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EDITORIAL Mike Macharello: Publisher Rick Karlin: Editor
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photographerS Eamonn Sexton, Ken Brown, KAB Photography
COVER Fall Fashion Collection, 2015
editorial contributors Gregg Shapiro, Parker Carr Sue Deaunym, Anita Taylor, Michael Elder
VIEW boiMAGazine ONLINE AT: www.boiMAG.com BOI Magazine, Inc. Š 2000−2015 All rights reserved
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FA L L FA S H I O N TRENDS • COLOR • FABRICS • CUTS
Beastie Boys Animal prints and fur are all the rage, whether subdued or flagrant. Of course, you’ll go faux, won’t you? It would make Auntie Anita so happy. (Umit Benan, Margaret Howell, Kris Van Assche) Back to Black After a season or two where the color fell out of favor for evening wear, it is back, and stronger than ever. With black from head to toe dominating. (Tom Ford, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Alexander McQueen) Players with Layers Fall and winter has always been about layering, but this season the rules have been upended, with middle layers peeking out from underneath. (Dries Van Norten, Engineered Androgenous looks ruled the runway, such as this tunic from Rick Owens
Garments, Givenchy, Miharayasuhi)
By Anita Taylor Darlings, Auntie Anita is exhausted! London, Paris, Milan, Miami. I have logged more frequent flier miles this season than any other. So let's not waste any time and just look at the trends that will be big in menswear this fall and winter.
Trends
Gender Neutral or as it used to be called, unisex. Flowing garments, skirts (over trousers) and tunics ruled the runways. (Gucci, Loewe, J.W.Anderson) Cut or Uncut? Turtlenecks are cool again. Many designers chose the turtleneck over the traditional shirt and tie, even with formal suits. Creatures Feature (Paul Smith, Dunhill, J.W.Anderson, Calvin Klein)
Dries Van Norten layered a jacket over a tunic and trousers Continued on a following page>> boiMAG
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Fabrics
Velvet (Fendi, Alexander McQueen, Bottega Veneta) Leather (Hermes, Umit Benan, Margiela) Shearling (Burberry Prorsum, Dior Homme, Fendi)
Cut
The ¾ length coat, often oversized (Dior, Lanvin, Dries Van Noten and Wooyoungmi, Ami) Slight flare to trousers or with a baggy fit from waist to hem (Versace, Marni, Raf Simons, Wooyoungmi)
Gym Dandy Dior, yes Dior darling, festooned models with pins galore Pin Me Sigh, yes pins are back. Thankfully, not the tacky brooches from the last go-round. This time they tend to be more of a military or scouting motif. (Dior, Hermes, MSGM,, Yamamoto) Prints Charming Prints, whether oversized or micro, the trend is to go with the look all the way. (Ferragamo, Armani, Paul Smith) To every season there is a... however that quote goes. To every season there are also trends in colors, fabrics and cuts. This season is no different.
Color
Camel (Burburry, Ferragamo, Marc Jacobs, Berluti, Wooyoungmi) Burgundy (Lanvin, Dior Homme, Valentino, Berluti and Alexander McQueen. Grey (Cerrutti, Prada, Bioni, Calvin Klein)
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Designer hoodies, sweat pants and other assorted garments usually seen only in the gym walked the runways. Of course, this attire is always appropriate in the gym, but they can do double duty as casual wear, when worn correctly. Hot and sweaty works in the gym (and boudoir) but not anywhere else. Always make certain that these pieces are clean and presentable. They don’t have to be ironed, but they shouldn’t look as if you slept in them either. Exercise tights are hot, but avoid the lure of parading around your assets and slip a pair of gym shorts over them. Here we trend upon trend from Kenzo; in the foreground a turtleneck worn with a camel suit, and in the background a layered tunic with a patterned coat
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C lo t hing fo r R e al M e n How to Look Your Best by Anita Taylor Let’s face it, few men have the proportions of a male model. There’s nothing wrong with that, it just means that you have to adjust fashion tends to what makes you look best and that is the quintessential difference between fashion and style. You can squeeze yourself into whatever is fashionable at the time (skinny jeans), but you won’t look as good as if you’re wearing a pair of pants with a slimmer cut that fits you correctly. It doesn’t matter what the trends are, pick what suits your body, lifestyle and coloring. If the hot color of the season is yellow, but it washes you out, skip it. Here are a few guidelines to help everyman look stylish, The terms Skinny and Slim are not your friends (unless you happen to be one of those-then go for it). Slim-fit shirts and pants simply weren’t designed with your body type in mind.
tales a look at your purchase to see if there’s enough seam allowance or if the item will respond well to alterations. So long as the item fits in the key areas, everything else can be trimmed, cut or expanded to fit you properly. A good tailor can make a $300 suit look like a $3,000 one.
Be brand or label or designer loyal. When you get a lot of compliments on how good you look, keep in mind what you’re wearing. Notice I said how good you look. You want people to notice Size isn’t everything. In fact, with what you, not your clothes. Shop for the the industry refers to as “vanity sizing” you may vary from brand to brand, label labels that get you compliments more often. Some of the higher end brands to label. Don’t feel bad if you have to buy an extra-large with one designer or simply don’t design for the average male build. You may do better with a need to go down a size with another. lesser known designer, when you do, Sizing isn’t standard anymore. stick with them. Trompe L’oueille, the French art term meaning trick the eye, works in fashion If you’re bigger than average, stay neutral in your color palette. Add a pop as well. We all know that horizontal of color with an accessory. Smaller and stripes will make you look wider and thinner guys can get away with more shorter and vertical stripes taller and vivid hues. A pair of bright yellow pants slimmer (especially thin ones,, like on a small guy can be charming , on pinstripes), but color work just as well. Keeping things monochromatic makes bigger guys, kids might try to ride you to school. you look slimmer and taller. If you’re overly tall, contrasting your shirt or Accentuate the positive, downplay jacket and pants colors will make you those areas that cause you concern. If appear less foreboding, as will a wide with belt in a contrasting color. Got big you’ve got a big ass and are proud of it, wear those turquoise pants. If you’d feet? Match them to the color of your prefer not to advertise the junk in your pants and they won’t look so large. trunk, wear dark pants and a top that hangs a little lower. Find a good tailor who can alter your clothing (even ready to wear) to fit your Continued on following page >> size. Leave the tags on until your tailor boiMAG 13
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Make certain shirts fit well across the shoulders and neck. Sometimes we focus on the front but a tight or loose neck just accentuates your size (or lack, thereof ). You should be able to fit a finger between your neck and the collar of the shirt and there should be no tightness or puckering of material across your chest, shoulders or upper back. If a shirt fits well through the chest and shoulders but there’s excess fabric at the waist or the sleeves are too long, this is where your friendly tailor can help. Trousers should fit comfortably through the thigh and seat. Then take a look in the mirror and see whether or not you need alterations made in the waist or through the leg. For jeans, look for denim mixed with a small percentage of stretchable fabric. We’re not talking about leggings, but just enough give, to fit everywhere comfortably. Instead of numerous cheap pairs, invest in one or two well-made pair and have your tailor make adjustments as necessary.
Suit Yourself
Few American men find that ready to wear suits fit well. Every suit requires some tailoring, but big and tall men will do better at shops specializing in their sizes. The same goes for shorter men. Even if you’re only slightly outside the norm, you’ll do better, and the tailors at these stores tend to be more experienced at making clothes fit clients better. If you’ve got the money, opt for bespoke, custom-made or a made-tomeasure company. Bespoke means that means that a tailor has measured a client and created a unique pattern based on his measurements. Then the tailor or a seamstress hand-cuts and hand-sews the suit to the customer's specifications. Zeglio, with its two U.S. locations in Chicago (306 S. Dearborn and 3341 N. Broadway, there are five other world-wide) makes bespoke suits for little more than you would pay for a “designer” suit off the rack.
Well Suited According to GQ, the following rules now apply to business suits: Blurred Lines Crisp pin-stripes are out, more relaxed chalk-stripes are in. Shrinky Dink Smaller collars with a medium-sized spread are the way to go. Navy Has Sailed The traditional navy blue suit is a bit stodgy, go for a brighter color, such as cobalt. Make A Statement Forget the statement tie, that’s yesterday’s news. Instead go with a bold printed shirt. The Ties That Bind Solid color or muted prints that match or coordinate with your suit, won’t detract from the new bolder shirts you’ll be wearing. Forever Plaid Everyone should have a plaid suit. In order to avoid looking like a sportscaster wear a muted plaid suit (not just a sport coat). Pair it with a lightweight turtleneck and loafer for a casual, yet refined look. boiMAG 15
QMUSIC By Gregg Shapiro
All-female bluegrass quartet Della Mae may have its roots in Boston, but its influences are clearly from south of the Mason-Dixon Line. Still, you have to wonder if a bluegrass band from Tennessee or Kentucky or Mississippi would have the smarts to write and sing a modern union anthem such as “Boston Town”? The members of Della Mae not only elevate the art of bluegrass simply by being women in a male-dominated genre, they also prove themselves to be gifted performers and songwriters. Original tunes on their eponymous album such as “Can’t Go Back” and “Take One Day” have potential classic written all over them.
Della Mae to Delta Rae (and a few in between)
Way back in the mid-1980s, Dwight Yoakam and Steve Earle were at the forefront of the modern country sound of the era. Both men released albums in 1986 – Guitar Town by Earle and Guitars, Cadillacs, Etc. by Yoakam – that would shake up the country music establishment. Nearly 30 years later, Yoakam and Earle have both returned with new albums. Yoakam’s Second Hand Heart opens with “In Another World,” a song that invents a new musical genre – beach country. Seriously, just listen to those harmonies. Yoakam goes on to conjure Elvis on “Dreams of Clay” and revive classic country on “Off Your Mind.” His cover of Anthony Crawford’s “V’s of Birds” is a soaring tearjerker. No two ways about it, Terraplane, credited to Steve Earle & The Dukes, is a full-on country blues assault. What saves it from being just another boring blues kvetch and whine fest is Earle’s talent as a lyricist, especially on song such as “Ain’t Nobody’s Daddy Now” and “Baby’s Just As Mean As Me.”
All but abandoning their modern Nashville-by-way-of-North Carolina sound, sextet Delta Rae (including Speaking of bluegrass, Ed Helms is siblings Eric, Ian and Brittany more than just a gifted comic actor Holjes) returns after three years with on TV (“The Office”) and in movies its second album After It All. Opening (the “Hangover” series). He’s also a with the stadium-sized “Anthem,” the talented songwriter and musician as band continues on its daring new he demonstrates with his bluegrass path with the invigorating “Run.” band The Lonesome Trio on their “Outlaws” includes a brass section eponymous Sugar Hill debut disc. “giving the finger to death himself” Helms, who plays guitar and banjo, and and the operatic vocal on “Scared” is band-mates Ian Riggs (bass) and Jacob a soothing as it is haunting. A storm Tilove (mandolin) have been playing whistles through “Chasing Twisters,” together since they were in college at the first of the songs to have a Oberlin. The 12 original tunes, including distinctive country edge to it. The the prescient “Asheville City Skyline,” country vibe is also strong in songs the warm “Whiskey Drink” and “Rising including “Dead End Road,” “Cold Day Tide of Love” are all reasons to keep In Heaven,” “The Meaning of It All” company with The Lonesome Trio. and “My Whole Life Long.”
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Motor Mouth Doggie Style By Parker Carr When you take your dog for a car ride, do you make sure he or she is buckled up? You should. A quick stop or an accident can harm your dog. There are numerous harnesses and travel crates, but how effective are they? The Center for Pet Safety (CPS) partnered with Subaru, to run tests on restraints, crates and carriers using a test stimulant (aka a stuffed animals the size and weight of various breeds). All tests used the cables provided by the manufacturer The good news is that there are some very reliable products on the market. CPS’ top-performing crate for 2015 is the Gunner Kennels G1 Intermediate with 8’ tie down straps, and there was a tie for top-performing carrier between the PetEgo Forma Frame Jet Set Carrier with ISOFIX-Latch Connection and the Sleepypod Mobile Pet Bed with PPRS Handilock. The bad news is there are also some very crappy products being sold that do absolutely nothing for pets during collisions. CPS tested the Snoozer Roll Around, which claims to be “crash tested”. Upon impact the dog dummy was launched out of the carrier when the stitching failed around the front mesh panel of the carrier. Following the test, CPS reached out to Snoozer (via email and via phone call) to request test evidence. The manufacturer did not respond to either the email or the phone message left on the company president’s voice mail system. Similarly Midwest Wire Kennel with rubber anchor straps, slid forward directly into the seatback. The crate was severely deformed on impact. Among other kennels which failed the test are; 4Pets Proline, MIM Variocage and Ruff Tuff. Restraint systems didn’t fare much better. When CPS first tested restraints in 2011, slow-motion videos indicated low likelihood of survivability for the animal due to choking and/or other bodily harm when harness
materials cinched tightly upon impact. Furthermore, the tests indicated that there was great danger to humans and property damage to the vehicle from a projectile animal. Since the original test, a new harness was developed that keeps pets safe, The Sleepypod Clickit Sport.
CPS offers the following tips for
traveling with your dog in your car: •
Select a quality crash-tested harness to protect your pet and also protect your family if an accident occurs.
•
Do not use of long extension tethers and zip line style products during travel.
•
Dogs should be reined in during car travel. Allowing pets to put their heads out of the car window is dangerous for many reasons. While your dog’s ears flapping in the wind might be funny – road debris in his eyes can be painful and costly.
•
Don’t “buckle up” your pet’s carrier unless the manufacturer provides a crash test video to illustrate structural integrity. Using a seatbelt to secure a carrier can actually crush the carrier if you get into an accident. For more information go to: www.centerforpetsafety.org. boiMAG 21
By Rick Karlin Reeling, the secondoldest LGBTQ+ film festival in the world showcases the diversity of queer experience, takes place Sept. 17-24. From the hilarious gay dude comedy “Fourth Man Out” on opening night, to Natalia Meta’s erotic, queer-tinged crime thriller from Argentina “Death In Buenos Aires” on closing night, the 33rd edition of Reeling has something to satisfy every cinephile. Festival centerpieces include the hotly anticipated real-life drama “Freeheld” starring Julianne Moore and Ellen Page and director Roland Emmerich’s already controversial chronicle of the burgeoning gay rights movement in “Stonewall”. The opening night bro comedy “Fourth Man Out” will be attended by the film's stars Evan Todd (“Heathers: the Musical” and ABC Family's “Switched at Birth”) and Kate Flannery Meredith on NBC's “The Office”, Second City and Annoyance Theatre). A red carpet reception precedes the Thursday-night screening at Music Box Theatre, 3733 N. Southport. Friday's world premiere of the noir “Kiss Me Kill Me” features “Queer as Folk” star Gale Harold in his first gay role since QAF. The film's stars Jai Rodriguez (“Queer Eye for the Straight Guy”) and Shangela (“RuPaul's Drag Race”) will join filmmaker Casper Andreas at the Landmark Century, 2828 N. Clark Street, for a post-show Q&A. The eagerly awaited period drama “Stonewall”, set against the backdrop of Greenwich Village's Stonewall Inn and the
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ignition of the gay civil rights movement in 1969 – makes its Chicago premiere on Sunday, Sept. 20 at the Landmark. The film's stars, Jonny Beauchamp (“Penny Dreadful”) and Jeremy Irvine (“War Horse”) will be in attendance for a Q&A following the film. Lionsgate's hotly anticipated real-life drama “Freeheld”, written by Ron Nyswaner, makes its Chicago premiere on Monday, Sept. 21. Nyswaner, the Oscar®-nominated screenwriter of Philadelphia, will be in attendance to discuss the true story of a lesbian police officer (Julianne Moore) fighting to leave her pension to her life partner (Ellen Page) when she is stricken with terminal cancer. Nyswaner will also attend the Chicago premiere of his documentary directorial debut “She's The Best Thing In It”, about legendary stage actress Mary Louise Wilson (“Grey Gardens”). Wilson will join Nyswaner for a presentation and Q&A following the screening. Additional visiting filmmakers include: co-directors Dylan Hansen-Fliedner and Dane Mainella who will discuss their minimalist, semi-autobiographical musical drama “Driving Not Knowing” and Boston filmmaker Erica Tremblay “In the Turn”. Other filmmakers attending screenings of their films include Joseph Graham and Bill Parker “Beautiful Something”, Philipp Karner “Like You Mean It”, and Billy Clift and David Millbern “Hush Up Sweet Charlotte”. Reeling will present nearly 40 features and more than 60 short films from around the world, the majority of them Chicago premieres. The festival’s opening night presentation returns to the Music Box Theatre and to the Landmark Century Centre Cinema for the bulk of the festival. The fest’s home base, Chicago Filmmakers, will also host screenings as will The Comfort Station in Logan Square. For tickets and more information call 773.293.1447 or go to www.reelingfilmfestival.org. The full schedule of films and events can be found on the website as well.
FIT TIPS
FIRE THOSE ABS:
The Stability Ball Crunch
By Michael Elder
Over the years, there has been great speculation about abdominal training and whether or not it is really necessary. It is true that many larger compound exercises such as squats and lunges activate the abdominals as synergistic muscle groups. However, it is my opinion that the abdominals should also be isolated by doing specific exercises that target them.
To perform the exercise: • Begin in seated position; roll out until lower back is resting comfortably on ball.
• Place feet flat on floor, shoulderwidth apart. • Position hands behind head to support its weight or across the chest, elbows pointing directly out to sides.
Please be aware that performing abdominal exercises does not eliminate abdominal fat. In order to do that, you must be following an appropriate diet as well as performing resistance training for the entire body. However, isolating the abdominals will increase their strength as well as help to correct certain postural deviations. It will also greatly enhance the rest of your training as abdominals are activated in many compound movements, as I mentioned before. One classic exercise that effectively trains the abdominals is the Stability Ball Crunch. This exercise is ideal because it provides a cushion for the spine and also greatly recruits the transverse abdominus muscle due to the unstable nature of the ball. As you progress with this exercise and become stronger, you may increase difficulty by
• Raise head even with torso and gaze straight up. • On an exhale, slowly curl torso forward, flexing middle and upper abs and raise chest upward toward pelvis. Allow head to follow chest. Do not force or pull head forward. Allow abs to do the work. • Raise chest until you feel abs completely contracted. • Release slowly, allowing head and chest to drop back down to torso level or slightly beyond. • Repeat until your abs reach fatigue.
positioning the ball lower on the back, allowing for a greater range of motion on the “lowering” phase. The nature of the ball allows you to extend beyond what you would normally be able to do on the floor. However, I would not rush this progression. Take your time and use caution. It is possible to strain the lower back if you are not careful. All in all, this is one of the best abdominal exercises that there is. So what are you waiting for? Go fire those abs!
Michael Elder has been working as a fitness professional in Chicago for the last 15 years. He has a background in gymnastics and is certified as a personal trainer through the American Council on Exercise (ACE). He can be contacted directly through his website, www.MichaelElder.com.
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Beach, Please! By Gregg Shapiro
The arrival of gay filmmaker François Ozon’s “The New Girlfriend”, based on a novel by Ruth Rendell (who died in May of this year), couldn’t possibly be better timed. After all, 2015 is the year of trans chic, with Vanity Fair cover girl Caitlyn Jenner, as well as Transparent, Becoming Me and I Am Jazz on TV, and The Danish Girl scheduled to open in theaters in time for the winter holidays. Best friends since they were seven years old when they became “blood sisters,” Claire (Anaïs Demoustier) and Laura (Isild Le Besco) were even bridesmaids at each others’ weddings. Laura and husband David (Romain Duris) started a family first, making Claire a godmother to baby Lucie. But shortly after Lucie’s birth, Laura takes ill and soon dies. It’s hard to say who’s more devastated, Claire or David. Claire’s empathetic husband Gilles (Raphaël Personnaz) does what he can to make her mourning process as comfortable for her as possible. In an attempt to get back in the swing of things, Claire goes for a run, during which she finds herself at David and Laura’s front door. Her knock goes unanswered, but when she hears Lucie crying she lets herself in and then gets the surprise of her life. David is sitting on the couch in a blonde wig, full make-up and one of Laura’s dresses feeding the baby. Both are understandably uncomfortable at first. David lets Claire in on his secret, of which he says that Laura was well aware. Before you can say “ultimate makeover,” Claire and David, whom Claire nicknames Virginia after a favorite hotel, become partners in David’s transformation. Claire and Virginia go shopping together at a mall. Claire gives Virginia make-up, hair and general
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style tips. Following the devastating loss of Laura, Claire is happy to have a new girlfriend and Virginia is happy to oblige. Things get considerably more complicated. David is trans, not gay, and finds himself attracted to Claire, which puts an added strain on the relationship. Claire finds herself caught in a lie to Gilles involving David/Virginia and only makes matters worse when trying to tell the truth. “The New Girlfriend” has the kinds of twists and turns one might expect of a movie based on a book by thriller/mystery writer Rendell, including a major surprise ending. The performances are all solid and believable. Ultimately, the movie belongs to Duris, whose nuanced portrayal of David/Virginia is in a class all by itself! Brava diva/divo! In French with subtitles. (opens Sept. 25 at the Landmark Century.)
Chicago's
in the know
By Sue Deaunym
Bar Talk
Touché kicks off its Oktoberfest celebration on Thursday, Sept. 19 with a gear-fetish party, which is followed by the “Ripe” full moon party with DJ Intellect and winds up the weekend of Oct. 3 with a Okto”bear”fest on Saturday followed by a Sunday beer bust with Berghoff’s drafts for a buck and a bratwurst buffet. Wait, isn’t Touché always a sausage buffet?… If you love beer, you should become a Crew Beer God. Sign up for a beer passport (it’s only $5) and you have one year to drink every beer Crew offers (Hell I can do that in a night!). If you can do that, you get your picture on the bar’s wall and web site as part of its Beer God Gallery, a t-shirt telling the world you are a Beer God and some invites to special events. Check at the bar for more information… Come on down and pet all the furry animals at SoFo Tap on Saturday, Sept. 19 during the Otter party… Congrats to Windy City Times which celebrates the 30th anniversary of the founding of the paper by Jeff McCourt. Current publisher Tracy Baim and folks invite you to join them at Sidetrack on Sunday, Sept. 27… Are you ready to be "Served" by DJ Escape at Circuit on Sept. 26?... See your favorite boy bartenders transformed into drag queens at Roscoe’s“Boyz2Women: Drag'd Around the World” on Monday, Sept. 21. The event, with special guests Michelle Visage and Katya from “RuPaul's Drag Race”, is a benefit for Illinois Safe Schools Alliance.
Street Talk
If you see more hot knights in black leather walking the streets beginning Thursday, Sept. 17, it’s because the Onyx Midwest “Blackout XX” is going on. The international leather club for men of color 20th anniversary celebration and gathering runs through Sunday, Sept. 20 with events all around town… Lakeview’s Tacofest takes
... ON THE GO!
place on Sept. 19 and 20 on Southport from Addison to Roscoe. A week later, Sept. 27 it’s the Edgewater 5k Run… The AIDS Run/Walk is on Sept. 27… Champaign-Urbana holds its Pride Fest Sept. 19-20… The White Party’s “White Splash” pool party at the Aloft South Beach on Saturday, Nov. 28 will benefit the World Outgames, which will be held in Miami in 2017. .. Art lovers will flock to Expo Chicago at Navy Pier, Sept. 17-20... All I want for Christmas is the ginger in the Squirt ad on the facing page. If you close the magazine he lays on my article, but I'd rather have him sit on my face.
Stage Business
Hell in a Handbag has done it again. David Cerda's "Scream, Queen, Scream is packing them in at Mary's Attic. The show runs through Halloween, appropriately... Chicago’s own Lani Hall and her hubby, Herb Alpert, perform at City Winery on Thursday, Oct. 1. You can bet a lot of former Albany Park folks will be there… Margaret Cho brings “The psyCHO Tour” to the Chicago Theater on Saturday, Oct. 3. Can we take a moment here to congratulate Margaret on being the only part of the new “Fashion Police” that doesn’t suck? Who told Melissa Rivers that she belonged in front of a camera? In front of a truck, maybe!... GayCo celebrates the legalization of gay marriage with a 50 week review, “50 States of Gay”, focused on the states of the union. Starting with Massachusetts, each week the audience will select a different state from a hat, and that state will become the theme for the next show. The cast will then have one week to create original content based on that state. The show opens Saturday Sept. 19 at Under the Gun Theater… About Face Theatre presents its 3rd annual “Black & Tan Supper Club” gala on Friday, Oct. 9, at the InterContinental Chicago. The party is inspired by jazz joints and supper clubs of yesteryear and celebrates About Face Theatre’s 20th anniversary. boiMAG 29