Ciao, Roma!

Rome is a bit of a mess—in the best possible way. This massive city is full of crazy drivers, spectacular architecture, ancient ruins, savoury street pizza and gelato so rich and creamy, Sarah Treleaven ponders how anyone can stand to live anywhere else.

The Vatican stands guard just beyond the Ponte Sant’Angelo.

Stopping for a sip in Rome’s Trastevere neighbourhood.

Take a walk in the Italian capital’s most colourful neighbourhoods

TREASURE HUNT

Borghetto Flaminio flea market is held on Sundays near Piazza del Popolo, and you’ll find vintage leather goods, clothing, glassware, clocks, watches and many other previously loved items. Piazza della Marina, 32

THE BROOKLYN OF ROME

Try Trastevere for its mix of sunny piazzas, second-hand bookstores, artisanal craft shops and pretty vine-covered buildings. At dusk, the metal shutters lift to reveal myriad drinking and dining options, many of which attract Rome’s beautiful people.

TAKE IT TO THE RIVER

The pretty Basilica di San Bartolomeo all’Isola sits on a tiny island in the middle of the Tiber River, and is well worth a visit to see its ornate interior. Be sure to cross on the north side of the river via the lovely little footbridge, Pons Fabricius—the oldest Roman bridge in the city. sanbartolomeo.org

A hearty bowl of beans with pork rind from Trattoria Armando.

Pasta isn’t the only thing on the menu

ART OF THE APERITIVO

Mimì e Cocò is a great place to observe Italy’s wonderful aperitivo tradition, which melds the heavenly combination of discount drinks and snacks. (There are few more life-affirming combinations than an Aperol spritz or glass of Prosecco and a bowl of salty potato chips.) mimiecoco.com

A CERTAIN NOTORIETY

A tiny old-school trattoria, Armando al Pantheon has a date-night vibe. Expect a mix of locals and tourists (the word is out on this place), and classic Roman dishes like saltimbocca (veal, ham and sage cooked in white wine). Reserve far in advance. armandoalpantheon.it

MEAT CUTE

Just steps from the Pantheon, L’Antica Salumeria is basically a small cave filled with cured meats—and it’s just as glorious as that sounds. Stop here for souvenirs, but mostly for delectable sandwiches (that can be consumed on the steps of the monument just outside its doors). anticasalumeriapantheon.business.site

YOUR NEW LOCAL

Al Vino Al Vino is the kind of wine bar every neighbourhood in the world could use: It’s elegant without being fussy, offers a wide range of small plates for snacking and has a superb selection of Italian wines. Show up here before or after dinner (or just ride out the evening chatting with the very friendly wait staff). Via dei Serpenti, 19

GET IN LINE

Prepare yourself for the lineups that often form in front of La Carbonara long before it opens for dinner. True, there are many wonderful places to eat in Rome, but this place is undeniably charming with its exposed brick, dark wood furniture and, yes, rich and creamy spaghetti carbonara. The deep-fried artichoke, a classic dish of the Jewish-Roman community, is a must. lacarbonara.it

Italian fashion purveyors like Aspesi have a knack for timeless chic.

From food to fashion, Rome remains over the top

DO IT ITALIAN-STYLE

Italian clothing brand Aspesi offers nicely tailored, colourful and all-around beautiful clothing without being overly hip or crazy expensive. (It’s sort of like the Italian version of France’s A.P.C.) Freshen your wardrobe and then look forward to saying, “Oh, this? I picked it up in Rome.” aspesi.com

WINDOW SHOPPING

Take a stroll down the Via dei Coronari, near Piazza Navona, and explore the little shops tucked down this and other cobblestone lanes—from leather goods and gifts to housewares and antiques.

MAKE A GROCERY LIST

Rome has a massive Eataly outpost on the edges of town and it is absolutely worth the schlep through residential areas and across highways. Roam multiple floors to stock up on fancy little things like jars of pesto and Parmesan butter, superb chocolates and bitter Amaro. You can also eat in at one of several restaurants. eataly.net

Sink right in at Hotel Hassler Roma.

Get truly ensconced in luxury & history

ATOP THE SPANISH STEPS

The Hotel Hassler Roma, one of the city’s most famous, is traditional without being stuffy. Each uniquely decorated guest room features interesting objets like horse-hair trunks or Venetian blown glass. There’s a playful clamshell bar for drinks under the setting Roman sun, and Michelin-star Imago offers fine dining with a fine view over the city’s rooftops. hotelhasslerroma.com

STEP INTO HIGH DESIGN

Just steps from elegant Piazza Navona, G-Rough combines sophisticated luxury with cool kid details: patina walls, mirror-tiled bathrooms, mosaic floors and an overall lounge vibe. The approach is “Made in Italy,” and G-Rough pays homage to Italian designs and brands from the 1930s through the 1950s. Robot butlers and lifestyle managers bring the property squarely into the 21 st century. g-rough.com

LEFT AT THE COLOSSEUM

Mercure Rome Colosseum Centre is an unfussy, affordable option in a prime location right between the Colosseum and its attendant ruins, and the charming Monti neighbourhood, a perfect place to poke around small boutiques and grab a big plate of carbonara. There’s also a panoramic terrace complete with roof bar and swimming pool. accorhotels.com

G-Rough’s exposed brand of cool.