How To Stop Time

GÄSTEHAUS KRENN

In the picturesque village of Pürgg, high above the Ennstal valley and with a population of just 150, time seems to stand still. Austrian poet Peter Rosegger described the idyllic spot as the “cradle of Styria”, and it’s where we discover the Krenn restaurant and guesthouse, both of which boast centuries-old charm.

BACK TO THE ROOTS

Anyone arriving in the wildly romantic village of Purgg will notice straight away that the clocks here just seem to tick differently. Slower somehow. Quieter. We also notice it at the Gästehaus Krenn, the beautifully renovated former focal point of the village, which used to provide lodgings for poets, artists and guests looking for a summer retreat. Here, it really doesn’t matter whether we go for one of the three cosy deluxe double rooms or one of the three spacious suites – every room embodies a piece of history that has been painstakingly and thoughtfully brought into the present thanks to the addition of modern elements. You can almost picture the young artists that would have come here in summer in olden times to kick back and take inspiration from the rawness of the location. And the building still delivers inspiration today, be it in the form of a book from the well-stocked library, the breath-taking view from one of the windows in the cosy breakfast lounge or while pondering in the homely dining room. At the Gästehaus Krenn, you’ll find yourself in a temporary home away from home where you’d like to stay a little longer, and where you’re bound to come back – preferably sooner rather than later.

It’s a fitting end to this day of oriental bathing. Any stressful thoughts have long since been whisked away on a flying carpet and I feel pleasantly light. I stretch out on a lounger and doze off.

The famous advent market in Pürgg is one of the special christmas markets in advent in Styria. On the first two weekends of Advent, the romantic village is transformed into a „Kripperl“, creates an idyllic christmas atmosphere and enchants its visitors year after year. The exhibitors present their diverse, traditional crafts in the stables, garages, barns and houses of the picturesque little village. There we hear the snow crunching under our shoes again when we step out into the festively decorated village for a stroll following a cozy dinner at the Gasthaus Krenn. This gem of a pub from the 16th century is run with the greatest of respect for the history of the region and warm hospitality. The kitchen conjures up traditional dishes straight out of grandma’s recipe book, including Blunzengrostl (fried potato with black pudding) and Sauerrahmsouffle (sour cream souffle) – traditional and hearty at lunchtime, a bit more refined in the evening.

Alternatively, you can pick up heavenly desserts, a tasty homemade bread roll with ham, or one or two delicacies from the selected producers from further afield in the guesthouse’s own delicatessen. It’s a superb village shop where we again encounter the unique charm of the past that, Christmas sparkle or not, will transform every visit into something truly special. It’s at this point that we’ll be more than happy for time to stand still.