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photographerS Eamonn Sexton Ken Brown, KAB Photography
COVER Jonathan GQ (Candymoon Photography)
editorial contributors Gregg Shapiro, Ace Magyar, Parker Carr Sue Deaunym, Anita Taylor, Michael Elder
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boiMAG
fall fashon
finds
By Anita Taylor
Your Auntie Anita is back from hitting the fashion show circuit. After jetting back and forth between, New York, Milan, London and Paris I have bags under my eyes that would do Louis Vuitton proud. But it was all worth it my darlin's because I’ve got the lowdown on the hottest trends and looks in menswear. This year it’s all about cut and color, with some fun accessories showing up in a number of shows.
Cut
Slim slacks succeed. Yes, designers were going for a looser fit in the past few years, but everyone likes to see a man in a pair of snug trousers, so the slim fit is back. Stovepipe slacks, very popular back in the mod ‘60s, are back. They’re cut just above the ankle. The slim silhouette below is countered by the trend of bigger, bulkier layers on the torso. It’s all so early Beatles. The roll neck was seen paired with suit coats (very Dick Cavett) and even, in the case of Tom Ford, paired with formal wear! Which reminds me, many designers were showing brown formal wear! Really? I will not dignify it with a description. Color Dark greens, from forest to pine, were seen on many catwalks. Treat it as a neutral and pair it with everything, except bright red (too Christmasy.) Some mixed a variety of shades in a head to toe look, we suggest adding one exceptional piece in this color to augment your existing wardrobe. Matthew Miller had a divine forest green bomber jacket that Auntie coveted. The other hot color was from the other side of the color wheel. It seems that orange really is the new black! Hardy Amies paired a pale pumpkin pair of chinos with a pale grey blazer. The other surprising trend was the extensive use of metallic fabrics, from gold lamé coats to an exceptionally beautiful pair of gun-metal grey trousers by Jil Sander. boiMAG
Accessories Two big trends on the catwalks; fedoras and oversized bags. The other trends seemed to be inspired by last year’s Polar Vortex (and since this winter we’re supposed to experience “ChiBeria”, it might not be bad to add a few of these pieces to your wardrobe.) Oversized pashmina-like swathes of fabric wrapped many necks on the runway, or were draped on the body like serapes. Burberry featured them most prominently. Big fluffy coats and sweaters seemed particularly cozy. Dolce & Gabbana’s over-sized coats reminded me of a giant teddy bear. Even Fendi found furry fabric fabulous.
Quilting was also big, especially in down coats. However, these weren’t the big puffy jackets we’ve seen before. Fabric technology allows a slimmer silhouette without sacrificing warmth. My favorite use of quilting was on a leather biker jacket. All this warm clothing will help because you won’t have a beard to hide behind. Without exception, the men at the runway shows were all clean-shaven. Of course, if the cold doesn’t bother you, opt for the assless chaps Versace paraded down the runway with boldly patterned skivvies. boiMAG
CHANGE IN THE HAIR By Anita Taylor
Whenever someone brings in a picture from a magazine and says, “Make me look like this," a hairdresser friend of mine responds, “These are scissors, not a magic wand.” It doesn’t matter what the hot hair trends are, if the style isn’t right for the shape of your face or your kind of hair (or lack thereof), you’ll never look like that magazine picture (and we won’t even mention the extra 20 pounds you’re carrying and the fact that you can’t be PhotoShopped 24/7.) However, if you know a few simple tricks, you’ll be able to determine which trends work for you and which don’t. Hairstyles should hide your flaws and play up your strengths, by directing the eye towards those things you like about yourself and downplaying the features you don’t. For example, bangs can help to hide a big forehead or receding hairline, while a textured, midlength cut can hide prominent ears. The most important factor is choosing the right hairstyle for your face shape. To figure out your face shape, look in a mirror and trace the outline of your face (not your head) with a dry-erase marker. Step aside and look at the shape. For advice on how to pick the best hairstyle for your face shape, see page 13.
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The next step is assessing your hair. Texture, density and movement determine how your hair will react to a style or cut. Keep in mind that your hair’s texture and density can change due to factors such as aging, health and color treatment, you may have had thick hair as a child, but find as an adult it’s become wispy.
Consider how much time you’re willing to put into your hairstyle every day and how well you are at manipulating product in your tresses. For example, I need to have a style that is basically wash and go. I don’t have the patience or dexterity needed to manipulate my hair. When I try to do the messy, just got out of bed look, I end up appearing as if I just had electro-shock therapy.
Speaking of products, decide how much time and money you’re willing to invest in your hairstyle. Are you willing to drop $50 for a jar of pomade?
It all boils down to the fact that and hair cut or style should complement both your personal style and your personality. For a good guideline look at the clothes you wear most often. If you prefer classic silhouettes, don’t go for an extreme ‘do. If your style screams edgy or unconventional don’t go for something restrained. Black men have special needs when it comes to styling hair, so I went to celebrity stylist Robert Baker for some input. According to Baker, “Current trends for afro hair still sees the dominance of tight close hair styles and slightly grown out shapes. The difference with shorter styles is the shape and length; wearing the top longer than the sides and back; the top having a taller shape with soft rounded edges, which is a retake on the 50s higher tops and 80s flat top but much softer and less sculpted. The great thing about this look is that it can work with a range of textures, tight to loose and can be worn with most face shapes.”
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GETTING GOOD HEAD By Anita Taylor
The key to picking the right hairstyle is to know what works best with the shape of your face.
Triangular faces (wide cheekbones
and forehead, pointed chin) looks best with longer hairstyles that add width and volume on top and have a slight fringe to help soften the silhouette, which narrows the forehead and adds the illusion of width to the chin.
Oblong faces (longer than it is
wide, often with a rounded jaw line, cheekbones and jaw the same width) should avoid taking the sides too short, especially if leaving the top longer. Keep the shapes in proportion. Bangs will reduce the appearance of length and maintain balance. This is a great face for a quiff or pompadour.
Square faces (square jaw line,
almost as wide as it is long, straight sides, jaw and cheekbones the same width) should accentuate the strong masculine features, with a tight, short haircut that enhances the facial features. Keep the hair softer around the edges and avoid a center part or bangs.
Diamond shaped faces (the
cheekbones are the widest part of the face, forehead and jaw line are narrow) need to bring some hair length onto the face in order to soften the silhouette and create extra width on top. If you have wavy hair, go with a leaner style, one that is narrower at the cheeks and adds some fullness at the crown, which will automatically soften the features
Heart shaped faces (cheekbones
are the widest part of the face, face is wider than it is long, and the chin is noticeably pointed) also look better with longer hair, especially a squarish cut. Opt for a messy look that covers your forehead, as it will draw attention to your nose, mouth and eyes.
Oval faces are considered the ideal
(slightly rounded jaw, no unusual characteristics, face shape resembles the shape of an egg) and nearly any haircut that works with your hair’s texture will be flattering. The only thing to avoid is bangs as they will tend to make your face look rounder.
Round faces (curved jaw line, face
almost as wide as tall) should choose styles that add a bit of height and feature an off center part or waviness. Avoid bangs and center parts as they tend to give the appearance of a “moon face”. boiMAG 13
Motor Mouth Sneak PeEks By Parker Carr
There is (if you’ll excuse the pun) a bumper crop of new vehicles for 2015. Many of the cars here are already on sale, most will be on dealer lots by Oct. 1 and more will be introduced throughout the year. Here are a few we’re eagerly anticipating. The Acura TLX will replace the TL and TSX sedans in its lineup. The new TLX is a midsize luxury/ sports sedan based upon Honda Accord. It is powered by a choice of 2.4-liter 206hp V4 or a 3.5-liter 290-hp V6. The V4 has an eight-speed automated manual trans, while the V6 offers a nine-speed. The TLX will feature the latest in collision prevention systems; forward collision warning with auto-braking, lane departure and blind spot warning systems and adaptive cruise control.
some time now, but is finally available in the U.S. The subcompact crossover SUV has a 138 hp, 1.4-liter turbocharged four-cylinder engine with either front or four-wheel drive (as well as an optional all-wheel-drive system) and a six-speed automatic transmission. Ten airbags line the passenger compartment, and among its connectivity features is built-in 4G LTE Internet service, which can serve as a mobile Wi-Fi hot spot. The Ford Mustang celebrates its 50th anniversary with a major redesign, with both the coupe and convertible versions sporting a lower, sleeker look. In addition to updating the 3.7-liter 300 hp V6 and 5.0-liter 420hp V8 they’ve added the option of a 2.3liter “EcoBoost” turbocharged four-cylinder 305 hp rear wheel drive. Integral-link rear suspension replaces the solid rear axle, improving the ride and handling. Among some of the new options are; blind-spot warning and adaptive cruise control.
Although it has been available in the U.S. as a four-door hatchback, the compact Audi Jeep Renegade A3 for 2015 is now also offered as a sports is a new compact sedan. Two turbo-charged four-cylinder crossover SUV engines with 170 or 220 hp versions that will be sold are available. The six-speed dual-clutch around the world. automated manual transmission is standard It looks like a cross on all models. Options include; several between Jeep’s high-tech collision prevention systems and Wrangler and a Kia Soul. One big difference, built-in 4G Internet connectivity. removable roof panels, which make it even sportier. It comes with a choice of a The Chevrolet Fiat-supplied 1.4 or 2.4-liter turbocharged Trax has been four-cylinder engine with 160 and 184 hp. available in The six-speed manual is standard and the more than available automatic transmission offers 60 markets nine speeds! Front wheel drive is standard, around the but available 4x4 systems give it off-road world for capability. The latest in collision prevention options are offered. 14 boiMAG
FIT TIPS
Blazing Guns:
The Barbell Bicep Curl
By Michael Elder
While my more recent articles have discussed larger compound exercises, it is important not to forget about smaller more isolated exercises as well, namely exercises for the arms. The classic barbell bicep curl is one of the simplest yet most effective exercises for the biceps. If you want to seriously increase your gun size, then get on this exercise- now! The major muscle group targeted here is the biceps. The brachialis and the brachioradialis act as synergists for this movement.
The single biggest mistake lifters make on this exercise is arching the lower back to assist in moving the weight up. This is cheating! Your body should remain fixed and only your biceps should be used to move the weight. This means that only the elbow joint should be moving. Another mistake is not keeping the elbows fixed and in at the sides. You should not let your elbows move forward or backward during any portion of this lift.
To perform the exercise: 1. Grasp a barbell or at around shoulder width apart using an underhand grip (palms facing up). 2. Stand straight with your feet together, back straight, and with your arms fully extended. Your knees should be soft (not locked,) your abs tight and your belly button pulled in. Some people prefer to do this exercise in a staggered stance (one foot slightly forward) as it tends to help with stabilization. 3. The bar should not be touching your body. 4. Keeping your elbows tucked in at your sides, slowly curl the bar up. 5. Squeeze your biceps hard at the top of the movement, and then slowly lower the bar back to the starting position.
You need to control the weight throughout 6. Repeat for desired reps. the set. Care should be taken not to “drop� the weight back to the starting position. Rather, the weight should be lowered twice as slowly as it was raised. If you are looking Michael Elder has been working as a fitness to increase your arm strength and gain size, professional in Chicago for the last fifteen years. He comes from a background in gymnastics and is this gem is always one that you should recertified as a personal trainer through the American visit on a regular basis.
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Council on Exercise (ACE). He can be reached directly through his website: www.MichaelElder.com.
iMUSIC
DO YOU WANT TO DANCE?
By Gregg Shapiro
One of the most exciting dance records of 2013, Disclosure’s Settle, has been reissued in an expanded deluxe edition in 2014. Sizzling opener “When A Fire Starts To Burn,” is built on the unlikeliest of samples. Disclosure “shackles” a Soft Cell echo to a soulful dance cut on “Latch,” featuring Sam Smith. “F For You” is the kind of infection you might not mind, while “Stimulation" is a stimulating, if break-neck, workout. “Defeated No More” draws on some of the same retro inspiration as Daft Punk. Speaking of Daft Punk, like its Random Access Memory, Disclosure’s Settle is also an all-star affair, featuring appearances by Eliza Doolittle on “You & Me”, Jamie Woon on“ January” and Jessie Ware on “Confess To Me.” The bonus disc contains the slinky funk of “Together” (with vocals by Sam Smith, again), “F For You” (a version featuring Mary J. Blige) and two others. Mercury Prize-nominees Metronomy has released one of the most varied and surprising albums of the year. The delightful title cut is pure vintage disco and should inspire Metronomy fans to write love letters to the band. “Boy Racers” puts a funky spin on the band’s vintage disco sound, while “Reservoir” kicks in some Kraftwerk. Metronomy performs on Sept.. 12 in Chicago at Lincoln Hall Foster The People drops the ball with a resounding thud on its less than super second album Supermodel. More or less abandoning the dance music vibe that made the band’s 2011 major-label debut
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such a pleasure in favor of a 21st century psychedelic sound. “Best Friend” comes closest to recapturing that dance-floor energy, and if you apply yourself, you could probably find a way to move to “Coming of Age” and “Are You What You Want To Be?” Insistently hetero Canadian electro duo Chromeo continues to perfect its shtick on White Women. The ‘80s-era Prince keyboards, retro disco beats and funky dance bass lines still dominate. But this time they’re calling on cool friends – Vampire Weekend’s Ezra Koenig, Solange and Toro Y Moi – to take their tunes to the next level. Snappy and sexually suggestive, songs such as “Come Alive,” “Over Your Shoulder,” “Play The Fool,” “Somethingood” and “Frequent Flyer” would all fit in well on your summer dance playlist. Gardens & Villa welcome listeners to its swirly and shifting second album Dunes with the dreamy dance of “Domino” before shifting gears and packing the dance-floor with tantalizing “Colony Glen.” The dance party picks up on the chilly “Avalanche,” while “Echosassy” lives up to its name. Free Your Mind, as Cut Copy suggests with the title of its new album, and your booty will follow. To fully experience the mind melting motion of the album explore “We Are Explorers,” follow your feet to “Footsteps,” be sure you have something to wash down “In Memory Capsule,” accept the invitation to “Meet Me In the House of Love” and get elevated with “Take Me Higher.”
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THEATER SCENE Now Playing
Northlight Theatre’s production of “The Commons of Pensacola” by Amanda Peet runs through Oct. 19 at Northlight Theatre, 9501 Skokie Blvd. in Skokie… Theo Ubique will present “A Kurt Weill Cabaret” through Oct. 19 at the No Exit Café, 6970 N. Glenwood… Noelle Krimm gives audiences a seat at the tea party with a re-imagining of her 2004 hit, “Alice” that takes place at eight Andersonville venues, features nine artists, 12 chapters and six rabbits. The show plays Saturday afternoons through Nov. 2 with “tours” beginning at 1 p.m. and leaving every 15 minutes until 2 p.m. The ambulatory, multi-disciplinary theatrical experience starts at The Neo-Futurarium, 5153 N. Ashland as the audience, traveling in groups of 15, follows a white rabbit to various locations throughout the Andersonville neighborhood. Ducking into storerooms and back patios, through bookstores and taverns and galleries, the audience becomes Alice as Andersonville becomes a wonderland. At each stop a chapter of the book is performed by a different Chicago fringe theater company. The locations include: The Neo-Futurarium, Simon's Tavern, The Landmark of Andersonville, Woolly Mammoth Antiques and Oddities, Rad Vintage, George's Ice Cream and Sweets, The Swedish American Museum, and Women and Children First Bookstore.
Up Coming
New American Folk Theater presents the world premiere of a new musical by Chicagoans Rick Karlin and Scott Free, “Witches Among Us” running Thursdays and Fridays Oct. 3 through mid-Nov. at The Call, 1547 W. Bryn Mawr… Next spring, About Face Theater presents the Chicago premiere of Bixby Elliot’s comedy “Abraham Lincoln Was A F*gg*t”, a teen’s touching and hilarious quest to prove the truth behind our 16th President’s sexual orientation… Hell in a Handbag brings back a perennial favorite; “The Birds” just in time for Halloween. They just finished replacing the scenery that Ed Jones chewed up last time he was in the show.
Stage Business
About Face Theatre’s 2nd annual fundraising event, “The Black and Tan Supper Club” on Friday, Oct. 10 аt the InterContinental Hotel will allow partygoers to step back into the golden age of Chicago's Bohemian society. The event is inspired by the 1930s cultural phenomenon known as the “Pansy Craze” and will feature an evening of cocktails, dining and performances. Tickets are available at www.aboutfacetheatre.org or by calling 773.784.8565.
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Chicago's
in the know ... ON THE GO!
By Sue Deaunym
BAR BIZ
Chloe's and Whiskey Trust, which opened just a short couple of months ago, has welcomed aboard the LKH Management team (which also manages Hydrate, Replay, Halsted's, etc.) so now ya know if you see your favorite bartender or DJ at another local, that they haven't jumped ship on you ... Frat houses on campuses across the country are hosting their “rush” parties, so why shouldn’t Touche offer the same thing for folks who want to join a leather or fetish club? That’s just what they’ll do on Friday, Sept. 19, then the next day, they dive headlong into a two-week celebration of Oktoberfest and won’t come up for air until Oct. 5… Funny, they don't look Irish (or as if they suffer from the "Irish Curse".) The O’Halley Brothers is just the stage name for the H-O-T twin Brazilian brothers (who look as if they've had a Brazilian, if you get my drift,) Bachir Mendez Maroff and Fabiano Mendez Maroff, The duo are producers and DJs who are making waves after their recent headlining performance at World Pride in Toronto. They're at Hydrate for one night only, Sept. 5, so you better hustle your ass over there... Forget Throwback Thursdays, I'm all in for Woof Wednesday at Sidetrack with hot men ruling... Speaking of hot men. I can't get enough of D.I.L.F. at SoFo Tap... You know how you sometimes blow your wad (financially speaking) on the weekend, then Monday comes along and you're all like, "I want to go out, but I'm so broke." Quit your complaining and head over to the Rehab lounge for
M7 Mondays, when seven different cocktails, all starting with M, are only $7 each. Let's see if you can name them all; Martini, Mojito... RuPaul's Drag Race star Adore Delano: will appear at Roscoe's on Tuesday, Sept. 16.
WONDERFUL WOMEN
What would we do without the wonderful women in the entertainment industry who love their gay boys and girls.? We've got Margaret Cho at the North Shore Center for Performing Arts in Skokie on Saturday, Sept. 6 ... Local gals (and Broadway stars) Jessie Mueller, Abby Mueller and Karen Mason are in town on Monday, Sept. 22 for the lunch of "Festival of Works in Development," the musical theater incubator at City Winery. Call 312.733.9463 for tickets.
SOCIAL WHIRL
On Wednesday, Sept. 10 meet Mitchell Gold and Bob Williams at a benefit for Chicago House in honor of 25 years. For info go to www.chicagohouse.org... You do have your tix for "Out in the Park" at Six Flags Great America on Saturday, Sept. 13? The event will feature appearances by Lady Bunny, Trannika Rex and Traver Rains... "Reeling" Chicago's GLBT International Film Festival kicks off on Sunday, Sept. 21 at The Music Box Theater... If you've always wanted to strut down the street swinging your big stick, here's your chance. Chicago Spirit Brigade will hold auditions on Sunday, Sept. 14 and 21, go to www.csbstars.com. boiMAG 29
ASK ACE by Ace Magyar
Hopeless on Halsted
I hate myself. All my life I've battled with weight issues. I am so fat that I can't even look at myself in the mirror. The worst part is, I just can't seem to stop myself from eating. I'll be sitting there with a carton of ice cream knowing I shouldn't be eating it, yet I don't stop. I'm always going to start a diet "tomorrow." ...and sometimes I do. I was able to lose 75 pounds, and I felt like a different person. Then my mother got sick and I had to go back home to take care of her. Before I knew it, I gained all the weight back and then some. I'm disgusted with myself. I get depressed and then I jut eat more. I'm at the point where I don't care if I live or die. I just want it to end.
Dear HOH,
You are not just fighting your weight, you're fighting an addiction. You are addicted to food, which in some ways is the hardest addiction to beat. An alcoholic knows that they can't drink or they'll fall off the wagon, a drug addict can stay off drugs, but there's no way to remove food from your life completely. Seek out a therapist who has experience dealing with food addiction issues, I'd also suggest trying to find a chapter of Overeaters Anonymous. Attend meetings regularly and see a nutritionist who can help you devise a plan for healthy eating. Incorporate an exercise plan into your recovery (for that is what this is). If you haven't exercised in a while then start slow, even if that means just parking
a few spaces farther away from the entrance., or getting off the bus one stop earlier. As soon as you feel up to it take a 10 minute walk every day. Then after a week, make it 20 minutes, then another week later make it 30 minutes. Make yourself do it every day no matter how tired you feel or how much you want to skip it. If the weather's bad, walk around a mall. Download an app for your cell phone that will help your track your exercise. Little by little you'll see improvements. Remember, that weight didn't come back overnight and it won't disappear that way either. When you see the weight begin to drop off, start to keep a chart. Be prepared for plateaus and weeks where you only lose half a pound. If you start to feel defeated by that, remind yourself that half a pound is two sticks of butter that you've removed from your body. If you slip up and have a weight gain, don't chuck all the work you've done so far. Just go right back to the healthier habits. Diets rarely work because a diet is not a lifestyle, a healthy eating habit is. Just making a simple switch from sugary soft drinks to, say green tea, would make a noticeable difference after a week or two. If you like oatmeal, then you are in luck. Before you go to bed, put one cup of Steal Cut Oats in a slow cooker, set it on low for 8 hours along with 4 cups of water, then in the morning you'll enjoy a delicious cream-of-wheat breakfast. If you top it off with cinnamon and your favorite fruit, then you will be really doing your body good! You can beat this. You've done it before.
Ace Magyar has a BA in communications, a MA in sex therapy and a PhD in zoology. He is a registered couple’s counselor specializing in the GLBT community. Send your questions to ASK ACE at boieditorial@aol.com
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