HUNTING KNIVES Getting the edge on your hunt

Hunting Knives

by PHILLIP HAYES

MY VERY first knife used exclusively for hunting was a Buck 476. It came with a hard sheath, probably plastic, and it had a spear point, which made it less than ideal for skinning. However, I recall that I bought it specifically to administer the coup de grâce should a downed animal not have expired by the time we got to it.

As a young professional hunter this happened with several clients I was guiding, and instead of firing a shot at close range with resulting damage to the hide,

A pe rs on a l c ho ic e

I decided on a knife that could be slipped inbetween the cervical vertebrae as close as possible to the head. This meant there was only a small (additional) hole in the skin which the taxidermy had to fix when mounting the skin.

On smaller animals this worked well, but on bigger animals it was a different proposition altogether, as I soon learned. Being young and, well, stupid, I tried this method on an oryx but once, nearly loosing an eye in the process and sporting a bruised forehead for the next week or two.

I soon learned that even a blesbuck is extremely strong, and I had to bring all my power to bear to hold one down and use the knife to sever the spinal cord. On about my third attempt, a blesbuck ram snapped its head backwards

and the tip of the blade on my Buck knife broke off. The Buck got relegated to my box holding sharpening tools and was almost permanently used by the skinners. During this time the sheath went missing.

For my own use I ‘upgraded’ to something else, but it could not have been much of a knife as I cannot remember what I bought. Later, during a visit to Denmark I bought a few Morakniv knives, probably what is now called the Companion. These knives, made in Sweden, had reasonable quality blades, plastic handles and an ugly but practical plastic sheath. They worked so well that they became my team’s go-to skinning knives. One found a permanent place in my own kit.

These knives stood up to serious abuse while remarkably retaining a working cutting edge. Sharpening was sometimes done (out of necessity) on a cement floor, yet we got the job done.

Today the Morakniv knives still present good quality at a very reasonable price and even the cheapest model (between R300 and R400) will probably outlast most other knives, even with hard use. Also, I never worried about abusing these knives, something I’d never do with a custom made knife.

Initially I did not like the curved blade shape and the so-called Scandinavian bevel or edge, but I could not argue with the practicality of the shape and edge. These blades simply seemed to be up to almost every task I could conjure up for them. The sharp tip even made them useful during caping.

The well-known Helle knives are similar in design and edge, made of more durable material and work just as well, but come at a price. However they make great hunting knives.

Swedish company EKA, (established in 1882) makes a swingblade that is about the most practical hunting knife you can buy, the EKA G3. This knife has an ergonomically-designed handle that gives the user an optimal grip and has a great feel. A quick and easy change between the conically ground knife blade and the belly opener is achieved by holding down a locking button.

The blade and stomach opener are made of well-known Swedish steel,

Burger Magnum 20th Anniversary hunting knife.

Cusom Burger knife, note similarities with the Magnum knife.

CRKT Minimalist, a very small knife capable of big tasks.

hardened to 57-59 HRC, which gives a very sharp and durable finish. The G3 knife also has a loop for mounting a wrist strap as a back-up carry method or to use when working. Orange or neon green handles are available, making it hard not to spot the knife should it fall in grass or a bush. The concave belly opener, with its long sweeping cutting edge, is one of the best designs for the task (see photo) as I’ve found traditional belly openers to be mostly useless d the cutting edge being too small. knife comes with a Cordura sheath f with a belt clip for vertical carry. B length is 100mm for traditional b and 80mm for the belly ripper, and the knife weighs 134 grams.

Another option I use is the CRKT Minimalist, specifically the Bowie style blade. This is a small neck knife with a nylon sheath. The sheath has a detachable belt loop that can be fitted for horizontal belt carry, the method I prefer. But, carried around the neck the 130mm long knife (weighing only 46 grams) is so light and small you hardly notice it, is within easy reach with both hands, and, most importantly, the blade size and shape and the contours of the handle make for a very efficient cutting tool. I would not use it for skinning all day, but field dressing is easily accomplished. This small, lightweight package and reasonable price (around R500) makes it my first choice when travelling light.

A more expensive and classier choice in a practical blade shape is the Magnum 20th Anniversary hunting knife, made by Fred Burger, if you can lay your hands on one. Another option is an Arno Bernard hunting knife, specifically from their PH series. These knives have a practical shape and edge and functional handles.

Lastly, do not underestimate a good pocket knife as a hunting companion. I’ve seen plenty of hunters use a boring looking folder, even a dirt cheap Okapi, to do the job well. The key is to have a sharp knife on hand, even if it’s a sharp blade on your multi-tool. To ensure a keen edge for the duration of the hunt, a small sharpener in a trouser pocket or a backpack is a must-have. I use a Lansky Blademedic Pocket Sharpener, which is small and light, but able to sharpen most blades in the veld. tional ue to The fitted Blade blade

Small Lansky sharpener for field use.

Taking care of your blade

The best way to take care of your blade is to keep it rust free and razor sharp. Sharpening is not an art as some think and there are various sharpening systems available that works extremely well. Two come to mind. The Lansky controlled angle sharpening system which normally has several stones i n c l u d e d ( m os tl y s mo ot h, medium, course) and fixed angle for the edge. This method takes a bit of time and with patience blades can become razor sharp. It is also a good system if you have a piece where you do not want to touch the blade with a stone on any part but the cutting edge while sharpening.

The Warthog blade sharpener system is another very convenient kit that can return a keen edge to a dull blade in a minute or two. It is not as versatile as the Lansky and a bit bulky to carry with you, but if you have it in camp what it lacks is made up in speed. I use mine on a weekly basis on almost all the knives I use.

Not abusing a blade and a good sharpening system will go a long way to ensure longevity of the blade as it negates the use of course stones, which eats away steel much faster.

To ensure the steel does not rust I apply a very thin layer of oil after sharpening and wipe it with a clean cloth. This is not needed as frequently on stainless steel as on, say, carbon steel, but remember this, stainless steel can also rust. Any quality oil will do the job, but use it sparingly, and if you often use your knife to prepare food, make sure that as much as possible of the oil is wiped off, or rinsed off with hot water, so that you do not ingest it.

When using a knife for skinning it is important to clean it properly after use as blood, skin and meat will get into all the openings, especially so with folders, and become a health hazard that can smell bad. I normally keep a nail brush in my kit for cleaning knives after skinning. This helps to clean out the hard-to-reach areas.

Lastly, a dull blade is more dangerous than a sharp one. With a sharp blade less force is needed to cut, and using excessive force with a blade in your hand is a recipe to poke a knife into your hand, limb or even an eye.