CRITICAL STUDY
ART MOVEMENTS of XIX-XX by ANNA & TOMEK
6070 Life AND DESIGN
On the cover: Pop Art Sterling Silver Teddy Bear by Asprey
INDEKS VICTORIAN ART NOUVEAU ARTS& CRAFTS CUBISM ABSTRACTIONISM REBEL MODERNISM AMERICAN KITSCH SWISS INTERNATIONAL POSTMODERNISM LAND ART PSYCHODELIA POP-ART CONTEMPORARY STREET ART DOWN-TO-EARTH MODERN CLASSIC
VICTORIAN
The Victorian era of British art history was the time of Queen Victoria’s reign from 1837 until her death, on 1901. It was a long period of peace, prosperity, refined sensibilities and national self-confidence for Britain. In architecture the common thing was a battle of the styles between gothic and classical ideals. Victorian design is widely viewed as having grand excess of ornament, mixing middle east and Asian influences in furnitures and interior decoration. In 1851 the Great Exhibition, housed in the Crystal Palace, had an enormous impact on the development of art and design throughout the Victorian age and led to the founding of the Victoria and Albert Museum.
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The study of Victorianism is often about Victorian morality, which refers to highly moralistic, straitlaced language and behaviour. Victorian fashion evolving within inventing the sewing machine. Knowing how to lace a corset was necessary to achieve the correct look in Victorian fashion. In 1860 the crinoline domed skirt silhouette had a flattened front and began to show a dramatic leaning toward the garment back. The sleeves in dresses evolving either from wide and puffed to simple and smooth. In the last decade of the Victorian era womens wear was characterised by high collars.
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ART NOUVEAU
Art Nouveau (Modern Style) is an international philosophy and style of art, architecture and arts- especially the decorative arts - that was most popular during 1890 — 1910. It was s reaction to academic art of the 19th century, it was inspired by natural forms and structures, not only in flowers and plants, but also in curved lines. Architects tried to harmonize with the natural environment. Art Nouveau is considered a “total” art style, embracing architecture, graphic art, interior design, and most of the decorative arts including jewellery, silverware, textiles, fabrics, ceramics including tableware, jewellery, cigarette cases, and other utensils and lighting, as well as the fine arts. According to the philosophy of the style, art should be a way of life.
BY TOMEK
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The great modern voice of art nouveau style mixed with a youthful glamour gave a house of fashion - Pucci in his AW 13 collection during Milan Fashion Week. The models wear typical for art nouveau beautiful in details ornamentic clothes with a thigh-high boots combined modern cuts and fabrics with classic sex kitten sensuality. The modern Art Nouveau spirit, created Karen Elson a British model, singer-songwriter and guitaris on her debut disc, The Ghost Who Walks, where spins intriguingly unsettling tales of lost love, dashed hope, romantic betrayal and various crimes of passion witnessed only by the full moon. In a coolly inviting voice, strumming an acoustic guitar, very poetic and decorative even she summons up a dark yet seductive atmosphere.
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ARTS & CRAFTS
The Industrial Revolution changed the Western culture. The growth of the middle classes led to a massive increase in the housing market, to satisfy the demand.The Arts and Crafts style stared as a search for aesthetic design and decoration and a reaction against the styles of machine-production, against the poor quality of design during the Industrial Revolution.The Arts and Crafts Movement was born the nineteenth century in Britain, and spread soon across to the rest of Europe and North America. And as it says in some sources born from a complex seedbed that grew to exppress itself in latter, throught the Edvardian era, to have own influences even today, continuing by some designers. By the end of the nineteenth century, Arts and Crafts had influenced architecture, painting, sculpture, graphics, illustration, book making and photography, domestic design and the decorative arts, woodwork, stained glass, leatherwork, empbroidery, rug making, weaving, jewelry, metalwork and ceramics.
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The Arts and Crafts art movement are connected mainly with one man, William Morris who in 1861 founded his MORRIS & CO, producing beautiful fabric and wallpapers and whos company has a unique position in the field of design and interior decorating for day after. “Have nothing in your house except what you know to be useful or believe to be beautiful” - said. William Morris was an artist, designer, printer, typographer, bookbinder, craftsman, poet, writer and champion of socialist ideals. He believed that nature was the perfect example of God’s design.
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CUBISM
In Cubist artwork, objects are analyzed, broken up and reassembled in an abstracted form—instead of depicting objects from one viewpoint, the artist depicts the subject from a multitude of viewpoints to represent the subject in a greater context. Fans of online game Minecraft are to be able to enter three-dimensional versions of some of the artworks at Tate Britain. The project is designed to stimulate an interest in art for a new generation by immersing themselves in blockwork versions of the images.
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Cubism is an early-20th-century avant-garde art movement pioneered by Georges Braque and Pablo Picasso, joined by Jean Metzinger, Henri Le Fauconnier, Fernand Léger and Juan Gris that revolutionized European painting and sculpture, and inspired related movements in music, literature and architecture. Cubism has been considered the most influential art movement of the 20th century. The term is broadly used in association with a wide variety of art produced in Paris during the 1910s and extending through the 1920s. Variants such as Futurism and Constructivism developed in other countries. A Dutch artist, van Doesburg led the artistic style movement “De Stijl”, designed a typeface where each character was based upon a square divided into 25 smaller squares, developing long before the Macintosh computer and pixel-based fonts. It has been revived as Architype Van Doesburg. BY ANNA
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ABSTRACTIONISM
Abstract art uses a visual language of shape, form, color and line to create a composition which may exist with a degree of independence from visual references in the world. Dutch Piet Mondrian was a pioneer of abstract art, who developed from early landscape pictures to geometric abstract works of a most rigorous kind. He simplified abstract style which he called Neo-Plasticism, restricted to the three primary colours and to a grid of black vertical and horizontal lines on a white ground. His painting belong to most recognisible abstract paintings in the world and became a cult motif for designers for day after.
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Italian-Brazilian designer Paula Cademartori crafts an intricate mosaic from fine leathers in her Naga Piwa pattern handbag. Prismatic skins are mixed and matched to form an abstract graphic across the front of the classic cut black bag, finished with the designer’s signature bold buckle. The New York-based brand Suno offers gorgeous, vibrantly colored dresses and separates, all while continuing to support the Kenyan textile industry. The sleeveless dress from Suno features a vivid palette of geometric prints against a soft and swingy summer frock.
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REBEL
The hot jazz and swing music that accompanied the Harlem Renaissance of the 1920s established distinctive styles among its followers. Jazzmen and fans favoured an exaggerated dressed-up look: the word “zoot� was a term of approval that by the late 1930s described the suit that, with extreme padded shoulders, peaked lapes, extra long jacket, and voluminous peg-top trousers with narrow ankles, had become the sartorial badge of young urban African-American and Hispanic hipsters.
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In the latest collection of Sonia Rykiel - a timeless fashion icon,, Julie de Libran who has her debut presents confident combination of rebel, denim and military style. All fun, light and playful while still keeping a respect for the Rykiel fashion household. Fans of Miles Davis would be surprised to see him portrayed in GAP advertising campaign for khaki pants, a lightweight smart/casual trousers that, like chinos, originally derived from military wear (1960s). The American music and film made jeans fashionable among teenagers, especially art students. In Britain, Lee Cooper and Levi’s had been manufacturing jeans as casual rather utilitarian wear since 1946. Artist John Minton in turned-up jeans, striped shirt and t-shirt.
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MODERNISM
Modernism was mainly philosophical movement along with cultural trends and changes, far-reaching transformations in Western society in the late XIX and early XX centuries. We would say that modernism left all the old, traditional world behind, make it outdated. Now is everything about the innovations: “Make it new!” Modern artists experimented with new ways of seeing and with fresh ideas about the nature of materials and functions of art. However not everyone was happy and convinced with a new “world order”. When Picasso has painted his Les Demoiselles d’Avignon (1907), re-invented the art of painting, many of his friends and colleagues, even fellow painters Henri Matisse and Georges Braque, were upset when they saw this painting.
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Egon Schiele, Amadeo Modigliani gave a new vision and new look for nude and human body. They showed it doesn’t have to be perfect. What was important in first was an innovation. Marcel Duchamp was shocked completely an audience showing his pisuar (Fountain) in 1917. Progressive wave of modernism breaking slowly the social norms and people beliefs, affirms the power of human beings to create, improve and reshape their environment with the aid of practical experimentation, scientific knowledge, or technology.
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AMERICAN KITSCH
Within urban dictionary the concept of the kitsch as an art movement, lifestyle, or literature and film genre, kitsch is pleasingly distasteful. It’s melodramatic, nostalgic very often, overdone, gaudy and tacky or sentimental and folksy. The true essence of American Kitsch represents american houses and all interior design of 50s. Iddylic, rosy, with perfectly cut lawn, with perfect housewife, perfect family eating perfect meal ( but boring ) with perfect neighbourhood either - a classic “barbie house”. The modern artists loving kitsch convention are Jeff Koons, David La Chappelee.
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Prada in her S/S 2012 collection used a her beloved pastels and cars elements as a main motifs to create a new look of 50s. Miuccia just knew how to incorporate a kitsch elements and 50s vibe along with her own inspiring ideas. In result we would seen a high heels decked out with cadilac parts like spoilers, wings, lights, chrome accents, and flames. The models has a style of a young, independent rock&roll lady behind the wheel, or running for a date with his hit boyfriend. Entirety was so vintage, but modern at the same time. Very familiar but definitely fresh and inspiring enough to felt the spirit of the american dream again.
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SWISS INTERNATIONAL
The International Typographic Style, also known as the Swiss Style, is a graphic design style developed in Switzerland in the 1950s that emphasizes cleanliness, readability and objectivity. Hallmarks of the style are asymmetric layouts, use of a grid, sans-serif typefaces like Akzidenz Grotesk, and flush left, ragged right text. The style is also associated with a preference for photography in place of illustrations or drawings. Many of the early International Typographic Style works featured typography as a primary design element in addition to its use in text, and it is for this that the style is named.
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Each design done with International Typographic Style in mind begins with a mathematical grid, because a grid is the “most legible and harmonious means for structuring information.” Text is then applied, most often aligned flush left, ragged right. Fonts chosen for the text are sans serif, a type style believed to “express the spirit of a more progressive age” by early designers in the movement. Objective photography is another design element meant to present information clearly, and without any of the persuading influences of propaganda or commercial advertising. Such a strong focus on order and clarity is drawn from early pioneers of the movement believing that design is a “socially useful and important activity... the designers define their roles not as artists but as objective conduites for spreading important information between components of society.”
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POSTMODERNISM
Irony and Pastiche. ‘High’ and ‘low’ culture mixed. Sophistication. Confidence. Chimerical phenomen. That’s the words associated with postmodernism. Roxy Music, A Clockwork Orange, Big Lebovski, Leigh Bowery, Grace Jones - announced their own artifice to cannily uncanny effect.
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Pop video might have been the ideal medium in which postmodernism could realise itself. Its ease with non-narrative performance was way ahead of non-commercial arts; what better way to bombard people with sensational imagery, free of the need to provide meaning or realism? Or to reinforce the status of the semi-fictional, living creation that is Grace Jones through self-reference? The amoral inclusivity of the imagery in ‘Slave to the Rhythm’ reflects the club, pop art and fashion cultures she came up through in New York.
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LAND ART
The Surrounded Islands were a project by Christo and Jeanne-Claude in Miami from 1980-1983. Before spreading these huge sheets of hot pink fabric over the surrounding waters of islands in Biscayne Bay, the artists consulting with numerous scientists to make sure they would not be harming wildlife. They also organized a huge cleanup effort on each island before laying out this piece of art. The people of Miami loved the splash of color around their bay and in the end, this art project benefited the natural environment.Â
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The true pioneer of the land artmovement, or called also an Earth art was American artist, RobertSmithson. A new wave of art was an artistic protest against the artificiality, plastic aesthetics and commercialization of art at the end of the 1960s in America. In this art movement a landscape and the work of art are linked together. Land art describe an art form that is created in nature, using natural materials such as soil, rock,boulders, stones, organic media -logs, branches, leaves, and water with introduced materials such as concrete, metal, asphalt, or mineral pigments. The works frequently exist in the open, located well away from civilization. Many of the first works, created inthe deserts of Nevada, New Mexico,Utah or Arizona were ephemeral innature and now only exist as video recordings or photographic documents. “Spiral Jetty� it was built entirely from mud, salt crystals, basalt rocks,earth and water on the north-eastern shore of the Great Salt Lake in Utah. The forms has near 1,500-foot-long (460 m) BY ANNA
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PSYCHODELIA
Psychodelic and hippie art movements brounght the expantion and development for different art/cultural waves like: skatebording and surfing. The great creative years in the evolution of surfing, was early 70s, the era of longboards, different surfstyle sand technique. 70s radically changed the world’s perspective on what it meant to be a surfer, to push surfing into a new arena. One of the the cult precursor of psychodelic art was Rick Griffin– surfer, cartoonist, poster artist, legend. His own surf style became iconic.
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Psychodelic wave spread out wide in arts, fashion and music in popular culture for day after. At just thirteen, in the shot from 1 December 1971 Michael Jackson, had signing his album wearing fashionable groovy fashion. The pop star demonstrated his adeptness at mixing patterns, pairing a Missoni-style shirt with a pair of kaleidoscopic prints.
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POP-ART
The British maker of fine jewelry and luxury goods since 1781, Asprey, puts forth their hallmark teddy bear bank in hand-painted floral enamel exclusively for Moda Operandi. Expertly designed by Julian Cross and handcrafted from sterling silver in one of Asprey’s centuries-old New Bond Street workshops, this treasure will be a prized family heirloom for many generations to come.
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Bjarne Melgaard is, Norvegian-born, New York-based artist famous from his political uncorrect, sometimes full of violence and sexually explicit overtones colorful expresionist paintings. On the beginning of 2014 Melgaard has been spotted as a probably one of the most controversial artists of the year with his copy and the latest version of the pop-art erotic chair of Allen Jones from 1996. To make own piece more shocking and scandalic, apart from the forniphilia itself and all elements of latex fetishism, which turn women into items of human furniture, Melgaard presented his chair with Roman Abramovich’s girlfriend Dasha Zhukova sitting on, pissing off a lot of people today again. His work was called by critics a �rasist chair�.
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CONTEMPORARY
What is exactly a definition of a Contemporary Art? Contemporary means “art that has been and continues to be created during our lifetimes.� The movement has his beginning after 1945, when the critics and art experts used the term for the first time. Also in this time that definition has found in common use by most museums defining their collections of contemporary artworks. However the 60s brought up the bloom of the contemporary art. The Conteporary art evoluate in different directions, through conceptualism, performance, video art, land art, graffiti art, neo-pop, pop-art or op-art. The surrealist Francis Bacon (1909-92), the Pop cartoon-style painter Roy Lichtenstein (1923-97), the Pop artist and screenprinter Andy Warhol (1928-87) are the leading painters from that time, however working in completely different styles.
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The great modern voice of contemporary art are works of Haas Brothers. Twins Nikolai and Simon, , born in L.A, grew up in Austin Texas, with a opera singer mother, actor brother and a sculptor father, learning from an early age how to play music, write, sing and paint. The Haas brothers’ industrial studio in downtown Los Angeles is half science lab, half art studio. There they experiment the use of materials ranging from brass, bronze, porcelain. Brothers explore aesthetic and formal themes related to nature, science fiction, sexuality, psychedelia and color theory, doing mostly their fashionable chairs and vases
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STREET ART
The smart street art visions are kind of colorful butterfly coming suddenly from nowhere in grey urban reality. Bringing completely different perception, changing point of view of the objects, changing point of view of an audience too, and all those which have a chance to see it urban spaces. There is no change to that kind of image doesn’t makes you smile or positively surprise even for a while.
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The new look of street art gave a New Your artist Bradley Theodore, who paint at L’Asso in New York’s Lower East Side very fashioable but grotesque mural. The image is very simple in his shapes and style however there is no doubt that who is illustrated on. Any serious fashion fan would n’t missed colorful profiles of Vogue magazine editor Anna Wintour with a her bob haircut and literally facing off at legendary Chanel and Fendi fashion designer-photographer Karl Lagerfeld with the iconic white hair and ponytail. “The skullfaced couple” was spotted with a heart symbol between them., to give all more playful character.
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DOWN-TO-EARTH
The Down-To-Earth wave in design and art of living in general is definitely kind of movement in opposite to the technology and human expantion in general. For centuries, travelers have streamed into Hakone, in Japan, to bathe in the bubbling hot springs at traditional ryokans. Kai Hakone, a new high-design hotel and spa on the banks of the Sugumo river, offers a luxuriously modern take on this relaxing tradition.
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Vivienne Westwood has been spotted with a chestnut collar on her Spring-Summer 15 Red Label fashion show. Also the fashion designer, has declared very radical belief that people who can’t afford to buy organic food should “eat less”. The millionaire designer made the comments as she delivered a petition protesting about genetically modified food. “We need to change to a green economy and a green world and that is easy to do. The alternative is hell,” she said. Very beautiful down-to-earth trend are rustic weddings usually include rural venues and country style decor.
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MODERN CLASSIC
One of the men’s icon of modern classic style is Lapo Elkaan, New York born, member of the famous italian Agnelli family and former Fiat marketing manager. The Telegraph described Elkaan as modern dandy who looks comfortable in his clothes; himself says: “I hate when a man look perfect. Human beings are never perfect on the inside, so they must never be perfect on the outside. To me imperfection is never a mistake - its a sign of humanity. You must break the codes, break the perfection.” An amazing sample of modern classic vehicle is the Equus Bass 770, communicates old world design in a variety of ways. Is an unashamed impersonator that mixes the old world and the new: DNA from a 1967 Mustang Fastback, a 1968 and a 2013 Camaro, plus a ’71 Plymouth Satellite. Result? a muscle sport car with a taste for life’s little luxuries.
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Donatella Versace presents in her S/S15 show a vision of modern ‘well organised’ woman. Models on her show has been spotted holding stylish organiser-bags, in typical for Vercace vibrant leather colours and gold details. Elie Saab’s style is a unique fusion of western and eastern culture, uses noble materials such as taffeta, organza, noble and satin paired with more fluid and light fabrics. Designer faumous with his well tailored very feminine silhouettes since decades, in his S/S 15 ready to wear collection recall about himself as absolutely master of women’s modern classic fashion. One of typographic guru of modern classic is definitely Denis Masharow, born in Moscow (1973), an author of the Forum Font, with might be perfect classic proportion of signs. The font used 1stdibs (https://www.1stdibs.com) the world’s leading marketplace for the most beuatiful things on earth. BY ANNA
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Sources:
BOOKS: Fiona Baker, 2003. C20th Furniture. Edition. Carlton Publishing Group Cally Blackman, 2009. One Hundred Years of Menswear. Edition. Laurence King Publishing. David Bindman, 2008. The History of British Art: 1870-Now. v.3.Edition Tate Publishing PRESS: Thursday 20, November 2014, Evening Standard, “Cubist Masterpieces” Winter 2014/2015, La Vida Magazine, “The Allure of SPREZ ZA TURA” PLACES: Victoria and Albert Museum, William Morris: wallpapers ONLINE SOURCES: http://www.artyfactory.com/art_appreciation/graphic_designers/william_morris.html http://thequietus.com/articles/07498-postmodernism http://www.artspace.com/bjarne_melgaard http://modaoperandi.com/asprey-gg14/pop-art-teddy-bear-bank http://www.bradleytheodore.com http://www.streetartutopia.com http://thequietus.com/articles/07498-postmodernism http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/2014/11/20/tate-museum-minecraft_n_6191250.html?1416489124= http://luc.devroye.org/fonts-30202.html http://culturedart.blogspot.co.uk/2010/11/surrounded-islands.html http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=kitsch http://www.fashioneditorials.com/prada-ss-2012-collection/ http://www.gizmag.com/equus-bass-770-muscle-car/29175/ http://designlimitededition.com/haas-brothers-two-of-a-kind/ http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2015/ready-to-wear/sonia-rykiel http://www.instyle.com/instyle/package/general/photos/0,,20396039_20392415_20792605,00.html http://www.coolplaces.co.uk/