Nails Magazine Career Handbook 2012 by Bobit Business Media

2012

career handbook

7 TIPS for Writing a Killer Resume MARKETING DOS & DON’TS Easy Nail Art Designs TROUBLESHOOTING Nail Techniques

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Table of Contents

Starting Your Career

Honing Your Skills

From passing your state board exam to understanding different compensation systems to preparing your resume for an interview, this section helps you ﬁgure out what you need to know when you are just getting started. 12 14 18 20

21 Tips for Test-Takers Know Your Compensation Options The Resume: Selling Yourself How to Ace Your Interview

Building Your Business Now that you have a job, you want to know how you can build your business. This section shows you how to reach out to clients and build your clientele. 24 67 Ways to Fill Your Chair in 6 Months 30 Market Your Services 32 Retailing for the Timid

From understanding what it means to keep you and your clients safe to troubleshooting some of the most frequently asked technical questions, this section helps you ﬁne-tune your skills. 72 Nail Troubleshooter 74 The ABCs of Sanitation 80 Posture Primer

Expanding Your Horizons You’ve got the job and the clients, and now you want to know how to stay abreast of the latest and greatest in the nail industry. This section includes nail art step-by-steps and a list of online resources to help you in your journey. 88 Start Saving Now for the Future 92 Nail Art Studio 96 NAILS Online Resources

Departments 10 On My Mind 93 Ad Index 98 Nail Techs Don’t Let Nail Techs...

Special Section 35 The Nails Hotline

COVER LOOK Nails: Holly Schippers, FingerNailFixer, Bussey, Iowa Photographer: Vu Ong Model: Ariel Paredes, Body Parts Models

8 | 2012 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK

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On My Mind

QUESTIONS

ANSWERS

Occasionally when I first meet someone and I reveal that I work at a nail magazine full-time, I’ll see the other person’s face scrunch up and her eyes gaze off in the distance as if trying to figure out a polite way to ask me, “Is there really that much to say about nails?” That generally unleashes my soapbox-style reply regarding the importance of salon sanitation to public health, how small business owners grow our economy, nail styles and fashion trends, and how all that only just scratches the surface of the industry. Sree.Roy@bobit.com As a nail student or newly minted tech, now is the time for you to jump up and down ecstatically because you just cracked open the door to this secret treasure trove of opportunity that is the nail industry. It’s an amazing place where you can work for decades and always find there is more to learn. You can use your creativity on a daily basis, develop deep connections with your clients, and make your own hours. You can volunteer your skills to perk up the lives of the less fortunate (such as cancer patients or clients who need a great set of nails for a job interview) and, when you’re a few years in and have your own soapbox-style explanation of why you love what you do, you can mentor a new nail tech and help her build her skills and her clientele. The other question that I get frequently — and this one is yelled out loud — comes from salon owners: “Where are the good nail techs?” With this question too, you have the upper hand. By “good,” most salon owners simply mean someone who treats her clients and colleagues with respect; who exhibits basic nail skills and, more importantly, is open to improving them; who is passionate about doing nails; and who demonstrates a strong work ethic. If this describes you, then I predict you’ll have no problem finding your first job. My challenge to you is to find a salon that will help you grow your business. Look for one that has a history of mentoring newbie nail techs to success. Now, I know that you likely have some questions of your own. We’ve tried to answer many of them with this NAILS Career Handbook, including The NAILS Hotline inside that we’ve written to answer our most frequently asked questions. Even more questions are answered on www.nailsmag.com/qa/list. For your other questions, you’re always welcome to e-mail me: sree.roy@bobit.com. Just don’t be surprised if I start my response by telling you how lucky you are to be in this amazing industry.

A BOBIT BUSINESS MEDIA PUBLICATION

Publisher Cyndy Drummey Cyndy.Drummey@bobit.com Associate Publisher Michelle Mullen Michelle.Mullen@bobit.com Associate Publisher/Editor Hannah Lee Hannah.Lee@bobit.com Managing Editor Sree Roy Sree.Roy@bobit.com Features Editor Judy Lessin Judy.Lessin@bobit.com Senior Editor Tim Crowley Tim.Crowley@bobit.com Contributing Writers Michelle Pratt, Erin Snyder Dixon Art Director Danielle Parisi Danielle.Parisi@bobit.com Graphic Artist Kimberly Pham Kim.Pham@bobit.com Graphic Artist Yuiko Sugino Yuiko.Sugino@bobit.com Production Manager Carla Benavidez Carla.Benavidez@bobit.com Western Sales Manager Michelle Mullen, (310) 533-2465 Michelle.Mullen@bobit.com Eastern Sales Manager Mary Baughman, (562) 377-0465 Mary.Baughman@bobit.com Marketing/eMedia Coordinator Myla Diaz Myla.Diaz@bobit.com Audience Marketing Manager Katie Fillingame For subscription inquiries: (888) NAILS-44, bobitpubs@halldata.com Send business and editorial correspondence to: 3520 Challenger St., Torrance, CA 90503 (310) 533-2400 (310) 533-2507 Fax www.nailsmag.com Chairman Edward J. Bobit CEO/President Ty F. Bobit Chief Financial Officer Richard E. Johnson

.com

Are you looking for the right nail products to start your career? Visit www.nailsmag.com/starterkits for a round-up of student and starter kits. Also, look for the .com symbol throughout the Career Handbook to dig deeper into speciﬁc topics via our website.

10 | 2012 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK

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Starting Your Career

S 21 TiP FOR

Test-Takers You’ve graduated from nail school! But before you can start working in a salon you have to pass your state board exam. Here are 21 tips to prepare you for the big day. 1 Remember, studying for the test begins on the ﬁrst day of class. Decide to learn the material, not simply know it well enough to pass the test. 2 Don’t delay in taking your exams. Take them as soon as possible after completing your coursework when everything is still fresh in your mind. 3 The National-Interstate Council of State Boards of Cosmetology (NIC) provides tests to more than 30 states. Go to www.nictesting.org/details.htm to see if your state is one of them. If it is, click on www.nictesting.org/cand_info.htm to see sample questions and a link to paid practice exams, which will give you an idea of what types of questions will be asked. 4 Check out Milady.com (click on the “students” tab) to ﬁnd resources for study guides. Many state tests use these as the references for test questions. 5 Review chapters and notes on sanitation and safety. Also review your state board’s regulations. 6 California usually leads the pack in terms of state board regulations. Whether you’re in California or not, you might consider checking out Score! How to Pass the California Manicurist State Board

.com

Visit blogs.nailsmag.com/student to read about other new grads’ state board exam experiences.

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Exam. You can order the book at www. californiastateboard.com. 7 Take out your old tests from class, see where you made errors, and review these sections. 8 Find the Candidate Information Bulletins (CIB) on the NIC website to learn how test questions are weighted. Download and print the practical CIB for nail techs and study it. 9 Stay positive. You have done the work, you’ve studied hard, and you’ve earned the right to take the state board. Tell yourself that you won’t fail. A positive outlook will keep your head clear. 10 To answer a multiple-choice question, ﬁrst cover the choices, next read the question and determine your answer, then uncover the choices and search for your answer. 11 Check and recheck your kit and materials against your state regulations, and bring duplicates of items in case of a mishap. 12 Pay attention to details — if a question requires you to list steps, make sure you list them all. 13 If you are using a live model, make sure her nails and skin are healthy. Offer to drive your model to and from the testing site to ensure her participation.

14 Bring a photo ID and a social security card to the test. (Bring another government-issued ID if you don’t have a social security card.) 15 Make sure all your IDs list the same name. (One may be a married name, in which case you may need to bring a marriage certiﬁcate.) 16 Make sure your transcripts have been sent from the schools. Make sure any necessary paperwork is ﬁlled out prior to the test. 17. Know the testing times and leave plenty of time before the test begins to park, use the restroom, and walk to the testing room. Bring money for a parking meter. Consider taking a test run to the testing site a few days before so you know exactly where the test will be. 18 Ensure that your payment method is acceptable. 19 Wear comfortable, professional clothing, remembering your clean lab jacket if required by your state. Make sure your hair is pulled back and away from your face and that you don’t wear any dangling jewelry. 20 Don’t load up on caffeine or sugar before the test. They could make you jittery and cause anxiety. 21 Relax! You’re ready. ILLUSTRATION BY YUIKO SUGINO

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Starting Your Career

KNOW YOUR COMPENSATION OPTIONS Believe it or not, some techs graduate from nail school and immediately open up their own salon. Most, however, wait to get some experience ﬁrst. If you’re not ready for salon ownership, you can get to work as either an employee or a booth renter. Read on to learn the differences between these types of techs. WHICH BEST DESCRIBES YOUR COMPENSATION SYSTEM?

WHICH JOB DESCRIPTION IS RIGHT FOR YOU?

I am a booth renter, I pay rent to the salon and I keep all my service fees.

25.0%

I own the salon, but I also do nails and keep what I make from services I personally do.

21.5%

I own the salon and pay myself a salary.

16.5%

I am an employee and I receive just a percentage of my service fees (no salary).

9.9%

I am an employee and I receive a salary.

4.7%

I am an employee and I receive a salary plus a percentage of my service fees.

3.0%

I am a booth renter, and I pay a percentage of service fees to the salon as rent.

2.5%

I am an employee and my compensation is based on the number of clients I serve (for example, I receive a higher commission if I bring in more clients).

2.4%

Other

AN EMPLOYEE: • Receives a salary and/or commission (plus tips) • Can be required to work certain hours, follow certain procedures, adhere to a dress code • May receive training, performance goals, and evaluations from the salon owner • Has payroll taxes withheld from her paycheck • May receive benefits like vacation and health insurance A BOOTH RENTER: • Pays a fee (rent) to lease a space in a salon • Sets her own prices and collects money directly from her clients • Determines her own service offerings • Pays for her own supplies • Pays her own taxes and insurance • Does not receive any benefits

14.5%

RESOURCES: Want more tax info? You can download the following publications from the IRS website at www.irs.gov/ formspubs/index.html or call (800) 829-3676. > Publication 1779, Independent Contractor or Employee Brochure

A SALON OWNER: • Leases or owns the salon property • May hire employees, rent out booths, or work solo • May provide equipment and supplies for employees • Has discretion over salon decor, marketing, hours of operation, retail lines • May provide benefits for employees

You might prefer to be an employee if you enjoy the following: • Being part of a team • Receiving training and feedback • Relying on a salon owner to help build your business • Bearing less ﬁnancial responsibility

You might prefer to be a booth renter if you enjoy the following: • Being your own boss and making decisions independently • Wearing many hats • Having the challenge of building a clientele

> Publication 531, Reporting Tip Income > Form SS-8, Determination of Worker Status

>>>

14 | 2012 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK

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Starting Your Career

FOR AN EMPLOYEE: Line 1.

HOW TO ESTIMATE YOUR TRUE INCOME

ANNUAL EXPENSES Line 2. FICA (social security and Medicare taxes) (5.65% of line 1)

USING THESE WORKSHEETS The big question: Will I make more money as a booth renter or an employee? It may seem at first glance that you will earn more as a booth renter — after all isn’t it better to receive 100% of your service fees without someone else taking a cut? But when you calculate the overhead a booth renter faces (she has to pay rent, buy her own supplies, and buy her own insurance), you’ll find the initial numbers are deceiving. Use the worksheets on the right to estimate your true take-home pay as either an employee or a booth renter. Consult a financial advisor for more details and help with your personal situation. Learn the difference between a booth renter and an independent contractor. Go to www.nailsmag.com/classification.

.com

Annual gross income (salary, service and retail commission, and tips)

Line 3.

_______

Estimated federal and state income tax (15% of line 1*)

_______

Cost for tools not provided by employer

_______

Line 5.

Total of lines 2-4

_______

Line 6.

Annual take-home pay (subtract line 5 from line 1)

_______

Line 4.

FOR A BOOTH RENTER: Line 1.

Annual gross income (gross service and retail income and tips)

_______

AVERAGE WEEKLY INCOME* more than $750 18.5%

ANNUAL EXPENSES $150 or less 16.8%

Line 2.

Space rental

Line 3.

Tools, supplies,

$651-$750 7.6%

$151-$250 13.8%

$551-$650 10.8%

$251-$350 10.3% $451-$550 11.2%

$351-$450 11.2%

*For nail techs and owners of all types

cost of retail product

_______

Line 4.

Phone

_______

Line 5.

Liability insurance

_______

Line 6.

Marketing and advertising

_______

Line 7.

Misc. expenses (accountant, mileage, bank fees, etc.)

_______

Line 8.

Total of lines 2-7

_______

Line 9.

Adjusted gross income (subtract line 8 from line 1)

.com

52% of nail techs receive a commission or other incentive for selling retail products.**

For more industry statistics, visit www.nailsmag.com/market-research. *Source: 2010-2011 NAILS Big Book **Source: 2011-2012 NAILS Big Book

_______

Line 10. SECA (self-employment contributions tax) (13.3% of line 9)

Commission rates vary, though 55.7% is the average for services.*

_______

Line 11.

_______

Estimated federal and state tax (15% of line 9*)

_______

Line 12.

Total of lines 10-11

_______

Line 13.

Annual take-home pay (subtract line 12 from line 9)

_______

*This is just an estimate. The actual amount will vary depending on your tax bracket. This rate reﬂects temporary tax cuts through February 2012. Ordinarily the rate is 7.65% for FICA and 15.3% for SECA.

16 | 2012 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK

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Starting Your Career

THE RESUME: SELLING YOURSELF SAMPLE RESUME

AMY STANTON 1234 Elm St., Bellevue, Ill. 62206 | cell: 618-555-6789 | amystantonnails@gmail.com

CAREER GOAL To bring my dedication and enthusiasm for nails to a full-service salon environment that emphasizes team spirit, customer service, sanitation, mentoring of employees, and continuing education.

EDUCATION Cahokia Vocational College (March 2012-July 2012) Won 2nd place in area student competition tion for acrylics category. Coursework includes pink-and-whites, light massage, foot reflexology, and d public health issues. Business courses include accounting and business management. Will take Illinois state license exam in August 2012. tivities Bellevue High School (June 2008) Received block “B” for achievement in extracurricular activities (girls’ softball and field hockey). Coursework included typing, computer science, and spreadsheets. sheets. Organized accounts for sales of baked goods, caps, and T-shirts for team activities. Field hockeyy team went to state championship games.

Make sure your resume is organized logically and typed neatly. Ask a friend to check for spelling errors. Plain white paper is fine. Be sure to give current contact information. Callers should be able to leave a message at any phone number you provide. Your contact information is your vital link to prospective employers, so be accessible. Make sure your outgoing message on your voicemail and e-mail address convey a professional image. State what you have to offer. Salon owners and managers aren’t just looking for experience. They want to see enthusiasm and potential. Give the name and address of your cosmetology school, your license number, or when you expect to take your board exams. List the main subjects your courses covered.

CONTINUING EDUCATION 5th Annual Nail Tech Networking Event of the Smokies, Gatlinburg, Tenn. (June 2012) 2) Premiere Orlando International Beauty Event (June 2012) Nail Structure Secrets Class by Lynn Lammers, IBS Las Vegas (June 2012) Having Fun with Color Gels & Glitters Class by Joanne Millar, IBS Las Vegas (June 2012) NAILS Magazine subscriber (January 2010 to present)

WORK EXPERIENCE Receptionist, Shear Delight Salon, Bellevue, Ill. (September 2009 to present) Duties include answering telephone, making appointments, making beverages, maintaining appearance off waiting area, greeting customers with offers of cucumber water and magazines, communication between stylists and customers when necessary. Hostess, Country Style restaurant, Bellevue, Ill. (June 2005 to September 2009) Duties included greeting customers, settling them at their tables, providing beverage service until server arrives, providing support for server.

COMMUNITY SERVICE & ACTIVITIES Visits with church youth group to area nursing homes to visit with residents; represented area youth at synod conference. Personal interests include camping and playing piano.

REFERENCES Mary Smith, Shear Delight Salon, Bellevue Ill. 618-331-5566 Irene Jones, teacher, Cahokia Vocational College, Cahokia, Ill. 618-334-2222 John Brown, youth group leader, Bellevue, Ill. 618-332-7777

List competitions you have entered, even if you didn’t place. It shows you are active in the industry. Include trade-related events you’ve attended such as shows, panel discussions, and continuing education courses. List any trade publications you read. Include jobs not in the beauty industry. Emphasize the aspects of previous employment that apply to the nail industry — such as greeting customers, providing good customer service, and communication. Include the dates of previous employment and names and phone numbers of supervisors. Including information about your extra-curricular activities is a personal decision. Some potential employers like to get a larger sense of you as a person. List three people who can vouch for your dependability and work habits. If you don’t have a previous employer who can be your reference, ask a teacher or mentor. Make sure your references agree to be listed on your resume.

18 | 2012 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK

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Starting Your Career

How to Ace Your Interview

DRESS THE PART 1 1. Look neat and professional. Your clothes should be clean and spotless, your shoes polished, and your jewelry minimal. Don’t show up to an interview wearing jeans, a too-short skirt, a low-cut blouse, dirty or smelly clothes, or anything else that could give off a sloppy ﬁrst impression. 22. Gear your look to the salon’s look. If it’s young and hip, it’s OK to dress more on the trendy side — keeping in mind that employers are trying to gauge the type of impression you’d make on clients. When in doubt, go more conservative. 33. Have impeccable nails, hair, and makeup, but don’t go over the top. Keep your look natural and subdued. 44. Accessorize well, but not to the extreme. Wear small earrings and feel free to bring a neutral-toned purse (with room for a notepad and pen for writing down any follow-up information).

WHERE TO LOOK 1 1. Surf the web for online classifieds. Some great sites include: > www.craigslist.org (go to your city’s page, then jobs — salon/spa/fitness) > www.beautytech.com/forums (go to classified ads, then employment classifieds) > www.behindthechair.com/jobs/start.aspx > www.probeauty.org/career-center > www.salonjobs.com > www.beautyjobs.com 22. Check with your school to see if it offers job-placement assistance. 33. Ask distributors, teachers, product educators, and established nail techs if they know of salons hiring new techs. 44. Look for salons where you’d like to work and approach the owner to find out whether the salon is hiring. 55. Go to trade shows, networking events, job fairs, and other industry events armed with resumes and your portfolio.

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PUTTING TOGETHER YOUR PORTFOLIO A portfolio with pictures of your work should show your skills while also letting the potential employer know you are organized. Purchase a simple binder from an office supply store, making sure to have plastic sheet covers, and include the following: > A nice photo of a full set of acrylic pink-andwhites. It’s one of the most basic services and most employers will appreciate your skills in this department. > A shot of toes. If you’re proficient in gels, then a photo of some nice gel toes, Rock Star toes, or other decorative toenails will be sure to impress. > If you have a creative side, include up to five photos of your nail art. Even if you don’t plan on selling nail art as a service, it still shows the potential employer you are passionate about nails. > Photos of any other nail specialties (wraps, Minx nail coatings, party nails, etc.). > A copy of your license and any other accreditations or certificates you’ve earned (like completion of manufacturer courses, first-aid classes, or beauty school nail competition placements). >>>

ILLUSTRATION BY YUIKO SUGINO

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Starting Your Career

DURING THE INTERVIEW 11. Be sure to arrive a little before the appointment. It’s always better to wait outside and take a minute to compose yourself than it is to rush when you’re running late. Try to give yourself plenty of time for traffic. 22. Don’t chew gum, play with your hair, bite your nails, or fidget. And do not dress casually, eg. jeans or provocative clothes. At a minimum, adhere to a smart, casual attire. 33. Shake hands with people and look them in the eye. It shows confidence and openness. 44. In the interview, relax, but use your best manners. Remember to just breathe when you feel nervous. 55. Discuss what you have to offer the salon, such as energy and a fresh perspective. 66. Research the salon at which you are applying by perusing its website, online reviews, etc. Discuss various aspects of the salon with the person interviewing you, as that knowledge is an expression of interest and sincerity. 77. Keep the conversation professional, upbeat, and to-the-point. Don’t ramble and don’t criticize teachers or previous employers. Do not discuss any personal issues or political/religious views. 88. Be prepared to let the salon owner know why you left your previous job or career. If you left on less-than-optimal terms, cast the situation in a positive light, such as: It wasn’t the right place for me, or I needed more support to grow. 99. If you have to do nails during the interview, make sure your tools and products are neat and in a professional-looking toolbox. (If you have to bring a model, she should look as professional as you do.) 1010. Be prepared to discuss your career goals and expectations for this job, such as mentoring or continuing education. It is OK to ask what the work environment at the salon or spa is like and what type of products are used and retailed. 1111. Don’t appear to be only interested in the money. Most owners feel it is acceptable to inquire about how the company compensates, but to wait until the second interview to discuss how much (see page 14 for information on different compensation systems). 1212. When discussing work hours, try to be flexible and open to the needs of the salon, but forthright about your own limitations. If you have to be limited on certain days, try to offer more time elsewhere on the schedule.

HOW YOU’LL KNOW IF IT’S A GOOD FIT Think about the advantages and disadvantages of different salon work environments.

NAILS-ONLY

FULL-SERVICE

SPA

ADVANTAGES

DISADVANTAGES

Other nail techs to learn from; coworkers who share your passion for nails; coworkers to handle clients when you are sick or out

No stylists or estheticians to get referrals from

Stylists and estheticians to get referrals from; other clients to draw from

No one to network with or ask questions; nails might not be a priority

Usually charge higher prices; quiet, spa-like atmosphere, more coworkers to get referrals from

Most spas don’t offer nail enhancements; nails might not be a priority

COMMON INTERVIEW QUESTIONS Be prepared to answer more than just “yes” or “no” questions. Practice your responses to these interview questions by role-playing with classmates or a friend. > What service do you ﬁnd the most enjoyable to do? Which is the least? > How will you market yourself and draw in your clientele? > Why is it important to get manicures and pedicures? > How personable are you with your clients? > What will your reaction be if a client says she doesn’t like your work and wants a refund?

> Are you willing to promote others in the salon and how? > If you were experiencing a conﬂict with a fellow employee, how would you handle the situation? > What are the possible consequences of using dirty implements? > What are your strengths and weaknesses? > How long does it take you to do a full set of gel? What about a full set of acrylic?

WHAT TO BRING 1. Research (be prepared to tell the salon owner or hiring manager why you are a good ﬁt with the salon). 2. Resume (see page 18 for tips on putting your resume together). 3. Portfolio (see “Putting Together Your Portfolio”). 4. Pens and a notepad. 5. Check before the interview to see if you should bring a model and product to demonstrate your skills. 6. Your best attitude and energy.

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Building Your Business

67 Ways to Fill Your Chair in 6 months You’ve graduated from school, secured a job in a great salon, and now all you need is some clients. According to successful industry veterans, you can ﬁll your book in six months. Here are 67 ways to do just that. START WITH YOU Make sure your nails look beautiful. You should be your own best advertisement. If you have a specialty (pink-and-whites, nail art) wear it on your own nails. 2 Look professional. No one’s saying you should wear a suit — but wear clean, pressed, tailored comfortable clothes. Dress to the salon’s image. 3 Develop an elevator speech. This is your 30 second intro, explaining who you are, what you do, where you work, and one interesting fact potential clients will remember you by. 4 Create a recognizable brand. Have a logo professionally designed and use it on everything. 5 Get to a mentor. Find an experienced tech (maybe in your salon) who can show you the ropes. Find help for speciﬁc questions online. Educational books, CDs, and DVDs are also available: one to try is Building a Nail Department, available for $39 at www.summitsalon.com. 1

6 Watch your language. “Colorful” language is best left out of the salon. Never gossip about clients. business cards. Order er 7 Get professional cards that include the he salon name, address, phone number, er, website, and your name and title. Putt a referral offer on the back. 8 Be on time. If you’re running late, call or text the client, if possible, apologize, and offer a small complimentary service (like a paraffin dip) if a client must wait. 9 Set professional, ﬁnancial, and personal goals. Write them down, set time aside weekly to complete them, then cross them off your list. 10 Track your progress. Create a digital spreadsheet or physical notebook with your daily, weekly, monthly, and annual goals. Set aside time each day to keep on top of it. Try Michael Cole’s Jump Journal, available at www.salondev.com. >>>

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Building Your Business GET THE WORD OUT 11 Shamelessly self-promote. Join a local networking group and do a demo at one of the meetings. Key chains, pens, or nail ﬁles with your salon name on them make great gifts. 12 Always carry your business cards. Don’t leave home without them. 13 No marketing works as well as personal referrals. Advertising gets your name out there, but most clients come to the salon through personal invitation and referrals. 14 Start with family and friends. Give free pedicures, gel polish manicures, and full sets to your family and friends. They will market for you, and they will be honest with you about your work and how it can be improved. 15 Have a website. If you don’t know where to start, ask a friend who has some web design experience. Make sure to include your bio, salon address, hours of operation, service descriptions and pricing, and salon and service photos. Also set up a Facebook page for your business and post promotions, specials, and last-minute openings. There are many new Facebook apps you can add to your page, including scheduling options, promotions, and contests. 16 Stop in at all the businesses near your salon. Introduce yourself and offer a special price to the employees. Drop off gift bags with salon info and samples. 17 Work together. Barter services with other stylists in your salon. Help to promote each other and keep business in your salon. 18 Give a free full set and business cards to people in the public eye. In exchange they should give out your card whenever someone comments on their nails. Good candidates for this arrangement are ﬂight attendants, bank tellers, realtors, and jewelry or makeup p counter salespeople. p p

19 Start an e-newsletter. Use this to announce your latest services and offer promotional discounts. ConstantContact.com and RatePoint. com are two popular choices. 20 Leave an extra tip for the waitress. Along with the cash tip, leave a gift certificate for $10 or $20 toward services with you. Include an expiration date of no more than 60 days out. Leave a couple for the server/bartender to hand out. 21 Do some wedding prep. Get friendly with bridal salons, photographers, flower shops, and wedding planners for referrals. Also, rent a booth at a bridal show to reach new clients. 22 Branch out. If your salon doesn’t do hair, trade business cards with hair salons that don’t do nails. 23 Make gift certificates available online. Work with your web designer or www. spaemergency.com on this convenient service for clients. 24 Use your retail items wisely. Put stickers with the salon name and phone number on all retail items. Personalize retail bags with the salon name. 25 Get involved in your community. Local charities, sporting programs, and local government and school events, directories, and brochures offer great exposure — often in exchange for a small donation. 26 Set up a referral arrangement. Contact neighboring businesses to see if they will give their customers your card. 27 Promote, promote, promote. Step out of your salon to promote your business. Hand out flyers and consider paid advertising online or elsewhere. 25

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MASTER YOUR ETIQUETTE 28 Make a good ﬁrst impression. Greet clients as they walk in the door. Make sure they see a clean, organized salon. 29 Be prepared. Always be ready before the client walks in. 30 Keep the music down. Unless it’s part of your salon theme, don’t have a TV or radio dominating the salon atmosphere. 31 Don’t speak poorly of other salons or techs. You can listen and empathize, but don’t add your own criticism. 32 Stay off the phone. Take care of clients who call, but keep the personal calls and texts for personal time. 33 Act as if every client is your only client. Give her your full attention. 34 Offer the client a drink. Tea, water, coffee, and juice are great options. 34

35 Find out your clients’ nail history. Offer services that best suit their lifestyle. 36 Keep your door open. An open door and a “Walk-ins Welcome” sign is very inviting. Be at the salon even when you don’t have scheduled clients. 37 Offer more than the price. When you receive a price inquiry, sell the service. Say, “For a pink-and-white full set, we charge $50, and that includes...” 38 Keep your personal life personal. It’s OK to answer questions when asked, but steer the conversation away from you. 39 Watch your words. Instead of saying, “No, that won’t work,” say, “That appointment has been taken.” Then offer an alternative. 40 Offer standing appointments. If a client can’t do a standing appointment, make sure to at least book her next appointment. 41 Conﬁrm appointments 48 hours before the appointment time. This way if your client reschedules, you still have time to ﬁll the opening. 42 Be reliable. Especially when you are building new client relationships, you need to let them know they can depend on you.

MAKE THE SALON A WELCOMING PLACE 43 Keep it neat. Make sure your table is clean and the client sees that you disinfect your implements. 44 Make your table an oasis. Products should smell, feel, and look good. 45 Be unique. Come up with unique signature services (like a Rosemary Citrus Pedicure) that your clients can’t get anywhere else. 46 Encourage them to test products. Display “try me” bottles of retail products on your table. 47 Use convenience technology. Offer online booking so clients can book appointments at all hours. Look for smart phone scheduling apps. Also allow clients to text their appointment 43

requests to you. 48 Don’t ignore the other half. Create services that invite men into the salon. 49 Show them what you have to offer. Keep retail displays organized and wellstocked. 50 Put a white board near the salon entrance. Update it daily with the services and times you’re available. 51 Schedule clients back to back. That way they’ll see other people in your chair. 52 Decorate your front window. Promote services with attention-getting window displays. 53 Pay attention to the details. Notice special needs and subtly try to make a client’s visit easier. >>>

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HAVE A BONDING EXPERIENCE 54 Offer only what they can handle. If you give away full sets, make sure the person’s lifestyle can accommodate ﬁll appointments. 55 Educate your clients. During the ﬁrst appointment, tell clients what steps you are taking in each service and why. Let them see how serious you are about nail care and helping them maintain beautiful, healthy nails. 56 Develop a client recovery system. Think of a way to recapture clients you haven’t seen for a while. Set aside time and send them a note with an offer to get them back in with you. 57 Enlist the team. Get the receptionist, owner, and employees on board to create a unique, consistent salon atmosphere. 58 Give a “commitment card” to every new client. This is a small card that lists your commitment to the client on one side, and her commitment to yyou and her nails on the other. her.

59 Be available. When you are building your clientele, it’s important to be at the salon during hours that are convenient to the client. 60 Send cards to your clients. At the holidays, on their birthdays, and for referrals, send cards thanking them for their loyalty. If you want to, include a coupon for a discounted service. 61 Say thanks. Send thank-you notes to new clients to show your appreciation for their business. 62 New client call backs. Call new clients within a few days, inquire about their service, ask for feedback, thank them for coming in, and tell them you look forward to seeing them again soon. 57

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66 Niche marketing. Figure out what you’re best at (enhancements, Minx nail coatings, pedicures, etc.) and create a name for yourself in your area for this type of service. 67 Know about diseases and disorders of the natural nail. Be able to give advice on treatment, and know where to refer clients for help. Have a list of specialists who you trust — dermatologists, podiatrists, etc. po

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Building Your Business

MARKET YOUR SERVICES You have a job. That’s a major accomplishment! Now make sure you have eye-catching promotional materials to lure clients to your table. GET ON THE NET

BUSINESS CARDS > Figure out how you want your card rd to look. Do you want it to work as a mini-brochure or be minimalistic in itss message? Take your target clientele into account and cater to them. > Focus on what you do best. If you have a specialty be sure to list it on your card. If there isn’t one particular service that makes your offerings different from others, you can emphasize things like “expertise,”” “personal service,” or “full service.” Or you may want to o emphasize your commitment to sanitation. > Include vital information. All business cards should include ude your name, salon name, complete address with zip code, phone one number (with area code!), website, and e-mail address. > Don’t list every service you offer. If you do, your card d will become crowded and hard to read. Leave space around information mation so it stands out and organize it neatly so it’s easy to understand. nd. > Use the back of your card as an appointment reminder. It’s t’s also a good spot to mention your cancellation policy. Consider including luding a mini-map if your location is hard to find. > Get your cards professionally designed and printed. Two good printing options are Vistaprint.com and Gotprint.com, both of which have budgetfriendlyy p prices.

A FEW F GOOD REFERRALS > Client referrals: The There’s no greater feeling than new clients coming to you because a ccurrent client referred them. Return the favor by developing a client referral program. It can be as detailed as setting up a punch-card system or as simple as telling clients about it. If a client refers a certain amount of new clients to you, give her a discount off her next service. > Physician referrals: Nail techs should never diagnose a nail problem on a client. If you notice a problem bring it up and stress the importance of medical care. Your clients are more apt to follow your advice if you recommend a local physician who specializes in nail care. Ask friends, family, and clients for doctor recommendations, then set up interviews with them. > Business referrals: Establish relationships with local businesses, especially if you have something in common with them. For example, if you tend to cater to young, city girls, establish a referral system with a boutique they frequent. Place business cards in their boutique and return the favor by placing their cards in your salon.

> Create a business website. te. If you can’t pay someone one to design your website, enlist the help of techsavvy friends. They can either give you a discount, or you can trade out your services for theirs. > Get all Googled. Type in “nails” and your city name in Google or another search engine. What is the ﬁrst thing that comes up as a hit? What comes up on the right-hand “sponsored” side? Is it your salon’s name? If not, get your name at the top of the heap. Make sure your website is “Google-search” friendly and consider sponsoring the search for your area. For more on search engine optimization, go to www.nailsmag.com/seo. > Network online. Twitter, Facebook, Pinterest, and Nail Art Gallery allow for professional networking. Create a page and use it for all you can, including posting monthly discounts as bulletins. For more on this topic, go to www. nailsmag.com/socialnetworking fortechs. > Speak up. Visit regional news outlets’ blogs and discussion boards often, especially ones related to beauty. Not only can you see how the latest trends are being received, but you can also stay active in discussions and sign every message with your name and salon contact info.

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GET THE WORD OUT ON YOUR BUSINESS 1 1. Sign up your salon. Place signs on your salon’s window advertising your services. Or, set up creative window displays to help draw clients into the salon. 2 2. Pound the pavement. Make fliers talking about your services and place them under windshield wipers at busy malls or high school functions (like football games). You should check the lot owner’s solicitation policies first. 3 3. Get schooled. Many campuses have community bulletin boards that allow free posting. Place fliers about your salon on every board possible. This is great especially during formals and prom season. 4 4. Be a chambermaid. Find out what benefits your local chamber of commerce offers its members. Chambers will often list businesses in a member directory and/or provide networking opportunities. 5 5. Join the welcome wagon. Welcome new community residents to the area with a gift certificate for your services. You can likely purchase the names from the chamber of commerce or go through a third-party service that sends out its own welcome packets, like Moving Targets (www. movingtargets.com) and Our Town America (www. ourtownamerica.com). 6 6. Be high profile. Offer free or discounted nail services to clients who work in jobs where their hands are high profile and often at the center of attention, like store cashiers, flight attendants, and bank tellers. Others are bound to notice if they have a beautiful set of pink-and-whites. 77. Give back. If people see you care about the community, they’ll not only notice your awesome set of glitter nails as you pick up trash with the highway beautification project, but they’ll also be more willing to spend their money at your salon. 8 8. Find wedded bliss. Most cities have a few wedding expos each year. If it’s in your budget, consider renting a booth to show off your wedding-day designs. If you normally work with a hairdresser and makeup artist and rent the booth together, you’ll save on rental fees. 9 9. Sleep on it. If you’re near a hotel or motel, make extra copies of your price list and brochure and ask the front desk to keep them on hand for guests who are looking for a nail tech. 1010. Wear it. Of course you’re already wearing a beautiful set of your own nails. But what about the rest of you? Instead of being a walking billboard for your favorite sports team, be your own walking billboard. Have T-shirts made with your logo and website on them. Wear them to casual community events (like PTA meetings or watching a parade).

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Building Your Business

Retailing Timid

Retail can be intimidating — if you think it makes you look like a salesperson. Rather than thinking of retail as “making the sale,” consider it a way of offering your professional opinion.

FOR THE

hat’s your biggest reservation about selling retail? The products you use offer no benefit for your clients? You prefer clients avoid maintenance at home? Clients can buy what they need at Wal-Mart? It sounds ridiculous, doesn’t it? Of course your clients would benefit from using salon products at home. They’re certainly buying somewhere. Are they buying from you? Varied reservations about not selling retail include: I didn’t sign up for this. I’m a nail tech, not a sales person. I’m creative, I shouldn’t have to sell. It makes me uncomfortable (so I shouldn’t have to do it). I hate when people try to sell to me. Clients will stop coming to me because they think I’m trying to sell them something. Clients will say no.

1. Product knowledge: “Many times I find techs are scared to recommend products because they don’t see themselves as an expert,” says Burkholder. “They don’t really know the benefits of using the product. They may not truly believe in the product, so they don’t have confidence recommending the client purchase.” Burkholder finds this unacceptable. “You have to know the distinct benefits of each of your products,” she says. “That way, if a client wants to buy on impulse — because she has seen an ad or a shelf-talker or has had a friend rave about a new product — the tech can either confirm it’s a product that will help the client or recommend a product that will work better.” Burkholder not only educates clients on the benefits of the hand and foot care products in the salon, she also makes it her business to recommend hair products. “If I hear my client say she hates her hair because it’s dry or has no shine, you can bet I’m going to recommend a product to help her,” says Burkholder.

BY MICHELLE PRATT

“Many times, the fear of retail comes from a subconscious place,” says Steve Gomez, professional development manager for Milady Cengage Learning. Gomez says techs often have a fear of the clients’ perception of them when they sell. “Techs need to acknowledge that feeling but realize it’s a misperception,” he says. Think about it. If you go to the chiropractor, acupuncturist, or gym, for example, do you get upset when the person you’re consulting with offers an opinion? It may be a supplement that boosts your immune system, or a calming tea, or a protein shake. Is your initial reaction, “I bet they just want my money!” More than likely, if you have a relationship with the professional, you take a moment to consider why the person is recommending the product and then decide if you agree it’s

2. Scripting: “Scripting sounds like a terrible thing to do, but the more you do it, the more natural it becomes. Eventually, you don’t even realize you’re doing it,” says Burkholder. When Milady coach Steve Gomez introduced the idea of scripting to the salon, Burkholder resisted. “It sounded so fake; so rote,” she explains. Gomez reminded her she already used rehearsed answers to clients’ common questions. Scripting provides a way to be prepared to talk about different products in the salon. “Now I’m able to describe what oils are used to moisturize cuticles and how a strengthener or top coat works,” says Burkholder. Read the manufacturers’ product info to learn the benefits of the product and how the product is supposed to be used to achieve those benefits. Write down and memorize the information so you can talk easily about it when a client asks.

3. Explain your products as you use them: “Explaining a product is just as important as recommending one,” says Burkholder. How many times have you bought a product only to be disillusioned. You probably told your friends the product “didn’t work.” To avoid this happening with products from your salon, Burkholder suggests explaining every step of the service. Pick up the ridge filler bottle, for example, show it to the client and say, “This is ridge filler. We use it for a smooth finish. When you use it at home, this is how you apply it.” Then do the same for the polish and the top coat and the cuticle oil. Explain every product to the client.

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WORDS OF ENCOURAGEMENT Here’s more advice from Gina Marie Burkholder: > There should be no anxiety on your part or the client’s part. Offer recommendations because you believe your client will truly beneﬁt. > Don’t get discouraged; people often don’t buy until the third recommendation. > Believe in yourself. You’re the expert ... and clients want you to be. > Read the client. You won’t recommend the same products to everyone. > Don’t be cocky. > Know your salon’s products!

4. Place products you recommend in a retail basket: “We’re required to place three to five products we use or recommend in a small retail basket,” says Burkholder. As she discusses the products she is using, Burkholder places it in the basket. Perhaps her client will say something about a friend, family member, or event that triggers her to think, “Oh, they could use/would love the XYZ product.” Burkholder gets up from her desk, shows the client the product, and explains why she thinks it’s relevant to what the client just mentioned. Then, she places it in the basket. At some point, perhaps while the client chooses polish or dries her nails, Burkholder takes the basket to the front desk. When the client checks out, the receptionist says, “Gina put a couple of items aside for you. Are you interested in purchasing any of these items today?” The clients get personal recommendations, they don’t make a purchasing decision in front of the nail tech, and they aren’t distracted by all the products on the shelf, which can be overwhelming. These disciplines can make talking about retail an easy segue with any client, but salons can provide additional ways to aid staff. A customer reward program allows clients to receive benefits, discounts, and free gifts. Shelf-talkers, fully stocked shelves, and aesthetically pleasing displays provoke interest in clients who love to buy something special for themselves when they’re in the salon. Gomez says salons have experienced good results by wearing T-shirts advertising the salon’s reward program, a new product, a sale, or a seasonal service. If your salon sells merchandise, have staff wear and use the products so they can make sincere recommendations. something you want. In the same way, when clients come in for a nail service, they consult you as a professional. They want immediate results (the nail service), but more often than not, they also want long-term results. They want consistently pretty hands and feet. They expect you to have products to help them get the results they want. Gina Marie Burkholder, spa department manager at Salon Art-Tiff in Ephrata, Pa., is a retail superstar, regularly selling over 20% of her service totals in retail. Is it because she’s a natural saleswoman? No. Is it because she gets a cut of everything she sells? (She doesn’t.) Burkholder says it’s because she loves what she does, and she cares about her clients and truly wants them to have the best experience she can give them. “When clients take product home from the spa it turns an appointment into an experience,” says Burkholder.

Colorful displays and fully stocked shelves draw a client’s attention to the retail display, making it easier to talk about products that would beneﬁt her.

The secret to Burkholder’s success is her mindset. First, she says, you need to realize you are in a position to help your clients. You’re not likely to feel comfortable selling retail for the 10% bonus your salon may offer or to meet a goal your manager demands. You will feel comfortable selling retail only when you realize your knowledge helps clients, and they are paying you for your professional recommendation. Second, listen to your customers. It sounds simple, but active listening is a deliberate discipline. When you listen actively, you hear the needs of a client. Burkholder tells the story of a client who went on and on about how excited she was because her granddaughter was coming to town. She bought a gift certificate for a pedicure, thinking her granddaughter would enjoy the pampering. Burkholder suggested a bottle of mango foot cream to go with the gift certificate. “How great is that?” Burkholder says with excitement in her voice. “Wouldn’t you love to get a some beautiful foot cream with a gift card for a pedicure?” Her motivation wasn’t the “sell”; her motivation was seeing her client get excited imagining her granddaughter opening the gift. “The granddaughter is going to love using the foot cream, and every time she does, she’ll have a fond memory of her experience here, and of her grandmother,” says Burkholder. Burkholder understands she is in a position every day to educate clients and to offer them products that will turn the ordinary into the extraordinary. “It’s not a mindset that comes naturally to everyone,” says Burkholder. “But it’s one everyone can develop.” Burkholder holds a “client consultation” with all new clients so she is able to learn about their needs. “I ask clients what brought them into the salon, what they love about their nails, and what they would like me to do to help them,” she says. “Some clients only want their nails to look pretty for an event, or they want to come in to feel pampered, and that’s OK.” Most clients, however, mention areas of concern: Their nails have trouble growing or they split easily or they suffer from dry cuticles. Burkholder tailors her service to use products that address those areas of concern. (If most of your clients are regulars, you can still conduct a “client consultation.” During a regular appointment, ask clients what originally brought them into the salon and if there is anything they wish you could “fix” about their nails.) Along with the client consultation, Burkholder’s salon has other systems in place that make recommending products more natural. In the numbered boxes, she explains how her salon has made retail a part of the culture. 2012 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK | 33

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l i n t o the nails h Whether it’s via phone call, e-mail, or in person meet-ups, we editors at NAILS Magazine ﬁeld a lot of questions from inquisitive salon owners and nail techs. And we love it, because it means you’re seeking the answers that will help you improve your business. We hear questions across all facets of the nail industry, encompassing technique, style, business, and health, and we’ve compiled a guide of answers to the most popular questions we receive. (And, if you somehow have a question that’s not answered in this guide, you’re still welcome to drop us a line at editor@nailsmag.com!)

Advertiser OPI

China Glaze

Gelish

Seche

Young Nails

ibd

Jessica Cosmetics

Artistic Nail Design

en Vogue

EZ Flow

Light Elegance

GiGi

Bio Sculpture

Akzéntz

Backscratchers

Tammy Taylor

SuperNail

LeChat

2012 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK

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the nails hotlin e

how do I clean dried acrylic off my nail brush?

The best way to clean an acrylic brush is using a brush cleaner specifically made for it. There are some manufacturers who make really good ones, and that is what I use. Acrylic brushes are made of sable so you need to make sure you don’t contaminate the brush. Monomer can work well between services, but brush cleaner does the best job. Some acetone has small traces of oil that can contaminate the brush. Also make sure to use only one brush for a product line; don’t use it for two different acrylic products. This goes for odorless as well. Pulling on the bristles will also damage the brush and the shape, so make sure you don’t pull them when cleaning. If there is already dried acrylic in the brush, it is best to purchase a new one. — Norma Sproles is an educator and guest artist for OPI.

s ’ t a wh

ay to the best w to ls remove ge ic? yl apply acr emove r If I don’t yers la all of the acrylic ll of gel, wi ? is to file re -off gels k a o s n still adhe d for no

metho removal adhere to gels will The only t s ne o m , have do stion . ond que rsonally c e a e p them off s I r . in e u s r o xtu an u g er y urface te s thinly as you c To answ s il t a h n ig r e to th ith the e gel a through lk acrylic w mes. You file th a ry e c r a b e r th y ti not to rough fo e e this man , being careful c b n t s a u h c ace m file e the rf k it u r s ta g l u e o g 0 y 5 1 left. ting oth too smo m the gel that is g . The exis is th a it e If n . e b n o erly while fili arating fr ere prop g or sep tural nail tely. The ic to adh a in n p p e o th p rylic rough to immedia mage of the ac broken th isting gel, stop e v a will da h u If yo nail and the ex l n ra w tu o rk too. a d n ning r the prep wo fo d h o rs o a g and thin h o you do is way to ake sure on for lifting. 150-grit M . s r OPI. il a n nt’s ucator fo est reas d g e ig n b a your clie e is th Doran r prep is — Renee Imprope

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technique

how

do I control the gel when I put it on the nail? (I’m used to applying acrylic nails.)

The first thing to keep in mind when switching from acrylics to gels is to lighten up. Most of us die-hard acrylic users are accustomed to the heavyhanded patting and pulling of acrylic. But if you’re finding that your gels are running, bubbling, getting lumpy and bumpy, are not strong enough, and just plain out of control — you need to lighten up on that brush. For instance, as you stroke your gel into place, use a light touch with your brush as if you were stroking the air — no pressure. The gentler you are, the more control you will have over your gel; the heavier the hand, the less control and the bigger the mess. Also try using more of the tip of the brush rather than the body of the brush. If your brush is covered in gel it is difficult to keep control. So lighten up and use the tip to gain control. — Laura Sloggat is an educator for American International Industries.

2012 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK

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f re q u e n t

GelColor by OPI

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ICONIC OPI COLORS LIGHTNING SPEED CURE WEEKS OF GLOSSY WEAR SIMPLE REMOVAL The new standing salon appointment!

how do I convince clients to try GelColor by OPI? Wear it! Your own nails are your best advertisement and will sell your services everywhere you go!

how

do I explain the difference between acrylic nails and GelColor by OPI to my clients? Show it. GelColor by OPI nails look just like natural nails that have been polished with Nail Lacquer. Overlay one side of a nail palette (available from OPI) with acrylic and finish the other with GelColor. Clients will see the thin, perfectly polished difference.

some

of my clients are afraid to try anything “artificial” on their nails. How do I entice these clients? Start with toes! GelColor by OPI is perfect for pedicures. Instantly dry, your client can slip directly into shoes without fear of ruining her service, and the color lasts for weeks. Once your client sees the great results on her toes, she’ll be more apt to try it on her fingertips!

client had a color gel service at another salon and the color didn’t last. How do I convince her to try again? Offer a guarantee. Adopt an “It lasts, or you bring it back” policy. Then, back up your promise by also adopting precision prep practices that ensure long-lasting results with GelColor by OPI. Spending a little more time prepping nails properly will pay off in profits!

how do I break the pink-and-white monotony? Take this classic look to the next level. Give it a twist with these techniques: ěũ ., (-#ũ36.ũ"##/ũ2' "#2 ěũ (-(2'ũ3(/2ũ6(3'ũ ũ2'(,,#1ũ2' "# ěũ ""ũ)#6#+ı+(*#ũ#, #++(2',#-32

SCAN. REGISTER. LEARN.

www.opi.com

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the nails hotlin e

how

ithout w e v r u c C a correct can I make ieve an oval shape? h a tip and ac

technique

why

are we urged to use cuticle oil if it causes acrylic to lift? Oils on the nail plate can block adhesion, but they cannot dissolve the product once it has bonded to the nail plate. Even small amounts of oil on the nail plate will block areas where the product will normally adhere. But once product adhesion to the plate is established, oils will not break this bond. Applying a penetrating oil to an enhancement surface can be very useful. Penetrating oils, such as jojoba, can add flexibility and toughness to the enhancement. — Doug Schoon is an industry chemist and chief scientific advisor for CND.

I was not a tip fan myself for many years, but now with the well-less tips you can create a shape that looks like a sculpt but is easy to apply. Most come with built-in Ccurves, and if you apply acrylic you can squeeze in an even deeper C-curve. As with anything new it may take extra time until you perfect them, but once you do you will like them. I truly believe every nail tech should be able to sculpt as well as put a tip on. The benefit of a good tip job, I feel, can offset the work of a sculpt because it takes less time and always has that perfect smile line. For the oval shaping I have a system. I use a stiletto tip, and after I cut the tip’s length, I file a flat spot in the center of the tip as a guideline, which helps make the shape consistent. I do all my shaping on the tip before I add the product too. It makes for less work and a smoother nail to file at the end. I use stiletto tips for round nails as well because they have the shape already built in and it is easier to shape round or oval. Try not to file the sides in for the shape at the smile line. Do that a little below the ears. I start by rounding the tip first then I bring the sides in more to taper the entire tip. Another little secret is after I’ve done my shaping on each nail I’ll compare it to all the others. I measure index, middle, and ring first to make sure the length on each nail bed is the same and that each white tip is the same so they all match. Then I measure the thumbs and pinkies against each other to check they are in proportion. — Vicki Peters is an education consultant and 30-year nail veteran.

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the edito k s a I know you need rs a high-res image. What does that mean? The resolution of an image indicates the number of dots per inch (DPI). Highresolution means a lot of dots per inch, in our case, it means an image that is at least 4-in. by 6-in. at 300 DPI so that it prints clearly in the magazine. Any smaller than that and the photo runs the risk of being blurry when printed. In general, if you take a photo with a digital camera that’s at least 4 mega-pixels (most cell phone cameras don’t meet this criteria; most standalone digital cameras do), then the photo should be fine to publish in NAILS Magazine. Just make sure that you don’t crop or otherwise change it before sending (which can lower the resolution) and to send the photo at its original, largest size (don’t let your e-mail program shrink it to make it easier to e-mail).

2012 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK

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f re q u e n t

China Glaze Challenge: Replicate Celebrity Nail Looks with Polish

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how do I recreate the top celebrity nail trends with polish?

The word on everybody’s tips is . . . color! Top celebrities are setting the trends by rocking fun, bright nail designs to complement their unique styles. Have a client looking for a fun twist on a classic mani? Try these simple but trendy looks, made popular by the stars and fashionistas who live in color. With a wide range of polish in the hottest shades, China Glaze Nail Lacquer can help you accomplish these quick nail art looks. From the red carpet to your salon, China Glaze Nail Lacquer will have you and your clients looking like today’s hottest celebrities.

Style Icon

Get the Look Louboutin Manicure

Adele

Apply two coats of China Glaze Stone Cold and top with China Glaze Fast Forward Top Coat for a shiny finish On the underside of the nail, apply a thick coat of China Glaze Adventure-Redy Start with two coats of China Glaze White on White

Tuxedo Nails Zooey Deschanel

With a dotting tool, create a bow tie at the base of the nail and three “buttons” down the center of the nail using China Glaze Liquid Leather Accent Nail

Apply two coats of China Glaze Shocking Pink, except for one nail on each hand (most commonly, the ring finger).

Beyonce

Complete the manicure by painting the accent nail a contrasting shade, such as China Glaze Aquadelic. Ombre Manicure Lauren Conrad

Starting a the pinkie finger, apply one shade on each nail. Go from lightest to darkest shades. Use China Glaze Light As Air, Sweet Hook, Spontaneous, Urban-Night and Crimson to achieve this ombre look.

French with a Twist Jennifer Lopez

Begin with two coats of China Glaze Poetic. On the tips, apply a thin layer across the nail of China Glaze Velvet Bow.

www.chinaglaze.com

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the nails hotlin e

how

e do I handl my runner ls ai client’s toen re when they a f eo on the verg ? coming off

clients to several n e p p a h is situation lly had th and each rs a e y I’ve actua e r th stances nners) ove the circum n o g in d n (mostly ru pe ifferent, de till is. is slightly d hed the old toenail s a new c a lf off and tt a a h is il a n e and how ear a holwhen a to you can h , it Normally, th a e ail with ing undern f the old n one is form en you tap on top o er the wh check und y ll a u is v low sound I k. status is, wood stic achment tt a e th an orange t a en back to see wh alls, and th w e id s free edge e th ck around then I che is on the cle. t the nail a th r a e at the cuti h leaving it ’t see or ommend c re I y If you can n e ured man lling off, th I’ve pedic . d e e h n s verge of fa o l t il wors ntually it w is, but the th e d k li te alone. Eve s s e e sugg h toe injuri enail, so I to e th clients wit r e d f blood un inwas full o tor. c o d a lood, pus, it to oto (no b h p sh, she show li e o p th the g from d remove I’ ), il But judgin as a n w e it around th if I could. If re flamed skin free edge and file it h it ove the e client rem or do I th e v gently clip a h d n ome off, I’ problems, about to c e liability th remove t to n a g w in y t no y me tr b in a self. I do p t n e , you can use the cli underneath h g u o want to ca n e h in is toug , it. If the sk ove polish crylic. i water, rem in, then d e p e sculpt an a th f o res ot out a thicker Keep the fo part with d re neutral e o ft li m e h it th w in h ll s fi li o p ent and arn the cli e nail and th W . ff le u b b a e y c tl ti gen s no ple days. won’t be a ed in a cou h s ll’s colors so it ly b a b owner of Ji il will pro ght is the ri y. K that the na W , n ll e Ji re — ling G w o B in , s il for Na — A Place

40 |

technique

can

you overcure gel?

Over-curing a gel is possible. Some gels will discolor when over-cured and some will lose the gloss, while others will do both or neither. So much of this depends on the gel and the curing light. Each manufacturer should be able to assist the nail technician in what issues they may see with over-curing the product. If the desire is to freeze the gel in the light for 15 seconds and not over-cure the gel, then I would advise only freezing one finger at a time — holding the rest of the fingernails out of the light (almost like playing “Twister” when you cure the gels). — Jim McConnell is the CEO of gel manufacturer Light Elegance.

what

is the trick to getting dark glitters to cure when doing rock star gel nails? I cut the opaque glitters with a clear, translucent glitter. I usually use Young Nails Crushed Pearl from the Heavenly collection, and it gives the darker colors just a little extra sparkle and hologram effect. The translucent glitter also allows the UV light to cure better. Some techs will do a longer initial curing time if it’s a dark glitter, about four minutes for the first cure. But I try to apply dark gel glitters very thin, because the thicker it is, the longer you need to cure. With a thin application I can do a normal two-minute cure and it works fine. — Rhonda Kibuk is the owner of The Purple Pinkie in Ford City, Pa.

2012 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK

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f re q u e n t

Gelish by Hand and Nail Harmony

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who is Gelish best suited for?

Gelish is designed for clients who want to maintain natural nails but don’t want to deal with the constant chipping and peeling that is associated with traditional polish. If you notice that your client is particularly hard on her hands, this would be the perfect opportunity to introduce her to Gelish. The formulation looks amazing, lasts up to three weeks, does not damage the natural nail bed, and comes in a wide array of eye-popping colors to suite any clients’ needs.

Traditional Gel is now UnTraditional Fully Cured Gel Nails In : 5, 20 & 30 Seconds

how is Gelish different from traditional nail polish manicure? When receiving a traditional nail polish manicure, the client spends most of her time waiting for her polish to dry. Generally, traditional nail polish can take up to two hours to dry completely. Gelish is cured by a LED lamp within minutes and the manicure is done by the time the service is finished. Not only are the nails dry, but they are strong enough to withstand accidental knocks against objects.

GELISH® HARD-GEL

how

is a Gelish manicure service different from acrylic nail enhancements? Drills are never used or needed with Gelish and the removal process doesn’t tear or thin out the nail bed.

can the client apply Gelish at home?

Easy to apply, cures in 5, 20 & 30 seconds, out performs the competition, and is versatile in wear for longer nail extensions, shorter nails or even toes.

Gelish should only be applied by a licensed and trained nail technician. Improper tools or techniques may result in an undesirable result.

what

are some of the main differences between UV and LED lamps? The manicurist is able to finish her clients in record time, which allows for additional pampering. Instead of a 2- to 4-minute curing process with a UV lamp, the LED lamp cuts down the time drastically to only 30 seconds per cure. This means there’s extra time to break out the scrubs, masks, and paraffin to upsell clients and make extra revenue for her salon.

can a client take Gelish off at home? It is highly recommended that Gelish be removed by a licensed nail technician so that the client does not damage her natural nail bed in the process. www.gelish.com

naCH212_FAQ.indd 41

GELISH® HARD-GEL SYSTEM STARTER KIT

Scan • Watch • Learn

www.gelish.com They’re Gonna Gotta Get Gelished! Ask your local distributor for the :05 second Gel today Follow us on: Made in the USA

6/7/12 4:26 PM

the nails hotlin e

what

is the average shelf life for acrylic powder and monomer?

technique

how

do I prevent polish from bubbling? I clean the nail plate with acetone very well before I polish. Then I use base coat, two coats of polish, and top coat. I usually have them hold their fingers in front of a fan between coats, and I spray a rapid dryer on after I finish.

Depending on whether you are using a high-quality product, I would say they are able to last up to a year or even 18 months. It also depends on where the product is being stored. No storage place should ever be too cold or too hot; the temperatures can compromise and damage the product. — Sonya Berry is an educator for Young Nails.

what

is the difference between acrylic brushes and gel brushes?

Gel brushes are usually made from a nylon bristle called Taklon. Taklon is a good and relatively cheap product that makes effective, stiff brushes. Acrylic brushes are usually made from animal hairs such as sable, which is a small forest-dwelling mammal, or something similar like kolinsky, a mammal in the weasel family. Taklon cannot be used for acrylic brushes because Taklon cannot withstand exposure to acetone and becomes damaged with acetone use. Natural hair fibers can also be used with gels, but it is unnecessary and in the event that gel is accidentally cured in the brush, the more expensive acrylic brush will have to be discarded. — Jim McConnell is the president of Light Elegance.

42 |

It sounds like you’re following through well on your application, but with polish there are a couple things you have to look out for so you don’t get bubbling. Pay special attention to how you apply each coat. If one of your layers is uneven, it will dry unevenly. This can cause you to think a coat is completely dry when it is not, and then you apply the next coat too soon. As the underneath wet part continues to dry and evaporate, the gases will bubble up into the coat on top of them and cause bubbles. Even if a coat is put on evenly, it is often too thick, which takes longer to dry. And if a layer is still wet when the next coat is put on, it will bubble. This happens a lot when using rapid dryers. The final top coat is put on and then rapid dried, but the layers underneath are still wet, so the evaporation causes the bubbles. Bubbles can also happen if a polish bottle is shaken too much before application — rolling the bottle between your hands is a better method. Also, you don’t want to spend a lot of time applying each coat. Fussing with them too much can make them thick or uneven. You want to make each coat a smooth and quick application. — Lois Kuntz is the owner of Trendsetters Salon in Lemoore, Calif.

2012 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK

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f re q u e n t

Seche Challenge: Achieve the Perfect Nail

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how do I achieve the perfect natural nail? All nails are not created equal. Different problems require different solutions. Each Perfect Nail formulation provides effective nail therapy for specific nail conditions. Whether your client has soft, peeling nails; hard, dry nails; or healthy nails that she wants to protect, there is a Perfect Nail formulation to meet her needs. Seche Perfect Nail products – Retain, Rebuild, and Recondition – help grow and keep healthy natural nails.

Strong Equals Long. Long nails must be strong nails. And to be strong, a nail must be healthy. Nails consist of multiple layers; unprotected, these layers can peel away leaving the nails soft and weak. With each application, Retain’s protein formula seals these layers together to reinforce and strengthen your nails. Retain is continuing therapy. Once you have long, beautiful nails, Retain will condition, protect, and improve them.

Flex Your Options. Weather, lifestyle, and daily living all influence the condition of your nails. Rebuild helps weak, thin, soft, or peeling nails. With each application, Rebuild reinforces and thickens nails providing durability while promotion strength and flexibility.

The Perfect Nail. Applied daily, Recondition helps regain the healthy balance necessary to resist stress and enhance durability. Recondition provides extra conditioning for nails that are hard, dry, and brittle. This special formulation replenishes the natural moisture content of the nail. This formulation is ideal for pedicures.

800.621.9585 www.seche.com

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style

the nails hotlin e ask the e dito rs

what

How can I do the nails for a cover of NAILS Magazine? If you’re interested in doing the nails for a cover, you should e-mail Hannah.Lee@bobit.com. Be sure to include your name, city, state, and some information about yourself, including how long you’ve been doing nails and what your specialties are. Also, be sure to include photos of your best work. Keep in mind that we shoot all of our covers in the Los Angeles area. And unfortunately, we don’t pay for nail techs to come out, so if you’re going to be in the Los Angeles area on a specific date, then include that in your e-mail. Likewise, if you can be available any time, let us know that. The only exception is our annual NAILS Cover Tech Contest, a photo competition in which we accept entries from all over the world, and the winning photo becomes the magazine’s January cover. That entry form is published annually in both our August and September issues. If we don’t contact you at first, don’t give up. As you learn new skills or have interesting ideas for cover looks, e-mail Hannah. You never know when you might have exactly what we’re looking for. JULY 2011

WWW.NAILSM AG.COM

.COM WWW.NAILSMAG NOVEMBER 2011

FEBRUARY 2011

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will

the chlorine in swimming pool water affect nail polish colors? 44 |

What’s in Acrylic SysHot tems

Most of our industry is focused on comfort, but when anyone goes to any job interview they should dress for success. They should also dress to impress; by this I mean dress as though you have the confidence to represent the salon and its owner/manager so they can see your ability to be professional every day in the salon as well as represent your own style. Today’s fashions for the salon do not fall under the business suit category but in fashion itself. We represent fashion and beauty, so it would make sense to dress fashionably and make sure your hair, nails, and makeup are beautiful. You should wear a comfortable dress shirt, pants/skirt, and dress shoes. Show style and your personal beauty when you dress and you will be sure to impress during your interview. In too many salons today I see lazy, sloppy attire and wonder when they achieved the level of laziness that they portray to their clients. Top-rated salons have a dress code, whether it be a uniform or nice dress clothes. They didn’t get to be top-rated or successful by letting their staff dress in jeans, shorts, and tank tops. You have to show your clients that you care about the way you look in order for them to be confident that you can create a look for them. So ditch the T-shirts and sweats at the salon, and dress to impress your clients. When they walk in and see you dressed like you have an important meeting they will be talking about you to others all day. — Amy Davis is the founder/CEO of NEMCEA (Nails, Esthetics, Massage & Cosmetology Employment Agency, www.facebook.com/nemcea).

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should I wear to a job interview at a salon?

Nail polish repels water, so the ct chlorine can’t get inside to affe d, the color. Once the polish has drie it’s OK to go swimming. That’s not e the case with hair color, becaus chlorine can soak into hair. — Doug Schoon is chief scientific advisor for CND.

2012 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK

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f re q u e n t

Young Nails

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how did Young Nails get its name? We get this question all the time. Young Nails is named after Greg and Habib’s mother, Young Salo. Young and Greg started the company in 1992. Habib joined in 2001. By the way, 2012 marks the 20th anniversary of Young Nails. We’re pretty stoked about that.

where do you get your ideas? We’d like to say that we come up with all the product ideas ourselves, but that would only be half true. The fact is a lot of our ideas are formed simply by listening. We listen to our mentors, our distributors and, most importantly, to nail techs. If anyone reading this has a great idea, we want to hear it. Join us on Facebook or YouTube. Let’s talk.

how do I get killer smile lines like Greg’s? You have to use the reverse technique. It’s genius. Glitter or colored powder can be applied without worrying about whether it will get on the nail bed. The trick is to learn it well, then take your time practicing. Remember, technique first; speed second. In the long run, it will save you a lot of time.

is acrylic better than gel? Or is it the other way around? It’s all about options. And most often, it’s a lifestyle issue. If your client comes in and has bitten nails, damaged nails, ski slope nails, wide nails, or she lifts boxes all day for work, she’s probably going to be happier with acrylic. If a client comes in with healthy nail beds, or she has her hands in water or chemicals all day, gel would be the right choice. That’s why a well-rounded nail tech should be rockin’ both.

www.youngnails.com

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the nails hotlin e

style

what

are low the color re a ow H ? ts in a p VOC ality of those u q e th d n a s ce oi ch particular paints? Is there a paint that is brand of low VOC mmercial co r fo ed d en m m reco spaces like salons? compaThe major paint y different nies have so man onmentally ty t pes of envir some are friendly paint — VOC (volcategorized as low pound) and atile organic com VOC. Low some have no ty common, VOC paint is pret and the colwidely available, dless. I like or choices are en s, and its Sherwin-William x. 200 Interior Late int is the ProGreen pa C VO s, w se lo ba st be different available in many is t in pa C VO w is This lo ows, th is able. If budget all ail av is r lo co t in s, so any pa onmental qualitie for durability, envir ed pi cu oc my favorite paint in applied This paint can be and color impact. less of a hassle io make operat ns n ca ch hi w o, to areas ner. itability to the ow t is a zero and increases prof tally friendly pain en nm ro vi en t os The m is paint type is the name of th y on m ar H t. in available so VOC pa Not all bases are s. m ia ill -W in w n in this line. for Sher rs are not an optio lo co t an br vi d mon along vivid an int is pretty com pa C O V ow /l or Low od that is not nies. Even paint pa m co t in pa or w VOC/low the maj could still be a lo C” O V w “lo as d classifie d trend odor option. ts is a material an — `Katie Clemen Chute d and design firm specialist at bran .com). .chutegerdeman Gerdeman (www

46 |

how

can I get started doing nails for celebrities, movies, commercials, etc.? The good news is that manicurists take the same steps as a makeup artist or hairstylist to gain entrance into the business of print, video, film, and television. There are no secrets. Everything starts with building a portfolio through a process called testing. Quite simply, the manicurist connects with photographers, makeup artists, hairstylists and fashion stylists who have the same goal — to build a portfolio with pictures that can be used to get work in the entertainment and fashion industries. Working with professional photographers is key. I always suggest visiting photography schools like Art Center in Pasadena, Calif., SVA (School of Visual Arts) in New York, and the Portfolio Center in Atlanta, to name a few. These schools and more are easily unearthed with a Google search that contains the words, “photography schools + city, state.” Once identified, the manicurist should call and ask if there is a system in place to connect manicurists with photographers who are building their books for fashion and beauty. If the answer is yes, sign up. If the answer is no, I suggest getting over to the campus and introducing yourself to the professors and the photographers in class. There are also some great websites, like photocrew. com and modelmayhem.com, where artists congregate, connect, and work on their portfolios. As soon as you have about 10 to 12 great images in your print or online portfolio you’re ready to start sharing your work with creative decision-makers who can hire you for work. — Crystal Wright is the author of Crystal Wright’s Hair Makeup & Fashion Styling Career Guide (available on amazon.com), which provides more detailed guidance on becoming a celebrity manicurist.

2012 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK

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f re q u e n t

ibd Just Gel Polish

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how do I create the “matte-ify look” with gel polish? Wonder no more. Achieving the matte-ified effect is simple and easy to do! Giving your client a little edge to their Just Gel Polish manicure will have them excited for their next salon visit. This hot new look will have your clients react with a “wow!” 1

Step 1: After prepping the natural nail, apply ibd PowerBond and then proceed to the Just Gel Polish Base Coat application, cure for 30 seconds under LED light or one minute under UV light. Be sure to encase the tip edge with every coat of Just Gel Polish. Follow with two coats of Just Gel Polish Black Lava. Cure each coat separately for 30 seconds under LED light or two minutes under UV light. Step 2: In order to create the matte-ify effect, you must buff the shine off the top coat, therefore two coats of top coat must be applied in order to ensure long wear for your client. Apply Just Gel Polish Top Coat and cure for 30 seconds under LED light or two minutes under UV light. Repeat the process for the second coat. Cleanse each nail with alcohol or Just Gel Polish Cleanser and then use a 280-grit buffing block to gently buff the shine from the nail.

Step 3: To complete the matte-ify effect, use a striper brush to create the desired pattern with Just Gel Polish Top Coat. Dip the striper brush in Just Gel Polish Top Coat to create each geometric block. Cure for 30 seconds under LED light or two minutes under UV light. Cleanse with alcohol or Just Gel Polish Cleanser. For more details on Just Gel Polish application instructions, visit www.ibdbeauty.com.

www.ibdbeauty.com

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style

the nails hotlin e ask the ed itor s How do I get my [salon, nail art, product, etc.] featured in NAILS Magazine? You can always e-mail editor@nailsmag.com with what you’d like featured, but here are the direct people to contact for specific things: Contact Judy.Lessin@bobit.com for: Salon (for a profile)/ nail tech networking event or class/product giveaway/ health-focused story or question/business-focused story or question/annual Cover Tech Contest. Contact Sree.Roy@bobit.com for: Nail art (step-by-steps or photos)/specialty manicure or pedicure/salon stylefocused story or question. Contact Tim.Crowley@bobit.com for: New product launch/product step-by-step/technique-focused story or question. Contact Hannah.Lee@bobit.com for: Letter to the editor (response to an article or your opinion on an industry issue)/get my salon featured as an On the Road. We prefer that you start by sending your inquiry to one editor only and not everyone, as that makes it more likely you’ll get a response. When in doubt, e-mail Hannah.Lee@bobit.com, and she’ll make sure your request gets in front of the right person.

can

how

do I offer nail art to my clients if I’m not good at freehand d rawing? Nail ar

t is in the eye of th e beholder! I can’ very well freehan t draw things d but like to say I can move blob create nail fashio s and n. You would be amazed at what be created from can dots and lines th at are either mer together or conn ged ected in random ways, even my he and stars are do arts ts and lines! Wat ch videos on NAILSt (www.nailsmag.co v m/nailstv) or look at some of the ar step-by-steps on t the NAILS websit e. Sometimes se a design broken do eing wn into steps can help it feel more proachable as a co apncept. Have fun! — Holly Schipper s, Bussey, Iowa, is CND education am a bassador and a bl ogger at blogs.nailsmag .com/fingernailfi xer.

you explain the difference in all of the new polish textures that are popping up? Matte: Matte finishes are flat with minimal to zero light reflection. Plastic: Plastic is not quite glossy and not quite matte, sort of like the yellow rain slicker you had as a kid. The semi-glossy look has also been likened to rubber, latex, and satin. Suede: Suede colors have a textured look, may appear nubby to the eye, and generally have minimal shine. To picture this finish, think of a soft jacket, a fabulous high heel, or felt paper. Wax: A waxy finish gives more of a muted color finish, like a hand dipped in paraffin. You can still see the skin color but it’s more translucent. Chome/Foil: This is a sunglasses-required, super-shiny finish that can be likened to the finish on a Harley Davidson exhaust pipe or a gold bangle. Beyoncé helped popularize the chrome finish in her “Single Ladies” video. — Alicia Jai is a Washington D.C.-based freelance manicurist who services a salon-based and celebrity clientele.

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f re q u e n t

Jessica’s Formula for Success: Passion

ya ske d qu estio ns Jessica Vartoughian is the founder of JESSICA Cosmetics Interna-

tional and a pioneer in nail care systems that nurture healthy, beautiful nails from the inside out. Jessica has been called the “First Lady of Nails” by The New York Times and “Manicurist to the Stars” by Vogue.

what do you say to new grads? Congratulations! You are joining a creative and rewarding industry. Ours is the only profession that allows you to hold someone’s hand for an extended period of time to share their dreams and their lives. It’s a personal connection and an honor.

what career strategies worked for you? First, know who you are and decide what kind of professional you want to be. Where would you like to work? What type of clientele are you interested in attracting? When I was looking for my first job, I knew I wanted to join a prestigious salon with a VIP clientele. I wanted to learn everything possible so I could someday create my own line of luxury natural nail products. Today, the Jessica Nail Cultivation System® is featured in the finest spas, salons and resorts the world over. That was my dream. What’s yours?

is being different an asset? In our profession, talent and individuality are valued. (Thank goodness!) Focus on what makes you special, and offer something different than the next salon, the next manicurist. For me, it was the desire to create unique products. For you, it may be running a business. Or pushing the boundaries of nail art.

what’s the key to career success? Most of all, love what you do and it will show in every aspect of your life. Passion is the ultimate secret to success. This can be a lifelong career, if you want it. Build relationships with your clients. Tell them about the products and services you offer — and why you offer them. Continue your education, stay relevant and informed. I opened the world’s first nails-only salon in 1969. Today, we still see many of my original clients, their daughters and now their grandchildren. I am gratified to have such a large and loyal extended family. May you enjoy lasting relationships with your clients, and your manicures be part of their Big Moments for years to come. www.jessicacosmetics.com

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the nails hotlin e

what

ail art? n e k o r t S e is On

I created the One-Stroke method of painting over 15 years ago while teaching myself how to paint. I wanted something fun, quick, and easy. The painting technique allows painters to blend, shade, and highlight all in one stroke of a brush. What’s so great about the One-Stroke technique is it can be adapted to fit many different mediums. I’ve used the technique to paint on faces, food, and so much more. It’s nice to see so many others use the technique I created and apply it to what they love to paint on. Many times my nail tech would run over to ask me how to paint this or that, and after I showed her how to paint that calla lily or rose it was fun to watch her paint it on a client’s nails. — Donna Dewberry is the inventor of the One-Stroke painting technique. Learn more at www.dewberrycrafts.com.

what

is the best way to make stripes/lines on nails?

The best way to make stripes on nails is with a liner brush. You can find a striper/liner brush at some beauty supply stores or even your local craft store. The brush will have long thin bristles, and when you get it wet with paint it comes to a very precise point and is no wider than a toothpick and about an inch or two long depending on what brand or style you buy. As for actually making lines, it’s pretty simple but takes a steady hand. First, take the lid off the paint and swirl the brush around the inside of the bottle, coating all the bristles evenly and making them all stick together and come to a fine point. I’m right handed, so I always start from the left side of the nail to the right. Depending on the pressure you use is how thick the lines will be. If you need more paint, just dip the tip of the brush in the lid of the paint bottle. — Jade Sewell is a nail artist at Just Nails in Great Falls, Mont.

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how

do I choose a good polish color according to season and skin tone?

I like to hold the polish bo ttle up to the inside of a clie nt’s wrist. Usually you can see if the color is going to comple ment the tone of her skin just by doing this. Another handy tip is to ask your client the colors she does not like as opposed to asking her what she does like. That is a go od indication of what will not look good on her. People don’t like certain colors for a rea son and, more often than not, it’s because they put that color on one time and it didn’t look so great. By asking your clie nt the colors she does no t like, it narrows it down way better than asking her what she likes. People are pretty point blank abo ut what they don’t like. Th ey can go on forever about the colors the y do like. As far as seasons go, wh en it comes to polish co lors your options are limitless. Ev en if a person isn’t spe cifically a “fall” person, odds are go od you can find a shade of orange that might have a nice pink undertone to it to complement her “spring” skin tone. Keep a nice wide variet y of polish colors and brands on ha nd, and you are sure to find a color your client will fall in lov e with! — Carla Foster is a vetera n nail tech and owns Carla Foster Na ils in Shaughnessy, Alberta, Ca nada.

2012 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK

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f re q u e n t

Artistic Nail Design Colour Gloss

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COLOUR GLOSS™ Soak-Off Gel Colour

AMAZING COLOUR Lasts up to 3X LONGER than Polish LED & UV Friendly

help! I have clients who have trouble with lifting and chipping. What do you recommend to prevent this from happening? First off, make sure that you’re prepping the nail properly with Artistic Colour Gloss pH Nail Prep. Use this to properly prepare the natural nail for optimal adhesion. Artistic Colour Gloss pH Nail Prep assures the best performance of any natural or artificial nail surface. Second, make sure you’re sealing the edge when applying the Artistic Colour Soak Off Bonding Gel. This step prevents those annoying chips that your clients can’t stand!

some

of my clients don’t have the time to do a full gel-polish removal and application service each time they come in. Can I use Artistic Nail Design products to do a proper fill? Of course! One of the most important steps is to remove shine from the nail and blend existing Artistic Nail Design Colour Gloss into the natural nail using the 180-grit side of the Artistic 100/180 Effect Buffer. This ensures a properly blended application of gelpolish onto the already existing layer. Because your client will have some regrowth near the base, make sure to file down and shape the free edge of the nail using your Artistic 180/180 Aspect File. Follow up these steps with your usual gel-polish application process.

84 Artistic Colours

PROFESSIONAL FORMULAS PROFESSIONAL RESULTS

www.ArtisticNailDesign.com Beverly Hills, CA 90210 USA Tel: 714. 635. 5110

www.artisticnaildesign.com

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how

important is it that I work for somebody else first before I open my own place?

what

can you tell e me about Yelp? Are ther k st as any tricks? Should I ju clients to post reviews?

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Important! Starting your own business from scratch with little following is challenging. Find a salon or spa that you feel matches your values and personality and get in there and learn the ropes. Study under a mentor and grow in confidence while you grow your client base. Getting the basics down first will be crucial prior to opening your own business because once this happens you will have many more challenges (layout and design, how to get a loan, implementing operational systems, creating cash flow projections, recruiting and training, and writing a marketing plan, to name a few). Take these first few years in your career path to get a foundation. Remember, find someone you want to learn from and study hard and practice, practice, practice. Finally, let your mentor know that your goal is to one day own your own salon. — Steve Gomez is professional development manager for Milady (www.milady.cengage.com).

ask th

ors dit ee

s. l for building busines Yelp.com is a great too le op pe line platform where Basically, Yelp is an on or d oo (g s s can post review who visit your busines tive or spa. In turn, prospec bad) about your salon to ion cis ation in their de clients use this inform s. patronize your busines their to go to Yelp to post It’s OK to ask clients ing try t no sure that you are experiences, but make t ou ab s ng saying great thi to coerce them into be to s iew nt your Yelp rev your business. You wa ask It’s not uncommon to . as organic as possible or d/ an ts s and offer discoun clients to post review to m the k t you should not as incentives to do it. Bu y od yb an , m to write. Also post what you want the u Yo s. iew ess and post rev can add your busin d ste po s at’ control over wh have very little to no . ed ov ve bad reviews rem and cannot pay to ha nail tech and — Tiffani Douglas is a edia Marketing: the author of Social M fessionals A Guide For Beauty Pro or.com). arl (www.tiffanis-beautyp

I’m putting together a business plan for a bank loan. Do you have any industry statistics?

Nail salons are a $6.65 billion industry, according to NAILS most recent proprietary research. You can access our most current statistics online at www.nailsmag.com/market-research, plus download statistics from previous years. Included statistics are average monthly booth rental, average service prices, number of clients typically seen per week, and much more.

2012 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK

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en Vogue Gel

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Q: can a nail biter wear a sculpted gel nail?

Absolutely! The success is all in the technique. There are many options available for the special needs of nail biters. en Vogue offers Extender Modeling Resins, designed for severe nail biters providing a camouflage to the natural nail, resulting in a beautiful elongated nail enhancement. If the client would like her nails extended long, an option would be to use a form and build out a thin coat of modeling resin to the desired length. This gives you a smooth canvas to work on. Next, apply your choice of Extender Resin over the nail plate from the cuticle area, extending past their short natural nail. You would then apply either a French, glitter, or color gel for the free edge. Lastly, add a second, thicker coat of clear Modeling Resin across the stress area to the end of the free edge for strength. File, shape, and buff. Finish off with a coat of Sealer. Another option for a client desiring a shorter natural nail is to pull the Extender Modeling Resin from the cuticle area right to the end of the fingertip, overlapping onto the skin. Once the product has cured you can pull the product away from the skin at the free edge. File, shape, buff, and apply one coat of Sealer. Now you have a beautiful, natural-looking set of nails that your nail biter will be truly grateful for! Nail biters will always require more initial maintenance until the natural nail has grown out and recovered from the damage caused by nail biting.

Q: what does “organic” really mean?

The definition is “any substance that contains the element carbon.” Nearly half the substances in the world contain carbon, and almost all nail products contain carbon. Organic does not define a product as being safe nor does it define it as being unsafe. Organic is simply a name used by scientists to distinguish one group of substances in this world (carbon-containing) from the non-carbon based, thus inorganic. All Petro-chemicals for example are carbon-based, thus organic. In ordinary commerce, the word organic is commonly understood to mean a product that is produced totally from natural, biological sources, such as wholegrain bread without artificial preservatives, or beef raised without antibiotics. The word organic has a different meaning in the chemistry world. In chemistry, organic refers to all complex compounds of carbon. Why? In the early 1800s, all known carbon compounds were derived from organic (i.e., biological) sources; therefore, carbon chemistry was named “organic chemistry”.

www.envoguenails.com

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the nails hotlin e

bus i n e s s

how

can I say “no” to my my hours clients so I can keep r days? down and work shorte

can

g care of them. ents and love takin We all love our cli ver, setting boundwhat we do! Howe That is why we do dation is to clearly My first recommen aries is necessary. it to paper. Share schedule. Commit identify your new propriately block e front desk and ap the schedule with th heduled outside of pointments are sc the time, so no ap appointments hours. Build in a few your new working u just can’t say no en for the clients yo that will be held op help you by not t of the front desk to to. Enlist the suppor ask for a special t to get to you to allowing every clien can give when a t of responses you favor. Write a scrip urs. Practice the u to extend your ho client is asking yo ble with saying ers to get comforta scripts with cowork e to my family” “I committed this tim no. Statements like, presentation and le playing, your work well. By ro ll understand. and your clients wi confidence will grow re of others if you possible to take ca Remember, it is im ur personal time urself. Schedule yo don’t take care of yo ents. It all begins to accommodate cli and do not adjust it em. s and sticking to th by setting boundarie c. cher Enterprises In is president of Duro ). m .co es ris rp — Bryan Durocher te (www.durocheren

how

do I set up my rates for party packages?

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you offer any tips for keeping my books as full in the fall and winter months as they are in the spring and summer months? One of the biggest reasons my salon is as consistently busy in the winter months as we are in the summer is that we promote services that need to be maintained on a four-week basis. For example, we have had advanced training in pedicures with a focus on serious results. We have cultivated relationships with physical therapists, podiatrists, and orthotics stores that recommend us and help feed our books. Clients receiving those sorts of services cannot afford to “take off” a few months. To build these referral relationships, I spoke to clients about their podiatrists and physical therapists. Then I stopped by with my bio and information and talked to them about looking to build a referral relationship. I asked them for the best orthotics store and when I went there they were thrilled. They had been looking for someone like me to refer to! We brought the owner in to the salon to educate us and our clients and it went from there. — Heather Goodwin is a salon owner and success coach with Inspiring Champions (www.inspiringchampions.com).

I don’t think a flat rate is workable since your fee will be determined by the number of customers and technicians at the party. To establish a price, you need to consider your rate per hour, or rate per minute. If you were to charge $45 for a 60-minute pedicure, your rate is $45 per hour, or 75 cents per minute. If the guest will be spending three hours on the party, you need to charge at least $135 ($45 x 3) per tech. You also have to consider what additional overhead is involved. For instance, are you serving refreshments? A minimum guarantee is a must. I would also suggest a 50% deposit with at least a 72-hour cancellation policy in place. You should also consider a call to action aimed at the party guests. Offer to re-book them today only at a discount, or offer a certain percentage off on retail purchased that day. — Heather Goodwin is a salon owner and success coach with Inspiring Champions.

2012 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK

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f re q u e n t

EzFlow

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how do I create a color-blocked nail design? Make a bold and bright statement with color-blocking – a technique where blocks of solid color are placed next to each other in different shapes and sizes for a visually appealing effect. Using EzFlow’s Color Blast Neon Acrylic Collection, you can offer your clients this latest craze in acrylic nail designs by following these steps: Step 1 (Nail Prep): Prepare the nail for extensions with either nail forms or nail tips. Note: All colored balls will be drier in consistency, using less monomer than normal. Step 2: Start with picking up a dry ball of Pink Spark (or desired color), and pull to desired geometric shape. Using the point of the brush, refine edges of shape. Press to even out shape. Step 3: Using your compilation of colors, repeat Step 2 to create varying geometric shapes in different areas of the nail. The following order of colors was used to create the nail below: Pink Spark, Purple Flare, Coral Blaze, Dayglow, Fuschia Flash, and Lime Light. Step 4: Cap the nail with EzFlow A Polymer Clear Powder. Step 5: File and buff using EzFlow files, graduating from White Tiger (100/100) to Sand Shark II (240/280), and seal with UV-30 and Never Yellow Sealer.

With EzFlow You Can...

www.ezﬂow.com www.ezflow.com

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how

siness loan do I get a small bu lon? il sa to open my own na

e much more They have becom s. an lo e id ov pr ch they a long process e process by whi qualify. It can be th ly d al iti ge in an t ch no ve do u s ha t be surprised if yo d economy, bank ess loans. Do no In this market an sin bu lf: to se te cash flow ur rd yo ga lp re gent with n use to he learn how to crea ca , u ch yo ar s se tip re w ur fe a yo selective and strin e are projections an. Do to be patient. Her alistic cash flow sive business pl re en ith eh w pr an m pl co ss d and you will need iled an what you are lid busine to create a deta k and you know oving into. A so or m ew e m ar u ho yo ur t yo ke > Take the time ne mar that you have do understand the a bank or lender projections, and ow sh u y to qualify. yo n he u. rence. W your score or abilit king with yo m or fro w ay to aw en ke op will make a diffe e ta mor at may e of banks and into they will be approach outsid ng outstanding th d hi ul yt co an u up yo n at getting yourself ea th Cl circle port. gally set up a edit score and re influence in your ith how you can le w of u le yo op t or pe e pp ar su e n > Review your cr s. Thes so he ca as well as show “angel” investor ture relationship contract attorney fu a t e ul th ns in co ity to gr te > Make a list of re su be complete eate in u create this list be world. This will cr an will still need to pl te s iva es pr sin ur bu yo ur lenders. Once yo in yo ne ch u use this approa ement with someo . are prepared. If yo personal loan agre d to pay them back an s nd es ent manager te in sin u bu yo n w ea ho m u on yo sional developm an at es pl th of e pr th a ith is w ez g on the investor om com). al G stor — Steve .milady.cengage. the potential inve for Milady (www and furnished to

how

do I accommodate more clients when I already have a full book?

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The tendency is to think that more clients means more money, but the truth is those quality clients who spend the most with you are really the ones who build your business. If you want to work smart, I recommend that you actually reduce your client base (think quality vs. quantity) to include only your ideal clients and put your effort toward giving them the benefit of your full attention and upselling them to grow your average service and retail ticket. Another way to accommodate more clients in the same amount of time is to work with an assistant, as hairdressers do. The assistant could prep enhancement clients or work with you to give a client a manicure and pedicure at the same time. The assistant, most likely a recent grad, would benefit from the training you give them as well. — Louis Mattassi is a global cosmetology educator with Empowering You Consulting (empoweringyouconsulting.com).

2012 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK

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Light Elegance

ya ske d qu estio ns

Q: how is Light Elegance unique?

Light Elegance — the products and the company — is unique because it was born in a salon. Lezlie McConnell owned an upscale salon and her husband Jim was a chemist. Turns out it was a brilliant combination. Jim and Lezlie were always interested in how to make things better for their techs — how could the products they used day in and day out be better? Safer? Economical? More appealing? The products that Jim and Lezlie created and tested (and tested) in the salon became popular with the clients and business grew. And grew. They took a risk, made a plan, and began creating, manufacturing, and selling Light Elegance beyond their own doors. Lezlie sold the salon and Jim left his corporate position as a chemist. And a business was born.

We’ve got your color covered. At Light Elegance we create and manufacture over 120 colors of our own UV gel polish. No odor, no yellowing, easy to use and virtually indestructible.

Q: do you offer free samples?

Absolutely. We’re happy to send whatever you want to try. Just call (800) 275-5596. Light Elegance nail products are odorless, easy-to-apply, and have strength and flexibility for full sets and fills. Light Elegance also offers a wide range of non-yellowing products that can be applied to gels, acrylics, wraps, and natural nails.

Q: come on, are you really the manufacturer?

We’re one of the very few companies to manufacture our own products. We create, formulate, blend, test and package every product here at our headquarters in Redmond, Ore. We have control over the colors, the ingredients, the quality, and we wouldn’t have it any other way.

Q: how many prompts before I get product support on the phone?

Only nail experts answer the phones. No prompts, auto-attendants, or even voicemail. So far, there isn’t a quandary we can’t answer. We will answer any procedure questions you have, make suggestions, and even explain how each and every product works and the chemistry involved. You’re busy, you need your questions answered immediately and efficiently and we’re here to do just that. Hang on to our number: 800-275-5596

light elegance we’ve got great chemistry

www.lightelegance.com (541) 526 - 1417 www.lightelegance.com

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bus i n e s s

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i’m

ask the editors How can I become a blogger for NailsMag.com? NailsMag.com has nine active blogs, several of which are reader-written. Here’s who you contact to throw your hat into the ring to be one of our reader-bloggers: Blueprint of a First Year (blogs.nailsmag.com/blueprint) accepts bloggers who are new salon owners and are willing to be honest about the ups and downs of their first year of ownership. E-mail sree.roy@bobit.com. 365 Days of Nail Art (blogs.nailsmag.com/365nailart) is always looking to feature new nail artists, in this blog that shows a new nail art design every day. E-mail editor@nailsmag.com with your nail art photo (un-watermarked) attached to the e-mail, and make sure to include your name, salon name, city, and state. The Coaching Chronicles (blogs.nailsmag.com/coach) accepts bloggers who are professional salon success coaches and/ or salon owners and nail techs who are currently working under the guidance of a professional coach. E-mail judy.lessin@bobit.com. Competition Insider (blogs.nailsmag.com/competitioninsider) accepts bloggers who are nail competitors (whether novice or veteran) and are willing to write about their experiences leading up to, during, and following competitions. E-mail tim.crowley@bobit.com. NAILS 101: A Student Blog (blogs.nailsmag.com/student) accepts bloggers who are enrolled in beauty school and are willing to blog weekly about their experiences while in school. E-mail hannah.lee@bobit.com.

tired of competing against all the discount salons in my area and am thinking of throwing in the towel and quitting. Do you have any advice? Think about why you chose to do this in the first place. What was/is your vision and mission? What do you value? Examine what is at the heart of what you do and why you do it as a business. When you get back to the source of why you operate you get reconnected to what is important. Remember you cannot control outside circumstances like discount salons, disgruntled employees, and the economy. But you can control how you relate to it. Take your power back and redirect your energies into how you differentiate yourself from “discount salons” and then begin to market and position yourself based upon that. Let your public know why you are there. You can also get your top customers together and have a council meeting. Bring your top 10 clients together and have them help you from a client’s perspective to create ways to keep growing your business. Offer them free services for their next two visits for a few hours of their time. Get creative and keep attacking! — Steve Gomez is a professional development manager for Milady (www.milady.cengage.com).

product costs have gone up but I can’t raise my prices in this economy. What do you suggest?

Instead of raising your prices, try reinventing your service menu. Change your services and offer new things to make it fun for the customer. Up the prices slightly only on unestablished services and make sure you have some low-cost options available. Reinvent a low-cost service — like an $8 polish change — by adding shaping of the nails, a lovely lavender lotion hand massage, a quick push back of the cuticles, followed by polish and speed-dry top coat. Call it a “Lunch Time Manicure” and charge $12. Market it to surrounding businesses. After all, your cost is time and a couple of drops of lotion is a small price to pay for a new customer. — Shari Finger is the owner of Finger’s Nail Studio in W. Dundee, Ill.

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GiGi Challenge

ya ske d qu estio ns

how do I create perfectly shaped brows? Reports are in from top runways and brows have made a big comeback! What better way to groom perfectly shaped and well-defined brows than with your favorite GiGi wax formula. Follow the three basic steps, mastered by seasoned professionals, to contour and shape your clients’ brows to perfection. A. BROW BEGINNING

Rest a new Petite Applicator at the widest part of your client’s nose. Let the applicator pass directly over the inside corner of her eye. If you can’t see the brow at this point because the applicator covers it, her eyebrow begins in the correct place. If the end of the brow extends past the spatula, mark off that point with an eyebrow pencil for hair removal. (In some cases, hair may not grow to the desired point and eyebrows then appear to be spaced too far apart. Advise your client to pencil in this area lightly.)

B. BROW ARCH

Ask your client to look straight ahead. Using the center of her pupil, tilt the applicator from the widest part of her nose over her eye. The correct placement of the brow arch is the point where the applicator meets the eyebrow. If the arch is not correctly placed, use an eyebrow pencil to mark the corrections. Gently sketch in the desired lines, beginning at the inner corner of the eye and continuing to the point where the arch should be.

C. BROW END Again, resting your applicator at the widest part of your client’s nose, slant it just past the outside end of the eye to the point at which the applicator meets the brow line. If the brow extends beyond the applicator, mark for hair removal.

After the correct shape is determined, use GiGi All Purpose Honee to remove all unwanted hair.

800.621.9585 www.GiGispa.com

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the nails hotlin e

bus i n e s s

i’m

having problems with cancellations, or sometimes they’re just no-shows. What can I do? Your first step is to implement a cancellation policy. The policy should be firm yet positive, reading something like, “If you must cancel please notify us at least 24 hours prior to the appointment or you will be charged for the missed visit. Thank you for respecting what we love doing most — serving you!” Post it in a prominent place and enforce it. If you booked a room in a hotel and then didn’t show up, wouldn’t the hotel charge you? Of course, if the client has an actual emergency, you may waive the policy at your discretion. The next step is to make courtesy calls a top priority. Make it a habit to be in communication with your clients, so there will be less chance for breakdowns. Instead of the customary day before, make a courtesy call 48 to 72 hours in advance, so your client will be sure to receive it in time. Always use a prepared script to ensure perfect communication, such as “This is a courtesy call to confirm your reservation on (date). Please note that this time has been specifically reserved for you. If for any reason you are unable to keep this appointment, we do require a 24-hour cancellation notice to avoid being charged for the missed service. Thank you for choosing the XYZ Salon. We look forward to serving you on (date).” If you leave a message, you must request that the client call you back to confirm the appointment. — Lauren Gartland is president of Inspiring Champions (www.inspiringchampions.com).

how

do I g finished rathe et clients to book their next a p r than calling just before they pointment after their service is want to come in Pre-booking is an integral o r part of the bu e v pre-booking in e n ju st walking in? siness of beau to the entire vi ty. Build the va sit, not just m During the co lue of entioning nsultati

it when the se on, explain th are recommen rvice is over. e follow-up an ding. If a client d m aintenance sc says, “I don’t explain how hedule you have my plan your book do ner” or “I’ll ju es fill up and given to thos st call,” priority for ap e who pre-bo pointments is ok. Share ho appointment, al ways w for clients if the need ev who have a er arises for minute, you w standing them to canc ill always find el or get in at a way to acco always is exte the last mmodate them nded to client . Be clear that s w without sche ho pre-book priority appointments duling the ap pointment, a . If the client call to check fe leaves w days after on them, reit the service, w erate how im next appointm he po n you rtant it is for ent and offe them to sche r two differen recommendi dule their t appointmen ng we fill your t times. “Jan nails in two w 10th of June av e, I am eeks. I have Fr ailable or Satu id ay afternoon rd ay morning th Again, explai on the n that it is alw e 11th. Which ays easier to would you pr if needed than sh efer?” ift scheduled attempting to appointments squeeze in a clients into co ar ound client at the nsistently prelast minute. booking can be for tracking an Sh ift ing time consum d growing yo ing, but is impe ur business. rative — Bryan Dur ocher is presid ent of Duroche r Enterprises Inc. (www.duroche renterprises.c om).

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2012 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK

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f re q u e n t

Bio Sculpture

ya ske d qu estio ns

what makes Bio Sculpture an All-in- One Nail System? Bio Sculpture’s unique Gel formula enable technicians to offer every nail service with only one gel nail system, including natural nail No-Chip color overlays, French applications, gel nail sculptures, tip extensions and nail art. All Bio Sculpture Gels including its color gel add 90% natural nail strength to allow natural nails to grow out healthy and strong.

why have the option to customize nail flexibility? After requests from manicurists using Bio Sculpture Gel, we realized that different nails have different needs, just like hair. We are not just enhancing the clients’ natural nails but enhancing her lifestyle. Bio Sculpture continued to formulate (optional) Clear Gels that fall into three categories – Flexible, Medium-, and Solid Gels – so that nail technicians can pick the gel that’s appropriate for a speciﬁc clients’ nail plate type and lifestyle choices.

how is Bio Sculpture a Healthier Alternative? Bio Sculpture is the first, and to date, the only nail company that had an independent Clinical Research done on their products for tolerability and efficacy which resulted in a five star safety rating, proving no damage to natural nails during application, wear and removal. Nail preparation requires no etching, no base coats, no primers and no bonders. As an added bonus all Bio Sculpture Gels including sculpting, clear and color gels soak off in 10 minutes… with no filing!

is a LED curing lamp still omitting UV rays? With the latest confusion between LED and UV lights and manicurist looking for alternative to UV lights, it is important to realize that LED lights are actually UV lights. They emit the same rays within the UV spectrum. The traditional UV lights are considered compact fluorescent lights (UV CFL) after the bulbs they use, so basically LED light and UV lights (fluorescent) emits the same rays. Bio Sculpture Gel cures for two minutes under a 9watt UVA (fluorescent) curing lamp. We take Health and Safety very seriously and will not be supplying this type of new technology until we have done the necessary research and development to ensure they are safe and compliant with regards to UV emissions. We require the independent authority (ARPANSA) do the necessary testing.

www.BioSculptureGel.com

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the nails hotlin e

bus i n e s s

i’m

how

do I evaluate a booth rental situation?

A great booth rental salon will offer a clean and safe environment to work in, enough parking for all workers and clients, outside maintenance, a waiting area for clients, a breakroom area, microwave, refrigerator, washer/dryer, salon cleaning supplies, great lighting for after-dark clients, salon advertising at least once a year (individual advertising is your responsibility), and storage space for your items. It must also follow all state board rules/regulations. Optional items would be a telephone with extensions throughout the salon and a receptionist desk — or even better a receptionist. Also I would look for a busy salon. You can build a clientele more quickly and it helps with referrals. I would ask the owner the hours you can work, whether the salon is available to you 24/7, and if you have your own key. For your financial safety, make sure there is a contract that you both agree to. Other questions are: > How are gift certificates handled? > How long have you been in business? > What is the average length of time each booth renter has been here? > Am I allowed to talk to others that work here? > If there is a problem in the salon with the renters, who handles the issue? > Do you communicate with the renters on a regular basis, for example, at meetings or with newsletters? I have owned an employee-based salon, been an employee, and am now a booth renter. I love to booth rent. I’ve found the secret for successful booth renting is to find a great salon owner who knows the difference between employees and renters. — Diana Bonn is a nail tech at Identity Salon in Muncie, Ind., and a member of the Indiana State Board of Cosmetology.

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the only manicurist in a full-service salon. How do I promote myself within the salon? I’m a shy person and I have a big problem talking about my business with clients. You don’t really have to chat with them. Have some cards made up that say “10% off your first nail service with me” and a sheet with a menu of services. Go up to them, introduce yourself, then hand it to them. Tell them you would love the opportunity to give them a manicure, pedicure, or nail enhancements. Make sure your name and number are on everything. Another thing you can do for clients who are processing or sitting under the dryer is ask them if they would like a complimentary hand massage. Just make it a short massage — maybe five minutes. When you are done, hand them a discount card and menu of services, and tell them you’d love it if they would keep you in mind if they need nail services. While you are massaging, mention some of your more luxurious services and any specials you may be running. I guarantee they’ll be keeping you in mind. — Sharon Frenz is the owner of The Nail Boutique in Tomah, Wis.

ditors e e th k I’ve developed a as nail product that I want to sell to other nail techs. How do I advertise in NAILS Magazine? Start by contacting the NAILS’ ad sales manager who covers your area. That’s Michelle Mullen (michelle.mullen@bobit.com) if you’re on the West Coast or in Canada, and Mary Baughman (mary.baughman@bobit.com) if you’re on the East Coast or an international area other than Canada. They’ll be able to e-mail you a media kit with more detailed information on types of ads and can answer any specific questions that you have.

2012 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK

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f re q u e n t

AKZÉNTZ Gel

ya ske d qu estio ns

why would a client or nail tech choose a Luxio Gel polish application? Luxio is a great choice for natural nail enhancements. Many clients choose Luxio Gel in a polish bottle not only for the natural look Luxio provides but they also like the extra strength the unique, 100% gel formula provides on the natural nail. The application of Luxio is fast and easy for the nail technician and soaks off quickly in 10 minutes.

are UV classic gels as strong as acrylic?

UNLIMITED POSSIBILITIES

A common misconception in the nail industry is that gels are not as strong as acrylics because gels are more flexible. Many people confuse strength and hardness — they are not the same thing. Flexibility is the key to strength and preventing breaking. For example, a high-rise building is designed to sway and flex under pressure to prevent breaking. This is the same as gel, the flexibility provides strength, which when built properly, makes the gel durable and hard. This is one of the reasons why gels are gaining popularity in the nail industry.

52 luxurious colours No smudging, No chipping, No cracking Long lasting very high gloss shine Protects the natural nail Easily removed in 10 minutes 100% pure gel

how long can a client go between fills with a gel application? The recommended time for a client to return for a fill is between 3-4 weeks (depending on the client’s lifestyle and how fast her nails grow). With new clients, it is recommended to have them return in three weeks for a refill. This will allow you to assess the re-growth. How hard the client is on her nails will determine which gel is the right fit for her.

how do I choose the correct gel for my client? Talk with your client to obtain the style and length of nails she desires. Assess her lifestyle and her commitment level to maintaining her nails. If the client would like a natural nail enhancement or a temporary nail service, a great choice is the Luxio or Options Gel, as they are both easy to apply and soak off.

NAILS PERFECTED Only from Akzentz

www.akzentz.com

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6/7/12 4:32 PM

the nails hotlin e

what

causes the sudden s? appearance of nail groove

in two directions: Nails may be grooved from the cuticle outfrom side to side or oves are from the ward. When the gro l are called longitudina cuticle outward, they st mo are and these grooves of the nail, a cyst, or a little by ed commonly caus xt to the proximal growth in the skin ne is type of cyst, called nail fold. To treat th form of surgery is a myxoma, some typically performed. from side to side, When the grooves are common, they are which is by far more ’s lines. The most referred to as Beau s disorder is a yeast common cause of thi und the cuticle. This infection of the skin aro il matrix; because of infection injures the na the matrix cannot this type of injury, but instead produces produce a smooth nail ring that your client a grooved one. Conside t on any medication, is in good health and no vide a diagnosis and a doctor must first pro common yeast infectreatment. If it is the ated with antifungal tion, then it can be tre cream or pills. also known as — Dr. Richard Scher, rmatologist The Nail Doctor, is a de d ils, an hair. He is specializing in skin, na of dermatology currently a professor rth Carolina at the University of No diagnosis for and head of the section orders. dis il and treatment of na

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health

how

should I deal with a new client who has athlete’s foot? Advise him to seek professional medical treatment for the condition and reschedule the appointment after the condition has been resolved. It is against federal law for nail technicians to perform salon services on a client’s feet if they appear to be visibly unhealthy. Nail professionals are not allowed to diagnosis, treat, or prescribe treatment for any unhealthy medical condition and this is true for all 50 states. No matter what level of training a nail professional may possess, without a medical or podiatry license, nail professionals are not allowed to perform any services on unhealthy feet. All that can legally be done is to inform the client he has a visibly unhealthy condition on his feet and then direct him to see a qualified medical professional for diagnosis and to receive any required treatment. The only exception would be nail professionals working under the direct supervision of a licensed doctor or podiatrist in their medical office, and that licensed medical person is assuming full responsibility for the patient’s care. Clients can’t give nail professionals permission to break this federal law. Not only can the professional lose her license and irreparably harm the reputation of the salon, improper actions could result in legal action against the salon and nail professional. — Doug Schoon is chief scientific advisor for CND.

can

reused monomer become contaminated and cause or spread fungus? Monomer does not contain water, so neither bacteria nor fungi can survive in it. There’s no need to worry about this as a potential source of infections. Both nail enhancement brushes and monomer liquid are “self-disinfecting.” — Doug Schoon is chief scientific advisor for CND.

2012 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK

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f re q u e n t

Backscratchers Salon Systems

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why should I join the Backscratchers family of nail technicians?

Backscratchers has everything you need! For 30 years, we have manufactured and sold fiberglass and silk wrap systems, acrylic dip systems, gel systems, nail art, sanitation systems, SeptiFile filing systems, pedicure systems, and the SalonVac. Our products are named #1 in the world year after year. Customer service and the relationships we have with our students, schools, and nail technicians are the most important thing to us. We are here for you.

30 years of EMPOWERING nail professionals all over the world. TRAINED thousands of STUDENTS from coast to coast. Thank you for making us #1 WRAP SYSTEM in the world

why should I choose fiberglass? Backscratchers is the innovator of the Glass Glaze Fiberglass & Silk Wrap System. Ours is the original and the best! It has consistantly won the award of #1 silk wrap system for over 12 years. It is easy-to-apply, lightweight, durable, and looks natural. There is no better product on the market.

www. b a c k s c ra t c hers . c o m 800.832.5577

what

is the difference between Backscratchers Acrylic Dip System and traditional acrylics? We use no primers in our products. It may work well for customers who have had allergic reactions to other acrylic dip systems. It looks great, smells great, and is easy, fast, and very natural-looking.

whattype of education do you offer to students and nail techs? Backscratchers offers comprehensive training both in school classrooms and after graduation. On our website, you will find video tutorials, printable step-by-steps, and nail art galleries. We also have group forums on Facebook, Twitter, Google+, and Pinterest. Find us at tradeshows. Our CEO also has a blog for questions and answers. We answer our phones and if you e-mail us with a question, we respond to you within 24 hours, if not sooner. Ask us for product information, advice, how to promote your business â&#x20AC;&#x201D; anything. We are here to support you!

does Backscratchers give out free samples?

STUDENT DISCOUNTS

We keep a sample drawer available for our discretionary use. We also have priceefficient samples that allow students and nail technicians to try our products at a discounted rate. Please feel free to contact us regarding samples.

SCAN. SHOP. LEARN

www.backscratchers.com

naCH212_FAQ.indd 65

FREE PRODUCT

Buy directly from the manufacturer

at www.backscratchers.com or 800.832.5577

6/7/12 4:33 PM

health

the nails hotlin e ask th e

does

edi to rs How does your Top 25 list work? The Top 25 competitors list is compiled by NAILS Magazine, accumulating points until a top competitor is named at the end of the competition year, which usually coincides with the IBS Las Vegas show in June. Competitors can earn points for any nail competition open to the public. A 1st place showing earns 6 points. 2nd place earns 5 points. And 3rd place earns 4 points. NAILS Magazine denotes special “super points” for placing in specific nationally recognized competitions. Nail competitors in the “veteran” categories at these shows earn twice the amount of points listed above for the same placement, as well as giving points out for 4th place showings. (Novice categories earn regular points.) 1st place earns 12 points. 2nd place earns 10 points. 3rd place earns 8 points. And 4th place earns 6 points. The current NAILS “super points” shows are Beauty Expo in Long Beach, Calif.; ISSE Long Beach, Premiere Orlando; and IBS Las Vegas. For information on upcoming competitions and nail shows, check out NAILS Calendar page (www.nailsmag.com/events/upcoming) and help us make sure your competition work is getting recognized by NAILS by notifying us to any shows out there with competitions that are open to the public. If you send us results from a show we’re not aware of, NAILS needs a contact name for the event to supply us with the official results of the full competition contestants so we can properly attribute points. If you have any questions about the NAILS top competitor point system, please e-mail Judy.Lessin@bobit.com.

what’s

the difference between a UV sanitizer and an autoclave?

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polish (or the polish brush) get contaminated after use on a nail infection? Nail professionals are licensed to work only on healthy nails and intact skin. It is beyond the scope of the professional nail license to work on an infected nail. Applying nail polish on top of an infected nail could be reason enough for a nail professional to lose her license. This could also be considered as negligence, should a legal dispute arise. In short, never provide services on an infected nail plate. Although it’s true that infectious organisms will not thrive and grow in nail polish, this is only true when nail polish is applied to normal, healthy nail plates. It’s not true for infected nail plates! Any brush or nail file coming in contact with an infected nail should be immediately discarded to prevent transmission of the infection to other clients. If contact with an active nail infection were to occur accidentally, the nail polish should be discarded. — Doug Schoon is chief scientific advisor for CND.

A UV sanitizer sanitizes items via exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, a sanitizer is a product that reduces, but doesn’t eliminate, microorganisms from the inanimate environment to levels considered safe as determined by public health codes or regulations. On the other hand, sterilization, which is what an autoclave does, is the elimination of microbiological organisms. You should check with your state rules and regulations to be sure you are in compliance with required methods. But in my opinion, I’d recommend autoclaving in your salon to make it as safe as possible for your clients, even if current state regulations don’t mandate you to do so. — Doug Braendle is product manager at autoclave manufacturer SciCan Inc.

2012 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK

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f re q u e n t

Tammy Taylor Nails Gelprisa!

ya ske d qu estio ns

TAMMY TAYLOR ALL-IN-ONE FORMULA base gel - color gel - top coat gel

TAMMY TAYLOR

All in One Base-Color-Top Color Gel Fast Soak Off LED/UV Cure 15mL 0.50 fl.oz.e

what

makes Gelprisa! different from other gel-polish brands out on the market? Prisa says it all. It’s fast. Gelprisa! All In One Formula (base coat, color coat, top coat) with a five-minute application and five-minute soak-off. It’s hard to beat speed like that!

it ever necessary to use a gel top coat or a gel base coat with Gelprisa!? No. That’s one of the many wonderful qualities about Gelprisa! There is never a need for a gel top coat or a gel base coat, the top coat and base coat are already in the color. Applies like Polish

howdo I ensure this does not damage my client’s natural nails? Less soak-off time means less acetone exposure. It flakes off easily with an orangewood stick after soaking. It leaves the nail clean and smooth — there’s no need to file the natural nails. It does not weaken or dehydrate nails — promoting long and strong natural nails.

14 Day Nail Color "3 Free" does not contain: Dibutyl Phthalate (DBP), Formaldehyde, Toluene Zero dry time - no nicks or chips No Odor

what type of light do I need to cure Gelprisa!? Gelprisa! can be cured with an LED or UV light system, giving you and your clients a choice.

Fantastic alternative to nail enhancements and more durable than regular nail polish Safe for natural nails LED/UV Cure

www.tammytaylornails.com

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www.TammyTaylorNails.com

6/7/12 4:33 PM

health

the nails hotlin e ask the

How do I find an older story on your website?

ed ito

The best way is to use the “search” field at the upper righthand side of www.nailsmag.com. Once you type in your term and click the “search” button, the website will return all of the pages that meet your criteria. You’ll then be able to narrow your search results (using the choices in the lefthand column) by publication date, category, type (article, blog post, etc.), tag, and author. If you don’t find it on the first attempt, try a slightly different search term or try narrowing or broadening the term. If you still can’t find what you’re looking for, e-mail editor@nailsmag.com, and we’ll try to help you find it.

what

are green nails?

The most common bacterial infection of the nails is due to pseudomonas and is sometimes referred to as “green nails” because of the greenish-colored nail plate. Pseudomonas is generally caused from air pockets under the nail plate that allow moisture to get in and the green pigment-producing organism thrives in the moist environment. This is usually accompanied by onycholysis (lifting nail), so a dermatologist should intervene. You can advise the client to soak her nail in vinegar or a 5 percent household bleach solution several times a day for about four days. It will usually take several months for the green stain to grow out. — Compiled by NAILS staff.

The question of wearing artificial nails is a valid concern for women of child-bearing age. If a substance is harmful to humans, it is harmful to a fetus. Under normal circumstances, substances gain entrance to the human body through the lungs via inhalation, the stomach through eating and drinking, and the skin through absorption. Absorption of chemicals through the nails constitutes a minimal potential risk to pregnant women. Fingernails and toenails make up only a small portion of the body’s total absorptive surface area. Accordingly, the amount of material that can be absorbed through the nails is too small to be significant. Unlike the skin, lungs, and digestive system, nails are not designed to absorb foreign substances and can only do so if the nail is exposed to a substance for a long enough period to enable the material to penetrate it. Most substances that are applied to the nails either contain volatile chemicals that evaporate within a few minutes or are wiped off before absorption can begin. For example, polish remover, nail polish, and acrylics dry in a few minutes; once they’re dry, they cannot be absorbed by the nail. The nail bed cannot absorb much because it is covered by the nail plate. Also, blood vessels in the nail bed are not designed to absorb foreign substances, unlike blood vessels in the lungs and digestive system. For these reasons, it is very unlikely that a pregnant woman’s use of nail care products or artificial nails is harmful to her unborn child. It is impossible to say that nothing could happen, but in general, wearing artificial nails poses very little risk to pregnant women. Skin creams and lotions, on the other hand, may pose a problem for pregnant women because they are absorbed through the skin. Any cream applied to the body or hands during pregnancy can be harmful to a fetus if the cream contains substances toxic to the fetus. However, most moisturizing lotions that you would use in the salon do not contain toxins and can be safely applied during pregnancy. Advise pregnant clients to consult their doctor if they have any concerns about nail or skin care products they use. — Dr. Paul Kechijian is a dermatologist in Great Neck, N.Y.

it safe for pregnant women to get their nails done?

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f re q u e n t

SuperNail Gel Polish Removal

ya ske d qu estio ns

does gel polish damage the natural nail?

Nails that become damaged from gel polish are often a result of improper removal, not the gel product itself. Gel polish is designed to “soak off” not to be scraped, picked, or pulled. These actions remove the surface layer of the nail plate, damaging the nail. With continued wear and proper removal, gel-polish actually protects the nails and stimulates growth.

how do I educate my clients about proper gel polish removal? Turn your clients into gel polish fanatics and increase your revenue exponentially through education. Emphasize to your clients the importance of proper gel removal; this will help dispel fears of the gel polish service damaging their nails. Professional removal is always the best method but if returning to the salon isn’t an option, offer clients your own mini removal kit that includes SuperNail Remover Foils, an acetone sample, and an orangewood stick. You can also encourage them to purchase a remover essentials kit such as SuperNail’s At Home Removal Kit. Taking this extra step will boost their confidence in you as a nail professional and clients will be more likely to return for a repeat service.

what are the steps for proper gel removal? 1. File — Using a SuperNail 180-grit Wave File, gently remove the shine from the nail to break the seal of the gel. This helps ensure quickest gel removal.

2. Saturate — Saturate pad on SuperNail Gel Remover Wrap with ProGel Gel Remover or Acetone. (Traditional foil and cotton can also be used in place of Remover Wraps.)

100% Gel Polish LED/UV Curable

3. Wrap — Place saturated pad on top of gel nail. Wrap foil around finger and secure. Allow to penetrate for a minimum of 10 minutes.

Lasts For Weeks Easy Removal

4. Remove — If gel does not completely loosen and remove with foil, use an orangewood stick or cuticle pusher to gently remove remaining gel. Do NOT pry off. Be careful not to scrape away the surface layers of the natural nail plate. (Expert Tip: Be sure to remove foil and glide gel polish off one finger at a time to prevent gel remover liquid from evaporating). If any product still remains lightly buff away with a white buffing block.

72 Shades

www.supernailprofessional.com www.supernailprofessional.com

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what

UV nail lamps cause cancer?

ed the claims Three industry chemists recently test atologists that derm made in a report by two Texas-based The report A.” UVse the lamps are a source of “high-do s with UV bed ing also inaccurately compared UV tann g Schoon Dou — s ntist nail lamps. These nail industry scie ell (Light onn McC (CND), Paul Bryson (OPI), and Jim y the verif To s. claim Elegance) — were surprised by the e rmin dete to s lamp facts, they tested the leading UV nail com then and t emi how much UV-A and UV-B they the that d lude conc y pared that to natural sunlight. The of Nonmelanoma dermatologists’ report, “Occurrence Nail Light ExpoUV r Skin Cancers on the Hands Afte t skin to UV clien of sure,” overestimated the exposure rly characrope imp light emitted from UV nail lamps and fact, they In . hand the terized the effect of these lamps on more UV to sed expo noted, clients’ hands are likely to be ive from rece will they light while driving their cars than UV gel nail services. itted to LightTwo different UV nail lamps were subm ntific testing scie t den ing Science, a completely indepen laboratory. the following Testing by Lighting Sciences produced information: ps was less than 1. UV-B output for both UV nail lam . what was found in natural sunlight ain internal filters The bulbs used in UV nail lamps cont lts show that resu test that remove almost all UV-B. The exposed is is skin t the amount of UV-B to which clien an extra ding spen from equal to what they could expect weeks two the of day 17 to 26 seconds in sunlight each between nail salon appointments. than suggested in 2. UV-A exposure is much lower the dermatologists’ report. for client skin Test results show that UV-A exposure minutes in 2.7 to 1.5 a is equivalent to spending an extr ing on the end dep s, visit sunlight each day between salon type of UV nail lamp used. ety, a nail techFor those clients who still express anxi : wing nician can consider doing the follo the hands when > Place a small piece of white cloth over . placing them in the UV nail lamp n, she should still > If a client insists on wearing sunscree salon service any re be asked to wash her hands befo ld take speshou n nicia begins. In this case, the nail tech nsed and clea erly prop cial care to ensure nail plates are n. kdow brea ice serv dehydrated in order to prevent onnell McC Jim and on, — Doug Schoon, Paul Brys

causes fungal infections and how should I treat them?

Nail technicians reat fungal can’t actually treat ey should be able to infection, but they th signs i b recognize some off the off thi this problem. The green spots frequently seen on clients with extensions are more often pseudomonas and frequently are confused for fungus. Fungus organisms love to infest wide, open spaces. Keeping nails trimmed short will help prevent this, thus reducing trauma and creating less area for the fungus to invade. Keep in mind that fungal infections occur more often in toenails than in fingernails due to the moist environment in shoes. There are topical and oral medications available for treating nail fungus, which should be discussed with a dermatologist. The yeast fungus, candida, thrives in open spaces beneath the nail plate and is often the culprit in this situation. If the infection persists, antifungal therapy should be administered by a dermatologist. — Compiled by NAILS staff.

a: Q:

new client has had a nail fungus since she was an infant (she is now 19). She says no treatments have worked so she’d like to get enhancements. Is it OK for me to work on her nails? Artificial nails can definitely make a nail fungus worse by entrapping the fungus in a closed space. It is very unusual for an infant who is otherwise healthy to have nail fungus. Your client would benefit from being evaluated by a dermatologist to confirm that she has fungus. She may, for example, have separation of the nail from the underlying bed (onycholysis), which often results in secondary issues such as fungus, yeast, or bacteria growing beneath the nail. The first step is for her to have an accurate diagnosis. — Dana Stern, M.D. is a board-certified dermatologist specializing in nails. She works in private practice in New York City.

Visit pStudy www.nailsmag.com/UVLam . tion rma info re for mo

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na2011BB_Advertorial_

f re q u e n t

LeChat Perfect Match

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Q: what makes Perfect Match

stand out from other leading gel polishes?

Perfect Match Gel Polish comes with a free matching nail lacquer. This is our way of adding a little more bang to your buck. By having the Dare to Wear matching nail lacquer, you as a nail tech can create more revenue for yourself. Offer a matching color pedicure for an upgrade service or retail the matching Dare To Wear polish to clients. Perfect Match Gel Polish adds strength and shape to any natural nail, and will not lift or shrink from the free edge. Available in 60 vibrant colors and counting!

Q: how easy is it to create the perfect smile line?

Our Perfect Match French colors are easy-to-apply in one coat with full coverage, or two thin coats by curing in between layers. We offer the most popular worldwide French styles with our Perfect Match French Kits, Pink and White and Classic collections. For more in-depth instructions visit www.youtube.com/user/lechatartist.

Q: how can we create nail art designs using Perfect Match Gel Polish?

Here are some fun tricks for Perfect Match Nail Art lovers: Blending and fading of colors — create a color palette by choosing a combination of similar shades of Perfect Match colors and blend them together to create a dark to light effect. Marbleizing — apply a series of Perfect Match colors on top of any nail enhancement, using LeChat Designer Brush to create any pattern. Combined with other products — Perfect Match Gel Polish colors work beautifully as a background for Nail Architecture 3-D Acrylic Nail Art.

Q: what is the most convenient way to soak off Perfect Match Gel Polish?

Use our innovative Patent-Pending Nobility Pre-Soak Remover Pads and Nobility Nail Prep and Gel Cleanser Wipes. No Spill, No Mess and No Waste.

Horizontal

www.lechatnails.com

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Honing Your Skills

NAIL TROUBLESHOOTER Once you start working with clients regularly, you may run into minor mishaps that will challenge you. To help you out when they do, keep this chart handy for pointers on ﬁxing some of the most common problems.

POLISH: a solvent-based coating containing pigments and/or dyes that dries when exposed to air. PROBLEM

SOLUTION

Polish getting on the skin

Use balance-point positioning. Brace the hand that holds the client’s finger on the table, and hold the finger between your forefinger and thumb. Then use the little finger of your polishing hand to anchor it to the three unused fingers on the holding hand. This lets you pivot your brush in a smooth and comfortable way. Note that the thumb and forefinger of the holding hand pinches the client’s finger to pull back the soft tissue from the nail plate. This makes the nail bed a little bigger and ensures complete polish coverage.

Polish applied too thickly

Use the three-stroke method. Patting polish on can make it dry slowly and look thick. Three long, fluid strokes is the best way to apply polish evenly. Lay the brush flat to the nail; make one stroke down the center, then two on the sides. By practicing this along with balance-point positioning, your polish applications will get faster and more precise.

Hands too shaky

Don’t polish on an empty stomach. Low blood sugar can cause slight tremors and distract you from the job at hand. Make sure to eat something before work and stay fed throughout the day by snacking between clients or having a healthy lunch.

GEL:

pre-mixed nail enhancements that stay semi-liquid/semi-solid until cured with UV rays. Traditionally, gels are packaged in pots, but some are now available in polish bottles.

PROBLEM

SOLUTION

Client wary of UV ray exposure from lamp

Print out a copy of “Do UV Nail Lamps Emit Unsafe Levels of Ultraviolet Light?” (available on www.nailsmag.com/handouts) to educate your client. If she still expresses anxiety place a small piece of white cloth over the hands when placing them in the UV nail lamp, allow her to apply sunscreen, or offer her a traditional polish manicure.

Client pulls out hand from the lamp due to a painful heat spike

This happens when the chemical reaction that causes the gel to cure occurs too quickly. To prevent the heat spike, first ensure you are using the UV lamp that is made for that specific UV gel. Also, control the temperature in your work area (use low wattage table lamps), apply several thin coats of gel rather than one or two thick layers, and avoid over-filing the nail plate.

Lifting

Be sure to remove excess cuticle from the nail plate and properly prepare the entire nail surface. Make sure there isn’t any product on the eponychium or sidewalls after application.

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GEL-POLISH: a type of gel (sometimes a literal hybrid of gel and polish) that is commonly referred to as a chip-free manicure, it is applied with a brush like traditional polish but is cured inside a UV lamp like a traditional gel. PROBLEM

SOLUTION

Limited color selection

Layer gel-polish colors. Apply layers thinly, curing between each. (Shown: Various laying combinations on top of Entity’s One Color Couture Gel in Little Black Bottle)

Added glitter is causing service breakdown (chipping, etc.)

The culprit is often under-curing, meaning the light does not permeate the product because of the added embellishment. So be sure to apply the product as thinly as possible, then add a layer of clear acrylic or gel over the top of the art and stress area. The additives you choose to mix with your product should never make up more than 30% of your mixture.

Color appears uneven when applied

Shake the bottle (with the lid on tightly) for a consistently smooth application. Store the bottles at room temperature, and seal the lids tightly each time on a clean bottle neck. Tip: Use a hobby store paint shaker, like the one by Robart, to take the shaking strain off your hands.

Gel lifting from the free edge, leaving it bare

Gel shrinks when it cures, so make sure you seal the free edge by applying the gel horizontally at the very edge

ACRYLICS:

nail enhancements made by combining a liquid (monomer) with a powder (polymer), which chemically causes the mixture to harden.

PROBLEM

SOLUTION

Nails “pop” off in one piece

Make sure your applications steps are flawless. Possible causes are: 1) Product applied over the cuticle. 2) Oil left on the natural nail. 3) Over-prepared nail plate. (File natural nail very lightly only.) 4) Product was applied too dry. 5) Forgot to prime. 6) Tip covered more than half the nail bed.

Bubbles in the pink or clear

Submerge your brush completely into the monomer, press the side of your brush down on the bottom of the dappen dish, then lightly wipe the extra liquid on the side of the dish. Another method is to set the ball of acrylic on the nail bed and, using the belly of your brush, press the acrylic flat. For beginners, try submerging your brush, wipe excess off, and form a smaller ball.

Smile line is cloudy, not crisp

Apply the white near the smile line higher than the pink used to do the nail bed. When the nail is filed out, file the area that is higher away and the smile line will be crisp.

Poor C-curve (the nail has a flat appearance)

Before the product is fully hardened, mold the curvature using a wooden dowel (shown) or sculptured nail form.

NAILS offers video help in our Troubleshooter video series: www.nailsmag.com/nailstv.

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Honingg Your u Skills Sk s

ABCS

THE

OF SANITATION A is for apple, unless you are a nail tech on the frontlines of client safety. Join in an alphabetical micro-tour of how we clean up. BY ERIN SNYDER DIXON

utoclaves are used to sterilize implements through the use of high pressure steam.

acteria are single-celled microorganisms that come in a variety of shapes. Some cause infections, while others can be beneficial.

ontamination not only undermines your sanitation efforts by introducing potential diseasecausing pathogens but can also lead to service breakdown. Always start with squeaky clean implements and fresh products.

74 |

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2012 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK

isinfection is the use of a chemical procedure that eliminates virtually all recognized pathogenic microorganisms (including spores), but not necessarily all microbial forms. All implements and equipment used on clients must be disinfected before use.

PA-registered hospitalgrade disinfectants are available to deliver effective disinfection on pre-cleaned implements and tools. Always handle chemicals in a manner consistent with their labeling, including using gloves and protective eyewear. >>>

ILLUSTRATION BY YUIKO SUGINO

6/6/12 4:20 PM

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www.nailsmag.com/fifi/17244

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Right, from the Start. The first step to amazing color. Gelish® FOUNDATION Soak-Off Base Gel. Strengthens the bond between the nail plate and gel polish color, without damaging the natural nail.

Honing Your Skills

ungi reproduce via spores. Spores are difficult to kill, as they form a hard, outer layer. Sterilization (with thorough pre-cleaning) is the best salon method to kill them. Remember: Never attempt to treat or work on clients you suspect may have a nail disease or disorder. Instead, refer them to a physician for guidance.

erms are microorganisms that may cause disease.

and-washing with soap and water is one of the most effective practices to prevent the spread of germs in the salon. Technicians should wash before and after every client and clients should wash up before being seated for services.

nfections can be caused by a colonization of organisms like bacteria, viruses, or fungi. The best course of action is preventing the spread of undesirable organisms in the salon through generally accepted sanitation procedures.

etted footbaths must be carefully cleaned and disinfected according to the manufacturer’s instructions and state board regulations. If not thoroughly cleaned, a biofilm can build up, creating a breeding ground for dangerous bacterial colonies. A log of the cleanings must be kept. If you are unsure how to disassemble the parts in your footbath, consult your owner’s manual.

SallyBeauty.com 800-ASK-SALLY

ill time is the required exposure time for a disinfectant or sterilizer to work effectively.

L Scan • Watch • Learn

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aws are created at the federal, state, and local level to direct how we aapproach sanitation in the salon. States maintain a body of regulations ai aimed at protecting public safety; OSHA is mainly charged with workplace safety; and public health agencies may regulate yet other areas of our salon life. Get involved with industry issues visit regulatory web sites, and join mailing lists to stay up issues, t d to date on changes that may affect how you do business.

www.nailsmag.com/fifi/17285

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. Fortuitum is a mycobacterium found in oncert the environment. In recent years it has been blamed in concert t tissue with poorly cleaned footbaths for serious skin and soft-tissue infections after visits to nail salons.

Performs like Gel, Applies like Polish™ Get to know the award-winning Gelish® Soak-Off Gel Polish. Available in an array of colors. Cures in seconds with LED Light. Removes in just minutes.

ail professionals are the best people to educate the public about salon standards. Go ahead, invite clients into the back room to see your procedures and answer questions. Show your clients what to look for in a healthy salon and you won’t ever lose their business to a non-standard nail salon.

pportunistic pathogens are always looking for a place to set up house! In addition to keeping everything sparkling clean, maintaining nail health can keep out infectious invaders. A light touch, proper abrasives, and electric file training may enhance your nail skills and infection prevention efforts. Ditto, nixing clients’ bad habits, like cuticle or nail picking.

athogens may cause disease. The existence of blood-borne pathogens, such as HIV, demands that any implement that comes in contact with a break in the skin be promptly cleaned or disposed of safely. OSHA-compliant biohazard spill kits are available through medical, office, and cosmetology suppliers and come complete with a nifty red biohazard bag.

uaternary ammonium solution (Quats) is a popular method of salon immersion disinfection. Remember that soiled items must be pre-cleaned before placing in the solution for the required time. Quats solution must be fresh, so change it according to the manufacturer’s directions.

eusable items, such as towels, files, and implements, must be sanitized or disinfected according to state board guidelines before being used on another client. >>>

SallyBeauty.com 800-ASK-SALLY

Scan • Watch • Learn

www.nailsmag.com/fifi/17285

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The Seal of Approval Gelish® TOP IT OFF is the world’s best Soak-Off Sealer Gel. Period. It dries completely in seconds, adding a super-shiny finish that lasts and lasts and lasts.

Honing Your Skills

anitize vs. sterilize. Sanitizing reduces the number of disease-causing pathogens on a surface. Sterilization kills all living organisms.

hrow away any implements promptly that can’t be sterilized or disinfected appropriately.

ltra-violet light may be used for sanitation and disinfection in some states (check yours). The major drawback is that the ultraviolet light can only destroy pathogens it can reach, leaving portions (hinges, undersides, etc.) of implements untreated.

entilation exhausts contaminated salon air to the outside. Think of it as a way to remove some particulates, vapors, and contaminates from your breathing space. Local area exhausts capture dust and vapors at the source.

ashable equipment is able to withstand scrubbing to be used again and again. Washable items include towels, nonporous surfaces, special files, etc. State board regulations dictate which washable items may be used in the salon.

SallyBeauty.com 800-ASK-SALLY

Scan • Watch • Learn

www.gelishminis.com Gotta Get Gelished! Gel-Polish • Polish On/Soak-Off Made in the USA

anthic. Can you say, “yellow”? If you are seeing yellow on your table towels or in enhancements, look for sources of contamination. Dirty sculpting brushes, dusts in the air, or dirt (oil or contamination) trapped under enhancements may lead to service breakdown…or worse.

ou are the first line of defense in protecting g your clients while providing the hottest nail trends in the industry.

www.nailsmag.com/fifi/17285

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ilch. The number of sanitationrelated issues your salon will have if you stick to a strict routine of comprehensive salon sanitation and disinfection. For the rements, complete guide to your state requirements, ations. refer to your state board regulations.

YOU KEEP YOUR SALON SPOTLESS. Is your salon air clean too? The One That Works Salon Air Purifier was designed to remove bad smells, strong odors and nail dust. Your clients will be impressed by how fresh your salon air is from the moment they walk in!

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www.nailsmag.com/fifi/17212 2012 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK

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Honing Your Skills

POSTURE PRIMER If you develop ergonomic habits, you may never be plagued with the aches and pains that are sometimes viewed as unavoidable side effects of being a nail tech. We’ll show you how to comfortably do manicures and pedicures. BY MICHELLE PRATT As defined by our friends at Google,“ergonomics is the study of how equipment and furniture can be arranged in order that people can do work or other activities more efficiently and comfortably.” Below we look at how ergonomics can help reduce strain to our bodies, and we compare improper and proper posture during both pedicure services and manicure

PEDICURE — LOOKING DOWN

or enhancement services. During any service, whether it’s at a pedi throne or at a nail table, you have to contend with three main factors: supporting the weight of the client’s arm or leg, working while looking down at the hand or foot, and working while looking forward at the hand or foot.

PEDICURE — BEARING THE WEIGHT

(working on cuticles/ﬁling/polish, some pumice/sloughing)

IIncorrect: t When techs need d to perform clo close-up, detailed work, there is a tendency to round the shoulders and extend the neck to get as close to the foot as possible, which will cause strain to the muscles in the upper body and the entire back. Worse, when that doesn’t work, techs can add enormous strain to their bodies as they try to get into a position that gives them the best perspective. Correct: Many salons have opted to elevate the pedicure throne, which helps. However, techs should still be mindful of their posture while they perform the service. Cynthia Burt, injury prevention division manager at UCLA Environmental Health & Safety, says to choose a chair that offers lower back support and the ability to make height adjustments throughout the day. Techs should keep their back straight and supported, and use both the height adjustment of their chair and of the footrest to keep the foot at a workable level instead of straining the body. Burt suggests techs should also employ the help of the clients by asking them to bend their knees and move their feet to appropriate positions.

80 | 2012 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK

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Incorrect: Don’t bear the weight of a client’s leg by resting the foot in your lap or by using your own strength to lift and lower the leg. This strains the muscles in your shoulders and back, and, because you are connected to the client, it also reduces your mobility to be agile as you work through the different steps of the service. Correct: Instead, elevate clients and place their feet or legs on a footrest that bears their weight. Some pedicure units have footrests that are height-adjustable, which keeps the foot in a workable position during various stages of a pedicure. Even during the massage portion of a service, the footrests can bear the majority of the weight so techs can limit pressure on their back, shoulders, and neck.

.com

Check out the NAILS website for printable handouts on healthy working at www.nailsmag.com/handouts.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY KIMBERLY PHAM; MODELS: COURTNEY MCCARTER, RETRO BEAUTY BAR, LOS ALAMITOS, CALIF., ELIZABETH ASHTON, ELIZABETH ASHTON AYURVEDIC NAIL SPA, LONG BEACH, CALIF..

6/8/12 3:52 PM

NAIL TABLE — LOOKING DOWN (prep, application, some ﬁling, polish)

NAIL TABLE — LOOKING FORWARD

Incorrect: This technician has her shoulders rolled forward, her left arm is resting on the table, which pushes her shoulder up, she is twisted in her chair, and her legs are crossed. “Crossing the legs causes more compression on one side of the body than the other,” says Burt. “It also suggests that the person has very weak abdominall muscles. Crossing the leg tilts your pelviss so you can sit up straight for a longer period d without getting tired.” Correct: Many times techs may twist in n their chair because they want to get closer to o their work. Instead of contorting themselves into this position, Burt suggests techs might benefit from a table with a cut-out that allows her to sit straight in her chair but still work on the client’s hands from an angle. Techs can also work on strengthening their core muscles so they are able to sit straight for longer periods of time and to keep both feet on the floor to prevent unbalanced compression. Techs may also benefit from using a magnifying glass during the detail portion of the service.

(some filing/fine finishing)

NAIL TABLE — BEARING THE WEIGHT

IIncorrect: t It looks as if you’re holding a client’s li t’ h hand d with ith a gentle touch and soft hold, but the reality is that your wrists and hands are being repeatedly strained and taxed. Over time, the added weight, combined with the repetitive motion, takes a toll on your muscles and joints and can cause long-term problems, such as arthritis and carpal tunnel. Correct: As with a pedicure, some sort of rest should bear the client’s weight. Products on the market, such as the Wrist-Assist (shown), maintain a full range of motion for a client, while keeping her wrist supported and the hand limp. This alleviates the need for the tech to support the weight of the entire arm during the service and prevents the customer from “ﬁghting” with the tech for control of her ﬁngers.

Incorrect: We all have heard that it’s important to choose a chair with lower back support. The idea is to sit straight, feet on the ground, eyes ahead, with lumbar region supported. This may work in an office setting, but it’s difficult in the salon. Techs often sit at the edge of their seat while they’re working, both to get closer to their work, but also because this position supports their sitting bones. However, sitting at the edge of the seat offers no support to the lower back, and it causes strain and fatigue to the muscles. Correct: Keep legs on the ﬂoor, back straight, with sitting bones supported. Techs may need to invest in an ergonomically correct chair and should choose one that ﬁts their height and weight correctly and allows your shoulders and elbows to experience a full range of movement. >>>

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Gelish

Instructions:

CURES ALL FIVE FINGERS IN

:05 SECONDS Pedicure Friendly Patent Pending Eyeshield™ (Limits Light Exposure)

Magnetic Tray for Effortless, Thorough Sanitizing Cures Gelish® Foundation in

:05 Seconds Never Need to Replace Bulbs Meets Standard Safety Compliances World-Wide

Gelish® Magneto Instructions: STEP 1: After removing the shine from the natural nail plate with a 100/180 Buffer, apply Gelish Cleanser to a lint-free nail wipe. To remove dust, wipe the nail with the Gelish Cleanser. STEP 2: Apply Gelish pH Bond to the natural nail plate. STEP 3: Apply a thin coat of Gelish Foundation from the cuticle to the free edge (remember to seal the edge of the nail). STEP 4: Cure the nails under the Gelish LED 18G light for 5 seconds or a UV light for 1 minute. Scan • Watch • Learn

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STEP 5: Apply a thin coat of Gelish Magneto Magnetic Gel Polish from the cuticle to the free edge (remember to seal the edge of the nail).

www.gelish.com

6/8/12 3:52 PM

STEP 6: Cure the nails under the Gelish LED 18G light for 30 seconds or a UV light for 2 minutes.

Performs like Gel Applies like Polish

™

STEP 7: Apply a 2nd thin coat of the Gelish Magneto to the nails. To create the magnetic EFX design pattern, immediately place the cap that contains the magnet directly above the nail for 3-5 seconds. (Place the lip of the cap just above the cuticle area allowing the magnet to be positioned perfectly above the nail.) Cure under the Gelish LED 18G light for 30 seconds or a UV light for 2 minutes. STEP 8: Apply a thin coat of Gelish Top It Off Gel Sealer from the cuticle to the free edge to seal in the design on the nail (remember to seal the edge of the nail). Cure the nails under the Gelish LED 18G light for 30 seconds or a UV light for 2 minutes. Remove the tacky residue on nails with the Gelish Cleanser. Then, apply Gelish Nourish Cuticle Oil to rehydrate moisture into the cuticle and the skin surrounding the nail.

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Scan • Watch • Learn

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6/8/12 3:53 PM

Honing Your Skills

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Incorrect: To improve stability and get full use of the strength of their upper body, many techs plant their legs firmly on the ground and then sit at the edge of their stool during the part of the pedicure where they will massage, slough, pumice, or rinse the legs and feet of the client. While sitting with feet flat on the ground is correct, “perching” (the proper term for this position, says Burt) offers no support to the tech’s lower back and leads to muscle fatigue. Correct: Be sure to sit straight with feet on the floor to give you the best balance and support. Sit back fully in the chair to get all the benefits of the lumbar support. The correct position has the tech holding a straight posture while benefiting from the support the chair offers the lower back. If you find that you continue to sit forward without your lower back against the back of the chair, you may need to purchase a chair that fits you better or one that compensates for the mechanics of your task. Some chairs drop the front of the seat down to allow techs to work from a more open and maneuverable position.

www.nailsmag.com/fifi/17262

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scan & watch

www.nailsmag.com/nailstv

Scan this barcode to visit NAILS TV, where we have hundreds of technical videos, nail art technical, and troubleshooting videos to help you SEE how to improve your skills.

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6/8/12 3/6/12 3:53 9:48PM AM

Expanding Your Horizons

START saving NOW FOR THE

future

A ﬁnancial advisor teaches you how to make the most of your hardearned dollars. Her three-step plan requires you to commit to saving, make it a habit, and allocate wisely. BY JANE HONECK

ith money’s familiarity it’s easy to lose sight of its importance in your life today and more importantly, in your future. Because of this, I often instruct clients to put away debit and credit cards and use cash only to make money less intangible and more familiar. But, in your profession the opposite is true. Because salons are a cash-based business, it is always available and cash too becomes insubstantial and familiar. It becomes just as elusive as money spent with debit and credit cards. Dollars become just “pieces of paper” and you can easily fall into an “easy come, easy go” pattern of money management. But the earning of those dollars isn’t easy and it’s a shame that this familiarity lulls you into unconscious behaviors where you don’t make the most of your money today, but more importantly, you don’t save your money for tomorrow. So how do you change this unconscious pattern with money? Just follow this three-step plan:

To learn more about saving for retirement, go to www.nailsmag.com/retire.

.com

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1 1. Commit to using your hard-earned dollars for both today and tomorrow. Sounds easy, but how do you do that? Divide a sheet of paper down the middle. On the left side, list all the reasons why you don’t save now. On the right side, list the reasons why you want to save. Analyze the list and decide on which side you want to be — not where you think you should be, but rather where you want to be. A commitment needs to be your choice, not someone else’s. Once you choose, you will commit consciously to saving for the future instead of unconsciously spending for today. 2 2. Choose one day a week to contribute to your future. Take the entire day’s earnings (or a portion) and deposit it into a separate savings account. Make this a weekly ritual that takes priority over everything — no excuses. After a month, it will become a habit that replaces your old pattern of spending. 3 3. Allocate for the future. When you have $1,000 in your new account, you can allocate between short-term and long-term investments. Allocate a portion or percentage of the new account as a safety net for emergencies (six months to a year), a portion for larger, projected expenses (one to five years), and a portion for long-term investment (five years or more). It’s important to fund all three segments at the same time or you fall prey to never getting beyond the safety net portion. Once you have done the allocation, separate the money into three accounts, divide your weekly deposits in the same way and watch them grow. >>>

ILLUSTRATION BY YUIKO SUGINO

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I need help selecting a good UV light. What should I look for? Is price a good indicator? Why is it important to ask new clients if they have any allergies? I’m thinking about doing a client survey. What questions should I include and what’s the best way to go about it? How do you thank your competition model? I have a 50-year-old client with hard, brittle nails with recurring ingrown nails. Can I help prevent the ingrown nails? How do I get a small business loan to open my own nail salon? What is the chemistry behind nail prep items that help with bonding? What are “color drops” for acrylic monomers? Why aren’t my soak-off gels looking shiny after the first few days? When mixing glitters, what gives more of the 3-D look? Why do I have headaches at work? How can I get my nails to grow? What is your policy when it comes to putting enhancements on teens? Is it true that most white gels do not cure all the way? How do I avoid raising prices in this economy when my product costs are increasing? What is the best way to handle no-shows? Why did my client’s natural nails suddenly become grooved? I have a new client coming in and he told us he has athlete’s foot. How should I deal with this? Can I work on his feet? How do I approach our employees about staying in the salon when it’s not busy? What’s the trick to getting dark glitters to cure when doing rock star gel nails? Is it better to perform pedicures with or without gloves? A client wearing acrylics wants to come in weekly. Should another coat of acrylic be added or is there another procedure to follow? How do I keep wraps from lifting on a client with poor circulation? Why do tiny white spots appear on my finished acrylics? How do I know if a salon is right for me? Will the chlorine in swimming pool water affect nail polish colors? Can a booth renter make a commission for retail in the salon she rents from? If oil causes acrylic nails to lift, then why are we urged to use it and to tell clients to use cuticle oil? How to correct a vertical split in the nail? Where can I find manicurist-themed wall art or good manicurist clip art? How do I get clients to book their next appointment after their service is finished rather than calling just before they want to come in? What is the average shelf life for acrylic powder and monomer? I am trying to keep my hours down and work shorter days but I just can’t say “no” to my clients. Any advice? What do you do to be environmentally friendly in your salon? When someone comes to me for an acrylic fill and I wasn’t the one who put on the previous set, does it matter what product I use? Can you embed nail art in gels? Should a beginner tech earn the same wages as a more season tech? What techniques can techs use to keep salon conversations professional? What causes artificial nails to turn yellow? What is the best way to market to university students near a college campus? What should I wear on my first day of work? Can you offer any tips for keeping my books as full in the fall and winter months? Is it true that when you remove calluses with a razor, they come back harder? Can you use any primer with any acrylic? What does it mean to be an independent contractor? What causes the burning sensation when gels are curing? Do you bargain when it comes to your prices? What nail shapes and polish colors are best for natural nail clients with short nail beds? Am I entitled to a key as a booth renter in the salon where I work? Could chlorine in the water make my client’s acrylics lift? How do I promote myself within a full-service salon when I am the only manicurist? What methods and type of equipment do I need for paraffin treatments? How do you warn your clients not to use lotion before they come in? How do I determine my fee for party packages? How much space do I need to have spa parties? Should we have clients sign a consent form prior to receiving nail services? What’s the best way to keep rhinestones on the nail so they don’t fall off as easily? How do I fire a nail tech? How should I respond when clients ask me why they should pay a higher price for my services? Why do you choose not to wear a mask when filing acrylics or gels? Do you discuss politics in the salon? Is there a product that would help with the swollen and irritated cuticles for my nail biter client?

NAILSMAG.COM …

everything a nail tech needs naCH12money.indd na0611Q&Ahafp.indd 892

6/8/12 3:31 PM 5/13/11 11:16:13 AM

Expanding Your Horizons

Dollar Nail Art

The largest collection of Nail Art Transfer Foil Rolls anywhere, from simply elegant Gold & Silver to dynamically patterned colors. Over 100 vibrant colors and styles available.

Dollar Nail Art (954) 564-6303 • www.dollarnailart.com www.nailsmag.com/ﬁﬁ/24266

How to contact us: Send business and editorial correspondence to: 3520 Challenger St., Torrance, CA 90503 (310) 533-2400, (310) 533-2507 Fax Website: www.nailsmag.com

Editorial:

To contribute an article, make a suggestion, or ask a question, contact NAILS at the address above or: West Coast/Canada Call: (310) 533-2552 Fax: (310) 533-2504 Email: Hannah.Lee@bobit.com

Subscriber Customer Service: For subscription inquiries, you can: • Visit our subscriber service section online at: www.nailsmag.com/subscriptionservices/ • Email us at: subscriptions@bobit.com • Report an address change, inquire about an order, or solve a problem, call: (310) 533-2440 • To purchase back issues, books or videos, or give a gift, visit www.nailsmag.com (click on “store”)

These three easy steps are all it takes to set up a lifetime savings plan: you’ve made the commitment, formed a habit, and allocated wisely. Once your plan is underway, you’ll need to decide where to invest these dollars. There are many types of accounts. Here are a few points to consider. > Convenience. Since you are trying to make this a habit, set up your initial accounts where it is easy to make deposits. Remember, it won’t take much of an obstacle to end a habit. Make it easy to stay committed. > Fees. Because today’s savings accounts only pay about 1%, find accounts where monthly fees won’t eat up the earnings. Credit unions are often a great source for low fees. > Risk tolerance. As your money grows, there are more investment options for generating higher investment returns (earnings). Higher returns generally mean higher risk of loss. Don’t be talked into investments that keep you awake at night worrying. Find an investment with whose risk you are comfortable. > Investment horizon. This refers to the length of time you expect your money to be invested. If you will use the money within a year, use a savings-type account where there is no risk for untimely fluctuations in value. But, if you won’t be using the money for a long time, you can invest in something that has higher returns, more risk, and consequently more fluctuations. With a longer investment horizon, you can time the withdrawal of these dollars and not worry about having to do it on a “bad” day. > Mutual funds. With over 10,000 funds to choose from, you have a wide variety of investments to match your risk tolerance and investment horizon. Using mutual funds gives you the option to not “put all your eggs in one basket.” So even with only a small amount to invest, you can invest in small pieces of many stocks and bonds allowing you to diversify and spread your risk. > Retirement plans. For long-term investments, take advantage of tax laws that allow you to defer and/or eliminate tax consequences. By doing so, you’re using government dollars to contribute to your future. There are many types of retirement plans to choose from. Consult your tax professional to find the one that fits you best. These are just some of the investment considerations ahead of you. Before you know it, your savings will grow into something to be proud of and you’ll be on your way to financial freedom. Regardless of your age — today is the perfect day to begin a new conscious life with money.

Advertising:

To find out about advertising: West Coast/Canada Call: (310) 533-2465 Email: Michelle.Mullen@bobit.com East Coast/International Call: (562) 377-0465 Email: Mary.Baughman@bobit.com

Schools:

If you would like to find out more about our “Partners in Education” program for schools or to sign up to distribute the annual Career Handbook, visit our website at www.nailsmag.com/CareerHandbook/

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Jane Honeck, CPA, PFS, specializes in tax and ﬁnancial planning for professionals, small businesses, and individuals. She is the author of The Problem With Money? It’s Not About the Money! To learn more, visit www.janehoneck.com.

2012 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK

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MARKETPLACE Kami Nail Art®

DECO POLISH RACKS

Kami Nail Art® offers the most extensive line of USA made professional nail art with hundreds of dazzling products including: Glitter, Confetti, Foil, Nuggets, Pearls, Paints, Art Brushes and Tools, Decals, Striping Tape, 3-D Flowers, Lace, Snakeskin, Glass Jewels, Rhinestones, Earthstones, Rock Candy, Art Kits, Metallic Pearls and Leaves, Organizers, Bullion Beads, PLUS Swarovski® Crystals — 35 colors in sizes 5, 7, 9, 12, and 16. Kami Nail Art® — The #1 choice for nails professionals! Download the Kami catalog at www.kaminailart.com. Order online at www.nailsuppliesdirect. com — your complete Kami Nail Art® source. (800) 344-3299 www.kaminailart.com

Functional modern art for your salon www.decopolishracks.com www.nailsmag.com/fifi/17150

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* Choose the right size to

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PLEASE CONTACT:

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Mary Baughman - East Coast 310.533.2412 mary.baughman@bobit.com

MARKETPLACE?

Michelle Mullen - West/Canada 310.533.2465 michelle.mullen@bobit.com

NAILS Magazine, 3520 Challenger St., Torrance, CA 90503 • 310/533-2400 www.nailsmag.com

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Expanding Your Horizons

NAIL ART STUDIO

Cosmic Showers

Nail art is a great add-on service that brings in extra income, plus it makes your services more memorable in clients’ minds. You don’t necessarily need natural artistic talent to create eye-catching designs. Here are some easy step-by-steps to get you started.

Hillary Fry, DNA (inside Scenario Hair Design), Shorewood, Wis.

Dotted French

Robin Moses, www.robinmoses.com, Florence, Ore. 1. Create a French manicure, and don’t worry if the smile line isn’t perfect. 2. Sand down a toothpick so that one side is a large dot and the other end a fine dot. (Or use a nail art dotting tool, if you have one.) Pick a palette of colors that go together, in this case light blue, dark blue, and green. Use the larger side of the toothpick to create light blue dots above and below the smile line. 3. Use the smaller side of the toothpick to create dark blue dots above and below the smile line. Use the smaller side of the toothpick to create green dots above and below the smile line. You can even add small dots inside the large dots if you want.

1. Apply Shellac UV Base Coat. Cure in a Shellac UV Lamp for 10 seconds. Apply a thin coat of Shellac in Asphalt. Cure for two minutes. Apply a second thin coat of Asphalt. Cure for two minutes. Apply microfine glitter to the nail, concentrating it on the center of the nail and toward the free edge. Glitter travels quickly, so start where you want the art to end if you find it hard to control. 2. Apply a layer of ultrafine glitter to the nail. 3. Apply fine glitter to the free edge. It shouldn’t be perfect, but it can have a vague resemblance to a French. 4. Apply hexagonal hologram discs along the dividing line between the ultrafine glitter. Apply Shellac UV Top Coat. Cure for two minutes. Use a plastic-backed lint-free pad soaked with 99% isopropyl alcohol to remove the inhibition layer. Watch the video at nailsmag.com/video/cosmicshowers.

Cute Cupcake

Watch the video at nailsmag.com/video/dottedfrench.

Swirled Elegance 1.

Lacy Hood, En Wrapture Salon, Post Falls, Idaho

1. Apply a layer of Akzéntz Luxio Gel in Noir. Cure. 2. Apply a thin layer of Odyssey Nail Systems One Gel Paint in Sterling. Don’t cure. 3. Use a dotting tool to create a swirl pattern. Cure.

1. Polish the nail white. Use EZ Flow colored acrylic in Decisions, Decisions to make a sort of cone shape. 2. While it’s still wet, but not runny, use something sharp (like a cuticle pusher) to make vertical slats. 3. Use EZ Flow colored acrylic in Sweet Pea to create the frosting. Drag the color down on the sides and maybe somewhere in the middle. Imperfection is key. 4. While the Sweet Pea is still wet, place a red rhinestone off-center so it’s flush with the acrylic. 5. Use INM colored acrylic in Rain Forest for the stem.

Watch the video at nailsmag.com/video/swirledelegance.

Watch the video at nailsmag.com/video/cutecupcake.

Gina Silvestro, Essentialz of Beauty, Cranston R.I.

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.com

Visit nailartgallery.nailsmag.com for more step-by-steps. Use discount code CH12 to save 50% on a pro membership.

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Ad Index

For more information direct from our advertisers, call (888) 745-4030, or go online to www.nailsmag.com/fifi. Fifi #

Advertiser

Page

17235

1st National Processing .....................................................................91

17212

Aerovex Systems ...............................................................................79

17305

Akzentz Nail Products ........................................................ 17, 63, 94

17296

Artistic Nail Design .................................................................. 4-5, 51

17111

Backscratchers Salon Systems ........................................21, 65, 94

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WWW.NAILSMAG.COM 32 1

30 1 31 32

17160

Beauty Tech ...........................................................................................91 Bags Rep .................................................................................................91

17309

32 1

Pol sh by Numbers 1

17187

Bio Sculpture Gel ................................................................................61

17119

China Glaze ..........................................................................................39

17247

clean + easy .........................................................................................94

CND .........................................................................................................11 17231

Dashing Diva...................................................................................... 6-7

17150

Deco Polish Racks ...............................................................................91

17266

Dollar Nail Art ..............................................................................90, 91

17262

Dr. G’s .....................................................................................................86

17203

En Vogue .................................................................................19, 53, 94

17131

Entity Beauty Inc......................................................................... 28, 29

17110

EZ Flow .......................................................................................... 55, 69

17123

Gena .......................................................................................................94

17192

GiGi .........................................................................................................59

17285

Hand & Nail Harmony ........................ 2-3, 41, 76, 77, 78, 84-85

17122

ibd .......................................................................................................... 47

17204

It’s So Easy .......................................................................................... 94

17267

J & A USA ............................................................................................. 15

17109

Jessica Cosmetics ................................................................13, 49, 95

17225

Kami Nail Art ........................................................................................91

17140

Le Chat .....................................................................................23, 71, 95

17257

Light Concept Nails ..........................................................................95

17211

Light Elegance .....................................................................................57

17279

Nail Tech Supply .................................................................................34

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respond

www.nailsmag.com

OPI Products ................................................................................ 37, C4 17101

Orly International .......................................................................... C2-1

17168

Orly International ................................................................................ 9

17244

Pro Spa ...................................................................................................75

17287

Salon Iris ................................................................................................27

17245

Salon Pure Air ......................................................................................26

17104

Seche .....................................................................................................43

17221

Super Relax ..........................................................................................25

17214

SpaRitual ..............................................................................................95

17233

Tammy Taylor .....................................................................................67

17260

Young Nails .......................................................................... 45, 95, C3

The Ad Index is provided as a courtesy to NAILS advertisers. The publisher assumes no responsibility for errors or omissions.

remember

reconnect

research

renovate

2012 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK

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Hot Products

BACKSCRATCHERS

AKZÉNTZ Akzéntz has a line of brush-on, soak-off gel polish called Luxio. The soak-off gels come in polish-like bottles and brush on easily like polish, while soaking off in 10 minutes. The colored gels will last without any chipping, smudging, cracking, or lifting, and have 52 custom colors for your clients to choose from. (800) 720-7833 www.akzentz.com www.nailsmag.com/ﬁﬁ/17305

Students, educators, and salons worldwide are using Backscratchers SeptiFile Sanitizable Filing System with each client service to protect their clientele from cross-contamination as well as to save time. Simply remove and discard SeptiFiles’ used abrasives, disinfect the file handle in Backscratchers Cavicide, and apply new abrasives. Sanitation is the key! (800) 832-5577 www.backscratchers.com www.nailsmag.com/fifi/17111

CLEAN + EASY clean + easy’s BAREzilian is a full-body wax that removes it all, from fine peach fuzz to thick coarse hair. The hard wax adheres to the hair, not skin, so skin is left feeling soft and smooth with no residue. It can be used on delicate areas so go ahead and dare to be bare. (800) 621-9585 www.cleanandeasyspa.com www.nailsmag.com/fifi/17247

GENA SPA PRODUCTS Unveil soft, smooth feet with Gena® PediSpa™. Our new look and formulas are infused with argan oil complex including AHA’s and vitamins A, B, D, & E to nourish and hydrate. A system of pedicure products that offer a relaxing experience with aromatic scents of: lavender, eucalyptus, mint, and green tea. Indulge with Gena’s PediSpa Pedicure System and revitalize skin while offering the ultimate spa experience. (800) 621-9585 www.genaspaproducts.com www.nailsmag.com/ﬁﬁ/17123

EN VOGUE Lac It! Gel Polish applies like a polish yet has the durability of a gel. Enhance your service while saving time. Say goodbye to chipping, smudging, and long drying times. Your client will enjoy long lasting chip resistant nails that stay glossy for weeks. Lac It! and Love It! (888) 659-5559 www.envoguenails.com www.nailsmag.com/ﬁﬁ/17203

IT’S SO EASY Nail art possibilities are endless with over 100 colors from It’s So Easy. Available in a beautiful variety of glitters, crèmes and neons, the water and nail polish-based formulations come in a convenient 1/4 oz. bottle with a firm, flexible brush for easy movement. The It’s So Easy Stripe Rite Brush and Polishes are available at Sally’s Beauty Supply and other fine beauty supply stores nationwide. (800) 621-9585 www.itssoeasynails.com www.nailsmag.com/fifi/17204

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JESSICA COSMETICS INTERNATIONAL In a jam-packed, 24/7 world, who has a moment to worry about chips or smudges? GELeration goes from work to work out and protects the natural nail as it grows for 3-4 weeks of rich, dependable color. Build your soak-off gel services with the GELeration Essentials Kit and an array of 90+ vibrant soak-off gel shades. (800) 582-4000 www.jessicacosmetics.com www.nailsmag.com/ﬁﬁ/17109

LCN LCN has four new summer colors for its gel-polish line, Recolution. The colors are Colour Me Up, a deep purple; Fanappletastic, a green candy shade; Spice Up Your Life, a fun orange; and Some Like It Hot, a bold red with a hint of orange. LCN’s Recolution is a soakoff color gel system that applies like polish and can be soaked off quickly. It is elastic, scratch-proof, and extremely durable. (800) 866-2457 www.lcnusa.com www.nailsmag.com/ﬁﬁ/17257

LE CHAT Introducing the first six colors from the New Perfect Match “Mood” Gel Polish Collection. Featuring vibrant colors, the mood-changing technology is just in time to help you flaunt in the hot summer days and flirt with cool summer nights. Whatever your fling, feeling a cool Angel’s Breeze while watching a Partly Cloudy Sunrise Sunset. Or even A Bit Chilly looking for that Groovy Heat Wave before you get hit with another Frozen Cold Spell, you’ll be ready! (510) 741-9998 www.lechatnails.com www.nailsmag.com/fifi/17140

SPARITUAL SpaRitual’s new Pigment Collection for summer 2012 features a range of bold, color-saturated shades. Inspired by the precious resources of the earth, the line highlights natural colors with boldness and strength. The colors are Clay, Poppy, Heliotrope, Indigo, Camellisa, and Henna. www.sparitual .com www.nailsmag.com/ﬁﬁ/17214

YOUNG NAILS

The response to Young Nails’ mani.Q color soak-off gel has been awesome. After all, the formula is stable, reliable, predictable, and abundant. The color selections are absolute customer favorites. And you get it all with a zippy 30-second cure (saving you almost 20 minutes per client). In or out of the bottle, it’s always all about you. (800) 777-9170 www.youngnails.com www.nailsmag.com/ﬁﬁ/17260

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Expanding Your Horizons

.com

NAILS ONLINE RESOURCES

One of the best resources for nail techs is the Internet. You’ll ﬁnd step-by-step tutorials (with photos or even videos), new product mentions, spa pedicure recipes, and veteran nail techs who are willing to share their expertise with you. Not to toot our own horn too much, but we recommend that you bookmark www.nailsmag.com as we know you’ll ﬁnd it helpful as you grow your career.

BLOGS: First Person Accounts www.nailsmag.com/blogs

Career Handbook Channel: Start Your Search Here www.nailsmag.com/careerhandbook Our Career Handbook website contains helpful articles and links beyond what’s in this printed edition. We know how intimidating it can be to take the first steps in a new profession, so use this site as your portal to a new career. You’ll find information on starting your career, building your business, honing your skills, and expanding your horizons. Plus, a digital flipbook of the Career Handbook is available for reference, in case you ever misplace your hard copy.

NAILStv: Learn by Watching www.nailsmag.com/nailstv There are hundreds of free videos on NAILStv. The site is similar to YouTube, but only includes videos relevant to professional nail techs. Watch everything from product tutorials to beauty tradeshow footage to salon tours and more. Plus, our new Troubleshooter series clariﬁes nail prep and product application techniques — perfect for newbies.

NailsMag.com hosts nine blogs written by experts in the ﬁeld. For newbie nail techs, two that are of special interest are NAILS 101: A Student Blog, where aspiring nail techs chronicle their progress in beauty school, and Blueprint of a First Year, where new salon owners share the ups and downs of their ﬁrst year in business. Our other blogs are: 365 Days of Nail Art, The Coaching Chronicles, Competition Insider, FingerNail Fixer, From the Editors, Maggie Rants & Raves, and Viet {Salon} Voice.

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NAILS ENCYCLOPEDIA: An Accessible Resource www.nailsmag.com/encyclopedia NAIL ART GALLERY: Get Inspired nailartgallery.nailsmag.com

Like your textbooks from beauty school, the NAILS Encyclopedia can serve as a great reference tool for you. It’s written specifically for professional nail technicians and defines and describes nail diseases and disorders, specialized terms pertaining to nail art and design (including what brushes help you create specific strokes and lines), histories of the top companies and nail professionals, product ingredients (popular and obscure), and hundreds of other terms.

Career Handbook readers can get a 50% discount on a Pro subscription to our Nail Art Gallery. The first 50 Career Handbook readers to sign up and use the code CH12 will get the discount.

Nail Art Gallery is a social networking/photo sharing site that allows you to do more to showcase your own art, as well as browse and get inspired by other nail artists’ work. You can create a personal proﬁle, become a fan of other nail artists, and upload all of your nail art photos in one easy-toshare place. In addition, you can interact with other nail artists by browsing, liking, or commenting on their photos. It’s free to get started, and a Pro membership is available for $10/year that gets you extra features like unlimited photo uploads and featured artist spots on our other websites.

NAILS Digital Edition: Free Monthly Magazine www.nailsmag.com/digital-edition

FACEBOOK, PINTEREST, AND TWITTER: Online Networking www.facebook.com/nailsmag www.twitter.com/nailsmag www.pinterest.com/nailsmagazine

Join NAILS Magazine on Facebook, Twitter, and Pinterest to network with hundreds of thousands of nail techs from around the world. You’ll also get to interact with the magazine’s editors, get dibs on contributing to upcoming stories, and be eligible for exclusive product giveaways.

From the makers of the NAILS Career Handbook comes NAILS Magazine, a monthly magazine that is dedicated to the success of nail professionals. Each issue includes informative articles on the topics of technique, style, business, and health, plus in-depth feature stories. There are also freebies and giveaways, reader nail art photos, and new product spotlights in every issue. If you’re the computer-savvy type, opt for a digital edition (it’s free!), which will make you among the ﬁrst to receive the magazine every month. You’ll be able to virtually “ﬂip” through the pages on your computer. If a printed magazine is more your style, then go to www.nailsmag.com/subscribe, where you can order a (U.S.) subscription for $20/year. (The Canadian rate is $57/year, and the rate for other international locales is $87.)

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Nail techs don’t let nail techs… We asked nail techs to ﬁnish this sentence:

... give up on their dreams of becoming something amazing.

...stop learning about new products to stay excited and fresh.

— Aimie Westerman, Posh Nails & Designs, Williams Lake, B.C., Canada

— Kandice Astamendi,

Performance Nails @ Chrissy’s, Glendale, Calif.

…feed ridiculous industry myths about professional products and services.

…go without being encouraged to seek continuing education.

— Melanie Carey,

Acrylic Nail Design, Dieppe, New Brunswick, Canada

...trash talk other nail techs.

— Holly Schippers,

— Anna Love,

FingerNailFixer, Bussey, Iowa

Exalted, NailandBody.com, Parksville, B.C., Canada

… use dirty implements. — Susan Acciari,, St. Paul,, Minn.

...text while working.

…get g disc discouraged when theyy are first sta ar out. starting — Er E Erin Snyder Dixon, Extrem emities Spa Salon,, N Newport News, Va. Extremities

— Sav Marie Durham

... fforget g they need to network with other techs.

…comprom …compromise mi quality foor quantity. for — Tania Rice, Indir Indira ra Salon and Spa,

Regina, Saskatchewan, Saskkka Canada

— Alica Best, Upscale Nail Bar, Griffin, Ga.

... h ...have na a naked n nails. —S Samantha a Huf

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ILLUSTRATION BY YUIKO SUGINO

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COLOR AT THE SPEED OF LIGHT A SERVICE ONLY YOUR SALON CAN DELIVER!

ICONIC OPI SHADES SHINE-INTENSE LASTS FOR WEEKS CURES IN 30 SECONDS

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