it came, but the entire magazine was enjoyable. Heck, I even

reread some of the ads.

To the point. Riepe’s article has the usual absurdities, nuanced foolishness and hallucinations in lieu of imagery. However, it is also poignant, nostalgic and reverent. As an older rider missing some friends myself, this story resonated.

I don’t know if this was Riepe’s best article (probably), but it was his most evocative, and for that I thank you. Well done, Jack.

Long may you run.

Les Lippert #201790 Oconomowoc, Wisconsin

Different Meanings

In a letter in a recent issue of BMW Owners News, the writer suggested flashing hi-beams at oncoming cars possibly turning into his path.

In my experience, flashing lights sometimes means different things to different drivers. To some, it may mean “OK, you may proceed” or “I don’t know what that means” or “I may or not stop.” You get the idea.

Don’t assume. Ride safe.

Mike Reed #223681 Danville, California

Saved my Trip

I was on a trip to the Cumberlands in southeastern Kentucky recently and discovered I really needed a new rear tire. The bike was rideable, but I did not want to do any aggressive riding with that tire. I was about equidistant from two BMW dealers, each about two hours away. Being a Sunday, I figured I might be able to get some advice on a more local bike shop that could put in a new set. So, I pulled out my BMW Owners Anonymous

WE WANT TO HEAR FROM YOU!

book and left four or five messages with folks in the area. Not a single person bothered to return my call.

Candidly, I am not in the book this year but no matter what, I would have returned a call just to offer solace, if nothing else. I was quite surprised and disappointed to never get a return call at any of the numbers that I tried. My suggestion for those who are in the book: Either make a point of returning a call or don’t bother to be listed. I plan to re-list my information for next year.

I made some calls to shops that were open and eventually got referred to Central Kentucky Motorsports in Lexington. They and one of the BMW dealers were open on Monday. I called first thing, and the BMW dealer was not only fully booked with no willingness to be flexible but said they did not even have any tires on hand in the sizes I needed.

On the other hand, Central Kentucky Motorsports had decent tires in stock, and they got me in that day to replace the tires. I was very grateful to them. Very nice folks and very accommodating, they deserve a shout out for their willingness to help. They really saved my trip.

Nick Sloane #171437 Glendale Heights, Illinois

Thanks to Jack and Mark

In response to recent criticism in these pages, I like Jack Riepe because he makes me laugh, and I like Mark Barnes because he makes me think. They both serve as important parts of BMW Owners News.

Wayne Richard #145837 Seneca, South Carolina

Each month, the Rider to Rider pages of BMW Owners News detail the successes, failures, wishes and frustrations we all face as riders, BMW motorcycle owners, customers and individuals. As a BMW MOA member, these are your pages and we want to know what’s on your mind.

Got something to get off your chest? Tell us about it. Know a business that deserves to be recognized? Tell us about it. Got a riding or tech tip that we could all benefit from? Tell us about it. Got a suggestion for BMW Motorrad? You know the drill–Tell us about it! There’s only one rule and that’s to stick to the subject that brings us all here–motorcycling, so save political rants for Facebook! Send your thoughts to editor@bmwmoa.org and lets all work to build a better community.

Win the Bike of Your Dreams with MOA Foundation's "One Ticket & You Pick It" Fundraiser

The BMW MOA Foundation is back with its most popular member event to date, the “One Ticket & You Pick It” fundraiser. One ticket is all it takes to win any new BMW motorcycle in the 2023 or 2024 model lineup, including the winner’s choice of factory installed options. A prize package worth $38,750!

Tickets for the One Ticket & You Pick It fundraiser are on sale now through October 23, 2023. A winner will be announced live on October 28 at the fall BMW MOA Board of Directors meeting in Greer, South Carolina. You do not have to be present to win, but you must purchase a ticket to be included in the drawing. Tickets are $25 each or five for $100. Purchase tickets online at bmwmoaf.org or call the BMW MOA membership office at (864) 438-0962.

Proceeds from the One Ticket & You Pick It fundraiser benefit the rider training initiatives of the BMW MOA Foundation. With your support, the Foundation will fund over 400 Paul B. Training Grants, dozens of group training opportunities, and all rider training activities at the 2024 National Rally. With every ticket purchased, you are making a difference in the lives of MOA members through rider training. Complete contest rules and

Rev It Up on an Appalachian Backroad

The Appalachian Mountains are home to some of the most unique recreational and cultural experiences in the southeast. Heart of Appalachia Tourism Authority is dedicated to sharing this authentic destination, highlighting the wealth of natural beauty, traditional mountain music and historical attractions, and one-of-a-kind experiences that can only be found in Virginia’s

In the rugged mountains along the Heart of Appalachia are more than 1,500 thrill-inducing miles of heart-pounding excitement sure to satisfy your adventurous spirit with 14 vetted routes that wind and twist from the valleys to the ridges. When you’re ready to ride, our backroads are where you’ll find challenging roads and some of the most breathtaking scenery anywhere.

From our premiere route–the Back of the Dragon–to the Woodbooger, you’ll discover technical rides and a wealth of unique adventures, music and entertainment, shopping and

Need help planning your visit? Go to AppalachianBackroads. com to request your free map. Plus, download or request our free travel guide for trip ideas, itineraries, hometown favorites

In the rugged mountains along the Heart of Appalachia are more than 1,500 thrill-inducing miles of heart-pounding excitement.

BMW Motorrad Releases ConnectedRide Smartglasses

In celebration of its next 100 Years, BMW Motorrad recently released their ConnectedRide Smartglasses, motorcycle goggles with head-up display technology.

The goggles provide the head-up display technology already familiar from the automotive sector and project all relevant data, such as navigation, speed or gear, directly into the rider’s field of vision in real time, thus enabling safer motorcycle riding.

The BMW Motorrad ConnectedRide Smartglasses can be easily connected to your smartphone via Bluetooth and app. The projection can be positioned, and the settings can be selected before the ride or during, via the multi-controller on the motorcycle handlebars.

In addition to the individual user interface and an increase in riding safety, the smart glasses also offer a high level of comfort. The design of the smart glasses and the display has been adapted to meet the special needs of motorcyclists. BMW Motorrad supplies two sets of certified UVA/UVB lenses with the frame. One set of lenses is 85% transparent and can be used for helmets with integrated sun visors. The other set has tinted lenses turning the smart glasses into a pair of sunglasses.

For riders who wear prescription glasses, the lenses can be

ground and adjusted to the required visual acuity (up to max. 4 diopters) by an optician using an RX adapter. For those who wear contact lenses, the Smartglasses can be used normally. The set also includes a case and a USB charging cable.

The BMW ConnectedRide Smartglasses are expected to arrive in the U.S. later in 2023 and to be available in most states. Pricing and more detailed US information will be available closer to on-sale date.

Rally Raid-inspired design meets leading Road Tire technology

The new Dunlop Trailmax Raid’s design was inspired by their popular D908RR Rally Raid, a tire designed for aggressive adventure and cross-country conditions. The unmistakable block design on the D908RR tread is a key part of the Trailmax Raid’s tread design. The Raid utilizes tie-bars between the tread blocks to improve handling and stability for heavier bikes, while grip at higher lean angles when riding on the road is ensured by smaller gaps between the shoulder blocks. The large center blocks on the rear tire are designed to cope with road riding and the high-power output of adventure motorcycles.

The off-road inspired tread pattern is combined with Dunlop’s latest technologies that are available in its premium on- and off-road tires. These include their Dynamic Front Formula found in the Mutant which brings together a unique section profile and casing design to give a confidence-inspiring feeling and an optimal front/rear balance. The Hi-Silica compound of the Mutant and Roadsmart IV also enhances road adhesion and better wet grip performance, and Dunlop’s Carcass Tension Control System found in the Geomax line allows even flex throughout the tire for increased bump absorption.

Visit dunlopmotorcycletires.com or your local dealer for more information.

Touring the BMW Zentrum Museum

While in Greer, South Carolina, for rider training at BMW’s Performance Center, I checked out the nearby Zentrum facility on the sprawling, mind-bogglingly vast campus of the marque’s North American manufacturing plant. Though diminutive in size, the Zentrum packs a high-quality punch, with a finely curated selection of vehicles and gorgeous displays representing BMW’s relentless and diverse progression of designs in both two- and four-wheeled formats, from its early days right up to the latest, greatest machines and several not available to the general public.

Dwarfed by the gargantuan, featureless factory building just behind it, the recently renovated Zentrum is an intricately serrated, glass-walled, C-shaped structure, replete with a large array of fountains in front of its relaxing courtyard and understated entryway. There’s a paradoxical combination of industrial and artistic aesthetics that ought to be incongruent, but they’re integrated seamlessly and effectively— perhaps as an architectural homage to BMW’s success at wedding form and function in so many of their creations.

Inside, visitors are greeted by a bright and airy space simultaneously uncrowded, yet packed with stunningly delicious eye candy to examine—quite closely, if desired, as there are very few ropes or railings between observers and

the observed. An information booth in the reception area contains friendly staff (also scattered throughout the rest of the building) who will provide orientation and discuss the availability of scheduled one- or two-hour tours of the manufacturing plant. Tour tickets can be purchased there, by phone, or online via links on the Zentrum website for $15 or $25, respectively (BMW car club members and students aged 12-20 get a $5 discount; a CCA card is required when purchasing, and children under 12 are not permitted on plant tours). Much to my dismay, I learned these tours are often fully booked days in advance, so it behooves you to sign up for one well before your arrival; I certainly will next time! However, there is a Plan B available: a looping video of narrated tour highlights and absolutely amazing facts about plant operations, which plays continuously on a large screen in front of comfortable bench seating.

Now, on to what I came for! The first multi-level exhibit area features an eclectic collection of iconic BMW cars, arranged somewhat randomly and ranging from the open cockpit 1930 Ihle DIXI to the 2000 X5 SUV, the first model produced at the adjacent plant over two decades ago. The latter has a special place in my heart, since I owned one back in the day and still revel in memories of its Saturn V thrust, sports car

handling, and luxurious accommodations. Several newer models are present, too, documenting the continuous arc of automotive development spanning nearly a century. Each classic is impeccably restored to its original showroom condition, and all vehicles on display, new and old, inspire extensive salivation—including the BMW/Williams FW22-02 formula one racer perched menacingly along the front wall.

Next, outside an auditorium not in use while I was there, is a pair of electric vehicles, an i-3 and i-8, representing a direction of innovation extending into the future, with electrons figuring ever more prominently in technological advances. Then comes “The most powerful letter in the world: M,” featuring both roadgoing and racetrack versions of BMW’s top-tier performance coupes. Sadly, the motorcycle exhibit is miniscule, with just four modern variants (one being a scooter) showing a bit of the presentday lineup’s breadth. Still, given the Zentrum’s extreme space limitations and the dominance of the company’s automotive division, bikes may have received an arguably generous allotment of real estate.

Lastly, there’s an exhibit of the various X-series vehicles currently in production at Plant Spartanburg, so called, even though it’s technically in Greer, because Spartanburg is a more recognizable

Left, F1 Racer

Below Left, Isetta

Below Right, 1934 DIXI

Above, Motorcycles on display at the BMW Zentrum. Below, BMW M car exhibit.

1934 DIXI - b copy.jpg

landmark. Nevermind that Greer is actually a tad closer to even more well-known Greenville—go figure! Given the world-leading demand for SUVs in the United States, it makes sense for BMW to produce these here at the rate of 1,500 per day and ship what we don’t buy to other parts of the globe.

No museum would be complete without a gift shop, and the Zentrum’s is stocked with all sorts of BMW- and Mini-branded merchandise (modern Minis are made by BMW), including the obligatory shirts, caps, and drinkware, along with some genuinely interesting novelties. Expect BMW pricing. There’s also a little cafe, named after the Isetta “bubble car” (1955-1962) and decorated with an adorable specimen of the tiny machine on a waist-high pedestal.

The Zentrum is a gem—small, multi-faceted, and exquisitely beautiful. Although the vehicles on display are quite limited in number, they’re fascinating and accessible enough to fill a couple of hours with delight. I wouldn’t recommend going for the motorcycle exhibit, since you could do far better on that count by simply strolling into your local dealership. If, however, you’re already in or near Greer and possess a fondness for BMW cars, it’s well worth a visit. Admission is free, it’s open Monday through Friday from 9:30 AM to 5:30 PM, and you can easily augment your trip to the museum with a tour of the magnificent manufacturing facility if you plan ahead. Note that the Zentrum is located deep within the BMW campus. After passing through the main entrance, you’ll wind past a series of monolithic plant buildings before the access road terminates at a visitor parking lot with the Zentrum at its far edge.

BMW Zentrum

1400 Highway 101 South Greer, SC 29651

(888) 868-7269

bmwusfactory.com/zentrum

U.S. GS Trophy Qualifier Dates Announced

Interested in seeing if you’ve got what it takes to compete and take on the rest of the world?

Having travelled throughout the globe, for 2024 the GS Trophy returns to Africa–the place where it all began, with U.S. National Qualifiers set to take place at the BMW U.S. Rider Academy at the BMW Performance Center in Greer, South Carolina.

Beginning on Thursday, October 12, 2023, with a check-in and welcome, the competition will begin on Friday, October 13, and continue through Saturday, October 14, when three male finalists are selected to represent the U.S. at the final event in Namibia in 2024. Additionally, two female finalists will be selected to advance to the female International Qualifier Event. More details about the Women’s International Qualifier date and location will be announced soon.

Prior to the event, a two-day GS Trophy Prep Course is available for GS Trophy hopefuls on September 20-21 at the U.S. Rider Academy. The class will work on the basic adventure rider skills needed to compete in both individual and team GS Trophy-style challenges. Call 888-3454269 to reserve a seat in this class. Space is limited and participation in the prep course is not necessary to compete in the GS Trophy Qualifier.

2024 GS Trophy Qualifier Volunteers Needed

Volunteers play a vital role in the GS Trophy Qualifier events and will get to see the best adventure riders up close as they give it their all for a coveted seat on the U.S. Team. For more information on the important functions you’ll provide, please call 888-345-4269.

Volunteers will receive a jersey and all meals, beginning with dinner Thursday evening through dinner on Saturday evening.

To register for the GS Trophy Qualifier as a participant or volunteer, please visit bmwperformancecenter.com/motorrad/ gstrophy.

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Weiser’s updated EVO range of LED lights add dynamic multi-functionality to your bike’s turn signals in a stunningly effective package. Designed to help get your motorcycle seen... whatever the maneuver...whatever the weather conditions.

Redverz's Limited Edition Atacama Expedition Tent

Whether crossing the Andes in Chile, rocky tracks through northwestern Africa or even the most challenging routes of the BDR, adventure riders have to demand a robust standard of dependability, durability and functionality from the gear they carry. Luckily there are plenty of well-known brands that offer gear living up to those demands, such as Touratech, Mosko Moto, Klim, Aerostich and a slew of others. But when it came to finding a tent for my own somewhat less epic adventures, one name I kept hearing was Redverz.

Unlike some of those other ADV gear vendors, I found Redverz basically only makes tents, in fact really just three models, the Atacama Expedition, the Solo Expedition and the Hawk II Four Season Mountaineering Tent. Partly because I’m a notorious packrat and a magnet for ride-cancelling weather, but mainly because my so-called tent had somehow morphed into a 15-year-old bundle of duct-taped poles, ripped-stop nylon and a few rusty stakes, Redverz Co-Owner and Marketing Director Christine Muggleton recommended the Atacama, which was being offered last spring for $100 off as a limited edition in a cool ivory color.

Set Up/Take Down

Once I received my Atacama, I wisely elected to try setting it up in my back yard, kind of a shake-down cruise. It was a hot and humid afternoon with the first hatch of gnats ecstatic with the prospect of finding some aged human flesh to dine on, but I persevered with assistance from my four-year-old grandson Lincoln and my Lab Penny. In respect for my discerning readers, I unwisely elected to set up the tent with just a cursory glance at the directions, thinking any $600 piece of equipment should practically set itself

up. Half an hour later, Penny had adopted the still-prostrate heap of nylon and screens as her new dog bed and Lincoln had discovered how to pound tent stakes out of sight. While I was fighting to avoid using words neither had probably heard before, Lincoln went in for lunch and a nap, and Penny retreated to her newest hole in the lawn. Defeated and in retreat, I climbed to my office to actually read the instructions and watch a sobering video. All was revealed, mainly I realized I had been trying to erect the tent upside down. Once more back into the breech, I flipped the tent over, planted the first two stakes at the windward end (clearly marked, incidentally) inserted the three shock-corded and color-keyed poles, and guess what? It pretty much set itself up! Two days later, I found I could set the tent

up, take it down, and stow it in its dry bag in less than 45 minutes.

Features

One of the most distinguishing features of the Atacama (and Redverz was the first to introduce it) is of course what Redverz calls its “Garage.” The middle section of the tent can be a parking stall for your favorite BMW. Piloting a 1250 GS with its stock side cases through the 38” doorway was no problem, though it was necessary to duck a bit upon entering. (Redverz says even an HD Ultra Classic will fit.) It could get a little tight putting a bike in there without considering that you want to enter with the open storage compartment on your left, so you have room to dismount safely, also, if using the

kickstand, you want the bike leaning AWAY from the sleeping area. If you don’t park the bike in the tent, the Garage space is a great, shady space to cook in or sit with friends over an adult beverage with the added space of the 5’x4’ foot storage bay. The stuff I normally carry on my bike when camping (duffel, helmet, pants and jacket, chair, JetBoil, etc.) barely took up a third of that section. I’d recommend purchasing the groundsheet for the Garage and storage bay that clips to the perimeter so you can walk around in there without bringing dirt into the sleeping area ($49).

The sleeping section is almost eight feet deep and will give two riders plenty of personal space, three with no gear, fairly cozy, four, in a pinch. This section also comes with a pre-attached rain fly and has big screen doors at both ends for a lot of flow-through ventilation, along with zippered rain/privacy flaps. Redverz offers a groundsheet for this section to make it easier to pack the tent up dry and clean, though the floor is already heavier

The sleeping area is cavernous, easily accommodating two people and up to four in a pinch.

material, has bathtub edges and is waterproof all by itself.

Designers of the Atacama seemed to be fully aware of the inclement conditions it might be asked to endure. The edges are secured with a plethora of loops for the supplied aluminum stakes (keep them away from your grandson), and fully eight guy lines make the tent stable in the wind with each stowing in a clever pocket. Positioning the tent as the directions suggest actually makes the tent pretty aerodynamic with all the flaps zipped up. With the zippered flaps on the three doors with screens rolled up and secured, there is great flow-through ventilation.

Pros/Cons

This is a BIG tent, almost 16 feet long and nearly spanning 8 feet at its widest, so it’s a bit heavy and bulky. Packed in its 21 x10 inch stuff sack, it weighs about 14.5 lbs. without the ground sheets. There also is a larger, more heavy-duty duffel available from Redverz, but obviously that adds more weight. It’s not really a tent for car glamping, but it does eat space on a bike like a 310 GS.

The Atacama has been around since 2008, and I had to wonder why, by now, designers had not thought to incorporate more loops or hooks to hang wet riding gear or lights. Though there are net pockets on the sides of the sleeping section, many adventure tents also include a net near the ceiling for more storage of personal items, but the Atacama has none. However (and I don’t know why I

haven’t mentioned this earlier) YOU CAN STAND UP IN THIS TENT! Perhaps a net would have interfered with that.

I slept through one rainstorm in the Atacama and saw no leaks or pooling water in the morning (Something I had come to associate as a given ever since camping as a kid in our canvas army surplus monstrosity). The water does bead on the surface of the rainfly and the other sections, and could be shaken off pretty easily. The sleeping section also seemed pretty bug proof—no mosquitos, gnats or black flies unless the screens were left open. All the flaps and screens use heavy duty zippers with pull loops; they slide slickly up and down with no snagging.

Some Specs (from Redverz.com/ Atacama)

• Seasons: 3

• Maximum Length: 195”

• Maximum Width: 102”

• Sleeping Bay: 92” x 95”

• Rainfly fabric: Coated ripstop Polyester

68D 210T 4000mm

• Inner Tent Fabric: 75D 190Y/P breathable

• Mosquito Netting: Mesh B3

• Peak Height: 77”

Is the Atacama for you?

Since its introduction and improvements made over the last 15 years, the Redverz Atacama has garnered a steady stream of positive reviews, both from customers

and the motorcycle press. Given reasonable care, I have a feeling an Atacama should last for the life of the user, and this durability, along with its innovative design and multiple functionalities make it worth the price tag. Though I’m not thinking of heading off to the Yukon or Mongolia, in my estimation, any rider thinking of investing in high end camping gear for short or long treks should take a look. For more information, visit Redverz.com.

Ron Davis has been a rider, off and on, for about 50 years. Over that period, he’s also squeezed in a full-time career as a high school English teacher and later, a university professor while also working as a social media writer for the Northwest Ontario tourism industry and as an Associate Editor for BMW Owners News. His writing has been featured in a host of motorcycle magazines, and his essays have been broadcast frequently on Wisconsin Public Radio’s “Wisconsin Life.” He has also authored two books on motorcycling, Shiny Side Up and Rubber Side Down, published by Road Dog Publications (roaddogpub.com).

From Max to Min

If you’re not in the market for a Taj Mahal of motorcycle tents like the Redverz Atacama and prefer the minimalist approach, you might want to take a look at the Aerostich Stealth Bivy Shelter. I first looked at one of these when Owners News did a special camping section a few years ago, and am still attracted to it for a number of reasons.

With typical Aerostich quality, the waterproof version of the Stealth Bivy ($247) is constructed of 40 Denier, three-layer ripstop nylon. An alternative model, called the Ultralight ($227), uses silicone-urethane coated 30 Denier ripstop nylon.

The Ultralight model of the Stealth Bivy I opted for offers a nice alternative to my bulky mummy bag in the summer, since it’s incredibly light weight, good sized (roomy enough to put your foam pad and regular sleeping bag inside) and is tough enough to just throw on the ground and crawl in, pulling the drawstring around your face to control the bugs. The material is breathable yet water resistant.

Both versions of the Stealth Bivy pack into their own attached sack, taking up about as much space as a hand towel, and weigh no more than two pounds. Even if you plan on motel-ing it, it’s nice to have as a backup in your pannier for when you find you’ve pushed too far and the only town in 100 miles is having its annual cow pie festival weekend, all the “No Vacancy” signs beaming brightly.

And..there’s more! The Bivy Stealth Shelter can also transform into a bottomless pup tent, cycle cover, shade or rain tarp, using the benefit of its edge loops for stakes and provided rope. The center is reinforced to be used on a pole, possibly over a campfire in the rain, and Aerostich suggests it also can serve as a picnic blanket, table cloth, or a ground sheet for your regular tent. I’ve also figured I could use it as a ground cloth if I had to do some kind of roadside repair—nice to avoid squatting in the dirt and watching hex bolts flip into the grass, never to be found again.

For more information, visit Aerostich.com.

Camp Chairs

You can spend the entire weekend at a rally riding or taking in the sights, and when you’re back by your tent or ready to tell some lies by the fire, you’ll want a comfy chair to sit in.

It’s got to break down enough to be easily transported by motorcycle, though, so we asked MOA members on Facebook what their favorite chairs are. As you might expect, Kermit was a top answer, but there’s more out there to try.

Kermit Chair

MSRP: $299; leg extensions $50 kermitchair.com

"It’s an example of craftsmanship that is increasingly difficult to find. It doesn’t make it better as a piece of useful equipment necessarily, but certainly it’s an item to marvel at; designed, engineered and built by a human hand. What else is truly hand made these days?" –

Allen Dye

"I’m partial to Kermit Chairs with leg extensions. Even with two artificial knees, I'm comfortable and can get out of the chairs.

– Bert Hefty

"I bring one with me on my riding adventures as often as practical and think of my dad (may he rest in peace) and my mom and the many adventures they had. – Shawn

Murray

"Love the Kermit chair. I have long legs so mine has the leg extensions. I bought the hard case for it and it's now much easier to pack and strap." – Curtis

Lenderman

REI Flexlite Camp Chair

MSRP: $69.95 rei.com

"The REI Flexlite has been great for me. Very compact and comfortable." –

Mitch Dane

"The Flexlite packs smaller than a Kermit—and it’s orange!"

– Michael Moon

"I’ve seen the benefits of many of the big name-brand chairs, but I’m partial to the REI brand. It’s good-to-excellent quality, for considerably less money." –

Tom McGehee

Helinox Sunset Chair

MSRP: $169.95

helinox.com

"The high-backed Helinox fits perfectly into the narrow nose of the sidecar, wedged in front of Glenlivet's bed and kibble."

– Peter Burke

"The high-backed chairs do not take up any more room than the others and are much more comfortable and easier to get up out of. A trick - small dog tennis balls on the feet keep them from sinking in and are cheap to replace." –

Mimi Harson

"Just finished 11 days on the road and a Helinox high-backed chair was my luxury item." –

Dave Fahringer

"Quick to set up, sturdy and it fits in my tiny little saddlebags."

– James F Carlisle

Travel Chair

Joey Chair

MSRP: $120 travelchair.com

"It serves a purpose and those disassembled legs-akimbo fold up and pack away easily. A Joey, along with my Big Agnes Fly Creek II, fit easily into a single F 650 GS Jesse case and an F 800 GS Touratech bag."

– Wynne Benti

Nemo Moonlight Reclining Chair

MSRP: $159.95

nemoequipment.com

"Small and ultralight with good back support. A kind of basket design. Can adjust and recline, and works well leaning back or forward."

– Nino Rossecles

Klim's Krios Pro Helmet, Part 2

Since that word gets thrown around a lot, I somewhat reluctantly used the term “revolutionary” to describe my Klim Krios Pro helmet when I first received it last winter (ON, February 2023). However, after using the Krios for a few months this spring and summer, I feel even more confident using that adjective, and the riders I’ve shown it to seem to come to the same judgement.

Probably what sets the Klim Krios apart from other, more conventional helmets and generates so much interest among riders are its four unique qualities. First, weighing in at about three pounds, the Klim Krios is easily the lightest full-face helmet I’ve ever worn. I use a small windshield, and was a little concerned that the peak on the Krios would catch the wind and with the carbon fiber laid helmet being so light, could cause some buffeting. However, the large ports in the peak seem to channel the wind, and I never experienced a pull upwards on my neck and head. In a stiff crosswind though, the peak does seem to grab the wind more, and the light weight of the lid may have something to do with that. Of course, the peak can easily be removed, as can the face shield itself, with no tools needed.

Other riders also seem curious about the photochromatic Transitions® lens. Frankly, I’ve come to love it. Being a glasses wearer, it’s annoying to have to change back and forth from sunglasses to clear, but the Transitions® lens goes from clear to its darkest shade inside a minute, and even at its darkest tint, it’s not dark enough to be dangerous during daylight. The Krios also comes with a standard clear face shield, and both shields have two detents to provide fresh air on hot days and are both ready for the included Pinlock shield liner.

A third innovation of the Klim Krios that many riders may not have seen before is the Fidlock chin strap latch. I

have used Shoei, Arai and Nolan helmets that use either D-rings or microlocks, and once you get used to it, neither is as convenient as the Fidlock, especially when wearing gloves. Using a strong magnet, the Fidlock latch clicks the chin strap together and can only be released by pulling a red ribbon tab (a onehanded operation). I would judge it just as safe as any other latch system and have started seeing it on other applications as well, like bike helmets, protective clothing and luggage.

The fourth feature of the Krios is not one that most riders notice at first. Most motorcycle helmets currently use an EPS liner made of polystyrene beads that crush on impact. The Klim Krios is the first helmet I know of that uses Koroyd, a honeycomb-like structure made of double lined co-polymer tubes, sort of like short straws on end. The manufacturer claims Koroyd provides 48% more energy absorption than polystyrene, and unlike traditional liners, Koroyd is unaffected by high or low temperatures.

(Polystyrene gets softer when hot, harder when cold.) I have a feeling Koroyd is the impact protection of the future, and it is reportedly currently in use in fighter pilot and F1 helmets.

I’m guessing, but I’d say the Koroyd liner in the Krios, though it may provide better ventilation and reduce weight, contributes to the helmet being a little noisy. I would compare the wind noise of the Krios at highway speeds to that of a low-end flip-up helmet. I always wear ear plugs to preserve what’s left of my hearing after playing in a rock band for ten years, so it’s not a huge concern to me, but it’s something to consider for those who do a lot of slab touring. I also found the Krios quieter on the highway with the peak removed.

In Wisconsin, we’ve had an unusually hot spring and early summer, which unfortunately has given me the opportunity to test the Klim Krios’ ventilation. The Krios has a big, adjustable chin intake which definitely creates a nice breeze across the face, aided by a bunch of exhaust vents at the back. There is also an on/off forehead intake which is less generous. If it was drawing in air, I couldn’t feel much (and being bald, I would know); however, by removing the chin curtain and cracking the face shield, the helmet provides plenty of ventilation.

All in all, I’d say the Klim Krios Pro helmet is worth a look, especially if your riding is a mix of on- and off-road. Its one-of-a-kind features make it a safe, versatile and comfortable lid, that, despite its hefty price tag ($749.99), should be popular with many motorcyclists. For more information, check out my video comments on BMWOwnersNews. com or visit Klim.com.

Klim's Switchback Cargo Pants

Like Klim’s Krios Pro helmet, their Switchback Cargo Pants are designed to be versatile enough for both on- and off-road riding, plus the Switchbacks can even be worn as casual wear off the bike.

Whether climbing into the mountains or buzzing across the plains, how your gear handles varying temperatures has to be a major concern. I found these breathable, single-layer, canvas/Cordura® pants cool enough to wear into the 80s and warm enough down into the 50s, though they are roomy enough to be supplemented with thermal underwear when temps dip even lower. For warm conditions, there are zippered thigh vents on the outside of both legs and doubleheaded zippers at the bottoms that can be opened for even more ventilation.

Though a little stiff at first, it didn’t take long for the stretch-fabric pants to become fairly supple and quite comfortable. And though the Switchbacks are heavier than textile mesh pants (about 10 lbs.), I’ve worn other riding pants that were even heavier. Besides being comfortable when I was in the saddle, the pants work for just walking around and can pass as regular cargo pants in “Teak,” “Monument Gray,” and the two-tone “Black-Asphalt.” I found using the same size I use in jeans worked fine, and the cuffs are adjustable with hook and loop tabs and snaps to accommodate most any kind of riding boot.

Klim uses what they call their “D30® IP Ghost Armor” in the knee and hip areas that’s rated at CE Level 1. It’s flexible, about as thin as a pancake and light, but probably not as protective as stiffer, harder, and thicker armor in a major impact; however, Klim claims the three-layer armor “absorbs and dissipates impact energy” and unlike some higher rated armor, is unaffected by temperature swings. A clever feature of the Switchback design is that the position of the knee armor pads can be adjusted through

openings under the two front cargo pockets, so no taking the pants off to do this.

Pockets? You want pockets? Switchback pants have two generous, top-ofthigh cargo pockets, one snap with an organizer inside, and one zippered. There are also hand pockets, two seat pockets (one zippered) and a cool thigh knife pocket.

With a MSRP at $299.99, Klim’s Switchback pants present a multipurpose solution for the challenge of finding a riding pant that offers protection, comfort and a stylish look suitable for everyday wear. For more information and more user evaluations, visit Klim.com.

David Duke’s 1973 Grenada Red R 75/5

This bike is of particular interest in this series not only for its originality, but also because of its Memphis, Tennessee, history–a city I called home for almost 20 years.

As owner David Duke tells the story, he’s the third owner of a 1973 long wheelbase R 75/5 which came to him via a trade in 1994. He traded a friend his Norton Commando for the Slash 5 when the bike had just 17,000 miles on the clock. Many would concur that, in the long run, the trade turned out quite well and as of this writing, the Slash 5 has logged over 77,000 miles.

Originally delivered from Leo’s Cycle Sales in Memphis, Tennessee, the bike has also been serviced by Clyde Reese’s shop in Shelbyville, Tennessee. Seeing a bike originally purchased in Memphis with a well-documented service and maintenance history is a real treat.

Over the years, David noted he‘s purchased parts from Nathan Mende at Boxerworks in Watkinsville, Georgia, back when Nathan ran his shop from his house. Except for the transmission and a recent top end refresh by Bud Provin at Nickwackett Garage in Pittsford, Vermont, David has seen to all the maintenance and repairs himself, which has included refreshing the carbs, replacing the timing chain, clutch, rear main seal, final drive seal and the seat cover. Noting he traded his Norton Commando for this bike, David says one of his favorite attributes of his Slash 5 is that “Nothing falls off.”

BMW’s Slash 5 series has long been a favorite of 247 aficionados with yours truly being one of them. Having owned a black 1973 R 75/5 for nearly 20 years, it’s easy to understand David’s enthusiasm for this bike. The Slash 5 series is a classic design that incorporated many of the attributes the early 247s became known for, including timeless lines, rebuildable quality, reliability and versatility as both a daily driver and cross-country tourer.

Now, back to the Memphis connection and why this bike is so germane to this series.

Though Leo’s Cycle Sales and Clyde Reese’s shop are long gone, the stories of those shops remain vivid and colorful when told by Leo Goff of Memphis Motor Werks in Cordova, Tennessee. Goff is a semi-retired mechanic and musician living in Memphis, Tennessee, who came to prominence in the late ‘60s and early

‘70s with his record-setting and champion Norton drag bike. Leo operated an independent shop in Memphis for many years and went on to work with the team at Memphis Motor Works before stepping back from full time work. Today, Leo plays bass in a number of bands in Memphis and can regularly be seen performing on Beale St.  (Learn more about Memphis and the BMW scene in the early 1970s and some of Memphis’ unique history by tuning into the Leo episodes of the Airhead 247 Podcast.)

Current owner Duke met Leo Goff by coincidence in June 2022 at the annual British in the Blue Ridge Rally held in Hiawassee, Georgia. David learned of Leo’s history with Norton and BMW by listening to Leo’s 247 Podcast episode, and the two had never met before the accompanying photo was taken–an interesting connection with not too many degrees of separation given the Slash 5’s Memphis regional history and Leo’s involvement with both BMW and Norton over the years. When asked if he remembered the bike, Leo’s response was no surprise, “If that bike came from Memphis, there’s a good chance I had my hands on it”.

The Airhead 247 Survivor Series articles explore original paint/condition Boxer 247 models (1970-1995), the stories behind the bikes and their owners. Motorcycles that retain their original factory paint work and majority of original parts are a testament to the quality and longevity of BMW’s Boxer 247 model run. Daren Dortin highlights these fantastic machines in his Airhead 247 podcast where he speaks with independent mechanics, product developers and aficionados of the classic airhead BMW motorcycles.

Daren hosts the Airhead 247 Podcast and lives in Mountain View, Arkansas.

His first BMW was a 1972 R 75/5 purchased in Athens, Ohio, in 1990. His current rides include a ‘75 R 90S, ‘77 R 100 S, ‘78 R 100 RS, ‘81 R 80 G/S and a 1994 K 75. Daren also works as a for hire drummer and can be heard on recordings by Jimbo Mathus and Alvin Youngblood Hart.

DAREN

Q&A: Should I buy a low mileage police bike?

Q:

We are looking at a 2018 R 1200 RT-P with 2,100 miles. My opinion is it would need a major service done because of so few miles, but what do you think? Is it OK to pick it up and just start riding? Most of our riding is long distance. Their asking price is almost 90% of what a new bike would cost, largely because of (as they’re saying) the low mileage. –Tina B

A:

Disclaimer: Tina is a friend of mine, and when she says “most of our riding is long distance,” it’s important to remember she and her partner have both successfully finished the Iron Butt Rally.

Probably the most frequent questions I get from MOA members are along the lines of Tina’s: “Should I buy this bike and is this a good price?” I’m frank with my opinions, but keep in mind I’m not a professional mechanic and that’s what they are–opinions.

On its surface, I’d probably pass on this bike for one simple reason: It’s overpriced. In 2018, the MSRP for a basemodel R 1200 RT was $18,395. The MSRP for a base-model 2023 R 1250 RT is $19,695–an increase of about 7% between the model years. When you consider BMW’s premium package (everything from heated grips to keyless ignition, plus high-tech doo-dads like adaptive cruise control and full-LED lighting), it’s reasonable to approximate a final retail cost for the 2018 of about $25,500. With a $24,000 asking price, from my perspective you’re better off buying a new 1250 and getting the factory warranty. None of that even accounts for any price bumps resulting from the authority package.

Speaking of which, I assume an RT-P of any year and mileage is subject to much harder use than a typical RT, and if maintenance records are available and show regular attention to the

maintenance schedule, generally speaking I wouldn’t hesitate to buy a used RT-P. The determination there is whether the authority accoutrements are important to you. I think for most folks, the loss of the pillion seat and small side cases don’t make up for the weight from the second battery and the subframe used to carry the crash protection.

If the RT-P in question was never run by a police department, then there’s no worry about how well or poorly the authority electronics (light, siren, radio, etc.) were removed when the bike was decommissioned. If it was used by a PD, though, my first question would be why they dumped it with barely 2,000 miles on it–well before even its first post-breakin service. That’s a red flag to me, and I’d

be moving on.

A five- or six-year-old bike with 2,100 miles on it should be an absolute cream puff, but from my perspective would need a few things right off the bat. First and foremost, a full major service, because if it hasn’t been serviced since the break-in service (usually specified between 300 and 900 miles by BMW, most of us get it done around 600 miles), then there’s two additional questions: How long did it take to get to the break-in service, and how long has it been since then? The idea that the oils (engine and final drive), brake fluid and coolant have been sitting largely idle for four- or five-plus years gives me pause, because I’ve seen corrosion develop in much less time than that due to

contaminated fluids just sitting there. I’m not saying that absolutely would happen; I’m saying it would be a big concern for me.

Beyond the major service, the bike would at a minimum need a new battery–perhaps both of them to be safe–and new tires, as at 2,100 miles I’d be concerned about cracking and dry rot, even if the bike was stored indoors in a climate-controlled environment. Right there you’re looking at minimum $500-700, maybe even $1,000 depending on whether you do the services yourself or not.

Knowing how motor officers treat their bikes in the course of duty, I would want to check out the condition of the clutch basket and plates, which on a 2018 is a bit involved–certainly not unreasonable or impossible, and less work than splitting the bike apart like you’d have to do for a bike from the dry clutch era, but a lot of work nonetheless, and quite possibly not something many of us would be willing to do in our garages at home. Just knowing those clutch components could have been sitting in dirty oil for several years would make this check a near-necessity for me. More than that, the idea of contaminated brake fluid sitting idle in the ABS system would make me hesitate in a big way.

It’s entirely possible a 2018 RT-P with 2,100 miles on it would present zero problems to its new owner, and maybe some MOA member bought this bike and immediately rode it from Florida to Alaska and back with zero difficulties, but when Tina asked me this question, I advised her not to buy this specific bike without having it checked out by a professional first. I advised against a fly-and-ride, simply because there are

Conversations with independent mechanics, product developers and aficionados of the Airhead 247 BMW. New episodes every two weeks. Available on Apple Podcasts Spotify, Soundcloud.

too many variables in my mind as to its condition given the low usage over a fairly long period of time. To me, this is an $18,000 bike, the purchase of which is immediately followed up by about $2,000 in tires, batteries, fluids, filters and labor. Even at that price point, I’d be sorely tempted to get a 2023 or 2024 RT instead, skipping the authority package and trading that extra money for larger side cases, passenger capability, updated technology, peace of mind and BMW’s three-year/36,000-mile new bike warranty. Specifically knowing how Tina rides, I’m sure she’d run through the miles first, and since used bikes bought from individuals don’t typically come with warranties, I recommended she not buy this RT-P unless she could get the

price way down.

In general, a decommissioned police bike is likely a good deal for most riders, but as always it depends on the rider, the seller and the specific bike in question. Let’s be honest: Buying any used bike is a crapshoot and the variables are endless, so being diligent about asking questions and negotiating a fair price are critical to making sure you have the best used bike experience possible.

By the way, if you ever want to ask me about whether or not you should buy a specific used bike, be sure to tell me whether or not you need to be talked out of it, or if you’ve already bought it and are just looking for justification from a third party. Either way, I’ve got your back!

Wes Fleming tried being a rock star for 25 years, but gave all that up to focus on motorcycles. His mother still hasn’t forgiven him. The first new motorcycle he ever bought got run over by a car – with him still in the saddle. He discovered BMWs thanks to a friend in 2001 and has been riding trendy, not-sotrendy and sidecar-equipped BMWs ever since. Wes currently holds down multiple jobs, including freelance guitar consultant and history professor; when he's not pacing around his empty nest, he's out looking for a great deal on a used motorcycle.

“The Touratech Shock and Extreme Fork Cartridge soaked up the bumps and kept my F850GS controlled and planted on the Oregon BDR.”

Touratech Suspension is valved for adventure riding and has been battle-tested on all 12 BDR routes. It’s earned high marks for performance and reliability over the last decade. Call

Iain Glynn GS Trophy Team ORBDR Expedition

POWERED BY SUNSHINE AND FUELED BY PASSION: 2023 ISLE OF MAN TT

By Paul Phillips #189196

Sunny skies and mild temperatures greeted each traveler arriving for the 2023 Isle of Man TT. With expectations for variable weather, including sunshine, rain and mist often all in one day, fans returning here for the TT know to expect rain delays, postponements and schedule changes, with rest days often becoming race days. However, locals and longtime fans were astounded with the 2023 weather, saying it was as good as they had ever seen; some even complained about the extreme heat, with temperatures approaching 80 degrees. Personally, I thought the weather was fabulous and the best since I started coming to the TT in 2017. There was good light, mild temperatures and opportunities to capture some cool photos.

Looking back, like so many others, the Isle of Man TT was long on my bucket list. As a sports photographer, potential images of the speed, the sounds and the Mountain Course of the TT swirled in my mind well in advance of my stepping off

my flight.

When I first arrived at the TT in 2017, it was a side trip on the way back home from shooting the Ironman Lanzarote Triathlon in the Canary Islands. I had to travel through Dublin, so as I was sort of in the neighborhood, my thought was the TT would be a one and done visit like so many other events I have shot! There is, however, something about this place, something that draws you in and keeps you coming back. It is not just me; based on a recent tourism survey, 65% of the 2023 TT visitors had been there before. The crowds that gather here are an eclectic and international crowd, bonded by the freedom only experienced on two wheels and fueled by collective passion. I immediately felt immersed in the community of TT devotees.

Everything about that first visit exceeded my expectations. The breathtaking skills of the riders and the speeds on the narrow, twisty course inflame the passion of every single fan in attendance.

Topping all of that were new friends, the passionately involved locals who make up the lifeblood of the TT, and the island. At the end of my fortnight, I acknowledged their kind farewells of “See you next year!” and their offers of a place to stay.

On my return to Minneapolis and while I was still reveling in my first TT experience, I realized there was still something missing. As good as my time there was, I wanted to know more, see more and meet more people. I immediately put the 2018 race dates in my calendar.

And so, I came back in 2018, and I found none of my prior excitement had diminished. I was smiling from the moment I touched down at the Douglas airport. Now staying with friends who lived a half-mile from the famed Ballagarey Turn, I was ready for more adventure.

In 2018, I spent more time in the paddock, less with the top riders but more with the privateers. Mostly based in

Aussie Rennie Scaysbrook, changed bikes and teams during the event, here on his BMW Superbike for Kibosh racing and leaning into the Ramsey Hairpin heading up to the mountain course.

the lower paddock, privateers are exactly what they sound like–unsponsored racers riding personal bikes, self-funded, supported by family and friends and fueled solely by the passion to race. Although some have sponsorship, they all have day jobs. Some have hopes of gaining future sponsorship or a factory ride, but most only race in an effort to achieve personal goals to finish and complete the Senior TT or perhaps clock a 125-mph lap.

Dominic Herbertson is one of those riders. I met “Dom da bomb” after sticking my head into his pop-up tent in the paddock. Dom’s day job was and still is being a tree surgeon. Outside of his tent he had a sign stating that for £10, you could get your name on his bike. Although I didn’t contribute, I did buy him lunch!

A very popular rider in the paddock, Dom’s effusive personality, riding skills and attention to detail paid off, and in 2022 he had five top 10 finishes in the five

Dominic Herbertson, riding his Apero BMW S 1000 RR Superstock through Union Mills, lifting off after the slight dip on the road. Herbertson finished 8th in the Superbike race and 9th in the Superstock.

Lining up shoulder to shoulder for practice always presents the challenge of who goes first when the starter sends you off one at a time. We all wish more things in the world could be settled as easily as Gary Vines (52) and Richard Wilson (47) resolve the issue with Rock, Paper, Scissors. Best of three, of course.

events he completed, showing that he can consistently compete on par with the top seeds. For 2023, Dom’s start number was 13. Dom is just one example of the many, many privateers that race the TT each year.

After their initial qualifying, often at the Manx Grand Prix, these privateer riders

return year after year, working all year toward a fortnight in May and June. Helped only by friends and funding their own travels, their tires and racing their own bikes, despite limited budgets and time they are purely fueled by their passion for riding and the TT.

As with the riders, each trip to the TT

gives race devotees a deeper understanding of the TT itself. Instead of learning the nuances of each turn, visitors find the great places to watch and explore the transportation system, favorite pubs, and evening music venues, hoping to reunite with old friends.

Do you need a car or a motorcycle to

Motorrad factory-sponsored rider Peter Hickman, the world’s fastest road racer, launches his M 1000 RR Superstock over Ballagarey. Peter is approaching 170 mph as he works the bike back to the ground as all forces point forward. The slight dogleg to the right at the crest of this hill launches every rider. Hickman's Superstock bike, although slightly modified with race bodywork and a larger tank, is essentially the same bike that you can roll out of a dealer. On this bike, Peter set an new TT lap record of 136.358 mph.

Except for the top few sidecar teams, all sidecars are raced by privateers. Here Shaun and Ben Chandler race their 600 cc Honda-powered sidecar rig over Ballaugh Bridge.

It was a longtime dream of American Chris Sarbora to race at the TT. Failing to qualify in 2022, MotoAmerica-racer Sarbora returned for 2023. Partnering with Sam West and sponsored by Street Eats, after several mechanical issues during practice Chris was able to complete the 2023 Superbike race and averaged 118 mph for his six laps. Having met his goal, he opted out of the Superstock race and ended his TT career on a high note.

get around at the TT? Absolutely not! Depending on where you are staying, you can walk to many great viewing points. The Vannin Bus system is also outstanding, and as you meet people, you can frequently get a lift!

A few weeks in advance of this year’s TT, I emailed my mates to see if it was both possible and practical to borrow a

bike. While I have been given rides around the course, I had never ridden it. The return email said, “We’ll get that sorted out,” and indeed, we did. For the 2023 TT, I had a 2005 K 1200 S for my entire time there. I used it to ride back and forth to the grandstand and paddock and to get to my shooting positions, as well as for just going for a

ride on a few days.

How was it? Absolutely amazing and totally terrifying at the same time! The Isle of Man is visually spectacular to ride, and to think racers ride these same roads at three or four times the speed I was traveling is mind boggling.

By the way, if you need me May 27 to June 8, 2024, I will be on the Isle of Man.

Although

riders start with 10-second intervals, they can quickly bunch up. Here you can tell that James Hillier (5) has gained 20 seconds on John McGuiness (30) and 10 seconds on Jamie Coward (4).

Paul Phillips #189196, is an endurance sports photographer most often found sitting backwards on the back of his BMW F 700 GS while shooting Ironman and other triathlon events around the world. Paul has covered the Isle of Mann TT since 2017 as well as the 2012 London and 2014 Sochi Olympics. His work is regularly published in Triathlete Magazine (US), 220 Triathlon (UK), Triathlon Magazine Canada, Motorcyclist, and Cycle World. He is a three-time winner of the Triathlon industry’s annual best Published Photo Award and Canon’s Professional Networks Editor’s Choice for Sports.

Paul is also a BMW Motorrad North America Recognized Expert and works with Motorrad Dealers, presenting his UP CLOSE at the TT multimedia program. To see more of Paul’s work, follow him on Instagram @CompImagePhoto.

As important as my shooting locations, knowing where I can grab a bite to eat in case there is a delay is almost as important. Sometimes, it’s take-away and a sandwich for later in the day and sometimes it’s just coffee. Here I'm waiting for the course to reopen after a tourist ran their Porsche off the mountain.

A Rite of Passage Part 3

BY DUSTIN SILVEY #224778

PHOTOS BY JANEL SILVEY #226338

Labrador is a beautiful, unforgiving landscape. Over our past two articles, I have tried to show its wonders, along with its hazards, but I don’t think I ever stated how much we loved Labrador. It was easily one of the main highlights of our cross-Canada expedition. Having left Battle Harbour behind us, we were excited to get back on the bikes and explore more of this ruggedly beautiful landscape. Labrador seemed to have the same feelings for us, as over the next three days, it did everything in its power to keep us locked within its borders.

After a sunny ferry ride from Battle Harbour back to the bikes, we packed our gear and prepared for a short 122 km (75 mile) ride from Mary’s Harbour to West Saint Modeste. We were in high spirts after our relaxing holiday away from the bikes: our butts had a break and the aches and pains in our knees, elbows and back had been rested away. About 25 kms into our ride however, a thick fog descended over the landscape, draping the hills and road in layers of dark, damp clouds that limited our visibility to only a few metres in front of us. A cross wind then suddenly picked up, and even our fully loaded bikes were getting blown all over the road. Janel’s anxiety about riding

slowly returned so we decided to just move at a snail’s pace. Going about 40 kph (25 mph) we were getting closer to our destination; however, the wind was not easing up, nor was visibility improving.

“This sucks!” Janel, obviously distressed, called to me though our Cardos.

“It isn’t fun, that’s for sure.” I replied. “The slower we go, the longer we are out in this garbage weather, but if we speed up, we could, you know, die. I don’t think we are too far from Red Bay, maybe we should pull in there and see if we can get a hotel.”

Within moments of my suggestion, drops of rain started to hit my visor as the fog and wind mutated into fog, wind and rain. The rain was the final straw, and I could hear in Janel’s voice that she was done. I kept trying to keep her motivated with the good old “if everything goes according to plan it’s not an adventure!” talk, but she wasn’t having it. Finally, wet and grumpy after another hour of dark, wet roads, we saw the turn off to Red Bay.

With the fog and rain still coming down we couldn’t see much ahead of us. After about 300 meters, there were some people on the side of the road, and then more and more, then more just

Red bay town.

“Health is not valued until sickness comes.” ~ Thomas Fuller

walking down the middle of the road. As we honked to get them to move, we asked each other what was going on? This was a town with a population of 169 people, who were all these randoms? As we pulled up to the only hotel and restaurant in town, the “Whaler’s Station Restaurant and Cabins,” we saw hordes of people. Again, I wondered what the heck was going on? As I parked my bike, way off in the distance shrouded in the fog, I saw a massive cruise ship anchored off shore. Not having done much research on Red Bay we questioned: “Why on earth is there a cruise ship here?” The answer to that question was not a priority, we needed some food and a place to dry off.

I left Janel with the bikes and went inside to try and find out if there was somewhere we could rest for the night, as the weather wasn’t improving. After dodging hundreds of cruise goers, I spoke to the owner’s daughter who said they were fully booked for the night. “I don’t know if you have been outside,” I said, “but the weather out there isn’t great for riding a motorcycle. We are happy to just pay someone to sleep in their basement. Literally, anything will do.”

At that point she locked eyes with me, and I could see her

understand that we really just needed to get off the road. “Let me speak to my parents and I will see what I can do.”

“Dust...com….side…quick… Your…. bi……” Janel was trying to speak to me, but her outside and me inside was not conducive to the Cardos’ functionality.

I told the kind woman I would be right back, and when I walked outside, I saw my bike had tipped over in the wind and several men were trying to convince Janel to let them pick it up.

“Oh, thank God you came out. It just blew over!” She said to me.

“All good, let’s get it up.” Janel took her position standing on the rear tire as I lifted from the handle bars. As I checked over the bike, the hotel/restaurant owner came out to tell us we could stay in their basement apartment at their house. She explained that her husband “Bim” would lead us to the house, where we could unload the bikes and then he would bring us back to the restaurant in his truck to get a hot meal in us. With expressions that were a mix of gratitude, excitement, and hunger after hearing about a warm meal, Janel and I hopped on the bikes and followed Bim to our new home for the next two days.

The following day, the rain had stopped and the sun was out to warm our backs. I did a bit of maintenance on my bike after the drop (or tip over), and then we went to explore the UNESCO World Heritage site that is Red Bay (hence the cruise ship). Red Bay’s waters use to be jam packed full of right and bowhead whales and thus in the 1500s Spanish and French whalers made the area their prime hunting grounds. The history here is fascinating, but being a huge fan of whales, it made me a little sad to read about how many used to swim past this area. With whales now being a protected species in most of the world, many have returned. Even now in Red Bay, you can watch the whales in the distance splash around during sunset cruises while learning about the history of the area.

With the cruise ship gone, Janel and I wandered the quiet town and its museum, trying to understand the greed that went along with whaling. As much as I found it upsetting, I do believe it is important to understand our history, good and bad. However, about halfway through the day, I started to feel a little under the weather. My throat was sore, and my head felt like it was loaded full of cement. Janel and I were supposed to head out on one of the sunset cruises, but I told her she should just go as I was in rough shape and feared I could get other people ill as we were still in the late chapters of COVID-19. After some convincing, Janel headed off on the sunset cruise.

She returned a few hours later to see me curled up in bed looking like death had taken my soul a little earlier than planned. To try to brighten my spirits, she told me stories of the cruise where a woman sang beautiful traditional Labrador songs and played her guitar and she watched the sun set over the land as the yellow and orange glow radiated off the calm ocean in the bay. Her story made me happy, and before she and I both knew it, I was sound asleep.

In the morning, I awoke with some sweats and knew I had full blown COVID-19. The only thing I could think of were the cruise passengers–I must have picked it up from them as we had not

spent much time around anyone since leaving Ontario.

I pulled up our Excel sheet with our route on it and saw we had an 80 km (50 mile) ride to Blanc-Sablon, Quebec, where we would catch our ferry to Newfoundland. From there, we had another 117 km (72 mile) ride to a house we had rented in Englee, Newfoundland. This ride was likely to be on some of the worst paved roads Newfoundland has to offer. Realizing this was not the day to be attempting this ride, I called Labrador Marine Inc, to change our reservation and was told the next possible ferry with room for us was a week away.

“I don’t think you can ride Dustin,” Janel said, with a look of concern on her face.

“What other choice do I have?” I croaked. “We can’t stay here a week, we have too many things booked that we can’t change at this point. Let’s just get moving,” I stated while rolling myself off the bed. Janel accepted this with a sour look.

Once we got moving, I actually felt a lot better. The fresh air and the nice weather did me some good. We stopped at a small market where Janel went in and bought snacks and food for us to

Singer on the sunset cruise.

Whale tail in Red bay.

cook once we arrived in our house that evening, and we headed the last few kilometres to the ferry terminal. Once Janel had checked us in at the office, I took off my helmet, wrapped two masks around my face, and sprawled out on the pavement next to the bikes awaiting the ferry which was already over an hour late.

“Hey Dustin,” I suddenly heard from above me.

I opened my eyes to see the shadow of a man silhouetted in the sun. I sat up and realized it was Peter, from Battle Harbour.

“I thought,” he continued, “Dustin is either excessively hung over, or he is in rough shape.”

We laughed about me feeling like someone had removed my brain and poured thick oatmeal into my empty skull cavity, and I warned him I likely had COVID-19. He kept his distance but then mentioned he had some of those buns from Battle Harbour and knowing how much we loved them, he gave Janel a few for us to take on the ferry. As Peter said his goodbyes and invited us to return to Battle Harbour one day in the future, a few more motorcycles pulled up to wait for the already very late ferry.

The first two bikes to pull up were two gentleman who were riding across North America. Interestingly enough, I recognized one of them from the BMW MOA Facebook group. I had seen Michael’s posts on the group and messaged him to see if we could meet up along the way. He didn’t think we would overlap, but low and behold, we ended up at the ferry at the same time. We exchanged some stories while we waited and he snapped a few photographs. It is always great to run into fellow BMW MOA members.

The next person to pull up was Paul from Montreal. I was looking at his 90/10 road tires on his 650 Versys, and asked, “Did you ride Route 389 on those?” His reply was an astounding yes; he then went into details about his journey to Labrador.

Paul explained that he and three of his friends left Montreal together to ride Route 389 and the Trans-Labrador Highway into Newfoundland, across Nova Scotia, and back to Montreal. Everything was going according to plan until Paul ended up getting ahead of them when Route 389 turned to gravel and was waiting for them at the one gas station on the route. He waited over an hour and they never arrived. Deciding something must be wrong, he headed back towards Manic-Cinq to find out what had happened. It turned out his friends all had similar tires, and in the first big corner, one of them took a spill, the bike flipped, landed on him, and broke his back. He needed to be Heli-extracted back to Montreal for surgery. The other two friends decided to head back, but Paul didn’t think he could do much, so he carried on.

At hearing this, Janel and I just looked at each in shock. This was one of those moments where we really took the time to calculate how lucky we were to not only to be cautious, but to have the right gear for the ride.

The ferry finally arrived, and as with most ferries: motorcycles go on first. However, unlike most ferries, they don’t put all the motorcycles together. I ended up at the starboard bow, and Janel ended up at the starboard stern, with about a hundred cars in-between us. After tying my bike down, I ran back to help

Janel with hers. Once hers was tied down, we grabbed some water and headed towards the main decks. Not wanting to risk getting anyone sick, I walked up the stairs and out onto one of the outside viewing decks, where I curled up on the ground while the ferry carried us to Newfoundland. Janel grabbed a warm hot chocolate and came and sat beside me on the metal deck. Every now and then while enjoying her chocolaty goodness with one of Peter’s buns, Janel would check on me to make sure I would still be able to do the last part of our ride that day. I was able to sleep a bit in the cool wind, and when we arrived at the terminal on Newfoundland, I was set to wrap up this long day.

The first issue was of course, figuring out how to reunite with my wife once off the ferry. I was the first one off and at the first gas station I saw, I pulled in to wait for Janel. Since I lost contact with Janel on our Cardos the moment I got off the ferry, I just kept repeating, “can you hear me?” My biggest concern was she would fly by me without me noticing (this happened when we were in Vietnam, a whole other story…).

Finally, with a little crackle I heard: “Yes… w..here..are.. you?”

Once fueled up, we went to tackle the final road. By this time, it was well past 4 p.m. and the clouds were starting to look unfriendly. The winding road to Englee started off well enough, but for the final 80 km (50 miles), it was a complete pothole mess. We constantly had to slow to avoid smashing out bikes though the holes, and as the illness slowly took hold of my body, my patience started to waiver.

“Why don’t they FIX THESE ROADS!” I complained to no one in particular. Janel all the while remained calm, knowing I was just tired and needed to get into a bed.

Meeting another MOA member (yes I look rough).

Finally, within a few kilometres of Englee we saw a pharmacy. Janel went in and bought me some Tylenol to help with my symptoms. Once in Englee, we saw small fishing houses lining the water and running up the small ridge over the open ocean. The roads were no better here, but with no traffic, it made for an easy ride to the Viking Moose Airbnb.

The whole point of booking this place for three days was to have a quiet rest after our 15-day marathon, Route 389 and the Trans-Labrador Highway. Boy, was I going to need it. The first night, I had some of the worst sweats I had ever experienced and the following day I lay in bed and watched Netflix while trying to drink as much Gatorade as possible.

By the third day there, I was feeling better and seeing that Janel was still sleeping I decided to have a shower. I came out feeling refreshed and wrapped in a towel I went into Janel’s room to tell her the news. She sat up, and I noticed she looked a little pale. “Dustin, I don’t feel so good.”

Not again…

Dustin grew up in Quesnel, British Columbia, and began riding on the back of his father's motorcycle many years ago. He has a doctorate of Community Health with a speciality in Indigenous health. He currently works several contract positions with Indigenous organizations across Canada. Dustin's publication credits include The Globe and Mail, CBC, and Vice News, along with several extreme sport magazines such as Explore, Sidetracked, Canoe and Kayak, and Paddle Magazine.

Dustin and Janel currently live in Powell River, British Columbia.

Things to do and places to stay along this section of the Labrador Highway and Newfoundland:

Whaler’s Station, Red Bay: Obviously, Marilyn and Bim don’t give up their basement apartment regularly. If you are planning on visiting Red Bay, book one of their cabins located right on the waterfront. The lovely cabins have everything you need, and they will make your stay an enjoyable one. You might even see a whale or two. For only $145/night ($110 USD) you can’t go wrong. redbaywhalers.ca/home/

Whaler’s Quest Ocean Adventures: Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to go along for this boat ride, but Janel had a fantastic time. She sailed around Red Bay with the kind crew, while listening to live music, and enjoying the sunset. She said it was a must do in the area. Cost is $70/person ($53 USD) and the ride lasts about 1.5 hours.

Ferry to Newfoundland: I cannot be clear enough on this, book your ferry in advance. Ferries fill up and they do NOT give priority to motorcycles here. Go to lmsi.woodwardgroup.ca/ and book the Straight of Belle Isle ferry. Book FAR in advance. Cost is $18 ($13.75 USD) for the rider and motorcycle.

Englee: The small fishing town is worth checking out if you just want to take a break. It is close to St. Anthony, which is famous for icebergs and whales but far more inexpensive to stay. The town is loaded with true friendly Newfoundlanders that will go out of their way to make your stay a pleasant one. Don’t expect any action here, but if you are looking for a place to rest, you found it. Google “Viking Moose Airbnb” to find the accommodations we stayed in. You get the whole house for $99 ($75 USD) plus fees per night, and it has two large bedrooms along with kitchen facilities.

If you want to see some footage from our time riding to or at Battle Harbour you can on YouTube at Lost in Gear, or images on Instagram @lostingear.

Red Bay coastline.

Time Travelers

BY ROBERT MCISAAC #10494

After what appeared to be Biblical rains yesterday, Saturday in central North Carolina dawned with beautiful sun, light wispy clouds, and roads that dried as if they’d been hit with a Magic Eraser. Good news indeed, since I had planned a hop with local Beemer brethren.

When I got to the hanger, I had a key decision to make. Heads we’d go German, tails Italian. The Goose won out on this day, although the Toaster’s turn will no doubt come next week. The Le Mans was originally purchased by my dad in May 1980, so a good hop seemed a nice way to celebrate her 43rd birthday. I’m sure dad would have approved.

Fuel on. Choke engaged. Ignition hot. A touch of the starter and the twin exploded into life and settled into her typical, comforting idle with a lovely burble from the exhaust that was fitted for a date with the Battle of the Twins at Daytona in 1981.

One of my father’s more endearing skills was a remarkable ability to turn money into noise, according to my mother. In this case, apparently, the band continues to play on endlessly. Out on the road, the Le Mans makes a lot more valve train noise than a typical airhead BMW. For a while this seems to inspire short shifting and care since everything about this bike is now made from unobtanium. That angst eventually fades however, and the Goose encourages you to “give her the spurs.” Healthy twists of the throttle reward you with magical induction noises and inspired acceleration.

After a brief stop in Wendell for some coffee and a pit stop, we were off for a spirted jaunt across four counties. It’s an interesting time in the farming communities. The amber waves of grain are real now, ready for harvest. Meanwhile, on the other side of the lane, both tobacco and corn are making haste to take

advantage of the rapidly lengthening days. Biggest traffic issues today included an array of tractor kit that was out working between the fields, a steady stream of vintage pickup trucks headed to a festival in the town of Sims, and migratory turtles. The latter are particularly problematic because they are perfectly camouflaged to make them hard to see on the winding ribbons of asphalt that crisscross the area. While I was doing all of this, a mate was at an airshow in eastern North Carolina where the featured warbird was a recently restored P-51 Mustang. The plane had a tie to an American pilot from the Old North State who flew with the 8th Airforce in England during World War II. There was a great picture that reminded me of my dad’s time in the USAF as a crew chief in a P-51 squadron during the Korean War. The sound of a Rolls Royce/Packard Merlin V-12 still is pure magic. Much like the Guzzi, which still looks great from every angle now. Even in a reflection.

He joined the BMW MOA in 1977, shortly after acquiring a LWB R 60/5. Since then, a series of airhead and oilhead Beemers have graced his garage, all built in the 20th century. His enjoyment of motorcycling, and in particular BMW’s, is directly traced to the day his father brought home a new R 90/6. In his spare time, he now joyfully spends time with his four grandchildren who are intrigued with his fascination with two-wheeled motoring. The latest project is a recently “adopted” 1979 R 100 RS.

Rob McIsaac (#10494) lives and plays in Clayton, North Carolina, a part of the Research Triangle Park Region.

ONE TICKET

AND YOUR BMW MOTORCYCLE DREAMS COME TRUE!

It only takes one ticket. On October 28, 2023, the winning ticket will be drawn in the BMW MOA Foundation’s One Ticket and You Pick It fundraiser. The winning ticket holder will have their pick of any new BMW motorcycle in the lineup along with all the factory installed goodies. It’s a prize package worth $38,750!

Order tickets online for $25 each or get five for $100. Tickets are on sale through October 23rd at bmwmoaf.org or scan the QR code for easy ordering. You just might ride away on the bike of your dreams!

Only on a Bike, Part 3

The other day I was tooling down a suburban street and noticed a family with a couple kids walking toward the crosswalk. Suddenly, one of the kids, a boy probably about 10 or 11, sprinted to the corner, looked at me expectantly and started twisting his cupped right hand up and down, a gesture I interpreted as a plea for me to rev my bike. I complied, though the sound of my little Kawasaki isn’t exactly awe-inspiring, and I was greeted by a big smile from the boy. A tiny moment, but it brought a smile to my face also, a fresh reminder that there are still kids out there with the same yearn for a bike I had when I was wheel-less. I doubt this same moment will ever be repeated when I’m cruising by in my Subaru, but it’s one more example of experiences that can happen “only on a bike.” Here are three more MOA members who shared their unique experiences:

“Many years ago, when both of our kids were very young, we picked up a sidecar for our 1982 Honda Goldwing in order to keep riding as a family. On day two of a two-week trip on the Wing/ sidecar combo, we hit rain in British

Columbia. We put the tonneau cover on the sidecar so both of the kids were pretty well protected. My wife and I just donned our rain suits and slogged on through. Stopping at a provincial rest area near Castlegar, B.C., to use the facilities, we noticed that several local families were there for a Sunday afternoon get-together and had commandeered the park pavilion for a huge barbecue. They saw our family getting out of the rig and immediately invited us to get out of the rain and come join them, telling us that they had all kinds of food to share with us.

We got to enjoy hamburgers, grilled chicken, salads and all of the trimmings, including Cinnabon rolls for dessert. Had we been in an automobile I’m sure this would never have happened. We did find on that trip that it was impossible to make a lot of miles in a day, as every time we stopped, we attracted crowds of people wanting to see this anomaly carrying a family of four.” -Paul Fifeld #86371

“Every year, my five riding buddies and I take a weeklong trip to another part of the country. Some years we ride our own

bikes and other times, like on our trip to Colorado in 2016, we would fly and rent. At the time, I owned a Victory Vision and was looking forward to trying out a BMW R 1200 RT rental for my “Rocky Mountain High.” Although I had never ridden a BMW, it was the model I was considering for my next bike. The rental agent made a point of telling me how well it would do in the mountains and that I should give it a good flogging. The engine had what I thought was an unusually loud ticking sound, but he said that it was perfectly normal.

Three days later, on our route from Aspen to Ouray, going through the McClure Pass, the ticking got worse, and the bike started smoking, spewing oil and losing power. Quickly able to get to a scenic pullout, I hopped off the bike and started removing my luggage and Zumo, thinking they might go up in flames. Of course, there was no cell service in the middle of nowhere. We had not seen another vehicle all day, yet as we started loading my stuff onto the other bikes, a young couple touring in their car stopped when they saw the smoldering motorcycle. It turned out they were also heading to Ouray and offered to give me a lift. We left the bike there, and my friends continued on two wheels in sweltering 90-degree temps while I had the luxury of driving with my new friends in air-conditioned comfort. That evening, in town, I treated them to a gourmet dinner while we relived the day and got to know each other better. I will never forget their kindness.

The rental company delivered a Harley Road Glide as a replacement the next day, and the difference was like going from a Thoroughbred to a Clydesdale. The postscript to this episode is that I didn’t let the mechanical disaster deter me, and in 2017 I purchased my first BMW, an R 1200 RT that has been absolutely flawless.” -Alan B. Kane #215588.

It was an unusually hot April day in 1982 when, with the wife riding pillion on

Paul Fifeld and the crew on the road again.

our R 100, we left our home in Lexington, Ohio, for a leisurely ride east into Coshocton County. Eventually, we stopped for coffee and pastries in Roscoe Village, a restored 19thcentury canal boat town where specialty shops lined both sides of White Woman Street.

It was here I disturbed a yellowjacket wasp that showed its displeasure by stinging my right hand, which soon became painful and swollen. When we left there for home the temperature had reached 90 degrees. We were on SR 39 about 40 miles from home when I heard a loud “bang” and the bike became uncontrollable. The rear tire had had a blowout and we veered off the road down an embankment, straight toward a barbed wire fence.

Somehow, I managed to get stopped just inches from the fence, but the effort had cost me; I now had a wrenched knee. With a painful swollen hand and a painful swollen knee, I managed to patch the tube which had been punctured by a horseshoe nail (we were in Amish country) and inflated it using the pump

which BMW used to provide. The tube of cement had been almost empty, so I didn’t trust it to hold and drove cautiously. Good thing. A couple miles down the road the tire went flat again, thankfully not a blowout.

We were still out in the country, but across the road was an old house way back off the road with a large shade tree in the front lawn. The house appeared to be empty, so we pushed the bike across the road and under the tree where I again removed the rear wheel. The patch had come loose but with no cement how was I to repair the tube? Just then, a very old

man with a cane came hobbling toward us. Embarrassed for believing the house to be empty, I explained what had happened and why I was using his tree for shade. He said it was okay and started for the house saying he would be right back. When he returned, he brought a tube of cement and a patch. Then he told me to give him the tube and proceeded to patch it. When my wife told him that he was a real angel, he just gave her an enigmatic smile. His patch held, and we made it home with no more problems.

-Robert Lardinais  #15772.

MOTORCYCLE PARADISE: HIT THE ROADS OF SPAIN!

Alan Kane tilts his way down the Tail of the Dragon on his much-loved 2017 RT.

A Perfectly Believable Story with a Happy Ending

A click of the key brought the bike to a sputtering stop, succumbing to a silence like a clear fog that masked sound rather than vision. The silence was the numbness of being on a high place, with nothing to reflect sound back to the source. The rider remained motionless in the saddle, listening for anything to indicate he’d been followed or that he’d disturbed someone else who’d rather remain anonymous. There was only the sound of the wind planting rumors in the trees. Satisfied he was alone, the rider dismounted, and in a ritual that transcended centuries, he drained the lizard.

This was the culmination of six hard hours in the saddle, a run measured by obscure landmarks, unseen risks and a faint sloshing of fuel between the two jerry cans lashed to the back. He’d planned this trip to the ounce and was now close to fumes. The ride was tough enough in daylight, but it was madness in the dark or the fog. The rider arrived just as the last vestige of daylight left, allowing him the luxury of not having to switch on the headlight. Light in places where there should be no light is seldom good news.

His destination was visible as a ring of dim yellow light, spilling from the windows of buildings arranged in a circle, on the opposite shoulder of a valley, far below. So far below that this ring of light could have fit on a woman’s finger. That there was any light at all from this settlement marked a change for the better. There was a time when light would have attracted raiders and thugs.

It was surprisingly crisp for the time of year, late spring and mist free, which was also surprising, considering the location, high atop the mountains on the remains of the old Blue Ridge Parkway. The parkway had another name now–The Trail–as it was little more than an

overgrown track littered by islands of isolated pavement, nearly erased by 147 winters since the collapse of the old order in 2030. The Blue Ridge Parkway had become the preferred route of smugglers, cutthroats and murderers. The rider knew many of them by name and all by reputation.

Tucked away in a depression that hid his activity from eyes far below and even from the trail itself, the rider’s shelter was a tarp attached to the motorcycle. Light came from a grease candle in a brass sleeve. Two tiny grouse breasts sizzled over a miserly twig and bark fire that burned in a hole parallel to another hole that served as a chimney. The grouse had made the mistake of flying into the rider’s front wheel earlier in the day. The rest of the meal was a potato-like tuber he’d gotten from another settlement a day ago. He drank water from a wooden vessel that was two hollowed-out pieces of swollen oak held together by a metal band. Neither bottle nor barrel, it leaked and after slaking his thirst, the rider didn’t have enough left over to wash his face.

He slept fitfully, getting up a couple of times to listen to the wind. The moon set shadows dancing in the trees, and he was reminded of the men he’d killed on trips like this and the men who’d nearly killed him. Dawn arrived with no surprises and that was the nicest surprise of all. Breakfast was a handful of dry oats, salt and a wax honeycomb, yet without water to boil the grain, there was no point to it. Besides, there would be better options at the settlement.

He donned his riding gear, battling the thick, leather-trimmed, canvas pants and jacket. His boots were rough-out leather, smeared with paraffin waterproofing. His helmet was vintage, battered and agency issued, carrying the roundel that marked him as a “Roamer.”

In the year 2177, “Roamers” were a force commissioned by “National,” to patrol settlements now connected by a rudimentary road system, essential for basic trade, making it possible for people to share commercial specialties and to move crops after the harvests. The “Roamer” was the equivalent of the Justice of The Peace, the sheriff, the arbitrator of contractual difficulties, and from time to time, the executioner. He did this carrying no weapons. Settlements bucking the judgement of a Roamer were simply cut off from trade. No one wanted to live like that. Roamer authority was seldom questioned, but Roamers occasionally disappeared, too. Society had devolved into a near tribal existence following the 100 Year Ukrainian Setback, The Taiwan Reckoning, the Woke War, the collapse of the dollar, the 25-year drought, and the Revenge of the Artificial Intelligence. It was the last one that nearly exterminated humankind. Global corporations raced to boost profits and cut manufacturing expenses (largely through the elimination of human labor) by relying on strategic execution of systems management by Artificial Intelligence. To the average person, Artificial Intelligence was a kind of computer game or an application like Facebook. They installed it everywhere, following the release of an AI program that would allow subscribers to see anybody naked.

This was about the same time that the Fong Goo Roundei (pronounced “RoundEye”) Corporation, a division of the Chinese military, announced it had fused the power of AI with a human personality.

Came the day when a third-tier computer system felt spurned by a tech with whom it had fallen in love, and the unit systematically began throwing

switches in a tantrum. Within a day, hospital computers rattled off random diagnoses. Two days after that, electronic banking ended. Global stock markets recorded precipitous drop offs. In a week, most of the world had been plunged into darkness. It was felt first and worst in the towering cities, where the elevators, subways, and drinking water systems all failed at the same time. On “Black Thursday,” 400 commercial aircraft were reported missing. The head of the U.S. government–an idiot on his best day–was isolated in a dark, unventilated bunker 200 feet below the burning White House, where he died, surrounded by his closest advisors, who also died, trying to open the door.

The world plunged into chaos, starting with its most sophisticated cities.

It would take 100 years for AI to commit suicide, a very human condition, and for humanity to emerge from the rubble. Now there were settlements that specialized in growing wheat. Others surrounded by orchards, while a few raised pigs, cows or chickens. There were even settlements that spun cloth or distilled whiskey–all connected by shattered, mapless roads–patrolled by Roamers. Several of settlements produced coal, kerosine and gasoline, for warmth, light and mobility.

Collective knowledge is always a survivor to man-made catastrophes. Yet in the years of the endless winters, humans burned books by the ton, just to stay warm. Now they were relearning things the hard way.

That the Roamer rode a BMW R bike was no coincidence. The R bike was the simplest of all motorcycle’s, with only 123 moving parts. Most of these parts could be forged in the rudimentary foundries. Nearly all iron, steel and aluminum came from melted scrap, though electric parts

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like chemical batteries, alternators, spark plugs and stators were made in secret by the High Order of Mystics (mechanics). Young children disappeared into the windowless structures of the mystics, only to emerge as “Air Headers” (journey men) when they were 25. It was rumored that the mystics would kill anyone attempting to learn their secrets. Sizable settlements had mystic temples governed by an elder, a person who knew more about R bikes than any living person. These elders were known as “The Parkhouse.”

The ancient R bike ran flawlessly, providing more horsepower than one would anticipate from a 125-year-old motorcycle. The metal work on this R bike was a unique combination of exposed welds, rust, and primer. The faded saddle was the best a local tanner could do. This one bore the scars of hard use and was worn “wafer thin” at the metal fittings.

The Roamer rolled into the settlement without fanfare. It was the etiquette of the day to ignore Roamers unless they asked a direct question. By nature of their position, Roamers were denied friends and romantic attachments. They were not allowed to enter business deals, nor to own property. Roamers couldn’t accept gifts or gratuities. When entering a settlement, Roamers were to be provided with isolated accommodations and provisions sufficient enough to complete their mission.

Assigned a cottage by a creek, the Roamer savored a late breakfast of seared trout, early season tubers and dried fruit porridge. It was better than the breakfast in his saddle bag. The cottage adjoined a small shed containing cans of the precious gasoline. The Roamer/National seals were unbroken on the cans, and he carefully filled the gas tank and both Jerry cans. There was a stained rag in the funnel, to filter twigs, dirt, and dead beetles out of the fuel.

From a locked box he retrieved a report from the last Roamer to visit here. It read, “Brayley Somes is the local witch. Incredible green eyes. I tried to think of a good reason to take her with me. Don’t

trust these people, as they are assholes.”

This rider had been a Roamer for 38 years, seasoned by hundreds of thousands of miles, 38 years of keeping to the shadows, three decades plus eight years of protecting little settlements like this one. A whole adult lifetime of walking past pretty women without so much as batting an eye. A career of sleeping under tarps, waiting to be attacked by the lawless. This would be his last visit to this settlement as he would begin his retirement in three hours and 23 minutes.

The dash clock on the R bike had been running backwards for the past 12 months. Soon, he would reap the rewards promised to all Roamers: peace, food, drink, comfort and, perhaps, the love of a woman. He hoped he would get to keep the bike. He had an idea for making a distilled liquor from rye and storing it in glass. He just had one more case to settle. Naturally, it was a stinker.

A local woman–Brayley Somes–was accused of witchcraft, shape-changer worship and probable murder. A notation from the local mystics, the exalted Parkhouse no less, urged execution. Three local men had gone missing, and she was accused of summoning a shape-changer to carry them off. Remote settlements occasionally yielded to superstitions, and it was “National’s” policy not to interfere, unless the option was genocide or war between settlements. This place feared shape-changers, magical killers whose existence could not be proved nor disproved. This woman’s goose was cooked.

The evidence against her was flimsy. She was found in the woods, bruised and tied to a tree. She had no idea what happened to the three men and stuck to her story about a “shape-changer,” who, in a savage burst of light became something else and disappeared.

The prosecutor was not the Parkhouse, but one of his stooge acolytes. It was argued the woman led the men into the woods, where the “shape changer” devoured their souls. Several villagers testified what they knew about shape

changers—which was based on what they heard from a far-off cousin or distant relative—which was dutifully written into the proceedings. It was generally acknowledged that single women, who survived and thrived without men, were exactly the type who would know how to summon a shape-changer. The court was held in the livestock auction building, which despite being swept with buckets of water, still smelled like pig shit. The Roamer thought the fragrance lent a good deal of substance to the charges.

As the list of charges and this woman’s responses drew to a close, the Roamer ventured a question: “How is it you came to be tied to a tree?”

Before she answered, the stooge prosecutor droned, “It is well-know that the familiars of shape-changers tie themselves to trees to allay suspicion and to prevent from having their souls taken by the spirits they serve.”

“Really,” said the Roamer. Looking toward the woman, he asked, “Can you tie yourself to a tree now?”

Again, before the prisoner could answer, the prosecutor explained, “These evil ones can only muster the strength to perform these tricks once a year.”

“How true,” responded the Roamer.

The charges were made…The evidence was heard…All that remained was the sentencing.

“Before I pass sentence,” intoned the Roamer, “I wish to be alone with the prisoner.”

This statement raised gasps as the crowd of several hundred were in the mood for an immediate execution.

“This is somewhat irregular,” said prosecutor, puffing up like an enraged hamster.

“It is what I want…Somewhat irregular is what will happen to you if you question my authority,” said the Roamer. The auction hall emptied like an upended bucket.

Turning to the prisoner, the Roamer asked, “Why didn’t you just admit three goons dragged you into the woods and tied you to a tree?”

The woman sat on the reeking ground with bound hands and feet, wearing torn clothing, exposing her in a way that was more flattering than humiliating. Even at this disadvantage, there was something about her: muscular from a hard life of living alone, square jawed and with a face of inconsequential features–until they worked together. She had dangerously green eyes. You would never notice her in a crowd of pretty women, then you would see no others. The only word to describe here was “austere.” She was as beautiful as the naked steel of a dagger.

She regarded the Roamer with an air of resigned misery, as if he was just another itch she couldn’t scratch.

“It’s bad enough being the village crazy lady and witch,” she said. “They imprisoned me until you got here. As the town whore, they would have killed me.”

“Well, either way, you’re not ahead of the game at the moment. What happened to the three goons?”

“I told them I’d summoned a shapechanger to take them,” she said, with a grim smile. “They fled through the woods and hid in a cave.”

“So, they’re still alive?”

“Not exactly. I told them the cave was the only place the shape-changer couldn’t go, and they ran into it. It was one of places where the burning black rocks used to be found. There is something wrong with the air in there. It kills all living things.”

“So, they are dead?” asked the Roamer.

The prisoner smiled.

“Let’s get this over with,” said the Roamer.

The crowd surged into the auction hall like a tide. They were out for blood.

“For the charges of witchcraft and summoning a shape-changer to imperil this settlement, I find this woman–Brayley Somes–guilty. The sentence is death, by boiling alive in chemical solvent, the only way known to render the spirit of a witch.”

A cheer rose from the town.

“Silence,” roared the Roamer. “For the lives of the missing men there can be no

charges as there are no bodies. They may yet turn up. The property of the accused—one stone house with barn, pastures, cows and fowl, and sundry furnishings, tools, etc.—will pass to the administration of National, until otherwise posted. An inventory of the same has been presented by the prisoner. The prisoner will be lashed to my bike, upright and unharmed, for immediate transport and execution by National.”

The crowd had grown silent for the second part of the sentence. They wouldn’t see the execution. And there were some who had plans for the distribution of the property of Brayley Somes. They weren’t happy either.

The Roamer’s commission had just one hour and 23 minutes left. He wanted to be clear of this place when his time ran out, and there was still a report to leave for his replacement. As he expected, the official who served as mayor and the stooge from the Mystics approached him as the trial ended. They were protesting an off-site execution and the disposition of the prisoner’s property.

The Roamer made a pretense of listening, then raised his hands to silence both. Speaking to the Mystic stooge, he said: “Certainly you are aware that only boiling in solvent can dissolve the malevolent spirit of the prisoner, right?”

The Mystic slowly nodded. Actually, he knew nothing of the sort, as the Roamer was making this up, just as the Mystic had made up the nonsense about how the woman got tied to the tree.

“Do you have any of the special solvent here?” asked the Roamer, already knowing the answer. “The prisoner has to come with me before the whole community is infected. If I hadn’t arrived when I did, half this town would be missing.” The mayor trembled…The Mystic acquired the shrewd look of a cornered rat.

“But I did learn this,” said the Roamer, adopting the stance of a conspirator. “Just outside the prisoner’s compound is a faint trail leading to a cave. The prisoner has used this cave to stash a bag of gold coins, precious unguents she has

prepared, and a rare cream to extend a man’s love muscle both in length and endurance. You two will go into the cave and get all of it. We’ll split it when I get back. Tell the townspeople you are going up to the prisoner’s compound to seal it.”

The two officials left at a near run. The promise of gold would have been good enough but the rare love cream sealed the deal. The Roamer left a brief report to his successor, in the locked box that opened only with a folding ignition key. The report read, “I took the girl. Stay out of the cave.”

There was 45 minutes left on the clock when the Roamer fired up the bike, to which Brayley Somes was cruelly lashed. The Roamer headed out on the fractured remains of Route 10, pulling into a little clearing by a stream with seven minutes to go. His first act facing retirement was to cut the woman loose.

“You know they have no intentions of letting us get away,” said Brayley Somes. “You’ll just be another Roamer lost on a ride, and I’ll be entertainment for an hour or two.”

She had no sooner said these words than the air was filled with a strange kind of buzzing: the sound of ten R bikes all hitting 40 miles per hour. These were bikes the mystics had been working on. “You’ll find the road blocked up ahead and they’ll catch us,” said Brayley Somes.

“You have a choice,” said the Roamer. “I can set you free to take your chances, or you can come with me.”

Brayley Somes smiled for the first time and said, “Either way, neither one of us is ahead of the game.”

At that moment, the dashboard clock on the old R bike emitted a strange tone, and counted down from 10 seconds to 00:00 and nothing happened. The Roamer glanced around, astounded and disappointed that everything had remained the same.

The Roamer straddled the bike and tried to turn the key. It no longer moved to the right. The droning of the R bikes was closer now. Brayley Somes picked up a good-sized rock. She’d take a few of

them with her. The Roamer loved her spirit.

The digital numbers on the clock had yielded to an icon of a key, and an arrow pointing left.

He turned the key to the left and there was an explosion of light. Brilliant light without heat and white light that became an aura borealis on the edges. There was the sound of wind, but nothing was disturbed. At first, the light wrapped around the Roamer, then it passed through him, before it found her. There was a crack of thunder, and all went dark.

Only the motorcycle glowed. It glowed through a lustrous aura of flawless black paint and endless layers of lacquer, etched in red pin-striping, the color of blood from a fallen saint. The engine–a mighty six-cylinder behemoth–idled with the purr of a prehistoric predator, never sputtering nor missing a beat. The seat looked like leather but was it something else that conformed to the butt that pressed against it.

Brayley Somes re-planted her butt on the pillion and marveled at the sensation of the seat. It was firm, yet pliable. Warm and comforting, it seemed to massage her derriere with subtle deference.

“This seat is amazing,” sighed Brayley Somes.

The Roamer merely nodded. The pillion’s surface connected to the palm of his right riding glove through a wireless interface. He’d explain this to her later, or not. Gone was his leather reinforced canvas riding gear. In its place was a seamless, leather-like body armor that fastened in front by a 15th generation of the zipper. It was waterproof, windproof, knife proof, damn-near bullet proof and guaranteed to resist melting in a 300-foot high speed drag. The Roamer’s boots molded themselves around his feet.

Brayley Somes looked at the Roamer in awe… and then with fear. “You’re… You’re… You’re a shape changer,” she stammered. She would have swooned had she been an average woman, but there was nothing average about her.

(Author’s note: I have never known any average women… Only below average men.)

He shifted on the seat to face her and said, “I am a K-Zar, the forerunner of destiny. I offer you a future of wonder, of justice, of knowledge and above all, torque. Six cylinders of it.”

And she saw his gear sported a badge that was fashioned like a shield, deflecting lightning, against the legend “K-Zar.”

“Oh mighty K-Zar,” said Brayley Somes biting her lower lip. “Do you have a name?”

He did, but it was Walter, and that didn’t seem quite up to the occasion. “You may call me Captain Carbonite, or Jack for short.”

Brayley shifted her bite from her lower lip to his, knowing she would call him many things in the months to come, though Captain Carbonite wouldn’t be among them. That name would take a little work, but at least it wasn’t something really douchie, like Stanley or Walter. And the bike was a real dazzler, too. Maybe this guy would fall asleep someplace, leaving the keys in it.

“I hate to break this up,” said Brayley, “but the mob is almost upon us.”

The K-Zar merely jazzed the throttle, which caused six cadmium rods to emerge from a nuclear soup. This unleashed a wolf-like howling that dissolved the souls of black-hearted men. A quarter of a mile away, five R bike journeymen fell out of their saddles like it was a choreographed Olympic event. The other five plowed into the ditch that served as a primary sanitation channel for the settlement.

“Where are we going?” asked Brayley.

The K-Zay tapped the navigational screen, which revealed one word: Destiny.”

“Is that a metaphor?” queried Brayley.

“No, it’s a place in New Jersey that has recently discovered how to make gin and ice.”

“We’re burning daylight,” said Brayley.

This highly factual account was made possible to the readers of Jack Riepe through the vision of the MOA and through the misguided generosity of BestRest Product, manufacturers of the CyclePump and the EZ Air Tire Gauge, plus the boundless misplaced support of the Kermit Chair Company, your source for the iconic folding camp chair for nearly half a century.

Without specifically mentioning that the machine in this story is a BMW K1600, its identity was never in doubt as it is associated with raw power, the unforgettable whine of the engine, and the exceptional cleverness of the rider: a legendary shape-changer—who rode into the sunset with an extraordinary woman, armed with staggeringly beautiful green eyes.

It should be stated that while these results are typical for BMW K-bike riders, other conclusions—like horsepower envy, fluctuations in manly attributes, and the inability to attract the attention of women (other than those prone to relentless criticism) are commonly reported by riders of iconic Teutonic, two-cylinder motorcycles of a horizontally opposed nature.

A Note from The Author:

The MOA makes my columns possible in this magazine and joins BestRest Products (manufacturers of the CyclePump) and The Kermit Chair Company (your source for the iconic folding camp chair) for supporting my other appearances and my literary threads on FaceBook — and soon to be announced Substack column.

Cheap Thrills

Most motorcyclists know the old adage, “It’s more fun to go fast on a slow bike than slow on a fast bike,” or as one of my riding buddies says, “The smaller the bike, the bigger the grins.” These quips contain real truths about the joys delivered by many lightweight motorcycles, which often make up for their shortage of ponies with much maneuverability and user-friendliness. It’s also true bikes with modest power, low seats and unintimidating heft are much easier to learn on, allowing riders to focus on mastering technique instead of their fear of falling. Additionally, small motorcycles tend to be far less expensive to buy, maintain, and repair than their larger, fancier cousins, especially if not adorned with fragile plastic bodywork.

The downside of entry-level machinery is a function of this same economy. Manufacturers cut costs by equipping such bikes with simple components, like suspensions and brakes that lack cutting-edge technical sophistication or entire feature categories. Noteworthy examples from the past include Honda’s Hawk GT and Suzuki’s SV650, both of which had reasonably peppy, bulletproof motors housed in sweet-handling chasses, held back by budget forks and shocks. Either of these motorcycles could be improved dramatically by just modifying or replacing its suspenders. The same can be said of BMW’s diminutive G 310 R. It’s also better looking than the aforementioned specimens, despite having a motor less than half as large.

Having owned and upgraded both Honda and Suzuki models, I recently bought the third of these gems, albeit one with many of its stock limitations already addressed.

I had just sold my last trials bike, which I’d used over the years to hone my off-road skills. I no longer had a mid-sized street bike in my stable and wanted something for parking lot drills–a sort of trials bike for pavement, something easier to learn on and less consequential to drop than my big road burners. I’ve been increasingly conscious of my need for low-speed training and practice. Just as there was more development necessary when transferring lessons from trials bikes to my full-sized dirt bikes, I knew I couldn’t switch from a small street

machine to my other road bikes without adjustment. I also knew practicing on a little motorcycle would leave less to master elsewhere, and it wouldn’t involve as much risk of busting costly parts. If I was going small, why not go really small to maximize these advantages?

In the past, that question has been answered by my techno-geek side, which gets queasy about primitive, economical componentry. I’m also an acceleration junky and feel hindered when I have to wait for something to happen after twisting the throttle. But maybe these concerns were less important now; I had other bikes to satisfy my need for speed and hi-tech, and putting around cones wouldn’t make use of advanced technology or breathtaking thrust. I’d buzzed around part of the BMW Performance Center track on a G 310 GS and was surprised to find the motor perky enough to be fun; it also handled quite nicely, though its suspension was rather soft and bouncy. A used one might be inexpensive and suit my current interest well.

I kept an eye on the local used market for months and eventually found something I thought might do better than merely meeting my minimum requirements. A 2018 G 310 R with less than 5,000 miles had been set up as a track toy, with the OEM pogo sticks replaced by fully adjustable Andreani Misano Evo fork cartridges up front and the shock from a sporty Triumph (Street Triple?) in the back, also featuring rebound and compression clickers. The clunky stock pegs and foot controls had been ditched for sexy items meant for a Kawasaki ZX6-R. The owner had fabricated or substituted a variety of other components as well, frequently using eBay as a source for salvaged or cheaply made parts to minimize his investment. He considered this tiny bike hugely entertaining but didn’t take it too seriously. It was all about the giggles. When I test rode it, I laughed hard at the

incongruities of this Frankenstein’s mini-monster. Most hilarious was its single cylinder’s full-throated exhalation through a no-name exhaust as I banged up through all six gears clutchlessly; an add-on electronic quickshifter (from Healtech) allowed completion of this sequence before I could cover the length of the interstate on-ramp. Giggles, indeed! Once in the flow of 70+ mph traffic, the high-revving (and effectively counterbalanced) 310 sounded like an angry bee but felt rock solid, as stable as a modern bike three times its size. Then, on a brief excursion through some nearby twisties, it carved corners like a scalpel on rails–mixed metaphor worthy of this motorcycle’s unnatural juxtapositions. Wide-eyed chortling ensued. Sold! I’d completely forgotten about the intended mission for this purchase.

The original owner’s accounts of online bargain hunting, and his rationale for cheaping out on anything not critical to safety or performance, inspired me. I was shocked at how little salvaged or easily machined parts cost. I’ve quickly spent fortunes on aftermarket mods for most every bike I’ve owned as an adult, but I decided I’d reverse course with this one. I found bargain-basement versions of all my favorite accessories at unbelievably low prices. More giggles. I added a set of slick SW-MOTECH crash bars to further reduce my concerns about dropping the 310 during parking lot drills. These were heavily discounted just because they’d been returned without their packaging—and hadn’t even been installed! Anodized adjustable shorty clutch and brake levers, foot pegs, axle sliders, mirrors, bar-ends, flashing brake lights and grips, all purchased for pennies on the dollar required for their new name-brand counterparts. When the six-year-old (!) battery proved unreliable, I didn’t buy a top-shelf lithium replacement, I got a generic AGM for a small fraction of the expense. When I discovered one of the chain adjustment bolts had broken off inside the swingarm, I didn’t spend $570 for a new piece from BMW, or even a couple hundred for repair at a machine shop—I spent $42 for a pristine salvaged one on eBay, with all the axle and pivot hardware included! The rear ABS sensor died. Purchased new it would’ve been $210, but eBay had it for $60, and it works perfectly. The only thing for which I paid name-brand MSRP was the mounting ring for my SW-MOTECH tank bags. My sides were hurting from all the laughter—until I realized I could have been doing this for many years.

Obviously, I knew people sold used and off-brand parts and accessories more cheaply than new name-brand items, but I didn’t want to slap a bunch of cheap crap on a brand new motorcycle. I also didn’t trust the quality of such parts, and I didn’t realize how much cheaper they could be. Sure, the adjustable levers I put on the 310 for $28 (total) are nowhere near as elegantly crafted as the CRG levers I have on another bike ($130 each, many years ago). I wasn’t trying to get “the best;” I wanted the least expensive option that would simply get the job done. It just had to be functional, and if it broke, I could buy it several times over and still come out ahead of what I’d have normally spent. I can lavish my other motorcycles with exotic farkles, the 310 is my mule—and what a fantastic mule it is!

As already mentioned, this machine is a stunning performer. It’s extremely easy to wrap around cones in a parking lot, but it’s also incredible on backroads. I didn’t actually time it, but I may have set my personal best pass of Deal’s Gap on the 310, first time through. I’ve been riding that stretch of road for decades on lots of big-bore sporting hardware, all of which was overkill–for both the tightness of the turns and my own meager riding skills. The 310 doesn’t produce scary acceleration, which is actually helpful, and it makes up for speed between corners with speed in the corners–which is the vast majority of those famed 11 miles. BMW’s engineers did a fantastic job with this chassis; the frame designers must have been so sad to see what the bean counters allowed for the suspension. I’m not saying everyone would be faster on a 310 than a full-fledged sport bike! On cramped, serpentine tarmac, though, big horsepower can be more liability than asset, while a little, lightweight, ultra-agile motorcycle can shine very, very brightly.

In terms of smiles per dollar, my 310 is probably the best motorcycling value I’ve ever owned. I couldn’t live with it as my only bike, but it covers a lot of bases. It’s great for commuting, sport riding in the mountains, and skill drills, and it’s comfortable enough to ride for hours on end. It handles local interstates with aplomb, even as I wring its neck to keep up. It sips gas, and its simplicity makes it easy to service, repair, and modify–and it cuts a dashing profile, looking even lighter with its dark wheels, belly pan and modified rear tire hugger painted white by the previous owner. I wouldn’t want to tour on it, or tote a passenger or luggage, and I’d feel deprived if I couldn’t enjoy more power on another machine, but otherwise the 310 is a surprisingly complete package.

Who knew BMW could produce such a wonderful little motorcycle? (With some help from eBay, that is!)

This Season Take Adventure ToTheNextLevel

Welcome our newest MOA members

Avigdor Abramovich Brooklyn, NY

Scott Alexander Charleroi, PA

Steve Alsip Owensboro, KY

David Anderson Annapolis, MD

Philip Anderson Whitefish, MT

Peter Anthony Wading River, NY

Ian Armitage Henrico, VA

David Aronson Vacaville, CA

Ankur Arora Everett, WA

Frank Asztalos Clayton, NC

Rick Ayres Middletown, OH

Kraig Babin Tangier, Nova Scotia

Todd Bagshaw Brisbane, Queensland

Bobby Bailey Lewes, DE

Tomasz Bak Orland Park, IL

George Baker Black Hawk, CO

Patricia Baker Raleigh, NC

Ken Baldauf Tallahassee, FL

Attila Balog Darien, IL

Deep Banerjee Centennial, CO

Charles Barbera Bristow, VA

Charles Barbera Bristow, VA

Lorie Barker Campbellcroft, ON

Bradford Barneys Odenton, MD

Dennis Bartolucci Tower Lakes, IL

El Bates Butte, MT

John Bauer Jupiter, FL

Roger Beaupre Sarasota, FL

Chris Beckworth Marietta, GA

Adrian Bedard Midlothian, VA

Brian Beeles Yuma, AZ

Daniel Beltran Haworth, NJ

Jeffrey Benbenek Lincoln, RI

Steve Bennington North Wales, PA

Rodney Bernard Petersham, New S. Wales

Alex Bilter Glen Allen, VA

Renton Blackstone Centreville, VA

David Bouck Vancouver, BC

Niall Bourke Clonmel Co Tipperary

Robin Bova Wadsworth, OH

Paul Bradley Farmington, AR

Paul Bremer Auburn, MA

Kim Brinker New Alexandria, PA

Dan Brown Charlottesville, VA

Joel Brumley Muncie, IN

Buchli Buchli Macon, GA

Stuart Buckley Littleton, CO

Roger Burke Williamsburg, VA

Johan Buys Littleton, CO

Victor Calvillo Cicero, IL

Patrick Campbell Lake Stevens, WA

Jonathan Campbell Olympia, WA

Ignacio Campos Sandwich, IL

Blayne Cannon Summerville, SC

Jean Carcia Northbrook, IL

Keith Carper Colonial Heights, VA

Paul Castell Atlanta, GA

Philip Castle-Smith Cypress, TX

Ryan Catlett Montclair, VA

Jim Chamberlin St. Simons Island, GA

John Chevalaz Swoope, VA

Richard Choi Piedmont, CA

Taylor Cioffi South Williamsport, PA

Michael Cmeyla Broadlands, VA

Robert Cook Washington, NJ

Robert Cooper Holland Landing, ON

Barry Cormier Naperville, IL

Jay Courant Mill Valley, California

Kenneth Coventry Davisburg, MI

Kristoffer Cox Leesville, SC

Craig Crabtree Suwanee, GA

R. Croak Villa Ridge, MO

John Cummings Carlisle, PA

Andrze Cytackij Algonquin, IL

Russell Dalba Williamsville, NY

Joseph Daley Paoli, PA

Mark Danford Chesterfield, VA

Juliette Dauterive Baton Rouge, LA

Artur Dawidowski Crystal Lake, IL

Oscar De Jesus Jonesboro, GA

Francisco Diaz Hagerstown, MD

Mike Dipalo Fredericksburg, VA

Tom Dmochowski Collegeville, PA

David Donnamaria Aiken, SC

Kathleen Dooley Fredericksburg, VA

David Dortin Cincinnati, OH

Steve Dozier Agoura Hills, CA

Mihail Dumitru Wheaton, IL

Tom Durant Littleton, CO

William Dwyer Dunkirk, MD

Harry E Fisher Carroll Valley, PA

Joel E Greene Cairo, GA

Steve Edlund Tigard, OR

Ronald Egalka Gilford, NH

John Ellis White Hall, MD

Mike Enright Hinton, IA

Carroll Ensor Forest Hill, MD

Wilbur Evans North Chesterfield, VA

Brad Eyre Virginia Beach, VA

Gregory Faust Mechanicsville, VA

Al Felman Mission, KS

Alex Firemann Chicago, IL

Andrew Fisher Conroe, TX

Robert Fix Schwenksville, PA

Todd Flick West Point, NE

John Floro Bloomingdale, IL

David Foyle Castro Valley, CA

Andrew Freeburg New York, NY

Colleen Freedman Monroe, WA

Nathanael Freeman Hanceville, AL

Kevin Fuller Inman, SC

Timothy Gaffney Girdwood, AK

James Gant Bechtelsville, PA

Joel Gappa Addison, IL

Leo Garza Santa Maria, CA

Andrea Gately Brevard, NC

Scott Gearhart Fredericksburg, VA

Michael Gentile Spotsylvania, VA

Lane Gerber Arlington Heights, IL

Thomas Germanos Pittsburgh, PA

Ronald Giarmo Lake Barrington, IL

Ira Gibel Ruckersville, VA

Keith Gibel Charlottesville, VA

Brett Sam Gilbert Jacksonville, FL

Amanda Giliotti San Antonio, TX

Art Gloeckler New Windsor , NY

Daniel Goehring Pasadena, MD

Fin Gold Raleigh, NC

Terry Gongaware Flower Mound, TX

Rene Gonzalez New York, NY

Robert Gordon Old Bridge, NJ

Devyn Goss Henrico, VA

Spencer Graham Albuquerque, NM

Wayne Grant Pagosa Springs, CO

Silas Green Bunker Hill, IN

Benjamin Greene Chicago, IL

David Gregory Virginia Beach, VA

Michael Groarke Marion, MT

Joe Gunnet Flemington, NJ

Bradley Hall Andalusia, AL

Val Hamilton Maggie Valley, NC

Jimmy Hanus Lemont, IL

Frank Hardy Winchester, KY

James Harmon Woodbridge, VA

John F Harper The Villages, FL

Blake Harr LaGrange, GA

Jesse Hassler Denver, CO

Will Hazlinsky Shelby Township, MI

Paul Heath Oklahoma City, OK

Jason Heffernan Norman, OK

Daniel Hermes Powhatan, VA

Clifford Herrmann Madison, WI

Christopher Hildreth Wayzata, MN

Karen Hill Owings Mills, MD

Dru Hill Woodbridge, VA

Edward Hogg Cullman, AL

Tom Hohing Richmond, VA

Jason Holman Milwaukee, WI

Dale Hoover DuBois, PA

Jeff Hopkins Stuart, FL

Dale Houck Carlisle, PA

Ed Housewright Dallas, TX

Tomasz Hryszko Algonquin, IL

Ben Hughes Dallas, TX

Tim Hughes Ashburn, VA

Daniel Hull Powell, OH

Katie Hunter Riverview, NB

Gregory Hurley Key Largo, FL

Arthur Isenberg Richland, WA

Doug Jacobs Springfield, VT

Russel Jacobs East Troy, WI

Mark Jacobsen Thousand Oaks, CA

David James Richmond, VA

Derek Janssen Novato, CA

Jon Jenkins Austin, TX

Scott Jiggens Midland, MI

Kirk Johnson Hendersonville, NC

Anthony Johnston Roscoe, IL

Jeff Johnston London, ON

Vern Jones Plant City, FL

Harold Juengst Topock, AZ

Doug Kadan Apex, NC

Raymond Kassmeier Centennial, CO

CJ Katehis Stafford, VA

Cal Kendall Winnipeg, Manitoba

Johnathan Kerns Hanover, VA

Woody Kilmer Heltonville, IN

Paul King Middletown, OH

Orion Kingman Murrieta, CA

Ronald Klas Port Washington, WI

Randy Knepp Bernville, PA

Derek Knerr Westminster, MA

Chris Knowles Willow Spring, NC

Jeffrey Knurr Mukwonago, WI

Cory Koch Holland, MI

Judy Koehn Adams, NE

Don Kokocki Jacksonville, FL

Mark Koneda Alexandria, VA

John Kousaie Woodbridge, VA

Kenneth Kowal Lemont, IL

Kurt Kreiss Palatine, IL

Todd Kriebs Belleville, WI

Jeffrey Krout Santaquin, UT

Kasey Kuhlman Cincinnati, OH

Abhishek Kumar Naperville, IL

James Lang Sioux Falls, SD

Bryan Larrimer Sugar land, TX

Arnold Levin Simi Valley, CA

Tina Lewis Chester, VA

Irving Lim Elgin, IL

Clifford Lindow Erie, CO

Steven Lineberry Machesney Park, IL

David Little North Vancouver, BC

Kurt Livermore Portland, OR

Richard Loechl Wheaton, IL

Anthony LoFrisco Jr. Westport, CT

Ethan Long Lenhartsville, PA

Terence Lyons Denver, CO

Jake MacDonald Strasburg, CO

Greg Maciulski Ventura, CA

Douglas Madeley Redding, CA

Avery Magill Lock Haven, PA

Sonia Malysz Hershey, PA

Don Mapp Yatesville, GA

Joe Marsala North Chesterfield, VA

Kipp Martell Boise, ID

Kevin Martin Mississauga, ON

David Maxwell Phoenix, AZ

Dick Mayer Hedgesville, WV

Lisa McCall Camden, SC

Jim McCarthy Colchester, CT

Darrin McKee Gold Beach, OR

Daniel McNulty Lafayette, IN

Gregg McWilliams Goldendale, WA

T. Mead Palmer, Alaska

Josh Meeder Midway, KY

Joy Melton Sebastian, FL

Jesus Mendoza Springdale, AR

K Miller Colorado Springs, CO

Robert Montee Fredericksburg, VA

Stefan Monteferrante Portage, WI

James Moore Cincinnati, OH

Thom Morano Montpelier, VA

Joe Morris Escondido, CA

Richard Morton Cherry Hill, NJ

Jeff Mounts Portland, OR

Andreas Mueller Annapolis, MD

Jay Mullennax Fort Shaw, MT

Dennis Mullet Millersburg, OH

Colten Murphy Saguache, CO

Robert Murray Crystal Lake, IL

Matthew Murto Fenton, MI

Peter Mustone Saginaw, MI

Brian Myers Powder Springs, GA

Igor Najdovski Darien, IL

Eric Nikkel Omaha, NE

Shinya Nishizawa Middleton, WI

Michele Nixon Edgewater, MD

Bob Noel Lapeer, MI

Bruce Nopenz Silver Lake, WI

Rick Nordmeyer Marengo, IL

Kameron Norlie Northbrook, IL

John Nycz Woodbridge, NJ

George Offord Parrish, FL

Miguel Oliveira Alcabideche, Cascais

Mark Olson Anaconda, MT

Tom O’Shea Orlando, FL

Scotty Osment Woodruff, SC

Mike Oteri Rogersville, TN

Robert Ozley Lorton, VA

James P Roscoe, IL

Franklin Parker Lake In The Hills, IL

Max Parker Deltaville, VA

Pritesh Patel Delaware, OH

James Payne Denver, CO

“What I appreciate most about the MOA is how helpful folks have been, going above and beyond to teach me how to keep this bike on the road! “

– Alexander Keck #232785

Steve Pelitsky Glenview, IL

Gael Pervilhac New York, NY

Thorsten Peters Sterling, VA

Ryan Pettit Palatine, IL

Sara Pilling Greensboro, NC

Michael Pisacano Glenwood Landing, NY

Timmy Pitseltka Golden, CO

Clint Poole Scottsdale, AZ

Harvie Porter Randolph, VT

Brian Potter Grosse Pointe Farms, MI

Peter Quigley Doylestown, PA

Romeo Raabe Green Bay, WI

Marty Raaymakers Port Huron, MI

James Rach Clinton, MN

Mike Randazzo Little Rock, AR

CharLene Rapp Clearwater, FL

Theodore Ratajczyk Hoffman Estates, IL

Jesus Real Taos, NM

Jeffrey Reesor Hershey, PA

Cary Reeves Sioux Falls, SD

Byron Rich Meadville, PA

Rebecca Rivenburgh Southwick, MA

Jack Roberts Magalia, CA

Jon Robins Highlands Ranch, CO

Fernando Rodrigues Ashburn, VA

Paul Rogers Newtown Square, PA

Evan Rohrer Mechanicsburg, PA

Daniel Rohrer Mechanicsburg, PA

Evan Rubenstein Caulfield, S. Victoria

Robert Ruminski Algonquin, IL

Jennifer Rux Salem, OR

Richard Salmen Lenexa, KS

Gregory Saulsbury West Linn, OR

Jeff Savastano Newmarket, NH

Michael Schaub Buttenheim, Bavaria

Hank Schlesinger Castalian Springs, TN

Mike Schloe Hagerstown, MD

David Schonhoffer Manotick, ON

Tanner Schrecongost N. Chesterfield, VA

Brian Schultz Washington, VA

Chloe Schultz-Kellett Rochester, MI

Shane Scott Fredericksburg, VA

Daniel Segovia Tacoma, WA

Denis Shamparov Lincolnshire, IL

Jim Sharp Alachua, FL

Mischelle Sharpe Cowlesville, NY

Stephanie Shively New Braunfels, TX

David Shortis Lytchett Matravers, Poole

Joseph Sileo Marana, AZ

Scott Simon Naperville, IL

Jack Skelly Hershey, PA

Preston Slaughter Quinton, VA

Geo Small Crossville, TN

Bryan Smith Pittsburgh, PA

Kevin Smith Sheboygan Falls, WI

Phillip Soladine Columbus, IN

William Spaller Dexter, MI

Sean Sparks Snohomish, MI

Ryan Stacklin Colorado Springs, CO

Christopher Stanley Peyton, CO

Debi Stanton Centerburg, OH

Donald Staren-Doby Arlington, VA

Wes Stephenson Tooele, UT

David Stevens Moseley, VA

Talya Stocksdale Pasadena, MD

Geoffrey Stoltz Tucson, AZ

Pierre St-Onge Shefford, Quebec

Marek Strzelbicki Ayr, ON

Arthur Suggs Binghamton, NY

Jim Sullivan Hermosa Beach, CA

Steven Sullivan Weldon Spring, MO

Robert Sullivan Perry, OH

Chris Sulzman Ridgeland, SC

Ricky Swank Lafayette, IN

John Taeza Spotsylvania, VA

David Tang Toronto, ON

Christopher Tate Yelm, WA

Yoganand Tenkayala Victoria, MN

Rahul Thakur Chesterfield, VA

Jacin Theis Ashville, PA

Michael Thomas Colfax, NC

Kristopher Thompson Peyton, CO

Ted Thompson Guilford, CT

Calieb Tillman Shelby Township, MI

Paul Timm Omro, WI

Bryan Tobin Mount Horeb, WI

Jon Tone Anchorage, AK

Christopher Towe Flowery Branch, GA

Sasha Trifunovic Monroe, MI

Rudy Truttman Enid, OK

Constantine Tsandiotis Edison, NJ

Shawn Tumblin Newton, AL

Jeremy Turner Millsboro, DE

Bryce Turner Newcastle, OK

Samuel Turner Cookeville, TN

Brian Turpin Indianapolis, IN

Nicholas Tuscany Racine, WI

Michael Uddo Boca Raton, FL

Jimmie Unger Rockford, IL

Bill Vair Hartville, OH

Don Vancil Garden Grove, CA

Harold Vanta Oklahoma City, OK

Miguel Vargas Pharr, TX

Brian Vasoff Toronto, ON

Lucie Veilleux Shefford, Quebec

Jorge Villarreal Oklahoma City, OK

Martin Vollert Kula, HI

Marc Vreede Bellaire, MI

Glenn Wadsworth Elkridge, MD

Johnny Waldrip Richwood, TX

Peter Walsh Coffs Harbour, New S. Wales

Jefferey Walton North Chesterfield, VA

Nels Wangsness Dade City, FL

Troy Weigel Paulden, AZ

Kevin Westman Bellevue, WA

Richard White Ventura, CA

Michael White Dedham, ME

Doug Widnall Ormond Beach, FL

Adam Williams Pittsburgh, PA

Chad Williams Goose Creek, SC

Michael Wolford Leland, NC

Eric Wright Evans Mills, NY

Werner Wysznewskij Montello, WI

Shemuel Yehudah Monroe, GA

Robert Yenkel Berkley, MI

Herb Yonkers Ocean Isle Beach, NC

John York Gallup, NM

Joseph Yost Loveland, CO

Kyle Young Bear, DE

Alan Young Medford, OR

Boyd Young Denison, TX

Todd Zacker Glen Allen, VA

Pavel Zvertsov Oakville, ON

Marc Zylberberg Rensselaer, NY

Find an Event near You

9/1/2023 to 9/4/2023

RANGE OF LIGHT GYPSY TOUR Colusa, California tourcaptain@bmwnorcal.org

9/1/2023 to 9/4/2023

THREE FLAGS CLASSIC Begins in Puerto Peñasco, Mexico and Ends in Calgary, Canada emailmotopippi@gmail.com

9/6/2023 to 9/10/2023

10TH ANNUAL WAILIN’ WAYNE WEEKEND Nelsonville, Ohio chad@bmwmoa.org

9/7/2023 to 9/10/2023

MIDWAY CAMP-N-RIDE Midway, British Columbia events@valleybmwriders.com

9/8/2023 – 9/10/2023

52ND ANNUAL WISCONSIN DELLS RALLY Wisconsin Dells, Wisconsin barnrazer@yahoo.com

9/8/2023 – 9/10/2023

KENTUCKY STATE BMW RALLY Pineville, Kentucky prorepoms@aol.com

9/8/2023 – 9/10/2023

TUG HILL TURNOUT Lowville, New York camdengroup@icloud.com

9/8/2023 – 9/10/2023

38TH ANNUAL BAVARIAN MOUNTAIN WEEKEND RALLY Taos, New Mexico info@loebmwr.org

9/8/2023 – 9/10/2023

GREEN MOUNTAIN RALLY Goshen, Vermont greenmtnrally@gmail.com

9/21/2023 – 9/24/2023

2023 PURE STODGE IOWA RALLY Elkader, Iowa pstarally@gmail.com

9/21/2023 – 9/24/2023

3RD ANNUAL LAUREL HIGHLANDS WEEKEND SPONSORED BY BMW MOA Somerset, Pennsylvania gsjay@kaplitz.com

9/22/2023 – 9/24/2023

19TH THUNDER MOUNTAIN RENDEZVOUS Hotchkiss, Colorado aesurvey@aol.com

9/22/2023 – 9/24/2023

36TH ANNUAL HOOSIER BEEMER RALLY North Vernon, Indiana k12lts@gmail.com

9/28/2023 – 10/1/2023

LAST CHANCE TO CAMP-N-RIDE Oroville, Washington events@valleybmwriders.com

9/28/2023 – 10/1/2023

THRILLS IN THE HILLS, TEXAS HOEDOWN Kerrville, Texas chad@bmwmoa.org

9/29/2023 – 10/1/2023 “BACK TO JAMAICA” CAMPOUT Jamaica, Vermont kz1000@hotmail.com

9/29/2023 – 10/1/2023

41ST ANNUAL LAST CHANCE RALLY Wading River, New Jersey pjliskojr@gmail.com

9/29/2023 – 10/1/2023

CENTRAL OKLAHOMA BMW ROAD RIDERS ANNUAL CAMPOUT Talihina, Oklahoma tburull@hotmail.com

9/29/2023 – 10/1/2023

THE 2023 TWIN VALLEY RIDERS GATHERING New Castle, Virginia esim68@aol.com

10/6/2023 – 10/8/2023

BMW MOTORRAD DAYS AMERICAS 2023 Leeds, Alabama bmwmotorcycles.com/en/ experience/100years

10/9/2023 – 10/13/2023

FALL SMOKY MOUNTAIN MAGIC TOUR Fontana Dam, North Carolina becky.smith@bmwmoa.org

10/13/2023 – 10/15/2023

COLONIAL VIRGINIA MOTORCYCLE RALLY Wakefield, Virginia president@bmwmchr.com

10/13/2023 – 10/15/2023

48TH FALLING LEAF RALLY Steelville, Missouri rally-coordinator@gatewayriders.com

10/28/2023 – 10/29/2023

OCTOBERFEST Manchaster, California tourcaptain@bmwnorcal.org

11/3/2023 – 11/5/2023

53RD SOUTH-CENTRAL BMW OWNERS REUNION Fayetteville, Texas vp@bmwclubofhouston.com

2024

4/6/2024

2024 RTE NORTHWEST TN, EAGLE BOAT TOUR & BOYETTE’S EAT CATFISH Tiptonville, Tennessee captrehkopf@gmail.com

4/14/2024 – 4/28/2024

IMTBIKE CELEBRATION TOUR OF SPAIN FOR BMW MOA MEMBERS Madrid, Spain tours@imtbike.com

6/13/2024 – 6/16/2024

RIDIN’ TO REDMOND NATIONAL RALLY Redmond, Oregon membership@bmwmoa.org

For complete details on any event listed, please visit bmwmoa.org and click on the Rallies & Events tab

NEW SWEDEN BMW RIDERS PROUDLY HOST OUR 41st ANNUAL LAST CHANCE RALLY

Turtle Run Campground • Wading River, New Jersey

Rally fee includes Shaded Camp Sites, Friday night Burgers & Dogs with fixen’s. Saturday, SAVORY BBQ BANQUET. Door Prizes, Field Events, GS Ride, Street Ride, Awards, Campfires and more. Cabins & RV sites are available at additional cost.

Pre-register by Sept. 10th, $60 for members & $65 non-members. After Sept. 10th members pay $65 and non-members $70. Feast on our “stuff your face” bbq, visit the local sights, explore the roads, renew old friendships & relax in the shady south jersey pines.

For More Information Visit: newswedenbmwriders.com or lastchancerally.com or Contact Pete at 856-214-5110

COLONIAL VIRGINIA MOTORCYCLE RALLY

October 13-15, 2023

Come join the fun and celebrate with us at the BMW Motorcycle Club of Hampton Roads 46thh annual rally.

All makes of bikes are welcome. This year’s Rally will be at the same location as last year, the 4-H Airfield Conference Center at 15189 Airfield Rd, Wakefield, VA, 23888 (36º 54’ 58.85”, -77º 1’ 40.95”). We will be in the Point Yancey Building and the surrounding grounds.

Rally registration includes 2 nights of tent camping, Friday and Saturday dinners, free flowing coffee and tea, door prizes, and a field event. There will be live music Saturday along with a campfire. For those looking for non tent options, contact the 4 H Airfield Conference Center at (757) 899-4901 as they have several other lodging options. This rally is known for our great food and wonderful company.

For more information contact rally@bmwmchr.com

GET UNSTUCK,

DECOMPRESS,

connect with other and take meaningful steps toward

EDITORIAL

Managing Editor BILL WIEGAND | bill@bmwmoa.org

Art Director KARIN HALKER | karin@bmwmoa.org

Digital Media Editor WES FLEMING | wes@bmwmoa.org

Associate Editor RON DAVIS

A ssociate Editor JOSE ABILES

CONTRIBUTORS SALES & MARKETING MEMBER SERVICES MEMBERSHIP

Phil Stalboerger, Collin Stannard, Ed von Wuw, Gregory Johnson, Jon Kagan, Mike Grantham, Olaf Roepke, Ross Bentz, Mark Barnes, Ron Davis, Daren Dortin, Wes Fleming, Dustin Silvey, Janel Silvey, Paul Phillips, Robert McIsaac, Jack Riepe, James Carlisle

Advertising Director CHRIS HUGHES | chris@bmwmoa.org

Business Development Director CHAD WARNER | chad@bmwmoa.org

Executive Director TED MOYER | ted@bmwmoa.org

Membership Associate TONYA MCMEANS | tonya@bmwmoa.org

Digital Marketing Manager RAY TUBBS | ray@bmwmoa.org

Membership Manager PAULA FITZER | paula.fitzer@bmwmoa.org

Chief Operating Officer BECKY SMITH | becky.smith@bmwmoa.org

BMW MOA Headquarters

2350 Hwy. 101 South, Greer, SC 29651 (864) 438-0962

Membership in the BMW Motorcycle Owners of America is open to all riders, regardless of brand affiliation. Although we are united by the BMW marque, adventure-minded motorcyclists will find a home here. Join today by visiting bmwmoa.org or call one of our friendly membership associates at 864-438-0962.

BMWMOA.ORG

BMW ON (ISSN:1080-5729) (USPS: 735-590) (BMW Owners News) is published monthly by BMW Motorcycle Owners of America Inc., 2350 Hwy 101 South, Greer, SC 29651. Periodicals postage paid at Greer, SC and additional mailing offices. Opinions and positions stated in materials/articles herein are those of the authors and not by the fact of publication necessarily those of BMW MOA; publication of advertising material is not an endorsement by BMW MOA of the advertised product or service. The material is presented as information for the reader. BMW MOA does not perform independent research on submitted articles or advertising.

POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO BMW ON, 2350 Hwy 101 South, Greer, SC 29651 ©2023 by BMW Motorcycle Owners of America Inc. All information furnished herein is provided by and for the members of BMW Motorcycle Owners of America, Inc. Unless otherwise stated, none of the information (including technical material) printed herein necessarily bears endorsement or approval by BMW MOA, BMW NA, the factory or the editors. The editors and publisher cannot be held liable for its accuracy. Printed in the USA. Volume 53, Number 9

ADVERTISING INDEX

Can’t Get There from Here

Channeling my inner Neil Peart as I “go shunpiking” on the way to Barber Motorsports Museum. No surprise, this particular road ended after five miles and forced me to backtrack.

Photo by James Carlisle #196730

In our continuing efforts to bring innovative products and services to our membership, the MOA is excited to offer The Lifestyle Collection. For the first time, the MOA and Klim are offering co-branded apparel. Klim is the global leader in designing, developing and manufacturing, the most advanced technical riding gear and motor sports apparel for motorcycle riders.