Maintenance guide

BØJ SØ

døre & vinduer a/s

Maintenance guide - as well as information for installment.

Congratulations on your new windows and doors Please read this guide.

It contains many good tips and useful information.

IMPORTANT! Save this manual!

For later inquiries to the factory, the following data must be provided:

Order No.: ___ Delivery week/year: Color of the products: _

Manufacturer: Bøjsø døre & vinduer A/S Højagervej 5-7, 6623 Vorbasse Tel.: 75 33 33 44. Fax.: 75 33 37 73 E-mail: post@boejsoe.dk Website: www.boeisoe.dk

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DANISH WINDOW PANE VERIFICATION

Coupled windows Lubrication: Coupled windows are usually supplied as side hung windows with galvanized lift-off hinges. The hinges should be lubricated once a year with acid-free oil or with plastic grease. Lithium grease lasts longer, which means that it has advantages in coastal areas where sea fog and salt are more wearing on the fittings. If the windows are delivered with corner bracket hinges with a pinned or a mortised receiver for corner bracket, these must be lubricated once a year with lithium grease.

Cleaning: When cleaning the glass between frames, the interior and exterior frames are separated from each other in the following way: The window frames are opened. On the hinge side, there are 2 or 3 magnetic catches. By gently pulling them, the frames come apart from one another. NB: For coupled doors, magnets for coupled sash are used that open with a push! The frames are hinged together along the opposite side. After cleaning, the two frames are pressed together and now function as one frame once again.

The coupled frames are designed with l1/2-2 mm air between the frames. This ensures that condensation does not occur between the frames. This also means that only a little dust and like can get between the window panes. This does not apply if you have chosen a solution with Bøjsø's diffusion-open tape between the frames, where the need for cleaning is reduced significantly. It should be expected that the frames must be opened and cleaned once a year, depending on the placement of the house, wind and weather, etc.

If condensation or moisture occurs between the frames, the casement fasteners must be tightened until the casement fasteners are finger tight.

(Fig. 1). Then check if the inner frame is pressed tightly against the sealing strips . This is done by pulling a piece of paper between the frame and casement while the window is closed. If you feel resistance, the seal is in order.

Magnetic Magnet for coupled sash Coupled windows

Adjustment of casement fasteners

Coupled windows - seen from the inside.

Opened for cleaning between frames.

Adjustment and lubrication of double glazed windows Side hung windows: The casement fasteners can be adjusted by tightening or loosening the hook screw (Fig. 1) The windows are delivered with galvanized lift-off hinges that once a year should be lubricated with acid-free oil or with lithium grease. The latter keeps significantly longer. (Fig. 2) Window fittings: If the window is delivered with a friction stay, this must be lubricated with acid-free oil at least once a year. Adjusting for adequate friction can be achieved by adjusting the screw located in the friction slide, which moves back and forth within the rail.

(Fig. 3) Fully reversible side-hung sash.

Fully reversible side-hung sashes must have its moving parts as well as the riveting of the bracket lubricated.

Fig. 3

Projecting top hung windows and pivot windows: Projecting top hung windows: The slide should not be lubricated, but kept clean of dirt and paint. The friction can be adjusted by turning the screws in the friction block.

(Fig. 4) Espagnolette locks in the bottom as well as the riveted connection in the fitting is lubricated with acid-free oil once a year.

(Fig. 5) Pivot windows.

Adjustment and lubrication like projecting top hung windows. It is particularly important with lubrication and adjustment of the rotating window hinge as the window will not otherwise work perfectly.

(Fig. 6)

Fig. 4

Front and patio doors Front doors: Operation of the lock: The front doors from Bøjsø come with a Fix 3-point shutting. In order to ensure a perfect shutting and better burglary protection, the door lock is constructed so that the door handle raised 45 degrees before the door can be locked. This feature means that the door is shut in 4 points incl. locking pawl. The lock must be lubricated with acid-free oil at least once a year.

Hinges: The doors are delivered with 3-4 galvanized lift-off hinges.

Hinges should be lubricated with acid-free oil, lubricant spray or lithium grease at least once a year Strike plate: Q In order to ensure a perfect seal, it must be expected that the strike plate must be adjusted. Some strike plates can be adjusted as shown on Fig. 1. Other types must first be removed, after which the pawl can be bent and the strike plate remounted.

Patio doors: Patio doors must be lubricated and adjusted like front doors . However, patio doors do not have the same features in the lock case. The lock is only to be used with an espagnolette handle.

As a default, a grip is mounted on the inner side. The sliding door brake at the top of the door should be kept clean of dirt and paint and must not be lubricated. The brake is handle controlled, meaning that when the grip is turned while the door is open, the door is held in the desired position.

The door can only be opened around 90 degrees due to the brake.

If the door is to open more than 90 degrees, the brake must be dismantled!

Double doors: The standing part is held by a barrel bolt in the top and the bottom. The barrel bolt has a gear in a PVC bushing in the top and lower frame. This bushing can rotate so that the door can be wedged more or less against the sealing strip.

Coupled patio doors: Coupled patio doors must be lubricated and adjusted according to the same principle as described above.

In order to separate the frames from each other, the magnets for coupled sash in the front of the door must be pressed lightly.

(Fig. 2) Important!

Avoid damage due to moisture - open the window!

The air in an apartment/a house can quickly become too humid as a result of e.g. cooking, washing, bathing and watering of potted plants. The humid air can cause moisture damage (mold spots) and other harmful effects (dust mites).

Many believe that an apartment “ventilates itself”, but this is rarely the case. The residents must therefore make sure that there is adequate airing out in order to remove the moisture that arises in the apartment.

In modern buildings, a mechanical ventilation system is normally found that removes the air from the kitchen and bathroom through an exhaust vent in or near the ceiling.

These must be kept open and clean in order for them to be effective. Fresh air vents are also often found in or near windows. The air comes from here, which is later sucked out through the kitchen and bath. These vents should always be kept open. in the living quarters In older buildings with “window vents” - small ventilation windows - it can be necessary to always have them ajar to get enough fresh air.

B. —

Although one must save on heat, the eagerness to save should not lead to humid indoor air and poor air quality.

Fortunately, heating of reasonable amounts of fresh air does not cost huge amounts of money.

Few problems with moisture arise if all rooms are kept somewhat uniformly heated.

In newly built apartments/houses, construction moisture may occur. Therefore, ventilate as much as possible during the first year after moving into a new apartment/new house.

Window replacement or placing sealing strips on doors or windows can make an apartment so airtight that there is a need for more ventilation than before.

Especially where people smoke, it is a good idea to always keep fresh air vents open or let “window vents” remain ajar.

Also, contact the caretaker or inspector immediately if problems with moisture occur. Issues are easier to resolve if action is taken immediately.

REMEMBER: A GOOD INDOOR ENVIRONMENT REQUIRES GOOD VENTILATION.

REMEMBER: CONTINUE AIRING OUT UNTIL THERE ISN’T ANY MIST WINDOWS. □ Air ON out aTHE few times a day or use the air ventilation that may exist.

C If the windows start to mist, ensure more ventilation r Do not completely shut off the heat in rooms that are not used.

L'. Do not place wardrobes and large furniture up against the outer wall - the air in the room must be able to circulate behind them, otherwise this may lead to moldy spots on the wall.

□ Air out and make sure that the bedding is aired every morning.

D Flip the mattresses from time to time.

O Do not leave the bedroom completely unheated. □ If the windows mist up, allow for better airing to the outside or to the other rooms of the dwelling.

■MHMHHBBA

in bathrooms

□ Never block or shut the vent or exhaust duct.

Open the exhaust duct wide or let the kitchen vent or extractor fan run on full blast during cooking. □ Place a lid on the pots and pans during cooking so that too much humidity is not released into the kitchen. □ Air out during and after cooking.

□ Never block or shut the vent or exhaust duct. □ Avoid as much as possible doing laundry and especially the drying of clothes in the apartment - but if this cannot be avoided, then use the bathroom and ensure that there is good ventilation. □ Air out thoroughly after bathing.

Emission of hot and humid air from the dryer should be directed outside.

Maintenance guide for Bøjsø products Products without surface treatment: All elements are 2-ØKO base treated in accordance with DVC/VSO technical provisions that meet EN-152 requirements against mildew. Products without surface treatment must be painted within 30 days of delivery for it to retain the warranty. - We recommend 1 time of priming with an oil-based product, e.g. Larco Super Secu.

Following this, intermediate sanding must occur with grit size 240. - After 24 hours, it may be further treated with Larco Super Secu finish (oil based), Flügger window paint or Larco DK-5. - This treatment must be applied twice.

There must be color pigments in the paint for the exterior due to the UV radiation of the sun.

As an alternative to the above, one can naturally use other products, e.g. Gori products.

For future maintenance, one doesn’t need to use primers, but one must expect to paint approximately every 6-7 years (it is an advantage to give two coats when painting as this provides longer durability).

Sealing strips, fittings and product labels should not be painted.

Pre-painted products: Bøjsø uses Aquatop painting from Teknos in Vamdrup. Aquatop is water soluble. This is a 2 step treatment with 1 x priming and 1 x spray painting - with a total layer thickness of minimum 80 microns in the dry film.

This provides longer durability of approximately 6-7 years depending on the placement of the product.

However, it must be expected that the bottom glazing beads as well as visible end pieces are inspected more frequently.

Touch up painting: Must be done with Aquatop with the same color code and sheen as delivered in order to achieve a uniform color. Bøjsø delivers an accompanying small repair can. For finishing, please refer to the above section regarding this.

Resin leakage: It is generally recommended that resin and knots are repaired after about11/2 years. Most resin lumps can be removed by rubbing and polishing the surface with a wet wipes and then polishing with a dry cloth. The more extreme areas such as knots and the like where resin seepage has damaged the surface film, loose paint should be scraped off. This is followed by light sanding and finally, two coats of Aquatop or the equivalent as described in the previous section. We provide a can of repair paint with delivery of new products.

Future maintenance: After 6-7 years when the elements need to be painted, it is usually enough to treat on the exterior side as well as the frame rebates and casement edges. The products must be cleaned of any loose paint and lightly sanded.

It should then be painted 1-2 times with e.g. Larco DK-5 "Flügger’s window paint" or a similar product with regard to the above section on this. The treatment should be done approximately every 6 or 7 years. We do not recommend the use of industrial paint for the finish, since it is developed for spray treatment, and therefore is difficult to apply with a brush. Mahogany doorsteps are treated with clear cold-pressed linseed oil with fungicide or hardwood oil 1-2 times each year. Larco products can be purchased directly from Larco. Gori can be purchased at hardware stores and Flügger can be purchased at paint dealers. The woodwork can be washed beneficially once a year with a waxy car shampoo.

Remember that fittings, locks and the like should be lubricated with acid-free oil annually, while door and window hinges may be given a layer of lithium grease since it lasts longer than oil. See also page 2, 3 and 4 of this guide The expected outcome of industrial coatings: Since wood is a natural material where marks of weathering and other structural variations do occur, irregularities may arise in the surface. Especially in light colors, live knots, imperfection and crease formations may occur around knots. Also, resin seepage can provide an uneven surface in the form of bumps or drops, randomly distributed on the products.

System treatment occurs before the installation of fittings and sealing strips so that all surfaces are treated.

However, please note that glazing beads are fitted with a nail gun, which gives small visible nail holes in the surface.

Information regarding glass and cleaning of glass Regarding double glazed windows All double glazed windows are delivered by a manufacturer that is a member of GS (association of manufacturers of double glazing) where the windows are checked in accordance to DS 1094.0 . The double glazed windows are fitted with a weatherstrip in the interior and with EPDM rubber band in the exterior, which provides optimal protection against water ingress around glazing beads. This is done by passing a razor blade/utility knife between the band and the glass.

If it is possible without affecting the band, the glazing bead is pressed into place and nailed. It is important not to let water seep into the bottom rim. From 1. January 2006, double glazing units will be energy labeled in accordance to applicable requirements. All coated windows will also be labeled.

Cleaning the glass in general: For general cleaning of windows, use water containing detergent with the same amount as in dish washing.

It is good for the paint if the painted surfaces are washed with water mixed with car shampoo with waxing approximately once a year. The paint becomes as a result more stain resistant.

Cleaning of glass on coupled windows: The inner pane is installed with glue and sealing strips. Any glue residue that must be removed is easily cut with the attached utility knife. First cut along the wooden frame, holding the knife blade at a slight angle to avoid damage to the paint and pull the knife along the glass. Push the knife blade out so that it bends a little as this makes the work easier. Unfortunately, we cannot remove these glue residues at the factory as it does not harden immediately.

Cleaning the outer glass: The putty used contains linseed oil, and the oil residue on the windows come from this. In order to absorb these oil residues, a thin layer of chalk is applied. Please note that caution should be exercised when cleaning the glass in the first 3-4 months, since the putty hardens slowly. The chalk residue is removed easily by brushing and cleaning with soapy water. Grease stains can be removed with turpentine.

Important: Windows with 1 layer of low E glass has a coating cast into the glass, which makes the glass a little rough on the surface (on the side facing between the frames). This coating can be dulled if metal objects are rubbed against it. It does not damage the glass with regard to the energy saving effect, but visually may be a nuisance. Any paint blobs, etc. are removed with a utility knife, but avoid scraping with the knife.

Regarding putty: The putty used is specially designed for Bøjsø's coupled windows. The putty has been tested at the Danish Technological Institute with very good results. The test shows tremendous durability without issues, and a lot better than other types of putty we have tested. However, the putty has the disadvantage that minor crease formation may occur on the surface. These may be sanded before painting if so desired, but not before approximately 6 months. The putty is coated after 6 months, but this is first required after 6-7 years, when windows/doors must be painted. This achieves a perfect putty rebate, which can last for many years. Claims regarding impressions in the putty will only be recognized if the claim is made upon receipt of the product. There will be putty, silicone and chalk residue on the outside and inside of the glass. This must be removed through cleaning after delivery. Bøjsø does not have the possibility to remove this before the delivery partly due to the period of the hardening process.

Receipt of goods and storage: Unloading and handling of the products must be done in an appropriate manner. The putty in coupled windows is soft on delivery, and therefore one must show extreme caution when handling the products and when cleaning the glass for the next 4-6 months after delivery. On receipt, the products should be checked for any damages and whether the delivery is consistent with the supply agreement. Any transportation damages must be added to the consignment note in order for it to be eligible for claims. If there are any other defects or deficiencies, notification must be given immediately to the supplier or directly to Bøjsø. If there are visible defects, the installation must not commence before the complaint is filed. The products must be protected against rain and dirt. Labels and cork pieces of the glass are removed most easily within the first 1-2 weeks.

General information about the installation: A proper installation is important for the functioning and service life of the products.

Installation: Consequently, the work should The casement by is normally placed in experience the structural be performed professionals with opening with a uniform installing gap by the side and top frame.

The the gapglass should windows and doors.

Upon delivery, will be approx. normally be12 mm. The hinge side must inserted vertically installed. in For larger products, the glass is both directions andThe theglass unit is held by should be delivered unfixed. installation wedges/distance tools so that the units are vertically done in aligned accordance to the GS Glass Fitting Instructions. and horizontal. When the hinge side is firmly screwed, the window frame/door frame is hung in the casement, which is fine-adjusted until there is an even appearance. It must be checked that the circulation of air between the casement and frame is even. Following that, the last vertical casement is screwed into place.

For brick work, self-tapping casement screws 90-125 mm are used, which are drilled through the frame rebate and into the brick work. This ensures the fixation between the wall and the frame, since the wedging can be removed.

If ordinary plugs/dowels are used, there must be a wedge for each screw. 2-4 screws are used for each vertical casement, and there

must never be over 90 cm between each screw.

There must be installed a permanent wedge under each vertical side frame and under the mullion. Doorsteps must also supported in the middle. For window products wider than 120 cm, the lower frame must likewise be supported and secured. Products with arched top frames must have permanent wedges by the transition from straight to arched frame. For doors, there should be a permanent wedge behind the strike plate, primarily for burglary resistance.

Stuffing and sealing: The work on the joint (caulking) is performed as described for the relevant project. Information can also be obtained from the Danish joint trade’s information service FSO. Here, we provide information on our instructions that can be used when sealing. First, the gap between the wall and the casement is stuffed with mineral wool batting or tar as backer rod. It must be filled from the inside and up to 3-4 cm from the edge of the casement, but must not be stuffed so hard that the casement is pressed out.

Elastic joints: When sealing with an elastic joint, a foam strip is inserted as a backstop into the mortar joint groove on the sill, allowing for better handling of the joint sealant. An elastic joint is inserted with a depth of minimum 8-10 mm and to the front frame. The sealant is glazed with sealant profile tool soaked in soapy water.

Mortar pointing: If you want a more diffusion-open joint, this can be jointed with mortar. In this sealing, foam strips must not be inserted as it is important that the mortar is pressed and filled into the entire mortar groove. This ensures that the joint does not fall out.

The mortar joint should therefore be approximately 25-30 mm deep. The mortar joint may be a ready made jura limestone mortar mixed with water for a suitable consistency. It must be thoroughly stirred before use. One can mix fiber in the mortar, but it is not essential if the above depth of the joint is observed. The interior joint should be the most diffusion resistant, and can done with an acrylic sealant, which can be painted.

Under the lower frame, the mortar joint is pulled at least 10 mm back.

Alternatively, an elastic joint must be used.